What is the best way to insulate the ceiling in a private house? Insulation of the ceiling in the house: principles and features, materials, technology of work Insulation of the ceiling.

Currently, almost all residential buildings are heated using gas or electric heat-generating equipment. Even country houses and garden houses, which are used only in summer, are no exception. Most buildings that are not used year-round are equipped with inexpensive cold-type roofs, through which the main heat losses occur while maintaining a comfortable temperature regime. In this article we will tell you how to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof so that the house is always warm.

The design of the roof depends on the nature of the use of the house and the space under the roof. The choice of form depends on these factors, roofing material, scheme rafter frame and the presence or absence of a thermal insulation layer . In private housing construction, 2 types of roofs are used:

Important! If the attic space is not heated, then the air in it serves as a kind of buffer zone, which serves as thermal insulation and reduces heat loss. The air rising from the heated rooms of the first floor, according to the law of convection, gradually cools and does not heat the surface of the slopes from the inside, due to which ice does not form on them.

To retain heat, as well as reduce fuel consumption to maintain an optimal temperature, the ceiling located under a cold roof is insulated using loose or fibrous thermal insulation materials. Since heated air always rises, this operation is effective measure reducing heat loss.

Thermal insulation methods

High-quality thermal insulation reduces heat loss and home heating costs by 30%, which is on a large scale family budget is a good saving. The use of suitable insulation and the correct choice of installation method create a comfortable microclimate in the room.

The issue of thermal insulation of the ceiling cold roof It’s better to decide at the stage of building a house, then you can choose the most effective and convenient option. Most often, insulation is installed in 2 ways:

Note! Any thermal insulation works comprehensively. Therefore, if you want to solve problems with heat loss in a house with a cold roof, do not forget about thermal insulation of the floor, doors and window openings. A clear way to analyze where the heat goes is to look at the house with a thermal imager in winter. To improve the energy efficiency of your home, you need to pay attention to the areas painted red and yellow, it is through them that heat escapes.

Materials

The modern construction market offers an impressive range of materials for thermal insulation, but not all of them are suitable for insulating the ceiling under a cold roof. In order for the costs to be justified, it is necessary that the thermal insulating layer is resistant to moisture, has low thermal conductivity and meets safety standards for human health.

The following materials are used for insulation:

Experienced craftsmen remind us that vapor barrier and waterproofing layers play an important role in insulating the floor located under a cold roof. To protect the insulation from getting wet as a result of interaction with heated air saturated with water vapor, a vapor barrier membrane is first laid. And on the roof side it is protected from leaks using a waterproofing film.

Video instruction

How to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof

Ceiling insulation is necessary not only to simply increase the temperature in a living room. It is much more important to exclude the possibility of condensation forming on a cold surface. Warm air saturated with water vapor rises upward. In contact with a cold ceiling slab, it actively condenses moisture.

The resulting material ceiling becomes saturated with water, the processes of rotting, the formation of fungus and mold, and the destruction of the ceiling structure begin. All these phenomena can only be avoided by changing physical conditions air contact with the ceiling.

Important! Insulation is an important and responsible procedure that allows you to increase the service life of the ceiling and save up to 40% of thermal energy, spent on heating the ceiling.

Let's take a closer look at the question.

If the ceiling is concrete

Concrete has high heat capacity. It actively absorbs thermal energy while remaining cold. This causes condensation to form, which can lead to concrete failure. In cold weather, an unheated attic has a temperature close to the outside. Moisture in a wet ceiling slab can freeze and tear the concrete from the inside. Several cycles of such freezing can crumble the slab, requiring expensive repairs.

It is best to insulate a concrete slab from the attic side. At the same time, it is imperative to choose so as not to interfere with the removal of water vapor from the room.

If installing an insulator from the attic side is impossible, then you will have to insulate it from the inside, which is acceptable, but much worse. In this case, you need to do the opposite - choose insulation that is impenetrable to vapor, and first attach a layer of vapor barrier to the ceiling surface to ensure that there is no contact between the slab and warm air.

If the ceiling is wooden

Wooden floors are susceptible to rotting, the appearance of mold, mildew and other biological manifestations. If the temperature regime is not organized correctly, the ceiling will become wet, which will cause all the undesirable consequences. The solution to the problem is insulation, which can be done both from above and from below.

Installing an insulator on the attic side maintains the ceiling height in the room and cuts off the ceiling from contact with cold air. Unlike insulation technology concrete ceilings, For wooden structures an impenetrable thermal insulator is required.

When installed internally (from below), an impenetrable type of insulation is also used, which prevents the penetration of water vapor to the wooden structural elements. In addition, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier film that separates the materials from each other and creates an additional barrier to steam.

Vapor barrier: barriers and membranes

The problem of moisture condensation is a key issue in the insulation process. If this phenomenon is not taken into account, the entire procedure may be useless.

The danger also lies in the fact that after installing the insulation from the inside, the condition of the ceiling slab becomes unknown, all processes occurring in it are hidden from the view of the observer. The owner often finds out about the presence of damage when the ceiling is completely damaged.

One of effective ways To eliminate moisture condensation, install a vapor barrier film or membrane. Let's look at them in more detail:

Vapor barriers

A vapor barrier (or vapor barrier) is regular polyethylene film , forming an airtight barrier for water vapor. You can use specialized types made for vapor barrier of surfaces, but you can use a simple polyethylene sleeve - the result will be the same.

