DIY plasterboard rooms. How to make a plasterboard wall without flaws on your own

Many modern apartments do not have a layout and therefore the owners independently lay out total area for rooms using interior partitions, or use decorative ones.

The simplest, fastest and in an accessible way creating interior partitions are plasterboard structures . Such partitions can be either solid or with a door, and if you have the desire and time, then you can make them yourself.

Drywall is a universal building material that is used both for finishing a room and for creating new structures in it, including interior partitions, and for creating apartments. The only things that can compete with it in terms of characteristics are: or

Benefits of using drywall if it is necessary to create an interior partition with a door, they will be as follows:

• This lightweight material , so the load on the structure of the house will be insignificant;
• All work with it is done by hand, without the involvement of assistants, since the material is light;
• the cost of drywall is low, as well as the materials necessary to create the frame and surface finishing ;
• material is easy to cut, it bends easily, so even arched structures are created with its help;
• installation of the frame and sheets is simple and quick;
• finishing of such structures is carried out with various materials;
• plasterboard sheets consist of natural materials, therefore they are safe for human health.

Eat different types drywall, so before buying it, you need to decide which one you need:

1. ordinary, most often gray in color, used in rooms where humidity is no more than 70%;
2. moisture resistant, has green or Blue colour and is used in rooms where there is constantly high humidity;
3. refractory, usually used in the kitchen, where there is a possibility of strong heating of the wall, it contains fiberglass and other additives, it is red or gray in color;
4. fire-resistant moisture-resistant, it is rarely used in rooms with difficult conditions.

The thickness of a regular sheet is 12.5 mm, and to create arches they use sheets 6.5 mm thick, to give them flexibility, they are pre-moistened.

Installation of an interior partition

At the first stage of the work, it is necessary to determine the location of the future partition. To mark, use a plumb line and a cord, parallel lines are drawn on the floor and ceiling.

It is much easier to work with a laser level, but buying it just to create a plasterboard wall is impractical.

Taking into account the presence of a door, the profile is not laid on the floor along the entire length of the partition, but space is left for the doorway. When laying the profile, keep in mind that the distance left for the door is 1-2 cm greater than its width in order to be able to install the door frame.

When marking, the width of the partition is also taken into account, if it is sheathed in one sheet, then 2.5 cm is added to the thickness of the frame, and if the gypsum board is laid in two layers, then 5 cm is added.

To perform the specified work, you will need the following tools:

• building level;
• measuring instruments;
• cord and plumb line, or how to replace them - laser level;
• corner;
• electric drill;
• metal scissors or jigsaw;
• pencil;
• stationery knife;
• putty knife;
• container for plaster.

After marking, we cut the profile to the required length and glue the back walls sealing tape.

Installation of profiles

Work begins with laying and securing the guide profile to the floor, after which it is installed along the entire perimeter of the future partition. The profile is fastened using self-tapping screws or dowel nails, it all depends on the material of the walls.

Now, using the rack profile forming a doorway, this must be done carefully and carefully, so that the distance between the posts at the top and bottom is the same. The verticality of the racks is checked by level, after which they are fixed.

To increase the strength of the doorway, it is recommended to lay wooden blocks of the appropriate size in the racks and secure them with self-tapping screws.

On next stage the remaining rack profiles are mounted if you have gypsum plasterboard standard width, then the distance between them is required 60 cm.

To increase the strength of the future partition, between the vertical posts it is necessary to secure horizontal jumpers, which are cut from the same profile.

A wooden block is also installed and secured into the transverse profile located above the doorway; it should easily fit into it so as not to disturb the shape, using a square check that the angles are 90 degrees.

The remaining transverse profiles are attached to the racks; special short screws are used for this.

After the frame is created, you will see that its structure is quite rigid and durable, start laying electrical wiring. The rack profiles have holes through which it will be convenient to thread wires.

The wiring is placed in a special corrugated non-combustible insulation.

Fastening drywall

At home You can use a utility knife to cut drywall and a long ruler or staff. To do this, apply a ruler to the sheet, make a cut along the line several times, the deeper it is, the better, and then carefully break the gypsum board and get the required size.

To simplify finishing work, make a chamfer at the cut site at an angle of about 45 degrees, a plane or knife is used for this.

During the calculations, It is necessary to foresee in advance the places where you plan to mount hanging furniture or equipment.

Here additional profiles reinforced with wooden blocks must be installed, it all depends on the weight of the suspended structures.

Left place the sheet on the posts and secure it, this is done using self-tapping screws; they are installed in increments of 20 cm and slightly recessed into the sheet.

If you forgot to chamfer the sheets before installing them, do this with a knife when they are installed on the wall.

Carrying out finishing work

Installation of the frame and gypsum board is only the beginning of creating a plasterboard partition. At the next stage All seams are sealed. To do this, use sickle tape and putty. The entire surface of the wall is also puttyed.

After the base has dried, begin leveling the surface. The wall is covered with primer, which will allow the plaster to adhere better and provide additional protection GKL. Leveling is carried out with a wide spatula and finishing plaster.

Door block installation

In the prepared opening is performed installation door frame, they do this with wedges, screws and polyurethane foam. First, the frame is aligned using wedges and fixed with self-tapping screws, after which they proceed to installing the door leaf.

The correctness of the work is checked, and the door should open and close easily. If everything is normal, then the remaining gaps are filled with polyurethane foam.

At this time, the door is in the closed position, or spacers are inserted into the frame so that when the foam hardens, it does not deform it.

The foam is cut off after it has completely hardened; if the canvas was removed, then it is hung only a day later, after installing the box.

Finishing

On last stage creating a wall from plasterboard, its finishing is carried out, for this purpose it is usually use paint or wallpaper. The frame is covered with platbands, which help hide the door attachment points.

Features of insulation and sound insulation

It is not recommended to leave a hollow partition; it will be filled with sheet or roll insulation. They are laid after one side of the wall is covered with plasterboard, and only then is it sheathed on the other side.

If you plan to install utilities in such a wall or sliding door, then in the place where they are located, insulation is not laid.

To create sound insulation, use mineral wool or isover. From below, when installing the sheet, you need to leave a small gap, so stands of the appropriate thickness are installed.

In order for you to be able to create a plasterboard wall with an opening for doors yourself, must be adhered to the following tips specialists:

1. During the installation of partitions in the room must be at least 10 degrees Celsius.
2. You need to calculate required amount guides and rack metal profiles, only then purchase them. Cut them according required size You can use a jigsaw or metal scissors.
3. The sheets are laid tightly to each other.
4. To create holes for sockets, you must use special drill bits.
5. In the places where the sheets are joined, be sure to use a sickle and seal the heads of the screws well with putty, after which the entire wall is puttied.
6. As finishing materials, you can use paint, wallpaper, tiles, cladding panels and others.

