Astilbe flower - planting and care in open ground, the best varieties and methods of propagation. Astilbe planting and care in open ground types and varieties photos with names propagation by cuttings Astilbe cultivation and care in the garden

• Species: Saxifraga
• Flowering period: June July August
• Height: 8-200cm
• Color: pink, burgundy, lilac, snow-white
• perennial
• Winters
• Shade-loving
• Moisture-loving

The herbaceous perennial astilbe is highly valued experienced flower growers and by novice lovers for its lush flowering. And its name, which arose from the merger of two words “a” and “stilbe”, is a clear confirmation of this, translated from Greek meaning the expression “very brilliant”. Spreading bushes look unusually impressive even after flowering - dissected green leaves remain attractive throughout the entire garden season. When planning to plant this unusual perennial, it is important to know how to properly plant and care for astilbe. Knowing the subtleties and nuances in caring for this unpretentious crop, you can create beautiful plant compositions.

Astilbe in natural conditions grows in deciduous forests North America and East Asia, which are characterized by a humid climate.

Astilbe is a favorite of shady gardens, decorated with spectacular inflorescences collected from a variety of openwork flowers of purple, lilac, pink and snow-white shades

The plant has erect, thin stems, the height of which, depending on the species, can reach one and a half meters or more.

The woody rhizome of the plant annually forms new buds, from which stems grow in the spring, and die off with the onset of cold weather. The annual growth of the rhizome itself is about 5 cm. In the fall, each time the roots that have developed over the summer and are exposed are sprinkled with fertile soil.

The stems of the perennial are decorated with elegant pinnate, dissected or long-petioled leaves of dark green color. And the picture is completed by apical inflorescences of a pyramidal, paniculate or diamond-shaped form, delighting with flowering during the season for 25-40 days. After flowering, the flowers collected in panicles form fruit-boxes filled with small seeds.

Astilbe has been used in landscape design since the beginning of the 20th century. Thanks to the variety of shapes and rich color palette of inflorescences, designers use it to bring the most daring ideas to life.

Astilbe bushes look appropriate against the background of picturesque alpine hills or group plantings of conifers with their rich green needle-like foliage

Landscaping with astilbe is often included when designing artificial reservoirs, planting the perennial as a frame for the source. Bells can be a worthy addition to a picturesque corner.

It looks harmonious in flower arrangements. A successful neighborhood can be achieved by planting shade-loving ferns and ferns next to astilbe. Dwarf varieties This beautifully flowering perennial is a real decoration for a small shady flower garden. In the spring, while the leaves on the astilbe have not yet blossomed, the empty space around it in the flower garden can be filled with miniature crocuses and snowdrops.

Plants with large, dense leaves help balance the openwork foliage of a perennial: hosta, rogersia, bergenia, mantle, kupena, lilies of the valley, hellebore

One of the reasons for the popularity of astilbe is its ability to live in the shade of trees. Feeling comfortable even in shady conditions, it never ceases to delight with colorful flowering. When cut, exquisite astilbe inflorescences are used in bouquets and to create floral arrangements.

Popular varieties of astilbe

In ornamental gardening, there are about two hundred varieties of astilbe, created on the basis of a dozen species. The most popular hybrid groups are: Japanese astilbe, Arendsa, simple-leaved and Chinese.

Japonica Hybrida

Hybrids of Japanese astilbe have a height of 40-80 cm. The stems are decorated with foliage with a pronounced ornament, the color of which ranges from soft green to reddish-brown. Dense diamond-shaped inflorescences are colored in shades of crimson, red and white.

The most famous varieties: “Montgomery” with burgundy inflorescences, “Rheinland” with pink-salmon panicles, “Deutschland” with white airy inflorescences

The dense inflorescences of plants in this group bloom much earlier than other varieties. Even after drying, they remain decorative, decorating the flower garden until the onset of winter.

Arendsii Hybrida

The species is named after its creator, breeder G. Arends, and is represented by 40 varieties. The height of medium-sized crops reaches 0.6-1 m. The stems are decorated with dark green foliage with a burgundy edging, spherical or cone-shaped, and spectacular inflorescences in cream, yellow and pink shades.

Stilbe simplicifolia

Simple-leaved astilbe does not tolerate arid climates. It is distinguished by pale green undivided leaves with a glossy surface and unusual pyramidal inflorescences resembling drooping panicles.

The most beautiful varieties of this group: “Bronze Elegans” with soft bronze inflorescences, “Straussenfeder” with bright coral flowers, “Praecox Alba” with lush white “candles”

Astilbe Chinensis

Chinese astilbe has a powerful rhizome, which, as it grows, displaces neighboring plants. The perennial stems, whose height does not exceed 110 cm, are decorated with lacy foliage framed by thin golden hairs and dense inflorescences of white, lilac and pink flowers.

The most beautiful varieties are considered: “Vision in Red” with bronze-green foliage and lilac-red flowers, “Vision in Pink” with blue-green foliage and light pink panicles, “Purpurlanze” with purple flowers on reddish stems

To decorate suburban areas, it is better to choose medium-sized varieties of crops. They are more resistant to adverse climatic conditions.

Numerous cultural varieties are conventionally divided into:

• Dwarf - up to 30 cm high.
• Low-growing - up to 60 cm.
• Medium height - up to 90 cm.
• Tall - up to one and a half meters.

Different varieties of this perennial also differ in terms of flowering time: early ones delight with flowering already in early June, medium-sized hybrids arrange bright accents in midsummer, and late bloomers decorate the garden with colorful “torches” towards the end of the season.

Methods for propagating perennials

A shrub can grow in one place for up to five years, after which it must be rejuvenated. Perennials are propagated like in early spring, and in late autumn, using the vegetative or seed method.

Method #1 – vegetative

This method involves dividing the rhizome into 2-3 parts, each of which contains a faded stem with a dormant bud. When propagated vegetatively, astilbe can be planted at any time. The main thing is to provide a sufficient amount of moisture in the first days after transplantation.

