Building a frame house with your own hands. How to build a dream house: do-it-yourself frame house

The situation when on empty plot of land in just a few months, a big beautiful house grows up, probably familiar to many of us. No, it’s not about the financial capabilities of the owner of the building, but about the technology used. Using this technology, it is possible not only to significantly reduce construction time, but also to reduce the costs of purchasing materials and ordering special equipment.

On the wooden housing construction market today, tens of thousands of proposals are available from developer companies that specialize in the construction frame houses using Canadian, Finnish and SIP technologies. Each of them guarantees high-quality turnkey work, a European level of service and an individual approach to each client. But is it possible to build, for example, a one-story frame house with your own hands? Answer: yes, it is possible! To do this, you will need a project and our step-by-step instructions for a general understanding of the construction process.

Project preparation

Design is the most important link in the investment process associated with construction frame house. Through the implementation of this task, many technological, engineering, structural and architectural solutions are solved, which together determine the effectiveness of investments. Therefore, it is so important to entrust this part of the work to specialists and use the services of designers who will prepare a project for you for a fee.

What is usually included in a project? Typically, a frame house project includes two parts. This is the visual component and design of the building. The first part is mainly devoted to the visual display of the house and its facades from several sides, floor plans indicating rooms, placement of window and doorways. The second part is a detailed design of the foundation and rafter system, roofing, drawings of walls, floor beams and ceilings. It also includes an estimate for the amount of materials, a design of all components in the structure, wall and floor cladding.

By having a detailed design, you can avoid the problems of including ineffective square footage, lots of trimming, and wasted money. Of course, you can create a frame house project with your own hands. But for this you will need, at a minimum, to study special literature on the design and construction of “frameworks”. And this takes time, a lot of effort and possible mistakes!

In our opinion, the importance of design cannot be overestimated. By saving on this part of the work, you risk incurring large costs. After all, an unsuccessful or incorrect project is not only a house that is far from ideal, but also a wasted investment!

Calculation and ordering of materials

As a rule, the calculation of building materials is the responsibility of the designer. But preliminary calculations can be done independently. If the drawings are already ready for a frame house (beam flooring, frame), then calculating the volume of materials is quite simple. For example, based on the drawings, you can find out how many meters of strapping and frame supports are required.

In the absence of special drawings, they proceed from the area of ​​the lower and upper floors, as well as the number of linear meters of walls. To determine the number of frame supports, the linear meters of walls are divided by 0.6. For strapping, the volume of material is calculated by multiplying the linear meters by 3. The same is done with the number of beams in meters: for this, the area of ​​the lower and upper floors is divided by 0.6 and added to the length of the strapping beams. However, it is recommended to check these indicators with the designer. Then the calculation will be more accurate.

Foundation structure: MZFL and pile-screw

Lightness of construction is one of the main differences between a frame house and a classic brick one, which affects the choice of foundation. The weight of the “framework” usually does not exceed 20 tons, this makes it possible to reduce the cost of the structure, not to deepen the foundation and not make it massive. Most often this is MZFL (shallow strip foundation) for frame-panel houses or a pile-screw foundation for SIP houses designed according to.

1. A strip foundation is a concrete strip that runs under all the load-bearing walls of the house, both external and internal. Strengthening – reinforcement cage. This is the preferred option for a frame house, due to which the customer can afford to build a basement or ground floor. The secret of the popularity of MZLF also lies in the ease of construction with your own hands and the affordability of the price.

The main stages of installing a strip foundation include:

• Preparing the soil, followed by removing the fertile layer and leveling the surface;
• Creation of a sand-crushed stone cushion and installation of mortgages for laying communications;
• Installation of formwork and waterproofing, production of reinforcement frame;
• Pouring concrete mixture;
• Dismantling the formwork after the concrete has hardened and acquired strength.

A prerequisite for MZLF is the absence high level groundwater. Otherwise, the creation of an effective drainage system will be required.

2. costs the customer much less than MZLF, which is explained by the use of a fundamentally different approach, less expensive materials and simplified installation technology. You can get a high-quality and durable foundation for a frame house with your own hands in just one day, and it can be used immediately after installation.

Installation of a pile-screw foundation begins with a soil survey to indicate the depth of the load-bearing words and determine the required length and number of screw piles. The project is being finalized taking into account the characteristics of the soil and the designated length of the piles. Based on this, piles are purchased and delivered to the construction site. Installation of this type of foundation is carried out according to the plan of the pile field, regardless of the time of year.

Its advantage lies not only in the speed of installation, but also in the absence of harm to the landscape due to the absence of sand and crushed stone preparation and earthworks. There are no traces of heavy special equipment, the usual mountains construction waste and dirt. In addition, the use of screw piles contributes to the creation air gap under the house, preventing the appearance of dampness in the room and retaining heat.

Floor installation

Building a floor in a frame house with your own hands is not much different from installing a floor in brick houses and can be wooden or concrete. The choice may be influenced by the type of foundation, financial capabilities and preferences of the developer.

Let's take a closer look at the installation wooden floor with your own hands based on a pile-screw foundation.

The start of work is tying the foundation, which is carried out using timber 150x150 or 150x200, which depends on the distance between the piles and the thickness of the walls. The higher these indicators, the thicker the material should be. This is necessary to avoid cases of sagging, distribute the load, give the foundation rigidity and reliability for next stage floor arrangement.

