Frame houses wall insulation with mineral wool. Insulation of a frame house with mineral wool: scheme and technology features

Warming the walls of a frame house is an important stage of construction, which should not be neglected.

It is worth approaching this process seriously and responsibly, because frame houses are in no way inferior to concrete or brick ones in reliability and durability, and in most cases they even win.

If you want living in a home to be a real holiday for you: warm and comfortable in winter, fresh and cozy in summer, then everything is in your hands.

Let's figure out how to properly insulate the walls of a frame house with your own hands.

Information about the most popular heaters

Today, a considerable number of heaters are known that are used in the construction of frame houses. Each has characteristic properties, its pros and cons.

When choosing a heater, you should pay attention to the following parameters:

  • low level of thermal conductivity;
  • fire resistance;
  • health safety;
  • convenience during the installation process;
  • no tendency to deformation;
  • long service life;
  • value for money.

Today, in the process of building a dwelling, foam plastic and mineral and basalt wool are the most popular materials for wall insulation.

The article is devoted to the features of these types of heaters, their advantages, disadvantages and nuances of the installation process.

Mineral wool is a popular high-quality insulation material. Mats or rolls are used for insulation.

They are easy to install, lightweight, durable, have excellent sound insulation and low thermal conductivity.

The disadvantages of the insulating material include non-environmental friendliness (the content of a small dose of substances harmful to health) and the inability to withstand the action of moisture (leads to a loss of thermal insulation properties).

Basically, mineral wool is used during external insulation. One of the types of mineral wool is basalt wool.

The material has a number of positive properties:

  • low thermal conductivity;
  • health safety;
  • resistance to various environmental influences;
  • fire resistance;
  • strength;
  • long service life.

The disadvantage of warming with basalt wool is the cost of the material. But a large number of advantages of insulation covers this minus.

Styrofoam has recently been rapidly becoming a leader among frame house heaters.

First of all, due to its low price. In addition, the material is easy to use, light, harmless to health.

But at the same time, the foam has significant drawbacks:

  • highly flammable and releases toxic fumes when ignited;
  • very fragile, can be easily damaged during operation;
  • material can significantly spoil the rodents.

Although many experts argue that rats and mice do not eat foam, but justify their homes there.

They say that modern foam is produced with the addition of flame retardant additives.

It's time to get acquainted with the technology of wall insulation using each of the materials mentioned.

Insulation of the walls of the frame house with cotton wool

Warming the walls of a frame house with mineral wool is a laborious but effective process.

The main thing is that the walls are observed correctly. Initially, we consider the insulation of the outer walls of a frame house with our own hands.

At the initial stage of work, the wall frame is sheathed on the outside with slabs (chipboard) in such a way that there are gaps between them, which can be foamed at the end of the work.

Then, insulation is laid in layers between the racks of the frame.

To prevent the formation of bridges of voids and a bridge of cold, mineral wool should be taken with a good density and each layer should be laid slightly offset.

The amount of insulation varies depending on the climatic zone of the dwelling.

At the next stage, you need to fill all the voids with mounting foam. After that, it is necessary to cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film, and fill the crate on it.

Now let's talk about the insulation of internal walls with our own hands.

Often this procedure is carried out for soundproofing walls. It is advisable to use a special sound-absorbing material, but mineral wool is also suitable.

It should be noted that protective membranes are not required for this process. The remaining stages of insulation of external and internal walls are the same.

Anyone who has at least the slightest building skills can insulate the walls of a frame house with basalt wool. But at the same time, the process requires serious responsibility and concentration.

Before insulating the outer walls in a frame house, cracks should be repaired. For this, mounting foam, tow, etc. are useful.

It is necessary to lay a vapor barrier layer (foil, polyethylene film, parchment paper) with ventilation. The film will protect the insulation from moisture, ventilation will contribute to the passage of air.

The warming process consists of the following steps:

  1. Mounting and fastening of a metal cornice in order to facilitate the process of laying insulating material and as a protection against mice and rats;
  2. Sticking a basalt slab on the wall. To begin with, large wall sections are filled with heat-insulating plates, then smaller sections;
  3. Alignment of the wall surface.

As for the insulation of internal walls, here the material also performs a soundproof function. The technology is identical to the scheme of insulation of external walls.

So, the processes of insulating walls with mineral and basalt wool with their own hands are similar.

They require certain building knowledge and skills, diligence and faith in their potential. It is necessary to take into account all the subtleties of insulation technology.

Working with foam

You are already familiar with the positive and negative sides of foam as a heater.

Now consider how to insulate the outer walls of a frame house with foam. In the process of insulating walls with your own hands, a temperature above zero must be observed.

At the initial stage, you should prepare the frame (get rid of unnecessary items; treat the surface with antiseptic agents in order to protect the home from fire, level it (air should not get into the cracks), fill the gaps, if possible, with frost-resistant foam (for installation); treat the surface primer, let dry).

The next step is the application of a waterproofing layer (foil, polyethylene film, parchment paper), which acts as a protection of the walls from wind and moisture, is applied from the outside.

There is an opinion that the foam does not absorb moisture at all, and a waterproofing layer is not needed.

But at low temperatures, moisture can destroy the insulation. So laying this layer is a necessary step in warming. The protective film is glued with tape or special tape.

For high-quality insulation of a frame house, experts recommend laying three layers of insulation on top of each other, while not forgetting to treat the joints with frost-resistant foam.

Be sure to correctly position the plates so that they do not deform under the influence of temperatures, negatively affecting the skin.