The bushes also take root well during the flowering period, provided that the same humidity regime is maintained.

At vegetative way the lignified rhizome is dug out of the ground, washed in water and cut into several sections using pruning shears or a shovel

The rhizome should be divided in such a way that in each cut plot there are 2-3 replacement buds at the base, from which young shoots will then emerge.

The size of the plot is not significant; a section of rhizome 3-5 cm long will be sufficient. They are planted at a distance of 30 cm from each other. The very next season, the planted plots are actively growing and sprouting lush panicles.

Method #2 – seed

This method is quite labor-intensive, but it allows you to produce new growth. Collect seeds from plants in early September, carefully cutting off the inflorescences and capsules. They are laid out on paper and left in a warm place for two weeks. To get the smallest peas, just shake the dried panicles. Collected seeds placed in a bag and left until spring.

When growing astilbe from seeds, planting material is sown in February - March in containers filled with a mixture of peat and sand, taken in a 3:1 ratio.

Astilbe seeds are very small and they germinate rather slowly, so it is advisable to stratify them first

The seeds are scattered over the surface of moistened soil and covered with glass or plastic film. At this stage, it is important to maintain moisture conditions, not allowing the soil to dry out. Some gardeners recommend using “snow” from the freezer for this, which will gradually moisten the soil as it melts.

The first shoots appear after 3-4 weeks, but only towards the end of the season do they form small rosettes of leaves. Tender seedlings should be watered very carefully, directing thin streams of water to the very roots.

If the young bushes in the greenhouse do not crowd each other, they can not be disturbed until next spring. Bushes grown from seeds will delight you with flowering in the third year of planting.

Rules for planting astilbe

This crop grows best in loose and slightly acidic soils. You can reduce the acidity to the required level within 5.5-6.5 pH by adding wood ash or dolomite flour during digging.

Astilbe prefers shaded areas located a short distance from the spreading crowns of trees. The best option- sparse shadow.

When choosing a location, you should focus on the flowering time. Early and late varieties can be placed either on open areas, and in partial shade. It is better to plant medium-blooming ones in shaded corners, since the scorching July sun significantly shortens their flowering time.

Astilbes are moisture-loving by nature. Most varieties feel comfortable on marshy soils, calmly tolerating stagnant water.

The planting hole is half filled with humus, which is thoroughly mixed with the soil. It would also be useful to include organic fertilizers, taking them at the rate of 2 buckets of manure per 1 sq.m. fertilizers The enriched soil is watered. After waiting until it is completely absorbed, the plant is planted and sprinkled with soil so that the thickness of the layer above the replacement buds is about 4 cm. The soil around the stem is compacted and, to prevent the formation of air niches in the soil, it is watered again.

To minimize the care of this beautifully flowering crop, it is enough to follow a number of simple recommendations:

• During the growing season, feed with complex fertilizers. You can provide the root layer of soil with the required volume of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus when digging in the spring, adding at the rate of 30g/sq.m. In mid-July, feed with potassium nitrate (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) and the last feeding after flowering is completed - with superphosphate, distributing it 20 g per bush.
• Carry out timely watering. The moisture-loving plant does not tolerate long-term drought. On hot summer days it needs to be watered up to twice a day. The crop especially needs increased watering during the period of inflorescence formation. It is better to water astilbe early in the morning and after sunset.
• Mulch the soil. Mulching the planting area with tree bark or shavings will help maintain soil looseness and reduce moisture loss. Mulch will prevent the soil from overheating in the summer and the roots from freezing in the winter months.
• Rejuvenate the bush every five years. The ability of the plant’s rhizome to quickly increase mass requires periodic rejuvenation of the bush. At the end of each season, bare rhizomes must be sprinkled with fresh soil. Otherwise, the young shoots protruded by old roots become bare and dry out, which, in turn, negatively affects the quality and duration of flowering.
• Pest control. Nematodes and slobbering pennies are the main pests of the plant. They infect the leaves and rhizomes of the plant, causing it to wilt and die. You can get rid of a nematode only by completely destroying the affected specimen. It's a little easier with pennies. You can try to destroy its larvae mechanically, without injuring the roots and stems, or by using garden chemicals: confidor, aktar, karbofos.
• After flowering, trim the flower stalks. But some gardeners, on the contrary, leave dried flower stalks uncut so that they decorate the spring garden for as long as possible.
• Cover the plant for the winter. In winters with little snow, the majority of varieties of this beautifully flowering crop freeze slightly. To prevent this, before the onset of cold weather, the stems are cut to ground level, the bare roots are mulched with peat and covered with spruce branches.

In the future, the stronger plant will fight weeds on its own - its powerful roots cope with this task perfectly.

This moisture-loving beauty needs to be weeded only at the beginning of its growth at the stage of growing rhizomes and green mass.

Finally, we suggest you look interesting video about autumn pruning astilbe:

14.09.2017 7 293

Astilbe - planting and care open ground without any hassle!

Incredible astilbe, planting and caring for it in open ground, which is quite simple to care for, will delight owners with its beauty for a long time. But, you need to know when to plant your pet, in autumn or spring, be able to select the most successful combination with other colors in landscape design and take into account many nuances. Below you will find a photo of the flower, and also learn how to care for your pet and how its wintering goes.

Astilbe - planting according to the rules

Astilbe - lush perennial flower, which will grow well in a shady garden. However, some varieties prefer to grow in the sun. As a rule, the beauty begins to bloom in early summer, then in the autumn the upper part dies off, but root system remains alive.

The pet is planted starting in the spring season, immediately after the frosts disappear and the soil thaws, and until mid-autumn, but always 5-6 weeks before the onset of persistent cold weather, since the plant must have time to get stronger. This crop can be grown from seeds and rhizomes.

When planting, the rhizome should not be too dry or elongated, curved and in no case crumpled. There should also be no rotten parts. The root should be firm and fresh. If growth buds appear on the rhizome, it is better to plant it in the ground immediately. The optimal time for planting rhizomes in open ground is early to mid-May.

