Insulate a balcony with your own hands in old houses. What and how best to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands

Improvement will allow. Additional square meters are never superfluous. Here you can arrange living room, office, small fitness area or winter garden.
Warm contour will relieve dampness and cold. And the space itself will turn into a cozy and beautiful corner of the house.
This reliable protection from drafts. Often the room to which the loggia is adjacent is colder than the others. It will become a kind of buffer between the room and the street. This will ensure a comfortable microclimate in the apartment.

Choosing a method of insulation

The location of the apartment and climatic conditions will help determine how to insulate the room. The south side and the top floor contribute to overheating. On the north side the sun is a rare visitor, so it is much cooler here.

Insulation methods

External insulation. Rigid insulation is installed on the outside. It is covered with a reinforcing mesh, a layer decorative plaster. The benefit is obvious - the interior space of the room is not reduced. However, external work, especially on the upper floors, is complex and time-consuming.
Double-sided thermal insulation. The material is laid outside and inside. The solution is very labor-intensive and impractical. Essentially, you have to do the same job twice. After all, one-sided insulation is quite effective.
Internal insulation. The insulator is placed from the inside, which slightly reduces the usable area. But if you wish, you can do the work yourself.

In practice, the last option is most often chosen, since it is the simplest and most accessible. External thermal insulation is effective, but too difficult to implement.

In addition, in some cases, external insulation may require a decision from the local administration. This happens if the house is classified as an architectural monument. It is good for lower floors.

Choice of insulation

The choice of insulation materials is very wide. To navigate this diversity, you need to know what criteria to use to choose a coating.

Criterias of choice

It is optimal if it is non-hygroscopic or at least with minimal values for this indicator.
Fire safety. Still, no one is immune from emergency situations, so I would like to ensure maximum safety for myself.
Durability is important in order to insulate the room as little as possible.
Another important nuance- material safety. It should not release toxic substances under any circumstances. If the manufacturer warns that this is possible when certain temperatures are exceeded, you should refuse the choice.
Biostability makes the material a reliable barrier against the formation of microorganisms and mold that are dangerous and harmful to human health.

All insulators are divided into several groups.

Roll insulation

Loose coatings produced in the form of rolled strips. For the most part, these are various wools: slag, mineral, glass. Before installation, they are cut and mounted into a prepared frame. Due to their loose structure, they can become deformed over time, losing their insulating properties. A significant plus is the low price.

Among the roll coatings there are thin foil materials, for example, penofol. They are used as an addition to the main insulation. The metallized coating reflects heat waves and prevents them from leaving the room.

Slab

Dense plates of various thicknesses. This group includes very different insulators. These are expanded polystyrene, penoplex, etc. They are easy to install and do not deform during operation.

Sprayable

Liquid polyurethane foam is applied to the base using special equipment. After it hardens, a seamless insulating layer is formed. Ecowool is laid in almost the same way using the wet method. Both insulators have minimal thermal conductivity and last for decades. The main disadvantage is the need to use special tools for installation.

Insulation instructions in 3 steps

The progress of work is determined by the condition of the premises. Before you insulate the loggia from the inside with your own hands, start with glazing - you need to install energy-efficient ones. At this stage, parapet laying work may be required. The new glazing will look more aesthetically pleasing, but it will only be a couple of degrees warmer here compared to the street.

The fact is that this space, by definition, is non-residential. This means that the walls, floor and ceiling are not able to fully conserve heat. And you need to decide how to heat the room. This can be infrared or electric heated floor. It is possible to install a heater.

Preparatory work

They start with preparation. Remove old coverings from the floor, walls and ceiling. Clean the vacant surfaces. They are examined carefully. All cracks, chips and other defects will have to be removed. They are carefully sealed with putty mixture, allowed to dry completely, and cleaned.

The joints are carefully sealed. Most inexpensive thermal insulators are hygroscopic. The moisture that gets into them accumulates and gradually destroys them and the finish. Therefore, waterproofing is necessary. The joints are glued with a special tape or coated with mastic. After this, all internal surfaces are treated with a hydrophobic and antifungal composition.

Work on laying thermal insulation is usually carried out according to the top-down principle. Let's analyze all the stages in more detail.

Ceiling insulation

The technology depends on the type of insulation, cladding, etc. In general terms, the installation instructions look like this:

We assemble the sheathing. To make it, we take a beam or a metal profile. The latter is most often chosen for subsequent installation of drywall. We fix the slats to the ceiling along the perimeter. Then we lay the timber in increments of 0.6 m.
Checking the horizontal position. Take a level and determine the plane. It must be set very accurately. Otherwise, the ceiling will turn out uneven. We correct any defects found.
We cut the heat insulator. It can be rolled or slab. In any case, we cut the fragments so that they are 3-4 mm larger than the sheathing. This way the material will lie tightly, without cold bridges. It will be better held in the structure.
Put the insulation in place. You can additionally secure the plates with suitable glue. If any cracks have formed, carefully fill them with foam.

Then you can lay a layer of penofol with the foil side down. This way it will reflect heat waves back. After this, installation of the finishing begins. This is only one of the possible options for laying thermal insulation.

For hard slabs, a slightly different technique is used. We glue the plates onto the base special glue. It is applied pointwise in the corners and center. After gluing, we additionally fix the slabs with mushroom dowels. And then we fix the penofol. We lay it with the foil layer down and seal the joints with tape.

On top of the insulation we assemble a lathing made of metal profiles or beams, onto which we will then attach the finishing trim.

Wall insulation

One of the simplest options would be to insulate the loggia with penoplex. These are moisture-resistant boards with low thermal conductivity. High density and low weight make them much easier to install. You can choose any other suitable material. Rigid slabs are installed without sheathing, but most often it is installed. We offer step-by-step instructions for the process.

We lay and fix thin foil polyethylene foam to the base. It will perform two functions at once: it will serve as additional waterproofing and will reflect heat rays, preventing them from leaving the room. The foil layer should “look” inward.
We install a sheathing made of wooden blocks or metal profiles. The pitch of the lamellas is not 60-70 cm. We try to choose a value that is a multiple of the width of the insulation.
We cut insulation. We cut out the parts slightly larger than the cells of the sheathing so that they fit tightly into it.
We put insulation in the cells. We foam all the resulting cracks. We also foam the reverse side of the metal profile, where there are voids. Otherwise, cold bridges will remain, which will lead to the formation of condensation and gradual deterioration of the insulation.
We install a vapor barrier. This is a thin film with small holes. We glue its joints with tape. We fix the membrane with staples.

After this you can start decorative finishing. A wooden or metal sheathing is mounted on the walls and ceiling, to which a lining is attached. You can use wallpaper or paint as a finishing touch. In this case, additional work will be required. Sheets of moisture-resistant plasterboard are fixed to the sheathing. They are primed, puttied, leveled and then wallpapered or painted.

Considering that simple fastening of the vapor barrier is not reliable enough, “mushroom” dowels are additionally installed. This is what they call fasteners with wide heads. You need five of them for each slab: in the corners and in the center.

The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier. To do this, it is recommended to use vapor barrier films or foiled polyethylene foam. It will work as steam, hydro and additional thermal insulation. The foil side is turned into the room.

The vapor barrier is secured using polyurethane glue or at Double-sided tape. The seams between vapor barrier sheets and joints with structures are taped with metallized tape. The finishing decor is mounted on top.

Insulating the floor on the loggia

Any heat insulator is chosen, sometimes expanded clay is used. This bulk material with relatively low weight. A lot of it is required, so for balconies in old houses it is better to choose a different solution. The load on the slab may be too great. performed between the joists. This is done like this:

Before installing the slabs, all holes and cracks are sealed with mounting foam, and then the surface is leveled, for example, using self-leveling cement-sand mixtures. If there is a danger of water penetrating through the floor “pie”, then before leveling it is possible to apply a layer of coating waterproofing(cement based, etc.).
We install a layer of waterproofing. You can choose a special mastic or lay down a film. In any case, we especially carefully insulate the joints of the floor and walls. The joints of the strips should be properly overlapped and secured with tape.
We expose lags. We cut the wooden blocks to size and place them on the base. Be sure to level the top edge of each part. Otherwise the floor will be uneven. We fix the logs to the base metal corners or in any other way.
We cut the heat insulator if necessary. Place it in the cells between the joists. We compact the coating so that there are no voids. The cracks can be foamed.
We lay a layer of vapor barrier. This is a thin film with small holes. We glue its joints with tape. We fix the membrane with staples.
Laying the subfloor. We screw it to the joists with self-tapping screws.

After this, you can finish the insulated room. To make everything clear, we suggest watching a video about insulating a loggia with your own hands.

It is much easier and faster to insulate the structure with polyurethane foam or ecowool. They are sprayed evenly on all surfaces. Form a dense, seamless insulating coating. Considering the size of the room, the whole process takes literally a few minutes. Unfortunately, you cannot do the work yourself. Requires special equipment. Therefore, such insulation may be too expensive.

Creating a favorable microclimate on the loggia involves not only insulating the walls, the entire space must be airtight. Floor and ceiling surfaces are also sheathed with material with a low degree of thermal conductivity. In our article you will learn how to properly insulate a balcony from the inside.

self-insulation(personal experience)
. The most useful things from youtube
Using the example of Moscow

Selecting a thermal insulator

Advantages and disadvantages are inherent to each type of thermal insulation. In order to choose the most suitable insulation, you should compare the main characteristics of heat insulators.

The most common thermal insulator options:

Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex);
Foamed polyethylene (penofol);
Polyurethane foam (PPU);
Styrofoam;
Mineral wool.

Mineral wool

The thickness of the sheets varies from 2 to 20 cm. Mineral wool is divided into three types, depending on the components of the raw material:

Stone;
Slag;
Glass.

An example of installing mineral wool on a loggia. The material is placed into the prepared structure. The mounting frame can be made of metal profiles, or wooden blocks.

Manufacturers produce cotton wool in the form of mats and soft rolls. In some cases, one side is covered with foil. Aluminum foil improves the level of thermal insulation.

When laying mineral wool, the foil side should be directed inside the room. This principle allows heat to be reflected from the aluminum coating and returned to the room.

This method is quite common, despite the existence of cheaper heat insulators. The insulation is resistant to fire and does not contribute to its spread. When mineral wool is heated, no harmful substances are released into the air.

The main disadvantage is that moisture is destructive; a vapor barrier is required.

Please pay attention to the integrity of the mineral wool packaging before purchasing. Moisture negatively affects the properties of the heat insulator. For high-quality insulation, it is necessary that the loggia space be dry.

Polymer-based insulation

Penoplex, polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, foamed polyethylene are polymers treated with foam compounds.

Advantages:

The presence of gas bubbles provides not only a good level of thermal insulation, but also light weight of the slabs;
High degree of moisture resistance;
The materials are durable;
Antifungal resistance;
Simplicity and convenience when laying slabs or sheets, as well as rolls (foamed polyethylene);
An economical repair option, provided you choose polystyrene foam as insulation.

Main disadvantage: support the spread of flame during a fire and release harmful substances during the combustion process.

When choosing polystyrene foam and other polymer-based materials, it is necessary to correctly select the thickness of the slabs and determine the density

If planned winter operation space, in this case choose a thickness of 50 mm. The density is determined by further coating - for putty, a value of 25 kg/cube is suitable. m.

1. Foam sheets

Insulator slabs (expanded polystyrene) during installation.

Foam plastic refers to budget ways insulation of the loggia, however, it is considered a rather fragile material, so lathing is required for installation. A worthy replacement is extruded polystyrene foam; its installation does not require the creation of a special frame.

2. Penoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam boards (50 mm thick) are used as insulation. The seams between the elements are sealed with polyurethane foam. Penoplex is attached using special disc-shaped dowels (“fungi”).

3. Penofol

The material is used as a separate heat insulator; foam polystyrene foam can also be used to provide vapor barrier. Due to the foil side, warm air is reflected and retained in the room.

In order to speed up the insulation of the structure, you can use an alternative method of thermal insulation - spraying polyurethane foam (PPU).

4. Polyurethane foam

PPU is one of the most modern thermal insulators. The cost of application services is considered high compared to other analogues, but many have managed to appreciate operational properties PPU. This insulation is characterized by high thermal insulation rates due to its fine-porous structure.

Spraying of polyurethane foam is carried out by specialists at installation work One day is enough; it also doesn’t take much time to dry completely.

The main stages of work on insulating the loggia space

In order to increase the usable area in your home and exploit the premises all year round necessary:

1. Seal gaps, if any. Carefully examine the room to eliminate all design flaws. As a rule, cracks are filled with polyurethane foam, even if they are large.

After complete drying, it is necessary to trim off the excess.

2. Glazing with reliable double-glazed windows.

3. Organize a waterproofing layer. To protect against moisture, waterproofing with penetrating properties is used - “Penetron”, “Aquaton”, etc. The composition is applied with a roller, brush, or spray. This impregnation penetrates into the thickness, so the walls become as resistant to adverse weather as possible and their strength characteristics improve.

The installation of a waterproofing layer allows you to eliminate the most minor surface cracks that may not be visually visible.

4. Thermal insulation layer. For organization warm design We use the selected material (polyurethane foam, penoplex, polyethylene foam, polystyrene foam, etc.).

5. Installation of a vapor barrier layer. In order to make a vapor barrier, you should use special polymer membranes(“breathable”), as well as films “Rockwool”, “Izospan”, penofol.

When using penofol, lay the insulation so that the side covered with foil is directed into the room. Subject to this condition, heat will constantly be reflected from the foil, lingering inside the space.

6. Final finishing of walls, floor surfaces and ceilings.

A detailed description of each stage can be found in the article: .

Balcony room decoration

Purposes of creation interior decoration:

External masking of the heat insulator;
Organization of a favorable indoor environment.

To create a balcony interior, you can choose various options finishing. Plaster, plastic panels, MDF, lining, plywood, gypsum board sheets and even a block house are perfect for the finishing layer.

Lining panels are environmentally friendly and reliable. One of the main advantages of the finishing material is rigidity. The lining is fixed to a wooden frame-crate.

The walls of the loggia are covered with clapboard, flooring- laminate.

Facing the balcony with a block house.

The plastic panels have grooves for connecting elements. The plastic version of the lining has less rigidity and strength than wood.

Installation of gypsum board sheets on metal profiles. Plasterboard slabs can be decorated with wallpaper, painted, or covered with decorative plaster.

Decorating walls with wallpaper over gypsum board sheets.

Bamboo wallpaper. The basis for finishing is plasterboard.

Video

1. The result of insulating the loggia.

Glazed balcony. Demonstration electrical terminals. Testing the strength of extruded polystyrene foam. Use of penoplex with a thickness of 30 and 50 mm, finishing the walls with putty. Concrete floor screed over insulation slabs.

2. Stages of repair work on the balcony.

Consistent process of arranging a room. Scheme of thermal insulation of walls with polystyrene foam and foamed polyethylene, finishing - plastic panels. Floor: leveling, thermal insulation, cladding OSB board, installation of laminate lamellas.

This material should be of interest to all apartment owners who have a separate balcony or loggia. In this article I want to talk about how simply insulating a balcony with your own hands will help make it a full-fledged part of your apartment. If you are tired of using your balcony exclusively for storing old unnecessary things, read the article and find out how to properly insulate it.

What is the difference between a balcony and a loggia

To avoid any confusion in the future, I first want to explain the difference between a loggia and a balcony:

The balcony always extends forward, beyond vertical walls building. Interfloor concrete slabs, which are cantilevered to the façade of the house, serve as the floor and ceiling of the balconies. Vertical fencing (parapet) is usually made in the form of a welded metal structure, which is installed in front and on the sides of the balcony;

The loggia is always recessed into the façade. Structurally, it is a continuation of the living space, but is separated from it by a capital outer wall With balcony door. The floor and ceiling for the loggia are interfloor ceilings, and the side walls are made of monolithic concrete or brickwork. The parapet on the loggia is installed only along the front part, and can be made of welded metal or lightweight building materials(foam concrete blocks, hollow bricks, etc.).

Why do you need to insulate a loggia?

In old multi-storey buildings, apartments with balconies and loggias were rented to residents without any glazing. This means that snow and rain can freely fall there, and the air temperature throughout the year remains the same as outside.

Apartments in modern new buildings, most often rented with glazed balconies. Glazing helps protect it from rain and snow, but does not protect it from cold, wind and dampness. Therefore, the temperature and humidity on a glazed but uninsulated balcony are not very different from the weather outside.

I can tell from personal experience that simultaneous glazing and insulation of balconies with your own hands allows you to solve several housing issues at once:

An insulated and glazed loggia can be used not just as a storage room for unnecessary rubbish, but as a full-fledged room in your apartment. Moreover, when paying utilities, you still pay for it as for living space;

When electricity and central heating are supplied, it can be equipped with a study room, a small home workshop, or a children’s room. game room, and even your own greenhouse or winter garden;
If you want to increase the usable area of your living room or bedroom, and are ready to sacrifice a balcony for this, then I suggest doing the following:

First of all, we insulate the balcony with high quality and install a panoramic window with double-glazed windows;
Next, we bring the centralized or heating system from the apartment;
Dismantling the old one window unit and a balcony door;
Now all that remains is to combine your room and balcony into a single living space.

The following proposal should be of interest to owners of one-room apartments.

If the layout of your house allows, then due to the balcony or loggia, one-room apartment easy to convert into a two-room apartment:

First of all, you need to carefully insulate the loggia and install double-glazed windows;
Then install heating, sewerage and water supply pipes on the loggia;
Install a sink, plumbing fixtures and a minimum set of kitchen appliances;
IN former kitchen equip a living room, children's room or.

Even if you do not plan to convert the balcony into a living room, its insulation will help to significantly reduce heat losses in your apartment. Firstly, this will make the house much warmer in winter, and secondly, it will reduce monthly heating and air conditioning costs.

Selection of thermal insulation materials

To insulate balconies, it is best to use hard heat insulating materials on polymer based, or roll insulation based on mineral wool.

Both insulation materials have their advantages and disadvantages, so below I will talk about their main qualities in more detail:

Polystyrene foam is a rigid sheet insulation material made from polystyrene foam granules welded together.

It is characterized by the following characteristics:

Sheets construction foam usually have a size of 1000x1000 mm, and can have a thickness from 10 to 150 mm;
They have sufficient rigidity, have very low thermal conductivity, and are absolutely impervious to air and water vapor;
Foam plastic is considered the cheapest insulation, since its price is about 150-200 rubles per sheet measuring 1000x1000x50 mm.

Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS or Penoplex) has similar performance properties, but has a much higher rigidity:

Penoplex sheets can withstand significant weight loads, so I recommend using it for floor insulation;
EPS and foam are destroyed when exposed to ultraviolet radiation. Therefore, they should not be left in direct sunlight for a long time;
For the same reason, it is advisable to carry out finishing work no later than a week after installing the insulation.

Foil foamed polyethylene (Penofol) is sold in rolls 1000 mm wide and 3 to 12 mm thick. Penofol is most often used as an auxiliary heat and waterproofing material. It is laid in the form of a layer between the main insulation and the internal decorative lining.

Penofol in thermal insulation coating performs three important functions at once:

Foamed polyethylene itself has low thermal conductivity, so it serves as additional insulation;
Thin mirror film aluminum foil reflects the infrared spectrum of thermal radiation, therefore returning radiant heat from the heating radiators back to the loggia;
Polyethylene film does not allow water vapor to pass through at all, so it is warm wet air from the room cannot penetrate into the thickness of the main insulation. This protects it from condensation.

Basalt or stone mineral wool is a soft fibrous insulation that is made from intertwined thin fibers of molten rocks.

Basalt wool is considered a universal type of insulation, since it has practically no restrictions on its use in construction:

Mineral wool is sold in rolls or in the form of rigid slabs with a thickness of 20 to 100 mm;
It has a low heat transfer coefficient, does not burn at all, is not susceptible to mold, and has an unlimited service life;
Stone wool allows air and water vapor to pass through well, but when wet, its thermal insulation properties deteriorate significantly;
To prevent the formation of condensation inside the insulation, mineral wool must be installed in combination with a waterproofing layer.

In addition to stone wool, glass wool is also commercially available, which is made from thin strands of molten glass. Its fibers are very fragile and break easily, so after creasing, such cotton wool does not restore its shape. I do not recommend using it for insulating residential premises, because small glass fibers can penetrate human skin and cause severe irritation.

Preparing tools

To insulate a balcony with your own hands, you can get by with the usual set of household tools:

To drill holes in concrete you will need electric hammer drill and a set of drills with a diameter of 6 to 12 mm;
Holes in brick walls can be drilled using impact drill. To do this, you will need a set of drills with a Pobedit tip with a diameter of 6-12 mm;
You will need to tighten it during operation. a large number of self-tapping screws Therefore, I recommend using a cordless screwdriver with PH2 and PZ2 interchangeable bits;
It is more convenient to cut the bars for installing the sheathing using an electric cutting machine, but if you don’t have one, you can use a regular hand hacksaw for wood;

For cutting insulation and slicing cladding panels, you will need sharp construction knife with a set of replaceable blades;
As for hand tools, you will also need two hammers weighing 200 g and 400 g;
Two flat and one shaped screwdriver;
Small and large pliers or pliers;
Construction level, rope plumb line, metal ruler and tape measure at least 3 m long;
Polyurethane foam in large metal containers;
In addition to insulation, the materials you need to purchase are dry wooden blocks for the manufacture of a load-bearing structure with a cross-section of 60x60 mm;

Adhesive for insulation. It is sold as dry construction mixture, and is prepared directly at the place of work;
Wide aluminum metallized tape for ventilation systems;
Plastic dowels with wide washers for attaching insulation. People often call them umbrellas or parachutes;
Depending on your preferences, for the interior decoration of the balcony you can use moisture-resistant plasterboard, plastic siding panels or clapboard boards. In my opinion, plastic siding is best suited for these purposes..

At night and during the day, on the insulated balcony there can be observed significant differences air temperature, which in turn can lead to the formation of condensation on the walls and ceiling. Therefore, for interior finishing it is allowed to use only moisture-resistant and frost-resistant materials.

Insulation process

Stage 1: strengthening the balcony parapet

Insulating a balcony from the inside should begin with installing windows, but in some cases this may cause problems. During construction multi-storey buildings, balcony parapets are usually made in the form light metal fence welded from a corner and a steel square. It is unsafe to install heavy double-chamber balcony glazing on such a parapet, so before installing new windows, it needs to be strengthened.

I can suggest three ways to strengthen the parapet:

To strengthen a strong and reliable balcony railing in new houses, you can use a simpler method:

Along the entire perimeter of the parapet, weld additional longitudinal beams from profile pipe with a section of 40x20 mm, or from a steel angle with a section of 40x40 mm;
Weld brackets with mounting plates made of steel with a thickness of at least 4 mm to the longitudinal beams on each side. Each plate should have two holes with a diameter of 12 mm;
The existing metal structure is additionally secured to several points concrete slab ceilings, as well as to the facade of the building or to the side walls of the loggia. For fastening you need to use expansion anchor bolts;
Tie all the metal rods of the railing together with a truss structure made from a reinforcing bar with a diameter of 12 mm, or a profile pipe 20x20 mm. Weld the extreme ends of the truss to the mounting brackets;
After installing the glazing, the outside of the parapet can be covered with decorative plastic siding panels.

In old houses built during the Soviet period, the parapet may be unreliable and very flimsy.

From inside the balcony, build a new parapet from foam concrete blocks or hollow baked bricks;
In places where the new parapet adjoins the facade of the house or the side walls of the loggia, install anchor embedded structures, at least 3 pieces. by height;
Attach a common railing from a wide board 35-40 mm thick on top. It must completely cover both parapets, and protrude outward and inward of the balcony by at least 50 mm on each side;
An old metal fence, covered with plastic siding panels on the outside for beauty.

If the fencing of your balcony is in disrepair, it is better to immediately dismantle it and install a new parapet in its place.

To do this you can use the following method:

Along the perimeter of the balcony floor slab, lay a new parapet made of hollow bricks or foam concrete blocks;
After each row of foam concrete blocks, or after every third row of bricks, along the entire perimeter of the parapet, reinforcing strapping made of metal mesh must be laid into the masonry;
The free ends of the strapping must be welded to the anchor brackets on the facade of the house or on the side walls of the loggia;
Fix a wide railing board on top of the end of the parapet so that it protrudes outside and inside the balcony by about 50 mm;
The outside of the brick parapet must be plastered using reinforcing fiberglass mesh and painted with acrylic facade paint in any suitable color.

Installation of metal-plastic double-glazed windows requires certain knowledge and practical skills, so I recommend entrusting such work to qualified specialists in this matter. Firstly, it is more reliable and safe, and secondly, they provide a guarantee for their work. In addition, when ordering windows with installation, you can get a discount on installation work.

Stage 2: installation of flooring

Balcony floor slabs usually have a small thickness, so before installing the finished floor covering, it must be properly insulated.

Floor insulation can be done with foam panels, sheets of extruded polystyrene foam or mineral wool slabs.

The general principle of using these materials is approximately the same, so I will tell you how to do this using foam sheets as an example:

The concrete floor slab must be cleaned of construction waste, dry well and cover with two layers of heated rubber-bitumen mastic;

If you use mineral wool as insulation, then for waterproofing you need to lay a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane or perforated polyethylene film on the slab;
Along the balcony, fasten wooden blocks (joists) with a cross-section of at least 60x60 mm to the floor. The outer bars must be laid close to the parapet and the wall in the apartment, and a distance of 300-400 mm must be maintained between the middle bars;

In the spaces between the bars, lay foam panels tightly without gaps. If there are small gaps between the foam sheets, they need to be filled with polyurethane foam;
Lay waterproofing made of foil foamed polyethylene (Penofol) on top of the insulation and longitudinal beams;

Penofol must be laid so that its foil side faces up, and its edges should bend onto the side walls, 60-100 mm on each side;
To ensure a ventilation gap between the finished floor and Penofol, wooden counter slats with a thickness of 15-20 mm must be nailed to the longitudinal bars;
A finished floor covering can be installed on top of the counter slats. For arrangement wooden floor on the balcony, you need to use tongue and groove floorboard 40 mm thick.
The floorboards need to be laid across the balcony and secured to the joists using galvanized self-tapping screws.

If you want to lay linoleum or laminate on the balcony, then first you need to arrange the subfloor. To do this, sheets of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB with a thickness of at least 20 mm must be secured to the longitudinal bars. After this, the subfloor must be sanded and a finishing floor covering laid.

Stage 3: Thermal insulation of the parapet and side walls

For normal thermal insulation of a balcony and loggia, it is very important to properly insulate the parapet and side walls, because they are in direct contact with cold air from the street. The solid wall between the apartment and the loggia does not need to be insulated so that it can freely transmit heat from the heated room to the loggia.

Below is step-by-step instruction, in which I will talk about insulating walls and balcony parapets using polystyrene foam and mineral wool:

Before starting work, all concrete and brick surfaces must be treated with an antiseptic penetrating primer. It fills the open pores between the particles of the material and protects the wall from the formation of mold under the insulation;

Mount a supporting frame on the wall to secure the finishing interior cladding. It is made in the form of a lathing from vertical bars with a section of 60x60 or 75x75 mm.
On the walls, the bars should be placed vertically, from the floor to the ceiling. The outer bars are installed at the corners of the balcony, and the intermediate ones are attached to the side walls, at a distance of 300-400 mm from each other.
It is more convenient to make the supporting frame for the parapet from three or four horizontal bars. The lower beam must be secured to the parapet at floor level, and the upper beam must be secured under the railing board. Mount one or two intermediate beams at an equal distance between the upper and lower beams;

When making a supporting frame, I advise you to lay electrical cables, heating pipes or other hidden communications along the walls in advance;
If you plan to insulate your balcony with polystyrene foam, then it needs to be cut into separate slabs. The width of each tile should be such that it fits tightly between two adjacent bars of the supporting frame;
Next you need to prepare the adhesive solution. Apply several large dots of glue onto a sheet of foam plastic and press it against the wall in the space between the frame bars;
Thus, you need to glue foam plastic to all walls and the balcony parapet. If large gaps and cracks remain in some places, they must be filled with foam.;

Insulating walls with mineral wool has some differences:

Before installing the supporting frame, waterproofing must be fixed to the wall from a vapor-permeable membrane;
To attach mineral wool, you need to use plastic dowels instead of glue., better known as "umbrellas".

After installing the foam or mineral wool, you need to attach Penofol to the wooden blocks with the foil side inside the balcony. To do this, it is convenient to use a furniture or construction stapler;
Wooden counter slats with a thickness of 20 mm must be fixed on top of the Penofol. They will be used to fasten the internal lining;

If you plan to use plasterboard to finish the walls and ceiling, then the counter slats should be mounted vertically, parallel to the sheathing bars;
For installation of lining boards or plastic siding, the counter rails must be positioned horizontally, in four or five rows. The distance between them should be no more than 500 mm;
To complete everything, you will need to finish the walls and parapet, and install a wooden or plastic plinth at the junction of each wall and floor.

When making a supporting frame for finishing sheathing, some craftsmen use a metal profile for drywall. At first glance, this option may seem simpler, but I do not recommend doing so. The fact is that metal has a higher thermal conductivity than wood, therefore, at the installation site of metal profiles, cold bridges are formed in the wall. They worsen the thermal insulation of the balcony and can cause condensation to form in the insulation layer.

Stage 4: insulation of the ceiling

If you plan to install a separate heating system on the balcony, then we must not forget that warm air from the radiators always rushes upward. In order not to heat the neighbor’s balcony from the top floor, I advise you to devote Special attention thermal insulation ceiling.

The gap between the canopy and the floor slab must be filled with foam.

The concrete slab should be treated twice with a water-based antiseptic penetrating primer.;
Before installation thermal insulation material, a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane must be fixed to the ceiling. It is needed to prevent moisture from the ceiling from penetrating into the insulation;
Fix longitudinal wooden blocks with a cross-section of 60x60 mm on top of the waterproofing. The two outer bars should be located in the very corners of the ceiling, and intermediate bars should be installed between them in increments of 300-400 mm;

The insulation, cut to width, must be laid between the bars. It cannot be glued to the waterproof membrane, so for fastening you need to use plastic “umbrella” dowels;
To fill the gaps between polystyrene foam boards, you should also use polyurethane foam;
If warm, humid air from the room gets inside the insulation, condensation will form there. To prevent this from happening, a vapor barrier made of foil foamed polyethylene must be nailed to the bars on top of the insulation;
Penofol must be attached to the ceiling in such a way that its edges fall onto each wall by at least 80-100 mm;

To ensure the tightness of the vapor barrier, all joints of panels and mounting brackets from a stapler, you need to glue it with metallized aluminum tape;
Further fine finishing ceiling is performed in exactly the same way as described in the previous section (points 11-14):

Nail longitudinal or transverse counter slats to the ceiling bars;
Attach the finishing decorative sheathing (plasterboard, lining or siding panels) from below;
Carefully trim the hanging remains of Penofol;
Install a decorative cornice or plinth along the perimeter of the ceiling.

Even with full compliance with insulation technology, inside thermal insulation lining Condensation may form. To protect wood from rotting and mold, it is important to follow two simple rules. First of all, everything wooden parts must be treated before installation antiseptic impregnation. Secondly, between finishing cladding and insulation, always leave a ventilation gap 15-20 mm wide.

Conclusion

After reading this article, you can easily insulate any balcony or loggia in a city apartment yourself. A visual guide to insulating balconies can be seen in the video in this article. I suggest discussing all your questions and wishes below in the comment form.

Using the balcony all year round will increase the usable area of the apartment. Creating a comfortable microclimate is possible if you take into account the rules and recommendations of experts on insulating a balcony with your own hands. In our article we will look at the repair using the example of a loggia with the following dimensions: 7.5 m in length, 1.16 in width and 2.9 in height. Step-by-step instructions and photographs in progress. The renovation took 2 weeks, the budget was 40 thousand rubles, the year of construction was 2013.

Using the example of Moscow
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Necessary tool

Screwdriver and electric drill;
Construction stapler, level;
Scissors, knife;
Marker, laser tape measure;
Hammer;
Putty knife;
Gas-burner;
A special gun for glue or polyurethane foam;
Containers for mixing components;
Scotch tape (painting and reinforced);
Rags, sponges, etc.;
Drill attachments that can be used to stir construction mixtures.

Materials (what to buy)

Structures for glazing of premises;
Material for organizing the waterproofing layer (foamed polyethylene);
Insulation (mineral wool 70 mm thick);
Wooden logs to level the floor and create a reliable foundation (50x50);
Sheets of plywood (10 mm);
Glue, metal tape;
Tile for wall cladding in two shades;
Laminate (thickness 12 mm).

Insulation instructions using a live example

Let's consider a simple repair option that most apartment owners resort to:

1. Preparing the balcony before renovation

On the eve of glazing, you need to carefully check the space and eliminate chips, cracks and gaps.

Depending on the size of the flaw, polyurethane mastic, polyurethane foam, and sealants are used. To organize a convenient seal, use a special gun designed for applying polyurethane foam.

The space is insulated with double-glazed windows made from PVC profiles.

Glazing a loggia, or replacing old windows with new double-glazed windows is a mandatory stage of work to protect the space from heat loss.

Other materials for glazing are also used: wood, aluminum and metal-plastic. Elements of window frames must be treated with paint and antiseptic substances. The wooden structure of the windows is not airtight, has a low level of thermal insulation and an inconvenient opening mechanism. Aluminum windows are a durable option, they are comfortable and reliable, but the level of heat loss is quite high.

It's better to give preference window frames PVC, which also contains aluminum, but the internal formwork does not consist of metal.

PVC windows are resistant to moisture and sudden temperature changes. Such frames are easy to use, sealed and have a low level of thermal conductivity.

Masking cables in the wall for connecting an air conditioner.

2. Raising the floor level and thermal insulation

Waterproofing the floor with penofol.

Most often, the materials at the base of the floor and walls are concrete and brick, which strongly absorb moisture and vapor. In order for the heat insulator to retain its properties, a waterproofing layer should be installed. Instead of penofol for waterproofing, you can choose roofing felt or special impregnation. Penofol is laid overlapping, the sheets are connected to each other using a gas burner.

Creating a frame from slats (50x50).

Floor lathing for subsequent installation of mineral wool.

Wooden logs are used for the construction of the sheathing. The frame elements are fixed together with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver. The pitch of the slats directly depends on the thermal insulation material.

Typically, the distance between the slats is 50 cm, however, to lay a soft heat insulator, the pitch of the frame elements should be reduced.

In order to eliminate cold bridges in the structure, you need to carefully organize thermal insulation around the perimeter. We place mineral wool between the elements of the mounted frame. We fill the joints with scraps of heat insulation and polyurethane foam.

Mineral wool laid in the cells of the sheathing on the floor.

During the work, a mistake was made - due to the different dimensions of the heat insulator (70 mm) and the height of the bars (50 mm), spacers had to be made.

Raising the floor to the threshold level - 20 cm.

Installation of plywood sheets on the sheathing frame.

When laying, the plywood sagged 10 mm, so it is better to choose more durable sheets, for example 20 mm chipboard or OSB.

3. Insulation of walls and installation of window sills

We begin the construction of a frame to create a window sill from metal elements. This frame will allow you to insulate a parapet made of gas blocks.

We do the electrical installation for lamps and other devices in advance.

We fill the metal frame with insulation, after which we sheathe the gypsum board structure.

Proper insulation of the parapet on the advice of experts:

Impregnation with special hydrophobic solutions;
Fixing penofol using construction stapler, aluminum tape or glue;
Filling joints;
Installation of the second layer of thermal insulation;
Vapor barrier. A special membrane is suitable for organizing the layer.

Then we protect the other walls of the room from body loss. For creating reliable design glazing the loggia, insulating the parapet and floor are not enough. Basically, a balcony parapet is made from a material with good strength and thermal insulation (foam blocks, gas blocks), but such a fence does not protect the insulation from moisture.

Mineral wool was also chosen for thermal insulation of other walls.

In addition to mineral wool, other types of insulation will also fit in its place: extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex), foil-coated polyethylene (penofol), polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam (PPU). The basis of all of the listed heat insulators are polymers, which are treated with foam compounds.

The insulated parapet is sheathed with gypsum boards.

Covering the gypsum board base with ceramic tiles.

We ensure the evenness of the tile laying using special elements - crosses.

Alternative types of finishing are: PVC panels, wooden lining, wallpaper, block house.

In this example, the ceiling surface was not insulated. On the one hand, the apartment is located on an intermediate floor (11 out of 19) and there is no direct threat of exposure to precipitation, however, heat loss will occur through the floor slab, even if the neighbors above have a well-insulated floor.

If we are talking about insulating the loggia of the upper floor, in this case ceiling slab floors can be protected by installing a roof. The canopy is constructed with a slope to allow rainwater and snow to drain away.

4. Installation and connection of sockets

We install a socket with a light control function.

To install a socket in the wall, you need to drill a hole.

5. Finishing the room

We cover the floor with laminate and the walls with tiles. Flush joining was not successful as a result of the work.

In order to compensate for the deflection of thin plywood, we choose a laminate with a thickness of 12 mm.

Repair shortcomings in real example- lack of finishing coating.

A small piece of ceramic tile is missing.

There were also not enough tiles.

In this corner with finishing flaws, a cabinet is planned, which should hide most visible defects.

In order to avoid a shortage of material, you should think about everything in as much detail as possible on the eve of work, drawing up a diagram according to actual sizes premises. It is better to purchase the material with some reserve.

We decorate the window sill with ceramic tiles.

Installation of plinth on the loggia.

Trimming the threshold with tiles.

When raising the floor to the level of the threshold, it is better to use one material in the finishing, so the surfaces will be more harmoniously combined with each other.

During the repair process, a gap formed between the window sill and the glazing structure, to eliminate which it is necessary to use special internal corners.

The photo shows a sample of the outer corner that was purchased by mistake.

The result of masking the gap with the outer corner.

The room after laying tiles, laminate and creating stretch ceiling black with five spotlights.

In the future, a cabinet will be installed in this part of the balcony.

1. Advice from an experienced specialist

Range of insulators used for forming warm space on the balcony. Peculiarities various insulation materials. Practical recommendations to create a reliable design.

2. Master class on installing a waterproofing layer

Details of installing waterproofing on the balcony. Laying ceramic tiles.

Despite their small size, the comprehensive modernization of these parts of residential buildings is challenging task. To find out how to do it yourself, you need to supplement the step-by-step photo detailed descriptions work operations. Information about modern materials, . It is necessary to find out how the new premises will be equipped. Find the correct answers to these and others practical questions It will be easier after reading this article.

Read in the article

Insulating a balcony with your own hands: step-by-step instructions for preparatory work

In domestic climatic conditions, open balconies can be fully used for no more than a few months a year. They are blown by cold winds, filled with rain and covered with snow. After the implementation of the project necessary protection will be created. Even when choosing economical option the insulation characteristics of the property will improve and costs will decrease. After deep modernization, you can actually increase your living space at relatively low cost.

Preventing Mistakes

Some important details should be noted at the beginning to avoid making wrong decisions:

Excessive “frugality” can subsequently transform into additional expenses. If you install cheap frames without, or use insufficient quality and finishing materials, the desired result will not be obtained. Subsequent alterations are additional costs.
The wrong choice of technology is also accompanied by troubles. It is necessary to carefully study the nuances of the methods to ensure that they can be realistically reproduced on your own. To carry out the most complex work processes, you can invite specialized specialists.
Standard ones cannot be installed on the balcony. Some municipal governments prohibit changing the color of exterior surfaces, installing frames, or other externally visible changes.

Important! It should be ensured that the project does not violate the requirements of applicable codes and regulations. If such a structure is not officially approved, it will have to be removed at your own expense and a fine will be paid.

Formulation of the problem

After a detailed study of thematic materials, final conclusions will be drawn. But already at the first stage it is necessary to formulate General requirements, note the following important details:

Even a small modernization increases the weight of the structure. It is necessary to take into account the increase in loads on power frame, schedule a specialized inspection. In some situations, a separate engineering calculation will be required.
If it remains door block, it is not necessary to make increased demands on the insulation characteristics of the balcony. Otherwise, they should be no worse than in .
In the new premises they install, home computer network. We need to decide on the equipment of the balcony.
It is advisable here to make the floor the same level as the room, without thresholds or steps.

This figure shows that if desired, you can increase the existing area. But we must remember that such structures significantly increase the load on the building. They must be approved in established by law order, since significant changes to the initial design are expected.

Important! A simple freehand drawing is better than no documentation at all. Based on it, it is easier to prepare a list of components, materials, tools and other necessary products.

How to insulate the floor, walls and ceiling on a balcony: choice of materials

If appropriate opportunities exist, it is better to install insulation on the outside of the walls. This will help move the dew point towards the street. The likelihood of penetration into the main building structures moisture. This will prevent their destruction and mold. The available volume of the balcony will be rationally used.

It is easier to carry out installation operations inside yourself. Therefore, only relevant techniques will be discussed further. To find out how to insulate a balcony with your own hands with detailed step-by-step photos and instructions, you need to correctly decide on.

Image	Name	Advantages	Flaws
	Expanded clay	Low cost; good filling of complex shaped volumes with granules; maintaining integrity over a long service life; non-flammability.	High moisture permeability, which is accompanied by loss of insulating properties.
	Mineral wool	Durability of modern products; resistance to high temperature; high quality butt connections.	Low strength; deterioration of the structure and increase in thermal conductivity when water enters. These materials must be additionally protected from mechanical damage and increased stress.
	Styrofoam	Reasonable prices; ease of processing; smooth outer surface; light weight.	Low strength, flammability. To improve resistance to open flame, special additives are used, but the corresponding materials are more expensive.
	Foamed polystyrene boards	High strength of products with a sufficiently high density; ease of installation; resistance to moisture; durability.	Relatively expensive factory-produced materials from well-known manufacturers. Difficulty filling internal volumes without creating empty spaces.
	Polystyrene formed at a construction site from several liquid components	It has all the advantages of slabs, but in addition it fills all cavities of any shape.	The total cost is higher, since special equipment must be used.
	Foamed polyethylene with a layer of metal foil (penofol)	Small thickness; long-term preservation of good consumer characteristics; moisture resistance.	High price.

For your information! The insulation system will be effective if insulation materials are installed on external wall, floor ceiling.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: step-by-step photos, window installation

Drawing	Description of actions
	Taking into account the characteristics of a particular balcony, they create reliable support for frames If necessary (as in the example picture), install additional metal supports. The production of such products is entrusted to a specialized enterprise.
	It's easier to work with assembled frames. They are installed sequentially. After precise alignment using building level The cracks are filled with construction foam.
	If it is necessary to install double-glazed windows directly on site, beads with seals are inserted carefully. To avoid damaging the fragile plastic, use a wooden hammer and damping pads.
	Next install Wooden frames deteriorate due to weather and natural influences Polymers are used to create swinging and sliding systems, curved and rectangular frames. If necessary, apply coloring and lamination. Article