The walls from the inside are wrapped with a vapor barrier film so that condensation does not form on the insulation.

Penofol, various vapor barrier membranes are used as protection.

The outer skin can be made on a waterproofing layer. Here you can do without ventilation.

The insulation of the walls of a frame house with polystyrene foam inside the building is similar to the insulation of the outer walls.

So which insulation to choose for your frame home? Let's summarize.

Insulation of a frame house with mineral wool is one of the most common types of insulation used in frame housing construction.

In frame housing construction, thermal insulation of internal premises is carried out by laying thermal insulation in the internal space of the frame. Different types of frame houses manufactured using different technologies (Canadian, American German and others) use different types of insulation, but the main properties that this material should have can be formulated as follows:

  1. Low thermal conductivity - the ability to retain heat. This indicator is characterized by the coefficient of thermal conductivity, the lower it is, the smaller the thickness of the insulation layer is required to create a normal temperature regime inside the premises.
  2. Vapor permeability - the ability to pass air. This ability of the material allows the construction of the house to "breathe", creating an optimal microclimate inside the premises.
  3. Light weight. The weight of the insulation is characterized by its specific values, the lower the weight, the less load will be placed on building structures (the foundation and frame of the house).
  4. Fire safety is an important indicator, because. the life of the people living in the house depends on it.

This indicator is characterized by such criteria as:

  • The degree of flammability;
  • Attitude to exposure to open flame;
  • The ability to release harmful substances during combustion.
  1. Environmental friendliness is one of the important indicators in the modern world.
  2. Hygroscopicity is the ability to absorb moisture. To insulate a frame house, it is better to use materials that do not absorb moisture. If such an effect is present, then so that it does not affect other properties of the material used (thermal conductivity, vapor permeability, etc.).
  3. Antiseptic - the ability not to decompose and rot, as well as to resist the formation of microorganisms inside the insulation.
  4. Strength - in the context of use for home insulation, this indicator characterizes the degree of shrinkage of the insulation during operation.
  5. Cost - the ratio of price and quality, as well as the presence of the above properties, is a priority indicator when choosing a specific insulation for a frame house.

Most often, as a heater in frame housing construction, foam plastic, polyurethane foam and mineral wool are used.

Mineral wool, its properties and main characteristics


Mineral wool is a heat-insulating material that is made on the basis of molten glass (glass wool), melted rocks (stone wool) and blast-furnace slag (slag wool).

Due to the fact that slag wool does not meet the requirements for environmental friendliness, and glass wool is difficult to perform work with its use, stone wool based on basalt has become most widespread in frame housing construction.

Basalt stone wool is produced in the form of slabs, which greatly simplifies the process of laying it when insulating frame structures. The only point that needs to be taken into account when constructing the frame is the geometric dimensions of the plates, they must correspond to the pitch of the vertical racks of the structure. This will facilitate the work and avoid overspending material.

The main characteristics of mineral wool based on basalt

For all types of insulation, there are indicators (properties) characteristic of a particular material, which were described above. For basalt slabs, these properties correspond to the following values ​​and indicators:


The stern of this mineral wool is able to act as sound insulation, which is characteristic of all types of this insulation.

Advantages and disadvantages of using mineral wool

Any building material has its pros and cons, which determine the scope of its use and service life. Mineral wool is no exception in this regard, it also has its advantages and disadvantages, which can be formulated as follows.

Advantages

  • Low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
  • Is not combustible material;
  • High strength and ability to maintain their geometric dimensions;
  • Ability to low moisture absorption;
  • High level of sound insulation;
  • Resistance to deformation under the influence of external temperature;
  • Resistance to biological and chemical attack;
  • Ease of installation work;
  • Relatively low cost.

disadvantages

  • When performing work without protective equipment, it is possible to damage the respiratory system, eyes and skin, a specialist working with this material;
  • The service life is somewhat shorter than that of analogues (polystyrene, polyurethane foam).

Technology for performing installation work using mineral wool


Mineral wool is used to insulate various structural elements of a frame house, when insulated, there are some features of the technology for performing work.

But first of all, it is necessary to prepare the surfaces of structures for laying insulation, for this it is necessary:

  • Treat the frame with fire-fighting compounds and antiseptic solutions.
  • Clean the surface where the insulation will be laid from dirt, construction waste and other foreign objects.
  • Remove significant irregularities on the frame elements that are not technologically important, but may interfere with the laying of thermal insulation.

Insulation of the floor of a frame house

Floor insulation is carried out on a “rough” flooring or on a slab, depending on the type of frame house. Logs, on which the “clean floor” will be laid in the future, should be laid in increments corresponding to the geometric dimensions of the mineral wool used. The scheme of floor insulation in a frame house is as follows:

"Draft floor" and logs - waterproofing - insulation - vapor barrier - counter rail on the surface of the log - "finishing floor".

Insulation of the walls of a frame house


In a frame house, external and internal walls are insulated, but the scheme of their insulation is somewhat different.

The scheme of insulation of external walls is as follows:

interior finish - vapor barrier - insulation - windproof membrane - exterior finish.

When insulating internal walls, the vapor barrier and windproof membrane are excluded from the scheme.

Insulation of interfloor ceilings

When insulating interfloor ceilings, the scheme used for floor insulation is used, but the installation of waterproofing and vapor barrier is excluded from it, and there is also no counter-rail that provides fastening of the vapor barrier layer.

