How to make ventilation in a sauna: design options, device and materials. Types and purpose of ventilation in a log bathhouse Exhaust ventilation devices in a bathhouse

The standards for ventilation of premises are prescribed in SNiP 41–01–2003, but they are not entirely applicable for baths. Why? Sanitary authorities regulate the frequency of indoor air changes to ensure a favorable microclimate in terms of temperature and air humidity. These indicators in the steam room cannot be called favorable for a person’s long stay; they are rather stressful. In addition, no room considered in building codes requires the fastest possible drying and the fastest possible warm-up. Ventilation in the bathhouse should maintain the microclimate in the premises under the given conditions with a significant increase in humidity and temperature and at the same time completely eliminate the occurrence of drafts.

Another feature of ventilation in the bathhouse. Its operation must be independent of external weather conditions, and its actual performance must be capable of quickly changing humidity and temperature. In addition, the technical capabilities of ventilation must allow them to respond as quickly as possible to changes in the microclimate in the steam room, and for this they must have increased power compared to conventional ventilation systems.

Natural ventilation does not allow achieving such results; it is low-power and highly dependent on weather conditions. In order to guarantee the required conditions, forced ventilation is used - air is supplied/removed by special fans.

This is quite an interesting question. We have already mentioned that there are no state regulations for the ventilation of baths. This is due to the fact that the requirements for steam rooms are very individual; some want to steam in very humid and hot rooms, others prefer moderate humidity and air temperature. Such different microclimate values must be installed in the same room using the same ventilation system. Since generally accepted standards do not exist (and cannot exist), then each steam room user should be able to “adjust” them to their requirements. And forced ventilation of the bathhouse will help to do this.

Practice shows that to quickly change humidity and temperature, changing air six times within an hour is enough. Based on these conditions, the technical characteristics of the fans should be selected. If, for example, the volume of the steam room is 2 m (width) × 3 m (length) × 2 m (height) = 12 m3, then the fan power should be 12 × 6 = 72 m3/hour. The dimensions of the air inlet and outlet openings should be selected taking into account the size of the fans. The designers have already provided for this parameter; the greater the fan power, the larger the installation space required for it, the larger the inlet or outlet hole should be.

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heat resistant exhaust fans

How to choose a fan

All household fans are divided into two large groups:

Choose a fan based on its optimal location and power; it is better to make a reserve on performance - long-term operation of electric motors at maximum load causes their accelerated failure.

It is highly desirable that the fan has several rotation speeds or possibly smoothly adjustable shaft speed. This will allow you to quickly achieve an optimal microclimate in the steam room. The switch or control panel must be accessible to people in the steam room.

Pay attention to the degree of protection of the case, very important criterion. The air in the steam room is humid and hot, and these are the most unfavorable operating conditions for electric motors. According to European standards, the case must have protection of at least IP44. It is advisable not to install a fan at the air outlet (exhaust ventilation); it will work with the same efficiency at the air inlet (supply ventilation). At the air outlet from the steam room, the operating conditions of the fans are the most difficult; there is a high risk of breakdowns due to exceeding the critical heating temperatures of the insulation of the stator and rotor windings.

The fan grille should have louvres that direct the air flow downwards or disperse it in different directions. If the blinds can change their position, that’s very good; there is always the opportunity to change the direction of the air flow depending on the prevailing circumstances in the steam room.

Important. All work on connecting devices must be carried out in strict compliance with the PUE (Rules for the installation of electrical equipment). Electrical wiring The bathhouse must have independent grounding.

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Bahcivan radial fan

Where to locate the inlet/outlet openings of forced ventilation

The main condition is that the holes should be located only in those places that guarantee effective ventilation and prevent the occurrence of drafts. Next, you can pay attention to the architectural features of the room and the design appearance. You should not install fans “in beautiful places” if such an installation will not provide any practical benefit for creating a microclimate.

Exit holes. They are made at a distance of 10÷20 centimeters from the ceiling or in the ceiling. If the hole is under the ceiling, then the air is exhausted through an air duct in the wall to the street. In our opinion - best option. If the hole is in the ceiling, then the air from the steam room gets under the roof. The advantage is that the appearance of the façade walls of the bathhouse is not affected. Disadvantage – high risk of waterlogging rafter system baths, and this can cause very negative consequences. It is possible to remove moist hot air through the roof covering, but this requires significant costs and increases the risk of leaks on the roof.

Entry holes. There are three options.

First. If the bathhouse has a drain floor, then there is no need to make inlet holes; the air passes through the cracks of the flooring.
Second. It is allowed to make an entrance hole at the bottom of the steam room doors, cut holes in the door leaf and insert a decorative grille.
Third. The entrance hole is made in the wall of the bathhouse at a height of approximately 10 centimeters from the floor. To avoid the appearance of unpleasant drafts, it is recommended to place them behind the stove, but you can choose any other place for yourself, the main thing is that the cold air does not immediately hit those receiving bath procedures.

When choosing inlet/outlet holes, you need to take into account the power of the fans. The more productive they are, the farther they should be located from people.

And one more piece of advice. Ventilation copes with its tasks much more effectively if the inlet and outlet openings are located diagonally in the room or on opposite walls. There is no universal description of the pattern of air flow in a steam room; there are too many individual room factors that change their movement.

You must ensure that the air moves as evenly as possible throughout the entire volume of the room. In this way, it will be possible to avoid the formation of “dead” zones unfavorable for washing, increase the uniformity of air heating, accelerate the heating of the room and improve the removal of exhaust air.

What types of forced ventilation of a bath are there?

Unlike natural ventilation, forced ventilation can be of three types.

Supply. Air is forced into the room and removed in a natural way through the outlet openings. For a bath this is the most acceptable option. The cost is affordable to all developers, it is quickly installed, and does not require much time loss for periodic routine maintenance.
Exhaust. Air removal is forced, air intake is natural through the inlets. It is not recommended for a steam room due to the extremely difficult operating conditions of the fans. It is not inferior in efficiency to the supply air.
Supply and exhaust. Both the intake and removal of air is forced. It is used only in large buildings with many rooms for various purposes. Quite complex and expensive ventilation systems are installed only in exclusive baths.

Let us consider in more detail each type of forced ventilation of the bath.

Forced supply ventilation

An electric fan is installed in an inlet located near the floor. Air under pressure is forced into the steam room; due to the appearance of excess pressure, the exhaust air exits through the outlet. Inlet vents are most often located near the floor; to reduce the risk of drafts, they are made behind the stove. Of course, when choosing a specific location for the hole, you should take into account all the features of the steam room.

Important. The distance between the stove and the hole must completely prevent overheating of the electric fan and power cables. If the design features do not allow the fan to be safely placed behind the stove, then you should choose a different location - under the shelves, on the opposite side of the door, etc. The main condition is that cold air should not create inconvenience for those washing. Avoid placing the fan in areas where water may splash during washing.

Many builders rightfully consider the supply option for bath ventilation to be the most optimal solution. We completely agree with this opinion and recommend it to you for use. Another advantage of this method of forced ventilation is its versatility. Supply ventilation can be done not only in the steam room, but also in all other rooms of the bathhouse.

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valve for fresh air ventilation

The fundamental difference is that the fan removes exhaust air from the steam room, while fresh air comes in naturally. To increase operating efficiency, the exhaust duct should be placed under the ceiling. But installing an electric fan in these places is associated with great difficulties; for electric motors, operating in conditions of high humidity and temperature is extremely undesirable. If you decide to install the engine at the top, then carefully select the degree of protection of the housing. There is no point in saving money on this indicator. It is much more profitable to immediately purchase an expensive, but reliable and well-protected fan than to replace it several times later.

An exhaust fan can also be installed much lower than the ceiling level. This position slightly improves the operating conditions of the engine, but significantly reduces the efficiency of ventilation. Make a decision yourself, take into account your needs, capabilities, desires and features of the room.

Forced supply and exhaust ventilation

It has many options; forced removal and entry can be installed in each room, or in some there is a natural flow of air masses. For this purpose, special holes are made or air passes freely through the existing cracks. We have already mentioned that this type of forced ventilation in baths is installed very rarely.

Before starting work, you need to think about the location of the supply and exhaust ducts, and decide on the power and type of fans. It is necessary to purchase moisture- and heat-resistant equipment, low noise, with the ability to adjust the speed of rotation of the blades. Modern ones increase the driving pressure and the power of the air flow while simultaneously reducing the number of revolutions. Due to this, noise is significantly reduced and the durability of the fan increases.

Ventilation ducts can be made of galvanized sheet steel or plastic.

Plastics are preferable due to their physical characteristics fully comply with difficult operating conditions. Ventilation grates must meet the parameters of the fans, the blinds must break the powerful air flow in different directions or direct it to the floor. If you can independently adjust the position of the blinds, that’s great, the capabilities of the ventilation system increase significantly, and the comfort of staying in the premises increases.

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PVC ventilation ducts

Algorithm for installing forced ventilation of a bath

Step 1. Choose one of the existing methods of forced ventilation, draw up a diagram of the location of the opening for supplying/removing air in the steam room. As an example, we give you several popular patterns for placing air holes. Hand over the markings on the walls and once again carefully evaluate the correctness of the chosen solution. Purchase equipment and prepare tools for installation.

Step 2. Make holes for ventilation ducts. Keep in mind that it is not so easy to make through holes in a finished log house. The thickness of the beams can reach 150 mm; add to this size the thickness of the internal external cladding. The total length of the channel in the wall can be 30 centimeters or more; it is difficult to work with a chisel in a long and narrow channel. It’s very good if you thought about installing ventilation at the stage of building a bathhouse, but this rarely happens.

How to make ventilation ducts

There are several ways to make channels, it all depends on what kind of work experience you have and what geometry of the hole you should end up with. Square holes are more difficult to make. First, you will have to drill small-diameter holes throughout the entire area of the air duct, and then use a chisel to chop off the wood. Such work may take half a day or more for just one channel. If the wall of the bathhouse is thick, then it is better to make a hole one by one on both sides of the bathhouse.

To drill round holes, you can use a wood cutter (metal crown). It is easier to work with, the only drawback is the diameter limitation. You can rarely find a crown with a diameter of more than 120 mm on sale. You should work slowly with the crown; after drilling the contour, you need to remove the wooden bridges with a chisel. In order to reduce the load on the electric tool, the side planes of the crown should be lubricated machine oil.