Conclusion

Now you see that there is nothing complicated in the construction of plasterboard partitions and all the work can be done independently. Having studied the technology for performing the work, advice from experts and having prepared the necessary tools, feel free to begin performing the specified work.

Useful video

How to make a partition from plasterboard with your own hands, step-by-step instruction on video:

In contact with

Not always in apartments or purchased houses, new owners like the standard layout of the rooms. So the question arises, how to build a plasterboard wall with your own hands?

Building a permanent wall is quite difficult, moreover, for apartment buildings approval will be required from the relevant authorities. In this case, the easiest way out is installation plasterboard partition, and the article will tell you how to do this.

Gypsocraton is a flexible, lightweight and easy-to-work material.

With its help, you can give any room an original and unique look. It could be:

• A wall dividing a room.
• A plasterboard partition of unimaginable shape.
• Complex decorative design.

To build a plasterboard wall, you must follow the following sequence of work:

• Make a wall frame. Typically, metal profiles or wooden slats are used for this.

Tip: Preference for the frame should be given metal elements, having greater strength and less susceptibility to external factors, such as: mechanical stress, humidity. In addition, the price of the material is quite affordable, and the profile of the parts is made specifically for this material.

• Sheathe the wall on both sides with sheets of plasterboard, which can be ordinary, moisture-resistant or fire-resistant, which depends on the purpose of the room where the plasterboard walls are being built.
• Fill the space between the canvases. It could be glass wool or mineral wool.

The advantages and disadvantages of installing plasterboard walls are shown in the table:

Frame materials

Before a wall is built from plasterboard, a durable frame of the selected configuration is made. For this purpose, a metal profile is used, specially designed for the panels, and a number of auxiliary devices used during its installation.

For this purpose, the following profile sizes are used:

• D - to form the surface on which the drywall will be attached.
• W- for the construction of a general wall frame.
• C – reference.
• U – guide. This is a simple U-shaped profile with smooth side walls; a support profile with special ribbing made by pressing is inserted into it at the end, which increases the bending rigidity of the element.

Main profile dimensions:

• CD – load-bearing element frame with dimensions 60x27 millimeters.
• UD – guide for fastening the CD profile, with dimensions 28x27 millimeters.
• CW – profile for wall frame posts, with dimensions 50x50; 50x75; 50x100 millimeters.
• UW – guide for CW profile, dimensions 50x40; 75x40; 100x40 millimeters.
• UA profile is a variant of the CW profile, but more rigid.

The type of profiles and dimensions are shown in the photo.

To count approximate quantity materials, a table is presented that indicates consumption rates necessary materials for installation of a partition, the dimensions of which are:

• Length – 3.5 meters.
• Width – 2.5 meters.
• Height excluding door openings.

When constructing a frame, it is necessary to keep in mind that:

• For a plasterboard wall with a thickness of 5; 7.5 or 10 centimeters, W profile is used.
• For a thicker partition, a D series profile is installed, and the guide elements are fixed in parallel, 2 at a time, instead of the standard one.
• Any distance between the guides can be chosen, depending on the presence of insulation or installation of communications.

Preparing for wall installation

The instructions for installing a plasterboard wall suggest starting work with preparatory operations.

For this:

• Markings are made on the floor, ceiling and walls where the partition is supposed to be installed.
• The lines for installing the wall are drawn in relation to the window parallel to the other two walls.
• A rigid guide profile is screwed along the intended perimeter with dowels, serving as a support for the structure being constructed.

When constructing a plasterboard wall, the following rule must be observed:

• The profile for the racks turns with the stiffening rib to the side where the fastening of the sheets begins.
• If installation is done from right to left, the ribs should be on the right.
• For the partition in which the door is provided, a rigid rack profile must be installed. Detailed video This article will allow you to see the whole process with your own eyes and understand what appearance the prepared structure will have.

• Rack profiles are distributed along the guides in increments of approximately 50 centimeters.

Tip: Joints between two sheets should only be made on the profile. This will increase the strength of the structure.

• Additional profiles are inserted into the part of the wall located above the door to ensure rigid fixation of the sheets.

Wall paneling

Before you start attaching drywall, you need to choose the right material. The strength and durability of a plasterboard structure depends on the quality of the material, its compliance performance characteristics the room in which the wall will be installed.

The basis of plasterboard is a gypsum core, which is covered on both sides with multilayer cardboard.

Plasterboard sheets (GKL), depending on the constituent elements, are divided into:

• GKL– standard sheets of plasterboard used for “lining” rooms with normal humidity. It has low fire-retardant characteristics. The cost of such material is the lowest.
• GKLO– fire-resistant plasterboard. In this case, the gypsum filler contains fiberglass reinforcement, and the cardboard is impregnated with fire retardants, which reduce the flammability of the material. Fiberglass retards the spread of flame.
• GKLV– waterproof plasterboard, used for constructing partitions in wet rooms: bathrooms, balconies and lining walls. The ability of drywall to absorb moisture is maximally reduced by the cardboard layer of gypsum plasterboard impregnated with hydrophobic compounds.
• GKLVO – combined type plasterboard, which combines waterproof, fire-resistant properties. Its cost is the highest.

Depending on the purpose, the thickness of the plasterboard sheets is selected:

• It is better to cover the walls with wall gypsum plasterboard with a thickness of 12.5 millimeters.
• The ceiling is sheathed with ceiling plasterboard - 9.5 millimeters thick (see Cladding the ceiling with plasterboard: doing it right).
• To create a figure on a plasterboard wall, you will need an arched plasterboard, 7.5 - 8 millimeters thick.

Advice: When purchasing drywall, you must carefully inspect the sheets for defects on them, so that there is no damage to the cardboard or a beveled core.

Drywall cutting

To cut the material, a construction knife with a set of replaceable blades is used.

After that:

• The sheet is placed on a flat, necessarily hard surface.
• Use a pencil or marker to mark the cutting line.
• Cuts with a knife top part cardboard
• The sheet is shifted along the cut line onto the lump of support and neatly breaks.
• The sheet returns to starting position, turns on edge and then bends.
• The cardboard is cut from the second side, but not all the way through.
• The canvas is turned over to the other side, shifted to the edge of the support and finally separated.

Tip: To ensure a gap, for high-quality sealing of the seams subsequently with putty, it is necessary to form a bevel on the edge of the sheet with an inclination of approximately 22.5° degrees using a special plane for drywall.

Fastening sheets

The plasterboard is attached to the metal frame with 3.5x35 mm self-tapping screws.

Wherein:

• The corners of the sheet are attached.
• Fasteners are placed in increments of 10–25 centimeters along the edges of the sheet and along its center line.
• The self-tapping screws are screwed in so that the caps of the elements are slightly recessed into the gypsum board, and do not protrude above the level of the wall.

Tip: The sheets should be fixed higher from the floor at a distance of 15 millimeters to ensure the integrity of the structure during operation.