The vapor barrier is installed in strips, with an overlap of at least 15 cm and an overlap of about 10 cm on the walls (at the end of the work, the excess film is carefully cut off). Longitudinal joints are glued with special tape, which makes the insulation sheet airtight.

The vapor barrier is installed on top of the heat insulator when installed from the inside or between a wooden floor and an impenetrable insulator when insulating from the attic side. On concrete floors, a vapor barrier is installed only when insulating from the inside, on top of an impenetrable heat insulator.

Membranes

The membranes are films with one-way permeability. They do not allow moisture to enter, but they are not an obstacle to the release of steam outside.

Membranes are installed to protect the insulation from getting wet.

For example, when insulating a concrete slab from the attic side with mineral wool, in order to prevent the insulator from getting wet, a vapor-waterproofing membrane is installed. It allows water vapor to escape freely, but does not allow external moisture to enter the insulation, allowing it to maintain its performance qualities.

Types of insulation: characteristics and prices

Let's look at the most common materials for ceiling insulation:

Mineral wool

This is one of the most popular insulation materials. Minvata, or stone wool, has excellent heat-saving properties, is available in various options- rolls, slabs, mats.

Prices for mineral wool have a wide range, depending on the parameters of the material - density, thickness, country of origin and start from 500 rubles. per package: 8 slabs, 1.2 m*0.6 m*0.05 m.

Mineral wool has excellent vapor permeability, which makes it good choice for external insulation of concrete or brick enclosing structures. The only one the disadvantage of the material is the ability to absorb water, therefore it is recommended to install a hydro-vapor barrier membrane on top of the mineral wool.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is a sealed granule with gas bubbles inside. It is produced from clay shale by firing at high temperature. The material is very light, completely insensitive to water, fire, and resistant to all biological manifestations.

The cost of expanded clay is relatively low and depends on the standard size (there are different groups, united by the size of the granules), starts from 100 rubles. for 10-20 mm (0.05 m3).

The only drawback of expanded clay is its structure; bulk materials are practically not used for insulation vertical planes, which limits the demand for them.

Ecowool

Ecowool is a loose, bulk heat insulator made from cellulose or paper production waste. The main advantage of ecowool is its environmental friendliness, although such an abundance of additives that prevent burning and rotting makes it close to synthetic materials.

Ecowool afraid of exposure to moisture and, application requires special equipment. These qualities reduce the competitiveness of the material, although there are also supporters of environmentally friendly insulation.

Expanded polystyrene

There are two types of expanded polystyrene - polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Externally, they are very different from each other, which is due to the difference in production technology. Polystyrene foam consists of individual granules, hermetically sealed and interconnected by the thermal effect of hot steam. Extruded polystyrene foam - hardened foam, homogeneous and completely impermeable to water.

The cost of polystyrene foam is low and makes it the most common insulation material, although in most cases it is not suitable due to its vapor barrier. Price from 110 rub. for 14.4 m², 50 mm thick.

Extruded polystyrene foam is much more expensive, stiffer and stronger. Both types are used on surfaces that do not require steam outlet.

Polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is sold in special containers in liquid form. The installation resembles the application of ecowool - the material is sprayed using special equipment. In air, polyurethane foam turns into foam and hardens. The insulator does not allow water or steam to pass through at all. It is excellent for insulating surfaces with complex terrain and in hard-to-reach places.

The cost of the material is high, which makes it inaccessible to many users - from 2000 rubles. for 1 kg.

Penoplex

Penoplex is a type of extruded polystyrene foam. It has all the qualities of EP, is impermeable to moisture, durable and resistant to biological manifestations. There are different standard sizes of penoplex on sale, allowing you to obtain a layer of insulation of any required thickness.

Its cost is from 1700 rubles. for 3.4 m², 100 mm thick.

Penofol

Penofol is foamed polyethylene, covered aluminum foil. There are three types of material:

• A - foil layer installed on one side
• B - foil available on both sides
• C - foil on one side, self-adhesive layer on the other to facilitate installation

Cost of 1 linear meter penofol, depending on the type and thickness, ranges from 38 to 345 rubles.

When installing, the foil layer should be turned towards the room.

Seaweed

Seaweed insulation colloquially called damask. There are three types of damask:

• hanging. These are rolls or bales made from compressed dried seaweed
• mats in mesh. They are canvases about 10 cm thick, placed in a mesh for strength.
• slabs. Algae makes up about 85%, the rest is a binding element, most often silicone

The material is quite exotic, common only near the production sites. The insulator made from algae has not gained wide popularity, except in the coastal regions of the Krasnodar Territory and Crimea, where damask is used everywhere.

Swamp moss

Swamp moss (sphagnum) has been used for insulation for a very long time. In the middle of the last century it was practically not used, preferring more modern materials, but in Lately it's back on sale.

The main value of moss is its juice, which has antiseptic properties.

In the old days, it was used to seal the joints between the crowns of log houses, to insulate baths and other buildings. Sphagnum juice kills bacteria, preventing rotting. Currently, the material refers, rather, to exotic types of insulation. It is not widely used, but is an attractive material for supporters of natural and environmentally friendly materials.

Sawdust, shavings

Sawdust and shavings can be used in their pure form, but it is better to mix them with other materials. The fact is that wood is susceptible to rotting, swelling with water, is a fire hazard, and is extremely biologically unstable. Therefore, sawdust or shavings It is customary to mix with diluted lime or sand-cement mortar . They are laid either in one mass, which dries in place, or slabs are made.