Step 3. If you are using an axial fan, then it is simply inserted into the duct. Keep in mind that the duct dimensions must be larger than the fan dimensions. Take a set of measures to prevent moisture from getting on the crowns of the log house. To do this, use various types of hydrobarriers; all “inconvenient” and hard-to-reach cracks can be sealed with polyurethane foam. After cooling, excess foam should be cut off with a sharp knife; it should not reduce nominal diameter channel.

If, for technical or other reasons, it is necessary to use a radial fan for forced ventilation of the bath, then a special place must be prepared for its connection. Protect the installation site from atmospheric precipitation, install pipelines of appropriate diameters and profiles to it.

Step 4. Connect the installed equipment to electrical network. The connection diagram depends on the type of equipment and technical characteristics of the electric motor.

Photo – fan mount

Step 5. Install the fan switch. It should be in an easily accessible place. During production electrical installation work Follow safety regulations.

To increase the comfort of using the steam room, you can connect a fan to the temperature control unit. The electronics will automatically turn on/off forced ventilation depending on the set temperature values. The second option for automating the ventilation system is used to ventilate the steam room after the bath. The fan in this case operates on a timer.

How to check the functionality of forced ventilation

We strongly advise you to check the effectiveness of forced ventilation before using the steam room. It is not technically difficult and does not take much time. If problems are found, you will have the time and opportunity to correct them. How to check ventilation?

Bring a smoldering firebrand to the inlet vent and watch where and at what speed the air flow moves. Move the smoking firebrand closer or further away from the hole, in this way achieve maximum visibility of the smoke. The air must move through the steam room according to the specified optimal schemes. Pay attention to what obstacles change its direction, whether they can be removed and moved to another location in the steam room.

After you have checked the movement of air masses, make sure the ventilation is working. Remove the smoldering firebrand from the steam room and find out the time during which ventilation will completely remove smoke from the room. Its smell should not be felt in the steam room. This time should not exceed three to four minutes. Conduct experiments on different fan modes, achieve the greatest efficiency of the system.

Do not try to overcomplicate forced ventilation; remember that the more complex the design, the greater the likelihood of breakdowns occurring somewhere. This rule applies not only to ventilation, but to absolutely all engineering and architectural structures.

It is advisable to provide ventilation holes during the assembly of the log house. If it doesn’t work out, then make holes before facing the outer and interior walls. And if it doesn’t work out, get ready for long physical labor. It will be especially difficult to work under the ceiling; cramped conditions do not allow you to take comfortable positions while working with the tool.

Properly equipped ventilation is the key to a comfortable stay in the steam room

Video - Types of forced ventilation

Video - Ventilation in the steam room

It can be made according to different schemes, but there is no doubt that this structure cannot be done without it.

Not only the correct distribution of heat in the room, but also the safety of visitors, as well as longevity wood service bathhouse building. In a bathhouse, especially in a steam room, always a large number of water and steam, and wooden surfaces absorb moisture, and periodic drying of the room is simply necessary. However, it will not be effective enough if constant ventilation is not organized in the premises, which significantly reduces the effect of moisture absorption by wood, since the air is in continuous movement.

The principle of operation of ventilation in a bathhouse

Job ventilation system is based on the well-known laws of physics, and the principle of its arrangement is quite simple and understandable.

In the bathhouse there are two ventilation windows, one of which provides an influx of fresh air, and the second allows the heated and waterlogged air to escape.
The exact location of the ventilation windows will determine which area of the room will receive more intensely heated air, which moves under the pressure of heavier cold air coming from outside. Therefore, sometimes instead of one outlet, two are installed - this is done in order to be able to direct the flow in the desired direction by opening one of them or both at the same time by a certain amount.

Thus, a very important factor is the size of the windows, as well as the ability to adjust the clearance they open. To do this, they are equipped with latch doors, which can be closed completely or a small gap can be left open.

Another important task is the correct calculation overall size ventilation window taking into account the area of a particular room.

— If you install openings that are too large, the steam room will either never be able to heat up to the required temperature, or this will lead to excessive consumption of fuel or energy, or in order to achieve the required temperature, it will take a long time to adjust the distance to which you need to open each of the ventilation windows.

— If the ventilation windows are not large enough, the intensity of air movement will be noticeably reduced, which means that the room may overheat or the air will become oversaturated with moisture.

So, the soft intake, uniform mixing and removal of air from the room will depend on the size of the ventilation openings, their location and whether the system is equipped with additional control elements. That is, it is necessary to provide all these parameters so that there are no sharp thermal changes in the room for individual parts of the body of a person washing in a bathhouse, for example, when cold air from the street blows down the legs, and at the same time the head is exposed to very high temperatures. temperatures

There will be a difference in air flow temperatures in any case, and this is normal, but visitors should not feel any discomfort from this. Therefore, the air should be mixed as evenly as possible - this depends on the correct design of the ventilation system.

Important nuances of planning a ventilation system in a bathhouse

Before you begin choosing a ventilation system and the most suitable design, you need to understand some of the nuances that apply when installing any of them:

The ventilation system is laid out in the process - the necessary channels are laid and openings are arranged into which they are embedded or connected. The adjustable windows themselves are installed after the decorative cladding of the room.

For that, to To carry out this work without problems, it is necessary to include ventilation in the bathhouse design in order to carry out all further construction work based on it.

Ventilation openings, ideally, should be the same size. If it is necessary to speed up the outflow of exhaust air, then the exhaust hole is made slightly larger than the supply hole, but for safety reasons, in any case it is forbidden to make it smaller than the latter. Sometimes, as mentioned above, instead of one, two exhaust windows are installed, not only to regulate the distribution of flows, but also to ensure safety.
Ventilation windows must have doors or latches. It is preferable to install the latter, as they close more tightly, leaving no gaps.

During the initial heating of the steam room, the latch doors are closed completely until the required temperature is reached.
Adjustable dampers are also necessary because the flow of cold air depends on the time of year. Thus, at negative winter temperatures, the cold enters the warm room more intensely. Therefore, during this period, the ventilation windows do not open completely, holding back the flow of cold.
The cross-sectional area of the ventilation window is calculated based on the volume of the bath room. There is a rule that for one cubic meter you need a window area of 24 square meters. cm.

If the calculations are incorrect, with deviations in one direction or the other, the room will not be sufficiently ventilated or, conversely, will be too cold.
Ventilation windows are never located opposite each other and at the same level, since hot air will not have normal circulation and will not cover all the necessary heating areas. It will not mix evenly, so you need to carefully calculate the correct placement of the ventilation elements.
Exhaust windows are always located at a height slightly below the ceiling, because the overheated air mass rises up. If an outlet is provided for it, it rushes into the exhaust hole, which helps to timely clean the air in the room. Only under these conditions will the bathhouse be beneficial, and a favorable and healthy atmosphere can be created in it.

Types of ventilation

In different cases, depending on the design of the building and the total volume of the bathhouse, one type of ventilation is installed.

Natural ventilation

This type of ventilation system is based on the difference in temperature and pressure indoors and outdoors. The effectiveness of such ventilation is achieved by correct placement of the inlet and outlet windows. Thus, the entrance for external air is located next to, at a height of 250 ÷ 350 mm from the floor, and exhaust windows are usually on the opposite wall of the room, 150 ÷ 250 mm below the ceiling.

It is believed that this option is not particularly suitable for placing a steam room, since the hottest place in this room is its upper area, and the coldest place is the floor. Setting up natural ventilation in such conditions is quite difficult, but if you arrange its elements correctly, then even with this distribution of air flows you can achieve the desired effect.

Forced ventilation

There are special electronic systems for saunas and Russian steam baths, which are entrusted with control of temperature and air flow.

The control panel sets the desired temperature and humidity level, which must be maintained in the room, creating a comfortable atmosphere in the bathhouse. Such systems are carried out and connected by specialists, and such services are quite expensive.

Another option for forced ventilation is simpler in design and more affordable. This method of ventilating a bath can be called the most widespread, as it will create the right atmosphere regardless of the weather conditions “overboard”.

In this system, in addition to properly located ventilation windows, a device such as a fan operating for exhaust will be needed. Combined option It is especially good for baths located inside the house, where the ventilation windows are not built into the external wall, but a long ventilation duct is laid from it to them. In this case, the fan provides the required amount of air in and out.

The duct exhaust fan must meet the special conditions of “bathroom” operation

It should be noted that special fans are purchased for the bathhouse, which have enhanced waterproofing of the elements electrical diagram and mechanical parts. In addition, such devices must withstand high temperatures without losing their functionality. The working diameter and power of the device are selected depending on the volume of the room.

The required type of ventilation is selected individually for different rooms and types of baths, so when choosing a scheme, you need to carefully think through and calculate everything. Very often it makes sense to consider a combined scheme that combines natural circulation of air flows and the possibility, if necessary, to resort to forced circulation.

Video: basic principles and bath ventilation schemes

Common bath ventilation schemes

The diagrams below show different options. relative position heaters and shelves in the steam room, and the distribution of flows of supply, hot and mixed air that advises them.

First scheme ( A)

The most used ventilation scheme in a bathhouse is when the window for incoming air is located next to the stove, at a height of 250 ÷ 350 mm from the floor.

During heating of the heater, cold heavy air coming from the ventilation window moves a light hot stream to the opposite wall, lifting it up to the exhaust hole, which is located at a distance of 150 ÷ 250 cm from the ceiling.

Having gone all the way, from the bottom window to the top, hot and mixed flows cover the entire room, maximally warming the area of the top shelf located under the exhaust window. If there is insufficient air movement, install a fan in the upper ventilation hole.

A regulator in the form of movable blinds can be built into the inlet, which will help both regulate the intensity of the supply air and, to a certain extent, set the direction of the flow in the desired direction.

Second scheme ( b)

Natural intensive ventilation is carried out through the lower window, located on the opposite wall from the stove. In this case, the air movement is directed towards the heating device, where it picks up the hot flow emanating from it, rises and, in a wide arc covering the entire volume of the room, rushes to the exhaust vent.

This scheme is well suited for a bathhouse located in a house and having one external wall. In order not to extend the ventilation duct to the opposite side of the bathhouse, both windows are installed in the wall facing the street.

Third scheme ( V)

This scheme is suitable for a bathhouse with a leak. The window for air intake is located in exactly the same place as in the first diagram, near the heater. The exit is organized somewhat differently.

