How to fix drywall on a ceiling without a profile. How to install a plasterboard ceiling alone
Drywall is used in repair work of various volumes and purposes, and this is the case when two birds with one stone are killed at once. That is, the practicality and cost-effectiveness of the design, all this is ensured by plasterboard. But maybe you don’t know how to work with it, and what methods there are for installing drywall to the ceiling.
The composition of a plasterboard board includes gypsum filler, which contains various binding additives, and layers of cardboard for facing purposes. The weight of one sheet will be from 12 to 35 kg, it depends on the thickness of the material. There is six-millimeter plasterboard, nine-millimeter plasterboard, and twelve and a half mm thick plasterboard.
Why is plasterboard sheet so popular in repairs:
- If you fix it on the ceiling surface, it will become perfectly flat;
- Communication systems can be hidden under plasterboard - such installation is not possible in all cases, but plasterboard does an excellent job of this;
- It provides sound insulation and thermal insulation;
- It can be mounted on the ceiling different rooms, there is classic drywall, moisture-resistant, fire-resistant, universal;
- Laying it down is not difficult, assembling the frame is also quite a feasible undertaking for non-professionals.
Finally, it is drywall that will allow you to realize complex design projects. It can be cut, it will correctly take the given shape. That is, with it you can really build the ceiling of your dreams.
How to attach drywall to a wood ceiling
Drywall to wooden surface can be attached in three ways: with adhesive, with wooden slats, or with a metal frame. The adhesive method is not possible in all cases - the surface to be glued must be perfectly flat. Gypsum mastic is used as an adhesive mass (it combines bone glue and crumbs gypsum stone). The mixture is applied starting from the edges of the sheet, in small cakes 30 cm apart, and gradually moving towards the center. Well, after that the plate is pressed onto the finished surface.
The second method is a slatted wooden frame. It is used in the construction of single-level surfaces. When installing it, you will need a well-dried timber, otherwise the supporting elements will very soon become covered with mold.
The main beam is placed along the entire plane of the ceiling, the interval is 80 cm. Then, relative to it, at an angle of 90 degrees, load-bearing partitions are attached at a distance of half a meter from each other. They will then become the holding base for the drywall.
When the installation of the frame is completed, the slabs can be directly attached. Self-tapping screws are screwed in around the perimeter of the sheet in increments of 15 cm, and precisely in a checkerboard pattern. In this case, the head of the rod should sink slightly into the material. Then these places will be puttied, and the entire surface will be smooth.
What fasteners are used for drywall to the ceiling?
The third method of fastening is metal carcass. It is used not only for fixing gypsum boards on wooden ceiling, but also on a standard concrete ceiling. The technology is essentially the same as in the case of a wooden frame, but there are some nuances.
Guide profiles must be attached at intervals of 40 cm, and this is done so that one standard plate 120 cm long, mounted on four metal slats. When the guide bases are equipped, you need to fix the hangers. These devices are attached to the ceiling with dowel nails at a distance of 40 cm from one another. After this, the supporting profile is fixed, its ends should be strictly on the guide rail at an angle of 90 degrees, and its body should be in hangers.
All frame elements are fastened to each other with special metal screws. When installation work is carried out, the horizontality of the profiles is always checked with a level, and places of possible load are reinforced with jumpers or anchors.
Diagram: how to screw drywall to the ceiling with your own hands
Typically, you need to use two pairs of hands to lay drywall on the ceiling. Working together is both convenient and fast, and there is no such burden that a person experiences alone. But it happens that you have to do everything yourself. In this case you need special devices- usually this is a platform and supports.
This situation involves the construction of a small structure from hinges, a pair of boards, and supports. And when opened, the retractable platform is six centimeters high below the ceiling level. This gap also includes the width of the plasterboard sheet along with the structure.
The slab is raised in several stages: first place the first support at hand height, then the main one. Then climb onto the scaffolding prepared in advance and begin attaching plasterboard sheets to the frame.