Arbolit, commercially available, consists of sawdust and cement mortar as a binder. The material has not gained popularity among users because its properties are questionable; other materials have higher efficiency.

Cork

The use of cork as insulation is very limited. It is used as a substrate, as an intermediate elastic layer, but for insulation it is better to choose materials more suitable for this. Cork has many advantages, but most of them are more decorative than functional.

The thickness of the cork in rolls is about 3 mm, this is too little for insulation, and installing a multi-layer pack is irrational, labor-intensive and too expensive.

Therefore, cork layers are installed only as a substrate under laminate, linoleum or parquet, as a sound insulator and elastic durable coating.

Calculation of insulation thickness

Attention! Calculating the thickness of insulation is an extremely complex task that requires certain knowledge, the use of SNiP requirements and tables, the use of formulas and other data. Searching for information is difficult and the results may be inaccurate. It is recommended to use the services or use online calculators; to clarify, you can duplicate the calculation on another resource.

Insulation of the ceiling from the room side

Internal insulation is carried out if it is impossible to carry out work from the attic. It reduces the height of the ceiling, requires a series of operations, and complicates the installation of lamps or other equipment mounted on the ceiling.

Installation of insulation will require careful vapor barrier; the choice of material should take into account the need for impermeability of the insulator. For example, polystyrene foam, a cheap and effective material for internal insulation. The procedure consists of several stages, which should be considered in more detail.

Ceiling preparation

Before starting work, it is necessary to remove the chandelier or lamps, disconnect all curtains, brackets and other foreign objects that may be attached to the ceiling slab. The surface of the ceiling slab must be clean and dry. If there are any peeling or shedding, they must be removed. Detected cracks or other defects should be filled with putty; large potholes should be plastered.

Installation with glue

The adhesive composition for installing insulation is sold in stores. Usually it is a dry mixture that must be diluted with water according to the instructions on the package. The finished solution is similar to ceramic tile adhesive.

Glue is applied to insulation boards in the same way as on tiles - using a straight spatula. approximate quantity, then the layer is calibrated with a notched trowel. After this, the insulator plate is pressed tightly against the ceiling slab and is additionally fixed with special dowels with wide caps. The next plate is installed in a similar way. There should be no gaps between the plates; the sides must be covered with a layer of glue for a tight connection.

Important! You must not miss the moment and bring the wire from the chandelier outside in time, otherwise it will be too late later and you will have to pick apart the laid insulation.

After completing the work, some time is given for the glue to dry (according to the instructions on the packaging), after which a vapor barrier layer is installed.

The best finishing option is suspended ceiling, for amateurs - continuous plastering ceiling surface followed by staining.

Installation of insulation between the sheathing guides

This method good for insulation wooden ceiling . The sheathing and insulation should have the same thickness, or the sheathing should be slightly thicker. The distance between the sheathing strips is selected so that the insulation panels are tightly inserted between them. This will help you use the insulator most economically.

Installing insulation between planks produced without glue, but if necessary, the slabs are fixed with thick thread or twine. When installing, you need to ensure that it is tight and that there are no cracks or gaps. If they appear, the detected flaws are immediately filled polyurethane foam.

After installing the insulation vapor barrier film is being installed. As cladding, you can use sheets of plasterboard, which are attached with screws to the sheathing strips.

Insulating the ceiling from the attic side

Insulation from the attic - most The right way , providing high-quality results and not reducing the height of the ceiling. In addition, all work is carried out outside the residential area, which helps maintain cleanliness and does not interfere with the use of the premises for their intended purpose. If the ceiling slab is concrete, then it is necessary to ensure proper removal of water vapor, for which you will need a permeable insulator and a vapor-hydroprotective membrane.

Installation of insulation boards or mats

Plates or mats laid between the sheathing strips or simply on the surface of the ceiling. The material is packed tightly no gaps or gaps. In hard-to-reach places, leaks or cracks may appear, so you need to keep several cans of polyurethane foam on hand and immediately fill the cavities.

If the ceiling design allows, you can install a flooring of boards on top of the insulation and membrane so that you can move freely along the ceiling.

Spraying insulation material

Sprayed materials are polyurethane foam or ecowool. The first can only be used on wooden floors, the second - on concrete. This is due to the vapor permeability of the material; it is not required for wooden floors, but for concrete floors it is necessary.

The insulator is applied to the required thickness, after which the protective flooring is installed. For ecowool, you will need to install a layer of vapor-hydroprotective membrane on top.

The method gives high-quality results, but requires the use of appropriate equipment, which will have to be dragged into the attic, which is not easy to do.

Insulation with bulk materials

Filling the attic with bulk insulation - one of the easiest ways to perform insulation. Optimal material - expanded clay, it is resistant to any impact and is almost eternal. Backfilling is carried out to a certain thickness, which can be found in the SNiP tables.

The material is poured in an even layer and leveled with a special tool. The work is completed fairly quickly, and the results are always quite positive.

Preferred materials - expert opinion

Most preferred material for ceiling insulation is determined by the type of ceiling and the installation location.

For concrete slabs and installation from the attic side best choice- mineral wool, and for internal installation - penoplex.

If the ceiling is wooden, then penoplex can be placed both inside and outside. Polystyrene foam is somewhat worse than penoplex, but it is much cheaper, which is also an important factor.

The company "Roof-Pro" carries out high-quality roofing and general construction work of any complexity for private houses, cottages and summer cottages.