The air, after heating the upper area of the steam room, falls down and passes through the cracks of the flooring, thereby helping to evaporate the moisture collected there, which significantly extends the life of the wooden floor.

The exhaust ventilation hole is located in an adjacent room or in an isolated channel that no longer has access to the steam room. It is usually equipped with a fan to ensure stable air circulation along such a complex trajectory.

The scheme cannot be called very popular - it is used infrequently due to its difficulty in accurately calculating the location of ventilation windows, a rather labor-intensive device that ensures the movement of air flows in its cavity. However, it should be taken into account that it is very effective, and contributes to the most uniform heating of the steam room and, at the same time, helps the rapid evaporation of moisture from the wooden floor structures and their drying.

Fourth scheme ( G)

The fourth option is designed for a constantly operating furnace - only in this case its vent will serve as an exhaust hood. The supply window is located under the shelf installed on the opposite wall from the stove, at the level of its vent.

Cold air is directed towards the stove and lifts the air heated by it to the ceiling. Cooling down, the air masses are forced down and go into the blower hole.

There are also more complex schemes in which there are two supply and two exhaust ventilation windows with forced circulation air. Such a scheme requires careful adjustment, but it allows you to set the required room temperature as accurately as possible.

As mentioned above, the ideal option would be to install the ventilation system simultaneously with the construction of the bathhouse. If a ready-made room is being converted into a bathhouse, or its arrangement is being carried out, it is best to choose a room or separate a corner that has two external walls. In this case, there will be no problems with the design of the ventilation system.

If this is not possible and the bathhouse is located in the middle of a private house, then there are two options for arranging ventilation of the room - install a ventilation duct that connects the room with the street, or lead the ventilation pipe through the ceiling and roof. In this case, the pipe must be covered from above with a protective umbrella to prevent precipitation and fallen leaves from entering the ventilation ducts.

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Ventilation

Video: example of self-arrangement of bath ventilation

High-quality ventilation in a bathhouse solves two important problems:

providing people with the necessary amount of fresh air during procedures;
rapid reduction of humidity and drying of the bath after completion.

At the same time, the required temperature is maintained, comfortable conditions are ensured, the danger of musty odors, mildew, and mold is eliminated, and fuel consumption is reduced. If proper ventilation is not organized in the bathhouse, then its wooden structures will become unusable in just a couple of seasons.

Reliable ventilation of the bathhouse protects against the effects of carbon dioxide during stove heating.

If necessary, ventilation can solve the problem of quickly adjusting the temperature. In some cases, sick people or children require an accelerated decrease in temperature and its further maintenance at a new level.

According to current standards, high-quality bathhouse ventilation should ensure an air exchange rate of 5...10 room volumes per hour.

Natural or forced supply and exhaust air exchange using a fan can be used. Natural ventilation for a bathhouse is simple, has no energy costs, and is reliable. Its feature is the mandatory presence of air supply/exhaust vents with control dampers.

The combined version uses a fan to intensify air exchange. For the mechanical type of ventilation, control is carried out by humidity and temperature sensors.

Effective ventilation is necessary in all areas of the bathhouse

Proper ventilation for a bath should comply with the following principles:

when designing a bath it is chosen
arrangement of ventilation ducts, supply and outlet vents is carried out during construction;
the area of the exhaust opening must necessarily exceed the area of the inlet opening, otherwise it will not be possible to achieve access to the required amount of fresh air;
the calculation of the area of the ventilation hole is made from the dependence of 24 cm2 of the vent area per one cubic meter of room volume;
It is forbidden to place the exhaust and supply openings on the same straight line to avoid disrupting the correct air circulation;
Ventilation valves for the bathhouse must be installed at the inlet and outlet openings.

The presence of adjustment of the live cross-section of inflow and outlet allows you to:

significantly speed up the achievement of the desired steam room temperature with closed ventilation;
achieve comfortable conditions by regulating the intensity of air exchange;
adapt to weather conditions.

Combined ventilation in a bathhouse requires the use of fans with a protection level of at least IP44 with a heat resistance of about 130 degrees.

Ventilation in the bathhouse with your own hands - features of the device

Correct and efficient ventilation in the waiting room is organized according to the following rules:

hourly productivity should be three times the volume of the dressing room;
the inflow must correspond to the air outlet;
air movement is directed from the residential area to the economic area;
The most effective is considered to be combined air exchange with an exhaust fan;
The ventilation grille is installed at a two-meter level from the ground.

Let's look at how to do ventilation in a sauna dressing room with your own hands:

the door from the steam room should be as close as possible to the stove to ensure a comfortable temperature regime;
on the opposite side of the steam room, an vent 0.15x0.2 m is made with an adjustment flap;
install an axial exhaust fan;
the supply vent is installed at a height of half a meter above the floor;
under the floor of the dressing room, an air duct is installed to release hot air from the steam room, improving heating.

Ventilation of the floor in the bathhouse is extremely important, allowing it to dry quickly and ensure the durability and reliability of the coating. Basic rules for its implementation:

a cement screed is made in the underground with a slope towards the drain pipe;
Brick pedestals are used to secure the floor joists;
the foundation of the bathhouse under the flooring should have air holes on opposite sides, but not opposite each other;
when laying the flooring, provide gaps of about 8 mm between the boards;
arrange the finished floor mark above the level of the furnace vent;
Ventilation vents in the underground must be equipped with adjustable dampers and protective grilles.

5 best ventilation schemes for a bath

The best results are obtained by bath ventilation - the scheme of which corresponds to one of the five main options.

According to the first air exchange scheme:

the supply hole is made at the back of the stove 50 cm above the heater mark;
the hood vent with a fan is placed on the opposite wall at a level of about 250 mm above the zero level;
the cold air flow heated by the stove goes under the ceiling, cools, and descends lower to the hood opening;
Uniform heating of fresh air is guaranteed.

According to second scheme for air exchange:

air supply and exhaust holes are made on one wall opposite the stove;
the inflow vent is located at the bottom, 200...300 mm from the floor, and the hoods at the top, 200...300 mm below the ceiling;
a fan is placed in the exhaust hole;
During the circulation process, a flow of cold air goes to the stove, is reflected upward from it and goes under the ceiling to the hood.

The scheme is used when there is only one external wall used for air supply/exhaust openings.

According to the third scheme Ventilation in the steam room is carried out as follows:

the supply vent is located behind the stove 200 mm above the floor;
the hood hole is placed on the opposite wall, also 200 mm above the floor level;
To intensify the exhaust, a fan installed in the exhaust vent is used.

This scheme is characterized by fast, uniform heating of the air, freshness and comfort.

Fourth scheme Suitable for steam rooms with leaking floors:

a hole for inflow is made behind the heater 200...300 mm above the floor;
the air heats up as it passes through the heater and falls under the floor;
From there, the exhaust air goes up through the ventilation pipe and is discharged beyond the roof.

When the stove is constantly operating, the steam room is ventilated according to the fifth scheme:

the supply hole is made opposite the heater on the far wall;
The air exits through the stove ash pan.

Often ventilation in a Russian steam bath is performed according to the sixth scheme:

inflow occurs through an vent in the lower part of the wall behind the heater;
two outlet holes are made on the opposite wall;
the hood openings are connected by a flexible pipe and equipped with dampers;
during procedures, the upper hole is closed;
For quick ventilation and drying of the steam room, both vents open.

Considering the sensitivity of wood to high humidity, for ventilation of a timber bath is necessary:

Features of sauna ventilation

Although the principles are similar, sauna ventilation has some peculiarities. For various rooms For saunas, the following air exchange rates are recommended:

shower room – 50;
massage room – 5;
steam room – 5;
room for rest – 3.

Air supply and exhaust openings located on opposite walls are spaced diagonally.

Most often, sauna ventilation is performed according to two schemes:

Includes an air vent behind the stove above the floor. From the opposite wall there are two exit openings connected by a ventilation duct. The first outlet is made 100 cm above the floor, and the second below the ceiling. This placement improves the uniformity of air exchange throughout the volume of the steam room.
Provides a supply vent at the stove slightly above its level. The hood hole in the opposite wall is located 50 cm lower. For effective hood, a fan is installed at the outlet.

Floor ventilation in a bathhouse is an urgent need. Constant dampness of the floor covering will inevitably lead to rotting of the material, even with concrete base. And floors with areas of rot, mold, fungi become a source of various infections and unpleasant odor. And the durability of such an element will be short. To ventilate the floor of a bathhouse means increasing its service life without repairs and eliminating unhealthy effects on human body and ensure the comfort of the bath procedure.

Rot on the floor in the bathhouse indicates a lack of ventilation

Features of the problem

The floor in the bathhouse is in extreme conditions. Active moistening of the material occurs both from below (from the ground) and from above during the operation of the establishment. Particularly difficult conditions are created in the steam room, where saturated heated water vapor, in contact with the floor covering, cools and condenses. The resulting water penetrates into the material, creating a favorable environment for various harmful organisms. The destructive process is accelerated by increased temperature, which at the floor surface can be 30-40 degrees.

Conditions are not much better in washing department. Here, streams of water (both warm and cold) pour onto the floor from shower stalls and various watering containers. Moreover, the water is mixed with detergents, which increases the aggressiveness of the impact.

A more favorable environment occurs in the waiting room and rest room. However, even in these rooms one should not discount the possibility of steam from the steam room entering through an open door, as well as moisture from wet feet.

Ventilation of the floor in the bathhouse prevents the appearance of fungus and rot, and also draws out excess steam

On the soil side, moisture is caused by natural conditions. The most dangerous thing is the presence of highly located groundwater and rising water levels during prolonged precipitation, snow melt and flood situations. In principle, drainage systems and layers of waterproofing in the floor structure are intended to protect against the effects of this moisture, but they cannot completely eliminate the penetration of moisture from below.

nuance! Do-it-yourself ventilation of floors in a bathhouse is considered an effective way to combat the problem of dampness.

By providing an influx of fresh air, it speeds up the drying of the material during the period between bath procedures. It prevents condensation from accumulating on the surface, prevents microorganisms from actively developing, and removes polluted air from the room.

Principles of ventilation organization

Floor ventilation in bath rooms can be done using various methods. One of the most important elements of the system is the creation of ventilation spaces in the floor structure, which eliminates the accumulation of moisture inside, between the layers. The main system can be based on several characteristic designs: ventilation under the floor in the bathhouse, general ventilation of the bathhouse, blowing with warm air.