How to fix drywall to the ceiling (video)
It is worth noting that although such work is difficult, do not simplify it with the adhesive fastening method. If there are unevenness on the base ceiling, they will be noticeable under the plasterboard. Because frame method fastenings are the most reliable, and a metal frame is more suitable for this.
Great results!
May 30, 2017Specialization: facade finishing, interior decoration, construction of cottages, garages. Experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. We also have experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and many other things that I don’t have time for :)
How to install drywall on the ceiling? I used to often ask myself this question, but now, having some experience, I will tell you how to assemble a frame and correctly attach plasterboard to the ceiling on a profile. I am sure that this information will help beginners cope with this work on their own.
Installation of gypsum boards on profiles
The process of installing drywall (gypsum board) on the ceiling can be divided into several main stages:
Performing markup
Before attaching drywall to the ceiling, you must make markings. This determines how smooth and high-quality the ceiling will be.
The marking process looks like this:
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Level designation:
It's even easier to mark a line using a water level. Use it to move the mark to the corners of the room, then connect the dots with a paint cord. |
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Marking for profiles. Draw lines across the entire ceiling in 600 mm increments, 250 mm from the wall. Keep in mind that the lines must be across the sheets, i.e. you need to decide in advance how you will place the gypsum board on the frame. |
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Marking for hangers. Mark lines on the ceiling perpendicular to the existing ones in increments of 0.5 m. Draw the first line at a distance of 0.25 m from the wall. |
At this point, the marking process is completed, and you can begin assembling the frame.
Frame assembly
Since the gypsum boards are attached to the ceiling using a frame, it is extremely important to assemble it correctly. Therefore, it is necessary to approach this operation no less responsibly than applying markings.
Instructions for marking are as follows:
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Materials:
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Installation of UD guides. Along the perimeter of the room, guides need to be attached to the walls, aligning them to the intended level. For these purposes, use dowel nails. If the walls are wooden, you can use self-tapping screws. |
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Installation of hangers. Secure straight hangers using dowel nails. During the installation process, make sure that they are positioned strictly according to the markings. |
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Installation of CD profile. The CD installation process is generally quite simple. However, keep in mind that the profiles sag, especially if the room area is large. Therefore, the work should be done like this:
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Jumper installation:
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If the base is fairly level, install the gypsum boards on wooden slats. The latter can be attached to the ceiling using dowel nails.
GKL fastening
So, we have figured out the installation of the frame, now we will look at how to properly attach drywall to the ceiling. To avoid a number of problems after covering the frame, the following rules must be observed:
- The gypsum board must be positioned correctly. Cut the sheets so that they do not form cross-shaped seams on the frame;
- The edges of the sheets should be on the profile.“Hanging” edges of gypsum boards will lead to the formation of cracks;
- The screws must be positioned correctly relative to the edge of the sheet and relative to each other. The distance from the edge of the sheet to the screw should be 1 cm, optimal step between screws – 25 cm;
- Drive screws correctly. Mounting for plasterboard on the ceiling, i.e. The screw should be deepened by about a millimeter. If the cap sticks out above the surface of the ceiling, it will not allow you to perform the putty properly.
If you deepen the screw too much, the head may break through the cardboard, and the material will not be fixed at all.
When finishing a bathroom or kitchen, sheets marked GKLV should be used. Their price is higher than the cost regular drywall, but they are resistant to moisture.
Before attaching drywall to the ceiling, you will probably need to cut the sheets. The work is done like this:
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Cutting cardboard from one side:
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Bending the sheet. Break the sheet along the fold line, as shown in the photo. |
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Cutting the cardboard from the second side. Cut the cardboard along the fold line. |
After cutting the sheets, you can attach the plasterboard to the ceiling. The work itself is quite simple - you need to attach the sheet to the frame and secure it with self-tapping screws, following the rules that we discussed above. The only thing, keep in mind that the sheets are quite heavy, so it is more convenient to do the work together.