Roof insulation

The roof is one of the main surfaces through which a significant amount of heat loss occurs in the house, regardless of what material it is made of and by what technology.

During the construction of frame houses, roof insulation is of particular importance. The insulation scheme looks like this:

interior decoration of the attic space - vapor barrier - insulation - waterproofing - counter-lattice - crate - roofing material.

Safety measures when working with mineral wool


When working with mineral wool, certain safety precautions must be observed in order to prevent injury to personnel working with this material.

To create safe working conditions it is necessary:

  • Use personal protective equipment - respirators, gloves, goggles, overalls.
  • It is impossible to organize a meal and the placement of drinking water near the place of storage of mineral wool, as well as with the site for performing work with its use.
  • After completion of the work, it is necessary to clean the premises where the work was performed. Remove remaining mineral wool waste.

Mineral wool is the most common and affordable type of insulation, which is widely used in frame housing construction, both in the factory method for the production of frame houses, and in an individual, independent construction option.

A frame house is one of the fastest and most affordable ways to build housing. But there are many nuances here. After all, there is no structure on the walls that resists the effects of the environment. Therefore, the issue of thermal insulation in such buildings is acute.

For the insulation of frame houses, mineral wool is more often chosen. Therefore, you should figure out which type to choose and how to mount it correctly.

This type of heat insulator is known, given, but is not inferior in popularity and technical characteristics to modern technologies. In some moments, even be a step higher. If we compare the popular polystyrene foam or foam plastic with mineral wool, then the second option well passes the vapors that accumulate in the premises.

Some types of mineral wool are made from waste. For example, metallurgical waste is suitable for slag wool, glass wool is created from the remains of glass production or broken material.

In addition, insulation can be purchased at any hardware store. There are no special transportation conditions either, so you can use your own transport. The main thing is that the cotton wool does not get wet.

Advantages and disadvantages

Manufacturers establish a list of advantages and disadvantages of their material at the design stage. But since mineral wool has already been used, consumers have added a few of their items. The undeniable advantages of insulation include:

  1. Low heat conductivity, which means an excellent heat insulator. But pay attention to the stiffness of cotton wool. A stiffer material retains warm air better.
  2. Fire safety. All types of mineral wool are not capable of sustaining combustion. This point is very important for a frame house.
  3. Duration of operation. This item is possible only if all the rules for installing a heat insulator are observed.
  4. Noise absorption. In addition to being a heat insulator, wool can also reduce the amount of noise that can penetrate into the interior. At what it works well both outside and inside.
  5. Easy installation. There are a few final nuances, but the insulation does not cause any particular difficulties. The material can be easily adjusted to the desired dimensions.

As for the disadvantages, there are only a few of them:

  • hygroscopicity - cotton wool quickly absorbs moisture, and loses its thermal insulation properties. Therefore, it is protected by special membranes on both sides;
  • high cost - when compared with polystyrene foam, the price is slightly higher;
  • the need to use a thicker layer of material to provide thermal insulation;
  • fragility of fibers - especially glass wool. Therefore, the installation of insulation is carried out only in protective clothing using goggles and gloves.

If the owner is not satisfied with this ratio of pluses and minuses, he has the right to choose another option. But before that, be sure to consult with professional craftsmen.

Types of mineral wool

As mentioned above, there are several types of this insulation. Each has its pros and cons, which we have already seen. The options differ in the raw materials used for production.

Slag

Metallurgy waste is the main raw material. At high temperatures, the components fuse and stretch into thin filaments. This option is the cheapest of all types of cotton wool. But it also has a lot of disadvantages:

  1. When wet, strong acids are formed that can destroy even metal.
  2. Retains heat less well.
  3. Short service life.
  4. Able to withstand loads up to 300 degrees Celsius.

glass wool

To make this type of insulation, glass industry waste or the same materials are used as for glass melting (sand, borax, soda, limestone). Everything is well mixed and, of course, fused. Further, thin threads are pulled out, from which the future insulator is formed.

Of the features of the material are:

  • the most brittle and sharp fibers of all types of mineral wool;
  • lower hygroscopicity than that of the slag representative;
  • resists biological, mechanical and chemical influences;
  • gives less shrinkage;
  • withstands heating up to 450 degrees, after which it is melted.

Basalt wool

For this option, rocks are chosen as raw materials, namely basalt and bentonite clays. Therefore, there is another name for stone wool.

Some manufacturers also add carbamide resins. But all components are safe for human life and health. The temperature regime in production is around 1500 degrees.

The material has a lower moisture absorption coefficient, practically does not shrink, and can protect the house from exposure to temperatures in the range from -180 to 700 degrees. The cost of this heater is slightly higher than the previous two. But is it worth saving when it comes to your own comfort and coziness.

Insulation thickness

In order not to make a mistake with the choice of the size of the insulation, be guided by the following points:

  1. Climatic location of the site and the house. If you live in the northernmost part of the country, then you need to choose a thicker insulation or several layers. The thickness of the thermal insulation should be 30 cm.
  2. heating method.
  3. Ceiling height in future rooms.
  4. The size of the windows, as well as their design (wood or plastic and the number of cameras).

The technology of thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool

In order for cotton wool to fully fulfill the tasks assigned to it, it is necessary to adhere to all installation rules. Otherwise, after a few years, the cold will begin to penetrate into the premises, and the frame house will be covered with ice.

The owner at this time will spend all his savings on heating. Therefore, either carefully study all the subtleties of the installation and do everything yourself. Or take care of a professional team.