Structurally, any room ventilation must include an inlet for fresh air mass and an outlet for polluted air. To achieve this, all bath rooms are equipped with inlet and outlet ventilation openings (vents). In addition, if necessary, air ducts (air channels), dampers, and protective grilles are installed to ensure air supply at the right time and in the right direction.

Depending on the nature of the air flow, this process can be natural or artificial (forced). The first option is considered classic, in which the air flow moves spontaneously in accordance with the laws of convection, i.e. as a result of a temperature or pressure gradient. When such floor ventilation in a bathhouse occurs, the flow pattern has a characteristic appearance (Fig. 1).

Nuance! With a natural design, the entrance vent should be located as low as possible (under or near the floor).

The air, heating up, will rise upward, and this is where the outlet should be located. It is not recommended to ventilate the floor in the bathhouse through the attic, i.e. through a vent in the ceiling. Forming in the attic closed space, where all the harmful secretions gradually accumulate, which can then return through the hole to the bathhouse, but in a concentrated state.

Figure 1. Natural ventilation occurs due to the difference in air pressure in the steam room

Forced ventilation of a bath floor is based on the use of special equipment that creates a controlled air flow in the required direction. It is possible to use the following types of artificial ventilation:

Exhaust type: the influx of fresh air from outside occurs naturally, and the outlet is provided by an exhaust fan that forcibly draws out the exhaust air mass.
Supply type: fresh air is forcedly supplied using an inlet air fan, while it is removed from the bathhouse naturally through an appropriate vent.
The supply and exhaust type combines the listed technologies, combining forced air supply and air outflow.
The general exchange system is a complicated version of the previous ventilation. A unified air circulation scheme is created using air ducts, which makes it possible to control the volume, direction and speed of air flow.

There is an option for exhaust ventilation through the floor in the bathhouse to the outside

System design features

When arranging floor ventilation, it is necessary to take into account a number of specific conditions. The efficiency and comfort of the system is determined by the fulfillment of the following requirements:

preventing the floor from cooling during the bath procedure, it is especially important to ensure that there are no drafts (should not pull on the legs);
the volume of air mass must be sufficient to complete the assigned tasks;
fast, optimal drying should be ensured, especially in the presence of wooden floors, when dampness is unacceptable, but excessive drying, which can cause cracking of the wood, is also bad;
Ventilation should be installed at the bathhouse construction stage, when vents of the required shape and size are created, pipes are laid, and distribution channels (gaps) are formed.

When providing fresh air ventilation through the floor, it is necessary to ensure that cold air is not drawn across the floor.

The quality and characteristics of ventilation depend, first of all, on the location of the vents. When choosing a location for them, it is necessary to take into account climatic conditions (humidity and air temperature), wind conditions (“wind rose”), the landscape of the site, the presence of polluting sources, as well as internal factors - the type and location of the stove, the design of the doors, the presence of windows and vents.

Most often, the inlet for floor ventilation is located in the following places, at 3 different levels:

lowest level: in the foundation or under the floor covering;
directly under the stove or at the level of its base;
in the wall at a height of 35-45 cm from the floor (best behind the stove).

Most common options

Most often, when organizing floor ventilation in a bathhouse, the following are used: simple solutions:

You can ventilate a bathhouse under the floor by creating an air draft under the floor covering. To do this, the inlet hole is equipped below the level of the upper flooring, and the flooring itself is raised above the subfloor by 3-5 cm. A gap of 10-15 mm is left between the flooring boards.
Ventilation according to the Basta system. The air flow is provided under the stove, while the outlet is located on the opposite side. Under the floor, the air mass is directed through a duct lined aluminum foil. The size of such an air duct corresponds to the size of the chimney duct. This ensures hot ventilation of the floor in the bathhouse.
Ventilation riser. This system is often used in a washing room. In this case, an asbestos pipe is installed, which is led outside the bathhouse roof, which creates good air draft. Such a riser is usually equipped with a deflector.

Ventilation using the Basta system in the steam room

Features of the underfloor system

Ventilation installed under the floor of the bathhouse has a number of advantages. In addition to the fact that it helps eliminate condensation and ensure drying of the floor covering, the air flow hidden below cannot cause drafts, which means the system can also be used during the bath procedure.

For efficient work ventilation under the floor is important to properly arrange drainage system, i.e. permanently delete wastewater outside the bathhouse. Ventilation is ensured by installing 2 holes in the foundation. They are located on opposite walls, but not directly opposite each other. In general, the optimal option is when the air flow passes along a complex path, covering the maximum possible area. The vents are equipped with valves that allow you to regulate the fresh air supply time and flow rate. It is worth highlighting one of the types of outlet vent - a vertical hole through the entire thickness of the foundation to the ground. This channel also ensures moisture drainage.

The ventilation duct under the floor is formed by jumpers (logs), which are usually used as timber measuring 6-8 x 10-15 cm. These logs are mounted on concrete screed, made with a slope for drainage. The plank flooring is laid on top of the joists, and the boards are attached with a gap, which ensures the free flow of water. The valves on the vents open taking into account the outside air temperature. In summer they can be open constantly, but in winter active ventilation should be carried out only when there are no people in the steam room.

Installation of heated floors

One of the most comfortable and effective options is to make the heated floor in the bathhouse ventilated. To solve this problem, heated air must be directed into the ventilation ducts. In bath conditions it can be obtained using a stove. You can use a two-section pipe, which will provide ventilation for both the room and the underground. This pipe is directed through the sauna stove, and the air flow is divided in 2 directions: into the steam room and under the floor. It is desirable to equip such a system forced exhaust.

In the dressing room of the bathhouse you can build a warm floor with ventilation

advice! A warm floor with hot air ventilation must be well insulated from the ground surface to reduce the cooling of the channel from soil water (especially in winter).

To do this, waterproofing and an effective thermal insulation layer are laid. In the system under consideration, the external flooring is applied with the boards tightly fitting to each other, without gaps. The outlet of the system is combined with the chimney, which increases draft. The inlet and outlet openings are equipped with valves.

Ventilation of the floor in the bathhouse is considered important element its arrangement, allowing to prevent rotting of the material and increase the service life of the entire structure. With the help of ventilation, you can provide warm floors, which will increase the comfort of bathing procedures. You can provide a ventilation bath system with your own hands, but for this you need to take into account the specific requirements and recommendations of specialists.

Floor ventilation in a bathhouse is an urgent need. Constant dampness of the flooring will inevitably lead to rotting of the material, even with a concrete base. And floors with areas of rot, mold, and fungi become a source of various infections and unpleasant odors. And the durability of such an element will be short. Ventilating the floor of a bath means increasing its service life without repairs, eliminating unhealthy effects on the human body and ensuring the comfort of the bath procedure.

Rot on the floor in the bathhouse indicates a lack of ventilation

Features of the problem

Conditions in the washing department are not much better. Here, streams of water (both warm and cold) pour onto the floor from shower stalls and various watering containers. Moreover, water is mixed with detergents, which increases the aggressiveness of the effect.

Ventilation of the floor in the bathhouse prevents the appearance of fungus and rot, and also draws out excess steam

On the soil side, moisture is caused by natural conditions. The most dangerous are the presence of high groundwater and rising water levels during prolonged rainfall, snow melting and flood situations. In principle, drainage systems and layers of waterproofing in the floor structure are intended to protect against the effects of this moisture, but they cannot completely eliminate the penetration of moisture from below.

nuance! Do-it-yourself ventilation of floors in a bathhouse is considered an effective way to combat the problem of dampness.

Principles of ventilation organization

Nuance! With a natural design, the entrance vent should be located as low as possible (under or near the floor).

The air, heating up, will rise upward, and this is where the outlet should be located. It is not recommended to ventilate the floor in the bathhouse through the attic, i.e. through a vent in the ceiling. A closed space is formed in the attic, where all the harmful emissions gradually accumulate, which can then return through the hole to the bathhouse, but in a concentrated state.

Figure 1. Natural ventilation occurs due to the difference in air pressure in the steam room

Exhaust type: the influx of fresh air from outside occurs naturally, and the outlet is provided by an exhaust fan that forcibly draws out the exhaust air mass.
Supply type: fresh air is forcedly supplied using an inlet air fan, while it is removed from the bathhouse naturally through an appropriate vent.
The supply and exhaust type combines the listed technologies, combining forced air supply and air outflow.
The general exchange system is a complicated version of the previous ventilation. A unified air circulation scheme is created using air ducts, which makes it possible to control the volume, direction and speed of air flow.

There is an option for exhaust ventilation through the floor in the bathhouse to the outside

System design features

preventing the floor from cooling during the bath procedure, it is especially important to ensure that there are no drafts (should not pull on the legs);
the volume of air mass must be sufficient to complete the assigned tasks;
fast, optimal drying should be ensured, especially in the presence of wooden floors, when dampness is unacceptable, but excessive drying, which can cause cracking of the wood, is also bad;
Ventilation should be installed at the bathhouse construction stage, when vents of the required shape and size are created, pipes are laid, and distribution channels (gaps) are formed.

When providing fresh air ventilation through the floor, it is necessary to ensure that cold air is not drawn across the floor.

Most often, the inlet for floor ventilation is located in the following places, at 3 different levels:

lowest level: in the foundation or under the floor covering;
directly under the stove or at the level of its base;
in the wall at a height of 35-45 cm from the floor (best behind the stove).

Most common options

Most often, when organizing floor ventilation in a bathhouse, the following fairly simple solutions are used:

You can ventilate a bathhouse under the floor by creating an air draft under the floor covering. To do this, the inlet hole is equipped below the level of the upper flooring, and the flooring itself is raised above the subfloor by 3-5 cm. A gap of 10-15 mm is left between the flooring boards.
Ventilation according to the Basta system. The air flow is provided under the stove, while the outlet is located on the opposite side. Under the floor, the air mass is directed through a duct lined with aluminum foil. The size of such an air duct corresponds to the size of the chimney duct. This ensures hot ventilation of the floor in the bathhouse.
Ventilation riser. This system is often used in a washing room. In this case, an asbestos pipe is installed, which is led outside the bathhouse roof, which creates good air draft. Such a riser is usually equipped with a deflector.

