Which is better varnish or wax? Parquet wax or how to make parquet shine

Modern materials They are made from both natural oils (soybean, tall oil, sunflower, linseed, etc.) and artificial ones, into which polyurethane additives can be added, which increases the wear resistance of the coating. Waxes are mainly of natural origin (carnauba, candelilla, etc.). White spirit is usually used as a solvent.

Now about oils with hard wax. The definition of hard wax implies that the composition applied to the floor will increase its hardness and wear resistance. Naturally, there is no solid wax in the package - it is contained in the solution.

Distinguish oil impregnations with a large amount of solvent (dry residue - from 25 to 40%), medium viscosity (dry residue - 40-55%) and thick (80-90% of the main substance). The larger the dry residue, the faster material dries and absorbs less, which means fewer layers are required. A composition with a large amount of solvent is used either as a floor care product (penetrating deeply into the wood, it renews and restores the protective properties of the impregnation).

When to use oil

• When covering a variety of exotic wood species, the structure of which contains a large number of natural oils.
• When there are indoors significant differences temperature and humidity (for example, ).
• When covering plank floors, parquet laid on in-floor heating systems, as well as parquet made from capricious species that quickly respond to changes in air humidity in the room.
• During processing wooden floors on open verandas, platforms. Varnish can withstand a certain number of freeze-thaw cycles, while its opponent has no such restrictions.
• When covering wooden floors that are often in contact with water (swimming pools, bathrooms, etc.) - approximately this technology has long been used to treat wooden decks of ships.
• When to add color. Can be purchased ready-made composition required color, buy products different colors, which can be mixed with each other. You can also add color using special paste-like colorants.
• To restore and rest your feet, physiotherapists recommend walking barefoot on an oiled floor - this massages your feet, since the coating perfectly preserves the texture of the wood surface, while the varnish evens it out.

Properties of varnish for wooden floors

The material is a solution with some chemicals that, when applied, create a film. The thickness of the film depends on the thickness of the applied layer.

Varnish has qualitative advantages, including elasticity, uniformity and high adhesion to wood. There are several types of compositions based on the type of finish: matte, semi-matte or glossy. Also, the choice depends on what room it will be used for: residential or public.

When to apply varnish

• If you don’t want to take care of the coating and...
• When you need to increase the sliding property - this may be relevant in gyms or, for example, dance studios. For residential areas it is rather a minus.
• When there is no desire to feel living tree under your feet. The varnish still neutralizes tactility.
• If you know that wet cleaning will be required often. Varnish is not afraid of moisture, unlike its opponent.

Choosing what to cover a wooden floor with: oil or varnish

Surface protection

The varnish forms a rather thick protective film that lies on the surface of the wood, barely clinging to it, since it is absorbed to a depth of a fraction of a millimeter. The oil penetrates into the thickness of the parquet block, into the pores of the wood, and only a small amount remains on the surface. Protective film as such is not formed, but the tree itself becomes stronger and more wear-resistant. Wax allows you to enhance this effect. If a product with hard wax is used to cover the floor, no additional application of the material is required - almost all of it remains on the surface of the wood. If a wax-free material is used, then it is additionally applied to the surface using a special composition. Compositions with polyurethane additives, as a rule, do not require the use of wax.

The described protection mechanism has certain advantages over varnish film. As you know, wood gains and releases moisture during use. Moreover, if both materials resist the accumulation of moisture approximately equally (they are moisture protection, but not waterproofing), then with its return the picture is completely different. Moisture cannot escape through the varnish film, which is why the coating cracks and peels off. Oiled wood is permeable to vapors, which freely leave it through the pores. As a result, the floor never peels and lasts 8-12 years.

Gloss level

The degree of gloss of oil with and without wax can be different: the surface is matte, silky-matte, semi-matte, semi-gloss, glossy.

As for the degree of gloss, for varnished floors it can even be adjusted, depending on the thickness of the applied layer: from glossy to ultra-matte.