Schematically, the process of tying the foundation with your own hands can be divided into several stages:

1. Laying out timber around the perimeter, precise marking of walls, lining roofing felt under the trim;
2. Marking the joining points of the beams, taking into account the location of the piles;
3. Joining timber with an overlap of up to 30 cm using “locks” cut from the end;
4. Joining corners using a similar principle;
5. Preparing holes and fastening the timber to the foundation using studs and bolts, the protruding parts of which are recessed. At the joints, nails of suitable sizes are additionally used.

At the final stage, tying is carried out under internal walls. In this case, the fastening of the beam goes to the already installed external one. Metal corners are additionally used for strengthening.

Construction of the floor frame

Logs are installed on top of the trim. For this, timber 100x150(200) or sewn boards 50x150(200) are used. This is a simple part of assembling a frame house with your own hands, but it requires observing certain points. This:

• Maintaining the distance between the logs taking into account the size of the insulation. For example, if the developer uses mineral wool 100x60, for its dense placement it will be necessary to reduce the distance to 58 cm, i.e. several centimeters less than the width of the material itself;

• Installation of logs is carried out using fastening angles and nails. They do not go level with the harness, but are mounted on “ Matchbox» less (5 cm). This is necessary so that in the future another board can be placed here and all the gaps around the perimeter will be closed;

A mandatory element is also a 50x150 (200) board between the joists, which is nailed in order to increase the rigidity of the structure.

Insulation and waterproofing of the floor

Perpendicular to the joists, a 100/150x25 board is attached joint to joint using self-tapping screws. Next, a waterproofing membrane is placed, and on top of it, between the joists, is insulation, up to 20 cm thick. All insulation joints must be overlapped.

The next layer is a vapor barrier, followed by an OSB board or tightly sewn boards (at the developer’s choice). Installation of vapor barrier, as well as waterproofing, is carried out with an overlap to prevent moisture from entering the insulation.

Wall construction

To install the walls of a frame house with your own hands, nails and mounting angles are used in the same way. It is also possible to use pins. For the frame of the walls, a 50x150/200 board is used, which is selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation and the wall itself.

Ideally, the walls are assembled already finished floor. The main thing is that the dimensions are accurate, otherwise the walls risk being longer or shorter than the floor. In order for you to understand what we are talking about, pay attention to what the wall of a frame house looks like in section.

First of all, you need to decide on the ceiling height of the future frame house. Let's assume that the rough ceiling will be 280 cm high. This means that the height of the vertical posts will be 265 cm (10 cm from the top frame of the walls and 5 cm from the floor level are not taken into account).

A distance of 60 cm is maintained between the posts. For cotton-based insulation, this figure can be reduced to 58 cm to ensure tighter contact. To simplify the process, the top and bottom boards of the wall are laid out on the floor, after which markings are applied where the vertical posts will be fastened with nails.

If the length of the wall exceeds that of the board, the wall is assembled in parts. This is also done in cases where the developer works alone, since the entire assembled wall has considerable weight. Studs are used for connection.

The next step is to install jumpers between the racks while preserving space for door and window openings. As a rule, these are two units per gap with the expectation that they will be used as an OSB board joint.

Important! In order not to make a mistake in calculations and make a wall required thickness, in the process of assembling the wall, you should take into account the thickness of the board used.

The final stage is the assembly of all the walls of the frame house with subsequent installation. They start by putting up one wall, which is strengthened with temporary supports. It is important to follow here vertical angles, for which they use a plumb line or a long level. It is desirable, of course, that this be a plumb line, since the board cannot be perfectly flat.

All other walls rise one by one. Nails and studs are used for installation. Prefabricated walls (from several parts) are given Special attention, making sure that the length of the bottom and top are the same. Instead of timber, the corners are filled with insulation. To strengthen the walls, use any thin board that is nailed diagonally. A cord that is pulled between two corners will help ensure that the walls are evenly positioned.

Upper harness

To strengthen the structure and securely adhere the corners, use the same board as for the walls, plus 120 mm nails. This will distribute the load between all parts frame walls. The strapping is carried out around the entire perimeter, including over the internal load-bearing walls. Here it is important to cover all the joints, leaving an overlap of 25 cm. For corners, the amount of overlap will be equal to the thickness of the walls.

Interior partitions

Installation interior partitions is similar to the device external walls with the caveat that the requirements for them regarding insulation and thickness itself are more lenient. Therefore, they are installed in such a way that sound insulation is maintained.

The best assistant in this regard is insulation. Waterproofing and vapor barrier materials can be used as desired.

Do-it-yourself roofing installation for a frame house

Installation is in many ways similar to roof construction in other houses, but still surpasses them in ease of installation, which is explained by simplified fastening to the walls. This is a very important part of the work, especially when it comes to building a two-story frame house, but if you simple layout houses and a “one-story” building, then you can easily cope with it alone and do everything with your own hands.

We will not delve into the description of all stages of roof installation here, since this is a very broad topic that requires a separate article, but we suggest that you familiarize yourself with step by step instructions construction of a frame house, which describes in detail all stages of construction, including the arrangement of the roof.

Download the directory “Individual house “Platform”. Design and construction"

Do-it-yourself insulation of a frame house

One of the final stages of construction. Everything is insulated, including walls, floors and ceilings. When choosing insulation for the walls of a frame house with your own hands, they proceed from the characteristics of the material and the characteristics of the wood itself, with which the insulation will combine well.

