How to lay floor tiles in a bathroom. How to lay tiles on the bathroom floor with your own hands without mistakes

Plastic mixing bowl - 1
Grater with sponge - 2;
Graters made of metal - 3.4;
To lay tiles with dimensions of 300 mm or more, you will need a spatula with teeth of 10 mm - 5;
When constructing a floor from a small tiles will do spatula with teeth 4-5 mm - 6;
Thanks to the rubber grater, excess solution can be easily removed if necessary - 7;
Brush - 8.

Also, for reliable installation of tiles in the bathroom you will need:

Mallet - a rubber hammer. This tool is designed to remove air voids between the tiles and the concrete base. Desired effect achieved by tapping on the surface of the finishing material;
Shovel-trowel;
Cutter knife that can be used to cut ceramic tiles (6 mm). If the tile thickness is greater, use a construction cutter to adjust the shape.
Wedges or crosses made of plastic, with the help of which the distance for seams between tile elements is set;
Bulgarian;
Square for correcting even laying;
Plumb;
Building level;
Reiki;
Pliers.

2. Preparing the base of the bathroom floor

The floor surface for tiling must be flat, regardless of the base material ( concrete slab, reinforced concrete or wooden floor).

Correction of the concrete surface can be done by level screed based on cement and sand. Components for leveling mixture:

Sand;
Cement powder;
Water. The amount of water is determined during mixing mortar, the consistency of the mixture should resemble sour cream;
The optimal thickness for screed is about 3-5 mm.

The proportion of the cement component to sand is 1:3 (for rooms with high wear resistance requirements). If laying tiles is planned for a cottage or apartment, a ratio of 1:4 is sufficient.

Instructions for preparing a concrete floor after leveling:

It is necessary to clean the base from debris and dust with a brush, while the floor surface must remain dry;
With help cement-sand mortar all gaps should be filled, then the surface is sanded;
The cement layer must dry thoroughly, after which the surface can be impregnated with a primer. An aqueous solution with the addition of a primer promotes more reliable adhesion to concrete;
Instructions for preparing the primer solution are on each package;
Carefully distribute the composition using a spatula over the entire base.

If the masonry is planned in a room with a high level of humidity, the load-bearing base should be protected by installing a waterproofing layer.

Thanks to proper waterproofing the base of the floor is protected from the destructive effects of moisture. As a rule, special mastics are used as a protective layer. Coating with mastics occurs after applying the primer solution to the base. After waterproofing is installed, a metal mesh is placed on the concrete floor.
Creating markings before laying tiles

Before you start laying tiles with your own hands, you need to make detailed markings as follows:

Take measurements of the dimensions of the bathroom;
It is better to designate those corners that will be the beginning of the masonry separately, and also think over the sequence of actions and direction;
If the tile has been cut, it is better to place it in a less noticeable place, for example in the corner of the room;
When several types of different tiles are assembled, it is convenient to use special dividers - metal thresholds.

Thanks to high-quality markings, you can optimize all finishing work, avoid defects during the installation process, as well as the appearance of unevenness on the surface. Please pay close attention to this point.

How to markup correctly?

Start laying tiles from far corner the outer wall, or from the middle of the room, moving towards the door. The first method allows you to use tiles in original size, without trimming, the second method is characterized by maximum connection to the shape of the room;
It is better to orient the tile row parallel external wall rooms. Thus, the space will look neat;
During the marking process, you should take into account the shape of a particular tile, determine the size of the seam between the tiles and maintain this distance over the entire floor area;
In order to fix the desired position of the elements, use plastic crosses, which can be purchased at hardware stores. The width of such wedges is about 1.5-2 mm;
The concrete surface itself should be marked. This approach facilitates the preparation to be carried out correctly;
The installation gap between the tiles hides the error of individual tiles, which is allowed by manufacturers. The distance established on the eve of work hides such an error.
Also, the presence of a gap ensures the safety of the cladding material. When temperature changes occur, the tiles will not crack;
Transverse and longitudinal marking guidelines are not enough. After laying the first row, it will be difficult to continue working correctly;

It is better to place tiles with decor in advance and think about the placement on a real scale. Thus, you can understand whether the planned image fits completely, or whether it needs to be adjusted in size. Preliminary actions will allow you to obtain a spectacular floor covering with beautiful decor;
Provided that the decor is small, try to choose a place for its arrangement that will be viewed to the maximum and will not be crowded with furniture in the future;
In the case of a large-scale drawing, evaluate which part can be closed without significantly losing the idea.