With regard to technology, here you can work in two directions:

  • from the interior to the outside. From the inside, the wall is sewn up with an OSB slab - vapor barrier - insulation - a hydrobarrier - again a slab - cladding;
  • from outside to inside. First, OSB - hydrobarrier - insulation - vapor barrier - plate - interior decoration.

There are no differences in the amount of materials used, in the future in operation, too, the main thing is not to confuse where the vapor barrier is, and where the hydrobarrier is.

vapor barrier

Such a membrane is covered under a heater. From the side of the room, the wall will be closed with an OSB slab. This layer will allow vapors to freely escape to the outside, but at the same time not to accumulate in the insulation. We already know that mineral wool quickly absorbs moisture, so vapor barrier is a necessary element in the process of warming a frame house.

The film must be laid with an overlap of 10–15 cm. You can move both horizontally and vertically. The joints must be glued with adhesive tape so that moisture does not seep through these places.

Installation of mineral wool

The insulation is placed tightly between the racks of the frame. If the width of the material is 60 cm, then the distance between the elements is about 59 cm.

This is necessary so that the mineral wool does not slip, and even small gaps do not form. But you need to make sure that the plates do not puff up, otherwise it will not work to achieve complete insulation.

Internal walls (interroom) are also filled with mineral wool. In this case, it is used as a sound insulator. The installation process is identical, only there is no need to use a hydro-barrier. It is better to lay a vapor barrier on both sides.

Installation of wind and moisture protection

This layer is laid in exactly the same way as the vapor barrier. The membrane is covered over the insulation, moving either from the bottom up or from left to right.

Be sure to make an overlap of 10-15 cm, which is glued with adhesive tape. Such a membrane will protect the insulation, and the entire frame from atmospheric moisture and strong wind gusts.

wall decoration

For exterior wall cladding of a frame wooden house, you should not use heavy options. Vinyl or acrylic siding works great. To install it, a counter-lattice is stuffed over the wind protection. It is to these strips that the facing material is mounted.

An additional crate will also create a ventilation gap, which means that the moisture that comes out of the rooms will leave the walls faster. The frame of the house will retain strength and reliability longer.

Required Tools

Nothing in particular is needed. Everything that the owner has in the kit is suitable for installing mineral wool. Although some tools may not be at hand. Then we go to the rental or borrow from someone.

  1. Impregnation for wooden elements.
  2. Roller or brush for impregnation application.
  3. Hammer or screwdriver.
  4. Chisel.
  5. Nailer.
  6. Electric jigsaw with blades for transverse and longitudinal cuts.
  7. Construction knife - for cutting insulation.
  8. Wood saw.

How to do everything with your own hands?

In a frame house, as in any other house, it is necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the floor, ceiling, and even the roof. Such events will ensure that in the future residents will not freeze in winter, and in summer they will not languish from the heat. Therefore, it is not worth losing sight of some elements of the structure.

Overlappings

Floor insulation begins with waterproofing. But the execution process will depend on the foundation on which the frame house stands. There are two options:

  1. You can climb under the house - a pile-screw foundation. First, a wind-moisture protective membrane is fixed. Be sure to overlap and glue the joints. On top of it, but from the side of the ground, chipboard is nailed. Next, start working on the side of the premises. It is tightly laid to insulate and closed with a vapor barrier. Then lay the wood board or boards.
  2. If it is not possible to get under the house, then the chipboard is first fixed, and a protective film is laid on top. And then they work in the same way as in the previous version.

To insulate the ceiling, there is also a choice:

  • from the side of the room;
  • from the side of the attic.

The first option is somewhat inconvenient. Mineral wool fibers, breaking off, get into the eyes and respiratory tract. This is very unpleasant and can cause an allergic reaction. But if there is no possibility to use another option, then this one is also suitable.

The insulation is tied up under the ceiling, covered with a vapor barrier, and then OSB or chipboard is used. After that, you can start finishing work.

In the second option, they will first use the plates, then the insulation. After that, the heater is covered. Make sure everything is tight. From above, the mineral wool is covered with either boards or slab material.

pitched roof

It is better to deal with roof insulation even before the roofing material is installed. Work according to the following plan:

  1. Wood boards are fixed from the side of the attic.
  2. Install vapor barrier.
  3. Install mineral wool.
  4. Provides wind and moisture protection.
  5. Install roofing material.

If the roof is completely closed, then they work in the reverse order.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool

When starting to insulate walls, be sure to take into account the height of the walls. If this indicator is higher than 3 m, it is necessary to add horizontal frame elements on which mineral wool will rest. In this case, the load on the lower layers of the insulation is reduced, which means that it will not sag.

September 6, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

The day before yesterday I received an order for the insulation of a frame house. The client undertook the independent construction of this building, however, in the process of work, he decided to immediately adapt a country dwelling for year-round living. He did not know how to properly perform thermal insulation, so he turned to me.

I think that any novice builder may encounter a similar situation, so today I will tell you how and with what to heat-insulate the facade, floor and attic of a country cottage built using frame technology.

Choosing a place for installing thermal insulation

First, I will pay a little attention to where it is better to equip the heat-insulating layer - from the outside or from the inside. I prefer external insulation, however, in order not to be unfounded, I suggest that you familiarize yourself with the table, which outlines the features of the two options mentioned. After studying it, you will be able to make an informed decision on your own.