Key points on insulation:

• On top of the OSB boards they stretch a special waterproofing membrane. The side of application to the sheet is usually indicated in the instructions;
• The insulation is installed from the inside of the building, between the studs. The number of layers depends on the thickness of the wall and the requirements put forward for insulating a frame house with your own hands. To prevent the penetration of cold, an inlet is used;
• Floor insulation is carried out according to a similar scheme;
• Insulation of the ceiling is preceded by attaching a vapor barrier film to ceiling beams and their filing at the bottom with a board. It is recommended to start work from the attic;
• A vapor barrier film is placed on top of the insulation to create protection from moisture from the inside.

If necessary, sheathing in the form of OSB sheets can be applied over the film, after which the final finishing begins.

This concludes our step-by-step instructions for building a frame house. The Southern House company is ready to assist you in the construction of a frame house. This is for you: individual design, turnkey construction, installation of a terrace or canopy, laying any foundation, facade finishing, electric installation work and installation of a drainage system.

If you have any questions related to receiving the project, the possibility of making adjustments to it, calculating the cost of the project and building a house, you can contact our company managers at the indicated telephone numbers. You can also leave a request by filling out a special form on our official website, after which our specialist will contact you to clarify the details.

In these houses, the supporting base is wooden frame, which is assembled from beams, crossbars, racks and frames. The frame carries the weight of the roof, ceilings and walls.

When constructing a frame house, special attention should be paid; when choosing lumber for the frame, the forest must be dry, geometrically even and free from fungi and pests.

According to labor costs and expenses building materials frame houses are one of the most economical structures.

Another advantage of such a house is the possibility of building it yourself. All construction work (roof installation, installation of door and window blocks, cutting sheet materials, cutting beams and boards, laying a light foundation) does not require special professional construction qualifications. Frame houses do not include heavy elements that require the use of lifting equipment for installation. This article will discuss how to build a frame house yourself.

Compared to houses made of beams and logs, frame houses have a number of operational advantages. Such houses are warmer; they do not have grooves between the logs that require insulation. A frame house will not cause precipitation. This makes construction and further operation easier. A frame house is much less affected by grinders that settle in massive beams and logs. When heated, such a house will warm up faster and has less humidity. All these advantages attract developers to build a frame house.

Types of frame houses

Scheme of the pediment of a frame house.

Depending on the design of the walls, there are 2 types of frame houses: frame-fill and frame-panel. IN frame-panel houses the walls are separate and completely finished panels, which are manufactured in advance and installed on the construction site. Wall assembly is usually carried out somewhere warm in the fall or winter.

Manufactured with high precision, based on a template, with careful laying of windproofing materials and insulation, neat internal and external cladding, they allow you to very quickly assemble a house with high quality construction. The size of the shields is chosen according to the length, which is equal to the height of the wall. The required width is selected depending on the size of the existing sheathing material.

Frame-and-fill houses have walls that are assembled on construction site from start to finish. The frame racks are covered with internal cladding and a vapor barrier layer is laid (you can use glassine, plastic film). The interior space of the wall is filled with heat-insulating material.

In such structures, bulk insulation is usually used: perlite sand, peat, sawdust. During the extension of the outer skin, insulation is laid. Bulk insulation is compacted tightly to avoid settlement and voids.

The type of walls that are chosen for the house determines the design of the frame. Wall panels themselves cannot bear the load. Frame-and-fill houses require the creation of a more durable frame.

Return to contents

How to build a frame house?

Before starting the construction of a frame house, a project is drawn up. According to the project, all calculations are made necessary materials. The technology for creating a frame house includes several stages.

Diagram of a country frame house.

Tools and materials needed to create a frame house:

1. Small and large hammer.
2. Electric planer.
3. Chisels of various sizes.
4. Large and medium nail puller.
5. Drill with a set of drills.
6. Circular Saw.
7. Electric jigsaw.
8. Construction level and plumb line.
9. Marker and pencil.
10. Roulette.
11. Flathead and Phillips screwdriver.
12. Brushes of different sizes.
13. Scaffolding.
14. Ladder.
15. Ruberoid for waterproofing.
16. Asbestos pipes.
17. Reinforcement of various sections.
18. Concrete for pouring the foundation.
19. Boards of various sections and slabs.
20. Polystyrene foam or mineral wool for insulation.
21. Lining or siding for exterior finishing.
22. Plasterboard for interior decoration.
23. Protective film.
24. Roofing covering.
25. Materials for connecting communications: pipes, wires, etc.
26. Nails, metal staples, bolts.
27. Antiseptic coating.

Return to contents

Creating a foundation

Wall construction diagram.

For construction quality home a good foundation is needed. To extend its durability, you must not forget to provide waterproofing.

Since the weight of a frame house is small, most often a foundation is created for it from asbestos pipes. The location of support points is marked along the perimeter of the future building. It is necessary to ensure that the racks are evenly positioned.

In the marked places, holes are dug with a diameter of 200 mm and a depth of 1 m. The pipe is inserted into the hole, its verticality is verified, and then the soil is carefully compacted.

After this, the reinforcement is laid and the stand is filled with concrete. The same procedure is performed with each pillar. After pouring, you need to give the pillars a few days so that they can properly strengthen.

Return to contents

The work of creating a frame house begins with laying the bottom frame on the foundation. It can be made from round timber, hewn for 2 edges. It would be even better to use timber with a section of 120x120 mm (it is more convenient to work with). If there is no suitable timber and logs, the lower and upper frames (and other frame elements) can be made from 40x120 mm boards.

Bottom trim diagram.

