I bought adenium in buds, but the flower never bloomed, why? How often does it bloom? Thank you. Adenium, care, cultivation and other tips and questions The role of the flower container in the flowering of adenium

For an adult plant, even in very good shape, this is normal. As the trunk grows, it is freed from excess leaves, they dry out and die. If the leaves dry out very much, the cause may be unbalanced soil.

Attention! A common mistake is adding coconut fiber to the soil mixture yourself.

Often this fiber is of low quality and is enriched with sea salts. Exactly An excess of minerals in the soil causes health problems for adenium. The solution in this case will be to transplant the plant into newly purchased balanced soil, manufactured in a factory.

The tips of the leaves wither

Why do the tips of the leaves dry out? A similar problem affects almost all young adeniums in the off-season. Tips lower leaves dry out while new foliage appears on the crown. This is how the plant reacts to changes in temperature. In this situation, it is recommended to increase the temperature.

Turns yellow

Why do the leaves turn yellow? There may be two reasons for this phenomenon:

Falls off

It happens that adenium does not bloom and drops its leaves. If this happens in the fall and the number of dried and fallen leaves is small, then this is the norm for adenium. If this happens before the start of the dormant period, there may be several reasons for the shedding of leaves:

1. The plant is planted in unsuitable soil. The problem is solved by transplantation.
2. Incorrect pruning of the plant. When pruning, you need to focus on the size of the caudex. The procedure is only permissible if it is wide enough (you can read how to correctly form the caudex of adenium and what to do if it dries and withers, and we talked about how and when to trim adenium at home).
3. The plant may not have enough moisture. The solution will be competent regulation of watering.
4. Foliage may fall if adenium is abruptly transferred from warm room in cold weather or he stood for some time in a draft.

It loses its variegation

Why does the variegation on the leaves disappear? If adenium begins to grow completely green leaves, there may be four reasons:

1. Lack of lighting.
2. General weakening of the plant.
3. Excess nitrogen fertilizing.
4. Degeneration (return from mutation to the original form).

For the first three reasons enough to adjust . In the case of the last problem, nothing can be changed. The mutation process may, on the contrary, intensify and the plant will begin to grow exclusively white leaves. This is dangerous for the flower and can lead to its death. But The appearance of just a few white leaves should not be a cause for concern. Normally, this happens after pruning or in the spring and summer. By autumn the leaves will turn green.

Round spots

The reason for this type of adenium disease lies in high humidity air. The disease is fungal and after the leaves it attacks the caudex of the plant. The solution would be preventative treatment with fungicides twice a season.

Burns

If brown spots appear on the plant, this is sunburn. Despite the fact that the homeland of adenium is a desert, it needs to be accustomed to the bright sun gradually. If a burn is received, it will go away slowly and will disappear only after the leaves are renewed.

If the humidity of the soil and air is very high, adenium can get a bacterial burn. Outwardly, it is very similar to solar, but control methods include collecting affected leaves, treating with an antiseptic and measures to improve the soil.

Improving soil health includes treating it with special bactericidal agents.

Pests

Mealybug

An insect that lives in leaf axils. It affects young shoots, foliage and buds. Signs of damage are:

• White, waxy, cotton-like coating.
• Sugary discharge in case of long-term illness.

Adenium stops growing and begins to experience problems with flowering. Severe defeat leads to death.

Fighting methods:

1. If the disease is in its early stages, the plant can be treated soap solution, cleaning off the scale insects and their secretions. In the future it is necessary to carry out preventive treatments weak soap or alcohol solution.
2. Spray the plants with special preparations in accordance with the instructions. Repeat the treatment weekly.

IMPORTANT! The older the larvae, the more difficult it will be to rehabilitate the plant.

Bedbugs

Sucking insects that appear on pods with adenium seeds and seriously damage them. Treatment with special preparations helps in this case. A mustard solution may also help. Dissolve 100 grams of dry powder in ten liters and spray the plant damaged by pests every three days.

Caterpillars

They may appear on adenium due to transfer from other plants. This often happens when keeping a flower on outdoors in summer time.

Small caterpillars or their larvae light green color and, often, are poorly distinguishable from the foliage of the plant. The insect eats holes in the leaves, and the growth of adenium slows down.

As a control measure, it is necessary to manually collect all the caterpillars from the flower and destroy them, and treat severely affected areas with insecticides.

Aphid

A sign of damage is curling leaves. If such a symptom appears, you should examine reverse side leaves. Aphids are very noticeable. Its larvae look like gray-green insects.

Easily destroyed. It is enough to carry out one treatment with any specialized drug.

Coccids

Common name for scale insects, false scale insects and scale insects. Sucking insects that damage leaves and shoots of plants. Coccids secrete thick sticky substances covered with a black, sooty coating. It is better to fight them at the larval stage.

Adult insects are covered with “shields” and are more resistant to various kinds drugs. Most often, adenium suffers from root insects, since the pest prefers dry, breathable soils.