Application technology

The oil application process generally looks like this. Parquet using sandpapers with grains P24, P30, P60 and P80, then the cracks are puttied. Can be applied to small surfaces with a soft rubber spatula, roller or wide brush (each manufacturer may have their own preferences that should be taken into account). Apply oil evenly thin layer. After this, it is allowed to soak in, and then the excess is removed and the surface is polished. When processing large surfaces in all operations, use grinding machine. If the product is applied in several layers, then the operations are repeated.

Then the oil hardens over a period of time (minimum 12 hours). Before full load (furniture installation), it is advisable to withstand the floor for another 3-4 days.

Applying varnish to parquet is a much longer and more complex process, requiring compliance with a number of conditions. Firstly, the room must maintain a certain temperature and humidity. Secondly, it is important to thoroughly clean the surface. Thirdly, eliminate drafts. You won't be able to make do with improvised means either - you also need special tools, and clothes. And what is most difficult is that it is impossible to redo the work quickly if there is a mistake, so many people do not risk applying the product themselves.

Care

Maintenance of oiled floors is extremely simple. Moreover, each manufacturing company offers its own set of care products. To be added to water special remedy, which, firstly, softens water and, secondly, removes dirt well. And manufacturers that produce products with wax also renew their coating (they contain hard wax).

As for dry cleaning, it is recommended to treat the floors with a cleaning agent once every six months to a year. It is applied to the floor and rubbed with a special mop attachment or floor polisher. After it dries, the effect of renewing the floor surface appears.

If speak about wet cleaning varnished parquet - only a well-wrung out cloth will do, and the detergent must have neutral acidity. During dry cleaning, you can use a vacuum cleaner or broom. It is important to use a vacuum cleaner or mop carefully to avoid scratches, since partial restoration is impossible.

High-gloss coatings increase the appearance of a room, but require more careful maintenance. Floors coated with a matte or silky-matte product are much easier to care for simply because damage to their surface is less noticeable.

Partial restoration

With damaged areas of the oiled floor, proceed as follows: wash the floor using a cleaning product, then strip it down to the wood and treat it with a new layer. After this, if necessary, apply protective layer with hard wax.

Local repair of damaged varnish coating is not possible, only complete renewal.

Conclusion

Oil on the surface wooden floor not only gives it high wear resistance, but also preserves the natural texture of the wood and even the surface topography. The feeling arises that under your foot there is a warm, living tree, not covered with anything. Special compounds are applied much easier and faster than varnish. The oiled surface can be wet cleaned. And most importantly, a floor treated in this way can be restored in parts, and not, as is the case with varnish, by sanding and re-coating the entire surface.

Varnish coating- a wonderful thing. It's beautiful and demanding minimal care. But it requires periodic restoration - a complex and time-consuming procedure.

By the way, when choosing, also pay attention to the possibility of reverse changes. If you want to replace the varnish, it will be quite easy to do: it does not penetrate deeply into the wood and is relatively easy to sand off the surface of the parquet. But with the reverse transition from oil to varnish, problems may arise. The oil penetrates quite deeply into the parquet tiles and it is very difficult to sand off the layer saturated with it - you will have to remove about 2 mm. If with a working layer of parquet of about 7 mm, a loss of 2 mm can somehow be tolerated, then for thinner parquet this is simply unacceptable. But even such deep grinding does not guarantee a successful result. The oil will still remain in the deep pores, which means the floor will need to be coated with a primer.

Wood has been used by humans for a long time for the construction and decoration of houses, the manufacture of furniture and interior items. This material remains popular today due to its environmental friendliness and decorative qualities. However, wood products require protection from external damage, minor scratches, moisture, and dirt. To protect wood and to emphasize the texture and beauty of natural patterns, various coatings are used.