• After attaching the first sheet, the remaining distance to the ceiling is measured and the corresponding section of plasterboard is prepared.
• A chamfer is cut on it to improve the joining of the blades to the upper or bottom sheet and to the ceiling.

• All subsequent sheets are attached entirely without chamfers, in a checkerboard pattern: after installing the first row, a whole sheet of plasterboard is placed under the ceiling, and the missing part is placed below.

Installation of wiring, sockets, switches:

Sound insulation and wall finishing

Mineral wool is used for sound insulation. In this case, a plasterboard wall reduces the penetration of sound from one room to another.

For this:

• The cotton wool fits tightly between the frame posts without gaps, without additional fastening.
• The reliability of laying the material can be improved with horizontal jumpers made of wooden beams, the length of which is selected according to the width of the wall, and pieces of mineral wool will be of shorter length.

• After laying the sound insulation, the second side of the wall is sheathed.
• All end surfaces are filled.
• Serpyanka mounting mesh is glued to the joints.
• Starting putty is applied.
• The entire surface is treated with finishing putty.
• The surface is finally leveled using an abrasive mesh and a float.
• The wall is ready to apply any suitable coating.

Design solutions

A beautifully designed plasterboard wall creates original look any premises, and its owner good mood. The video will show you how to do this. How can you decorate a plasterboard wall?

A few examples are presented below:

• The walls can be plastered and covered with moisture-resistant paint.

• Cover with natural or artificial stone.

• Make a mosaic or tile finish.

• You can make a drawing on a plasterboard wall.

• You can make a niche indoors from plasterboard with LED lighting.

• A fireplace made of plasterboard in the wall looks great.

The color scheme can be very different and match color scheme the entire room.

In order to do everything correctly and avoid mistakes when installing the structure, before installing a plasterboard wall with your own hands, it is better to watch the video. In it, all stages are accompanied by visual instructions.

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How to make a wall from plasterboard: from calculating the material to finishing

In this article I will talk about how to make a plasterboard wall with your own hands or use it to level the surface of a main wall. The reader and I will have to learn how to solve the problems of calculating the material, installing the sheathing, fastening the plasterboard, reinforcing and puttying the seams, as well as pre-finishing the wall surface. So, let's go.

Go shopping

Choice

Let's look at some of the most typical scenarios that you may encounter when building or decorating your home. Here they are:

• Leveling a gypsum board wall without a frame. The sheet material is glued directly to the wall;

This is acceptable if the curvilinearity, blockage and differences of the wall do not exceed 4-5 centimeters. For uneven conditions bigger size the cost of leveling the base will exceed the cost of assembling the sheathing.

• False wall made of plasterboard(alignment of the main wall with the frame);

• Assembly internal partition from gypsum plasterboard on a frame.

Sheathing the wall frame or sheathing can be done in one or two layers. Double-layer cladding is needed when there are strict requirements for the strength of walls in rooms with high traffic (for example, in the hallway or in the kitchen).

Different types of drywall can be used to finish or assemble a wall:

There are several subtleties associated with choosing the type of drywall:

1. Moisture-resistant material is resistant to high humidity(due to reducing hygroscopicity and antifungal additives). With prolonged contact with water, it gets wet in the same way as regular plasterboard. Plaster is plaster;
2. In damp rooms, ordinary drywall can be used for finishing, provided that it is reliably protected from contact with water vapor and splashes of the finishing coating. Yes, when finishing attic floor I assembled its ceiling from white plasterboard and, after puttying, painted it with rubber waterproofing paint. Three years of operation showed the full viability of the solution;

1. Any gypsum board is resistant to open fire: It does not support combustion and prevents the spread of flame. Fire-resistant material only withstands intense heat longer without destruction.

Wall gypsum board has a thickness of 12.5 mm. Sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm or less are used only for finishing the ceiling and other surfaces that do not experience operational loads. Sheet length at vertical mounting determined by the height of the ceilings in your apartment; if it is close to three meters or exceeds them, it is better to purchase material measuring not 2500x1200, but 3000x1200 mm.

What is used as a frame?

• Installation of a plasterboard wall - with or without a doorway - is carried out on a CW rack profile and a UW guide. The thickness of the profile (50, 75 or 100 mm) is determined by the requirements for the strength of the wall and the need to lay the sewer system inside the partition (all other types of pipelines fit perfectly into the frame of the partition minimum thickness- 50 mm);

• For wall cladding along the frame, the CD ceiling profile, UD ceiling guide and direct hangers are used.

Why shouldn't you use wooden frames and lathing? There are several reasons:

1. Fluctuations in humidity cause minor changes linear dimensions bar and, more importantly, its deformations (bends, “propellers”, etc.). These processes entail the appearance of cracks in the cladding along the seams;
2. Wood is prone to rotting in a humid atmosphere. Antiseptic impregnation, alas, is not a panacea: it will only delay the inevitable;
3. The tree becomes a tasty dish for insects. Woodworms are quite capable of rendering the frame completely unusable in just a few years.

Wood is a tasty food for several types of insects.

In addition to the frame elements and the gypsum board itself, you will need:

• Dowel screws measuring 60x6 - 80x8 mm for fastening guide profiles and suspensions to permanent structures;
• Metal screws 9 mm long for connecting profiles to each other and to hangers;
• GKL self-tapping screws for fastening sheets (25 mm long when covering the frame in one layer and 45 mm when covering the frame with a second layer on top of the first);
• Damper tape. It will act as an acoustic decoupler between the frame of a false wall or partition and the permanent structures of the building;
• Penetrating acrylic primer for mineral substrates and drywall;
• Plaster finishing putty. had the most effect on me pleasant impression ABS Saten putty: the finished mixture lasts about 45 minutes (versus half an hour for the more popular Fugenfüller from Knauf), does not clump when mixed, and, if necessary, can be diluted with water for longer use;

• The reinforcing material is serpyanka (rolled fiberglass mesh with an adhesive layer on one of the surfaces) or rolled fiberglass 5-8 cm wide. When using the latter, you will have to stock up on PVA glue.

To stick gypsum plasterboard onto a main wall, gypsum glue (Perlfix, Volma Montazh, etc.) is usually used. However, it can be successfully replaced by any gypsum putties and plasters: their price approximately corresponds to the cost of glue, while they have the same adhesion to the surfaces being glued and also give minimal shrinkage.

Calculation

Here is an approximate amount of material consumption for each scenario we considered.

The data is given for gypsum boards, the height of which corresponds to the height of the room. The use of additional sheets will entail additional expenses for strengthening, reinforcing and sealing seams.