Reference! The root bug feeds on sap from the roots, injecting them with a substance that negatively affects the plant. The leaves of the affected adenium fade, and the roots become covered with a white coating.

The following measures can save the flower:

1. Treating the soil with special preparations (Dantop, Mospilian, Aktara). Most effective method, since the mealybug larvae are covered with a difficult-to-permeate cocoon, which only chemicals can destroy.
2. Root hot bath:
   • Place adenium in hot (+55 degrees) water and hold for 15-20 minutes. Then dry for 20 hours.
   • Remove the flower from the pot along with the earthen lump.
   • Clean the roots from the soil and rinse thoroughly.
   • Cut off all affected areas of the root system.
   • Wash the roots with insecticide.
   • Plant in a new pot and fresh substrate.

Photo

And this is what the pests look like in the photo:

Diseases and other problems

The flower doesn't grow

Why doesn't the flower grow and what to do about it? Most often this happens in low light during the rest period. You can fix the problem by adjusting your care:

• organize a long daylight hours for the plant - 12-14 hours;
• eliminate the absence of drafts;
• maintain soil looseness;
• the pot for adenium should not be too spacious.

Why does it drop buds?

This is caused by stress (most often cold weather) associated with changes in living conditions during budding.

Maximum care should be taken for the plant during the period of bud set.

We talked about how to make adenium bloom at home.

Rotting

Adenium rotting is promoted low temperature and high humidity. The top of the plant begins to dry out and the leaves fall off. For prevention, watering should be limited to winter period and in cloudy weather.

What to do if the flower is rotten? The following steps will help you get rid of rot:

Recommendation! Minimum permissible temperature for indoor keeping of adenium +10 degrees. It is also necessary to take into account that when pruned, the flower releases poisonous juice. It should be blotted with a napkin, and all work with the plant should be done with gloves.

The branches are drying up

Due to the slow movement of juice. Having discovered a similar phenomenon on adenium, the main thing is not to cut off the dried areas - this will not help. A treatment option would be to completely coat the plant with a mixture of tetracycline and foundation and water it with stimulants. Adenium should be in bright sun.

Healthy adenium pleases the eye with abundant flowering, bright foliage and a strong trunk. Even on minimal care this flower reacts with gratitude, maintaining an excellent decorative appearance all year round.

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Adenium grows in a pot with a diameter of 20 cm. Soil mixture: humus, peat, black soil, vermiculite. Watering - as the earthen clod dries out. It is on the south window.

It produces buds, but they turn black and dry out. Please help me with advice. It’s good that the flower is on a southern windowsill - it has enough light to bloom. In many other plants, the buds often dry out due to low humidity and dry air, but it’s not for nothing that adenium is called the “desert rose”; I think it’s not a matter of humidity.

In my opinion, the plant is planted in too nutritious a mixture. Peat, humus, chernozem - rich components organic substances. This is too much for adenium. With such a soil mixture, the watering regime may be disrupted. The soil becomes compacted and becomes impenetrable, and as a result, the roots of the plant suffer.
I advise you to transplant the flower (preferably in spring) into the mixture leaf soil, vermiculite and fine expanded clay. I usually use succulent soil, vermiculite and fine expanded clay.

When replanting, pay attention to the condition of the roots. In such a light, breathable mixture, adenium will have to be watered frequently. IN summer heat- in about a day. And, of course, for abundant flowering it is necessary to provide the plant with winter rest. Moreover, as I noticed from personal experience, adenium can also shed buds due to the presence of pests on it, rotation of the plant during flowering relative to the light, or irregular watering.

The age of the plant should also be taken into account. I had a 2.5-year-old seedling that dropped its buds for two summers in a row. The flowers bloomed only the third time. I think the point was that he simply did not have enough strength to bloom. Additional questions immediately arise. When was it: summer, autumn?

How long did adenium grow in the apartment? Was there a sudden change in conditions of detention? If adenium grows in a well-lit window at a temperature above +25 degrees, and is about to bloom, it needs nutrients and timely watering. Especially in summer. If the plant is underwatered, it may begin to drop buds.

If the soil, on the contrary, is too wet, not only buds, but also leaves will begin to fall. The same will happen with a sharp drop in air temperature and in drafts. I am still more inclined to believe that the room has dry air, warmth, and insufficient watering and no fertilizers.

In general, watering adenium should be approached very carefully. It directly depends on the composition of the soil. Maybe there is a lot of peat in the soil mixture, and the soil dries out quickly?

Then, if there are no pests or rots on the plant, the caudex is dense, without soft areas, the leaves do not turn yellow or crumble, and the adenium looks healthy in appearance - water more often, but little by little, adding a small amount of fertilizer to the water. But only if the plant is about to bloom.

With a lack of lighting, adenium can also drop flowers without opening them.
If adenium was purchased already with buds and transplanted into new soil, from a sharp change in conditions of detention, it can also shed buds, but with good lighting adapts quite quickly.

If you bought a plant in the fall, you need to replant it in fresh soil, remove the buds, trim the shoots by 1/3 and water very moderately at first, allowing the soil to dry.