Outdoor internal
The external insulation scheme provides that the entire insulation pie will be placed on the outside of the dwelling, so the interior of the rooms does not suffer during construction work. With internal insulation, it is necessary to dismantle the decorative finishes of the rooms, and after installing the insulation, perform a fine finish from scratch. This increases the time to complete the work and the estimated cost of construction.
With external insulation, the heat-insulating layer simultaneously protects the enclosing structures of the frame house from the effects of destructive external factors: temperature fluctuations, rain and ultraviolet radiation. Internal insulation shifts the moisture condensation point inside the wall, as a result of which the building envelope is moistened, which significantly reduces its service life.
The wooden wall, which is in direct contact with the warm air in the room, accumulates thermal energy, and when the air temperature drops outside, it releases it, eliminating the need to use heating devices. The insulation installed inside does not protect the enclosing structure from frost. The wall is subjected to numerous cycles of freezing and thawing, which lead to the destruction of its internal structure.

In my opinion, internal thermal insulation can be resorted to only when insulating a very old house: the insulation material installed from the inside will allow you to avoid dismantling the exterior finish, which is not always possible for objective reasons.

Yes, and one more thing. Several times I came across situations where even proper internal insulation was not effective enough to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house during severe winter colds. And I had to install an additional one - outside. So, whatever one may say, external insulation is more reliable.

Well, now let's figure out the better it is to perform thermal insulation of a frame house from the outside.

The choice of thermal insulation material

Given the specifics of a wooden house built using frame technology using sheet facing materials, it is necessary to select a heater taking into account the following requirements:

  1. The heat insulator must be environmentally friendly. The insulating layer should not release chemical compounds dangerous to humans into the air, even if it is heated during operation.
  2. The material must have fire-fighting properties - they will not ignite under the influence of fire and not contribute to the further spread of the flame. It is also desirable to select a heater that does not emit a large amount of smoke during a fire, making it difficult for people to evacuate.
  3. It is better to choose a heater with the lowest coefficient of thermal conductivity, so as not to use a large layer for insulation. The optimal thickness is no more than 100-150 cm (this is the average section of the beam, usually used to construct the frame).
  4. Strength and ability to maintain geometric dimensions. The material installed in the gaps of the frame must fill it completely, without shrinking over time.
  5. Ease of installation. To simplify the process of building a frame house, you need to buy a heater that is easily installed inside the frame walls without the use of complex engineering equipment.

Another factor is the price. Considering the total estimated cost of building a cottage using frame technology, it is necessary to select a heater that will not significantly increase construction costs. However, I would not put the price at the forefront, preferring thermal insulation with optimal technical characteristics and performance properties.

In my opinion, the closest to the requirements listed above is basalt insulation - mats based on fibers from minerals of volcanic origin.

This material has many advantages, which I will reflect in the table below:

Characteristic Description
Low thermal conductivity The coefficient of thermal conductivity λ of basalt wool is about 0.036 W / (m * K) depending on the density of the material. Thermal engineering calculations show that for central Russia, an energy-efficient house can be built with a layer of wool 10 cm thick.
Incombustibility Basalt fiber melts at temperatures above 1000 degrees Celsius, so the material not only does not ignite itself, but also serves as a reliable barrier to the spread of fire.
Hygroscopicity Mineral wool fibers do not absorb water, and the formaldehyde resins used to glue the mats have hydrophobic properties, helping to remove moisture to the outside.
light weight After installation, the insulation practically does not exert additional load on the building envelope, which is important for a fragile frame house.
Easy to install Dense mineral mats of suitable size are simply inserted into the gaps between the frame beams, without the need for additional battens, fittings and the use of "wet" construction processes.

In my opinion, the listed properties are quite enough to persuade you to choose mineral wool. I use TechnoNICOL or Rockwool products for work.

And if you are wondering what is the best way to insulate from the inside, refer to the corresponding article on this blog, which describes in detail the technology you need. Although I can say in advance that mineral wool is so versatile that it can be used to insulate both the house outside and inside.

Tools and materials

In addition to mineral wool (and we decided that it would be basalt fiber), you will need a lot of different materials:

  • OSB boards for interior and exterior cladding of the supporting frame of the walls of the dwelling;
  • wooden bars 30 by 50 mm for arranging a counter-lattice and a ventilation gap between the insulation layer and the decorative finish;
  • hydro- and windproof membrane - a special polymer vapor-permeable film (Juta or Strotex), which prevents the insulation from getting wet and being destroyed by air flow, but does not prevent the removal of accumulated moisture from the heat-insulating layer;
  • internal vapor barrier film - in the described case, I will use foil insulation based on foamed polyethylene (for example, penofol) to increase the efficiency of heating devices;
  • block house, with the help of which external decorative finishing of frame walls will be performed;
  • eurolining, with which I will sheathe the surfaces of the walls from the inside.

I will not dwell on what tools to use. You will understand in the process of further presentation.

Warming process

Now I’m telling you how to insulate a frame house for winter living. The thermal insulation technology of such a structure consists of several steps, which are presented in the diagram:

Step-by-step instructions for warming a frame house with your own hands are presented below. I must say right away that in my case the frame of the dwelling has already been erected, but the interior lining has not been installed. Therefore, the described insulation technology itself has some nuances.

Step 1 - Preparing the Frame

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the frame of the dwelling for installation inside the heat-insulating material. I do it in this order:

  1. I clean wooden parts from dust, debris and dirt. In the future, the frame will be completely hidden by facing materials, so pollution can adversely affect the integrity of the structure, the efficiency and duration of operation of the insulation layer. You can clean the wood with a regular brush or vacuum cleaner.