3. Main stages

Using a special spatula with teeth on inside the tiles spread the adhesive prepared the day before installation;
It is recommended to point the spatula at a certain angle to the surface, about 40 degrees. This way the composition will remain on the material;
It is necessary to act quickly, since the glue dries quite quickly;
You should not put strong pressure on the tiles when laying them, as the surface may become distorted - become uneven, damaged decorative properties material;
Constantly check the evenness of the installation with a special device - a level or a corner;
Tapping with a mallet promotes better adhesion of the tiles to the base;
The wedges for forming gaps are removed approximately an hour after laying the ceramic tiles. After 24 hours, the seams can be treated with a sealed compound;
The final stage is cleaning up any remaining glue and stains.

The seams should not be rubbed within 24 hours after laying. At this moment, the glue shrinks. If you rush and rub the gaps right away, cracks will appear in the material quite quickly.

4. Grout

There are several rules for applying grout after laying tiles:

The consistency of the grout should resemble thick sour cream;
Using a rubber spatula, seal the gaps between the tiles with the resulting composition;
Pressing the spatula against the seams, guide it in a herringbone pattern along the joint;
With the final movement of the tool, remove excess grout.
A joint filled with grout can be impacted with a small piece of cable round section, leveling the thickness of the filling.

Remaining joint sealing material can be removed after one hour. Use a rag or sponge soaked in water for this. Subject to regular wiping (every 3 hours), the substance will gain maximum stability properties. The recommended number of such impacts is two or three times.

As a rule, four to five days are enough for the composition to dry completely.

5. Cutting facing material

Most often, this action is applied to the outer rows located near the walls. Trimming the tiles is done using a grinder, tongs, and a glass cutter.

To make a neat and precise cut, you should use a special machine designed for cutting tiles. This device allows you to achieve an accuracy of up to 1 mm.

6. Prices for laying tiles in Moscow

Laying ceramic tiles for a bathroom floor without screed: about 600 rubles/sq.m;
Grouting joints between elements: about 100 rubles/sq. m;
Leveling screed for laying tiles: from 200 rub./sq. m and above.

7. Video

It is useful for anyone who has started renovations in their apartment to know how to lay tiles on the floor in the bathroom - because in this way you will significantly save on hiring professionals, you will be able to lay the tiles correctly, and get a beautiful bathroom that will please the eye every day.

The process of laying tiles on the bathroom floor has its own nuances, and it is important to perform correctly not only the installation process itself, but also preparatory work, and also choose the most suitable material so that the tiles are not only durable, but also beautiful and last you a long time.

You will learn about all the nuances of preparing and laying tiles (how long it takes to dry, preparing the surface, how to lay it on a wooden floor, how to level the surface, etc.) in the article.

Videos and photos will help you cope with the work, even if you have not done it before, and do high-quality repairs In bathroom.

Tile is the most common material for laying in the bathroom, both on the walls and on the floor. The explanation for this popularity is quite simple - tiles are noticeably superior to other types of coating.

It is very easy to clean, dirt and dust do not stick to it, and it is resistant to even the most aggressive detergents.

Tiles - environmentally friendly pure material, does not highlight any harmful substances and absolutely safe for humans.

Ceramic floor tiles have a wide range design solutions– you can easily select any material desired color to decorate the interior of your bathroom.

This material has almost zero electrical conductivity, so you can lay it on the floor even in very damp rooms and not worry about damaging the wiring.

Types of tiles can be seen in the photo.

To choose a coating, you need to focus not only on its aesthetic properties, but also know how to determine its quality so that repairs do not have to be done again soon.

In order not to make a mistake and buy tiles specifically for the floor, make sure that the packaging contains a mark with feet on a black background.

Since tiles are often exposed to cleaning agents, it is better to choose a coating marked “AA” - it has the greatest resistance to alkali and acid.

When buying tiles, you can choose from several types. For example, you can purchase porcelain stoneware with a non-slip surface - it has a ribbed or matte rough texture and is very convenient to use.

True, this one will cost a little more than usual. Tiles are commonly used for bathroom walls because... tiled is quite fragile and can quickly be damaged when laid on the floor.

It is better to choose mosaic material for the floor - it is durable, it is not difficult to install, it is quite cheap and has many design options.

The most important thing to pay attention to, besides the type of tile, is its resistance to moisture. The flooring must also be durable and resistant to physical impact.

If you do not plan to lay tiles annually, then it is better to immediately choose quality material, which will last at least 5 years, for example, classic Italian coating.

How it looks, look at the photo in the section.

Floor preparation

Before you start laying the flooring in the bathroom, you need to prepare the room for work and level the surface. First, you need to remove all furniture from the room.

The floor needs to be leveled before laying the covering, only then will it lie beautifully. One of the most important stages all work - leveling the surface.

There is also a simpler option - lay the new coating directly on the old tiles, then leveling is not necessary.

This is simpler, but in this case the adhesion of the materials will be poor, and the coating will begin to move away from the floor over time.

Plus, this will reduce the height of the room, so it is better not to use this method in a small bathroom.

