Laying parquet boards. Do-it-yourself technology for laying parquet boards: step-by-step instructions How to assemble parquet boards

Many owners as flooring choose a parquet board. And this is quite understandable. This coating looks great in the interior. If the installation technology is followed parquet board, then the floor will last for many years. An undoubted advantage of the coating is its ease of maintenance. Many people think that laying parquet boards on their own is difficult. Later in the article we will figure out whether this is so.

Tools

Of course, laying parquet boards is carried out using special devices. It must be said that every owner has most of the tools. Cutting panels is best done with a jigsaw. If you don’t have this tool, then you can easily use a hacksaw with fine teeth (for metal). The parquet board is knocked down using a hammer. Its weight should be about 1 kg. A specially prepared piece of plastic acts as a tamping block. It is included in the standard kit for laying laminate or parquet. A plastic block is not as rigid as a wooden one. Thanks to this, chipping at the edges of the panels can be avoided. During the installation process, you will also need plastic restrictive wedges. They are necessary to fix the gap between the coating and the walls. These wedges can be made independently from wood. Another device included in the parquet installation kit is a metal bracket. With its help, the last panel is fixed. If there is no metal bracket, it can be replaced with a clamp. You will also need a tape measure, a level and a square.

Laying parquet boards: basic methods

Depending on the dimensions of the panels, one or another version of the covering flooring is used. Among the most popular are the following:

On the logs.
Using nails. The panels are nailed to subfloor made of wood.
Glue method.
Floating method. In this case, the panels are connected using a special lock.

The latter option is considered the most popular today, since laying parquet boards in this case is convenient both in a small room and in a large room. Flooring using the glue method is used less and less today. This is due to the greater labor intensity of the entire process. In this case, laying the panels requires perseverance from the master. Fixing with nails to a wooden subfloor is usually used for solid parquet. But it must be said that this type of panel is gradually disappearing from stores. When laying parquet on joists, it is necessary to arrange a distance between them of no more than 30-40 cm. This is not very economically profitable. That is why in 90% of cases today the floating flooring method is used. This option is considered ideal for those who intend to do the work themselves. In any case, regardless of the chosen method, before laying the parquet board, it is necessary to prepare the base. It must be clean, level and dry.

Preparatory stage

Before laying the parquet board, it is kept for two to three days in the room where the work will be carried out. It is necessary to lay a backing under the panels. It can be cork or synthetic. Thanks to the backing, the parquet board will be protected from excess moisture. The strips of material must be glued together with tape at the joints. The more closely the parts fit together and the more thoroughly they are closed, the more airtight the base. Laying parquet boards with your own hands can be done using both parallel and diagonal methods. The selected option will not affect the performance characteristics of the coating. However, it should be remembered that diagonal laying significantly increases the consumption of parquet boards. It can range from 2 to 7%. As a rule, the diagonal method is used in those rooms where it is necessary to smooth out the effect of unsuccessful placement of furniture.

First row

Let's take a closer look at how to properly lay parquet boards. The first stage involves laying the 1st and 2nd rows. They should be located parallel to the light falling from the window. Therefore, before laying the parquet board, you should install wedges against the wall to provide clearance. The gap between the coating and the wall is at least 10 mm. This distance is necessary to protect the panels from mechanical damage when changing temperature and humidity conditions in the room. The first two panels are pressed tightly against the spacer wedges.

Optimal distance between seams

Many beginners do not know how to properly lay parquet boards. Experienced experts recommend that when laying the second row, the panel closest to the wall should be sawed off to a length of at least 80 cm. It is considered ideal that the transverse seam in the first row would be located opposite the middle of the board of the second. However, in any case, a minimum run-up must be maintained. Transverse seams parallel rows should be located at a distance of at least half a meter from each other. Otherwise, the connections will be weak.

Second row

Many craftsmen find the floating method very convenient. If there are any errors during the installation process, everything can be corrected. The panel from the second row must be inserted into the groove of the first. To do this, the board is tilted at an angle of approximately 20 degrees. The panel snaps into place, but is not fixed. The second board is inserted in the same way. It also snaps and is tapped to the first one. After the panels are tightly joined, they are fixed in the groove of the first row. To completely eliminate the seam, the boards are beaten using timber. Using this method, the covering is laid over the entire floor.

The last row

Many, especially beginners, craftsmen may have some difficulties at the final stage of flooring. By following these recommendations, you can make your work much easier. First of all, you should measure the distance from the wall to the penultimate row. The width of the panel that will complete the flooring should be 1 cm less than the obtained value. This ensures the necessary compensation gap. In the groove of the penultimate row it is necessary to cut off the locking edge. After this, the finishing boards are inserted. For a tight insertion, a mounting paw or clamp is used.

Shutdown

The final stage is the installation of skirting boards. The wedges must first be removed from the expansion gap. The baseboards are attached exclusively to the wall surface. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that it is not pressed tightly against the parquet. The width of the plinth should be enough to hide the expansion gap.

Diagonal method

Laying parquet using this method is carried out in the same way as described above. The only difference is that the panels are not located straight, but at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the axis of the room. It is best to determine the direction of the flooring while standing with your back to the doors. This option is not suitable for a rectangular narrow room, as it will look very colorful.

Finishing

Previously, traditionally, after laying parquet, it was sanded. This made it possible to achieve a perfectly flat surface. For modern parquet flooring this procedure is not required. But during operation, in some cases it becomes necessary to refresh the surface. To do this, scraping is carried out to a depth of no more than 0.5 mm and additional coating with several layers of varnish. A three-layer parquet board is tidied up using a belt sander. Powerful drum units are not suitable for this work. This is due to the fact that they create quite strong vibration, which, in turn, negatively affects the internal structure of the coating. Sanding begins with 40-grit sandpaper. The process is completed with 150-grit abrasive. The completion of the work can be checked by running your hand across the floor. If there are no roughnesses, then grinding is complete.

Installing flooring is a very responsible process and not always easy, especially when it comes to parquet boards. Correct styling parquet has many nuances, and to an inexperienced person it may seem like an overwhelming task. But if you study the instructions in detail and choose the material wisely, installing parquet boards yourself will turn out no worse than those done by specialists.