Ventilation using the Basta system in the steam room

Features of the underfloor system

For effective operation of underfloor ventilation, it is important to properly arrange the drainage system, i.e. constantly remove wastewater outside the bathhouse. Ventilation is ensured by installing 2 holes in the foundation. They are located on opposite walls, but not directly opposite each other. In general, the optimal option is when the air flow passes along a complex path, covering the maximum possible area. The vents are equipped with valves that allow you to regulate the fresh air supply time and flow rate. It is worth highlighting one of the types of outlet vent - a vertical hole through the entire thickness of the foundation to the ground. This channel also ensures moisture drainage.

The ventilation duct under the floor is formed by jumpers (joists), which are usually used as timber measuring 6-8 x 10-15 cm. These logs are mounted on a concrete screed, made with a slope to drain the drainage. The plank flooring is laid on top of the joists, and the boards are attached with a gap, which ensures the free flow of water. The valves on the vents open taking into account the outside air temperature. In summer they can be open constantly, but in winter active ventilation should be carried out only when there are no people in the steam room.

Installation of heated floors

In the dressing room of the bathhouse you can build a warm floor with ventilation

advice! A warm floor with hot air ventilation must be well insulated from the ground surface to reduce the cooling of the channel from soil water (especially in winter).

Ventilation of the floor in a bathhouse is considered an important element of its arrangement, allowing to prevent rotting of the material and increase the service life of the entire structure. With the help of ventilation, you can provide warm floors, which will increase the comfort of bathing procedures. You can provide a ventilation bath system with your own hands, but for this you need to take into account the specific requirements and recommendations of specialists.

State standards for room ventilation are regulated by SNiP 41–01–2003; the document establishes the minimum rate of air exchange in rooms depending on their purpose and features of use. In residential premises, ventilation must perform two tasks - to provide favorable indicators of the percentage of oxygen in the air and to remove exhaust gases.

SNiP 41-01-2003. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning. File for download

SNiP 41–01–2003

For a bathhouse, ventilation tasks become more complicated; it must additionally remove moist air as quickly as possible (providing rapid drying of wooden structures) and regulate the temperature in the steam room. There are times when it is necessary to quickly reduce the temperature in the steam room before small children, the elderly or large people undergo procedures. The stove continues to give off heat for a long time, it takes a very long time to wait until the bathhouse cools down on its own. By ventilating a room, you can quickly set the desired temperature and maintain it within the specified limits the entire time people are in it.

What types of ventilation are there and how to calculate them

Ventilation can only exist in cases where there is an influx of fresh air into the room and an outflow of used air. You can often come across the concepts of “supply” or “exhaust” ventilation. These are not entirely correct concepts; it cannot be only an inflow or only exhaust ventilation, it is always only flow-exhaust. Why are these concepts used? Thus, it is emphasized that the influx or exhaust of exhaust air is carried out in a forced way, and, accordingly, the removal or supply of fresh air occurs naturally.

When calculating the parameters of ventilation systems, the initial data takes into account the volume and purpose of the premises, the presence of special air conditions in them, the presence or likelihood of the presence of carbon monoxide or other health hazards chemical compounds. Based on these data, government regulations set the frequency of air replacement per hour; it can vary from 1÷2 to ten or more.

Next, engineers determine the parameters and location of the channels to ensure the necessary air intake and removal, taking into account weather conditions and climate zone. If natural ventilation cannot provide the required frequency of air changes, then forced systems are used that supply/extract air with electric fans. Baths have their own characteristics for each type of ventilation; let’s look at them in more detail.

General rules for ventilation in a bathhouse

The principles of ventilation in a bathhouse largely depend on the architectural features of its design. If the floors have slots for draining water, then supply air can also be supplied through these same slots; there is no need to make a special hole.

Quite often, small windows are installed in the bathhouse; when opened, they “turn” into exhaust vents. In addition, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, the room can be ventilated even easier - open the firebox and, by changing the position of the damper, adjust the frequency of air changes.

These are the simplest options for a steam room (by the way, the most effective and low-cost), but there are cases when the furnace firebox is located in another room, there is no window, and the floors are solid without cracks. It is this kind of bathhouse that we will focus on in our article. Why do you need ventilation in the bathhouse?

For better air mixing throughout the entire volume. Natural convection air masses are not able to equalize the air temperature in height; the difference in values under the ceiling and near the floor can reach tens of degrees. This negatively affects the comfort of taking water procedures.
To bring in fresh air. If one person is steaming in the steam room, and the stay time does not exceed 20–30 minutes, then the oxygen concentration in the air will not have time to drop to critical values. And if several people steam at the same time in a steam room for a long time, then the flow of fresh air becomes mandatory.

Quite often, developers go to two extremes: in order to save heat, they abandon ventilation altogether or make it too strong and unregulated. Both extremes have Negative consequences, there is no need to neglect ventilation, it is cheap, and the positive effect is very impressive. But it should be done correctly, taking into account as much as possible the characteristics of the premises, temperature requirements in the steam room, materials for making walls and cladding.

In the case of a complete lack of ventilation, the risks of oxygen starvation and, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, increase carbon monoxide. In the case of strong unregulated ventilation, the heating time increases significantly, and warm air is quickly removed from the room. But this is not all the problems - the rapid removal of warm air automatically causes an equally rapid influx of fresh air - the floors will always be very cold, and this increases the risk of contracting colds.

Uncontrolled ventilation can lead to cold floors

The flow of fresh air into the steam room is arranged in two places: behind the stove or under the sun loungers.

There are many diagrams of air movement on the Internet, most of them were made by amateurs, you should not pay attention to them. Fulfill only two conditions: air flow at the bottom, exhaust at the top, placement of ducts diagonally in the room.

This is quite enough to ensure normal air circulation and mixing. Everything else is just speculation; it can only confuse inexperienced developers, significantly complicate the ventilation system, making it expensive and unreliable. There are options with two different-level exhaust valves, with two supply valves, etc. The holes for air removal are located at different heights.

One right under the ceiling, used only for complete ventilation of the bath after finishing the water procedures. The third is made 30÷40 centimeters below the first and is used during washing. Some craftsmen connect them together with internal air ducts, install several control dampers, etc. We assure you that these complications are not at all visible influence they do not affect the comfort of staying in the steam room.

A few words should be said about the ventilation ducts in the bathhouse; they are often suggested to be used in steam rooms. In large buildings, ventilation ducts serve to connect several different rooms to a common ventilation system, no matter whether it is natural or forced. This is completely justified from both technological and economic points of view.

What other rooms can be connected with ventilation ducts to the steam room? Weird question. Then, why make complex channels under the wall sheathing? Isn't it easier to make ordinary holes in the walls and insert ordinary pieces of pipes and grilles with elementary valves into them? Of course, we will tell you about a real, effective, simple and cheap way to install ventilation; we will not lay any ducts anywhere. This is a universal option, perfect for both “budget” and expensive exclusive doubles.

Video - Ventilation in the bathhouse

Natural ventilation of the bath

The most accepted option for most baths, minimal in cost and safety and quite effective. The specific locations of ventilation openings should be taken into account the size of the rooms, the location of shelves, the stove and the material of the building. General rule– the openings should be located at different heights, as a rule, the inlet (supply) 20 cm from the floor and the outlet (exhaust) 20÷30 cm from the ceiling. When choosing holes, you need to consider where the holes will be located on the external walls. It is advisable that they do not stand out too much on the façade walls.

The dimensions of the holes are approximately 300÷400 cm2, it is better to make them larger rather than smaller. In case of too rapid exchange of air, leading to a decrease in temperature in the steam room, the channels should be covered with control dampers. For improvement appearance It is better to use decorative grilles; they can be purchased in specialized stores or made independently.

The ventilation system is somewhat complicated and installation of electrical equipment is required. Another problem is related to the microclimate in the steam room. There, high temperature and air humidity are the main enemies of any electrical equipment. Fans must have reliable protection of the housing from moisture; during connection, the recommendations of the PUE must be strictly followed. And in order to comply, you need to know them.

The advantages of forced ventilation are that the rate of air change in the room is significantly accelerated and the control parameters are expanded. Natural ventilation is very dependent on weather conditions, and in some cases it can become ineffective. Especially if the wind is directed at right angles to the exhaust vent. Forced ventilation works with the same effectiveness in any weather and regardless of the direction and strength of the wind.

How to make ventilation in a bathhouse with your own hands

Initial data. The architectural features of the bathhouse do not provide for the flow of air through floor cracks, doors, windows or the furnace firebox. It is necessary to make holes for both air inlet and outlet. Internal and outer skin There are no walls, the bathhouse is built from sawn timber.

Step 1. Decide on the location of the input and output channels.

We have already mentioned that it is better to place the inlet channel near the stove at a distance of about 20 centimeters from the floor level. The outlet channel is diagonally under the ceiling. This position of the inlet and outlet openings will ensure the distribution of air flows throughout the entire volume of the room. In addition, the incoming air will not cool the flooring. Channels should be easily accessible. There are recommendations to make an outlet hole in the ceiling. We are against such a solution; humid air will certainly cause great damage to the entire rafter system.

Step 2. Purchase or make your own grilles and valves.

They can be of various sizes and geometric shapes: round, square or rectangular. At the same time, take into account the materials of the future cladding of the external and internal walls, think about how the decorative grilles will be attached to them.

Important. Be sure to install grilles with adjustable clearances; only they can ensure smooth adjustment of the frequency of air changes in the room.

And one more point - with outside bath openings must also be closed. Moreover, the closure should be as airtight as possible, preventing moisture from rain or snow from getting on the crowns of the log house.

Step 3. Make holes in the walls.

The most labor-intensive operation will have to be done manually. You need to pre-drill holes around the perimeter in the marked places. The closer they are to each other, the easier it is to hollow out the wood later. When the holes are drilled, take a chisel, chisel and hammer in your hands and begin to destroy the beams remaining between the holes. The holes for ventilation should be made 1-2 cm larger around the perimeter than the pipe being inserted. The fact is that this pipe then needs to be insulated to prevent the appearance of condensation on wooden structures.

Use only a sharp chisel and a chisel - you will have to cut the timber across the grain, this is quite difficult. If the thickness of the beam is 20 centimeters, then it is better to make half the depth of the hole from the inside of the bathhouse, and the other half from the outside. If you have extensive experience using a gasoline saw, then you can cut out the hole. But we immediately warn you that working with a gasoline saw in such conditions is very dangerous. You will have to cut with the end of the bar; when you grab the tree with the lower part of the chain, the saw will be pulled out of your hands. This method of using a saw is strictly prohibited by safety regulations, remember this.