Put away old material you can use a hammer and chisel, and then clean off the solution or old glue, on which it was laid. Then you need to check the evenness of the floor using an optical level.

In order to remove unevenness, you can fill the floor with a leveling mixture. See the packaging for instructions on how to apply it yourself.

The initial layer of the mixture should not exceed 1.5 cm, otherwise it will not dry out and it will be impossible to lay tiles on top.

After drying, the surface is additionally primed to ensure better adhesion to the coating.

Laying tiles on a wooden floor is generally no different from laying on concrete base. However, the wooden floor itself is not durable.

Before laying, the wooden floor must be dismantled - remove the old boards, and then level the surface: fill it with a leveling mixture, or level it with a sheet of plywood and boards, the thickness of which is at least 3 cm.

Most reliable option– make a screed on a wooden floor, then you don’t have to worry that it won’t hold up and the covering will crack or otherwise deform.

You can follow this process in more detail using photos and videos.

Leveling and preparing the floor for laying tiles also requires waterproofing work. You can see the stages of waterproofing in the photo.

Many people are too lazy to do this with their own hands, but professionals are advised not to neglect this process, because tiles are usually laid in the bathroom, where there is running water and there is a real threat of leakage. It is especially important to do waterproofing before laying a water-heated floor.

In addition to the floor, the lower part of the bathroom walls is also treated - a high-quality waterproofing layer should cover 20-30 cm from the height of the room.

After carrying out the waterproofing work (you can learn more about how to do it yourself by watching the video and photo), you need to make a screed, especially on a wooden floor.

Carrying out this process correctly will ensure that the coating will lie flat. After filling the floor with the mixture, 1-2 days must pass before it is possible to lay tiles on top.

Drying time depends on the thickness of the layer; you can find out exactly how long you need to wait by reading the instructions on the package of the mixture.

Laying the material

After the preparation is completed and you have successfully completed the task of “leveling the floor,” you can begin laying tiles in the room. Ceramic tiles are most often used for installation.

The material can be laid only after priming, waterproofing and other preparations have been completed.

A primer will make your DIY installation work much easier, so don’t neglect this process.

Before gluing the tiles, you need to prepare: lay them out on the floor to see how they will lie.

If the material needs to be cut, then it is better to lay such parts from the edges so that they are less conspicuous. Begin gluing the coating from any far corner of the room.

To glue it, you will need special glue; how much to dilute it depends on the size of your room - you can look at the proportions on the packaging.

Before gluing the covering, it is better to mark the floor with chalk or a marker - this way you can immediately fix the tiles evenly.

This should be done at the same time as you try on the tiles and choose the pattern with which it will be laid.

You need to spread the mixture on the floor with a notched trowel, and then press the tile tightly to the treated surface and tap the edges with a hammer to improve adhesion of the material to the floor.

Before you start gluing the material with your own hands, it is better to look at the photos and videos with instructions, especially if you have not done this before.

Make sure that the adhesive is evenly distributed on the floor, otherwise some tiles will be higher or lower and this will have to be corrected.

How much glue is needed is written in the instructions, but, as a rule, it is about 8 kg per square meter.

In order for the tiles to be laid evenly, a cross must be inserted between each piece, along which a seam will be formed.

Do not forget to check the height and horizontality of laying the tiles according to the level, otherwise the coating will be laid unevenly and this will be noticeable.

First of all, you need to lay out solid tiles, and only then can you begin installing the cut parts.

To cut tiles, use special tool– with a tile cutter, or you can do this with a regular hacksaw. The cut tiles are mounted on the sides.

After laying the material is completed, the finished coating should be left for 2-3 days until it is completely dry.

However, you need to immediately remove the crosses between the seams, because the material dries quickly, and after hardening it will no longer be possible to do this.

After the material between the plates has set and hardened, the seams must be treated with a sealant.

The easiest way to do it with your own hands is classic styling. There are other types - most the hard way– lay the tiles diagonally (this method is also called diamond laying).

This type of installation is more expensive, because... more material will be required, and more complex, but it looks more impressive than standard way styling

If you want to lay the tiles in a diamond shape, then be sure to mark the pattern first and lay out the tiles in accordance with it.

After you have finished gluing the tiles, wait until the material dries and then wipe it with a damp sponge to remove any remaining sealant.

You can look at the video and photo for different installation methods and choose the one that best suits the design of your bathroom.

Laying flooring is not so difficult, the main thing is to correctly complete all the steps: choosing tiles, preparing the surface and laying the material.

After this, you will receive high-quality and beautiful flooring in your bathroom.

Currently, the most practical type of flooring in the bathroom is ceramic tiles. This floor is easy to care for and continues to for a long time look very good. After proper preparation, ceramic tiles can be laid on almost any substrate. And today, continuing the series of articles on our website, we will talk about how to lay tiles on the floor.