Parquet boards are a popular and sought-after material, which is why many companies produce them. Not all of them can boast high quality your product, which means you should choose it very carefully.

A standard parquet board consists of three layers:

front layer made from expensive wood, treated with varnish or impregnated with special oil. The thickness of the front covering is from 1 to 6 mm;
For the middle layer, short slats made of spruce and pine, and sometimes moisture-resistant plywood, are used. All elements of the locking system are also located here;
the third layer is spruce veneer 2 mm thick.

: length 2-2.5 m, width up to 20 cm, thickness from 7 to 26 mm.

For rooms with a light load on the floor, a board with a thickness of 10 mm or more is suitable. For the living room, it is better to choose a coating with a thickness of 13-15 mm, which is more resistant to mechanical stress. If the floor will be laid on logs rather than on a concrete screed, you should choose parquet boards of maximum thickness.

Another criterion for selection is the number of lamellas of the top layer. If the face layer consists of a single piece of wood, it is called single-strip. If the covering consists of two or three tightly fitted parallel lamellas, it is already a multi-strip parquet board. Single-strip boards visually expand the room and look great in classic interiors. There are options for this coating with chamfers at the corners, which creates the impression solid board from expensive wood.

The most traditional option is considered a three-strip board with a pattern underneath natural parquet. Each of the three lamellas is divided into several segments that differ in tone. The segments can be arranged in the form of a wicker, a parquet herringbone or in parallel, in the form of a deck pattern. This coating is very decorative and looks great in both small and spacious rooms.

The parquet board must be laid on a solid, level and clean base. Any defects, cracks, or delamination of the base lead to deformation of the boards and reduce their strength. When installing this coating, a height difference of only 1-3 mm per square meter. So, first, the base is cleaned of debris and dust and its integrity is checked. Deep cracks should be repaired with cement mortar; small cracks should simply be rubbed over. Using the rule, check the flatness of the floor and, if necessary, fill the screed.

A polyethylene film or a special waterproofing membrane is laid on a dry base. Its edges should extend onto the walls by about 5 cm.

A layer of thermal insulation should be laid on the film; Most often, foamed polyethylene in rolls is used for these purposes. The insulation is cut into pieces along the length of the floor, laid tightly against the walls, and glued together with tape. Instead of polyethylene, polystyrene foam boards and sheet cork are also used. The insulation layer has good shock absorption, does not allow cement dust to seep in, and levels out minor defects grounds.

During the installation process you will need:

There are two installation methods: floating and adhesive.

The fastest and most convenient is the first option. In this case, the boards can be fastened with locks or glued together at the ends. Lock system allows for high-quality installation of the coating in the shortest possible time, and also greatly facilitates the replacement of damaged areas.

Step 1. Installation of the first row

First, measure the width of the room and calculate the number of rows of panels. It is very important to know the width of the last row: if it is less than 4 cm, all the boards of the first row should be cut to the same width. Start work from the corner of the longest wall from left to right. The board is turned with the lock to the wall and placed on the floor.

Several mounting wedges are inserted between the wall surface and the edge of the board to provide a gap of 6-7 mm. The end of the next board is placed close to the first and the grooves are connected. The entire first row is installed in this way, cutting the last board to fit the size of the room and not forgetting the gap between the wall and the covering.

Step 2. Laying subsequent rows

For high-quality adhesion, the rows must be shifted parallel to each other by at least 30 cm. The first panel of the second row is cut in half and laid away from the wall. To connect to the first row, take the board with both hands, apply it at an angle to the edge of the fixed panel, level it and click the lock with pressure. The remaining panels are mounted in the same way. To speed up this process, use a rubber or wooden hammer, carefully knocking the boards along the joint line.

Step 3. Trimming the covering for the door frame

When installing the covering near a doorway, take a piece of board and apply it to the bottom edge of the frame. They cut out part of the stand so that the board fits tightly under the box, and immediately remove the sawdust and dust. Cut along the threshold thin line substrates, apply aluminum profile with holes for fastening, marking them on the floor with a pencil.

Drill holes for dowels and secure the profile. Next, cut the parquet board and insert it under door frame, locks latched. Finally, a metal threshold is mounted at the opening, screwing it to the profile and covering the ends of the boards.

Step 4. Final stage of installation

When laying parquet boards around communication pipes, use a paper template: apply the template to the panel, mark the boundaries of the hole with a pencil, and cut out the desired fragment with a jigsaw. It is necessary to leave at least 1 cm between the last row and the wall of the room, otherwise the floor may be deformed. When all the boards are laid, the wedges are removed, the baseboards are installed, and the floor surface is wiped with a clean rag.

Glue installation method

At glue method During installation, the parquet board is laid directly on the concrete screed. In order for the floor covering to serve for a long time, the base is well prepared: carefully leveled, cleaned of dust, and covered with a dense layer of synthetic-based primer.

Attaching each panel should take no more than 10 minutes so that the glue does not have time to dry. Instead of sealant, you can use cork chips - it easily penetrates the seams, insulates heat well, and does not allow cement dust to pass through.

Installation of parquet boards on heated floors and joists

Parquet boards are very demanding on temperature conditions and do not tolerate overheating. Maximum permissible value— 26°C above zero, and even then not for every type of wood. If the material is suitable for laying on a heated floor, this must be indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. If there is no such information, it is not worth the risk, because replacing dry floors will be very expensive. Install the parquet board directly onto the heated floor system using a floating method.

It is not recommended to lay such a covering on a water-heated floor, since if the pipes break or burst, the parquet board will be severely damaged. It is best if an electric or infrared heated floor is installed - their design is more reliable.

Many people prefer to lay flooring on joists. In this case, you will need sheets of waterproof plywood and screws for fastening it. The logs must be strong and even, located in the same horizontal plane. The space between the joists is covered with a waterproofing film, filled with insulation, and then sheets of plywood, pre-treated with an antiseptic compound, are stuffed on top.