If there is a need to separate the inlet hole in the wall and in the bathhouse, then buy a pipe with an elbow. It is advisable not to use round pipes, and rectangular, they occupy less space under the lining of the internal walls of the steam room.

Be sure to seal the joints between the elbow and the pipe with silicone and wrap it with tape for reliability.

Metallized adhesive tape

Step 4. Place foil or plastic film and mineral wool, the layer of wool should be dense, without gaps. It will not be possible to make the edges of the hole absolutely even; be careful that the waterproofing is not damaged by the sharp protrusions of the timber.

Step 5. Insert the pipes into the holes in the log house. They should fit in with little effort, quite tightly. In order to increase the reliability of sealing and fastening, be sure to use foam around the perimeter of the hole and pipe. Polyurethane foam eliminates all invisible gaps in thermal insulation between the pipe and the wall and firmly fixes it in the desired position.

We recommend foaming the holes and after covering the walls, the foam will eliminate the gaps between the wall and the vapor barrier. As the foam expands, the vapor barrier will press tightly around the uneven hole, all possible small damage will be automatically closed.

The exhaust pipe may not be insulated; warm air escapes through it. But we advise you to do all the operations for her, just in case. Firstly, you will lose a little time and money. Secondly, you will provide additional and reliable protection against penetration wooden structures atmospheric moisture.

Once both holes are prepared, you can begin covering the walls and installing decorative grilles with adjustable throughput parameters.

Important. When installing steam room ventilation, we strongly advise you to ventilate the space between the wall cladding and the aluminum foil. The work is carried out according to the algorithm described above with one difference. Ventilation should be either constantly closed (during water procedures) or constantly open (during ventilating the bath). Using foil as a vapor barrier for walls has many positive aspects. But there is one problem - the difficulty of removing condensation between the sheathing and insulation. An ordinary hole solves all problems and completely eliminates damage to wood.

Video - DIY ventilation

How to make a hole in a log house using a crown

If you do not want to make holes for ventilation manually, you can drill them with a special metal crown. They are sold in stores and are inexpensive. The only problem is that the crown requires a powerful low-speed drill or a hand-held drilling machine; ordinary drills can quickly fail due to the heavy load. Another limitation is that the maximum diameter of crowns is rarely more than 120 mm. But for most baths, small volumes of this size are sufficient.

Step 1. Select a crown suitable diameter and secure it in the socket. Mark the drilling location.

Step 2. To ease the cutting force, be sure to lubricate the bit with machine oil. Lubrication must be repeated periodically. Once the bit is about two-thirds deep, stop drilling, remove the bit and re-lubricate its internal and external surfaces.

Step 3. Mark the center of the hole with any thin drill bit. Insert the crown into the shallow hole and begin drilling the beam.

Step 4. Drill as far as the crown height allows. Carefully monitor the operation of the electric tool and do not allow heavy loads. Loads are regulated by the force of pressing the crown against the beam.

Step 5. The crown no longer works - take it out and gradually remove the cut wood with a chisel or chisel. It can be removed quickly, start gradually chipping away the holes in the corners. Do not cut the log across the grain with a chisel; chop it only along the grain, this makes it much easier to do the job.

Repeat the operations until the hole becomes through. If the timber is so thick that the drill cannot get through one side of it, move to the other. To do this, you need to find the center of the hole already made as accurately as possible. The crown has its own centering drill, but its length may not always be enough to reach the reverse side. You'll have to find the center yourself. To do this, install a thin wood drill in the drill, insert it into the existing hole from the centering drill of the crown and very carefully make a through hole. The more accurately you drill the center, the easier and faster it will be to work on the other side of the wall.

Video - How to drill a hole with a crown

Heated sauna ventilation

Quite an original way of arranging ventilation; it not only lends itself to Fresh air, it immediately warms up. This is very important in winter; it not only improves the comfort of your stay, but also speeds up the heating of the premises and saves firewood.

Air is taken from the bottom of the bath and, with the help of electric fans, is supplied to the air intake duct.

The stove has a metal chimney, a special screen is installed around the chimney, and air from the air duct enters the screen channels. The screen performs two functions: it protects the limbs from burns and serves as a radiator to heat the air coming from the air duct. The heated air exits the screen into the steam room.

If desired, you can improve the design a little. Place a tee with a damper on the air duct. This will allow you to take in both air from the bathhouse and from the street - the possibilities for regulating the microclimate parameters in the room are significantly expanded.

Video - Ventilation in a steam room with heated air

Ventilation in the bathhouse: how to do it

Ventilation in the bathhouse is simply necessary. First of all, ventilation is intended to ensure the safety of people who take bath procedures.

Everyone knows that when breathing a person inhales oxygen and exhales carbon dioxide. In a tightly closed room, after some time he will begin to suffocate. And in a steam room, where the temperature and concentration of water vapor are high, this will begin to happen even faster.

After relaxing on the shelf, you may simply not have time to get to the saving door of the bathhouse. The cost of an incorrect ventilation device can be prohibitive.

The second important factor is wood rotting. Enjoying and benefiting from bath procedures while smelling rot and mold is very problematic. Therefore, proper ventilation in a Russian bathhouse is the key not only to its benefits, but also to the health of vacationers.

Experts believe that a ventilation device in a bathhouse in which the air in the room is changed three times in one hour can be considered correct. The ventilation scheme in the bathhouse is selected depending on the type of structure and the materials used in the construction of the walls.

General principles of ventilation in a bathhouse

The correct design of a bathhouse and ventilation in it, regardless of the type of structure, is based on the following basic principles:

The fresh air that enters the steam room should not disturb its temperature regime;
Exhaust air, which contains the most carbon dioxide;
The arrangement of air in the steam room should be layered: the hottest air is under the ceiling, on the bench it is as comfortable as possible and the coldest air is near the floor.

Note!
There should be no draft in the steam room!

If all these principles are followed, then bath procedures will bring the maximum effect for which they are designed - restoration of mental and physical strength.

Ventilation device in a free-standing wooden bath

Wood is considered an ideal building material for a bathhouse. Wooden walls“breathe”, so the issue of air exchange is partially solved naturally.

However, even in wooden building In the steam room, ventilation is necessary. At a minimum, for quickly drying the wood after taking bath procedures.

The operation of a sauna stove plays a major role in air exchange processes. When water is poured onto the heater of the sauna stove, a column of hot steam is created that rises upward. As it cools, it lowers, pushing the used air out of the steam room.

Together, the above factors make it possible to create the necessary humidity and temperature in the steam room, and ensure normal air circulation.

Let's take a closer look at the ventilation system in wooden baths. The main tasks for us, naturally, will be to ensure the flow of fresh air and the removal of exhaust air. Our instructions will help you cope with these tasks.

Ensuring air flow

The correct log house is laid in such a way that lower crowns were free. With this installation, access to fresh air from the street is ensured.

In addition, around the steam room door, in any case, there will be gaps sufficient for its entry. The stove in such baths is placed closer to the door so that it heats up immediately.

If the steam room is designed for 6 or more people, a separate air duct is connected to the heater, which supports the combustion process. If you make this air duct double, then the problem of fresh air supply is solved once and for all.

Exhaust air removal

If the heater is fired directly from the steam room, then the exhaust air is discharged through the firebox into the chimney of the bathhouse. If the stove is installed correctly, no additional holes are required.

In order to dry the room after completing the bath procedures, a small hole (up to 200x200 mm) can be cut in the wall. During the heating and operation of the steam room, it is closed with a special plug.

If the steam room has a window, such a hole is not needed. Sometimes a window from the steam room is cut into the washing room, and in the washing room either a through hole to the street or another window is made. Thus, when drying, two birds are killed at once, both the steam room and the washing room are dried.

Thus, the myth that ventilation is not needed for a wooden bathhouse is confirmed if the following conditions are met:

The steam room is designed for 2-4 people;
The lower crowns of the frame are laid freely;
The stove-heater is heated directly from the steam room;
There is a hole or window in the wall for ventilation.

Actually, such family baths are usually built on personal plots.

Ventilation device in a free-standing brick bathhouse

A brick structure, as well as a structure made of foam concrete, expanded clay blocks and other permanent structures, is another matter. Ventilation in brick bath more complex.

The first difference is that floors in a brick building must be ventilated. The thing is that the floors in the bathhouse are constantly in contact with water, and if they are solid, then the boards will have to be replaced approximately every three to four years. You don’t even have to talk about unpleasant odors and mold.

Ventilation of the floor in the bathhouse is laid at the stage of foundation construction. To do this, special holes are made in the foundation on opposite sides. These holes will provide through air circulation under the floor and drying of the joists.

The second difference is the mandatory presence of special supply and exhaust openings in the steam room. There may be several of them. Two supply holes are made at floor level and covered with grates to prevent rodents from entering.

There are 4 most popular schemes for ventilation in a bathhouse, from which you can choose the most suitable one for you.

Scheme No. 1. The supply hole is located behind the stove at a distance of 50 cm from the floor. An exhaust hole is cut in the opposite wall no higher than 30 cm from the floor. A bath fan is installed on it, which will ensure air circulation.

According to this scheme, the air in the steam room is heated evenly, the incoming air is heated by the stove and rises. As it cools, it falls down and exits through the outlet. The lower it is located, the stronger the air flow will be. When using a fan, a ventilation valve can be installed at the outlet.

Scheme No. 2. Suitable for those baths where the stove is heated from the steam room. In this case, the influx is made directly under the stove. The flow of fresh air is sucked in by the stove, supporting combustion, and provides an influx directly into the room.

The exhaust vent is located above the floor and a corrugated pipe is connected to it, which rises up to the roof level and goes out onto the street. In other cases, the ventilation duct is made in the wall.

Note!
If the walls of the bathhouse are made of expanded clay concrete blocks, then it is best to install ventilation ducts during construction.

Scheme No. 3. According to this scheme, ventilation for the bathhouse is arranged through cracks in the floor. In this case, the supply hole is made in the wall near the stove at a height of 30-50 cm from the floor. The air, heating up, rises and exits through the cracks between the floor boards into the basement. It is thrown out from the basement space using a special pipe.

Note! For the normal functioning of this type of ventilation, it is necessary to leave 5-10 mm gaps between the floorboards.

Scheme No. 4. This scheme is suitable in cases where the stove also heats other rooms.