Among possible options wood processing, waxing has the advantage of being an environmentally friendly method for which natural remedies. Thus, many wooden products coated with wax can be safely used even in children's rooms.
The advantage of wax over varnish is not only its naturalness, but also that, while covering and protecting the surface, it does not clog the pores of the wood, and the wood breathes. Unlike varnishes, which create a film. Wherein appearance only wins, the water-repellent properties of the wax are good, the coating is durable.

Scope of application of liquid wax

Depending on the consistency and composition, wax is divided into liquid, solid and water. Each type of wax has its own area of ​​application.
Thus, liquid wax is especially convenient when it is necessary to treat a surface with a complex relief shape. For example, furniture richly decorated with carved elements. Hard wax is applied with a piece of soft cloth, and in this case it will not work.

Liquid wax is applied with a brush, easily spreads over the surface of any shape, and is used to cover the most complex and delicate decorative elements. It is possible to play with the color saturation depending on how many layers of liquid wax are applied. There are options to make the surface shiny or matte.
As a rule, liquid wax for wood contains beeswax and a natural solvent – ​​turpentine.

Making liquid wax at home

This wax can be prepared at home. To do this you will need beeswax and turpentine in a ratio of 1:2 to obtain liquid product. The wax is crushed and melted in a steam bath or in microwave oven. Then carefully and constantly stirring, pour in turpentine. If the mixture turns out to be too liquid, the procedure is repeated, heating the solution and adding more crushed wax.
Sometimes a small amount of "carnauba wax" is added. It is not a bee product, but a hard tree resin extracted from palm leaves in Brazil. Thanks to carnauba wax, the coating becomes stronger.

Depending on what kind of wax is used, a waxing composition of different shades is obtained. So, to preserve the natural light color wood, it is recommended to cover it with a composition based on bleached wax. Other options give rich honey tones.
When working with turpentine, you should follow safety precautions and ventilate the room well.

Liquid wax based on linseed oil. Cooking at home.
Vegetable oils can be used as solvents instead of turpentine. Thus, it turns out absolutely safe remedy with a pleasant smell, which even covers children's furniture or wooden toys.

To prepare this product at home, take natural beeswax and linseed oil in a ratio of 1:4. Flaxseed oil should be boiled first. Sometimes it is replaced with olive oil. But flaxseed is absorbed much better, so it is preferable to use it.
Beeswax is crushed and combined with vegetable oil in a glass container. Then it is heated in a water bath. You can use the microwave. Ready mix stored for a year without losing its properties. Store in a closed container in a cool place, avoid exposure to direct sunlight.

Industrial liquid wax

Into liquid wax industrial production substances are usually added that accelerate the drying process - driers, rosin esters to enhance adhesion, and various others to improve the elasticity and wear resistance of the coating.
Therefore, it is sometimes more convenient to use, and the waxing process takes less time. Liquid industrial wax is also tinted. After applying tinted wax, surfaces of different color shades are obtained. From brown and bronze to mahogany and ebony - there is something for every taste.
You can prepare a coating composition at home with ideal consistency on the first try. experienced craftsmen, beginners will have to experiment. Therefore, ready-made industrial molds are more convenient for beginners.

Applying liquid wax

It is more convenient to apply liquid wax to the product with a hard brush, especially if we are talking about embossed decorative elements. Before the first use, a new brush must be cleaned - remove excess hairs that are poorly attached and will immediately end up on the surface, which will not decorate the coating. The most suitable brushes are made from natural bristles; brushes for oil painting are suitable. There are also special brushes for liquid wax on the market. They are distinguished from ordinary brushes by the bristled bristles at the ends.
On a new wooden product, homemade liquid wax is applied in one layer. Then wooden surface leave for at least 1 hour. After the composition has been absorbed, its excess is removed with a piece of clean cloth. Otherwise, greasy stains may remain on the surface. Any non-lint soft fabric, even a waffle towel, is suitable for these purposes. The result is a beautiful, noble matte surface, texture natural wood becomes manifest. If desired, you can apply another layer of wax, and then polish the product using a cloth or a roll of thin metal wire. In this case, the surface will acquire a characteristic shine. For the second layer you need very little composition, since the main part has already been absorbed into the pores of the wood.