When using the adhesive installation method, the boards are glued directly to the plywood, but if the floating method is used, it is recommended to lay a cork backing on the plywood. The installation process follows the technology described above. In some cases, the parquet board is mounted directly on the logs. In this case, the distance between the logs is made no more than 60 cm, and the parquet board is chosen as thick as possible.

Video - DIY parquet board installation

If you plan to perform high-quality work, pay attention to how the parquet boards are laid. This material presented in large assortment, which will allow you to choose the appropriate option. We propose to deal with technological features performing installation work.

Read in the article

What is a parquet board and what does it look like: photos of interesting solutions in the interior

Parquet boards are a popular type of flooring, manufactured in different countries for more than half a century. It is a rectangular multilayer product, which, when combined with other elements, forms a solid surface. We invite you to look at the photo of the parquet board so that you can appreciate the presentability of this type of flooring:

Advantages and disadvantages of parquet boards

The choice in favor of parquet boards is made because of its undeniable advantages. This material:

is natural, environmentally friendly;
has a unique design;
has a presentable appearance. Thanks to the production technology used, parquet boards look as noble as natural ones piece parquet, but at the same time has a lower cost;
does not change its geometry with temperature fluctuations and changes;
Installs much easier than parquet blocks. Installation work can be done in-house;
all elements fit tightly enough to each other thanks to locking or tongue-and-groove connections;
It happens different types. One- and two-strip panels are difficult to distinguish from plank floorboards. Three-strips imitate parquet well;
does not require additional processing after installation.

Wooden base

The procedure for preparing a wooden base depends on the condition of the boards. If the flooring was formed relatively recently and has no defects or elements affected by fungus or mold, the restoration stage can be skipped. Damaged fragments should be replaced with new ones. If the wooden base sags, it should be strengthened. Those with cracks must. Knots – remove by sanding.

On preparatory stage Be sure to check the degree of curvature of the base. To level the bases, you should use sanding equipment, putty the base or lay it. Laying parquet boards on plywood can also be carried out in the case of a concrete base.

Attention! The difference in height in any meter section should not exceed 2 mm.

How to lay a backing: important points

If the adhesive installation method is chosen, the parquet boards are laid directly on. In this case, you should refuse to use the substrate. At lock method work is performed in the following sequence:

Illustration	Description of action
	The floor is covered with film. It is laid with an overlap of 15–25 cm. Adhesive tape is used for fixation.
	Covered. The choice can be given to sheets or roll materials. Installation is carried out end-to-end.

Attention! If installation will be carried out on a heated floor, you should check its performance for 2 weeks, and then turn it off 3-4 hours before installation.

Technology of laying parquet boards in different ways

The technology for laying parquet boards depends on design features selected material. Before starting installation work, read the manufacturers' recommendations.

Laying parquet boards using the floating method

Installation work begins with the longest wall. You should move from left to right. Expansion wedges are installed along the entire perimeter of the room during the installation of parquet boards using a floating method.

Attention! When laying parquet boards professionally, some specialists install the pegs after assembling the first three rows.

For panels laid in the first row, the protruding part of the lock should be cut off. The installation of the lamellas of the next row is carried out with some offset relative to the first.

We invite you to watch a video describing in detail how to lay parquet boards using the floating method:

Laying parquet boards with glue: detailed video instructions

The procedure for laying parquet boards with glue is slightly different. We suggest watching the video to make it easier for you to understand the intricacies of the process:

How to lay parquet boards on joists: algorithm of actions

We suggest you figure out how to lay parquet boards on joists. Installation work is carried out in the following sequence:

We control the spatial position of each log.

Illustration	Description of action
	Logs are installed. In the longitudinal direction they should be placed at a distance of 10 cm from the wall. At the end you need to retreat 3 cm.
	If there are deviations, the required level is ensured using plastic wedges. The latter must be secured with fasteners. We install parquet boards.
	We control the gap between the formed coating and the wall. It should not be less than 3 cm. We install a ventilated baseboard.

Features of installing parquet on the wall

Parquet is widely used in wall decoration. Depending on the panel, the panels can be mounted in different ways:

along the wall;
across the base;
diagonally.

You can cover not only the entire surface of the wall with parquet boards, but also a certain part, or arrange it in any order.

The installation procedure is almost identical to laying it on the floor. We invite you to watch a video that explains in detail how to lay and fasten parquet:

Operation and care of parquet boards

In order for the formed floor covering to last as long as possible, it must be used correctly: it must be protected from mechanical stress. It is advisable that the legs of the furniture have special pads, or that it is operated on transparent plastic mats. A mat should be provided at the entrance to the apartment to prevent sand from getting inside from the street. You should walk around the room either barefoot or wearing special house shoes.

Those who want to emphasize their status, wealth and good taste should pay attention to parquet when choosing flooring. It has high reliability, environmental friendliness, good wear resistance and excellent appearance. The process of laying parquet has always been one of the most complex species work, but with the advent of massive parquet boards, everything became much easier. Laying a parquet board is a fairly simple task, and you can do it yourself, the main thing is to be able to use the tool and follow certain rules and recommendations.

Today there are two types of parquet boards on the market: solid parquet boards and multilayer parquet boards. They differ in their production method.

Solid parquet board made from whole piece wood with a groove and a ridge at the ends. For its production, both deciduous and coniferous wood are used.

Multilayer parquet board consists of different types of wood

Created by combining several types of wood with different characteristics, thereby achieving exceptional performance characteristics of the board. For the first layer of lamellas, hard and valuable wood species are used. It will depend on the first layer appearance and strength of the parquet board. The second layer of lamellas is located perpendicular to the first, and wood is taken for it soft rocks. This layer is used as connecting element both for this panel and for neighboring ones. The third layer is made of plywood or pine or spruce slats up to 4 mm thick.

In addition, parquet boards are sold with a coating applied at the factory, impregnated against fungi and rot. Regardless of the type of parquet board, its durability and strength are directly affected by compliance with production, storage and installation technology. And if on manufacturing process and it is impossible to influence the storage conditions, then you can control the installation process, or better yet, do it yourself.