All operations will be done in the following sequence:

We prepare the surface.
We decide on the floor design and choose ceramic tiles.
We are planning to lay tiles on the floor.
We do installation.
We rub the seams.

Preparing the surface

Since we are doing a DIY renovation in the bathroom, it is initially assumed that we already have some kind of floor. We need to bring this floor into proper shape.

AND the first stage When preparing the surface, it will be necessary to determine how well this floor is laid. In my case it was classic version for bathrooms of the Soviet period, the floor is laid with “brown boar” - the most common floor finish of those times. Mainly, since the tiles were laid on cement mortar, it holds very poorly and is placed very crookedly.

We arm ourselves with a chisel, hammer, sledgehammer and safety glasses - remove all the old tiles. This is not a very difficult matter, the main difficulty is to knock down the cement baseboard around the perimeter of the bathroom and make the surface flat.

Second stage It is necessary to determine how horizontal the surface is.

To do this, place a horizontal mark on the wall at a convenient height. (Since I was completely tiling the bathroom, I combined this procedure with marking the horizontal rows of tiles on the walls). Using a hydraulic level, we transfer the height of this mark to all 4 walls of the room so as to draw a continuous horizon line on the wall along the entire perimeter of the room. We measure the distance to our floor from this line. Ideally, the distances on all 4 walls should be equal, which means the floor is horizontal and nothing needs to be done.

In my case, when checking the floor for horizontality, a height difference across the floor level of 1.5-2 cm was discovered, although the size of the bathroom is very small - 1.45 m. in width and 2.2 m in length. For such a small space, I think this is a big difference. Moreover, the most high level was in the opposite corner diagonally from the lowest one. All this needed to be fixed:

At the highest point, we retreat from the floor a distance equal to the thickness of the floor tiles plus the thickness of the seam. This totals approximately 1 cm;

We put a horizontal mark on the wall;

We measure the distance from our mark to the horizon line that we drew earlier;

We transfer this distance from the horizon level along the entire perimeter of the room;

Let's draw our new horizon floor, this will be the finished height of our new floor.

If in your case the height difference is significant (more than 2 cm without taking into account the thickness of the tiles), you will need to first level the surface. This is done using a special floor leveler - or, if the difference is very large, using a cement screed with beacons positioned.

In my case, the difference was not very large, and I decided to remove it by changing the thickness of the adhesive layer under the tile.

Third stage We finally prepare the surface. It must be well cleaned, any loose elements, grease and oil stains must be removed, and the dust must be vacuumed up. It is advisable to prime porous surfaces.

Deciding on the floor design and choosing ceramic tiles for the bathroom

There are a huge variety of ways to lay tiles on the floor. It all depends on your room, its size, lighting, furniture arrangement, plumbing fixtures and much more. You can lay tiles in the classic way“seam to seam” with clear rows in the longitudinal and transverse directions parallel to the walls.

They use the method of laying tiles staggered; for example, only the longitudinal seams match, and the transverse seams are offset.

You can use the diagonal laying method, i.e. the seams in the longitudinal and transverse directions will be parallel to the diagonals of the room.

Having a large room, it would be advisable to lay out some kind of design on the floor. This will decorate the floor very well and add a certain unique flair.

At this stage, you need to think about what size tiles you want to see. If the bathroom is not very good big size It would be advisable to choose small tiles.

A product catalog from a trusted online store will help you with your choice, for example: http://nashaplitka.com.ua/catalog/plitka/

If you want to save on the cost of materials, then you need to correlate the size of the tiles and the size of the room. For example, if the room is 3 meters wide and 3 meters long, it would be more advisable to choose tiles measuring 30 cm * 30 cm. When laying it, there will be no waste at all, all the tiles will be intact, and accordingly the floor will look very impressive. And vice versa, if you choose a tile 33 cm * 33 cm, then there will be a lot of trimming, and accordingly there will be a lot of waste.

We are planning to lay tiles

We bought the tiles, now we begin the installation process itself. Most of the tiles produced have square section, or at least are rectangles with angles of 90˚. Most rooms, however, are far from square shape. Most walls have deviations, both from the straightness of the walls and from verticality, internal corners very rarely they are 90˚. And there can be many such construction flaws. This doesn't mean your home was built terribly, it's quite normal.

It is necessary to mark the laying of tiles so that:

In the most visible place (for example, at the entrance to a room or a place where the eye immediately falls), the tile lay parallel to the wall and was not cut;

Regardless of the position of the walls (walls can also form an irregular rhombus), the laid tiles formed a regular square (or rectangle);

The tiles were cut in the most inconspicuous place (for example, under the bathroom);

After laying the main surface at the junction of the floor and the walls, narrow strips for insertion were not obtained, because cutting a very narrow strip from a tile is problematic. It’s better to move the entire picture a little towards another wall.