If you are going to work with your own hands without helpers, you can make special devices in the form of mops. The length of such a mop should slightly exceed the height of the room. This will allow you to place the sheet on the mop and support the frame with it.
Gluing
In cases where the base is flat, you can do without a frame by gluing drywall to the surface liquid nails. This solution allows you to significantly reduce finishing time and costs.
The process of gluing drywall looks like this:
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Preparing the base. Preparation involves removing the topcoat, if any. This could be wallpaper or, for example, water-based paint. If the base is in poor condition - the plaster is peeling off or the paint is difficult to remove, then it is more advisable to abandon gluing and attach it to the frame. |
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Padding. Prime the base with a universal primer or deep penetration primer. |
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Gluing drywall:
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Gypsum plasterboard sheets (GKL) are very convenient and profitable facing material, giving an unsurpassed result among the price-quality ratio building materials. Most often, the ceiling is made of plasterboard, and if you do not know how to attach drywall to the ceiling correctly, then this page is at your service.
In addition, here is a video on this topic that will help you clearly understand the intricacies of installation.
Installation of plasterboard ceilings
Ceiling markings
Ceiling markings
Installation of a metal frame
- Along the line marked around the perimeter, screw the UD profile so that its lower part exactly coincides with the line.
For fastening, it is best to use a plastic dummy dowel with a diameter of 6 mm and a screw with a diameter of 4-5 mm. The length of the screw and dowel will depend on the density of the wall.
- Attach U-shaped hangers along the lines marked on the ceiling. To attach the pawn, it is better to use internal holes rather than ears, since the suspension attached to the ears will be pulled back a couple of millimeters under the weight of the gypsum board, and this will disrupt the level of the plane.
The diameter of the dowels and screws needed is the same as for the wall.
Advice. IN concrete floors there are voids and in order to prevent the dowel from falling into them, you need to use flared dowels or, if there are none, impact dowels.
But the factory impact dowel-screw ratio is too weak, so the screw should be replaced with a thicker one.
- Now cut the CD profiles to the required length and insert them into the UD profiles installed around the perimeter.
Cut the profile 5 mm shorter than the absolute distance between the walls, and it will fit freely. - In order to level the CD profiles, you need to stretch a thread under them, and in order to prevent these same profiles from pulling the thread, bend each middle suspension under the profile, pulling it above the level of the plane.
- Stretch the nylon thread from wall to wall, across the CD profiles, securing it to the UD profiles with small self-tapping screws.
- You align each profile along a stretched thread, fastening it to the hangers with small self-tapping screws for plasterboard profiles.
You fasten the CD profile to the UD profile in the same way. Bend the protruding ends of the hangers to the sides. - Disconnect all the electrical wires needed for lighting and hide them in a corrugated cable channel. Next, we will look at how to attach drywall to the ceiling, or more precisely, to a metal frame.
Installation of plasterboard sheets
Advice. Since you need to attach drywall without tearing through the paper on the sheet, use a drywall attachment for this.
It is equipped with a special lampshade, which, when tightened, rests against the sheet, controlling the depth of recessing of the cap.
- Do not forget to route wires through the plasterboard for lighting in the right places. If, when installing drywall, some sheets did not meet by a few millimeters, do not be upset - these cracks will be filled with putty or fugenfüller.
- We looked at how to attach drywall, and now we need to prepare it for putty. To do this, all screws that are screwed in are sealed with putty.
- The seams between the plasterboard sheets can be glued with adhesive mesh tape and then puttied (see).
You can also seal these seams with fugenfüller, which is also a putty, but when hardened it has great hardness and strength. - After the sealed seams and screws have dried, you can begin to putty the drywall.
Conclusion
We looked at some of the nuances of such arrangement as plasterboard on the ceiling - how to attach it correctly and how to prepare it for finishing. For installation of more complex multi-level and figured ceilings, you need to learn how to make even, single-level, living room, bedroom, understanding the structure of which will allow you to go further and assemble more complex structures.