Specifics of laying parquet boards

To create a strong and durable floor covering from parquet boards, skill in using the tool will not be enough. If you do not adhere to installation technology during work, you will not get reliable and beautiful parquet. Therefore, before laying parquet boards, it is necessary to perform a number of preparatory work and adhere to certain technological requirements.

The first thing you should pay attention to is the base on which the parquet board will be laid. It should be smooth, durable, without cracks, depressions or differences. The maximum permissible height difference is 2 mm per 1 linear meter. If the foundation is damaged, it should be repaired or rebuilt.

Second important point Something to pay attention to is the humidity level in the room. Parquet boards do not tolerate high humidity well, so installing them in a bathroom, toilet or kitchen is undesirable.

Thirdly, after purchasing and delivering a parquet board, it must be allowed to sit indoors for 48 hours. And only after the board has “accustomed” to the microclimate of the room can you begin laying it.

Fourthly, in order to obtain a truly strong and durable coating, during installation indoors it is necessary to maintain a certain level of humidity, in the range of 35-65%, and a temperature not lower than +18 °C.

Laying plan for parquet boards

Another requirement for laying parquet boards is the presence of a backing and waterproofing, regardless of the type of base and room. The parquet board itself should be laid in the direction of the rays of light to hide the shadows at the joints.

Preparing the base for installation

Before laying the parquet board, the surface is leveled with a self-leveling mixture

Installation of parquet boards can be done on both concrete and wooden bases. The main requirements for it are strength, reliability and a smooth surface. Therefore, before installation, it is necessary to inspect the base and, if necessary, carry out repair work.

Let's prepare the wooden floor

If the parquet board will be laid on a wooden floor, you should check it for dips, creaks and differences between the floorboards. If the floor is in excellent condition, but there are small differences and gaps between the floor boards, then it needs to be leveled. To do this, the surface can be scraped and puttied, then sanded and further installation work can begin. If the floorboards squeak or loosen a little, they can be secured to the joists using self-tapping screws, and the surface can be scraped and puttied. But if a wooden floor fails, you will have to disassemble it down to the joists, level or partially replace them, and then reassemble the entire structure.

Preparing a rough concrete base

With a concrete base the situation is somewhat simpler. Its surface should be checked for cracks, differences or depressions. If any are present, the surface should be cleared of debris, filled with a self-leveling mixture and allowed to dry for several days. But if the concrete has cracked, turned to dust and is wobbly in places, then you will have to use a hammer drill to remove the old concrete screed to the base and pour a new one. And only after the concrete has dried can you begin laying the parquet boards.

How to lay parquet boards correctly

Before laying the parquet board, you need to decide on the method of laying it. There are only two of them - glued and glueless (floating).

Gluing the parquet board to the base creates monolithic structure

The adhesive installation method allows you to create a durable and reliable coverage in rooms with a large area. The process itself is quite labor-intensive and requires increased attention and precision in the work. In addition, if there is a need to replace one panel, you will have to tinker a lot and, possibly, replace several adjacent panels at once. The glueless method is the simplest and fastest. The panels themselves are connected to each other in a lock and laid on a substrate, while the lock connection is sometimes glued.

Installation of parquet boards is carried out as follows:

We lay waterproofing on a concrete or wooden base from polyethylene film. We lay the film sheets overlapping (15 - 20 cm) and glue them together with tape. We also make an overlap of 10 - 15 cm on the walls and glue it with tape;

Lay a backing on top of the film. For these purposes, you can use foamed polyethylene, polystyrene or cork. Polyethylene foam and cork are sold in rolls, and polystyrene is sold in the form of mats. We spread sheets of foamed polyethylene and cork along the entire length of the room and glue them with tape. We lay the polystyrene mats end to end and “staggered”, sealing the joints with tape. If you plan to create a completely environmentally friendly floor covering, then you should use cork as a substrate.

The adhesive method of laying parquet boards requires a base made of moisture-resistant plywood

Important! If you plan to use a glue method for laying parquet boards, then waterproof plywood is used as a backing. We lay its sheets directly on the base and secure it with self-tapping screws. We begin laying from the walls, moving towards the middle of the room so that the last row of sheets lies between the two previously laid.

Now it is necessary to carry out small calculations of the number of rows of parquet boards. If it becomes necessary to trim the last row and its width is less than 5 cm, then you will have to make the first and last row the same width;

The first row of parquet boards is laid with a tenon against the wall (the tenon is pre-cut down)

we lay the panels of the first row with the tenon to the wall;

Important! For a tighter fit, the tenon on the longitudinal side of the panels must be cut off.

Since wood tends to expand or shrink depending on seasonal humidity levels, it is necessary to leave a gap of 10 - 15 cm between the wall and the parquet board. To maintain this gap during installation, we insert special pegs. We place three pegs on the longitudinal side of one panel, and two on the narrow side;

For a tight fit, we finish the parquet boards with a hammer

We connect the panels of the first row together into a lock. To do this, place each next panel at a slight angle with a tenon into the groove of the previous one and, for a tight fit, finish it with a hammer through a wooden block;

In addition to gluing the parquet board to the base, we secure it into the groove with pneumatic nails

Important! If we use the adhesive installation method, then before laying each new panel, apply glue to the place where it is laid and level it using a notched trowel. We additionally secure the panels using pneumatic nails in an inconspicuous place - inside the groove. It is necessary to ensure that parquet panels at narrow joints do not form ledges or bevels.

For greater strength, laying parquet boards must be done “staggered”

In order for parquet to be a reliable and durable floor covering, it should be laid staggered. Therefore, we begin to lay the second row with a shorter board. To do this, you will have to cut the board so that it is 2/3 of the normal length;

the second row of panels is connected to each other in the same way as the first, then the entire row is moved towards the first and connected. We place the panels of the second row at a slight angle into the groove of the first row and, for a tighter fit, we finish the panels with a hammer through a block. We do this gradually, first the first panel, then the second and so on until the end;

Important! The last panels in each row should be finished off using a clamp. With the adhesive laying method, the second row is laid by casting. To do this, glue is applied to the installation site and the parquet panel is immediately laid, which is achieved with a hammer, and only after that the next one is laid. We secure the second row of panels additionally in the same way as the first.