  1. I repair damaged parts of the frame. In my case, there were no defective areas, since I was insulating a new house during the construction process. But if you find areas of timber damaged by rot, you need to replace the part before installing the heat-insulating material.

  1. I install engineering communications. If a hidden laying of engineering systems is supposed, then it is better to do this before the walls are sewn with decorative material. There are a few features I would like to mention:
    • All electrical must be installed in flexible or rigid plastic or metal cable ducts that protect the insulation layer and the building itself from fire in the event of a short circuit.
    • When installing water pipes inside the wall, there should be no detachable connections, which over time can loosen and leak.

  1. I perform antiseptic treatment of the frame. To do this, it is better to use a universal composition (for example, Guardian), which prevents the formation of mold and fungus on the supporting frame of the dwelling and gives the tree fire-fighting properties. It is necessary to process wood with two layers of impregnation with intermediate drying.

Step 2 - Interior lining

For the inner cladding, I will use OSB boards and vapor barrier material with a heat-reflecting layer of brushed aluminum foil. The work is done in the following sequence:

  1. I sheathe the frame of the house from the inside with OSB sheets. They will serve as a support for leveling the insulating material. A vapor barrier inner layer will be attached to the same surface:
    • Glued fiber sheets must be cut into pieces of the required size according to pre-made drawings.
    • Parts must be made in such sizes that after installation they do not reach the surface of the ceiling, floor and corners. A gap of 2-3 cm thick is needed, through which moisture condensed there will be removed from the surface of the heat-reflecting layer.
    • Sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws to the supporting elements of the frame. The step between adjacent self-tapping screws should not exceed 20 cm.
    • The cladding seams should go in a checkerboard pattern with an offset relative to each other. Their thickness is 2-3 mm, which allow avoiding warping of the surface when changing the dimensions of the base.

  1. Installing vapor barrier material. As I said, penofol will play its role - foamed polyethylene (it will become an additional insulation) with glued foil (it reflects infrared rays, increasing heating efficiency):
    • The material should be placed on the OSB sheets with the reflective layer outward, and then fixed to the panels using a construction stapler or wide-head nails.
    • Penofol rolls must be mounted so that each subsequent layer overlaps the previous one at a distance of 10 cm.
    • To seal the seams inside the overlap, a double-sided adhesive tape is placed, which glues adjacent sheets of heat-reflecting material, preventing water vapor from penetrating into the thickness of the enclosing structures and the insulation layer.

  1. I install counters. They are necessary for arranging the ventilation gap between the foil and the finish lining. You can orient the parts vertically or horizontally, depending on how you will fix the decorative material (in my case, lining). The slats are fixed to the OSB boards with self-tapping screws directly through the foil foam.

  1. I fix the lining on the counter rails. I already once described the technology of wall cladding with clapboard, so I won’t dwell on it in detail. I can only say that it is better to install lamellas on kleimers, thanks to which the change in the size of the eurolining during operation is compensated.

Step 3 - Laying insulation

TechnoNikol Technolight Extra boards are best suited as thermal insulation. On the one hand, they are strong enough to fit tightly between the supporting elements of the frame and stay there without additional fastening. On the other hand, they have a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, therefore, two layers of 5 cm mineral mats are sufficient for insulation.

Another plus is that I advised the client in advance to make the frame of the house with a distance between the supports of 60 cm. This is just the width of the insulation plate. Therefore, pruning is practically not necessary. Thanks to this, expensive material is consumed with maximum efficiency.

  1. Installing the first layer of insulation. As I said, the width of the plates exactly corresponds to the distance between the frame bars, so you just need to bend them in the middle and insert them inside the wall. Having straightened, the mineral mat will firmly take its place. Let me draw your attention to a few things:
    • It is impossible to fix the mineral mat on the inner OSB board. Otherwise, a self-tapping screw can damage the foam layer, which is laid on the surface on the reverse side.
    • Trimming the plates, if necessary, is done with a sharp clerical knife or a saw with fine teeth.
    • After installation of all plates, it is necessary to additionally seal the seams between the plates with polyurethane adhesive from a cylinder. It will glue the fibers of adjacent mats, eliminating the formation of cold bridges.

  1. Installing the second layer of insulation. It is placed on top of the first one so that the lower and upper seams run up. The rest of the rules are the same as in point 1. Don't forget to fill the joints between the boards with polyurethane foam. Excess of it, after the final solidification, will need to be cut off with a sharp one.

  1. I install insulation in structural elements of complex shape. Be sure to insulate all sections of the walls. Of particular difficulty are usually slopes, which serve to strengthen the structure. In this case, you need to cut the mineral mat according to the shape of the recess so that it fits as tightly as possible.

As you can see, the installation of the insulation itself is a simple operation, but it takes a lot of time. However, the process of thermal insulation is not yet over. Outside, the thermal insulation must be reliably protected.

Step 4 - Installation of hydro and wind protection

To protect the insulation from external influences, a special polymer vapor-permeable membrane of increased strength is usually used. Its installation has some features that I want to describe.

The gist is the following:

  1. A film is laid on the insulation layer. The material is fixed with staples and a construction stapler to the frame beams. You can use carnations with wide hats:
    • Work should start from the bottom of the wall, gradually moving up.
    • Film sheets must be placed horizontally.
    • Each next canvas should overlap the previous one at a distance of 10 cm.