Before planting, the area needs to be dug up and weeds removed. It is important to fertilize the soil and for this you can use compost, manure or rotted peat. Dig small holes (25 cm deep at a distance of 30 centimeters). It is advisable to sprinkle the holes with a small amount of ash, which will protect the roots well from rot and various small pests living in the soil.

Water the planting holes well. Place the rhizome in the ground not too deep so that the buds are lightly sprinkled with soil. After this, sprinkle a small layer of peat chips or humus on top, which will retain moisture well and prevent the roots from withering in hot weather or freezing in the fall in case of unexpected cold weather.

Sowing of seeds begins in March. The process is quite complicated - first the flower is planted at home. Take a wide and tall container and place peat and sand in it in a 1:1 ratio. Some gardeners settle on a 3:1 ratio. Then a small layer of snow (up to 1 cm) is laid on top of the ground. The seeds are sown on this layer of snow. It will begin to melt and immerse the planting material in the peat. When the snow has melted, the container is placed on the upper section of the refrigerator. After the sprouts appear, transfer to a warm, bright place at room temperature. Watering is best done with a syringe, injecting water into the ground. The water should be at room temperature. When the sprouts have leaves, they are planted in separate containers.

If you plant seeds directly into the soil, you must remember that they may not sprout. They need to be scattered on top of the ground and not sprinkled with anything. Planting time is February-March. The crops need to be sprinkled with a small amount of water; they will go into the ground on their own. But be careful not to drown too deeply.

The sprouts are not transplanted into the greenhouse until the ground warms up. After the young animals appear, they begin to weed the ground. Don't forget to water. In mid-late September, the plant is pruned and covered for the winter. Grown from seeds, astilbe will bloom only in the third year.

Where to plant astilbe?

The location you choose to plant will ensure that the plant will take root. The choice of location depends on the type of flower. The culture can easily do without sunlight and grows quite quickly in partial shade. Varieties such as Gloria or Weiss Pearl can take root well in the sun. Tall varieties are planted at a distance of half a meter. Low varieties - 30 cm.

Outdoor care for beautiful flowering

Astilbe loves frequent watering. Its roots grow upward, where the soil dries out faster. The plant quickly withers due to lack of moisture, but at the same time you should not flood the plantings. Astilbe is very vulnerable after winter. It survives frosts well, but spring temperature fluctuations are destructive for it, so in the fall the plant and the soil between the bushes are covered with humus, peat, compost and covered with spruce branches.

How can you feed astilbe?

To prevent your green friend from dying, the soil must be fertilized every year. If using, use peat or compost. When covering with organic matter in the spring, do not forget to replace the layer with a fresh and nutritious one in the fall. In the spring, fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers will be good so that the crop actively begins to grow after winter (dissolve 15-20 grams of urea in 10 liters of water and water the plants). In mid-summer and autumn, the beauty can be fed with phosphorus-potassium supplements, which will allow the rhizomes to gain nutrition for the upcoming winter period. in combination with organic ones, they will allow you to grow incredibly beautiful astilbe in your summer cottage.

On average, a bush lives for five years. After this time (or if necessary), it needs to be replanted. A shovel is used to separate a part from the bush. The damaged area is sprinkled with ash or crushed coal and replanted.

Due to excessive watering, the crop can be affected by root rot. In this case, you can water the plants with Hom or others that will be available (dilute according to the instructions).

Another danger for astilbe comes from various pests: if the leaves of the plant turn yellow and curl, then they need to be treated for pennies and leafhoppers. For this, it is better to use Mospilan, Rogor-S, Aktar and other drugs.

Another pest that attacks leaves is the strawberry nematode. In this case, the leaves become brown and covered with yellow specks. The root-knot nematode lives in the roots of the plant. In neglected form, the plant may die.

Winter pruning is usually carried out in several step-by-step stages. This is the only way the crop can survive the winter without loss. After the crop has bloomed, its dried flowers need to be cut off. If this is not done, the plant stems will begin to weaken. In autumn, the planting is cut off completely, then the rhizome is mulched with a fairly thick layer of organic matter. The thickness of the layer will depend on the growing region - in the Urals and Siberia it is advisable to make it thicker, but in the Kuban you can not mulch at all, but it is better to play it safe - nature has its own rules. If you didn’t prune it in the fall, then you need to do it in the spring, always before fresh shoots appear.

Astilbe in landscape design and popular varieties

This flower is not whimsical, coexists well and combines with other crops that love shade. Astilbe blooms with openwork peduncles. You can often see varieties with white and pinkish hues. Lilies of the valley, bergenia, irises and other plants with whole leaves will be an excellent addition to a flower bed with astilbes, so feel free to plant them nearby.

Landscape designers prefer to plant several flower beds with only these bushes, but of different varieties that differ in color and height.

The beauty is planted on alpine hills or along lawns. It is necessary to place plants away from strong and powerful trees and lush shrubs, the root system of which can be destructive.

Astilbe has many varieties, among which are the following:

• Arendsa – hybrid variety, can grow up to 1 meter in height, the peduncle looks like a pyramid with rounded flowers. Arendsa blooms in July and August, flowering lasts about forty days;
• Brautschleier has whitish-yellow inflorescences, reaches 80 cm, begins flowering in early June;
• The Feynel variety is well suited for cutting; its flowers are painted in a fiery crimson hue;
• The shape of the flowers of the Gloria variety is diamond-shaped and they are painted white.

Beautiful astilbe will delight you with its flowering and look harmonious in a flowerbed with other plants only if you want it yourself. After all, in fact, the whole difficulty lies in free time and desire.