Today, even small sheds and seasonal country houses have electric and gas equipment, which generates heat, making our lives more comfortable. Those buildings that are intended for temporary use are insulated with relatively inexpensive material.

IN residential buildings a completely different story. Insulating the ceiling in a house with a cold roof is done to prevent heat from escaping from the living quarters.

Choosing a roof begins with how the future building will be used and what it is intended for.

This is interesting: in cottages or country houses, cold and warm roofing can be used at the same time.

Warm roofing is used to insulate the ceiling in a private house. This is a design that provides complete insulation of slopes. If the house is heated daily, then with this roof the heat will not escape due to the slopes. But it is worth remembering that this type is quite expensive.

The cold type of roofing is structured completely differently. The standard scheme for laying materials is as follows:

• waterproofing;
• thermal insulation;
• roof.

This design is done on buildings where people will not live. The advantages of this roof are that it is lightweight and very inexpensive. With a cold roof, you can insulate the ceiling in a private house with your own hands without much difficulty. Therefore, this type is considered as the most convenient and cheap way organizing a roof for an unheated building.

This is interesting: if there is no heating in the attic, then convection occurs, which gradually cools the incoming air from the premises and prevents the slopes from icing.

What are the advantages of insulating the ceiling under the roof?

To know how to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof, it is important to consider all its positive aspects:

• additional sound insulation;
• helps to establish the constancy of the room climate, since it does not allow warm air to enter in the summer;
• V winter period will not allow air to escape from the house.

Ceiling insulation in wooden house It’s very difficult to do it yourself, so it’s better to hire specialists for these purposes.

Before building your house, you need to know for sure that the better the house is insulated, the less you will have to spend on heating equipment. This will significantly enrich your budget.

Installation is carried out using two methods:

• from the floor below;
• from the attic side.

The best and most effective insulation of the ceiling from the inside in a private house is carried out using the second method, since usually the ceiling structure is made of wood, which already has thermal insulation.

Specifics of insulation on the lower floor side

Insulation using this method is carried out when:

• no access to the attic;
• houses with existing attics are being remodeled.

What does installation involve:

• creating a frame from wooden beams or metals;
• tiled insulated material;
• sheathing plasterboard.

The disadvantage of this method of insulation is the reduction of room space, as well as a large expenditure of time and effort.

This is interesting: to eliminate problems with heat loss with a cold roof, it is necessary to insulate all openings.

Modern materials and their characteristics

Today there is a large number of insulation for wood country houses and cottages. What is the best way to insulate the ceiling and not make a mistake with the quality? What characteristics should the correct materials meet:

• high thermal conductivity;
• increased moisture resistance;
• durability;
• environmental Safety;
• degree of flammability.

The most common insulation materials include:

• expanded clay;
• stale sawdust;
• stone wool;
• cellulose ecowool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• Styrofoam;
• polyurethane.

Which insulation materials are more suitable for a wooden house?

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside in the private sector requires special attention. The answer to the question of how to insulate a ceiling in a wooden house can be answered quite simply: you just need to choose the right material for insulation. To choose the material and method of its installation, it is necessary to take into account the type of floor. The insulation can be concrete or wood. The first is carried out using slabs and backfilled insulation, and the second requires rolled or backfill materials.

What natural insulation materials are used today:

• sawdust;
• seaweed;
• reeds;
• clay;
• conifers;
• hay;
• old fallen leaves;
• straw.

This is interesting: natural insulation is short-lived, because it can rot.
Sawdust insulation is effective when the thickness is correctly chosen. Sometimes, as insulation, you can use pellets - sawdust in the form of granules. To reduce the flammability of sawdust, they can be combined with fire retardants.

Method for forming thermal insulation with sawdust

The point of such insulation is to mask the existing wooden floor cracks. This is done using liquid clay. You can sprinkle sand on top to seal cracks. To prevent damage to the thermal insulation by small rodents, it is necessary to sprinkle carbide with slaked lime. Minimum thickness is about 15-20 cm.

To make sawdust more fire-resistant, it is necessary to treat it with slag, especially in the chimney areas. There is no need to lay anything on top. If necessary, you can put boards. Another way to insulate is to carry out protective procedures to prevent moisture from entering. You can walk on the surface with clay. You need to mix sawdust with cement like this:

• sawdust (10 parts);
• cement (2 parts);
• water (1.5 parts).

In order for the sawdust and cement to come together firmly, they need to be thoroughly wet. This mixture must be spread over the entire floor of the attic surface with a thickness of at least 20 cm.

Preparing for ceiling insulation

Another way to insulate the ceiling of a private house using sawdust is by mixing it with clay. You just need to take into account that the mixture is not completely liquid. Otherwise, there will be leakage deep into the sawdust.

Clay has long been used as insulation, but for lightness and better durability, a combination of sawdust and clay is used:

• Water is poured into the barrel and clay is poured in in the amount of 3-4 buckets.
• After thorough mixing, add sawdust, water and pour everything into a concrete mixer.

As a result, you should get a medium-density solution, which you need to spread on the ceiling and wait until everything dries. If cracks appear, they must be lubricated with clay and a vapor barrier film must be stretched.

Expanded clay is a natural, non-flammable, non-toxic material that forms an embankment of varying densities. The strongest layer is made from the smallest particles (0.4 - 1 m).

This is interesting: expanded clay is hypoallergenic and has durability and remarkable thermal properties. On the lower floor side, insulation can only be done with mineral wool.