Among finishing materials for the ceiling, plasterboard is considered the most profitable, if you take into account its cost and characteristics. The simplest in terms of implementation is single-level suspended structure, which is shown in the photo. Having understood the technology of creating a frame and how plasterboard is attached to the ceiling, you can on our own make renovations at home.
There are different ways to attach drywall to the ceiling: directly to the base floor, to a metal frame, to wooden slats. And for each of these cases there are specific requirements for fastenings and materials used.
The procedure for attaching plasterboard ceilings
Suppose you need to perform installation plasterboard construction as close as possible to the base floor, since it is necessary to maintain the height of the room as much as possible. Installation will be carried out on a metal frame.
First stage - marking. The installation of plasterboard ceilings begins with markings. On the base ceiling you need to find the most low point and move it to one of the walls in a randomly selected corner of the room. The distance from this point to the lowest part on the frame should not exceed 25 millimeters (profile thickness). Stepping back approximately 30 millimeters from the bottom point of the ceiling, a mark is made, which is transferred to all corners using a building level. Thus, there will be two marks in each corner (one on each wall).
Then, using chockline or blue thread, markings are made around the perimeter of the room. To do this, a thread is pulled between two marks, it is pulled back and suddenly released. As a result of impact with the surface, the chockline leaves a control line. According to it, fastening will be carried out suspended ceiling made of plasterboard, it means the lower level of the frame.
Next you need to decide on the direction of installation. plasterboard boards- according to it, it is necessary to mark two opposite walls every 50 centimeters. Lines are drawn between the applied marks using a chokeline - they are a guideline along which the suspensions will be attached.
Fastening the frame
Second phase - creation of metal. Along the line marked along the perimeter, screw the UD profile so that the lower part of the bar coincides with it.
For fastening, it is advisable to use 6 mm plastic dummy dowels and screws with a diameter of no more than 4 -5 mm. For screws and dowels, the length must be selected based on the density of the material of the walls of a particular room.
After this, the CD profiles are cut into pieces of the required length and inserted into the UD profiles mounted around the perimeter. To level CD profiles, a strong nylon thread is pulled under them. It is secured from wall to wall perpendicular to the CD profiles with small self-tapping screws on the UD profiles.
Each profile is aligned along a stretched thread and fastened to hangers with self-tapping screws designed for plasterboard profiles. In the same way, the CD profile and the UD profile are connected to each other, and the ends of the hangers sticking out to the sides are bent to the sides. When the frame for plasterboard is created, the ceiling is almost ready for installation finishing slabs. It is also necessary to make electrical wiring for installation lighting fixtures and lay the wires in a special corrugated cable channel.
Third stage – installation of plasterboard boards. Each sheet has considerable weight (about 15 kilograms) and therefore it is advisable to carry out the work of installing gypsum boards with an assistant. It should be noted that two plasterboard sheets will need to be attached to the outermost section of the CD profile, so the edge of each of them should be located on half of the profile.
Fastening stretch ceiling to the ceiling: installation system "). In this case, attaching a stretch ceiling to plasterboard is a difficult task that only professionals can handle (read: " ").
Finishing ceilings with plasterboard - affordable way obtaining a flat and smooth ceiling surface. In this case, you will not have to waste time and money on preliminary leveling of the base; the sheets will reliably hide floor defects. For the work to be successful, you need to know how to attach drywall to the ceiling, and what methods exist for this.
Why drywall
Plasterboard ceilings have long been widespread in interior decoration due to the following advantages:
- used to create even and smooth surfaces;
- mask wiring and communications;
- have heat and sound insulation;
- suitable for finishing any room, regardless of operating conditions and humidity level. The main thing is to choose the appropriate gypsum board marking;
- are mounted different ways– on a frame base or special binders;
- with the help of drywall you can implement even the most complex design projects– multi-tiered structures, niches, arches, bends, any shapes, etc.