GKL for glue

• Drywall is purchased at the rate of 1.1 m2 per square meter of wall (1.2 m2 in the case of curved walls of complex configuration). The amount of scraps is minimal, and most of them are used as additional sheets in the corners;
• The average consumption of dry gypsum glue is 5 kg per sheet measuring 2500x1200 and 6 kg per sheet measuring 3000x1200 millimeters. Consumption will increase if the wall has significant unevenness;

• Primer for mineral bases is purchased at the rate of 300 ml/m2. It will be used both for priming the main wall for glue, and for treating the surface of drywall for finishing;
• The approximate consumption of dry gypsum putty is 0.4 kg/1m2. It may increase if there are a large number of seams between sheets (for example, on wall bends or when using large quantity additional sheets);
• Serpyanka is purchased at the rate of 1.5 linear meters per finishing square.

Cladding on frame

To the above consumption of gypsum plasterboard, soil, putty and reinforcing material will be added:

• UD guide profile at the rate of 0.75 linear meters per square area;
• Ceiling profile CD (2 linear meters per square);
• Direct hanger (1.6 hangers per square meter of sheathing);
• Dowel screws (4 pieces per square);
• Self-tapping screws for metal 9 mm long - 7 pcs/m2;
• Self-tapping screws for plasterboard with a length of 25 mm - 17 pcs/m2, or 50 per sheet of drywall;
• Damping soundproofing tape - 0.8 m/m2.

Partition

Installation of plasterboard walls requires the purchase of materials in the following quantities:

• GKL - 2.2 m2 per square of partition when sheathed in one layer and 4.4 when sheathed in two layers on both sides
• UW guide profile - 0.75 linear meters per square meter of wall area;
• Rack profile - 2 meters per square;
• Self-tapping screws for gypsum boards - at the rate of 50 pieces per sheet;
• Self-tapping screws for metal (9 mm) - 7 pcs/m2;
• Dowel - screws - 1.5 pcs/m2;
• Putty - 0.8 kg/m2;
• Serpyanka - 3.3 m/m2;
• Damper tape - 0.7 m/m2.

In addition: if the wall is filled with insulation, its area should be equal to the area of ​​the partition minus the openings. The thickness of the insulation quite predictably corresponds to the thickness of the rack profile.

Frame installation

False wall

How to make sheathing for a false wall?

Here are the step-by-step instructions:

1. Along the perimeter of the wall that is supposed to be finished, a frame fastening line is marked on adjacent surfaces (walls, floor and ceiling). As a rule, the distance between the sheathing and the main wall is kept to a minimum for reasons of saving usable space. An exception is the situation when the space behind the false wall is used for niches, shelves or for laying communications;

I usually mark the partition line on the floor and then transfer it to the ceiling using a plumb line. The markings on the walls simply connect two horizontal lines to each other.

1. Along the markings along the entire perimeter of the frame, a guide ceiling profile with a damper tape placed under it is fastened with dowel screws;
2. Vertical fastening lines are marked on the main wall ceiling profiles in increments of 60 cm;

The pitch is measured between the axes of the profiles, and not from edge to edge. The width of the sheet (120 cm) must be a multiple of this step so that the joints of the sheets fall on the profile.

1. Direct hangers are attached with dowel-screws along the lines in increments of 80 cm;
2. Ceiling profiles are cut to length using metal scissors and inserted into the guides;
3. Then each profile is aligned according to the rule or edge of a sufficiently long and perfectly straight board, after which the ears of straight hangers are screwed to it with metal screws. The free parts of the ears are bent towards the wall.

Partition

The construction of plasterboard walls requires a slightly different approach to the installation of the frame.

1. The partition line is marked in the same way as in the previous case;
2. Along the line to the adjacent walls, floor and ceiling, a UW guide profile is attached with dowels and screws. The damper tape, of course, is placed under it in this case as well;
3. The positions of the rack profiles are marked on the floor and ceiling. The step is the same as when facing the wall - 60 cm;
4. The rack profiles are screwed to the guides with metal screws 9 mm long. Each rack is attached on both sides.

How to assemble a wall if a door or skylight is supposed to be installed in the partition?

They are mounted at the frame assembly stage in the following order:

1. A gap with a width equal to the width of the door frame is left in the lower guide profile;
2. The door leaf is hung on hinges and wedged in the frame with spacers made of thin plywood, hardboard or cardboard folded several times. The goal is to prevent the door from rubbing against the jambs after installation;
3. On one side of the opening, a rack profile is mounted to the guides;
4. A strip is applied to the profile polyurethane foam, after which the box is positioned close to it along a plumb line and is attracted from the side of the profile with self-tapping screws 16 - 25 mm long (depending on the thickness of the box) in increments of no more than half a meter;
5. On the opposite side of the box, a second rack profile is similarly attached;
6. The second post is then pulled towards the guides;
7. The racks are connected to each other by a jumper made of a rack or guide profile, secured in the same way to the top crossbar of the door frame.

When inserting into plasterboard wall for a light window, a gap in the guide profile is not needed for obvious reasons; a second horizontal jumper is mounted under the window between the posts. Otherwise, the instructions for assembling the frame are completely identical to those described above.

Wall paneling

On glue

The main wall is thoroughly cleaned of peeling plaster and low-adhesive coatings (paint, whitewash, etc.). Paint can be removed in the following ways:

1. Warm her up construction hairdryer and remove with a steel spatula;
2. Use a universal remover. After applying it, the paint layer softens in 10-15 minutes and is again removed with a spatula;
3. Finally, to clean the wall, you can use a drill with wire brush or a grinder with a flap grinding wheel.

Lime whitewash is removed with a spatula with preliminary soaking: the wall is generously moistened with water using a brush or spray.

Then the surface of the wall is swept away from dust and primed twice without a pause for drying. acrylic primer. The function of the primer is to adhere dust residues and bind upper layer base with the lower ones, preventing it from peeling or falling off.

Gypsum glue is prepared as follows:

• Water is poured into a clean wide container at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kilograms of dry mixture;
• Then the gypsum glue itself is poured. It is distributed as evenly as possible over the surface of the water;
• After 3-5 minutes, the glue that has absorbed water is mixed with a spatula, trowel or construction mixer.

Gypsum is applied to the wall or to the sheet itself (if its area is small) in cakes with increments of 15-20 centimeters. A continuous bead of gypsum glue is formed directly above the floor - it is needed for installing the plinth.

If there are significant unevenness of the base on the surface of the main wall, it is worth pre-fixing the beacons. This role can be played by scraps of drywall glued to the same gypsum adhesive or screwed into desired depth dowel-screws.

Each sheet is aligned in vertical plane on a long level. In case of deformations, the position of the plasterboard is straightened with light blows of the palm or a rubber mallet. The edges of adjacent sheets are checked by the rule: they must lie strictly in the same plane.

How to cut drywall in corners and make cutouts for openings?