When using expanded clay, you need to correctly calculate its weight, because if you use it to insulate wooden floors, there is a risk that the flooring will fail. It is recommended to use this type of insulation only on concrete structures. To prepare, you need to clean the concrete and cover it with a vapor barrier film.

This is interesting: the film must be laid overlapping so that there are no gaps and the joints must be glued with tape.

Next, knead the clay and spread it onto a layer of film. And expanded clay is placed on top. For better thermal insulation It is necessary to use both small and large granules. Next, a screed is made, which consists of sand-cement mixture thickness of at least 50 mm thick consistency. The advantages of such insulation are safety and environmental friendliness.

Insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool is the most common type of insulation. They are installing the attic. During production mineral wool Various raw materials are used:

• sand;
• broken glass;
• blast furnace slag;
• basalt rocks.

Today, construction stores have a wide selection of insulation:

• slag;
• basalt wool;
• glass wool

The negative side of mineral wool is that it is harmful to health because it emits formaldehyde resins.

Insulation of slag wool

This type of insulation is made from blast furnace slag. Slag wool is very brittle and can quickly become wet, which is why its thermal insulation characteristics can be called into question. It is at this point that acidity begins to rise. Therefore, it is not recommended for them to insulate Vacation home. The only advantage is that it is inexpensive.

Glass wool is made from molten glass mass. To expand the range, there may be another form of glass wool - mat. When installing glass wool, you must stock up on protective equipment: a suit, gloves, safety glasses and a respirator. Most often it is used to insulate attic floors. It can also be combined with other types of insulation.

Insulation of basalt wool

Basalt insulation is made from gabbro-basalt raw materials. It is used for thermal insulation of ceilings inside, because they are very dense.

Manufacturers often add a foil layer to basalt wool. This coating helps retain heat. Insulation is allowed from the attic side and from the lower floor.

This manufacturer produces mineral wool in several forms:

• rigid slabs;
• rolls.

For insulation concrete floors it is necessary to level the surface and cover it with a film coating and install the slabs. Glass fibers and minerals are used as raw materials. Next, the surface is made of plywood or wooden planks and you must not forget about screeding the slabs.

How to insulate wooden floors with URSA wool:

• Add vapor barrier material to the spaces between the beams.
• The film should be applied overlapping, and the resulting joints should be secured with tape.

Important: the overlap on the walls should be 150-250 mm.

Insulation with reeds and seaweed

Reed mats will be good material for thermal insulation. The material can be fastened with wire or twine. It is important that the seams are spaced apart. It is best to apply mats in 2 layers - this will completely eliminate the cold.

Seaweed is an environmentally friendly insulation material and has a number of advantages:

• hypoallergenic;
• beneficial properties of algae;
• will not be damaged by small rodents;
• does not smoke or burn;
• not afraid of insect attacks;
• no need to lay a vapor barrier layer;
• installation is done directly on the floor.

Ecowool insulation

Ecowool is another name for cellulose insulation. What are the advantages of a cellulose product:

• microorganisms do not appear on it, and mold does not appear;
• can be laid in any thickness;
• durability;
• environmentally friendly material;
• during installation, a sealed coating is formed;
• additional sealing possible;
• reduced percentage of flammability;
• the material breathes, so moisture is not retained.

Installation of ecowool can be carried out in two ways:

• The “dry” method consists of scattering the insulation with compaction. In this case, you don’t have to lay down the film.
• The “wet” method is done using special equipment that binds cellulose with glue to the surface of the floors.

Ecowool is a natural insulation material that is absolutely safe.

This type of insulation is much stronger than standard polystyrene foam and is necessary for insulating concrete floors in the attic. However, if a private house has wooden floors, then it is better to abandon penoplex. The disadvantage is that moisture can accumulate there, which can be the initiator of mold. Before installation, the surface must be leveled. Next, foam boards are laid, which are placed staggered.

How to insulate concrete floors

To begin with, the joints formed between the plates must be treated with polyurethane foam. When all the joints are completely dry, then sand-cement screed quite thick consistency. The thickness of the layer must be no less than 50 mm. After the solution becomes solid, a solid floor surface is obtained on the second floor or attic.

conclusions

All insulation materials and their installation technologies that were discussed in this article are the most popular methods for thermal insulation. However, the list of insulation products does not end there. Construction stores have a very wide selection of insulation materials for country houses.

When choosing a material for ceiling insulation, it is important to know all the nuances of the future building. The main thing to remember is that for wooden partitions Sealed materials such as penofol and penoplex will be unsuitable. They are best used for concrete floors of houses.

For wooden houses best to use natural materials, which allow air to pass through and do not retain moisture. For these purposes, it is necessary to use sawdust, algae, ecological wool and reed mats. These insulation materials are environmentally friendly and do not harm human health at all.

Insulation ceiling structures in a private house - this is one of the stages of arranging the ceiling, and far from the most difficult. All that needs to be done to complete this work is to understand the structure of the thermal insulation layer, select the optimal insulation for a particular situation and install it correctly. This article will discuss how to properly insulate a ceiling in a private home.

Choice of insulation

There is no need to think long about whether it is necessary to insulate the ceiling, because the answer is obvious. Thermal insulation is intended not only to retain heat within the building, but also to reduce heating costs. The fact is that thermal energy tends to leave the house, and the largest leaks always occur through ceiling and floor structures. The insulation of interfloor ceilings can be mediocre, but the ceiling, behind which there is an unheated attic, must be protected very well - otherwise most of the heat will escape through the roof.