Fresh air is sucked in by the stove through holes in the floor and, passing through the firebox, goes out into the steam room and into the washing room. It is removed from the premises through openings located below, above the floor level.

There are also combined ventilation schemes, but to install them yourself, you need to consult with a specialist.

The video in this article will help you understand clearly how ventilation is arranged in a bathhouse.

How to install ventilation in a bathhouse in a steam room

Russian bathhouse is very good for health. The fundamental point in its construction is well-equipped ventilation in the bathhouse in the steam room. This room usually has very high temperature and humidity. Properly organized air circulation is a necessary condition.

Often, many homeowners doubt whether ventilation is needed in a steam room. The proposed material will allow you to correctly answer this question and solve all problems with arranging ventilation without much difficulty and without significant material costs.

Ventilation in the steam room is necessary for air circulation

Why is ventilation needed in a steam room?

Proper ventilation of a steam room helps solve the following problems:

maintaining a comfortable indoor temperature;
health safety;
preservation of wood used for interior decoration steam room

Ventilation vents in the steam room help regulate the temperature and keep the wood from dampness and fungus longer.

If the ventilation of the steam room in a Russian bath is not arranged correctly, the appearance of such negative factors as:

rapid cooling of heated air;
accumulation of gases during procedures;
premature rotting of finishing materials;
the appearance of harmful microbes, bacteria, mold, fungi;
unpleasant smell.

The proposed material will describe in detail what properly organized ventilation should be like in a steam room in a bathhouse; video and photo materials will clearly illustrate all the key points.

Basic principles of steam room ventilation

A specific ventilation arrangement scheme is usually selected taking into account the architectural features of the building itself, size, number of rooms, etc. In this case, it is necessary to strictly observe the basic principles of arranging ventilation systems for steam rooms in Russian baths. If they are violated, various negative phenomena posing a serious threat to the health and life of vacationers.

The inlet for supplying fresh air is located slightly above floor level. To ensure that the incoming air is immediately warmed up, the inlet is located in close proximity to the furnace.

The outlet for used air is located under the ceiling. The main thing is that the air inlet and outlet be arranged on opposite walls.

Important! Under no circumstances should these holes be placed at the same level! The air in the internal space will not circulate fully. There will be a temperature difference that poses a serious health hazard.

The dimensions of the inlet and outlet holes must be identical. They are selected depending on the dimensions of the internal space of the steam room. For 1 cu. m of air, a pipe diameter of 24 cm is required. If necessary, additional air vents can be installed.

The ventilation of the steam room is arranged in such a way that the exhaust air is completely replaced every 3-4 hours. This is required by sanitary and fire safety standards.

The ventilation hole in the bathhouse is equipped with valves to regulate the air flow

The ventilation device in the steam room of the bath requires the mandatory placement of a system of valves. You can use special blinds for this. This will allow you to regulate the volume of air in and out. If necessary, the bath can be heated or cooled very quickly and without much difficulty.

You need to think about how to make ventilation in the steam room of a bathhouse when drawing up a project. This will allow you to correctly place everything ventilation pipes, holes, etc. during construction. This will allow you to properly equip the mines, lay pipes and perform all other work. Install an air circulation system after completion construction work it will be much more difficult.

Before building a bathhouse, it is necessary to consider the location of the ventilation ducts in the bathhouse.

Types of ventilation systems for steam rooms

Ventilation in the bathhouse in the steam room (see photo) is used in 3 types - natural, forced (i.e. mechanical) and combined. The choice of a specific system is made taking into account factors such as:

the size of the steam room and the dimensions of the building as a whole;
it is possible to correctly place exhaust pipes;
the material from which the bathhouse is built;
use of the sauna all year round or only during the summer season.

Warm air is lighter than cold air. Therefore, with properly equipped ventilation in a steam room, heated flows rise to the ceiling and are gradually drawn out through the ventilation hole. Air coming from outside is immediately heated by the stove and passes into the room without creating a temperature difference. This is the basic principle by which ventilation works in a steam room.

Natural ventilation

The natural ventilation system provides air exchange due to different levels of pressure and temperature in the internal space (in the steam room) and outside, i.e. on the street. When exhaust air exits through the outlet, the internal atmosphere in the room is discharged, creating conditions for drawing in cold air through the lower inlet. In this case, you need to pay special attention to the insulation of the bath. Otherwise, high-quality heating will not work.

Natural ventilation in a steam room in a frame bath is most often used for buildings small size, built from breathable material, i.e. wood. In this case, small gaps in the log walls become additional elements of the ventilation system. The main advantage of natural ventilation is its low cost.

Forced and combined ventilation

A mechanical or forced ventilation system in a steam room bath may be necessary if:

the total area of the bathhouse is large;
the structure was erected from brick, cinder blocks, stone;
the steam compartment is very large;
exhaust pipes cannot be placed correctly;
increased power oven.

Do-it-yourself forced ventilation of a steam room can be installed without any problems. The following are used:

fans;
supply valves;
deflectors.

Forced ventilation in the bathhouse is suitable for large rooms

Nuance! The ventilation system in a bathhouse in a steam room heated by a gas water heater requires the installation of a separate ventilation duct.

The combined ventilation system is equipped using elements of both systems described above. Fresh air enters naturally, i.e. through the lower inlet. Extraction of exhaust air masses is ensured by mechanical devices.

How to choose a fan for a steam room

A classic duct-type fan is not suitable for a steam room. Fever and humidity are detrimental to such devices. Special fans are used in the steam room. The material for their manufacture is glass-filled polyamide. Similar models resistant to moisture and can withstand temperatures up to 130°C.

Glass-filled polyamide is an ideal material for making steam room fans

The fan model is selected in accordance with the technical characteristics.

Something to remember! Ordinary room fans can only be used for final drying and ventilation of the steam room after taking procedures and subsequent cleaning.

If you have funds, you can install it in a steam room for ventilation in the bathhouse self-regulating system. This device will automatically provide air inflow and outflow, temperature, and humidity level. It is advisable to purchase such systems only from trusted manufacturers.

Basic schemes

What ventilation can be like in a steam room in a bathhouse, the diagram, video and other materials attached below will clearly show. You just need to choose 1 of the 4 attached options and correctly complete all the necessary work.

According to diagram A, the inlet for fresh air is located below the stove. The outlet channel is mounted on the directly opposite wall under the ceiling.

The exhaust pipe is installed vertically. Its length is calculated so that the upper edge of the pipe rises slightly above the ridge of the roof. This will ensure normal functioning of the ventilation system during periods of strong winds.

Diagram A of the location of ventilation in the bathhouse

Properly selected dimensions of air exhaust pipes will ensure natural circulation of air masses. Additional adjustment is provided by installing dampers.

The use of scheme B is intended only if only 1 of the walls of the steam room can be used for ventilation. Air openings are located opposite the heater. The inlet hole is raised 30 cm from the finished floor. The exit window is lowered 20 cm from the ceiling covering.

Diagram B Location of ventilation ducts opposite the heater

The air passing through the lower inlet is heated by the furnace and rises upward in the direction of the air outlet. Mechanical pulling devices are required for the system to function properly.

According to scheme C, it is possible to provide ventilation not only for the steam room, but also for the underground space. The inlet hole is installed in the wall behind the heater. It needs to be raised above the finished floor by 20 cm.

Diagram C with air flow under the bath floor

The heated supply air passes into the base through the cracks of the leaking floor. Then it returns to the steam room and moves in the direction of the exhaust hole. From here the exhaust air masses come out.

For a constantly used bathhouse, you can use ventilation according to scheme D. In this case, the inlet hole is located at the bottom, but opposite the stove, and not behind it, as in other options. The height above the floor is 20 cm. Exhaust air is extracted using a blower and a chimney.

In order for the ventilation in the steam room to work effectively, it is necessary to choose the right location for the heater. It is most convenient to arrange it inside the paired compartment. If the stove is placed in an adjacent room, the efficiency of using the ventilation system and the heater itself will be noticeably lower.

Preparatory work

To install ventilation in the steam room, you need to prepare the following materials:

brick and/or stone;
cement and sand;
ventilation ducts;
ready-made valves or material for their manufacture;
a metal sheet;
lining for lining the box;
fastening materials - nails, screws, self-tapping screws.

To work you will need the following tools:

hacksaw;
Bulgarian;
hammer;
screwdriver;
tape measure, level, plumb line;
construction mixer;
drill or hammer drill;
set of spatulas;
container for mixing the solution;
technical knife;

It is better to carry out the work in special clothing. If necessary, use gloves and a respirator.

Installation of supply ventilation

The inlet channel for supplying fresh air is located in close proximity to the firebox of the sauna stove. It is advisable that the inlet hole be located above a sheet of metal sheathing that protects the wood from accidental ingress of small coals.

First, you need to make a box from a suitable material. Its dimensions should exceed the dimensions of the chimney by about 20%. The outer opening of the box is located on the outer wall. It is not advisable to place it in the base.

If the firebox is located in the steam room itself, a convection box is additionally installed. Near the wall in which the air inlet is located, you need to lay out a podium of bricks placed “on edge”. They are laid out in 3 rows - under the wall, in the middle and on the edge.

The masonry for the stove is built to a height of 25 cm. It must be brought up to the brick screen and must be covered. To ensure that the newly incoming air passes directly into the oven, it is better not to lay the last 2 bricks. The end is lined with brick.

The convection box is installed completely. A blower is equipped at the end. A protective underlay is placed underneath to protect the floor covering.

When the podium is completely ready, you can start installing the stove. To distribute the load evenly, it is advisable to use a metal corner.

After final installation Stone or brickwork is installed around the stove. To form a gap, it is moved 5-6 cm from the stove. Next, a special screen is installed. You need to form holes in it for the passage of hot air.

Installation of exhaust ventilation

The outflow box is installed diametrically opposite to the inlet hole. It is raised above the finished floor by 30 cm. The internal area of the box is approximately 1.25 m².

The outflow box is led through the wall to the ceiling and an external outlet is arranged for it. You can exhaust exhaust air into an adjacent room. In this way it will be possible to warm it up without extra costs.

Exhaust ventilation can be placed on top of the ceiling

To avoid accidental burns, the chimney duct must be lined with a brick or stone casing. In this case, a special hole with a door must be left at the bottom, which will serve as a blower. An additional hole equipped on top will allow the chimney to be used as heat pump, this will create both heating of the room and proper air circulation.