Surface preparation before applying liquid wax

If wooden product not new, but we are talking about restoration, for example, then the surface must be carefully prepared before applying liquid wax.
First, remove the old varnish or polish. A solvent is used for this. A single treatment will not be enough; the procedure is repeated several times until the old varnish is completely removed. Residues are carefully washed off with warm water, the most solvent-resistant areas are rubbed down. sandpaper.
After this, the wood is rubbed with a stiff brush in order to remove the old coating even from the pores and grooves.
After drying, the products go to final stage preparation. Sand the wood with a sharp carpenter's knife - a scraper or sandpaper. All manipulations are carried out strictly in the direction of the wood fibers. Moreover, there should be no protruding fibers left - everything is cut off and sanded. The result should be a perfectly smooth matte surface, now the wood is ready to be treated with liquid wax.
The further application procedure is the same as in the case of a new surface - cloth or brush, in one or two layers, in the direction of the grain.

Application of industrial liquid wax

Ready-made industrial forms of liquid wax are applied in accordance with the instructions on the packaging. Manufacturers include various substances that affect drying speed. There are products that, after applying the first layer, are not recommended to be left on the surface for more than 10 minutes, after which they should be immediately wiped with a cloth to remove excess coating. Some compounds take longer to be absorbed.

Some manufacturers offer liquid wax in spray form. Its composition does not differ from its analogues applied with a brush, but is available in the form of a bottle with a sprayer. Just shake the can and apply the composition to the surface from a distance of 25 cm. After a while, wipe with a piece of soft cloth, evenly distributing the coating. After drying, the product can be polished to a shine if desired. Liquid wax in the form of a spray is produced both colorless and tinted.

In any case, it is always worth doing a test painting. small area before starting to process the entire surface of the product.
According to safety precautions, all materials soaked with liquid wax during work, such as rags and sponges, should be thrown away or stored in airtight containers. It does not spontaneously combust, but is flammable. The room should be ventilated during and after work.

Features of the use of waxed products

With all the advantages of the method of treating wood with liquid wax, it should be remembered that wax is a material sensitive to high temperatures. Under their influence he “floats”. Therefore, you need to take into account the features of the room in which future furniture or wood products will be used. Although the heat resistance of some modern industrial samples of liquid wax reaches 100 0C. However, you should not wax your kitchen work surfaces. If you accidentally spill hot food or place heated dishes, traces will remain. Which can only be removed by repeated waxing.

Wax is not compatible with products containing alcohol. When choosing a care product for waxed furniture, you should carefully read the composition and instructions. In general, you just need to wipe it dry. soft cloth, and to remove dirt or fingerprints, from time to time use special cleaners that are necessarily marked “for waxed surfaces.”

Subject to application technology and proper care coating wood products with liquid wax will provide long term service and noble appearance.

The use of wax compositions in decoupage of boxes and other things is becoming increasingly popular. There are many compositions, but they vary greatly in price, and the properties have not yet been widely explored in wide circles. I hope this article will be useful addition to the article by Elena Popova About stains, waxes and oils.

I have handled 4 wax compositions, and I want to compare them.

Product No. 1 - Colorless floor mastic with orange aroma from Bitumast

Retail price: about 80 rubles

Smell chemical, not very pleasant, medium strength. Doesn't look like an orange :)

Melting: not required, soft, easy to apply.

Drying: It stains your hands a little during the first hours, but only slightly after rubbing and polishing. It catches dust and lint. A coat of shellac varnish may be needed.

Color change untreated wood: slightly darkens, slightly yellows.

Glossiness: matte, after polishing matte, slightly silky.

Scuffs: Suitable for creating abrasions.

Product No. 2 – Wax varnish Maimeri 721

Retail price: 209 rubles

Smell chemical, closer to weak, a mixture of white spirit and honey. As it dries, more and more honey.