We begin laying the third row of panels from a board whose length is 1/3 of the normal length. After which the installation is carried out according to the algorithm of the first and second rows;

We begin laying the fourth row from the whole panel. We lay each next row, completely repeating the above-described algorithm for laying the first four rows;

when laying parquet boards near doorways, it is necessary to make cutouts in the board so that it fits snugly against the door frame posts;

Particular attention must be paid to the places in the room where the heating pipe risers pass. To make installation in such places, it is necessary to mark the position of the pipes on the parquet board. After this, drill a hole for the pipe with a diameter 2 mm larger than the pipe itself, and cut off part of the board exactly in the middle of the hole. Now we put most of the board in place and secure it. Apply glue to the ends of the cut piece and put it in place. We place a special plug around the pipe in the same color as the parquet;

when the parquet board is laid over the entire area of the room, remove the spacer pegs between the wall and the first row;

The final stage of laying parquet boards is the installation of skirting boards. The plinth itself is attached to a special fastener - a clamp. To install the plinth, first cut off the protruding part of the substrate and waterproofing with a knife. Then we install the first clamps at a distance of 15 - 20 cm from the corners, install the next clamps in increments of 40 - 50 cm. The clamps themselves for the plinth are attached to the wall using dowels and self-tapping screws.

Important! If glue was used during the installation process, it must be allowed to dry for 24 hours, after which the parquet flooring will be ready for use.

Parquet board and “warm floor”

The parquet board itself is a fairly good thermal insulation material; in addition, the substrate provides additional thermal insulation. But if there is a need for additional heating, then the parquet board can be laid on the “warm floor” system. The main thing to consider is the type of “warm floor”. It should be water heated, but not electric. The fact is that “warm floors” with electric heating get too hot too quickly, and as a result, the locking joint of the parquet board begins to crack due to a sharp temperature change.

Also, before starting the installation process, it is necessary to turn off the system in advance and allow the floors to cool to room temperature, and only then begin installation. Upon completion of all work on installing the parquet board, the “warm floor” system can be turned on no earlier than 7 days later, and the temperature can be increased to the same level gradually, 2-3 degrees per day. In addition, in order for a parquet floor to not “lead”, the temperature over the entire surface must be the same. If the “warm floor” system is installed in all rooms, during installation it is necessary to ensure that in each room the parquet floor ends at the doorways.

The parquet board served as an alternative to classic parquet, which made it possible to create beautiful and natural floors on your own, significantly saving on the services of hired craftsmen. But like anyone natural material, parquet boards require careful work and compliance with all standards, requirements and recommendations of the manufacturer, by observing which you can create a reliable and durable floor covering.

Parquet boards have been popular at all times. And today's fashion does not ignore it. Moreover, if you install parquet boards yourself, you can significantly save on repairs. Let's try to understand this issue in more detail.

Rules and subtleties

The first copies of this building material were presented to the world in the early 40s of the last century. Small company from Sweden has set itself the task of producing an equivalent analogue to expensive parquet. The second task was the desire to significantly speed up the process of laying the floor, since with a small parquet it was necessary to work hard.

The presented board consisted of two layers and was not widely used. Prototype modern coating appeared on the construction markets eight years later. And its main difference from its predecessor was the appearance of another layer.

Today, the dimensions of parquet boards differ depending on the manufacturer. Its length in its minimum dimensions is two meters, in its maximum – 2.6 m. The width starts from 13.9 cm and ends at 21 cm. The thickness is on average 14 mm.

A three-layer board consists of a stabilizing layer, a base and a top layer. The bottom layer protects the product from the concrete base. It is made from spruce veneer. Additionally, it prevents the board from deforming.

The central layer is made from pine. Special strips are laid out across the entire width of the product. And the top layer is directly responsible for the drawing. Depending on the price, these can be expensive or less expensive breeds valuable wood. These include oak, maple and alder. IN African countries Cocobolo and mahogany are used. Fix the slats to the board with glue.

The fibers of the main layer are not parallel, but perpendicular to each other. Thanks to this, good fixation is achieved and the building material does not deform.

The base can be tinted or bleached to give certain shades. Heat treatment and brushing are also performed.

Upper layer may consist of polyurethane, oil or wax. Some manufacturers additionally coat with alkyd varnish. Since the front layer is sanded and varnished, this building material becomes wear-resistant, moisture-resistant and serves long term. The main thing is to install it correctly.

It is very important to pay attention to what exactly the parquet board will be laid on. The floor must be level, solid, without chips or depressions. Only a minimal difference is allowed, otherwise the board will not hold up.

There is no need to tempt fate and lay parquet boards in rooms with high humidity - bathrooms, kitchens, swimming pools. Otherwise, the laid floor will quickly become unusable.

After transporting the building material, it is necessary to allow it to get used to the temperature and humidity of the room. Typically, specialists wait about two days, after which they begin installation. In this case, the room temperature should be higher than or equal to 17 degrees, and the humidity should be moderate.

Like laminate, parquet boards are laid lengthwise sun rays, thus concealing seams and minor defects is achieved. Don't forget about the backing. It acts as a noise-canceling material.

Tools and accessories

You should start laying parquet boards only after measuring the humidity in the room. Its indicators should not exceed sixty percent. A device called a hygrometer helps take measurements.

A set of tools designed for installing parquet boards:

Jigsaw. For household use a regular jigsaw made in South Korea, Japan, European Union countries or the United States of America. In a hardware store you can also find good examples of domestic manufacturers. The main thing is that the power of the device is at least 550 watts.
Hammer or mallet. It is not necessary that this hand tool It was from a renowned manufacturer; for household needs, any that is on hand will do.
Tape measure and square. Useful for measuring work.
Pencil. You can use a construction one, or a regular one.
Mounting block. Using this device, you can reduce the load on the locking joints and on the parquet board itself. In this case, cracks and chips are excluded.