• Curved lines and holes are cut with a hacksaw (using plasterboard or a regular garden saw), as well as with a jigsaw and a wood saw. Cutting does not require any special skills and takes a little time, but at the same time it rises into the air great amount dust;

Comrades, attention: during any work with drywall and plaster putty, turn off all computers and laptops in the house and cover them with plastic. Gypsum dust is an excellent abrasive. It quickly and reliably disables active cooling systems of processors, video cards and power supplies.

• Drywall is not sawed along straight lines, but broken, after cutting the sheet with a sharp knife to a quarter to a third of its thickness. You can break off the sheet along the cut at the edge of a table or any other elevation. Then all that remains is to cut through the kraft paper from the back and, if necessary, remove any unevenness on the edge with a plane.

After the gypsum glue has set, the seams between the sheets cut to size are unstitched: their edges are chamfered to approximately half the thickness of the sheet. This is necessary to fill the joint as tightly as possible when puttying.

On the sheathing or frame of the partition

How to make a false wall using a finished sheathing? In the same way as installation of plasterboard walls is carried out: each sheet is attached to the profiles with self-tapping screws in increments of 15 - 20 centimeters. In this case, the edges of adjacent sheets should be attached to the same profile: this will minimize the likelihood of cracks appearing at the seams.

When filing a sheet to a profile in the middle, I use a little trick: I screw in the top screw to the middle and hang a plumb line on it. The following screws are screwed in along the plumb line, which eliminates the need for markings.

Another little trick helps you make the pitch between fasteners constant without using a measuring tool. It is enough to place your index finger on the head of the screw and screw in the next screw at the tip of the thumb that is retracted as far as possible.

Help: the corresponding Old Russian measure of length is called span and is translated into metric system like 17.78 cm.

The span is a measure of length that is always with you.

To screw in the fasteners, use a screwdriver (corded or battery-powered) with a ratchet set to operate at the moment when the screw head begins to sink into the drywall. Ideally, the cap should sink below the level of the craft paper by about a millimeter: it will need to be hidden when puttying the finished wall.

When sheathing the frame in two layers, the second layer is attached to cover all vertical and horizontal seams. The first layer is fixed with 25-25 self-tapping screws 25 mm long per sheet; the second is mounted with longer (45 mm) self-tapping screws with a usual pitch of 15-20 cm.

Reinforcement and puttying

How to make walls from plasterboard with your own hands - we have at least figured it out. However, the resulting structure is far from ready: the seams and screw heads (if the walls were installed with plasterboard on the frame) need to be puttied. In addition, all seams need reinforcement: without it, deformation of the gypsum board due to fluctuations in humidity and temperature will lead to the appearance of cracks in just a couple of years.

Reinforcement with serpyanka is extremely simple: it is glued along the joint of adjacent sheets, after which it is covered with two layers of putty. The seam is filled directly through the serpyanka cells.

If you are going to reinforce the seams with fiberglass, the technology will be different: the seam is filled with putty, and only after that the fiberglass is glued to PVA glue diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio. Of course, after the glue has dried, the reinforcement will have to be covered with at least one more layer of putty.

Do not smooth the glued fiberglass with your bare hands. The finest glass fibers remain in the skin and subsequently cause a lot of unpleasant sensations. It is better to use a regular or rectangular spatula for smoothing.

How to properly putty seams and screw heads?

1. To fill the seam, a spatula 10-12 cm wide is used. The putty is pressed into the seam with oblique movements in a crisscross manner: this ensures the complete absence of cavities;

1. To cover the reinforcement, apply the putty with a narrow spatula onto a wider one (30-35 cm) and apply it with sliding movements along the seam. Puttying should completely hide the texture of the reinforcing material;

1. The head of the fastener is covered with two oblique movements of a narrow (10-12 cm) spatula in a crosswise manner. The first movement fills the cavity above the cap with putty, the second removes its excess. The caps, like the seams, need to be puttied at least twice: gypsum putty gives a small but quite noticeable shrinkage when drying.

Often, plasterboard walls are puttied over the entire area: putty completely hides unevenness in the seams, and also creates a separating layer between the kraft paper and the wallpaper pasted over the rough finish. The putty is applied with a wide spatula in a layer 1 millimeter thick.

However: it is easier for a beginner to apply two as thin layers as possible “to scratch”.

Very important point: both the tool and the utensils for putty must be thoroughly washed before preparing each new portion of it. Lumps of hardened gypsum remaining on the spatulas and in the container during puttying leave untidy furrows on the surface.

Sanding and priming

For sanding, I use an inexpensive oscillating sander with sanding grids - #80 for the first pass and #120 for the second. GCR needs to be sanded under the brightest possible oblique lighting: it will highlight the slightest irregularities in shadows.

After sanding, the surface of the walls is swept away from dust and primed with acrylic primer for wallpaper or painting.

The last stage of rough wall finishing is priming for painting or wallpaper.

GKL can be painted with water-dispersion paints only two weeks after puttying. Otherwise, the seams will show through the paint no matter the number of layers. Checked personally.

Useful little things

How to install a wall of minimum thickness, ensuring its maximum rigidity?

Here are several ways to achieve structural rigidity with a rack profile thickness of 50 mm:

• Place a wooden embed in each rack - a block with a cross-section of 50x50 mm;
• Connect the rack profiles in pairs, nesting them inside each other;

The thickness of the partition frame in the photo is only 50 mm. Rigidity is provided by pairwise connected rack profiles.

• Reduce the pitch between the posts from 60 to 40 centimeters;
• Make the sheathing two-layer.

How to properly make a wall soundproof?

Damping tape and filling the frame with mineral wool solve the noise problem only partly. To ensure complete sound insulation, the surfaces of the partition must be acoustically decoupled from each other. For this, two independent frames are assembled with minimum distance between them; the racks are mounted in a checkerboard pattern. Each post is in contact with only one side of the partition.

Conclusion

I hope that my recommendations will help the dear reader in repair and construction. As usual, Additional materials can be found in the video in this article. Feel free to share in the comments own experience. Good luck, comrades!

Sometimes, to bring the walls into proper shape, damp plaster turns out to be useless. The condition of the surface may be so poor that other materials will be needed for repairs. Or is perfect evenness required? vertical structures for subsequent finishing.

This can only be achieved by covering the walls with plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard) over an installed metal frame.

The high demand for this building material is caused by many pronounced advantages that clearly emerge as a result of its use.

In this regard, it is worth noting that the capabilities of drywall are not limited to straightening walls. It is often used for redevelopment of premises and internal zoning.

During the installation process, walls and partitions made from gypsum plasterboard differ from other structures by an undeniable advantage. They can be easily installed independently without the involvement of professional teams.

Their installation, like leveling walls with plasterboard, does not require the purchase of expensive equipment. The technology is quite simple and if certain nuances associated with the processing of plasterboard sheets are observed, the work can be completed quickly and efficiently.

Drywall capabilities

Interest in plasterboard is caused not only by its use as dry plaster, leveling walls or as a material for installing interior walls. It mainly attracts with its capabilities, thanks to which, when working with it, you can make any configuration of wall structures.