Astilbe is a representative of the genus of perennials belonging to the family Saxifragaceae (Saxifragaceae) and uniting more than 30 species. The name of the plant can be literally translated as “without shine” (“a” - without, “stilbe” - shine). This name was given to the flower by Lord Hamilton, a Scottish botanist who, while studying and describing the plant, noted the lack of shine in the inflorescences and leaves.

plant in natural conditions grows along the banks of streams and rivers, in deciduous forests and in other places where moisture is always retained in the summer. It is distributed naturally in North America, East Asia and Japan.

Two species can also be found in Russia - in the Far East and on the island of Kunashir. Astilbe has good frost resistance and in Canada is stored under a layer of snow at temperatures up to 37 degrees below zero.

General information

Astilbe – herbaceous perennial with the above-ground part dying off for the winter. The height of erect stems can vary from 8 centimeters to 2 meters. Leaves are basal, on long petioles. They may occasionally be simple, but in most species they are double or triple pinnate with a serrated margin. The color of the leaves is dark green or reddish green.

The flowers of the plant are small, collected in lush apical inflorescences-panicles, which is why they have a very attractive appearance. Flowers come in white, lilac, cream, pink, purple or red. Astilbe blooms in June-July and the duration of its “openwork” delicate flowering is 25-35 days.

The plant has a woody, dense or loose rhizome, depending on the species. Every year, the upper part of the rhizome forms daughter buds, while the lower part gradually dies. Since vertical growth of the rhizome is observed (the growth is approximately 3-5 centimeters per year), the plant must be sprinkled with fertile soil annually at the end of autumn.

Astilbe varieties and types

Inflorescence panicles can be rhombic, pyramidal, drooping and paniculate. The petals of flowers can be short and the inflorescences look delicate and airy, or they can be elongated, giving the inflorescences softness and fluffiness.

Some varieties are particularly beautiful, having a combination of several colors or shades in the inflorescence. These varieties are "Montgomery", "Peach and Cream" and "White Wings".

Depending on the structure of the inflorescences, several groups of astilbes are distinguished:

Pyramidal shape – the lateral branches of the inflorescences extend from the main axis almost at right angles, while they evenly decrease from the lower to the upper.

Diamond shape – side branches extend from the main axis at an acute angle, and the inflorescence itself resembles a diamond. This form of inflorescence is most often found in Japanese astilbe.

Paniculate form – departs at an acute angle from the main axis a large number of branched branches that gradually decrease towards the top. These inflorescences are most often decorated with Arends astilbe varieties.

Drooping forms – inflorescences have flexible drooping branches. This form is characteristic of varieties descended from Astilbe Lemoine and Thunberg.

Depending on the flowering period, there are:

• Early – astilbes begin to bloom in late June – early July.
• Average – blooming in July.
• Late – delight with their flowers in August.

Astilbes are also classified depending on the height of the plant:

• Low – astilbe, height from 15 to 60 centimeters.
• Average – bushes have a “growth” of 60 to 80 centimeters.
• High – plants with a height of 80 centimeters to 2 meters.

One of the smallest representatives of astilbe is the “Lilliput” variety, which has a height of only 15 centimeters, and the tallest, growing up to 2 meters in height, is David’s astilbe.

Only 10 species are grown in culture. However, breeders have done a lot of work to breed hybrids, of which there are now a large number.

Astilbe is a plant that, despite its beauty, is very easy to care for and has characteristics such as winter hardiness, shade tolerance and resistance to diseases and pests.

Astilbe planting and care in open ground

Astilbe prefers places in partial shade or shade during periods of particularly hot daytime sun. Scientists, having worked on developing new varieties and hybrids of astilbe, helped it “forget” about the growing conditions in the wild, and now many varieties grow well in the open sun. Only in this case the flowering is more abundant and shorter, and the leaves become lighter.

When choosing a place for future growth of astilbe in open ground, it is important to take into account the timing of its flowering. Early and late varieties it doesn’t matter where to grow - in the sun or in the shade, but astilbe, which blooms in July, can be damaged by the hot sun, shortening its flowering period.

Astilbe is a moisture-loving plant. It can grow even in places with stagnant water, but it will not tolerate drought. In hot summer and drought conditions, astilbe may die, so in such cases it is watered in the morning and evening every day until it rains.

Also, to protect the upper part of the rhizome from overheating and to reduce moisture loss, it is recommended to mulch the plants with bark or shavings. In addition, mulch prevents the growth of weeds, helps maintain soil looseness and creates excellent conditions for astilbe rhizomes during the winter.

It is necessary to mulch astilbe in flower beds immediately after planting. Apply a 5-centimeter layer of mulch, covering the entire surface of the soil around the plants.

There are varieties of astilbe that can grow in dry soils. And most Chinese hybrids feel great on heavy clay soils.

Planting and how to fertilize astilbe in spring

An important condition for the development and growth of astilbe is sufficient quantity potassium and phosphorus in the soil. So, 1-2 handfuls of bone meal and 25 grams of complex fertilizer are poured into the transverse grooves, 1 meter long, in the beds for plant propagation.

When planting plants in a flower garden, dig holes about 30 centimeters deep and wide, into which 2 handfuls of ash and bone meal, 30 grams, are also poured. mineral fertilizers and humus, mix everything and pour water over it. Then the plants are planted and covered with a 3-centimeter layer of mulch.

Astilbes grow quite quickly and need to be divided and replanted every 3-5 years. Due to the fact that astilbe rhizomes grow vertically upward, old bushes begin to protrude from the ground and young roots, which are located at the base of the buds, being almost on top of the ground, begin to dry out.

At the same time, flowering becomes of less quality and does not last as long, and the inflorescences decrease in size. If you constantly fertilize the soil, then astilbes can grow in one place for up to 20 years.

Fertilizing is carried out in early spring with nitrogen fertilizers, and after flowering or in the fall, potassium and phosphorus are added at a rate of 20 grams per plant. At the same time, the soil is slightly loosened and mulched.

Transplanting astilbe in spring

Astilbes can be replanted at any time of the year, even during flowering. After transplanting, it is necessary to water thoroughly every day for two weeks.