The chosen method of attaching the material depends on what function the plasterboard structure will perform:
- frame made of metal profile— reliably masks utility lines, ventilation, and wiring under the ceiling. Correct assembly frame consists of several stages: applying markings, installing guides and ceiling profiles, suspensions. The advantage is the ability to construct complex multi-level structures, the disadvantage is the loss of height in the room;
- frame made of wooden slats. Installation is carried out by analogy with the construction of a metal frame base. Wooden structure will take less height from the room, but it is also less resistant to adverse factors;
- using a frameless method, gypsum plasterboard sheets are attached directly to the ceiling. This does not reduce the height of the room, but the preparation of the base ceiling must be carried out carefully.
All three methods have advantages and disadvantages. When deciding on the method of fastening gypsum boards, take into account the purpose of the room and the climatic conditions of the room. For example, in a bathroom it is better to install a metal frame base, since high humidity negatively affects the tree. The same applies to adhesive compositions used for fastening sheets.
Attaching plasterboard to the ceiling without a frame requires careful preparation of the rough surface:
- remove the previous finish;
- prime the ceiling, then level it with putty;
- After the composition has hardened, the surface is again covered with a layer of primer.
If there are unevenness and differences in the ceiling, do not install metal or wooden frame not enough.
You cannot attach gypsum boards to the ceiling using glue if:
- the ceiling is made of wood. Natural material will quickly lose its shape under the influence of moisture or sudden temperature fluctuations;
- the surface is wet or painted with oil paint.
On concrete ceilings GKL sheets are glued only after making notches on the surface.
Fastening gypsum boards without preliminary construction of a frame is possible using special adhesive materials. For example, Perfix glue. The work is carried out in the following order:
- the composition, whose consistency resembles thick sour cream, is applied to a sheet of drywall using a spatula;
- apply the gypsum board to the ceiling and press it. To provide reliable fastening, the sheet is additionally fixed with self-tapping screws. Drywall is laid in a checkerboard pattern;
- The evenness of the material is checked building level. To correct defects, use a hammer with a rubberized base, which is used to tap the sheets along the edges and in the middle;
For finishing use any gypsum board. If you are covering ceilings in a bathroom or kitchen, choose plasterboard marked moisture-resistant.
Instead of professional glue, homemade gypsum mastic is used, which is prepared as follows:
- 0.5 kg of dry bone glue is poured into 3 liters cold water, leave to swell for 10-12 hours;
- when the glue swells, add 1 kg of lime dough, mix the mass until the lumps are completely dissolved;
- simmer the mixture over low heat for 5-6 hours, stirring constantly;
- add 10 liters of water to the mass, stir the glue again with a construction mixer.
The result is a reliable composition that is capable of gluing plasterboard to any surface. Glue is applied to the sheets along the edges and in the middle, and stripes are applied at intervals of 40 cm from each other. The material is fastened, aligned along the corner, then gradually moved along the entire ceiling surface.
As a result of attaching plasterboard to the ceiling on polyurethane foam the surface will become smooth, and the space of the room will be preserved. Installation of sheets is carried out as follows:
- the sheet is applied to the ceiling surface, and holes for dowels are drilled through the drywall every 50 cm;
- on the back side of the sheet, 10 cm from the holes, glue pieces of foam rubber, which will act as a kind of level and regulate the evenness of the skin;
- spacer parts of dowels are inserted into the ceiling holes;
- the sheets are again applied to the ceiling, secured with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into dowels. Washers are installed under the heads of the self-tapping screws;
- The level sets the position of the drywall. Thanks to the foam pads between the sheets and ceiling surface gaps form;
- holes with a diameter of 6 mm are drilled next to each self-tapping screw, into which mounting foam is pumped;
- using self-tapping screws and a hammer with a rubberized tip, level the general plane;
- after 24 hours, unscrew the screws, remove the washers, then screw the fasteners back into the gypsum board sheets. This way the design will be reliable.