When choosing insulation for the ceiling in a private home, you need to take into account a whole range of parameters, including:

• Thermal conductivity level - the lower this indicator, the less heat loss will be;
• Moisture absorption coefficient - the decrease in this parameter is directly proportional to the volume of moisture that can be absorbed into the insulation;
• Weight and density - the lower, the more convenient it will be to install the material;
• Flammability class - it is advisable to select products of category G1;
• Environmental friendliness.

For the manufacture of floors in private houses, either concrete or wood is used. Insulation concrete structures can be carried out using bulk and sprayed materials, as well as slab products. Any type of insulation is suitable for working with wooden floors, as long as they have minimal thermal conductivity. Methods for installing insulation may differ, so each case must be considered individually.

Methods of ceiling insulation

Ceiling insulation in a private house can be done in two ways:

• Internal;
• External.

The methods are quite different, and each of them has a number of characteristic features. Both insulation options can be used either separately or together (in the latter case the greatest efficiency is achieved). To insulate the ceiling in a private house with your own hands, it is worth considering both methods in more detail and understanding their inherent nuances.

Internal

When insulating the ceiling in a room, it is necessary to mount a frame on which the thermal insulation materials will be supported. This method not very profitable - firstly, the useful volume of the room after installing all the elements is reduced, and secondly, installing the system under the ceiling is quite inconvenient, so all the work will take more time and effort.

In order for the ceiling insulation inside the house to function normally, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier layer. The whole point is that steam inevitably moves upward and tries to go outside the room. If this does not happen, then moisture vapor will lead to rotting of the insulation, as a result of which it will lose its properties.

External

With external insulation the situation is much simpler. In this case, there is no need to mount the frame, and any materials with a low degree of thermal conductivity can be used as insulation - sawdust, slag, ecowool, expanded clay, etc. This method of insulation is especially relevant for attic spaces that are not planned to be used as residential premises.

When arranging an attic in the attic, external insulation will be one of the stages of floor installation. Of course, this increases the complexity of installation - you will have to assemble a frame for the floor structure, which will later (after laying the insulation) be sewn up from the outside. You can sheathe the floor with any materials that are used to cover the floor - boards, durable plywood or OSB boards.

Installation of internal insulation of a concrete ceiling

It is much easier to install thermal insulation for concrete floors from the attic side - it will be quite convenient to carry out each stage of the work. However, this is not always possible, so you have to insulate the ceiling in the house from the inside, forming a frame for thermal insulation materials under the ceiling.

For installation you need to prepare the following set of tools in advance:

• Hammer or drill (for drilling holes in the ceiling);
• Screwdriver and drill set;
• Building level;
• Cord and marker for marking.

Also, even before insulating the ceiling, you need to purchase all the building materials:

• Sufficient quantity metal profiles for drywall (a good alternative would be wooden blocks square section 40x40 mm);
• Hangers for profiles;
• Fastening elements (crabs are best suited for suspended ceilings);
• Thermal insulation material (foam boards or mineral wool, or roll insulation);
• Sheets for external cladding frame (plasterboard or plywood);
• Vapor barrier film.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside in a private house is as follows:

1. First you need to apply markings. In order for the structure to ultimately be in its place, the markings must take into account the characteristics of the frame and the room. The frame itself consists of transverse and longitudinal posts, which are attached to each other using “crabs” and held on the ceiling by suspensions.
2. To simplify the work, it is worth mounting the longitudinal posts in such a way that the pitch between them coincides with the width of the selected insulation. However, an excessive increase in pitch (over 80 cm) will also not lead to anything good - as a result, the rigidity of the structure will be insufficient.
3. The marking itself is applied to all the walls along which the frame will be installed. The markings are applied in accordance with the cord, which is pulled between the corners and checked for alignment with a level. Having marked the walls, you need to go to the ceiling and make all the necessary marks on it.
4. Now you need to mount the profiles. First of all, a guide metal profile is installed, which must be positioned in accordance with the markings on the walls.
5. The next step is to install the hangers. These elements are usually located on the ceiling in increments of about 80-90 cm. Having decided on the mounting points, you need to drill the required number of holes in the ceiling.
6. Now it’s time to form the frame by installing the longitudinal and transverse posts. Of course, when installing these profiles you need to follow the markings.
7. IN assembled frame the selected insulation is installed. To keep it in place, you need to bend the edges of the hangers - they will ensure the fixation of the material during installation.
8. Next you need to install a vapor barrier layer. You need to work with the film very carefully - it has a fragile structure and is very easy to damage with anything sharp. The vapor barrier film is carefully stretched between the frame posts and secured with double-sided tape.
9. The last stage is covering the frame. Sheathing sheets must be fastened in such a way that there is a minimum gap between them. The optimal location of the sheets is perpendicular to the guides. The sheets are connected to each other in the middle of the profile. For fixation, self-tapping screws are used, the heads of which need to be slightly recessed into the thickness of the material. The distance between the screws for reliable fastening should be about 30 cm, and about 3-4 cm should be retreated from the corners of the sheet.

When insulating the ceiling with your own hands from inside the house, you need to ensure that there is a gap of at least 1 cm thick between the sheathing and the heat insulator. This gap is necessary to ensure normal ventilation of the structure.