Wood for the lower frame, which works in the most unfavorable conditions, is treated with an antiseptic. This will protect the wood from rotting, and therefore extend the life of the structure. The simplest treatment method is impregnation with a 10% aqueous solution of iron or copper sulfate. This impregnation does not clog pores - the wood will be able to breathe. Novice builders often make the mistake of soaking the joists and lower beams with waste machine oil and painting over oil paint. This leads to wood rotting and the formation of house fungus. This happens because the oil closes the pores and prevents moisture from evaporating.

If the lower frame is laid on a solid strip foundation, then it is necessary to lay a dry, strong board 50 mm thick, impregnated with hot bitumen, between the beam and it. If a columnar foundation is being built, then a piece of the same board, wrapped in 2 layers of roofing material, is laid between the pillar and the beam.

The beams are connected to each other at the corners of the half-tree. At least at 4 points the harness must be fastened to the foundation using embedded metal anchors. It is necessary to strictly control horizontality using a building level.

Return to contents

First floor covering

Having installed the bottom frame on the foundation, you can begin laying the joists on which the floors will be laid. Typically, logs are made from boards 100-120 mm wide and 40-50 mm thick. With a wall module of 1.2 m, they are installed in increments of 0.6 m. The logs must be installed on the edge. They should rest on columns made of scrap steel or asbestos-cement pipes. After installation, you need to place bars, pre-wrapped with roofing felt, under the logs.

Return to contents

Installation of vertical racks

Corner post mounting diagram.

Vertical posts are installed at a distance of 0.6 m from each other. Thus, every 3 racks create a module of 1.2 m. The module is often selected depending on the width of the existing windows.

The piping is broken down based on the value of this indicator. Corner drains make them more powerful. The material used is hewn logs, timber or two boards connected with nails.

Intermediate posts are made from boards 40-50 mm thick. Above door block, horizontal crossbars made of the same boards are placed above and below the window block. The window sill transom must be supported by a short stand. The beams and logs are fastened with staples, and the posts are sewn to the frame with nails 120 mm long.

The width of the racks is selected depending on the insulation used. For example, using 100 mm thick mineral wool slabs, you will need 100 mm wide racks. There is no point in increasing this size too much, since air voids do not improve thermal insulation, but can lead to slipping and settling of the insulation. Usage bulk insulation excludes such restrictions. The width of the racks is selected according to the size of the available lumber (usually no more than 150 mm).

If internal and external cladding If the walls are made of boards, then it is necessary to make diagonal connections along the racks between the upper and lower trim. They will protect the house from wind loads, skewing and uneven settlement of the foundation. To ensure that the boards do not interfere with filling with insulation, they must be embedded perpendicular to the plane of the racks. If sheet material is used as cladding (asbestos-cement sheet, chipboard, plywood), then it is not necessary to install wind ties. To give the house the necessary rigidity, sheathing sheets are nailed to the frame. After the racks are exposed, they can be mounted top harness. It is made using the same materials and using the same techniques as the bottom one. It is secured to the posts using nails and staples.

A frame house is light and very simple; it can be built in a short time. Such structures are becoming increasingly popular. Buildings are being erected on summer cottages both for seasonal and permanent residence. When constructing buildings using this technology, it is necessary to take into account only one detail - the period of residence. In this article we will give step-by-step instructions for building a frame house with your own hands.

Choosing a foundation

Since frame houses are very light, a particularly powerful foundation is not required here; you can install the following types:

• screw piles;
• columns;
• shallow tape.

Much when laying a foundation depends on the type of soil and the number of storeys of the structure. So, when building a simple one-story house You can completely get by with a columnar one even on capricious soil.

Columnar foundation

1. In order to build a small house for one average family on columnar foundation, for the base you need to purchase about 120–150 columns.
2. Using a regular drill, you need to make holes in the ground with a diameter of 20 cm and a depth of about a meter. The distance between the holes is about 80 cm.
3. Then asbestos cement pipes (columns) are inserted into the holes. The remaining space next to the pipes must be compacted, filled with crushed stone and sand.
4. Through a funnel, a cement solution must be poured into the holes of the posts.

Having installed such a foundation, you don’t even have to wait for the solution to harden to continue working.

Screw pile foundation

You can build a house on screw piles without involving a team of workers. To install piles, on the contrary, it is advisable to use manual labor. This is due to the fact that such work allows the piles to be screwed in strictly to the level without deviations.

When screwing in piles, one basic rule must be remembered: screwing out piles again is strictly prohibited. Even if one of them was installed incorrectly, it is better to simply leave it in the same position than to disturb the compacted soil.

Unscrewing piles is the main mistake of all beginners.

Construction stages

There are two technologies for constructing frame houses: Finnish and Canadian. However, the principles of constructing such structures themselves are the same.

Construction stages:

1. Frames are used to build a house. They can be wooden or steel depending on the wishes of the owner. Today, wooden ones made of timber are most widespread. They are economical, environmentally friendly and easy to install. Steel frames at the same time they cost about a third more. However, they are somewhat lighter in weight, which allows you to save on the foundation. IN steel structures You can safely use steel fasteners. But for wood it is better to choose wooden dowels.
2. First of all, we need to make the floor. To do this, you should put roofing felt on the base of the floor. Next, you need to install a beam around the perimeter, which will serve as the basis for installing the subfloor. The subfloor is made from the most inexpensive material - unedged boards.
3. Before installing the subfloor, you need to make joists and put insulation between them, which will protect against cold and moisture. Before laying, it is better to pre-treat the boards with impregnations against rotting and dampness.
4. When the floor is ready, you need to assemble the walls. They are first mounted on some flat surface, and only then installed. It is advisable to choose an absolutely flat place in order to knock down the frame of each wall, otherwise distortions may occur. On each side of the walls it is necessary to make jibs that will support the racks.
5. When installing walls, you need to take into account the desired ceiling height. It is better if it is within 2.5 meters. This ensures that after decorative finishing it will not become lower than 2.3 meters. Usually low ceilings depress and cause unpleasant feelings.
6. The house is covered with boards.
7. Window installation is of no small importance. According to technology, their size should not exceed 20% of the wall size. When glazing, you can choose any double-glazed windows. If you plan to live in a house all year round, then it is better to choose triple sealed double-glazed windows.