When planting in a flower garden, the distance between plants should be at least 30 centimeters, and in the case of planting tall varieties - 50 centimeters. When forming a border from astilbe, the distance between the bushes remains the same - 30-50 centimeters.

Before planting, dig up the area, remove weeds and other plants and fertilize the flowerbed with humus or peat, in the amount of 2 buckets of fertilizer per 1 square meter flower garden

As mentioned earlier, before planting, ash, bone meal and fertilizer are poured into each hole, watered and the plant is planted in such a way as to cover the growth bud with a layer of soil of at least 5 centimeters. The ground around the bush is compacted and mulched with peat or bark.

During the growing season, astilbes are watered as needed, weeds are removed, the soil is loosened and fertilizers are applied. Before winter, the stems of the plant are cut flush to the ground and the area is mulched.

Astilbe growing from seeds

Propagation by seeds, this method can be used for species propagation. This is due to the fact that astilbe seedlings can retain the characteristics of the mother plant only partially or not at all. Seedlings grown from varietal seeds are used for breeding.

The size of astilbe seeds is very small and they do not always have time to ripen. If you are lucky enough to wait until they ripen, they are shaken out of the inflorescences in September and stored until spring. In March, sphagnum peat and sand are placed in a wide box or other container, in a ratio of 3:1, and snow is poured on top, in a layer of 1 centimeter.

If there is no snow outside, you can use snow from the freezer or simply water the substrate. Seeds are sown on top of the snow. The melting snow moistens the soil and helps the seeds sink into it. After the snow has completely melted, the container is placed in a plastic bag and placed in the refrigerator or other sufficiently cold place for stratification for about 20 days.

As soon as the shoots appear, the container with them is moved to a bright place with an air temperature of 18 to 22 degrees Celsius. Water young plants very carefully at the root. Some gardeners even recommend watering using a syringe - injecting water directly into the substrate under the plant.

The germination rate of astilbe seeds is low, and the emerging seedlings grow very slowly and only by the end of the year form a small rosette of leaves. If young plants do not grow closely together, then they can be planted next spring.

If the seedlings have sprouted densely, then diving is carried out when 3-4 leaves appear on them. Astilbe grown from seeds blooms only in the 3rd year of its existence.

Reproduction of astilbe by renewal buds

To implement this method, in early spring, a renewal bud is cut out from the bush along with part of the rhizome. No more than 1/3 of the buds can be separated from one mother plant without causing harm to it.

Rooting is carried out in greenhouses in a substrate consisting of 3 parts of sphagnum moss and one part of sand, which is poured in a layer of 7 centimeters on top of ordinary fertile soil. Such astilbes can only be planted in the garden next spring.

Astilbe propagation by dividing the bush

Dividing a bush is the simplest and most convenient way Astilbe propagation. The best time to carry out this procedure is early spring. In this case, the newly formed bushes will still have time to bloom in the summer of this year.

The bush is divided in such a way that each division receives 1-3 buds and is left with a rhizome 5 centimeters long with adventitious roots. The size of the formed division does not matter. Both small and large parts of the bush take root equally well. Old rhizomes are removed during division.

You can divide astilbe bushes during the flowering period. In this case, you definitely won’t be mistaken in choosing a plant when purchasing and you will get exactly the variety you like.

Astilbe diseases and pests

Astilbe is slightly susceptible to diseases and pests. Occasionally, the plant succumbs to “attacks” of slobbering pennies, root-knot and strawberry nematodes. The pennitsa settles in the axils of the leaves, forming foamy secretions in which its larvae live. These larvae feed on the leaves of the plant, which become very wrinkled and covered with yellow spots.

As a result of this process, the plant begins to wither and may disappear completely. You can fight slobbering pennies manually, or you can treat astilbe with special preparations.

The root-knot nematode infects the roots, forming galls - growths with nematodes inside. They become noticeable only in the second period of the growing season. The plants stop developing and bloom very poorly. The control method is to remove infected roots or the plant completely.

The strawberry nematode attacks the leaves, buds and flowers of astilbe, and they become covered with brown and yellow necrotic spots and become deformed. The plant does not grow and begins to die. The only way to combat this nematode is to completely destroy infected plants.

Astilbe in landscape design

Astilbe – beautiful plant for decorating flower beds and parks. Small groups look impressive flowering plants against the backdrop of green bushes. An excellent solution would be to plant astilbe near a garden pond or on a rocky hill in shaded areas.

Astilbe goes well with plants that have large, smooth leaves that create a bright contrast with its openwork dissected leaves. Such plants include hostas, irises, bergenia, tulips and others. In front of the taller varieties of astilbe, it is good to plant low perennials that bloom in the spring, for example, saxifrage, tenacious, jasmine and navel. Borders made from astilbe also look beautiful.

Since there are varieties with different flowering periods, you can choose their combination in such a way that the openwork inflorescences of astilbe will delight you with their flowering throughout the summer. They also practice planting plants in groups, with different colors of flowers in one.

Astilbe flowers are also used for cutting. Although they do not last long when cut, they add to the interior bright colors and fill the room with light honey aroma. It is also possible to use dried astilbe inflorescences in winter bouquets.

Upon completion of flowering, the bushes look just as decorative, thanks to the beautiful and exquisite foliage. Peduncles, even with seed pods, look very attractive, so it is not recommended to trim them until autumn. And some gardeners leave them for the winter to enliven the snowy landscape.

Astilbe also found its use for medicinal purposes. Thus, in ancient times, the Chinese used the leaves and roots of the plant as a tonic, anti-inflammatory, and antipyretic for diseases of the kidneys and skin. And seasoning for meat from astilbe leaves is still used in Japan to this day.

Forcing astilbe

Astilbe is a good plant for forcing. Early-flowering, low-growing varieties are best suited for this purpose. The most commonly used varieties are Japanese hybrid astilbe, which grows as a compact small bush.