Based on these principles, in my bathroom I first laid out one row along and one row across the room. I oriented the rows into the correct rectangle relative to the wall with the entrance. The goal was: at the entrance, place a whole tile at the floor level of the entire room of the apartment, make trimming to the right of the entrance (under the bathroom) and place whole (uncut) tiles to the left of the entrance.

For the correct orientation of the rows in the longitudinal direction, we measure the distance from the wall to our row at the beginning of the row and at the end. The distances must be equal. If necessary, slightly adjust the row by shifting it. We achieve parallelism of the row to the wall.

We draw out the position of the longitudinal and transverse rows and remove the tiles.

On this preparatory stage ends. We decided on the rows, the arrangement of tiles, and the height of the floor. In my bathroom, I started laying with a whole tile of a whole (not cut) outermost row, which is located opposite the entrance - to accurately match the floor level in the bathroom with the floor level of the entire apartment.

We carry out installation

To lay tiles, we need the following tools: a hammer with a rubber striking part, 2 levels (long and short), a tool for cutting tiles, a marking pencil, a ruler, a notched trowel, an ordinary trowel, a container for preparing glue, crosshairs for seams.

The tiles can be laid using ready-made glue (sold in buckets, already diluted and ready for use) or you can prepare the adhesive solution yourself by purchasing it in dry form. I used dry powder.

It is easy to dilute according to the instructions written on the package. Until you have the skills to work, don’t cheat a large number of, it’s better to add a little later.

We lay the first tiles according to our markings, checking their horizontalness in the longitudinal and transverse directions.

To accurately match the floor level in the bathroom and the floor level in the entire apartment, I laid the next tile adjacent to the entrance. We check the floor level according to our drawn marks for the height of the finished floor on the wall and, if necessary, slightly adjust our three tiles in height.

Setting up the first guide tiles is the most difficult and time-consuming step. After its completion, we lay the tiles in a row up to the wall in one direction.

And up to the wall in the other direction. We orient the horizontality of the row according to our three exposed tiles and the finished floor height marks on the wall.

We lay the first outermost, but always whole, tile of the next row.

We align it along our existing row, applying a level in the longitudinal and transverse directions. We achieve a uniform floor plane and insert a seam cross to maintain the identity of the seams. We leave all the tiles that will be trimmed for the end.

We lay out the entire second row, and lay out the last whole tile of the third row, similar to the previous procedure.

The procedure for laying tiles in a row is as follows:

We lay the tiles close to the two already laid. Align the tile relative to these two tiles in the horizontal plane.

We apply a level in the transverse direction of the row and achieve a plane, similarly in the longitudinal direction of the row. We check the horizontalness diagonally so that the free corner of the tile does not lift up. We insert seam crosses and set the straightness of the seams.

We check that the junction of the four tiles is at the same level and that no corner is sticking out.

After these operations, it is advisable to see how the laid tiles look in the general background and whether the seams are straight. In this way we lay out all the intact (that are not trimmed) floor tiles.

AND the last stage there will be a laying of the outer tiles joining the walls. We will all be trimming them in a certain way, so it would be advisable to first cut them all and number them, and then put them in place. When marking, it is necessary to take into account the width of the seam between the tiles.

It is convenient to do this entire procedure after the bulk laid tiles will finally stand up and the glue underneath will harden. This will make it possible to walk freely on the floor and mark all the tiles to be cut. and I wrote in detail in the following articles. This is not a very complicated matter, but it is impossible to do without it.

We rub the seams

The last step in laying tiles on the floor will be grouting the joints. For your bathroom, it is imperative to choose a moisture-resistant grout that can withstand repeated wetness. How to choose it, what colors to choose and how to fill the seams correctly is a separate and very multifaceted topic. I plan to cover it in the next article.

Having laid all the tiles around the perimeter of the room and filled the seams, we get this picture of the finished floor.

Laying tiles on the floor - difficult task, but with proper planning and good preparation, it becomes much easier and will no longer seem impossible. By working carefully, slowly and enjoying the work, you are guaranteed a great result.

When approaching such serious types of work as laying tiles, I always tell myself: “I don’t need to follow the plan and lay twenty in one day. square meters. I do not receive a salary from production here. I get the satisfaction of doing the work with my own hands here.”

Approach complex repairs in the same way, and everything will work out and move forward very, very quickly.

In the article, I tried to describe in as much detail as possible the process of how to lay tiles on the floor in my small bathroom. You may have some of your own nuances and features. Don't be afraid, approach difficulties creatively, apply creative solutions.

Good luck with the renovation work.