Melting: takes a few minutes under warm water, can be warmed in warm hands.

Drying: up to 24 hours, depending on the thickness of the layer, it may stick even after (a layer of shellac varnish solves the problem)

Color change untreated wood: adds a slight honey tint, increases the intensity of the colors.

Glossiness: silky matte/semi-matte. After polishing it is more matte.

Scuffs It is not convenient to create it - at work, abrasions are more likely to arise from sandpaper or from scratching with a hard sponge. It cannot be said that this varnish greatly facilitates the process of peeling paints.

Product #3 - Stamperia Clear Finishing Wax

Retail price: from 360 RUR

Smell

Melting: Not necessary, some are melted in a water bath. After melting it looks like “muddy water”.

Drying: does not stain your hands after just a few minutes.

Color change untreated wood: minor. Emphasizes colors.

Glossiness: matte before and after polishing.

Scuffs It's easy to create on it.

Product No. 4 – Stamperia Dark Wax Polish

Not much different from its transparent brother :)

Retail price: from 260 RUR

Smell chemical, pleasant before melting, intense chemical after melting. After drying it is pleasant again.

Melting: Not necessarily, some are melted in a water bath. Once melted, the consistency and color resemble thick hot chocolate fondue sauce.

Drying: After just a few minutes it does not stain your hands.

Color change untreated wood: greatly darkens the surface. (by the way, if you apply it over clear Stamperia wax, it doesn’t give the shade as intensely)

Glossiness: matte. After polishing it is silky, the most shiny of all 4 options.

Scuffs It’s easy to create on it + it slightly stains/aging light paint when working with a hard sponge.

Well, photos of my experiments:

Summary:

1. Due to the long drying period and stickiness, I consider Maimeri 721 wax varnish the most inconvenient option.

2. “Floor mastic” - I consider it a quite tolerable substitute for professional waxes. Its advantages are low cost and ease of use (no need to prepare for a long time before application). Cons: smell and dirtiness.

3. Stamperia waxes are an option for those who are serious about waxing and are not too lazy to go through the tedious procedure of warming up in a water bath every time (however, the comments suggest that this is not necessary). But this wait pays off with the speed of drying and the result. They do not require any additional coating.

4. Dark wax polish “Stamperia” - interesting option replacing stains and staining compounds. It polishes well and shines beautifully. I recommend trying it.

For various reasons, there may be a need to replace one protective composition with another after their application or after some time of operation of the already treated surface. The desire or need to treat a surface with Oil and wax that was previously varnished or to apply a harder and wear-resistant varnish to the surface instead of oil and wax may be required due to an initially incorrectly selected protective coating for a particular surface of a house or bathhouse or due to a selection error protective composition handler. And also if the customer overestimated the protective characteristics of the composition he chose, made mistakes when using the treated surface as a result of not regularly updating the applied protective finishing coating, or in cases where there is a need to restore damaged areas of wood, which is only possible with impregnation of a different class.

lookapplying Oil and Wax to the Varnish.

The choice between varnish, paint, wood oil and wood wax is best made right away. This will avoid additional expenses and some difficulties that may arise when changing the protective coating different types.
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In order to apply oil or wax to a previously varnished or painted wooden surface, the varnish and paint will have to be COMPLETELY removed. These requirements will have to be met, because Through a hard film of varnish or an oil film, even if cracked and partially, it will be impossible to evenly saturate and correctly apply wood oil, much less thick wax. The only thing that makes the task easier is that the varnish lies directly on the surface of the wood and can be applied quite easily cleared using a sander, grinder, sanding logs or timber, or sanding floorboards or parquet. Once the layer of varnish or paint is removed from the wood, wood oil and wood wax or hard wax mastic can be applied to the wood surface.