For forcing, young seedlings are taken, obtained by propagation by renewal buds, which have at least 6 buds. Plants obtained by dividing old bushes are unsuitable for this purpose. Selected astilbes are planted in pots in the fall and placed in a cool place, covered with peat or spruce branches.

At the beginning of winter, plants are brought into rooms where the air temperature is 10-14 degrees. As soon as the leaves begin to bloom, the temperature must be increased to 16-18 degrees and abundant watering and spraying should begin. Spraying is stopped when the first flowers appear, which can be expected 10-14 weeks after the start of forcing.

If you move astilbe to a warmer place in February-March, you can expect faster flowering. Recommended varieties for forcing are Peach Blossom, Bonn, Europa, Emdem, Cologne and Deutschland. Forcing astilbe is especially popular among German and Dutch gardeners. Office and public premises are decorated with such plants.

Is it because we are so eager to go to the dacha in the summer because we are madly attracted by the mythical fairy-tale world of ornamental plants? Among them, astilbe stands out - the bright queen shady garden, which seems to fascinate with its colorful lush Christmas trees and makes you sincerely wait for magic. It is difficult to imagine any garden without this plant. It looks very picturesque in the spring, when lacy leaves of various shades appear, and during the colorful summer flowering, and after it in the fall, maintaining shiny beautiful leaves until the very end of the season. It has a unique, honey-like aroma.

Astilbe is one of the most unpretentious plants capable of surviving in the harshest conditions. Therefore, it is often called a plant for beginning gardeners.

Types and varieties of astilbe

The most popular types and astilbe varieties can be grouped into the following:

• Arendsa (Amethyst, Brautschleier, Fainel, White and Weiss, Gloria, Gloria Purpurea , Color Flash, Color Flash Lime, Erica);
• Chinese (Vision Series, Hip Hop, Veronica Kloz, Superba);
• Thunberg (Straussenfeder);
• Japanese (Montgomery, Bronzelaub);
• Curly (Liliput, Perkeo, Moulin Rouge).

As for choosing the height of astilbe, if you want to plant a shrub in the background of a flower bed or against a fence, then it is better to choose a taller variety. For example, variety Amethyst- the perfect choice.

Amethyst

If astilbe is needed for a mini-garden, then miniature (dwarf, groundcover) varieties are suitable for you, for example, Lilliputian or Perkeo.

Lilliputian

When designing a flower garden, it is important to take into account the shape of the inflorescences. It is also very diverse in astilbe, for example, in the variety Aphrodite and Ericathe flowers are very airy and diamond-shaped.

Erika

And the series VisionOn the contrary, the flowers are very dense and powerful.

Vision in Pink

In the variety Gloria Purpurea- big and fluffy.

Gloria Purpurea

The variety has very original inflorescences Straussenfeder- similar to large and drooping ostrich feathers.

Straussenfeder

Video: types and varieties of astilbe

Methods for propagating astilbe

Astilbe can be propagated in several ways:

• seeds (for species);
• dividing the bush (for variety);
• renewal buds with part of the rhizomes (for the variety).

Reminder! IN garden store you can purchase seeds and rhizomes with renewal buds. You can propagate by dividing the bush after you have grown astilbe from seeds or rhizomes, or your neighbor will share it with you.

Growing astilbe from seeds

Planting astilbe with seeds is quite easy, but growing it is not so easy. First, the seeds must undergo stratification, in other words, the container with the crops will need to be put in the refrigerator for 3 weeks. It is worth laying down for stratification in January.

For sowing, you will need a loose soil mixture (for example, peat and sand in equal parts), on top of which you need to evenly distribute astilbe seeds, which are very small, so for planting you will have to use a slightly moistened clove. When finished, the crops should be lightly sprayed with a spray bottle. cold water(possibly with the addition of vermicompost for seedlings). And then cover plastic bag or film (shoe cover) and put it in the refrigerator.

Advice! Experienced gardeners recommend that instead of spraying with cold water, sprinkle the crops with a small layer of snow (1 centimeter). And when it has already melted, put the crops in the refrigerator.

In February and March (depending on when you sowed the seeds), the hatched seeds are already embedded in the ground and the containers are placed in a bright and warm place, where the temperature is about +18-20 degrees. As a rule, shoots appear in 2-3 weeks. Next, they are cared for, like ordinary flower seedlings, in other words, they are watered and illuminated until the optimal 12-hour daylight hours. In order not to dive, it is better to sow immediately in individual containers. In May they are planted in open ground.

Worth knowing! Astilbe grown from seeds will bloom only in the 2nd or 3rd year!

Video: sowing astilbe seed for seedlings

Typically, using dividing the bush The overgrown astilbe is transplanted, which should be performed at least once every 5 years. The bush should be divided so that each division has from 3 to 5 renewal buds. Astilbe can be replanted using this method both in spring (preferably early), and in late summer (August) or early autumn. Moreover, it is optimal to plant at a distance of at least 30-40 centimeters between the bushes.

The most popular method is reproduction kidney renewal and part rhizomes. It is this method that will be discussed further.

How to preserve astilbe at home before planting in the ground

If you bought a dormant plant, you can perfectly store it in the refrigerator until it is planted in open ground.

If you see that the growth buds have awakened, that is, the growth process has begun, the plant should be placed in a pot of soil as soon as possible, otherwise it will simply have nowhere to take nutrients from. Astilbe rhizomes are not designed for long-term storage, so if they start to dry out, then you will hardly be able to grow a healthy plant from these roots.

Container and soil

You should take care in advance about purchasing the necessary container for planting. It is good to plant astilbe in plastic buckets with a volume of about 1 liter. In such a container it is very convenient to monitor the condition of the plant roots and soil moisture.

As for the soil, it is best to use a universal soil for flowers, to which you add a little vermiculite to improve the properties of the soil and maintain the air-water balance.

By the way! It is not necessary to plant in the ground; you can also plant in coconut substrate. Its distinctive characteristic is that it contains a lot of air, which means the roots, which in February-March are usually not in very good condition, will develop well.