Today we will look at how to lay tiles on a bathroom floor. To lay floor tiles correctly, you don’t need to have much knowledge. Laying ceramics on the floor is easier than on the wall, since a person walks on this surface and, looking at it from a height, may not notice the unevenness of the floor.

1

When performing installation work, plumbing fixtures that are installed for years have a significant impact. They cannot be moved or their position changed. These include the bath bowl, toilet, sink and other plumbing fixtures and pipes. They are the ones who cause inconvenience and possible types marriage at work. How to lay tiles on the floor yourself? We will try to consider the answer to this question today.

Laying floor tiles yourself

Some owners of their apartments and houses, for the sake of cleanliness and beauty, try to lay tiles in the bathroom with their own hands, but having just the desire to do this is not enough. To begin with, the owner should study the entire process of laying floor ceramics or look at an example of how such work is performed correctly. And only after that you can start laying the tiles yourself, or better yet with an assistant.

When renovating a bathroom, you should be careful with plumbing fixtures and new building materials, since the room is small, uncomfortable, and also cluttered. Let's take a closer look at the process by which they install floor tiles. It is optimal to start by installing the floor in place under the bathtub, and only after that should the bathtub be installed. After installing the bathtub, the floor tiles are laid.

2

So, how to lay tiles on the floor and what are the features that affect installation? First you need to remove all possible plumbing items. To start right renovation work, you need to examine your old floor and identify any deficiencies that need to be addressed. If there are old tiles on the floors, they must be knocked down manually using a hammer. Gets confused old screed to a flat surface.

Removing old tiles

You need to prepare a flat surface for the tiles in the bathroom, and to do this, level it with a cement screed. In this case, it is imperative to waterproof the surface; you cannot skimp on it. Then pour concrete and carefully level the floor. Only after taking such measures can you begin laying tiles. To properly lay tiles on the bathroom floor, you need to take into account all the intricacies of working with this building material.

3

For repairs you will definitely need:

rubber spatula;
level;
crosses for marking the width of seams;
insulation;
primer;
glue;
tile;
sand;
cement.

When choosing tiles, you should not skimp on the price and quality of materials. It happens different sizes And original design. Thanks to the variety of options today, you can choose flooring to suit every taste and budget.

After cement strainer dry, you need to clean the surface from debris and dust. Laying tiles on the floor initially involves priming the floor, but the peculiarity is that the primer is not diluted before use, but is applied to the surface in its original form. For these types of work, a liquid primer solution is used. It is poured into a bucket or basin and applied to the floors using a thick brush.

Prime the surface before laying tiles

When applying primer to the surface, you should look at the “reaction” - foam should form on the floor. This indicates that the concrete screed is well saturated with the solution and needs time to dry. The soil may take 1-3 hours to dry, but professionals prefer to leave it overnight to ensure best quality. When starting work in the morning, you can once again saturate the floors with liquid soil to optimal quality styling

Next important point- priming the surface with glue. Some craftsmen overlook it and consider it unnecessary, since the tiles are still installed with glue. But priming with glue is necessary for better quality work.

Applying glue to the floor

To lay tiles on the bathroom floor, you should designate approximate rows for the tiles. Floor ceramics are laid in rows along the floor covering. Some experts consider two rows of tiles next to each other. For the first row of tiles, you must constantly use a level. The row can be started both horizontally and vertically in the room. Everyone has their own technology here. Your first step is to apply glue to the surface using a special notched trowel. They apply glue to the surface, after which they level it using the teeth. These actions must be performed in the direction of one row.

4

How to glue tiles on the floor so that the rows are even and of high quality? First you should consider the ceramic product itself with reverse side. There should be an arrow on its surface indicating the direction in which the material should be laid out. If we are going to lay tiles in vertical paths, then the arrows should point upward in their direction. If you place the tiles correctly, you will end up with smooth seams with minimum distances from each other.

How to glue tiles? Take the product and apply it to it using a comb. thin layer glue using upward movements. This rule is used to fill possible gaps in the floor and tiles and to ensure that the free space between the tiles and the screed is filled.

Next, we lay the tiles on the surface ourselves and align them with our row. To lay the product evenly, some use a level. For this leveling, it is best to lay several tiles at once. Once you have managed to lay out the ceramic product of the first row, there will be no problems with subsequent rows.

Laying tiles on the bathroom floor

The glued tiles must be tapped and pressed to ensure density of installation and checked by level so that the surface is even.

Nuances when laying tiles may include improper uniformity of seams and lack of teeth. When laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands, you should use special cone-shaped crosses. Before laying out the adjacent row, it is necessary to insert such crosses into the floor surface at the joints of the tiles. They align the width of the seam within the required size. After laying the ceramics, the crosses are immersed in concrete. However, if you are making a bathroom floor, the area of the room is usually small, so a slight deviation from the norm will not be noticeable.