Installation of external thermal insulation

External insulation of floors can have either a single-layer or multi-layer structure. However, regardless of the design of the insulation, you need to try to reduce its total weight, and this is true for any type of floor. If we are talking about bulk materials, then you also need to correctly determine the required layer thickness. For example, sawdust will require about 25 cm, while expanded clay requires a layer 15 cm thick for high-quality insulation.

To move around the attic, you should assemble a simple frame and place boards or slabs on it. It is best to mount the frame from wooden boards or beams. The latter will be an ideal option if the final structure has a small thickness.

The installation algorithm includes the following steps:

1. First you need to decide on the installation step of the frame elements. It is best to start from the width of the selected insulation so that it is convenient to install.
2. Next you need to decide exactly how the transverse and longitudinal elements of the frame will be installed.
3. Boards according to ready-made circuit are installed with their ends in place and fixed using metal corners and self-tapping screws.

External insulation can be performed using a variety of thermal insulation materials - mineral wool, polystyrene foam or bulk insulation. You have to choose the material individually, depending on your financial capabilities and requirements. It is worth considering several options in more detail.

Styrofoam

Insulation foam boards– this is the simplest option. The foam has fixed dimensions, which allows you to avoid trimming by pre-assembling the frame taking this parameter into account. To the dimensions of the slabs themselves special requirements not presented - standard sheets can be a meter or half a meter wide, and this difference will not affect the quality of insulation.

Another thing is the brand of foam. When it comes to insulation attic floor, then the best option would be C25. The density of this brand is quite high, due to which low thermal conductivity is achieved. If necessary, you can purchase more expensive C35 foam or polyurethane foam - these materials are considered the most reliable.

Minvata

One more good option are materials based on mineral fibers. All these materials have excellent performance qualities, but they also have a common drawback - mineral wool is very hygroscopic. This suggests that when moisture gets into the material, it absorbs it and loses it. most their properties.

It is because of this drawback that the possibilities for using mineral wool are limited. However, this limitation can be circumvented, for which you will have to take care of high-quality waterproofing of the attic and ceiling so that the material does not have the opportunity to come into contact even with moisture vapor, not to mention direct contact.

Sawdust

One of the answers to the question of how to fill the ceiling in a house is sawdust. Sawdust is the cheapest thermal insulation material that is suitable for external insulation. However, low cost can be called perhaps the only advantage of this material. Sawdust is an organic material that can rot, so it must be mixed with lime before use.

You can also mix a solution consisting of 10 parts water, one part water and one part sawdust. When the ceiling is insulated with sawdust, the mixing process looks exactly the same as when mixing concrete. The resulting composition is used to completely fill the space in the frame. Before covering, the material must be left for some time to dry.

Expanded clay

The most convenient bulk insulation is expanded clay. It is a granular material having particles different sizes. To maximize the insulation efficiency, when backfilling you need to alternate small granules with large ones - as a result, there will be fewer voids in the layer, and this will improve the quality of thermal insulation.

The insulation technology when using expanded clay is no different from any other bulk materials. First you need to install the formwork (frame), and then fill it with an even layer of granules.

Ecowool

The raw materials for the production of ecowool are not environmentally friendly clean materials, as the name might suggest, and various waste - newspapers, bags or cardboard. The components are treated with acid, due to which the finished material has minimal flammability and is well protected from biological influences.

Among the advantages of ecowool, it is worth noting, first of all, its low thermal conductivity, which ensures good insulation, and the ability to transmit steam, due to which the material is not susceptible to fungus and mold. In addition, this material is very easy to install and is quite suitable for do-it-yourself insulation.

Insulation of the ceiling with ecowool in a private house can be carried out dry, wet and glue method. The first method is quite simple - the material is simply placed in a frame and compacted. For the second and third methods, you need special equipment that allows you to spray ecowool on the desired areas.

Polyurethane foam

IN modern construction Polyurethane foam is very popular, which, among other purposes, is also used for insulation. This material is available in the form of foam, which can be applied to any type of surface. Distinctive feature is that there is no need for any fastenings - this insulation for the ceiling inside a country house independently sticks to everything it comes into contact with.

Among the main advantages of polyurethane foam, the following qualities are worth noting:

• Low flammability;
• No toxic emissions;
• Good chemical resistance;
• Low hygroscopicity;
• Long service life.

Sprayed polyurethane foam forms a solid layer that has no cracks or gaps, resulting in low thermal conductivity. However, steam can easily pass through the pores of the material, so there is no need to install a vapor barrier. To apply this insulation to the coating, it must first be dried (for concrete floors the permissible moisture level is 4%, and for wooden floors - 12%).

Areas that should not be insulated must be well covered before work (plastic film or thick fabric is quite suitable). Polyurethane foam is applied in layers, subject to constant control of the spray thickness. The next layer can be applied only after the previous one has completely hardened. Being the most expensive insulation, polyurethane is very easy to apply and perfectly performs its functions.

Conclusion

Ceiling insulation in a private house can be done in several ways. In some cases you will have to put in more effort, in others it will be easier, but you will have to pay more. The main thing is that for any conditions you can choose the best option that will be quite profitable and effective.

Those who consider insulating a ceiling with a cold roof unnecessary should remember about condensation and significant heat loss in winter. Drops of condensation forming on the ceiling and inclined surfaces when the temperature changes, they fall by the collar and completely - a very unpleasant sensation at any time of the year.

Warm air rises upward according to the law of convection - for further circulation. When it receives significant cooling from a cold ceiling, heating the room can be considered ineffective.

That is why any method of insulating the roof, ceiling and attic space is considered the most effective measure of heat conservation.