After the frame is assembled and sheathed, and the roof is ready, it is necessary to begin decorative finishing of the structure. The house can be finished with clapboard, siding or sandwich panels. When finishing the roof, care should be taken to ensure that it does not leak. It is better to lay a layer of heat insulation and waterproofing material between the joists. For outer covering this one would be good modern material like metal tiles.

Insulation of the house

Before insulating a house, you need to select materials. Insulation is carried out from the inside and outside. Interior finishing is best done using mineral wool and plasterboard. If desired, you can use vinyl plasterboard inside, which not only retains all the thermal insulation properties of this material, but also has excellent aesthetic characteristics. Thus, the master will simultaneously solve the problem with insulation and make decorative finishing premises.

External insulation is carried out until finishing. Thermal insulation still needs to be done.

1. First they frame the house. A layer of mineral wool is laid between the lathing slats.
2. Polystyrene foam is placed on top of the mineral wool.
3. The gaps between the foam plates and the racks are foamed with ordinary polyurethane foam.
4. Insulation of the outer part of the frame can be done without lathing.

The interior is insulated in almost the same way. It is necessary to lay the material between the pillars of the house, and then additionally cover it with foam plastic.

Features of arranging a vapor barrier for a frame house

Vapor barrier is simply necessary in any room. Especially if this is a residential building in which there is a kitchen, bathroom and other places of high humidity. It has been noted that in such rooms the moisture level can be even higher than in the open air.

Vapor barrier installation is often done incorrectly.

1. The main mistake is using vapor barriers instead of factory ones. homemade materials and polyethylene. Vapor barrier film, despite its similarity to polyethylene, has a special structure. It's multi-layered.
2. Incorrect and poor-quality installation of the vapor barrier. Sometimes during the installation of the membrane, builders can tear it or damage the seams. It also often happens that the membrane does not adhere well to the walls.
3. Installation of a vapor barrier membrane with outside Houses. Windproof layers are usually made on the outside. And the vapor barrier must be installed only from the inside. By the way, during installation you should make sure that the membrane is installed on the right side.

The vapor barrier membrane is mounted on the heat-insulating layer. The fact is that it is the heat insulator that is most often damaged by condensation. Therefore it must be protected. If steam gets inside, then after about a couple of seasons the owner of the house will discover that the insulation has stopped functioning. The culprit here is moisture, which caused the appearance of cracks in this layer. If the defect is not eliminated, it will only get worse. Soon the steam will reach the boards.

Typically, the thickness of the walls of a frame house consists of 70% insulation. If the insulating layer is destroyed, the structure will collapse very quickly.

When installing a vapor barrier, you must remember that the building must “breathe”. It must contain natural movement of air masses.

Installing polyethylene instead of special membranes destroys ventilation processes. This causes the destruction of the house. Dampness, mold and mildew begin to appear in the premises. Forced ventilation is unlikely to save the situation.

No material is as destructive as polyethylene. It completely seals the room. Considering that in modern houses There are also sealed double-glazed windows and double doors; you can imagine what the atmosphere would be like in such a room.

Photos of interesting solutions

Video: self-building a house using frame technology

Currently, in Russia they have gained increasing fame and popularity. Moreover, the choice of technology during construction does not have of great importance. Both technology and technology are used with equal regularity. When building a low-rise frame house, it is quite possible efficient use the most modern building materials and the latest achievements in industries.

The need for the construction of such houses in Lately has grown very much, so many decide to start building a frame house on our own. Because the technology for its construction is not too complicated.

When planning to build a good home for your family, firstly, determine its purpose. You need to clearly know what time of year the family will live in it, all year round or only in the spring-summer season. The method of insulating it will depend on this choice. Initially, a frame house is an elementary simple design, consisting of vertical posts and a certain number of horizontal straps, which must be carefully and efficiently. During the construction process, all detected voids are filled special materials with low thermal conductivity. And then, when facing internal and external walls, different building materials are used.

Based on this, we conclude that suitable type insulation will directly depend on the period of operation of the house and on the weather conditions under which the frame house will be built. Or are used as insulation - these are universal materials.

Work on the foundation

As a rule, a frame house is built no higher than 2 floors. Moreover, it is worth noting that the second floor is mansard type. Therefore, there is no point in building deep foundations for such houses. In the best way for the construction will be prefabricated from reinforced concrete blocks.

When making the final calculation of the number and width of wall sections, you must take into account all possible mechanical loads on the floor of the building. Beams are usually installed in increments of 30 cm to 60 cm. The width of the boards is selected in accordance with finishing material. When covering you need a distance (20-30 cm) due to plasticity of this material and its inability to withstand minor loads. Moreover, if you cover it with chipboard sheets, the distance can be increased to 35-60 cm.