  1. I seal the joints between the individual canvases. For this, adhesive tape is used, which is glued to the joints of the film. At the end of the work, a completely sealed canvas should be obtained, which protects the mineral wool from water penetrating through the outer cladding and a draft blowing in the ventilation gap (more on that below).
  2. I stuff the slats of the counter-lattice on the polymer membrane. Here, the ventilation gap is simply mandatory, since moisture condensed on the surface of the insulation will be removed through it. The slats are installed horizontally or vertically and are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

  1. I fix OSB-plates on the rails. I already described the technology for their installation when I talked about the inner lining of a frame house. Therefore, I will not dwell on this stage in detail.

Step 5 - Finishing

The technology of decorative finishing of the facades of the house depends on the chosen material. In my case, this will be a block house, the individual parts of which must be fixed on OSB boards using self-tapping screws.

If you are going to use, for example, vinyl siding, you can not use OSB boards at all, but mount the lamellas on a profile mounted on a counter-lattice.

Step 6 - Attic floor

To make it comfortable to be in a frame house in winter, it is not enough to insulate the walls, because most of the heat loss occurs through the attic floor. Therefore, I will briefly describe how to thermally insulate this surface:

  1. Hem the ceiling from below with OSB boards. You already know the scheme, as I described it above. The filing will not experience a large load, therefore it is enough to fix the parts with self-tapping screws with small tolerances at the seams to compensate for the increase in the size of the substrate.
  2. Fix penofol. I also described the rules for installing heat-reflecting material when I talked about wall insulation technology.
  3. Screw the battens. By the way, they are necessary if you use a vapor barrier with a heat-reflecting layer. It can be replaced with a conventional vapor-permeable membrane. Then the decorative material can be fixed directly on the film, but the total thermal resistance of the walls (R) will decrease, since the walls will not reflect, but absorb infrared rays.
  4. Decorate the surface of the ceiling with clapboard. It is mounted on clamps or screws.
  5. Install insulation from the attic. Mineral wool is inserted into the gaps between the beams of the attic floor, after which it is covered with a waterproofing film and sewn up with sheet material (in my case, OSB boards).

Step 7 - Floors

The last stage of work is the insulation of the floor with your own hands. The technology practically does not differ from the ceiling thermal insulation scheme, with the exception of a few small nuances:

  • the vapor barrier film is placed from the side of the living quarters, and the waterproofing is at the bottom;
  • a tongue-and-groove board is used as a floor covering, which is placed on a counter-lattice;
  • if it is not possible to hem the beams from below, the subfloor boards can be placed on the cranial beams, which are screwed to the side surfaces of the beams.

If you have any questions, you can read a separate material on thermal insulation of floors.

Summary

The technology described above tells about the thermal insulation of a wooden dwelling from the outside. About how to insulate a frame house from the inside, from the video that I bring to your attention.

If you are interested in even more information about the construction and insulation of a frame house, ask your questions and express your own opinion in the comments to the material.

September 6, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

A frame house is a practical, durable and very budget construction option. It has many advantages, especially in the field of ease of construction and installation.

Insulation remains unchanged for a frame house, despite the basic heaters laid in the niches, it is necessary to additionally ensure the preservation of heat.

The material of the frame house is wood or metal, more often they complement each other. Therefore, additional insulation is used either from the outside or from the inside.

Wall insulation in a frame house has long ceased to be a luxury, now it is rather a necessity. Since lately frame structures are becoming more widespread in the cold regions of the country, it is worth thinking about the warmth and comfort in the house.

Each insulation option deserves its right to exist, as in some situations it shows better results. The advantages and disadvantages of each method should be analyzed point by point.

has a higher heat retention coefficient thus reducing energy costs.

This is due to the fact that there is no need to warm up the walls, most of the air is retained directly in the room. The situation is twofold, since walls can also collapse due to a shift in the dew point.. So the moisture from the cold air will be transformed into drops almost in the room itself.

Comparison of insulation methods

Also, the internal insulation option is easier to install; you can get to the wall using a simple stepladder.

In contrast to this advantage, there is a nuance - this is a decrease in the variety of wall decor, that is, the insulation is less durable and the fastening of some structures can be difficult. It is logical that the construction of an additional layer on the walls leads to an overall decrease in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house.

Using the method of internal wall insulation, be sure to pay attention to the environmental friendliness of the material.

- this is a more standard and safer way to keep warm. This type of insulation has the following advantages:

  1. The walls are protected from destruction and are less affected by weather phenomena;
  2. Does not take up space in the room;
  3. Less requirements for the environmental component of the insulation;

List the main types of insulation and their brief description

Insulators are divided according to their properties and method of application, but today the variety of materials is so large that it is very difficult to describe all the options, so only the most popular methods will be affected.

thermal insulation comparison

stone wool

Stone wool is a material that is used everywhere, he is preferred by many developers. The popularity of cotton wool is based on easy installation, since special skills are not required and you can get by with improvised tools.

NOTE!

It is used in frame houses that are built with their own hands, that is, not of a factory design. Thermal insulation fills the openings between the beams of the frames.

Due to its distribution, cotton wool can be found in almost every major hardware store, while transportation is possible even in your own car. The main requirement for the installation of wool is its installation density - there should be no gaps.

stone wool

Styrofoam

- this is a cheaper and moisture-resistant insulation, but at the same time quite fragile. Installation of foam plastic is somewhat more difficult and requires some experience in this area. Since the material does not absorb moisture, there is no need for moisture / vapor barrier membranes, which reduces the cost of the project.