Wedges. They are used as stops between the wall, door and parquet board. Remember that it is unacceptable to lay building materials without limiters, otherwise the board may fail due to changes in temperature and humidity.
Cutters and staples. Will be needed to secure the last row.
Hacksaw. A wood saw may be needed when fitting the final boards.
Hammer. With its help, holes are drilled for joining at the location of the heating system. The first holes are made with this tool, and the subsequent work is done with a jigsaw.
Miter box. It will be an indispensable assistant when installing skirting boards.
Sealant and a notched trowel.

Types and methods

The floating flooring method is the most popular throughout the world. The only limitation is the size of the room - it should not be more than 60 square meters. m. In this case, the base must be leveled, and the parquet board must have either a lock connection, or an ultralock, or a combination joint.

The second method of laying parquet boards is on polyurethane glue. With this, the concrete base must be leveled, the surface must be dried and dry. The moisture content of the screed should not exceed three percent. Special sheets of plywood are laid on the screed, which are subsequently sanded.

The glue is applied to the surface using a spatula, and the parquet board is tapped with a block to improve the effect. The glue dries in about 24 hours. But remember that some manufacturers advise using their own adhesive mixtures, so it’s best to familiarize yourself with the manufacturer’s recommendations in advance.

In some cases, experts resort to a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. If you fix the board with self-tapping screws at a certain angle, it will fit securely to the base. This method is known among layers as mechanical.

The methods of fastening the board were discussed above, now it’s worth familiarizing yourself with the methods of laying it.

The easiest way to lay parquet boards is either along or across the room. This method is often chosen, since installation does not require specific skills and experience. If you lay the parquet board lengthwise, the room will visually become longer, and if it is laid across, then, on the contrary, it will increase in width.

Mirrors will help enhance this visual effect. This must be taken into account in rooms of non-standard shape.

Diagonal masonry can only be done by professionals. It is less economical compared to laying along or across, as it creates sufficient quantity scraps. From a design point of view, the diagonal laying method is best used in square rooms. For correct cut required Miter saw. The cutting angle should be 45 degrees in some places, 30 degrees in others.

Laying begins in the center of the room. To maintain a straight line, you need to pull the thread or draw a felt-tip pen along the floor. The first row is the central one; you can continue laying from it in one direction or the other.

The herringbone layout has been known to many since Soviet times. The parquet was laid in this way. The installation principle is no different, the only difference is the length of the parquet board - it significantly exceeds the length of the parquet.

Deck masonry is slightly different from the longitudinal method - the offset of the new row should be greater than half the parquet board of the previous one. This ensures good fixation, which means the life of the flooring increases.

Preparing the base

Before laying the parquet board, you need to take care of the base. The subfloor not only levels the surface, but also contributes to noise reduction and thermal insulation. Craftsmen recommend making a permanent foundation and never returning to it again. This approach saves not only money, but also time and effort.

The subfloor has two types - dry and self-leveling. The first type is made on logs, and the second is done using concrete. Concrete expanded clay can also be used for wet floors. You only need to start from the availability in the hardware store and your financial situation.

Self-leveling subfloors are mainly made in panel city houses. This is due to the fact that the ceilings of such houses are made of reinforced concrete slabs. IN country houses It is possible to make a concrete screed, but this requires an appropriate foundation.

Remember that you need to pour the concrete screed only after fixing the waterproofing. Plastic film sold in a hardware store is quite suitable for this.

If waterproofing is not done, there is a high probability that liquid concrete through the cracks it will reach the neighbors living on the floor below. Therefore, the film must be firmly attached, and along the edges of the room it should be supplemented with penoflex.

The next layer of the “pie” is the thermal insulation material. Commonly used ones include polystyrene foam and penofol. The latter has an additional coating consisting of aluminum foil, which reflects heat. Foamed polyethylene is a new product on the construction market, its cost is slightly higher than its predecessors, but thanks to its unique features the material is gaining popularity.

It would be useful to cover the thermal insulation material with another layer of waterproofing.

Before pouring the floor with concrete screed, it is necessary to set up beacons. The screed will subsequently be leveled along them. For accuracy, you should use a building level; it must be of suitable dimensions and characteristics.

Concrete expanded clay has improved noise absorption and thermal insulation properties. It is the benchmark in this segment and is head and shoulders above the outdated concrete.

Mix the solution according to the instructions, then a short time pour it onto the prepared base. Alignment concrete screed carried out using a tool - rules, do not forget about beacons. Excess must be removed without sparing. After the surface becomes smooth, the floor is left to dry.

The subfloor made of wood is mounted on a concrete base. To do this, logs are laid on the prepared surface.

In this case, the base must be leveled and not have significant distortions, otherwise the parquet board laid on such a base will “creak”. And the floor itself will be crooked.

If the concrete floor in the room is uneven, it is recommended to “tweak” it slightly. It is correct, from the point of view of the layers, to use an additional layer of screed. A small amount of solution is enough to just correct this deficiency. TO next stage start after it has completely dried.

Subsequently, you need to put a waterproofing film on the screed. All cracks are thoroughly sealed with regular adhesive tape. For sound insulation, you can use natural material - balsa wood or the previously mentioned polyethylene foam. Without this layer, there is a high probability of noise occurring when walking.

It is best to use high-quality edged board made of solid wood with dimensions 25 x 100 mm. It is not advisable to save money in this matter, otherwise the result will be disastrous. Remember that the miser pays twice. The logs are installed on a noise reduction layer, the result of the work is constantly checked using a building level. The joists are secured to the floor with corners.

The insulation is placed between the joists so that it is flush with them, there should be no protrusions. Plywood is laid on top of this structure. If the budget is limited, then plywood can be replaced with floorboards.

Remember that the thickness of the plywood must be more than 20 mm, otherwise it will deform under the weight of human traffic. Thin plywood can also be negatively affected by massive furniture.

Plywood must be laid in a checkerboard pattern. This ensures that the joints will not be in the same row. Installation is carried out using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. Do not forget that you need to lay plywood by making an indentation from the wall. It must be at least 3 cm.

If the house is wooden, then the subfloor can be installed according to load-bearing beams. In this case, the beams will play the role of a log, which means that thanks to this you can save significantly. But remember that p The distance between the beams should be small, otherwise you will have to “build up” an additional base from the logs.