Most often, gypsum boards are used to install beautiful arches, original figured partitions and other space-delimiting structures.

The ease with which the material can be processed allows you to arrange any wall design and change the layout according to a pre-developed project of any type, from simple to the most complex.

To decide to change something in a house or apartment, you need an appropriate reason or a visual example of what you would like to see in the end. As a rule, visual images of various structures made of gypsum board and presented in advertising catalogs become motivators for such actions.

Having seen photos of plasterboard walls, many are eager to install something similar in their home. All the more attractive is the fact that such a thing (wall, partition) can be built independently.

Installation of plasterboard walls

Before you start building the wall, you need to thoroughly prepare. In this case, we are talking not only about the purchase of material and tools.

The internal wall is the main element dividing the space into certain zones. Therefore, it must be properly planned. All requirements must be taken into account. Decide on the need for insulation or ignore it. Decide which material is more suitable for a particular room, regular gypsum board or moisture resistant.

In addition, you have to worry about the design of the product. A drawing made in a horizontal plane, with plotted parameters and a detailed appearance in several projections (central and lateral).

The main components when constructing gypsum plasterboard walls

The base of wall structures is usually a metal frame made of galvanized profiles. They are distributed by standard sizes. Some types of profiles are installed as guides, others as elements vertical racks. They are also designated according to their purpose.

For example, the PS profile is a stand, and the PN profile is a guide. The choice of section depends, first of all, on the purpose of the structure. If you want to divide a large room into two different uses (children’s room and bedroom), then you need a wide frame for installing insulation boards inside.

For sheathing, of course, you will need sheets of drywall. To ensure that the wall is strong and has an increased level of sound insulation, it is better to cover it in two layers on both sides of the installed frame.

Based on this, the material is calculated by calculating the area of ​​the wall minus the opening and multiplying the resulting number by four, according to total number layers. Small holes, such as a niche in the wall or holes for pipe routing, are not taken into account in the calculations.

It must be remembered that the frame racks are installed in increments of 0.6 meters. This is in accordance with the normative data.

Parameters of a gypsum board sheet 1.2x2.5 m. The sheets are mounted in such a way that the dividing seams run along the center line of the wide shelf, and a whole rack is located in the middle of the sheet.

Self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. Their length should exceed the thickness of the side layer of two sheets. So that the screws hold tightly in the body of the structure and have a rigid grip with metal frame, they are screwed in with a screwdriver or drill.

Finishing work

When the wall is mounted and all technological methods are taken into account, proceed to finishing works. First of all, the seams are processed. To do this, use a primer, putty and serpyanka (painting tape).

The seams are primed, tape is applied and smoothed with putty. The result should be a continuous, flat surface.

If painting is intended, the entire surface is puttied to avoid gaps.

Wall finishing is considered the final stage, but is nevertheless very important. The final appearance, which as a result will attract the main attention. Therefore, you should carefully consider the associated work before applying the finishing coat.

Especially if it's painting or wallpapering. In this case, you need to make sure that there are no putty residues, cracks or scratches anywhere in the area of ​​the seams. The surface is sanded with a special mesh, and then finishing is started. A gypsum board wall can be considered complete.

Photo of plasterboard walls

From the author: We welcome you, dear reader of our repair and construction portal. Since you have come to this particular page of the site, then most likely you are planning to remodel your apartment, or maybe you want to divide the room into several parts.

Or maybe you have a need to build an arch or erect a wall from gypsum plasterboard (plasterboard sheets). It is also possible that you need to create separate rooms in a new building that you were recently lucky enough to move into. One way or another, you are looking for an answer to the question of how to make a plasterboard wall. Well. This is where you will get it.

Why drywall?

Before we figure out how to do it ourselves, I propose to consider one important issue. Very briefly. Why exactly gypsum board? Why is he so good? I have heard the opinion that this material is not the best for building a wall. Basically, this position is held by people of the “old school,” so to speak, who perceive plasterboard sheets as a purely finishing material.

But this is not entirely true. Yes, gypsum board is also used for finishing, but it is also very suitable as a material for building walls. Moreover, in many cases this is the only correct solution. So, why should you choose gypsum board? Now we will briefly name the main characteristics of this material so that you can cast aside all doubts:

• strength/durability. Walls built from gypsum plasterboard are no worse than those made from brickwork. Then you won’t swing a sledgehammer in your house or throw weights at the wall, right?
• unlimited scope for creativity. You can create absolutely anything from this material: you can design openings various sizes, ledges and niches, recreate other structurally expressed elements;
• health safety. The material is environmentally friendly and does not cause allergic reactions in the body;
• versatility/practicality. Plasterboard walls can be erected anywhere - in any part of the apartment or house, even in rooms with high humidity. There is a special one for this moisture resistant drywall, which can be bought at a regular hardware store;
• availability. GCR is not expensive building materials and has become an integral part of almost any repair;
• ease installation work. Yes, you will have to try, but if you know the sequence of actions you will have necessary tools, - then even a person who has no experience in repairs can handle the job.

I think we have made a fairly compelling case in favor of plasterboard sheets. In a word, gypsum board is an excellent material for zoning the space of a residential (and any other) premises.

What you need for work

In this section of our article we will find out what else, besides the plasterboard, we will need to complete the work. First of all, we need to build a frame from profiles, which will serve as the “skeleton” of our wall or pier.

As a rule, two types of profiles are used to build a wall:

• D - small profile. It is needed in order to form a plane on which it will subsequently be located;
• W - large profile. With its help, a frame is built.

In addition, for each of the main types presented there are:

• C - support profile;
• U - guide profile. In essence, this is a variation of the U-shaped profile.

As a result, we get the following combinations:

• CD - 60x27mm - this is the main element of the “skeleton”;
• UD - 28×27mm - CD guide;
• CW - 50×50/50×75/50×100mm - rack profile, the purpose of which is to form a frame;
• UW - 50×40/75×40/100×40mm - guide for CW;
• UA - 50x50/50x75/50x100mm - essentially the same CW, only additionally reinforced and more durable.

To build a wall up to 10 cm, only CW and UW should be used. If the wall needs to be more “serious”, if it is planned to lay communications into it, then you should resort to using CD and UD. On each side of the wall, two guides should be mounted, running parallel at the distance from each other that you previously outlined.

To secure the profile to the frame we will need a special hanger with a universal connector. Popularly, such a connector is called a “crab”. But sometimes you can do without it.

To fasten the frame elements, flea screws should be used. We will also need metal screws (3.5×35 mm, equipped with a countersunk head) to attach the gypsum board to installed frame. We will also need dowels (with self-tapping screws, of course) to secure our frame to the existing wall.