Planting in a pot

Step-by-step instruction planting astilbe in a pot to preserve the plant at home:

There is no need to disturb the plant any further, just water it promptly as the soil dries out. No feeding is required at this stage.

All that remains is to place the container with the astilbe seedling in a bright and cool room, where the air temperature is kept between +15-18 degrees.

Video: how to plant astilbe that you bought early and want to save before planting in the ground

Planting astilbe in open ground

Landing dates

Planting times vary depending on where you live. As always, residents Middle zone(Moscow region) begin to plant earlier than gardeners in the Urals and Siberia, but noticeably later than the southern regions.

Astilbes are usually planted in open ground no earlier than May, when the ground has warmed up sufficiently. Moreover, it does not matter whether you are planting rhizomes with renewal buds or planting seedlings.

In general, astilbe can be planted both in spring and autumn, and even in summer, unless, of course, the weather is very hot. It all depends on when you can get planting material.

Place and soil on the site

In order for astilbe to delight you with its lush flowering, you need to choose optimal place at the site for its landing.

Astilbe can grow both in the shade and in the sun. But still, this plant likes to grow in partial shade on loose and moist soils. It is optimal to plant the plant in soil with a predominant content of clay and a significant amount of sand, in other words, in loam.

As for the specific location, if you have a small pond on your site, then plant it nearby. If not, then the area on the north side of the house, as well as shady places near trees and shrubs, are perfect for planting.

By the way! To accurately determine the location for planting astilbe, you should pay attention to the flowering period of a particular plant variety. For example, early and late flowering plants can grow successfully both in the shade and under the scorching sun. But it is advisable to plant mid-flowering ones (also called July flowers) in more shady areas. If you want to extend the flowering period of varieties with white and pink flowers, then it is advisable to also plant them in partial shade.

Direct planting in the garden

To plant astilbe in open ground, it is worth preparing a planting hole in advance, making it about 20-30 centimeters deep. You should add a little wood ash, compost or humus to the soil for planting, and then mix it all very thoroughly and water it generously. Next, plant the seedling, cover it with soil, and then mulch it to better retain moisture with a layer of about 3-5 centimeters. Peat, tree bark, sawdust or straw can be used as mulch.

By the way! Although this plant is not very picky about soil, if you plant it in a pre-fertilized place, you will not need to feed it for a while. However, it will grow much better, which means the flowering will be more magnificent and brighter.

As for the astilbe planting scheme, tall varieties are planted at a distance of about 0.5 meters, and low ones - about 0.2-0.3 meters.

Caring for astilbe in open ground

Caring for astilbe involves regular watering depending on the weather and timely hilling. The latter is required because the roots of the plant constantly grow upward, while their lower part dies off over time.

Astilbe loves moisture, so don’t forget about watering and try not to allow the soil to dry out, especially during hot late spring and summer periods. If the weather is dry and the sun is simply sizzling, then it is recommended to water at least 1, and preferably even 2 times a day.

Top dressing

Astilbe feeding is carried out in spring, summer - before and after flowering, as well as in autumn.

Note! Before fertilizing, the plant should be watered first. If it has rained previously, additional moisture will not be required.

Spring feeding carried out using nitrogen fertilizers to increase the green mass of the plant. For example, you can add a little humus to the ground, for example, during hilling. Or it’s great to use mullein infusion for these purposes.

In summer, before flowering, the plant requires fertilizing with potassium. For this it is impossible would be better suited potassium nitrate, 1 tbsp. l which needs to be dissolved in 5 liters of water. The consumption rate is approximately 0.5 liters per 1 bush.

At the end of summer after flowering, the shrub requires phosphorus fertilizer. To do this, you can dry fertilize with superphosphate: about 1 tbsp. spoon for 1 bush. But it is better to use exclusively phosphorus-potassium fertilizers; they are specifically designed to improve the winter hardiness of the plant.

Advice! After finishing any of the fertilizing, the soil around the bush should be thoroughly loosened and mulch should be added.

Autumn care and preparation for winter

If you have already succumbed to the openwork charm of fluffy astilbe, let it occupy its niche in your flowerbed in your own garden! And you already know how and when to plant it correctly and properly care for it.

Video: astilbe - cultivation, care and reproduction

In contact with

Decorative astilbe is an ideal find for picturesque summer cottage. She is unpretentious, not afraid of shade and sun, and does not require specific care. The history of cultivation and breeding of astilbe dates back to the 1800s. Since then, many new varieties and subspecies have been developed, and new ones are constantly appearing. They differ in size, appearance and living conditions, so you can decorate any area with astilbe.

General characteristics

Despite its rich history, astilbe has been underestimated for many years. This is an ordinary wild flower - not too bright or attractive. It was first described by Lord Hamilton in 1825. This is how the name appeared, which literally means “without shine.” But the inconspicuous appearance did not stop Hamilton from bringing several varieties to Europe.

At the end of the 19th century, the botanist Emile Lemoine saw the potential of astilbe. He received a number of new varieties and for a long time honed garden forms to perfection. Later, breeders and scientists from other countries joined him.

Georg Arends devoted more than half a century to astilbe. He developed 84 new species from different shapes and the color of the inflorescences, the size of the bush, the appearance of the leaves and the flowering period. This is how a full-fledged classification of a new garden crop began to emerge. The Lemoine and Arends varieties are loved by gardeners to this day.

Astilbe groups

Botanists classify astilbe according to different criteria. Gardeners around the world use a number of generally accepted definitions. These categories are based on appearance, the size and shape of the flower, and not on its origin. After all, it is the characteristics of the plant that determine whether it can be used in a particular area.

Flowering period. Most astilbe varieties bloom in summer, and the period lasts 1–2 weeks. There are three groups: early, middle and late.

Height. There are four groups: Tall – from 90–100 cm; Medium – 60–90 cm; Low – 30–60 cm; Dwarf - up to 30 cm.