If for some reason you decide to apply a protective layer of varnish to a wooden surface that has previously been treated with oil or wax, then the possible result will depend on:

• The type of oil or wax previously applied to the surface,
• Operating time of the oil-treated surface,
• Number of oil layers during surface treatment,
• How many times did the mandatory renewal of the protective layer occur?
• Time that has passed since last update protective layer with oil or wax.

Wax and Wood Oil penetrate quite deeply into the capillary structure of wood and it is usually very difficult to completely remove it, as is most often recommended by many manufacturers, including manufacturers of varnishes and paints.
So we can assume that you will have two options possible solution assigned task:

1. If the oil or wax layer is dense enough, then you can try to scrape the surface with a scraper or grind it with a grinder with abrasive attachments with different grains. Looping and grinding can occur to a depth of up to 2 mm. Next, it is recommended to process the cleaned, sanded or scraped wood primer. The primer will bind any remaining oil that has penetrated more than 2 mm into the wood. As a primer, you can use impregnating primers that are recommended by the varnish manufacturer or that you have chosen.
   
2. You can try using a universal one, which quickly polymerizes, i.e. The plastic residues of oil that have penetrated and are located deep in the capillaries of the treated wood will become thick and hard.

We recommend choosing carefully protective covering depending on the conditions of its use and purpose, and do not forget to periodically perform the recommended renewal of the protective layer of the protective impregnation you have chosen.

Details about the advantages and disadvantages different impregnations for floor treatment, find out on the individual pages of our website by following the links at the bottom of this page or by selecting a ready-made answer to your question in the " " or " " section in the site header. If you encounter any difficulties in selecting the necessary impregnations, call the numbers indicated on the website and receive round-the-clock FREE consultation from our specialists.

Find out in more detail all about finishing protective impregnations, wood oil, wax, floor varnish, paint and wood glaze:

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← , Wood oil, Furniture oil, Furniture oil, Impregnation on linseed oil

← . Wax for furniture. Furniture wax. Liquid wax and Hard wax for wood. Wax mastic.

← , Varnish for logs and beams, Floor varnish, Parquet varnish, Wood paint. Azure.

← . Colored oil wax. How to tint wood oil. Tinting oil with pigment.

Concentrated varnish from the Vernenskaya manufactory is used as a topcoat (for example, for Shabby paint) and independently for any decorative work. Protects and enhances the natural color of wood.

Odorless, non-toxic, safe for health and the environment.

Tara

250 ml, 500 ml, 1l

Consumption

30–40 m2/l, depending on surface porosity

Application method

Apply with a brush, roller or sponge.

Working conditions

Before use, the varnish concentrate must be diluted with water in a separate container in an approximate proportion of ⅓–¼ (where one part varnish, three parts water). Apply a thin layer to a completely dry surface. Liquid varnish has a milky tint, but when dried it becomes completely transparent.

Usually one or two coats are enough, but surfaces that are constantly used (for example, a tabletop) can be coated with three layers of varnish. To apply each subsequent layer, the previous one must be completely dry.

Wash brushes and tools with warm water and detergent immediately after use.

Attention: Do not use lacquer concentrate undiluted.

Drying time

20–60 minutes

The varnish coating reaches its final hardness after seven days.

Storage

Store at a temperature of +5–+40ºС.

Waxes

Vernensky wax is used both as a finishing coating (for example, for SHABBY paint) and as a protective layer for wood. Emphasizes the natural color and texture of wood and creates a water-repellent surface with a light satin shine.

Based on natural beeswax.

Tara

250 ml, 500 ml

Consumption

60–80 m2/l, that is, a small jar of wax is enough to cover an area of ​​15–20 m2

Application method

Apply with a bristle brush or lint-free cloth

To achieve a vintage effect, you can use colored waxes over clear waxes. To do this, you need to leave the colored wax only in the recesses of the wood, removing the excess with a soft cloth. To make this easy, the layer of transparent wax must be tightly applied.

Drying time

The surface is ready for use almost immediately.

Complete hardening of the wax takes from five to thirty days.

Storage

Store at a temperature of -10–+40ºС.