Selecting a substrate

If the parquet board is laid without the use of polyurethane glue (or any other), then a backing must be laid between the product and the base. Recommendations for the underlying layer are also given by manufacturing plants. This layer comes in the form of non-woven rolls or ordinary mats.

The underlay ensures a tight seal between the parquet board and the concrete or wooden floor, thereby reducing the likelihood of squeaks or other extraneous noise.

The backing layer protects the locking connection from premature failure. It retains heat well in the room and prevents damage to the parquet board due to moisture.

Despite all the advantages, it is worth remembering that they are achieved only if the thickness of the substrate does not exceed 3 mm. "Overdose", as in the case of tablets, leads to negative consequences, in particular, to the destruction of parquet board locks.

The choice of substrate is determined by the type of subfloor. For concrete, you can use a “non-breathable” substrate. And for a wooden base - only from natural materials, since if you use polyethylene, the wood may begin to rot under the influence of moisture.

The most affordable is an elastomer backing layer. It is available in three varieties. Ordinary can be called non-crosslinked polyethylene, in the second “place” - having a layer of aluminum foil - either on one or both sides. And foamed polyethylene, but do not confuse it with polyurethane and polypropylene.

The popularity of this synthetic material is due to its affordable cost, ease of installation, and excellent water-repellent properties. The material does not deteriorate even under the influence of a chemical environment. Unfortunately, there is also a significant drawback - during operation, the material may settle, which means that air will appear between the base and the parquet board, which can lead to squeaking.

Another one is used as a base layer synthetic material– foamed polystyrene. On sale it can be found in the form of an accordion; there are also improved versions with a foil heat-reflecting layer. This material is easy to install, it protects the parquet board from moisture, has good noise-reducing properties, and retains heat. Unfortunately, it also has its drawback - it is high cost.

An underlayment made of pine or spruce is sold in hardware stores as pine mats. Coniferous underlayment is suitable for any subfloor. It has all the previously mentioned qualities, like other representatives of this segment. Among the disadvantages, experts note the high cost and installation - it is uneconomical and labor-intensive.

In addition, like any natural material, it is damaged by pests and fungal spores. It is desirable that the thickness of the substrate be less than 5 mm.

Construction paper was developed in the country that invented parquet boards. Therefore, we can safely recommend this underlying layer as an alternative to the others. Cardboard is dense, it is very difficult to tear, it “breathes” and has noise-reducing properties. But like any paper, cardboard does not tolerate moisture; it should not be laid in kitchens or bathrooms. Another disadvantage is the cost.

Cork substrate is available in the form of special sheets and rolls. This is a natural building material obtained by pressing tree bark. The most commonly used bark is oak. It is glued together using various resins. Like any natural material, it is subject to colonization by fungal spores, so it is necessary to lay waterproofing.

There are varieties in the store that have two layers. The second waterproofing layer is either rubber or bitumen. The addition gives the product soundproofing qualities, resistance to deformation and static electricity. Depending on the presence or absence of a second layer, the thickness of the cork backing can be either 2 or 7 mm.

One of the latest innovations in the construction segment is the Tuplex underlay, which is suitable for parquet boards with a thickness of over 10 mm. This is a synthetic material consisting of double polyethylene film and filler. The filler is mainly made of polystyrene. The base layer is also suitable for underfloor heating systems. Adhesive tape is used to secure it.

A plywood underlay is only required when leveling the base. If there is no such need, then a substrate will not be needed.

You can choose a base layer at any hardware store, based only on your preferences and financial situation.

Lay it on concrete

As an example, we will consider glue method styling Before you begin installing the parquet board, you need to treat the concrete floor with an acrylic primer. The application layer should not be too thick. After the primer has covered the entire surface, you need to wait until it dries.

In terms of its physical characteristics, the glue should not resemble liquid sour cream; it is better that it be denser. The adhesive is applied to the concrete base using any in a convenient way, preferably with a brush. It is spread over the surface with a wide metal spatula.

Without waiting for the glue to dry, a base layer in the form of plywood sheets is laid. The glue must be applied evenly in all areas so that the plywood lies equally level - the work is checked using a building level. Plywood can be laid in any way, there is no difference, the main thing is not to forget to sand the seams acrylic sealant. After two days, the work is checked again with a level, and if the installation was done efficiently, then it is necessary to consolidate the result - sand the surface.

A tape is suitable for this stage Grinder, it speeds up the process and does its job efficiently. You won't be able to achieve the same result with sandpaper.

The second stage involves laying the parquet board; either polyurethane glue or acrylic glue is suitable for this. First, wedges are installed - they limit the parquet board, and the gap is equal to 10 mm.

The glue is prepared in small containers and used in the first minutes, the board is laid with spikes against the wall. To distribute the glue you will need a spatula with a serrated design.

If you cut the next row by a third, you can achieve a beautiful pattern. In addition, the locking connection will hold better and will not collapse after some time. The leveling of the parquet board must be checked using a building level.

If the glue protrudes through the edges, it must be removed. After installing the floor, all seams are sealed with sealant. Finishing The parquet is made after waiting five days.

If the room has a wooden lining, then the floor is installed without glue or screws. The main condition is the small dimensions of the room or terrace. In this case, the locking connection will cope with its task with a bang, and the parquet board will last a long time.

How to put it on a “warm floor”?

First of all, I would like to note the fact that for a warm floor it is necessary to lay parquet boards made of either oak or walnut. It is these two types of wood that, in terms of their physical characteristics, ensure compatibility with it, since they do not deform under the influence of temperature. If the base is maple or beech, then such a board will fail in a short period of time, because their thermal conductivity is higher.

It is very important to take into account the thickness of the parquet board, and if the board is thick, then the “warm floor” effect will not be felt. The fact is that thick wood will not allow heat to escape. Only products whose thickness does not exceed 14.5 mm cope with this task.

The floor must be laid in a floating manner. With this method of laying, the wood does not deform under the influence of humidity and when changing temperature regime. The floor heating system also plays an important role. Remember that wood is highly flammable, which means there is a risk of fire.