How to ventilate a Russian bathhouse

Correct ventilation in the steam room of a Russian bath does not involve the use of any mechanical devices. Otherwise, the heated air will be vented outside very quickly. The effectiveness and pleasure of bath procedures will be significantly reduced.

The Russian bathhouse uses natural ventilation, where air flows out through a window

Therefore, the Russian bathhouse must be thoroughly cleaned, ventilated and dried after each use. For ventilation, a special window is installed in the wall located opposite the door. You can use a mechanical hood. The door must be kept open when ventilating.

Leaves from brooms and random objects must be removed from the floors. Then you need to wash all surfaces and dry them with towels and/or a special absorbent cloth. This will protect against the formation of mold and the proliferation of harmful microorganisms. After cleaning, airing and drying, the steam room is ready for further use.

The steam room in the Russian bath is combined with a washing room, so it needs to be dried after each use

How to warm up a Russian bath

First you need to light the oven. The outlet openings must be kept closed. Only the input is opened.

Having warmed the room to the desired temperature, you need to open the valve of the lower air outlet pipe. This will ensure proper air circulation. The temperature will not drop.

In order to warm up the oven, you need to open the valve in the Russian bath oven

Passing into the box from below, the heated air will gradually displace cool air masses to the outlet. When passing through the box they will provide additional heating of the room. At the same time, ventilation of the steam room will also take place.

If the ventilation is not working properly

When using the steam room, it is necessary to periodically check the serviceability of the ventilation system. With good air circulation in the steam room, it is always easy to breathe, the body is heated evenly, the temperature and humidity are maintained at the required level.

If the ventilation in the steam room was installed incorrectly or became unusable over time, signs such as:

abundant condensation on vertical surfaces;
mold, especially in the corners;
noxious odor;
uneven air heating;
drafts;
slow setting of the required temperature;
excessively rapid heat loss;
an unpleasant internal atmosphere that makes breathing difficult.

Mold in the steam room indicates a lack of ventilation

If at least 1 or 2 of the above factors are present, it means that the ventilation in the steam room is not equipped correctly. Another option is clogging and/or damage to the system, the need for urgent repairs and/or thorough cleaning of individual elements or the ventilation system as a whole.

Clogged ventilation ducts interfere with its operation

From all of the above, it becomes clear that properly ventilating a steam room in a bathhouse is inexpensive and not very difficult. However, this requires careful adherence to all technologies. The attached video “How to make ventilation in a steam room” will help you avoid mistakes.

Is ventilation necessary in a modern bathhouse?

Is ventilation needed in a bathhouse? Many people have doubts about this question. On the one hand, sanitary standards indicate the need to update the air in any room where a person is located, but, on the other hand, ventilation can cool down the bathhouse, where it is difficult to maintain the necessary heat. A bathhouse is a very specific institution, and you should thoughtfully approach solving the problem.

Ventilation for the steam room

The bathhouse includes several rooms that differ in their functions. Therefore, it is important to understand whether ventilation is needed in a Russian bath.

The heart of any sauna is the steam room. If we consider a Russian bath, then it provides an environment of saturated water vapor with a humidity of up to 80% and a high temperature of 60-65°C. A classic steam room is a small isolated room. Several people can be in it at the same time for quite a long time.

People inhale oxygen and exhale carbon dioxide, which can accumulate in a confined space in the absence of fresh air. In a stagnant steam room environment, excessive concentrations of carbon dioxide, sweat secretions, bacteria and microbes occur, accompanied by unpleasant odors.

Attention! The answer to the question of whether ventilation is needed in a steam room is clear – it is necessary.

The second problem is the destruction of the construction material. A Russian bathhouse is most often constructed of wood, and wood is subject to rotting when exposed to moisture for a long time, especially in a confined space at high temperatures. Saturated water vapor condenses upon contact with any colder surface, which causes the presence of water in the material. As a result, microorganisms that destroy wood actively develop, mold and fungi develop. If proper drying of structural elements is not ensured, then rotting will quickly render the structure unusable. This problem is not limited to wood. The process with varying degrees of intensity is typical for any building material, incl. concrete.

An analysis of the conditions that arise during the operation of a sauna steam room indicates that there is no need to doubt whether ventilation is needed in a sauna. Only an influx of fresh air will avoid sanitary problems and destruction of the material in the steam room.

Features of other premises

When considering whether ventilation is needed in a bathhouse, you should not think that only the steam room should be ventilated. All bathhouses are in difficult conditions.

The washing compartment is a constant flow of heated water, often mixed with detergents. Showers can be installed here, and this causes water to splash and actively moisturize the structural elements. When you open the doors from the steam room into the washing room, clouds of steam rush in and condense on the walls and ceiling. In this room, moisture accumulation is the same acute problem as in the steam room, although the air temperature is much lower.

The dressing room plays the role of a locker room; the furnace firebox can be located here. There are no high temperatures in this room, and the humidity may rise slightly when opening the doors to the steam room or the entrance doors when it is damp outside. Big problem creates a stove firebox, from which combustion products of fuel still come out of any chimney.

In more favorable conditions there is a rest room. It ensures normal temperature and humidity. However, ventilation will not hurt here either. After taking a bath procedure, you want to relax in a calm environment, and breathing in fresh air is one of the conditions for comfort.

Principles of bath ventilation

Ventilation in the bathhouse is necessary to bring in fresh air, eliminate unpleasant odors, dry the construction material and prevent rotting. Its arrangement is dictated sanitary standards And technical parameters. There are no regulatory documents for private baths, so their owners must take into account the recommendations of specialists.

On a note! When operating a bathhouse, you can apply the advice from the manual “Methodological recommendations for the design of bathhouses and bathhouse complexes” for public institutions, because their fundamentals take into account the basic requirements for comfortable operation.

This document proposes the following air renewal regime in bathhouses:

steam room – up to 5 times per hour;
washing room - 8-9 times per hour, and if there is an isolated shower - up to 11-12 times per hour; rest room – 2-3 times per hour.

There should always be fresh air in the bathhouse, in which only the aroma of wood is felt, medicinal herbs and a steamed broom.
In winter, cold air cannot be supplied near the floor; it is better to supply it at the top, where the air mass quickly warms up.
Before each visit to the steam room, the environment in it should be completely updated.
Between bath procedures, it is necessary to thoroughly dry all structural elements (floor, walls, ceiling, shelves).
Oxygen is burned out by a hot stove, so its replenishment must be ensured, with the simultaneous removal of carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide.
When arranging ventilation, it is necessary to take into account the laws of air convection, when the heated mass always rushes upward, displacing the cold mass downward.

Features of ventilation arrangement

Ventilation in a bathhouse can be natural or forced. In the first case, it is ensured by the free circulation of air mass coming from the street. Air movement occurs due to the difference in temperature and pressure. This method is considered the most common in Russian baths. Forced ventilation requires the installation of air intake and exhaust devices. They allow you to suck in the required volume of air from the outside and direct it to the right place.

On a note! Simple and effective option refreshing the steam room is the so-called burst ventilation. It ensures the flow of air through the open entrance door, and the exit of stagnant air occurs through a window on the opposite wall.

Such operations should not be carried out if there are people in the steam room, but ventilation between procedures gives a quick effect. The duration of burst ventilation is 3-5 minutes.

More complex options provide special air inlets. There are several bath ventilation schemes with different locations of these holes:

classic: the inlet is made near the floor at a height of 25-35 cm behind the stove, and the outlet is on the opposite wall near the ceiling 30-35 cm lower;
with a constantly operating stove: the entrance is near the floor on the wall opposite the stove, and the exit is provided through the stove chimney;
when using an exhaust fan: the entrance behind the stove is at a height of 0.3 m from the floor, and the exit is on the opposite side slightly lower (20-25 cm from the floor), which ensures air circulation throughout the room;
the entrance and exit are on the same wall, both equipped with fans: one hole near the floor and the other near the ceiling.

Ventilation in the bathhouse is necessary in all bathhouses. It will provide comfort, sanitary safety and reduce the risk of structural damage from moisture. When arranging the system, it is necessary to take into account the recommendations of specialists.

How to make ventilation in a sauna: design options, device and materials. Types and purpose of ventilation in a log bathhouse Exhaust ventilation devices in a bathhouse

Prices for heat-resistant fans

How to choose a fan

Prices for radial fans

Where to locate the inlet/outlet openings of forced ventilation

What types of forced ventilation of a bath are there?

Forced supply ventilation

Prices for valves for fresh air ventilation

Forced supply and exhaust ventilation

Prices for ventilation ducts

Prices for PVC ventilation ducts

Algorithm for installing forced ventilation of a bath

How to make ventilation ducts

How to check the functionality of forced ventilation

Video - Types of forced ventilation

Video - Ventilation in the steam room

The principle of operation of ventilation in a bathhouse

Important nuances of planning a ventilation system in a bathhouse

Types of ventilation

Video: basic principles and bath ventilation schemes

Common bath ventilation schemes

Prices for ventilation systems

Video: example of self-arrangement of bath ventilation

Effective ventilation is necessary in all areas of the bathhouse

Ventilation in the bathhouse with your own hands - features of the device

5 best ventilation schemes for a bath

Features of sauna ventilation

Features of the problem

Principles of ventilation organization

System design features

Most common options

Features of the underfloor system

Installation of heated floors

Features of the problem

Principles of ventilation organization

System design features

Most common options

Features of the underfloor system

Installation of heated floors

SNiP 41-01-2003. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning. File for download

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Video - Ventilation in the bathhouse

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Video - DIY ventilation

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Video - How to drill a hole with a crown

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Video - Ventilation in a steam room with heated air

Ventilation in the bathhouse: how to do it

General principles of ventilation in a bathhouse

Ventilation device in a free-standing wooden bath

Ensuring air flow

Exhaust air removal

Ventilation device in a free-standing brick bathhouse

How to install ventilation in a bathhouse in a steam room

Why is ventilation needed in a steam room?

Basic principles of steam room ventilation

Types of ventilation systems for steam rooms

Natural ventilation

Forced and combined ventilation

How to choose a fan for a steam room

Basic schemes

Preparatory work

Installation of supply ventilation

Installation of exhaust ventilation

How to ventilate a Russian bathhouse

How to warm up a Russian bath

If the ventilation is not working properly

Is ventilation necessary in a modern bathhouse?

Ventilation for the steam room

Features of other premises

Principles of bath ventilation

Features of ventilation arrangement

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