Inflorescence shape. This is the main decorative characteristic.

- Drooping. Inflorescences on a flexible long stem droop towards the ground. They look especially elegant and sophisticated.

- Pyramidal. Side branches with flowers diverge perpendicular to the central axis, becoming thinner and shorter. The inflorescence tapers from the base to the apex.

- Paniculata. As in pyramidal inflorescences, the lateral branches diverge perpendicular to the axial one, but in this case they also branch intensively.

- Rhombic. Branches with flowers extend at right angles and form something like a diamond.

Types of astilbe

According to botanists, there are more than 350 varieties of astilbe, and their number is constantly growing. However, only about 10 varieties are most often used.

A low bush of small diameter, 12x15 cm. Pink flowers bloom in June-July. The leaves are cast bronze.

It differs from most types of astilbe in having undivided leaves of a simple configuration. The plate is green and shiny, with a rough edge. White flowers are densely collected in pyramidal drooping inflorescences. Other colors are less common. Flowering period – July-August.

A perennial fruiting plant with complex openwork leaves of several feathers. Height - up to 100 cm. Leaf blade - shiny, with veins, covered with red hairs along the edges. The largest are the basal leaves on long petioles, the stem leaves are smaller and shorter. Small lilac, pink or white flowers bloom in long dense inflorescences about 30 cm long. Flowering period - late June - early August. Chinese astilbe has been known since 1859. There are several subspecies.

Known since 1904, it originates from Korea and Northeast China. This is relatively low herbaceous plant up to 60 cm. Wrinkled leaves light color, with brown hairs. The inflorescences are relatively short, up to 25 cm, but elastic and dense, slightly drooping. Flowers are creamy white. Flowering period - July.

One of the first representatives of the family of Japanese hybrids, known since 1837. grassy perennial in the form of a wide spreading bush. Height - up to 80 cm. Dark feathery leaves with a glossy plate grow on reddish petioles. Small pink or white flowers are collected in dense rhombic inflorescences up to 30 cm. Flowering period is July.

She has been known since 1902, and her homeland is Mongolia and Northern China. This is a tall, fruitful perennial plant up to 150 cm. The leaves are light, with brownish veins, complex, pinnate and wrinkled. Lilac and pink flowers bloom in narrow pyramidal inflorescences up to 40 cm long. Flowering period – July-August.

A specific subspecies common in the East Asian regions of Russia and Japan. Grows in deciduous and mixed leaves. This variety has been known since 1878. The height of the bush reaches 80 cm. Its peculiarity is its brown woody rhizome. The oval leaves are compound and feathery, oval shape with jagged edges. White flowers are collected in racemose branched inflorescences of apical type 25x10 cm. Flowering period is July-August. There are several subspecies of this variety.

Astilbe in the garden is suitable for shady areas and requires constant moisture. In nature, it grows in shady deciduous forests or near ponds, which affects its lifestyle.

Astilbe is planted alone or in groups, in the ground or in containers. It fits gracefully into a mixborder or border. Dwarf varieties will brightly decorate the decorative alpine slide. Most species feel best near bodies of water. With a lack of moisture, the leaves wither and the inflorescences become smaller.

The growth rate depends on moisture and heat. High varieties are planted at a distance of about 50 cm, low ones - up to 30 cm. First you need to prepare the soil: dig it, remove weeds, add fertilizers and mineral supplements. Areas with high groundwater are ideal.

Sparse shade ensures regular and intense flowering. The sun is best tolerated by varieties with light and white flowers. Their period is shorter, but much more eventful.

The bush lives for about 5 years. After this it needs to be replanted.

Transplantation and propagation

Astilbe is an excellent background for flower beds. It gets along well with other foliage plants and spring-flowering varieties, such as tulips, hyacinths and saxifrage. It harmonizes well with daylilies, irises, bells, tall grasses, geraniums and other species. Different varieties also complement each other. For example, a complete composition can be created from low-growing forms for the foreground and tall bushes- for the rear.

When planting, holes up to 30 cm are dug into which fertilizers, flour and humus are poured. The mixture is filled with water. Mulching the soil is necessary to retain moisture and protect against overheating.

Gardeners use two methods of propagation:

Buds renewal. The fastest option. In the spring, carefully cut off the shoots with a fragment of the rhizome. Sprinkle the cuttings with ash and plant them in a mixture of peat and gravel under a film. Astilbe will be ready for transplanting into the ground in about a year.

Dividing the bush. The simplest and good option. Dig up a bush, cut off the leaves and divide it into sections with 3-5 buds. Remove dead rhizomes and plant cuttings at a distance from each other. Water them daily, and then when planted in early spring, the astilbe will bloom by autumn.

Propagation by seeds used only by breeders. It is difficult, time consuming, requires high quality seeds and special care. First, stratification is carried out to accelerate growth. Then the seeds are planted in moist soil, but are not embedded in the ground. In spring, the leaves can be transplanted into beds.

Pest and disease control

Astilbe grows beautiful and healthy in almost any soil. The presence of potassium and phosphorus and their proportions are important. Peat and compost are used to fertilize dry soil, complex additives are used for wet soil, and phosphorus-potassium acids are used after flowering.

Astilbe hardly gets sick, and insects do not like it. The most common problems:

Pennitsa. These are small cicadas that lay eggs on leaves or young shoots. Because of the pennies, plants grow slower and inflorescences do not develop. It can also be a carrier of various diseases. She is not afraid of most chemicals, so you will have to get rid of the pest manually.

Khrushchi and slugs. The easiest and fastest way is to get rid of them manually.

Another problem with astilbe, like other moisture lovers, is root rot. This occurs due to an excess of water or insufficient oxygen in the soil. For prevention, before flowering, plants are treated with special antiseptics and Bordeaux mixture.

Astilbe - photo

We have collected the best photos astilbe so that you can compare and understand what the flower looks like and where to place or plant it. Watch and be inspired!