When installing windows () when building a frame house with your own hands, it is necessary to comply with precise building codes. Firstly, the window area should occupy 18% of the total wall area. Secondly, in a house where you plan to live only in the spring and summer, frames with single glazing will be sufficient. When living all year round, use frames with double, or better yet, triple glazing.

The final stage of construction is the construction and installation of the frame. In addition to external beauty, the roof plays the role of distributing significant external loads. Here are the main elements load-bearing roof– rafters and rafter legs, they are divided into hanging and inclined, diagonal connections, ridge girder. At With When building a frame house with your own hands, sooner or later you will think about roofing material. Currently, the construction markets offer a wide range of necessary materials.

Let's summarize: building a frame house with your own hands is not an easy task! The main rule is that when assembling the structure, strictly follow building regulations and established rules. And then your frame house will delight you and your descendants.

Frame construction has been rapidly gaining momentum lately. It has become especially popular among private developers. It is worth noting that in Canada this Government program. In Russia - solving the housing problem on our own. Frame construction makes it possible to build a house in a short time with minimal investment funds.

If we look at it in detail, a frame house is:

• lower and upper trim, fastened vertical posts, which form a frame for the subsequent installation of walls - both internal and external;
• base made of timber attic space, consisting of load-bearing beams and floors;
• lumber rafter system on which the roofing material is mounted - it should not be too heavy;
• depending on the region of construction, the appropriate insulation material between frame elements.

Important! the thickness of the insulator must correspond to the distance between the wall sheathing.

The frame is sheathed on both sides with moisture-resistant material.

You can build a frame house yourself, without any special construction education. You don’t need a specialized tool for this, just study the technology and be patient, performing all the steps in the construction strictly according to the instructions.

House using Canadian technology - pros and cons

The frame structure has many positive aspects, for example:

1. Cost - if converted to square meters, then it is the lowest, which makes this technology popular all over the world.
2. Speed ​​of construction - a team of three people can build a house in just 1 month, provided that the foundation for the building has already been laid. The entire structure will be ready in 2 months - along with the interior decoration.
3. Low heat capacity and thermal conductivity – modern heat insulators help create comfortable conditions for living – both in summer and winter. In addition, the frame design allows you to save thermal energy– it is enough to heat only those rooms that are needed at the moment.
4. Aesthetics - already during the construction process, you can install all the necessary communications in the walls, “brick up” electrical cables and wiring, and install a ventilation system.
5. There is no need to build a buried foundation, since the weight of the frame structure is small.
6. There is no need to give the structure time to shrink. When constructing a frame structure, dry materials are used that will not shrink later.
7. Environmentally friendly - during construction only natural materials are used that comply sanitary standards and safe for humans.
8. Simplicity of finishing inside the building - the walls are sheathed with modern slab materials that do not require plastering, which significantly reduces the time spent on finishing.
9. Resistance to temperature changes - it is worth noting that the frame structure is a kind of thermos that retains heat. Such a structure can be heated periodically.
10. Seismic resistance - this design can withstand vibrations of up to 9 points.
11. Construction can be carried out at any time. Even the foundation can be equipped with a pile-screw foundation.
12. Ease of construction - no heavy equipment is needed for construction, a small construction team is enough.
13. Microclimate – materials for construction are natural, they “breathe”, so a certain microclimate is created in the room.

But if you don’t talk about the disadvantages of frame structures, the picture will be incomplete:

• rapid flammability - in a few minutes the frame structure burns out completely, not even the walls remain;
• danger of mold and mildew - in climatic zones Where there is frequent rain, dampness can appear in any structure. In a house built on a frame
• technology, this indicator is very high, so even during construction it is necessary to accurately calculate the “dew point”;
• low sound insulation is, of course, a significant drawback, but it can be eliminated by installing special soundproofing material in the walls;
• the difficulty of interior decoration is the impossibility of hanging heavy objects on the walls if you do not provide for the embeds in advance.

But if you approach construction with all responsibility, you can eliminate shortcomings, for example, follow safety precautions and treat the structure with various antiseptic impregnations.

Foundation for a frame house

In order for the foundation to be strong and serve for many years, you need to choose the right type of foundation. Things to consider:

1. Type of soil on the site.
2. The height of groundwater.
3. Weight of the building.
4. Seasonality of residence.
5. The region in which it is planned to build a house.
6. Wind and snow loads.

Most often, the following types of foundations are installed under a frame building:

• pile;
• pile-grillage;
• tape shallow.

In Russia, a pile-grillage foundation is most often installed for frame buildings. This is one of the types of prefabricated foundations that do not require large financial investments. If you correctly calculate the load and build the structure, strictly adhering to the technology, it will last for a very long time.

Important! If you doubt the reliability of the design, use TISE technology. The piles have an extended heel, due to which load bearing capacity base increases significantly. In addition, the structure will withstand the forces of soil heaving.

Drilling wells for piles can be done either motorized or manually. At the bottom of each hole it is necessary to arrange a sand cushion, for this:

1. Compact the bottom of the well well, after spilling it with water;
2. Fill in the gravel-sand mixture - 15-20 cm;
3. Sprinkle it with water and compact it;
4. Fill with concrete, approximately 15 cm.

The pillow is ready.

The following can be used as formwork:

• The walls of the well, if the soil is dense and not prone to crumbling. Just before pouring concrete, you need to arrange waterproofing.
• Ruberoid - a pipe of the required diameter is twisted from it, which is fastened with metallized tape. The material is twisted in at least 4 rows.
• Asbestos-cement pipes are a simpler, but more expensive option.
• PVC pipes - can be purchased at any hardware store.