If you lay the floor covering on large area, then all the unevenness of the joints will be evident. Therefore, for such work it is better to use crosses. An unpleasant moment when renovating a bathroom is that the ceramics in the places where the legs of the bathtub and toilet are installed will have to be cut using a tile cutter or grinder to get the correct bend. This requires experience and patience.

The final stage of repair is grouting. Seams are the distance between tiles. The floor is grouted after the glue has completely dried (this takes up to three days). You can buy dry grout at a hardware store. This mixture is diluted with water to form a paste. Put it on rubber spatula, after which the seams are lubricated with it. When the paste has dried, you can straighten the seams with your finger and remove any remaining paste with a dry cloth.

Laying tiles does not count complex look works You can learn this. The main thing is to have the desire and the necessary construction material and tools. And be sure to use our tips.

Our site is dedicated to the installation of heated floors, but it would not be complete without information on self-installation tiles, because this is the final stage of organizing floor heating. In this article, using the example of a bathroom, we will tell you in detail how to do everything yourself.

Leveling the floor before installation

The key to obtaining quality flooring, is a flat base. In this case, the working surface must be assessed according to two criteria:

The presence of a slope relative to the horizon line;
Surface smoothness.

Moreover, the first parameter is not so critical. Based on the fact that the vast majority of bathrooms have small sizes, then the height difference is very small, maximum 2-3 cm.

The second parameter, surface smoothness, is more noticeable. Protrusions, depressions, cavities - all this will complicate the installation of tiles in the bathroom with your own hands on the floor.

The most the best way Elimination of all base defects is the organization of screeds. At the same time, use in such small room quick-drying and self-leveling screed will be the optimal choice of material.

To determine the amount of mixture, you will need:

Laser level;
Roulette.

Everything that is on the floor is removed from the bathroom. Old tiles preferably dismantled. Clean the surface from any remaining solution. If you don't change the bathtub, it may remain. The laser level is installed on the floor surface. Turn it on and use a tape measure to measure the distance from the floor to the beam in different corners of the room. To the biggest difference in the results obtained, add 1 cm, this will be the thickness of the screed.

Considering that 1 m 2 of screed with a thickness of 1 cm weighs ≈14 kg, you can accurately determine the amount of dry mixture. For example: the maximum difference in height was 1.5 cm. Add 1 cm, and it turns out that the maximum thickness of the screed is 2.5 cm. Bathroom area is 5 m 2, multiply by 2.5 and 14. It turns out 5x 2.5 x 14 = 175 kg of dry mixture will be needed to organize the screed. Please note that we took into account the greatest thickness, which means that part of the mixture should remain.

Work progress:

To level the base you will need:

Primer;
Fast-hardening leveler;
Capacity 40-50 l.
Drill with a nozzle for stirring the solution.
Roller with spikes.
Paint brush.

The floor is swept and primed. Applying a primer improves the adhesion of the screed. It dries within 40-50 minutes. The dry mixture is diluted according to the manufacturer's instructions. Typically, 10 kg of mixture requires 3 - 3.5 liters of water. The solution is mixed using a drill with a nozzle and poured into the bathroom, starting from the far wall. If you didn’t take out the bathtub, then the solution is poured under it too! Since the mixture is self-leveling, there is no need to monitor the level.

After pouring, you need to walk over the surface with a spiked roller. This procedure will free the screed from residual air bubbles.

The mixture hardens quickly enough, and you can walk on it after 3-4 hours. But to lay the tiles you will need to wait at least a day.

How to choose the right tile

Our recommendations will concern only the sizes and tones of ceramic tiles. To make the room look more spacious, use tiles light colors, medium size. Optimal choice 20 x 20 cm. When working with such material, fewer seams will form, which means the moisture resistance will be higher. And if you consider that it is easier to work with such tiles, then the choice of size becomes obvious.

When choosing, pay attention to the line between the front and end sides. Tiles without curves will provide a narrower and stricter seam.

The amount of ceramic tiles is calculated taking into account the fact that there will be no tiles under the bathroom itself. The bathtub itself is covered with a screen, and hiding behind it is expensive finishing material– a thoughtless waste of money! But the tiles should still extend 15-20 cm under the bathtub. And so that there is no gap where there are no tiles, after laying the flooring this space is filled with the remains of a self-leveling screed.

Required materials and tools

To lay tiles in the bathroom you will need:

Tile;
Tile adhesive;
Notched trowel;
Master OK;
Laser level;
Construction corner;
Crosses;
Tile cutter (or grinder with cutting disc).

When choosing tile adhesive, follow the recommendations of the tile manufacturer. If there is none, then purchase cement-based adhesive, for example “Universal” if the size of your tile is less than 25 x 25 cm, or “Reinforced” if larger. Bathroom tile adhesive has no water resistance of great importance. After all, puddles do not form in this room. Tile based adhesives epoxy resins, or variances ( Bustilat), it is not advisable to use when working with floor tiles.