Now about the plasterboard sheets themselves. Sheets should be chosen with a thickness of 12.5 mm, and pay attention that there must be a wide chamfer on the sides. Let us remind you once again that if you are planning installation in premises with special conditions operation (in the bathroom, in the kitchen), then be sure (!) to choose moisture-resistant drywall. You can distinguish it from the usual one simply: its top coating has green color, while ordinary gypsum board is covered with gray cardboard.

So, let's roughly draw a line under everything that we said above in this section. We will need:

• actually, gypsum board;
• profiles CD/UA and UD or only CW and UW, if the thickness of the wall being erected does not exceed 10 cm;
• AU profile, which, however, can be replaced with wooden beams;
• fastenings (dowels/screws);
• sealing tape;
• metal corner;
• mineral wool to fill empty space.

Here we have listed the materials necessary for the work. Now here is a list of tools:

• building level;
• roulette;
• rope;
• plumb line;
• fishing line;
• rule;
• screwdriver/reverse drill;
• scissors for cutting metal;
• perforator;
• a plane for gypsum plasterboard (you will need it when you need to make a chamfer);
• durable knife with replaceable blades for cutting cardboard.

We have decided on building materials and tools. Now we should say something about what the floor and main wall should be like before starting installation work.

In short, the floor and wall should be, perhaps, without finishing. And so, they should already be ready. That is, the floor must be leveled using screed, OSB or another method, only without flooring. The walls should already be plastered, but without wallpaper.

Now that we have necessary knowledge, tools and building materials - we move on to considering the installation process.

Frame installation process

First, let's look at one common example: installing a “skeleton” wall from UW and CW profiles. The first thing to do is mark the wall on the floor. When marking, you should focus not on one wall, but on two, running parallel. The indicators should be averaged. This way you will have a chance to avoid critical curvature.

If you plan to screw drywall to all the walls, that is, to perform leveling using gypsum boards, then you should first achieve right angles after completing the sheathing of the main walls, and then start building the wall.

When you mark the first line, according to which our wall will be located, you should take into account that it will be the guide profile that will be aligned along it, and not the wall as such. Therefore, the thickness of the plasterboard sheet and all the finishing that will subsequently be applied to it should be added to the mark.

Only after you have marked a line on the floor can it be transferred to the walls/ceiling. A laser level will be very helpful in this matter. If you do not have this device in your “arsenal,” you can rent it at a hardware store that offers a tool rental service. Well, or borrow from a friend-comrade.

Now let's move on to installing the profiles. Keep in mind that those profiles that are attached to the main work surface(floor/wall/ceiling) must (!) be mounted with sealing tape. There's no other way to do this.

First you need to fix the guides on the ceiling and floor (UW). They should be mounted with dowels and self-tapping screws: firstly, every 0.5 m, secondly, along the edges, where the support posts (CW) will be fixed. But the racks are not only mounted at the edges of the UW rails. They should also be erected in those places where, for example, there will be a window, a passage or some other opening that matches the daring design concept.

It will be more convenient for you to install the profiles first at the bottom, then thread them into the upper guide and mount. Just mount it exclusively vertically, otherwise the wall will be crooked, and this is not part of our plans. The front side of the profile should be facing inside the opening. The racks are attached to the guides using “fleas” - self-tapping screws, which we mentioned in the list of necessary tools.

In addition to these screws with a strange name, we also mentioned the AU profile, alternative option which can serve wooden beams. So, it's time for AU. With the help of this profile (or beams) we strengthen our opening around the perimeter.

Now we need to mount the CW support profiles. The first one must be mounted at a distance of 550 mm from the main wall. The rest - in increments of 600 mm. In this case, verticality must be checked. To mark the upper boundary of a passage or the upper and lower boundary of a window opening, we use the UW profiles that are already familiar to us. In this case, the profile piece must be at least 30 cm longer than the width of the opening.

The profiles have side bends. So, on the front side of these folds you need to put marks 15 cm from each edge. And between these marks the distance should be equal to the width of our opening.

The side parts of the profiles must be cut strictly at 45°. You should start from the edge - to the mark - and to the very base. After the cuts are made, the edges of this profile need to be bent to create something like a U-shape.

We put the resulting U-shaped profile on the side posts of our opening. Then, accordingly, we adjust its height position. After the profile is set in its position, it must be secured with self-tapping screws. On the horizontal part of our profile we have formed so-called “ears”, which also need to be fixed. This is how we create the perimeter of the door/window opening.

If you succeeded, then congratulations! This completes the installation of the frame. Now it’s time to move on to the installation of direct sheathing, that is, to the installation of plasterboard sheets.

Installation of gypsum boards on an installed frame

The size of plasterboard sheets that can be found in hardware stores is standard:

• 1.2x2 m;
• 1.2×2.5 m;
• 1.2x3 m.

IN residential buildings ceilings are usually somewhat higher than 2 or 2.5 m. According to building standard, - the height of the ceilings in the apartments is at least 2.75 m. Accordingly, one whole sheet may not be enough for us. Therefore, you may have to add an additional strip. This could be some scrap or even several scraps. You will definitely have these as you work.

Initially, we should mount the sheet, which will be located close to the edge (that is, to the main wall). It is necessary to separate the chamfer from it, so along the entire length it is necessary to cut a strip ±4 cm wide.

For cutting plasterboard, a regular knife with replaceable blades, like the one shown in the photo below, is suitable:

At the same time, cutting gypsum boards in a canopy is prohibited! It must be placed on a flat and hard surface, and then marked with a pencil or marker along the lines along which the cut will be made. We cut through the top layer with a knife, and then we should move the sheet of drywall to the edge of our support strictly along the cut line, and then easily and carefully break off the excess.

Now we need to make a chamfer on the cut edge of the sheet. Now you may be wondering, “why make a bevel if we just cut it?” - the fact is that a special oblique chamfer has to be made in order to provide a technological (delatation) gap. What kind of gap this is and what its purpose is, we will not consider in detail now. We will limit ourselves to noting the following: this gap will help remove excess load from the plasterboard sheet after installation and application of all finishing materials (primer/putty/wallpaper/paint).

This is where we need a gypsum board plane. By the way, such a chamfer should be made not only along the length of the sheet adjacent to the wall, but also on that strip from a piece of plasterboard, due to which the height will be achieved (we remember that the height of one sheet may not be enough if the ceiling in the room is higher ). However, this strip for increasing the height can be mounted both at the top and at the bottom - whichever is more convenient for you.

To fix the gypsum board to the frame, we use self-tapping screws (3.5×35 mm). Initially, you should secure the sheet from the edges, and then along the middle line. Self-tapping screws should be placed in increments of ±15 cm. But (!) no more than 25 cm. The fastener caps should not be deeply “recessed” into plasterboard sheet, but under no circumstances should they stick around either.