To strengthen the bearing capacity of the foundation, it is necessary to reinforce the piles, for this:

1. Prepare reinforcement with a cross-section of 16 mm for the main frame, and a diameter of 10 mm for the strapping.
2. Cut the warp rods the right size, not forgetting that they must be 80 cm above ground level. This is necessary in order to subsequently tie the grillage reinforcement.
3. Prepare elements for strapping.
4. Construct a triangular structure from the main reinforcement, connecting it with strapping elements at intervals of 40 cm.
5. Lower the finished structure into the shaft strictly vertically.

Everything is ready - you can pour concrete, grade no lower than M250.

Once the concrete has set, the formwork can be installed for the grillage, which can be recessed, raised or suspended. To equip the structure, ready-made plywood panels are used, built directly on site from boards 40 mm thick.

Waterproofing is placed in the formwork and reinforcement is carried out. The longitudinal bars of the frame are connected to the outlets from the piles. The tape needs to be equipped with openings for communications and ventilation system- To do this, it is enough to install pipe sections.

You also need to prepare pins to secure the strapping beam. Elements should be installed with a distance of 30 cm from the corners, then the step is 1-2 meters. It must be remembered that it is the studs that will connect the base of the house to the foundation, so the more often they are installed, the stronger the structure.

Important! No matter how long the wall is, at least two studs are installed for it.

The next step will be pouring concrete. In order for the structure to gain the required strength and not crack, it should be covered with polyethylene or roofing felt. Further work begins in a week, provided that the air temperature is not lower than +20 degrees. At lower temperatures you will have to wait longer. The main condition is that the concrete must gain at least 50% of its strength.

Bottom rail and floor

Wood tends to absorb moisture, and to prevent it from taking it away from the concrete, you need to install high-quality waterproofing. You can apply the same roofing felt or bitumen mastic in two layers, which is more reliable, since roofing felt can become brittle over time. At insulation work it is necessary to take into account the location of groundwater - the closer it is, the more layers need to be developed.

The next step is tying, which is done in the following way:

1. For the beds, prepare boards measuring 150x50 mm; they must be dry and impregnated with sewn-in compounds;
2. The boards are aligned along the outer edge of the base;
3. Drill holes for the studs that should be larger diameter, approximately 2-3 mm;
4. Lay the first row of boards;
5. The second row of material is arranged in such a way that the joint of the boards of the first row falls in the middle of the board of the second;
6. Nail the boards together with nails at 20 cm intervals in a checkerboard pattern.

Advice! For strapping, you can use 150x100 timber, but its cost is much higher, and boards assembled in this way have a greater load-bearing capacity.

We install the harness and logs

The harness is constructed as follows:

• Take boards measuring 150x50, which should be installed on edge with alignment along the outer edge of the base along the perimeter of the building. Nail them with 200 mm nails to the frame, the fastener spacing is 40 cm.
• The logs are mounted from the same board, placed on edge and secured with 90 mm nails; two nails are driven into the end of each board on both sides. The fasteners should be driven in obliquely.
• The first board is installed at a distance of 40 cm from the frame, subsequent elements are installed at the same distance, but it is worth understanding what longer length boards, topics less distance between the lags.

Important! If the logs are very long, then a transverse beam is installed onto which jumpers are nailed so that the structure stands firmly.

Insulation and flooring

As soon as the joist structure is constructed, you can begin arranging the subfloor. It can be built from boards 250 mm thick. To do this, 5x5 cm slats are stuffed onto the logs along the bottom edge, onto which elements of the required length are laid. Nail each piece of board with 4 nails, 2 on each edge.

The rough coating is ready, you can begin insulation. For this purpose, polystyrene foam is used - it is environmentally friendly, cheap and moisture resistant. The thickness of the insulation in this situation should be 15 cm. To do this, lay the first layer of 10 cm. All cracks and gaps must be foamed. The second row is laid in a checkerboard pattern, the material is 5 cm thick.

It’s worth talking about polystyrene foam, which has many advantages:

• easy;
• easy to install - cut with a hacksaw or a stationery knife;
• environmentally friendly;
• inexpensive;
• It has long term services;
• a layer thickness of 15 cm is capable of retaining heat, like an ordinary brick wall.

After this, you can lay the finished floor, on which it will subsequently be mounted. flooring. The floor can be made of plywood 15 mm thick or OSB board 12 mm thick, in 2 layers. It is worth noting that OSB is cheaper, so this material is preferred by many private developers.

The sheets are laid in a checkerboard pattern, and a gap of 3 mm should be left between the sheets to compensate, since the material can change its volume due to changes in humidity.
The plates are fastened with self-tapping screws, 35 mm long, along the seams in 12 cm increments, along the perimeter of the sheet 25 cm in a checkerboard pattern.

Construction of walls

There are two ways to install walls:

Frame-panel option:

1. Assemble the frame of the walls on the floor - you can do it all at once, you can do it in parts;
2. Cover the frame with outside OSB boards or GVL;
3. Raise the elements, level them strictly vertically and secure them.

This assembly principle is used by factories - panels are assembled in workshops according to a specific design, which are then delivered to the construction site and mounted on a finished foundation with strapping. Also, frame-panel technology can be used when building a house structure with your own hands.