To begin with, it is better to practice on one sheet of plasterboard, leave it for 24 hours, then check the quality of the work done. If everything is in order, you can cover the entire ceiling in this way. The drywall should be held firmly and not wobble from side to side. If there are defects, it is necessary to determine the reason for their occurrence.
Possible factors include:
- the sheet is swollen because a lot of foam was pumped in;
- movement - screws and dowels are not sufficiently fastened to the ceiling;
- low quality foam;
- the sheet has fallen off - this covering option is not suitable for a particular surface, it is better to choose a different installation method plasterboard sheets.
You don’t have to make foam pads, but immediately apply polyurethane foam to the gypsum board sheet. Then you will be able to control the uniformity of the distribution of the composition. The foam is applied to the back side of the drywall in “snakes” in uniform stripes. After 10-15 minutes, when the composition begins to expand, the sheet is applied to the ceiling and fixed with self-tapping screws.
The ceiling surface must be flat. Otherwise, in those places where the distance from the base ceiling to the gypsum board sheet is smaller, the glue will exert more pressure, and vice versa. As a result, the adhesive strength will be uneven.
The advantage of this method of installing drywall is that you do not need to carefully prepare the base for work. It is enough to delete old finishing and prime the ceiling.
Work on arranging the frame begins with installation load-bearing structure of two types of profile and suspension system. But first, markings are applied, on which the evenness of the future ceiling depends, in the following order:
- determined by the number and types of lighting fixtures that will be installed in the decorative ceiling. If there are no built-in lamps, the frame is placed as close as possible to the base base;
- in the room, by measuring, they find the lower corner, step back from it down to the required distance, and put a mark;
- project the point onto other angles using a laser level;
- The resulting marks are connected to each other with an upholstery cord in a straight line outlining the perimeter of the room. A mismatch between the lines will cause the structure to skew;
- then on the ceiling, axes are marked for attaching the ceiling profile in increments of 60 cm. From the wall to the first line, 30 cm are retreated;
- along the drawn lines, dots are placed at the places where the suspensions are attached, also every 60 cm;
- Transverse lines are drawn at the same distance from each other to secure the profile.
As a result of marking on the ceiling surface, a pattern consisting of squares with equal sides is obtained.
You need to screw the UD guide profile to the line drawn along the perimeter of the room so that the lower part of the plank coincides with the horizontal. WITH reverse side profiles are placed sealing tape. For fastening, plastic dummy dowels with a diameter of 60 mm and self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4-5 mm are used.
Next, hangers are mounted along the lines to the ceiling. It is better to fasten the elements to the internal holes, and not to the “ears”, since due to the weight of the plasterboard sheets, the suspension attached to the “ears” can be pulled back by several millimeters, which will disrupt the evenness of the structure. Self-tapping screws and dowels are chosen of the same diameter as for fastening the guide profiles.
On a note! IN ceilings from concrete slabs there are voids. To prevent fasteners from falling into voids, it is necessary to use special flared or impact dowels for attaching hangers, and choose stronger screws.
The CD is cut to the required length, and the edges are inserted into guide strips screwed around the perimeter. To ensure that the profile fits freely between the walls, it is made 1 cm shorter than the distance from wall to wall. This leaves 5mm of free space on each edge. Under the ceiling, the ceiling profile is inserted into the hangers, but not twisted.
The next step is to check the evenness of the structure using a nylon thread stretched under the frame. Adjust the height of the future decorative ceiling suspensions. Each CD profile is leveled, screwed to the hangers with metal screws, and the protruding ends of the hangers are bent to the sides. In the same way ceiling profiles fastened to the guides.
On final stage When arranging the frame, wires are brought to the installation sites of the devices, a few centimeters of cable are left free for connection to the lamps, the remaining ones are laid in protective corrugations, which are attached to the ceiling.
The frame was mounted in such a way that the edges of two adjacent sheets of drywall fell on one CD strip. Therefore, the first sheet is not attached to the wall on a guide profile, but at a distance of 30 cm - on the ceiling. The remaining space is sheathed with cut to required sizes pieces of gypsum board at the end of facing work.