By the way, gypsum boards should be fixed at a height of about 10 mm from the floor surface. This distance is called the delatation gap. We have already mentioned this. So, remember: the drywall should not fit closely to either the wall or the floor. And yes, there should also be a small distance between the sheets. Subsequently it will be puttied, but more on that later.

After you install the first sheet, you should measure the distance from the edge of this sheet to the ceiling (well, or the floor, because you can start attaching the sheet both from the floor and from the ceiling). According to the measurements, cut out the missing fragment, make a chamfer on it using a plane - and install it in place. We will mount those sheets that are not adjacent to the wall without a chamfer, so the plane can be put aside for now.

That is, in places where the sheets are adjacent to the walls/floor/ceiling and between these adjacent sheets this improvised chamfer must be present, and as for the remaining sheets, there should only be a technological (delatation) gap between them, but without a chamfer . We will open up these joints when we start puttingty/primer. But now it’s better not to occupy your bright head with this.

Drywall sheets must be installed exclusively in a checkerboard pattern. In other words: if you mounted the first sheet from the floor, and then took the missing piece to the ceiling, then the next one - on the contrary - mount it from the ceiling and take the missing piece of gypsum board to the floor. This is how you sheathe the frame on one side. Now let's talk about how to lay the wire to install a socket/switch or conduct other important communications.

Laying communications

Communications should be laid after the sheathing of the wall frame on one side is completed. Essentially, there is nothing super complicated here. But if you have not dealt with electricity before, it is better to resort to the services of an electrician.

But preparing a frame for laying wires is definitely within your power. To do this, you need to drill holes in the rack profiles with a diameter of approximately 3.5 cm. To avoid damage to the wires, you should bend the edges of this hole to one side. And don't forget to use corrugated pipe. This is your own safety.

Installation of sound insulation

As soundproofing material Mineral wool (mineral wool) is usually used. Without soundproofing, the wall will be hollow inside, so any sound from the next room will reach the next one without encountering any barriers. When installing the wall, you should also use filler.

For these purposes, we will use rolled cotton wool. The one that is sold in bales can also, of course, be suitable, but it will not be very convenient to work with. If the width of the roll is 1.2 m, then it must be cut in half lengthwise. With a width of 0.6 m, there is no need to cut lengthwise.

The material should be placed tightly between the rack profiles. At the same time, we have absolutely no need for gaps. There is no need to fix it with glue or anything else. If the action takes place where there is a risk of moisture getting inside the wall (which is extremely undesirable), then you can install horizontal lintels made of wood. In addition, if there is a risk of moisture ingress, the internal space of the partition/wall must be ventilated.

Completion of installation work/how to finish plasterboard walls

We cover the other side of the wall in the same way as the first, and then the ends should be made. The joints of the sheets during finishing must be glued using serpyanka. Then using starting putty these depressions are completely leveled out and compared with common plane. The finishing putty helps to eliminate the places where the screws were screwed in. The corners of a door/window opening or other structurally expressed elements (say, the corners of niches or decorative projections) should be additionally reinforced with a metal corner.

Do I need to prime the walls before wallpapering? Purely technically, the drywall is perfectly flat, so you can safely cover it with wallpaper. But, nevertheless, there is one curious point: when the need arises to remove this wallpaper in order to paste new ones (in about 10–15 years), it will be impossible to tear off this wallpaper from the drywall without damaging the drywall itself. Regardless of what wallpaper glue you used. They will simply stick tightly. To avoid this, the surface of the wall should still be primed. The primer will not interfere with the wallpaper adhering to the wall, but if next renovation tearing them off will be much easier - this way you will save the wall. By the way, before painting the walls (say, with water-based paint), priming the surface will also not be superfluous.

Priming/puttying plasterboard walls is a fairly broad topic that deserves detailed coverage in a separate article. But to ensure that the material presented is as comprehensive and useful as possible for you, here we are general outline Let's talk about what gypsum board putty/primer is. Let's look at this process step by step:

1. It is necessary to prepare the wall for applying primer. This means that using the same knife with replaceable blades at an angle of about 45°, it is necessary to cut the joints. At the same time, do not be afraid to remove excess - this will not spoil the wall, but will only contribute to correct application finishing materials.
2. Let's move on to priming work. The wall may need to be primed several times. First, you should treat the joints, as well as the places where the screws are screwed in and the places where the plasterboard is adjacent to the main walls/floor/ceiling. At the same time, we have the right not to treat its “native” seams with a primer. This is not at all necessary.
3. If there are places where the gypsum board is damaged for some reason, that is, for example, scratched, this place, of course, must be carefully primed.

To visually familiarize yourself with the gypsum board priming process, watch the video below:

As was said in the video, it is not necessary to prime all the drywall. And it is true. But as for putty, the question remains open. But don't worry. Now we will explain it properly. So, we will need:

• wide and narrow spatulas;
• knife with replaceable blades;
• drill mixer;
• bucket. It is better if the bucket is not plastic, but metal. This is purely for reliability, because a plastic one may not withstand the blows of a merciless mixer, and then the putty mixture will end up on the floor and not on the wall, where it belongs.

• We glue sickle tape to all the “original” seams and along the perimeter (excluding the floor). At the same time, there is no need to glue the tape to the seams that we cut with a knife;
• prepare the putty mixture according to the instructions on the package;
• Using a wide spatula, we begin to apply the mixture to the seams and places where the screws are screwed in. We need a narrow spatula to remove the mixture from the container. At the same time, you should not put too much pressure on the sickle tape, otherwise you may damage it;
• We leave our wall for about a day. At a temperature of 18–20°C, the first layer will dry out during this time;
• We proceed to applying the second layer according to the same principle. If you got to work not the next day, but, say, a week later, then it is better to prime the surface again, since during this time 100% of dust has gotten onto the wall, which will 100% prevent good adhesion (adhesion of the applied mixture with work surface);
• If you intend to glue wallpaper to the wall, then, nevertheless, it is worth priming and puttying the entire surface. We mentioned above that wallpaper will stick too well to unputtyed plasterboard. So good that during the next renovation it will be simply impossible to remove them without damaging the sheets of drywall.

To learn how to putty drywall, watch the video below:

We won’t talk about how to paint walls and how to glue wallpaper in this article - it already turned out to be quite voluminous and, I hope, informative. In addition, the site contains a separate article about water-based paint. And don’t be confused by the fact that it’s about ceilings. In fact, painting a gypsum board ceiling is not fundamentally different from painting walls made of the same material. Except, of course, that Painting works carried out in different planes. The proposed article examines in detail not only the painting process, but also provides arguments in favor of the “water-based emulsion” and gives practical recommendations on the choice of tools (in particular, the main painting tool- roller).

Thank you very much for your attention, dear reader. I hope that the information presented was really useful to you, and you will want to visit our cozy repair and construction portal again. Until we meet again, good luck in all your endeavors!

P.S. Here is a video that shows the process of constructing a plasterboard partition: