Fill the floor with soil. Floors on the ground

Floors on the ground

Replacement wooden floors first floor in an old stone house on floors on the ground. Click on the photo to enlarge.

Ground floors are the concrete floor of the first or basement/basement floor, lying “directly on the ground”, i.e. there is no air space between the floor and the ground. Floors on the ground are often made if the house is built on a strip foundation, i.e. the floor is poured between the walls of the tape. It is not recommended to build floors on the ground if the ground level is high.

This floor should be:

warm
impervious to moisture from the soil
relatively durable

Floors on the ground are not load-bearing. Those. their strength is needed to withstand the loads from the finishing flooring, furniture, people and interior partitions. Load-bearing walls with floors and roof continue to stand on strip foundation.

Floors on the ground are a multi-layer structure. Each layer performs a specific function. In this regard, ground floors are similar to a slab foundation.

First, the excess fertile soil layer is removed and the surface is leveled and compacted. Then a pillow is made: coarse sand is poured, leveled and thoroughly compacted. Crushed stone from 10 cm is poured on top and also carefully compacted. A vibrating plate is used to compact the sand/crushed stone cushion; it runs on gasoline. If workers do not have their own vibrating plate, it can be rented (it is inexpensive). Tamping and rolling crushed stone/sand is very important; you should never skimp on it!

A useful feature of crushed stone is that it does not suck moisture from the soil. The evenness of the pillow must be checked with a laser level.

Many developers make the cushion in different ways: some only from sand, some only from crushed stone, some from a layer of sand and then a layer of crushed stone. According to reviews, with proper compaction, all these options work well. Let me remind you that crushed stone and coarse sand are good non-heaving soils.

A thin concrete layer is made on top of the cushion. rough screed 3-5 cm. Its purpose is to create a flat surface for laying waterproofing and insulation. Accordingly, there is no need to spend money on its reinforcement. After the rough screed has hardened, the waterproofing is laid. These can be waterproofing films in two layers or bitumen waterproofing, you need to look at the money and the State Regulations.

Then insulation is laid - extruded polystyrene foam, which is much more durable than ordinary polystyrene foam and can withstand significant loads. Insulation is needed to keep the floors warm, at approximately the same temperature as the air in the room. EPPS also partially performs the function of waterproofing (except for its joints).

It is impossible to compare the insulation of walls and floors based on the ground. In winter, the ground underneath residential building with floors on the ground and an insulated blind area, it has a positive temperature, at least in the European part of Russia. Therefore, 5 cm thick EPS should be sufficient.

Next, a full-fledged concrete screed of 5-10 cm is made on top of the insulation (the thicker it is, the more load it takes). It will hold the finishing floor and partitions; at the same time, it can be considered a heavy heat accumulator (this is a plus), because it is located between the insulation and the room. Unlike a conventional screed over, for example, floor slabs, when screeding floors on the ground, reinforcement (mesh or reinforcement) is required. Usually it is reinforced welded mesh 10x10 cm or 15x15 cm with a wire thickness of 3-6 mm.

The finishing flooring is installed on top of the main screed.

I have described one of the popular flooring designs on the ground, although in fact several of them can be invented. I drew a diagram below:

Here: 1 - main screed (any finishing coating can be laid on it), 2 - EPS, 3 - waterproofing, 4 - rough screed, 5 - crushed stone/sand/crushed stone with sand, 6 - natural soil, 7 - strip foundation, 8 - wall.

Please note that the waterproofing extends onto the tape, i.e. possible moisture from the soil is completely cut off from the room and walls. Also note that the insulation extends onto the tape, i.e., firstly, it partially cuts off the cold coming from the tape, and secondly, it is an expansion joint. But it’s still better to additionally insulate the tape on the outside and the blind area.

An expansion joint is needed if heated floors are used, when the concrete screed can suddenly heat up from the pipes in it and expand. If there are no warm floors, then expansion joint not required.

People often change the design of floors on the ground in order to save money. Someone refuses waterproofing and everything is fine: compacted crushed stone does not suck water up, plus groundwater deep. But it's still risky.

Someone refuses insulation and thereby warms the soil under the house. I would not recommend doing this, with insulation underneath concrete screed heating costs will be lower. I myself have a concrete floor on the ground without insulation, and if I were to do it all over again, I would definitely put in EPS. It's not a matter of heating costs, but more of a matter of comfort; the floor feels cold. If there is a layer of EPS under the concrete, then the temperature of the floor will be almost the same as the air in the room.

The benefits of flooring on the ground must be calculated. It may turn out that it is cheaper to build conventional “hanging” floors.

If you choose floors on the ground, then it is necessary to insulate the base of the foundation, otherwise you will get a cold bridge at the point of contact between the screed and the base of the tape.

With floors on the ground, of course, there is no need to install vents in the strip foundation. But if the foundation is being built and it is not yet clear what will happen - floors or floors on the ground, then it is better to make vents, and then, if it is decided to make floors on the ground, the vents can be laid.

During the construction of country houses and individual houses For year-round residence In order to save money and reduce construction time, projects are chosen that provide for the installation of floors on the ground on the ground floor. Currently, these works are carried out in different ways.

Existing laying schemes

Construction of floors on the ground

In the broad sense of the word, the mentioned options for arranging floors include 3 schemes:

A monolithic slab is formed from reinforced concrete, which is laid on top of load-bearing walls;
The floors are installed on the foundation of the house (a reinforced concrete monolithic slab, poured onto the ground, on which load-bearing walls are laid and the floors are laid out);
The concrete monolith is poured without contact with load-bearing walls. The total load from such a floor is fully absorbed by the ground.

Only the last scheme can rightfully be called the installation of concrete floors on the ground. We will look at it in more detail.

Requirements that installed floors must meet

Floors laid on the ground must:

Ensure the thermal insulation of the facility at a level that ensures optimal heat conservation;
At the facility, it is necessary to ensure the creation of comfortable, from a hygienic point of view, conditions for people;
It is guaranteed to protect the premises of the facility from the penetration of moisture from the soil and radon, which has natural radioactivity;
The arrangement of floors on the ground should minimize the spread of impact noise throughout the structure of the object;
Eliminate the possibility of condensation accumulating inside the equipped structure.

Preparatory work

Any work begins with preparing the workplace. In our case, at the preparation stage, the surface in the place where future floors will be installed is raised to the required height using non-heaving materials. These include any easily compacted soil: ASG, fine crushed stone, sand.

If the groundwater lies deep enough in the area, then it is allowed to use loam or sandy loam. The soil that you previously removed when constructing a well or water closet, installing a septic tank, or excavating the foundation of the main building is perfect (it is prohibited to use black soil and peat).

When installing floors on the ground, it is necessary to carry out layer-by-layer (up to 200 mm) compaction of the fill, for which it is tamped with a preliminary spill of water.

It is not recommended to pour more than 600 mm, because It is physically impossible to compact this layer to the natural density of the soil at the construction site. Therefore, it will shrink. The thicker the layer. The greater its value will be, and the higher the unevenness of subsidence.

The installation of floors on the ground provides for protection from the gas - radon, for which a specially equipped captage is performed, the required thickness of which is ≥ 10 cm. Moreover, particles ≤ 4 mm in the captage layer cannot account for more than 10% of the total volume of the mass.

To prevent possible punching from damaging the installed insulation and waterproofing, a sand cushion is made, the thickness of which should be at least twice the thickness of the crushed stone used.

Main design options

In the construction of individual residential buildings, the most popular are the following types floors on the ground: wooden floors installed on joists, and concrete floors on the ground.

The latter option is cheaper, less labor-intensive and completed in a shorter period of time.

Concrete floors

The design of such a field is a multilayer “pie” consisting of a number of layers:

The base is a preliminary layer, sometimes called “concrete preparation;
Further, the installation of floors on concrete involves the arrangement of layers of waterproofing and gas insulation;
Then comes the thermal insulation layer;
The screed is being installed;
Finish coatings are laid.

The work is carried out in the following sequence.

A layer of waterproofing is laid on the prepared cushion to prevent moisture from filtrating from the freshly laid concrete layer into the ground. For this purpose, a PE film h ≥ 15 mm is quite sufficient. When laying it, it must be taken out of the walls.
Filling floors on the ground involves fixing the edge separator layer along the entire perimeter to a height that exceeds the total height of the floor “pie” by 2.0 - 3.0 cm. It is made from cut strips of insulation, the thickness of which, as a rule, is 2 - 3 cm and prevents direct contact of the poured cake and the load-bearing walls.
From thin grades of concrete (from B7.5 to B10.0) it is carried out concrete preparation(executed in the form monolithic slab) floors. In this case, crushed stone with dimensions of 5–8 cm (fraction 5–20) is used. This layer plays the role of technological and is intended for laying the main layer over it. waterproofing coating. The radius of the junction is made in the range of 5 – 8 cm. The design of concrete floors provides that the concrete preparation is carried out with reinforcement (fiberglass or steel mesh), which is performed in its lower part. In this case, the thickness of the concrete layer separating it from the ground must be ≥ 2 cm. Alternatively, steel fiber is used for reinforcement (l = 5 - 8 cm, d ≤ 1.0 mm).
Waterproofing is fused on top of this layer (optionally, roll-type waterproofing is glued). The layer is placed on the wall. It provides gas and moisture protection to the structure. It must be hermetically sealed with the waterproofing on the walls.
Construction of floors on the ground next stage provides for the placement of a thermal insulation layer. One of the best materials in this case, the use of EPS boards (extruded polystyrene foam) is considered. The option of laying polystyrene foam is possible. For floors located under living spaces, PSB35 is suitable. For non-residential (garage) materials with a higher density are selected, for example PSB50. Contact with cement-based solutions, after a certain time, destroys the foam, as well as with bitumen and alkaline solutions. Therefore, when concreting floors on the ground, before laying foam sheets, it is necessary to first lay a PE film with an overlap of 10 - 15 cm. The thickness of the insulating layer is pre-calculated and indicated in the project.
The next layer is placed on top of the heat insulator , underlying (PE film). It is necessary to retain moisture in the concrete layer being poured.
A reinforced screed is performed. If you plan to install warm water floors, then the pipes are laid at this stage. If it is available, it will be necessary to provide seams in the screed to compensate for temperature expansion. Pouring concrete floors onto the ground (monolith) must be done to a thickness of ≥ 6 cm. Permitted grades of concrete are B12.5 or more. You can use solutions mixed on the basis of various binders (both gypsum and cement) with a strength of 150 kgf/sq.cm (15 MPa) or more (compressive). The screed being installed is reinforced with a steel mesh (welding), which is laid in the lower third of the layer. Self-leveling screeds made from dry mixtures made at the factory are very convenient to use. The construction of floors on the ground under residential premises can be carried out using prefabricated screeds ( GVL sheets, waterproof multi-layer plywood, or ready-made elements for installing floors).
A finished floor is laid on top of the equipped screed.

The gender described above is classic version floors laid on the ground. On this basis, technical differences in design are possible, which may affect the design described above (for example, a different thickness of the rough screed on floors on the ground), or relate to the materials used.

The only constant requirement. Floors installed in this way under residential premises must be insulated.

Floors built on joists

This is another option for arranging floors laid on the ground. Wooden floors lying on joists placed on support posts consist of the following layers:

Surface of the main soil;
Columns made of concrete or lined with brick;
A layer of waterproofing material;
Wood gaskets;
Logs made of timber;
Finish floors;
Finish coating.

Screed made from sheet building materials, assembled with glue and/or screws (the height of the floors along the ground from the main surface to the bottom surface of the screed is determined by the type of soil at the construction site and the need to perform work to protect it from possible swelling of the latter).

Due to the fact that this version of the floor rests solely on the ground, protection against swelling is of paramount importance. The most simple solution is the insulation of the basement part of the building and the underground part of the equipped strip foundation, which is chosen during the construction of individual houses in the vast majority of cases, to a depth of 500 to 1000 mm (taking into account the characteristics of the specific soil).

There are many options for installing flooring in a private home. One of them is floors on the ground - a multi-layer structure that serves universal basis for any finishing materials.

Arranging the base in this way has its pros and cons. From positive properties The following can be noted:

A wide range of insulation materials helps prevent heat loss from the structure.
The temperature of the soil located under the multi-layer floor structure never drops below zero.
The load is distributed on the soil base - there is no need to make complex calculations.
No dampness or mold.
The resulting subfloor can be covered with any flooring material.
Excellent sound insulation properties.
Fast and uniform heating of the room when water or electric coolants are installed inside the screed.

There are also disadvantages:

Dismantling a structure for the purpose of repair, especially when underfloor heating pipes are damaged, is a labor-intensive and materially costly process.
It is impossible to install such a floor when groundwater flows close to the surface of the earth and soil is loose in composition.
The construction of such a structure is classified as expensive and time consuming. a large number of time and effort.
Significant reduction in the height of the room.

Features of the ground floor

The ground floor is a multi-layer structure. Its features and properties are directly related to the quality and characteristics of the soil. The main requirement relates to groundwater, which must be located below 5 m from the surface of the earth. This will prevent mobility and heaving of soil masses.

Forming a flat, hard surface for laying decorative flooring is the main task. It can also be used to easily create a floor slope for natural drainage of water in the bathroom and shower room on the first floor, bathhouse or sauna.

The depth of soil freezing and seismic activity of the construction region are also important.

Construction conditions

Reinforced monolithic concrete slab, which is a ground floor system, is made on a compacted sand-crushed stone base. The ballast fill forms the base and covering of the required height and transfers the load from the slab to the ground.

The cost of measures to protect the slab from moisture depends on the depth of groundwater. At a depth of 3 meters and more problems will not arise.

A layer of heat and waterproofing laid on a supporting base allows you to protect the structure from below from moisture and heat loss. The soil can be protected from frost heaving by cutting off the cold bridge that causes moisture to freeze. For this purpose the basement of the house with outside insulated using sheet foam.

Requirements for the height of the floor relative to the strip foundation

There are no special requirements for choosing the height of the floor structure relative to the foundation strip. The only parameter that needs to be taken into account is the location front door and the zero floor mark relative to it. It is important to avoid serious differences in height between the porch and floor interior space, having provided for this nuance at the design stage.

If the doorway is correctly manufactured at the pouring stage strip support, making a floor on the ground comes down to the fact that its top, taking into account the finishing layer, must coincide with the level of the threshold.

In the process of pouring a strip foundation, it is already necessary to have an idea of the location of the doorway and its parameters.

Selection of materials

A rough screed about 8 cm thick is poured over a layer of polyethylene film, and two more overlapping layers of polyethylene are laid on top of it to create waterproofing. At this stage, it is necessary to ensure the tightness of the connection between the polyethylene sheets.

A rough screed does not require special qualifications of the builder, but, nevertheless, involves a large number of works associated with its creation. Features of the device and a calculator for calculating the amount of ingredients for a floor screed solution can be found in

Multilayer construction involves sequential laying of layers: sand, and on top crushed stone or expanded clay. After this, a footing, protective layers and a finishing screed are formed, which will serve as the basis for the finishing material. If the soil is too wet, then it is recommended to refrain from using expanded clay due to the material’s ability to absorb excess moisture and change its shape under its influence.

Sand and crushed stone in this design protect the room from moisture. In this case, both layers are carefully compacted, and the crushed stone is treated with bitumen mastic.

The thermal insulation layer is created using the following materials (optional):

extruded polystyrene foam;
mineral wool
foam glass;
Styrofoam.

At the final stage, a reinforced finishing screed is laid. It is important to make it as even as possible, so the solution is poured along the beacons, controlling the process using measuring instruments (level).

Requirements for the type of foundation

The presence of a foundation does not affect the properties of the floor on the ground, only the nature of its interaction with the main one changes structural element building.

Depending on the type of foundation - strip or columnar, the method of joining the floor system depends.

Columnar supports are arranged in such a way that the floor is in contact with the grillage if it is low or located under it.

When the grillage is high, the resulting gap between it and the floor is closed during the pouring process using boards and left inside the structure.

Concerning slab foundation, then it is a floor structure resting on a soil foundation. The installation of a floor on the ground, subject to the existence of a strip foundation, is carried out in such a way that the floor is adjacent to its inner wall.

Types of structures

Regardless of the type of floor construction on the ground, it consists of several main layers.

Table 1. Floor design

Floor design	Laying process
	2. Pour a sand layer. 3. Pour a crushed stone layer. 6. Lay a waterproofing layer of roofing felt. 7. Lay a layer of insulation. 8. Fill in the finishing screed. 9. Lay the finishing coat.
	1. Compact the soil base. 2. Pour a sand layer. 3. Pour a crushed stone layer. 4. Lay a layer of polyethylene. 5. The concrete base is poured. 6. Lay a layer of insulation. 7. Pour in the solution. 8. Lay down the finishing material.
	1. Compact the soil base. 2. Pour a sand layer. 3. Pour a crushed stone layer. 4. Spill liquid on top concrete mortar. 5. Lay a layer of insulation. 6. Pour in the solution. 7. Lay the finishing material.
	1. Compact the soil base. 2. Lay a layer of polyethylene. 3. The concrete base is poured. 4. Lay a layer of insulation. 5. Fill in the finishing screed. 6. Lay the finishing coat.
	1. Compact the soil base. 2. Pour and compact the sand layer. 3. The crushed stone layer is poured and compacted. 4. The concrete base is poured. 5. Lay a waterproofing layer of roofing felt. 6. Lay a layer of insulation 7. Fill in the finished reinforced screed (without gap) with coolants. 8. Lay the finishing coat.

Points to consider

The floor design is selected depending on the operating conditions. There are several leading factors:

Level of operational loads. If they are over 200 kg, then the reinforcing mesh should have a rod diameter of 4 mm; if the load is less than the specified value, then 3 mm is sufficient.
The distance from the surface of the earth at which groundwater flows. It is recommended to take into account highest value(during floods or seasonal snow melting).
The purpose of the design is with coolants (warm floor system) or conventional. A floor with water or cable coolant involves installing a gap around the perimeter of the room between the finishing concrete covering and a 2 cm wall. The lower layers are adjacent to the walls.

Now there are several types of “warm floors” on the construction market. They differ in the type of coolant and operating efficiency. How to choose a heated floor? We'll tell you in

Question answer

Table 2. Most popular questions

Question	Answer
Is it suitable? broken brick and construction waste as a replacement for crushed stone in the bedding layer	Crushed bricks will not cope with protecting the slab from moisture. They are also not suitable as leveling bedding due to the difference in the sizes of individual elements, which cannot be compacted well and do not provide normal work the entire floor structure.
Is it possible to abandon the mesh for reinforcement and replace it with untied rods?	Reinforcement will “work” correctly only when using rigidly fixed rods that form mesh cells of 10 x 10 cm.
Is it possible to use expanded clay in bedding instead of crushed stone?	Expanded clay is not suitable as a material that protects the floor from below from the capillary action of moisture, since it itself absorbs moisture and is modified under its influence. Although this lightweight, inexpensive material is quite suitable as a leveling layer in dry soil and can replace crushed stone.
Is it possible to do watering instead of installing a concrete footing?	If the purpose of laying crushed stone and sand is to create a layer that prevents the passage of moisture, then spilling will prevent the crushed stone from coping with its function.
Can polyethylene under a rough screed replace a waterproofing layer?	No, since this layer is technological, protecting the backfill from cement laitance.
Is it possible to refuse screed reinforcement?	No. This process can only be abandoned when constructing a concrete footing.
Is it possible to refuse to make a concrete base and lay the waterproofing and insulation layer directly on the base?	Place the waterproofing layer on a level surface solid foundation– this allows you to extend its service life. The same applies to the installation of insulation, which must be fixed motionless and not provoke the formation of cracks on the floor surface.

Features of heat and waterproofing

The role of the thermal insulation layer is as follows:

To reduce or eliminate heat loss.
To protect the structure from moisture coming from the ground.
Soundproof the room.
To exclude the process of vaporization.
In creating optimal microclimatic indicators.

When installing a simple floor on the ground, it is possible to use ordinary polyethylene film. The process goes like this:

When laying polyethylene (150 microns) on a finished, compacted base, the film sheets are laid overlapping (15-20 cm) and the joints are carefully taped with tape. The edges around the perimeter of the room are placed on the walls to a height of 10 - 20 cm. To be sure of the reliability of the waterproofing layer, the procedure for laying the film can be done twice, carefully fixing the material each time.
The thickness of the insulation (foam or expanded polystyrene) should not be less than 10 cm. Due to the fact that foam is afraid of exposure to moisture, it is protected on both sides using the method described above.
A reinforcing mesh with cells of 10 x 10 cm and a wire diameter of 3 mm is laid on top of the insulation.
After this, the screed is poured to a height of 5 cm.

Important! Do not neglect the external insulation of the foundation, blind area and organization of water drainage from the base.

This method of organizing the floor has its pros and cons. From positive qualities The following can be noted:

Suitable for most soil substrates.
High-quality insulation of the foundation increases its resistance to loads during frost heaving of the soil.
The solution consumption is less than when installing a slab foundation.
This flooring is durable.
No need to perform additional insulation pipes and other communications passing through the floor structure.
Suitable for laying finishing material.
There is no need to create high-quality ventilation of the underground space.

The disadvantages are that the cost of work may increase when constructing a high base.

The location of the reinforcement in the screed mass depends on the presence of coolants in it. If it is a warm floor, then the reinforcing mesh is placed above the pipes and about 3 cm of screed layer is provided on top. IN ordinary floor the mesh is placed approximately in the middle of the screed array (3 cm to the top).

Manufacturing technology

Before you start pouring the floor, it is important to carefully prepare the base, consisting of several layers. The main recommendations are to use fine filler in concrete mixture and its laying along the beacons in one go.

Laying the underlying layer

This layer consists of a compacted sand cushion with a height and a crushed stone bedding (fraction 30-50 mm) with a height of 7 to 10 cm each. The purpose of this layer is to protect the lower part of the slab from exposure to moisture from the soil and to serve as a leveling base.

The soil characteristics that must be taken into account before proceeding with floor installation include the following:

It is important to remove the plant layer of soil when preparing the base. Otherwise, due to shrinkage, the concrete structure will simply collapse.
Sand is used when groundwater levels are low to the surface, as it is capable of absorbing moisture.
When using crushed stone on wet soil, capillary rise of moisture is excluded.

Important! The footing can be replaced if the layer of crushed stone is leveled with sand so that the waterproofing film laid on it is not damaged. Cement laitance is used to pour the underlying layer first.

To reduce the cost of work and get a high-quality result at the preparation and design stage, it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

After laying the finishing material, the level of the finished floor should coincide with the level of the threshold of the entrance opening.
It is necessary to prevent the floor screed from resting on fragments of the base or foundation that protrude from the internal walls.
During the process of compacting the sand layer, it is irrigated rather than spilled through with water.

Installation of footing and waterproofing

The purpose of the waterproofing material is to prevent the insulation and screed from getting wet under the influence of moisture.

When directing bitumen roll materials, two layers are created. The overlap is at least 15 cm when positioned perpendicularly.
When using film, the direction of gluing the sheets does not matter. The main thing is to overlap and carefully seal the joints.
The EPDM membrane is laid in one layer.

The installation of a concrete footing with a height of 5 to 10 cm allows you to create a flat and rigid base for the waterproofing layer (gluing film, fusing bitumen). Otherwise, when using rolled bitumen materials or PVC film, their installation becomes significantly more complicated due to the divergence of joints on loose ground.

Important! To create a rough screed, it is possible to use lean concrete, in which the cement content is minimal. It is not necessary to reinforce this layer. Rigid fixation of the rough screed with the foundation and plinth is prohibited.

Laying insulation

Strips of insulation or a tape of the same name are used as a damper layer. The tape sticks directly to inside foundation or plinth around the perimeter of the room.

The thickness of the insulation (from 5 to 15 cm) is taken in accordance with the operating conditions in the region of construction.

Being, in fact, a ceiling, the ground floor is not rigidly fixed to the walls of the room. Therefore he has the following qualities in the field of insulation:

The contact points between the floor and the plinth, due to the presence of a lower insulated layer, are completely protected from heat loss.
Using a damper layer installed around the perimeter of the room between the screed and the wall, the room can be protected from vibration and noise.
Sealing and leveling work, which is required when laying slabs, will not be required in this case.
The advantage is the lack of free space (underfloor) under the floor structure.

A floating screed involves introducing utility pipes into the room before pouring the solution - heating, cold and hot water supply, sewerage.

It is important to understand that the input nodes with such a floor design have zero repairability. Therefore, in order not to resort to destroying the screed, risers are laid inside the pipes larger diameter so that it is possible to perform timely replacement or cleaning of pipes.

Concrete pouring options

Plaster beacons or metal profiles, which are used when pouring the solution, allow you to increase the productivity of the work performed and obtain a high-quality coating.

The peculiarity of the work is that you cannot walk on the reinforcing mesh while pouring the floor, so there are two ways to carry out the work.

When pouring the solution from far corners premises towards the door, the reinforcing mesh inside the concrete is given the required level of rigidity, therefore vacant plots the reinforcement does not move. This method is called "tracks".

Movement around the pouring area can be carried out using ladders - suitable stands made of brick or timber installed in the mesh cells, on which the boards rest.

After 3 days you can produce finishing floor.

Prices for reinforcing mesh for screed

reinforcing mesh for floor screed

Video - Do-it-yourself floors on the ground

In the process of construction and arrangement basements, garages, various outbuildings, and sometimes even residential premises (of course, in regions with a warm, mild climate), developers often prefer technology that involves installing a concrete floor on the ground.

After reading the information below, you will receive all the necessary information to independently carry out the event in question, refusing to involve third-party craftsmen in this work and significantly saving on the construction of the floor.

Before giving preference to the construction technology of the design in question, familiarize yourself with the key soil requirements given in the following table.

Table. Soil requirements for constructing a reliable concrete floor

Additionally, requirements are imposed directly on the building itself. It is important that the house is used for permanent residence or at least heated during the cold season. Otherwise, the ground will freeze, causing the concrete structure to deform.

Scheme of floors on the ground for a private house, garage, utility room

Technology for installing concrete floors on the ground

We make the floor after completing the construction of the walls and arranging the roof/floor. The actual work on constructing the structure in question on the ground consists of several technological stages, the execution sequence of which is given below.

First stage. Marking the floor level

First we need to set the zero level of the future floor. To do this we do the following:

Second phase. Clearing and compacting the soil

Let's move on to the stage preliminary preparation soil. First we need to get rid of construction waste if available. Next we remove the top ball of soil. Traditionally, the multilayer structure of the concrete floor has a thickness of about 30-35 cm. We dig until the distance between the previously laid zero level line and the bottom of the pit reaches the specified value.

After this, we need to compact and level the surface. The best tool for this job is a special vibrating plate for compacting soil. If there is no such thing, we take a simple log, nail strong handles on top of it, nail a board underneath and use the resulting device to compact the soil. We work until we get a fairly dense and even base. No special checks are required: just walk on the ground and, if there are no depressions left in it from the feet, we proceed to the next stage of work.

Hand digging is never perfectly accurate. If the depth of the pit is greater than the required thickness of the future concrete structure, fill the difference with a layer of sand and compact it thoroughly.

Helpful advice! You can use another solution to the above problem by first laying a layer of clay, pouring it with water, compacting it, filling it with sand and further compacting it. Such a system will provide additional waterproofing of the future concrete structure, preventing groundwater penetrate its structure.

Third stage. Making the backfill

We fill in a 5-10 cm layer of gravel. We spill the backfill with water and compact it thoroughly. For greater convenience, we can first drive into the ground several rows of scraps of reinforcement or other similar material the required length - this will make it easier for us to ensure the required backfill height. It is important that the trimmings are strictly level. After arranging each planned layer, the pegs can be removed.

Place about a 10cm layer of sand on top of the gravel. The pegs from the previous stage will help us control the thickness of the backfill. To carry out this activity, it is not necessary to use sifted material - even gully sand with minor impurities will do. We also compact the sand thoroughly.

Place a layer of crushed stone on top of the sand. Optimal suitable material fractions 4-5 cm. Compact the crushed stone. Sprinkle on top thin layer sand, carefully level it and compact it thoroughly. If we find crushed stone with sharp protruding edges, we remove it or rearrange it so that there are no sharp corners throughout the entire plane.

Important! Each layer of backfill must be level. Similar requirements apply to the layers of the “pie” that are further arranged.

Fourth stage. We install moisture and heat insulation materials

To protect concrete from the harmful effects of moisture, we use a special waterproofing membrane or ordinary polyethylene film. A material with a thickness of 200 microns is optimal. The work is carried out in an extremely simple sequence: we lay out the film on the base, bringing its edges a couple of centimeters above the zero level indicated in the previous stages, lay the insulation sheets directly with a 10-15-centimeter overlap, and fix the joints with tape.

The structure can be insulated using a wide variety of materials, here is just a short list:

expanded clay;
mineral wool slabs;
Styrofoam;
rolled isolon, etc.

We lay the selected material, following the provisions of the appropriate technology, and proceed to further work.

Fifth stage. We arrange the reinforcing layer

A multilayer concrete structure is subject to mandatory reinforcement. We reinforce the floor with PVC or metal mesh to choose from. Metal wire and reinforcement bars are also well suited for solving this problem. They must first be tied into a mesh (we select the size of the cells in accordance with the expected loads: for high ones we take 10x10 cm, for medium ones - 15x15 cm, for low ones 20x20 cm will be enough), using flexible steel wire to fasten the joints.

We lay the reinforcing frame on pre-installed supports having a height of about 20-30 mm.

Important note! In the case of hardening using plastic mesh, the material is pulled onto pegs previously driven into the base.

Sixth stage. We install guides and formwork

Correct pouring of concrete mixture to the zero level is impossible without the use of guides. We do the following:

Important! Before proceeding with the next stage of work, be sure to check the correct installation of the guides and formwork using a level. If there are differences, you simply cannot make a flat floor. To eliminate irregularities, it is enough to trim off the protruding places. You can raise the guides in the right places by placing bars of a suitable size or the same plywood under them.

Be sure to treat before pouring wooden elements special oil. Thanks to this, in the future we will be able to remove the boards from the solution without any difficulty.

Seventh stage. Pour concrete and make a screed

We fill the previously created “maps” with concrete mortar. If possible, we try to fill the entire mass at once - this way we will get the most durable monolithic structure. If you are not able or willing to order ready-mixed concrete, we do it ourselves.

Pouring concrete along beacons (option without maps)

To do this, we will need a concrete mixer or a large suitable container for manual mixing, cement (we use material grades M400-500), a shovel, crushed stone, sand. We work according to the following recipe: 1 share of cement, 2 shares of sand, 4 shares of crushed stone and about 0.5 shares of water (may vary, we will guide you as you work). Thoroughly mix the ingredients until a homogeneous mixture and proceed to further work.

It is most convenient to pour from the corner opposite to the front door - in this case you will not have to walk on concrete. Fill several cards in 1, maximum 2 steps, level the solution and stretch the mixture. If you have a special vibrator, use it to compact the mixture.

Formwork around pipelines

Having filled out several “cards”, we begin to level the base. The two-meter (or longer) rule will help us with this. We install the tool on the previously mounted guides and pull it towards ourselves. This way we get rid of excess concrete.

We take out the guides and formwork from the processed “cards” (specialists usually do this a day after pouring, some do it earlier, we focus on the situation). In a similar sequence, fill the entire site with concrete. After this, cover the base with plastic wrap and leave it to gain strength for a month. While drying concrete structure You need to regularly moisten it with water to prevent it from cracking.

Finally, all we have to do is fill the screed. To do this, we use a special self-leveling mixture - the most convenient option, the arrangement of which does not require special knowledge and effort.

The leveling mixture will eliminate minor surface imperfections and allow you to obtain a perfectly level base. We traditionally start working from the corner opposite to the entrance to the room.

Prepare the solution according to the manufacturer's instructions, pour it onto the floor and distribute it evenly over the surface using long rule or other suitable tool. We specify the drying time of the mixture in the instructions, usually it is 2-3 days.

The concrete floor on the ground is ready. All we have to do is place the chosen flooring. Thanks to a properly arranged, level base, the finish will look beautiful and last as long as possible.

Now you know everything about installing a concrete floor on the ground and will be able to carry out the necessary measures yourself. You just need to follow the guide and everything will definitely work out.

Good luck!

Video - Installation of a concrete floor on the ground

On a strip foundation it is significantly different in that different materials are used in its manufacture.

This floor has many layers. The layers go from the ground itself to the final covering. Before starting installation, we will consider all the features.

Features of different layers of flooring

In order for people to be comfortable indoors, any building must have a multi-layer base.

The house where people will subsequently live must be approached with special attention, since the standard of living of people will depend on this.

Sole

In order to make floors on the ground that will correspond, it is necessary to start work with a high-quality base.

To begin with, half a meter needs to be removed from the layer of black soil and replaced with sand with a coarse fraction. A layer of sand is raised above the ground level and compacted with a vibrating plate.

In the process of compacting the sand, its surface is watered. This is necessary for better shrinkage. You can also use soil to which gravel has been added.

Litter layer

This layer serves to distribute pressure on the base. After all, if one corner of the house sags, dire consequences cannot be avoided.

In order to make a bedding layer, pour five centimeters.

An innovation in the design of this level is a profiled membrane, due to which the work time and price are reduced.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing is necessary to protect against moisture and is important for maintaining good condition floor covering.

If not used, rot may form.

In the future, these unfavorable factors can and will disrupt the comfortable stay in the room.

Waterproofing materials

For waterproofing you need following materials:

for the floor;
Fiberglass;
Polyester;
PVC membrane

The same alternative to the above materials is polyethylene film three millimeters thick and folded in half.

Thermal insulation

A large amount of heat escapes through the floor. To avoid heat loss, it is necessary to make a thermal insulation layer from special materials.

The following materials are used for thermal insulation:

cotton wool;
Polyurethane;
Expanded polystyrene;

The choice of insulation depends on your desire and finances.

A good solution would be to install a system (water or electric). This solution, however, will cost you a pretty penny, but a warm floor will allow you to save on heating in the future.

Support layer

This layer is considered the most important support of the building.

Such a layer is reinforced concrete slab and it consists of class B12 concrete; steel mesh; crushed stone, ranging in size from 5 to 20 mm.

Leveling screed

Before final coating, the floor must be leveled.

Level it using cement - sand mixture and fill in using beacons.

Finishing layer

For the final coating, you can choose any material you like. For example:

Vinyl, parquet.

To choose the material at your discretion, you need to understand technical purpose each layer of flooring. Then you can independently calculate the floor based on the ground.

Installing a floor on the ground yourself

The floor on the ground made of wood is different; this is achieved by raising the floor above the ground.

Instructions for installation of wooden floors

Creating a Solid Foundation

5 cm of crushed stone is poured onto the ground and compacted thoroughly, then covered.
They set up beacons, then screed the floor along the ground.
Next, we will install brick bedside tables over the entire area, with a distance of approximately 80 cm. The height of the supports is approximately 15-20 cm, because if there are columns, with a lower height there will be less air circulation. And with a higher column height, heat losses will increase.
From high humidity, the ends of the columns are covered with roofing felt and an overlap of 4 cm is made.
Logs are installed on the posts, the distance between them and the walls should be 2 cm. Plastic dowels and steel screws are used as fastening.
Wooden logs must be treated before use antiseptics. Such measures will protect you from pest invasion.
Next, lay down the boards and nail them in place. We check the slope of the boards with a level and if there are any deviations, remove them using an electric plane.
The nail heads must be masked with putty, then the boards are coated with primer.

After all procedures, wooden floor ready for installation of the final layer, it can now be painted or coated. And also, if desired, the floor is equipped and insulated.

Instructions for installation of concrete floors

This method is called suspended because the soil acts as formwork for the reinforced concrete slab. This design is considered strong and durable.

The floor is poured over the ground according to the following steps:

Set the upper boundary for the fill, selecting the doorway as a guide.
We compact a layer of gravel and then sand, due to this we obtain a filter pad.
We do a vapor barrier. We use it as a vapor barrier material plastic film 0.3 decimeters, it is laid in the base in two layers and overlapping the walls.
We make a lattice from reinforcement to increase the strength of the screed.
Using dowels and screws, we install beacons.
Next, mix the solution, the ratio of ingredients should be 1:3.

Pour the finished mixture into strips, aligning it with the beacons. After the concrete has hardened, the floor is insulated and the installation of the finishing layer begins.

In order to simplify the concreting process, it is recommended to use a ready-made concrete-sand mixture.

Insulation

Floor insulation is not an unimportant part of the ground floor construction. You can insulate the floor different materials. You can choose the material that suits your needs.

The main qualities that an insulating material should have are:

Low thermal conductivity;
Increased strength to external pressure;
Waterproof.

Several types of materials have these qualities:

.
Enough cheap material. When exposed to bituminous mastics, the foam is susceptible to destruction. It is recommended to cover it plastic film on both sides.

Extruded polystyrene foam.
More expensive and better than foam. It is durable, retains heat, and better resists moisture.

Mineral wool.
Durable and warm material, but the disadvantage of the material is that it absorbs moisture. Therefore, when concreting, it is better to protect this material from contact with the solution.

Expanded clay.
This material can replace gravel, screed and insulation.