How to insulate the ceilings and attics of private houses?

When building private houses, everyone wants to save money. But no one will dispute that cheap building materials are not effective or have a limited service life. It is better to master installation technology, where available, in order to save on installing insulation yourself.

Attention: The more technologically advanced each stage of construction is carried out from quality materials the longer the house will last without requiring major renovation. This is the essence of saving for the future.

Any construction supermarket will offer full list insulation materials that are used during roof construction or after completion of rough work.

They are available in different forms:

• rolled materials;
• porous briquettes;
• sheet insulation;
• sprayed two-component mixtures;
• bulk materials;
• fiber insulation;
• foil wrapper.

The choice of insulation for the ceiling of a particular building depends on the type of surface and temperature conditions in the interior.

In this case, we are talking mainly about external insulation - attic or attic floors (on the other side of the ceiling of living rooms in residential buildings). For example, they use materials that are not suitable for energy saving methods in a bathhouse where there is a high level of humidity, and vice versa.

In some cases it is necessary to use special equipment. You can’t do without it when spraying with polyurethane foam.

But this method is indispensable when it comes to processing inclined and negative surfaces, metal frame and a combination of materials of different textures used when installing roofs of complex shapes.

It is much easier to insulate the joists with sawdust or expanded clay (of any fraction). They refer to bulk materials, which do not require complex installation.

Apart from leveling, nothing needs to be done with them; then the substrate and cladding are laid, if this is a residential attic. For an empty attic, you can leave bulk materials without any fastening.

Tip: In some areas bulk insulation materials are free. In coastal areas, this is dry seaweed that a storm throws onto the coast. In the area of ​​the sawmill and wood processing enterprises there is a lot of sawdust, shavings and crushed bark.

Internal insulation of the attic along the beams and rafters - laying mineral wool with large briquettes, but the floors ( back side ceilings) must be insulated.

Specifics of a cold roof and its insulation

Relying on modern technologies, any roof is erected like a multi-layer sandwich or sandwich, hence the borrowed name. Hydro- and vapor barrier, thermal insulation and multi-layer roofing are expected.

It is necessary to treat building materials with fungicides (from fungi), antiseptics and chemicals to prevent mice from breeding in the attic. Rodents easily climb stairs and any inclined or porous surface.

Cold roofing is a dubious economy, but it is appropriate in different cases:

• For country houses, which are not used in winter;
• for auxiliary buildings;
• with high-quality insulation of the ceiling in the house (outside and from the attic);
• when the foundation is on unstable soils, it cannot be subjected to a large load in the form of several floors and an insulated roof of an intricate configuration;
• if the attic or attic is not used for living rooms, and the house is quite warm, built using energy-saving technology, and also in the form of a log house (made of natural wood).

In these cases, it is necessary to insulate the ceiling in a house under a cold roof.

At the same time, all communications, chimneys and heating pipes passing through the attic are insulated with rolled, foil and sprayed materials.

The advantages of such insulation:

• Comfortable microclimate all year round.
• Minimum temperature difference.
• Additional sound insulation from the roof (rain, hail, gusty winds).
• Prevents the formation of condensation.
• Energy saving.

If possible, overlap between top floor and non-residential attic space cold type produce in both directions.

You can use suspended and suspended ceilings, multilayer structures made of gypsum plasterboard, behind which it is easy to hide wires and communications. Good example– in the photo of the ceiling insulation.

Tip: If possible, use non-flammable materials or non-flammable to reduce the likelihood of fire to a minimum.

Common insulation materials

Keep in mind that high-quality insulation can only be comprehensive - windows and doors, external and internal surfaces.

Spray polyurethane foam

To do it yourself, you need to rent a special mixing unit two-component composition, which is supplied through a sprayer with nozzles in the form of “snow flakes”.

They stick well to any surface, even those not treated with expensive primers. The advantage is that the tube feeds everything hard to reach places in the attics.

Expanded clay

Bulk material in the form of small pebbles based on clay, which is scattered over the entire horizontal surface of the attic.

Cellulose ecowool

It resembles flakes, which are also sprinkled over the surface without any fixation.

Foam sheets and rolls

A popular material, since foam insulation is one of the most available means. It can be placed in specially prepared cells or stitched layer by layer over the entire surface.

Mineral or stone wool

Practical non-flammable fibrous porous material that does not harbor mice and insects. Produced in sheets, briquettes and rolls.

Today, insulation with mineral or basalt wool remains the most popular due to the properties of the material and convenient packaging.

Wood waste

Available insulation. Although wood is a combustible material, it will not ignite without oxygen supply and preheating. But to guarantee, additional treatment with a fire-fighting mixture is recommended.

Disadvantage - you can introduce wood pests that can cause damage. wooden floors roofs.

As natural insulation materials There is waste in every area Agriculture or vegetable waste suitable for these purposes. These are cake and husks, hay and straw, crushed reeds and corn, fallen leaves and pine needles.

They can be mixed, used separately, if there is no other alternative, poured over expanded clay. A layer of 5-7 cm is enough for the heat retention to be noticeable.

To reduce the likelihood of ignition, it is better to mix plant waste with clay or sprinkle sand on top. Plant mixtures are susceptible to rotting, so over time you will have to replace the old layer with new insulation.

The laid wires need additional insulation, so they are usually enclosed in hollow corrugated tubes made of non-flammable polymers. Keep in mind that each heat-insulating material has its own installation method and service life.

Photo of ceiling insulation