The performance characteristics of polystyrene are somewhat repulsive to many people, which is why serious disputes flare up around the material. As negative points, they note that the material is not at all environmentally friendly and people complain about the deterioration of well-being after warming.

Styrofoam

Mineral wool

It is often used in construction due to its high thermal / sound insulating properties, and mineral substances are increasingly gaining popularity in private construction.

Cotton wool has the appearance of fibers, which are several times smaller than a hair, and all this is in a compressed form. The length of the fiber is 10-15cm.

Due to the presence of a huge number of air cavities in the material, heat is perfectly retained, and with it sound. Installation of wool is as simple as possible due to the flexibility and elasticity of the blocks, while there is no tendency to deformation. There is no risk of fire.

Mineral wool

There are many other types of heaters, such as:

Frame wall insulation pie - what elements does it consist of

There are several basic options for building a frame house, the first is a factory one, when ready-made blocks are initially bought, it is called frame-panel. Another method is to arrange and assemble the panels on site, essentially by hand.

Both options should include several important layers, each of which has its own specific function. In fact, there are only 5 main layers:

  1. So the first, of course, is the facade cladding, this also includes the external insulation, so the function is an attractive design and protection from temperature changes;
  2. Further windproof membrane protects the house from drafts, removes moisture and thereby retains heat;
  3. The frame itself, it always contains some kind of insulation;
  4. A layer of vapor barrier protects the insulation from the penetration of water vapor, which in turn ensures the durability of the building;
  5. Inner lining. There are no special standards here, you can use internal insulation, a variety of decor and everything that seems appropriate to the owner.

warming pie

Layers of vapor barrier and wind protection must be fastened with crates. It is a mesh, usually made of wooden bars, which fixes the necessary films and internal insulation, preventing the structure from deforming.

Sealing gaps and preparing the crate

The crate is vital in the insulation of a frame house. Cause in that it is simply impossible to attach to mineral wool or any other filler, since they are not able to withstand loads.

Further work implies the presence of a crate, the material can serve as an ordinary bar or a profile.

The crate itself additionally serves to seal the inner layer of insulation and its additional ventilation.

  • Before preparing the crate all gaps must be sealed, which can be formed due to a loose fit of the insulation.
  • It is necessary to fill the niches in the frame so that a slight pressure of the insulation on the supports is formed.. This is done so that in the event of drying out of the beams, gaps do not form due to the filler, otherwise large heat losses are guaranteed.
  • Various gaps that cannot be closed with the material simply blown with foam.
  • The crate itself is performed as simply as possible. For the installation of the crate, a board measuring 20x90mm is used. The crate is attached to wooden planks that secure the insulation. You can fill the timber in absolutely any direction, it depends on the decor you choose.

Frame installation

Lathing installation

Proper insulation of the walls of a frame house with mineral wool - in detail and step by step

It is worth noting that mineral wool is a very good material for insulation, but it still has several negative parameters, such as the release of harmful substances, which restricts indoor use.

It is also noted that the material is afraid of moisture and water vapor.

If the mineral wool is saturated with at least a few percent, then the insulation loses half of its heat-insulating properties.

Now you should highlight a few basic steps for insulating walls with your own hands when using mineral wool:

  1. First, it is necessary to sheathe the structure from the inside with a vapor barrier material;
  2. Then sew the inside of the frame, often this is done with OSB.. Thus, niches are created for further sealing;
  3. Usually niches are made to the size of mineral wool, but if necessary, you will have to cut the sheet with a simple knife. It is worth considering that it should be cut 5 mm more on each side than was measured, this creates additional protection against possible gaps;
  4. Selecting the number of mineral wool sheets. Each is 5 cm thick, calculation should be done based on the terrain, in normal cases 2 sheets are sufficient. Sometimes niches are made in several layers that intersect;
  5. Now the frame is sheathed on the outside with wind protection;
  6. There is a crate on top of the insulation.

Installation of mineral wool

Insulation laying

Insulation of frame walls with polystyrene foam - in detail and step by step

Despite the fact that mineral wool is a good material for insulation, it is worth analyzing the internal ways to keep warm. Here, the choice of material should be taken seriously, since one of the most important criteria, in addition to thermal conductivity, is the environmental friendliness of the product.

The best material for internal insulation, and in all respects, is. It has low thermal conductivity, is lightweight, does not allow vapor to pass through and is thin, but alas, it costs a little more than other materials.

Installation of polystyrene foam is quite simple:

  1. A layer of wind protection is laid;
  2. Rails are attached, can be installed in a horizontal or vertical position;
  3. The inside is filled with extruded polystyrene foam;
  4. Usually there is also a vapor barrier, but with this material it is not necessary, so this is followed by a crate and drywall or any other finishing material.

Styrofoam laying

A few words about waterproofing and vapor barrier

Vapor barrier is a certain film that does not allow moisture to accumulate in the layer with insulation. Thus, the penetration of any steam from the side of the room into the various layers of insulation and back is blocked. Often used in conjunction with waterproofing.

vapor barrier

Waterproofing helps to minimize the phenomenon of dew point. Blocks the ingress of moisture into the insulation, usually used outside the wall.

Waterproofing

Useful video

Insulation of frame walls using special technology:

Conclusion

Warming brings comfort and coziness to the house, blocks the occurrence of harmful, destructive phenomena in the structure and at the same time retains heat.

It is not for nothing that frame houses are often called thermoses, because with proper construction, the building is able to retain heat even in the cold season for several days. Also, do not forget about ventilation, since air circulation in the room is minimal.

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