Warm floors come in infrared, water and electric type. Water and electric heated floors have been known to the world since the beginning of the last century. For electric heating element are cables, but in a wooden box there is a risk of fire, and it is completely forbidden to lay water cables in city apartments, since you can flood the neighbors below.

Infrared film heated floors were invented in South Korea several years ago. This is a kind of novelty, although indirectly it can be called a type of electric heating system. It is worth remembering that the temperature set on the thermostat should not be higher than 28 degrees.

Water floor – best option for country cottages, provided that the ceiling between the basement and the first floor is made using wooden blocks. It has significant disadvantages, including:

Wear plastic pipes. There is a high probability of basement flooding and damage to the parquet boards.
Problematic temperature control.
The floor will be raised ten centimeters.
It is necessary to have your own boiler room.

There are also a number of rules when installing parquet boards on a heating system. Firstly, installation is carried out only using the floating method, using plywood as a substrate. Secondly, the parquet board should not heat up to 30 degrees or higher. If this happens, the tree will become unusable.

You can lay a parquet board on a heated floor system yourself, but to do this you need to carefully study the work algorithm, and if you have doubts about your abilities, it is better to turn to specialists.

Installation technology

Let's take infrared heated floors as an example, since this new product is easiest to install with your own hands in city apartments and country houses.

The step-by-step instructions assume that installation is carried out on a prepared concrete or wooden base; it must be level, clean and dry. Differences should be checked with a building level; they should not exceed 2 mm.

For a concrete floor, grinding will have to be done, and for a wooden floor, sanding will have to be done. It is very important to clean the surface after completing work using a vacuum cleaner and broom.

Next, you need to protect the heating system from the actions of the concrete base; for this, a base layer is laid. Polyethylene acts as waterproofing and thermal insulation. It is important to mark out the infrared floor system and find a place for the sensor and thermostat. He is responsible for setting the temperature. Infrared mats are mounted with the film down and secured to each other using adhesive tape. Bitumen insulation protects products from the external environment.

After all connecting stages, the operation of the heated floor is checked. If heating occurs evenly, then a plywood layer is attached on top. It is on this that the parquet board will subsequently be installed.

Laying solid parquet boards can be done by one person. Modern models with a locking connection, the combination units are easy to install and reliable in operation. It doesn’t matter whether a two-strip or three-strip parquet board will be used, the installation procedure for all products is the same and it has already been discussed in the previous sections.

How to dock?

Unfortunately, parquet boards do not tolerate moisture, and in some rooms it is necessary to make a transition between the boards and tiles or other building materials. Most often, the connection is used in the corridor - in front of the front door, between the corridor and the kitchen, between the bathroom and the corridor.

In studio apartments, country houses and other premises, the joint with tiles without a threshold can be sealed with sealant and liquid stopper. It is desirable that the sealant matches the color of one of the building materials.

Remember that colorless sealant is universal and suitable in most cases. Unfortunately, a low-quality substance will quickly become unusable and the repair will have to be redone. It is applied using a gun or syringe.

Liquid cork can be applied even by a non-specialist in this field, since it is a kind of glue. The glue holds two building materials together and does not deform or crumble. It is advisable to apply it after pre-treating the surface with oil. After the glue has dried, it is cut off with a knife. To do this, you can use a construction or stationery knife.

As decorative material Wooden cork, plastic or metal profile can be used. A cork made of wood is installed in the joints before sanding. Main feature this material can be called that it acquires various geometric shapes, and this looks beautiful in most interiors. Another advantage is that the locking connection is not damaged during the operational period.

Metal and plastic profile lay only in a straight line. The profile protrudes above the surface. From a design point of view, this is the worst option. The metal profile, as a rule, has additional holes; screws must be screwed into them.

Remember that you need to work with tiles with a special drill, otherwise they may lose their presentation.

Features of installation to the wall and ceiling

Attaching parquet to the wall and ceiling is another recent trend. In this way, the unity of the interior is achieved, a kind of “box” is obtained. This room is suitable for speaker systems– home cinema, music room and projector room.

You need to attach the parquet board to a special frame; something similar was discussed in one of the sections - laying the floor on joists, only in this case the guides are located on the ceiling and on the walls.

If the sheathing is fixed to the wall, and especially to the ceiling, only with the help of a locking connection, then such a structure will fall apart like a house of cards. This is fraught with injuries and abrasions. Therefore, additional screws are screwed into each parquet board.

The transition between the ceiling and the wall can be left straight, but for elegance, craftsmen recommend bending the parquet board. Using a router, small indentations are made, after which the board “gives in.” The radius is selected by trial and error, but remember that it should be the same on all walls. The finishing is completed with the ceiling.

Common mistakes

Often, the installation of parquet boards begins immediately after its purchase. This is one of the common mistakes. The building material must “get used” to temperature conditions room, its humidity.

Remember that the temperature should not be lower than 18 degrees. The parquet board should lie idle for at least two days.

The subfloor must be leveled; differences of only about 2 mm are permissible. It is best to use concrete expanded clay; it gives the surface not only a leveled appearance, but also thermal insulation and sound absorption. All further actions performed only after 100% drying.

The waterproofing and underlay layer allows the parquet board to be used for a long time without creaking, and if you skimp on them, the result will be the opposite.

It is very important to lay the parquet boards last, but if the room requires wallpapering the walls, then you need to start with them. Remember that after wallpapering, wallpaper releases moisture when it dries, which means that the humidity in the room will be increased.

Wooden base parquet boards are not intended for rooms with high humidity; their indicators must be normal and comply with the recommendations given by manufacturers.

Examples in the interior

In a country house You can use a parquet board to decorate the top floor where the wall meets the roof. Such a smooth transition is achieved due to milling grooves; it is only important not to forget about the screws when fastening. A conventional locking connection will not be able to withstand the own weight of the parquet board.
In studio apartments It is very important not to forget that parquet boards do not tolerate high humidity, and it follows from this that it is advisable to lay them in the kitchen or hallway tiles or moisture-resistant parquet. In this case, docking can be done in any convenient way. In an apartment, such a transition is most often made in the hallway, because if you constantly step on the parquet board with wet shoes, it will become unusable in a short time.