Method - balloon:

1. A beam of 100x100 or 150x150 is attached to the bottom trim around the perimeter, depending on the thickness of the thermal insulation, the pitch of each element should be no more than 120 mm - this is the width of the sheathing slab;
2. Install intermediate racks at a distance of 60 cm, that is, in the middle of the main ones, their thickness should not be less than 50 mm;
3. The upper frame is constructed from timber or boards, similar to the lower one;
4. Sheathe the frame of the walls from the outside - pitch of self-tapping screws along the seams: 12-15 cm;
5. Lay insulation, foam all cracks and seams;
6. Cover the frame with inside.

The developer himself decides which method to choose. But this directly depends on how many people work at the construction site. If it is possible to invite several people to help you, at least occasionally, then assembly on the floor is much more reliable and easier.

Installation and section of racks

Corner rack elements - timber 150x150 mm or 100x100 mm. It is worth noting that everything depends on the load, for example, for a one-story building 10 cm is enough, for a two-story building – 15 cm and above.

There are several ways to attach racks:

• on wooden dowels;
• cutting;
• on steel corners.

The method of installation on dowels is old and complicated:

1. You must first prepare dowels from dry wood of the required diameter.
2. Then drill holes diagonally through the bottom trim beam and the stand.
3. Hammer the dowel into the prepared hole and saw off the protruding ends.

It is worth mentioning right away that this method is reliable only if the material is well dried. In the case of raw wood, it dries out, the wooden tenon will also dry out, and the rigidity of the fastening will be lost.

Cutting is made in the lower frame, and you can only choose 50% of the depth of the beam.

The easiest way - steel corners, which are installed on both sides of the racks and screwed with screws, 3-5 pieces on each side of the corner, depending on the load.

Also, when building using Canadian technology, the beams for doors and windows must be double, since the load on these structures is very large and reinforcement is necessary.

Bevels or braces

These elements are necessary if the frame of the house walls is being assembled on site. The slopes can be temporary - on the inside of the walls, if it is intended to cover the frame with any slab material. These elements are needed in order to set the racks in a strictly vertical position and fix them until the sheathing is completed. After this, the cuttings are removed.

When using stacked cladding, for example, lining, you need to install permanent braces. They are installed on each pair of racks, 4 pieces - 2 on top and 2 on bottom. You should not neglect this rule, since during the sheathing process the racks may “float” and the geometry will be disrupted.

Advice! To reduce construction costs, you can use the technology of prefabricated racks, which are assembled from two boards. To do this, they need to be knocked down with nails in a checkerboard pattern in 20 cm increments. Of course, construction will take more time, since each rack will have to be assembled separately, but the load-bearing capacity of these elements is several times higher.

Corners of a frame house

The arrangement of corners raises many questions. If you install the rack beam directly on the corner, then the installation can be done without problems, but in this case it will be cold. For areas with mild climates this is not a problem. But in middle lane Russian winters are cold, and corner elements need additional insulation.

There are two options to solve the problem:

1. Install the racks at a distance of 15-20 cm from the corner, then there will be a gap between the frame sheathing and the timber, which is insulated with an insulator.
2. Install 2 racks in the corners at a distance of 10-15 cm, depending on the thickness of the heat insulator.

In addition, the structure can be insulated again during installation. facing material, then the house will not only be warm, but will also take on an aesthetic appearance.

Overlap

The beams are secured to the top frame in three ways:

1. On steel support brackets;
2. On steel corners;
3. With insert.

The installation step of the beam structure and the size of the elements directly depend on what is planned to be done on top. If it is intended to arrange attic floor, then in order to prevent the floor from sagging, the cross-section of the beams is taken to be maximum, and the step between them is reduced to 40 cm. If there is just an attic and roof on top, then the step can be increased to 60 cm, and the beams can be arranged with a section of 100x100.

If you plan to build a second floor, then take 150x150 beams and install a subfloor on them - this will make it easier to work with the walls of the second floor. The assembly of the structure itself is carried out similarly to that used during the construction of the first floor, but with the difference that the wall frame structure will have to be dragged to the second floor.

Rafter system and roofing material

Often, when building a house using frame technology, two types of rafter systems are used:

1. Gable;
2. Attic.

The difference in their arrangement is small; it is enough to correctly calculate the material. But in the case of frame buildings, there is a weight limit roofing material– it must be light, otherwise wooden beams may not withstand heavy loads.

Insulation

To insulate a frame structure, you can use any of the known insulators that meet the characteristics and requirements for thermal insulation:

• Mineral wool - meets all the requirements, but it is worth remembering that this material is not moisture resistant and, when wet, can lose its insulating properties by 30-50%. To prevent such consequences, you need to install high-quality vapor barrier.
• Polystyrene foam is the most inexpensive and popular insulation material that does not absorb moisture, does not sag, and retains heat well.
• Basalt wool is a natural insulator that can be purchased both in rolls and in mats.
• Expanded polystyrene is almost the same foam, but its fraction is much finer. The material meets all sanitary standards, does not absorb moisture, and retains heat well. The only drawback is that they are straight Sun rays destroy the material.

Important! Choosing a size insulating material, it is worth remembering that the slabs should be 2-4 cm larger than the gaps between the racks, so that when installing the insulator there are no unwanted cold bridges.

The choice of insulation material depends on financial capabilities and the region of construction, but it is better not to skimp on insulation, since this determines how much money you will spend on heating the room.

Finally

Using the tips and step-by-step instructions described above, anyone can assemble a frame structure on their own, without resorting to help professional builders. Houses using Canadian technology are assembled in a short time and are inexpensive, which is what has made them so popular among private developers.