It is better to purchase crosses that are not too wide, maximum 2-3 mm. But keep in mind that to work with crosses of this size, the tiles must be of high quality. That is, the curvature of the edges or surfaces is not acceptable.

When fitting the edge tiles, you will need a tile cutter. But you can also cut tiles with a grinder. We recommend purchasing cutting disc, with radial slots.

Laying tiles on the floor - instructions

Laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands begins with marking the room. In this case, the starting point for installation is the most visible corner of the room. It is most convenient to lay the tiles along long wall, this will allow you to control the longest seams.

At opposite ends of the long wall, make an indent equal to the size of the tile, and mark it with a pencil. Installed on one side laser level, and is oriented so that the projection of a vertical beam connects the two marks. The border of the first row of tiles will run along this line.

The surface of the screed is primed. The choice of primer is determined by the tile adhesive manufacturer. Drying time usually does not exceed one hour.

Tile adhesive is diluted according to the instructions. Typically, 1 kg of mixture requires 220-250 ml of water. Large volume It should not be diluted, it sets quickly enough, and it is better to work in portions of 1.5 - 2 kg.

Apply adhesive to the tile with a trowel and level it over the entire surface using a notched trowel. The adhesive layer should not exceed the thickness of the tile! Typically, they try to keep the glue thickness at 4-5 mm.

The first tile is placed in the corner of the room with a slight offset. Just move it from side to side, with an amplitude of 5-10 mm. This way, better distribution of the glue is achieved.

IMPORTANT: make sure that there are no voids along the edges of the tiles. The tile adhesive should extend slightly beyond the boundaries of each tile.

Each glued tile must be checked for horizontal fit. To do this, a construction square is placed at each corner, and the marks of the horizontal beam of the laser level are compared. Depending on the results, the tiles are leveled.

The next tile is glued in the same way, but crosses are inserted between each element. In this case, the crosses are installed until they are level with the horizon.

The last element of each row will require adjustment. First, measure the distance between the extreme tile and the wall, subtract the thickness of the cross from it and mark the desired parameter on the tile. Mark and cut, preferably from the front side.

IMPORTANT: cutting tiles with back side, may cause the glaze to chip.

When cutting with a grinder, be sure to use safety glasses. The tiles are fixed to the board using self-tapping screws. The resulting element is laid with the cut side facing the wall.

Subsequent rows are laid out according to the same pattern, but the laser level is first moved to a new position. The last row should go under the bathtub. The depth is determined based on the situation, but at least 15 cm. In this way, work on laying tiles takes place in any room.

Time to gain strength tile adhesive indicated on the packaging. After this, the space under the bathroom left without tiles must be filled with the remains of the self-leveling screed. And after a day, it is imperative to treat the surface twice with a primer. deep penetration. The level of the screed must be kept flush with the level of the tiles. This procedure ensures that water does not accumulate under the bathtub.

Grouting joints

To work you will need:

Rubber spatula;
Microfiber sponge;
Construction knife;
Grout mixture;
Drill with attachment;
Capacity.

The grout can be given any color using tint. But there is a rule: white grout is suitable for tiles of any color. And for the first time, try to follow this advice.

Grout mixture consumption is a specific concept. It depends on the depth and width of the joint, as well as the size of the tile. All formulas give very approximate data. Based on the calculation of 0.8 kg/m2. If the seam does not exceed 5 mm in width and depth, and the tile is no more than 25 cm, then more than enough is enough.

Before work, prepare the seams. To do this, remove all the crosses using construction knife. And the cracks themselves are thoroughly cleaned. You can use a vacuum cleaner.

The grout mixture should be diluted strictly according to the manufacturer's instructions. The consistency required is that of toothpaste.

Ready solution in small portions rub into the seam around one or two tiles. At the same time, try to perform rubbing movements in one direction. For example, fill all longitudinal seams with a movement to the right, and all transverse seams with a movement toward you. The grout mixture should fill the gaps between the tiles flush!

After filling the grout around the first two tiles, take a sponge and carefully remove any excess that has gotten onto the tile. Wet grout is easily removed; if you miss this moment, its removal can result in damage to the tile.

According to the described scheme, fill the seams of the next 2-3 tiles and immediately remove the excess. Try not to increase the volume of grouted seams in one go. Maximum 2-3 tiles.

This stage of work is not difficult. But accuracy is the basis of success.

After grouting all the seams, give it time to set. It is usually indicated on the packaging. It will not be amiss if, after exposure, you treat all the seams with white silicone paint. It qualitatively seals the grout mixture and protects it from contact with household chemicals.