Before installation, the drywall is brought into the room, laid in a horizontal position on a flat surface so that the material takes on its characteristic shape and gets used to the climatic conditions of the room.
Then the material is cut out. First, an incision is made on the surface of the sheet on the reverse side. stationery knife, then turn it over to the other side and break it.
The edges of the sheets are chamfered using a plane, maintaining an inclination angle of 45° if the seams will be sealed using sickle tape. If the tape is not used, the angle of inclination is 22.5°. The edges are cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper.
Holes for lighting fixtures are cut before attaching the sheets to the frame. To do this, use a special cutter and drill.
Drywall is fastened in a checkerboard pattern using metal screws. The fasteners are screwed in increments of 25 cm, the caps are deepened into the material by 3-5 mm. The gypsum board should fit as tightly as possible to the frame base. As soon as the sheathing is completed, the wires are brought out under the lamps.
On a note! In order not to damage the drywall and avoid breaking through the paper, use special attachments for gypsum boards. They are equipped with lampshades, which, when tightening the screws, rest against the sheets and regulate the depth of recessing of the fastener head.
The sequence of work is as follows:
- seams and recesses from screw heads are primed with a deep penetration compound;
- the putty is diluted according to the instructions indicated on the package;
- Using a narrow spatula, the composition is applied to the joints of adjacent sheets. When the mixture has set a little, sealing tape is applied to the seams;
- Apply another layer of putty mixture on top of the tape and immediately fill in the recesses from the screw heads;
- in 12 hours thin layer putties cover the entire surface decorative design and leave to harden completely for 24 hours;
- At the end of the designated time, the ceiling is cleaned with a construction float and a layer of primer is applied.
If you have to work independently without the help of assistants, you can cut the sheets of drywall into pieces small sizes. But this method is suitable for small rooms. In spacious rooms it is better to mount whole sheets of material. For this purpose they use following methods that will help you cope with the work alone and raise the sheet to the ceiling:
- from wooden beams and poles, two supports are constructed that will hold the gypsum board sheet under the ceiling. In this case, the length of the pole is 8-10 cm greater than the distance from the floor to the ceiling.
The device is placed with the transverse crossbar up so that there is free space between the beam and the ceiling surface for the gypsum board sheet to fit in. Drywall is inserted into it at one edge. Using the second device, the sheet is gradually raised to the ceiling and supported;
- a frame is knocked together from wooden beams, the length is slightly less than the length of the room. Hinges under the doors are screwed to one edge. The hinges are attached under the metal frame. The result is that one end of the homemade frame will be under the ceiling, and the other on the floor. The sheet is laid on the frame and lifted to the frame, fixing the device on the other side with a support. Next, attach the drywall with self-tapping screws to the frame base;
- a device is constructed from thick bars and a sheet of thick plywood or MDF panels, appearance resembling an ironing board. By moving the legs, you can adjust the height of the structure. The sheet is laid on a wide base and raised to the ceiling surface.
You can spend money and purchase a special mobile platform on wheels. But such a device is best used in very large rooms, and for one-time work it is not advisable to buy it.
How much does it cost to install plasterboard ceilings?
The cost of constructing a plasterboard structure depends on several factors:
- complexity of the work (number of levels, presence of decorative projections or niches, arches, etc.);
- number of lighting devices;
- number of layers of cladding.
Average cost of installing a single-level plasterboard ceiling it will cost the customer approximately 500-600 rubles per 1 m², two-level design simple shapes - 700-800 rubles per 1 m², complex curved shapes will cost about 800-100 rubles per 1 m².
Despite the fact that the adhesive installation method is quick and cheap, it is better to spend time and money by installing a metal frame under the drywall. This design is more reliable, which significantly affects the service life of the decorative ceiling.
Plasterboard ceiling, installation sequence, video instructions