It is necessary to remove flowers so that the plant gains strength and adapts to new conditions. Because in the fall, without additional lighting, it is difficult to achieve full summer flowering.

Why do buds and flowers fall off?

Very often we ask the question: “Why do buds or flowers fall off?” The fall of buds or flowers can be caused by dry air, poor lighting, excess nitrogen, or moving the plant from one place to another. Most often it can be a consequence of a lack of light and moisture, as well as exposure to cold air. Majority indoor plants resistant to cold, but not frost. Sudden drop in temperature warm room or dry cold cause many problems.
Let's consider the reasons for the fall of buds and flowers according to the most famous and common indoor flowers:
- Azalea - during the period of flowering and budding, the plant cannot be moved from place to place or rotated (even the slightest change in the refraction of rays can lead to the buds falling off). The fall of buds is also affected by drafts and very high air temperatures in the summer.
- Adenium - may drop buds due to the presence of pests on it, rotation of the plant during flowering relative to the light, and irregular watering. If there is insufficient lighting, it can drop flowers without opening them.
- Achimenes – with the appearance of the first buds you need to apply mineral fertilizer once every 2 weeks. An annual spring replanting into nutritious soil is also necessary.
- Balsam - by dropping buds, it most likely reacts to short-term drying of the substrate. This could also be due to lack of nutrition, temperature changes, too much large quantity buds - the plant cannot feed all of them and discards some of them - this is called self-regulation, and for many other reasons. If the buds do not bloom, there may be several reasons: lack of light, lack of nutrition, excess nutrition, too low a temperature, drying out of the soil, dry air or replanting.
- Begonia - bud drop can be caused by water getting on them, dry air or insufficient watering.
- Gardenia – during the period of bud and flower formation, the plant does not tolerate temperature fluctuations. Irregular watering causes the buds to drop. Sometimes there is a massive fall of buds, which depends on dry air, drying out the soil in the pot, and a drop in temperature of less than 16 degrees. The buds may not open during long periods of cloudy weather. During the period of budding and flowering, it is not advisable to rotate the plant.
- Hibiscus (Chinese rose) – during budding and flowering, the hibiscus should not be rearranged, moved or turned, as this will cause the buds or flowers to fall off.

- Gloxinia (sinninginia) – there may be several reasons for the buds to fall off. When the tuber is healthy, good large leaves and buds fall off from lack of nutrition for them. Give a comprehensive mineral fertilizing containing microelements (“Flower”, Sudarushka” or others). Spray the air around with water, but not the flowers and leaves. Do not allow the earthen clod to dry out or drafts. Hybrid Gloxinias are more demanding temperature conditions(it should not be lower than 17 °C).
- Zygocactus (Decembrist, Schlumbergera) - the plant sheds buds or parts of segments on the leaves when the temperature is too low, insufficient watering, moved to a new location, excess fertilizer, damage by pests or diseases, and it is also necessary to check the roots.
- Camellia – at high temperatures there is a risk of buds falling off. And also when plants in the budding phase are moved to another place (changes in light conditions affect).
- Medinilla - With a lack of light, medinilla may not bloom or drop flowers. During flowering or budding, do not turn or rearrange the pot.

- Orchid - sometimes sheds buds. There can be many reasons for this behavior. Check to see if you have overwatered or dried out the roots? Have you gotten too carried away with fertilizers? Was the room smoky? Was there a sudden change in temperature, cold air from somewhere? Isn't it hot in the room?
- Roses do not tolerate dry air and high temperatures, especially in winter, this causes the leaves to become smaller, dry out and crumble, buds do not form or flowering does not last long.
- Fuchsia - violation of the watering regime, insufficient lighting, too warm air or moving the flowerpot.

This is the most difficult time for our ward. Theoretically, a dormant period begins when the leaves completely or partially fall off, and watering should be greatly reduced. Why theoretically? Because the conditions on our windowsills are far from natural. In addition, some believe that for normal growth and abundant flowering of adeniums it is necessary to observe a period of rest, some say that this is desirable, and some say that it is not at all necessary.

Let's figure it out.

The dormant period in some species of adenium can be complete (A. boehmianum and A. multiflorum) or partial, when shoot growth only stops (A. somalense), but the leaves are preserved. Some species bloom for the first time during dormancy (A. somalense, A. multiflorum), and if there is not enough light (and in our country in the fall and winter, of course, it is not enough), then flowering will not happen.

In nature, the resting period of adenium obesum (A. obesum) lasts several months. If you can keep it dry and cool, then so be it. But it’s often warm on our window sills (except for extreme winter days), therefore the dormant period in the culture will be very short, and the leaves may fall only partially or not at all. And if you also provide lighting, the plant can even bloom, although usual time Adeniums bloom in our latitudes in summer and early autumn.

This is what the “change of seasons” looks like in practice for adeniums on window sills. In spring and summer, the temperature ranges from 22 to 35°C (adeniums like it best around 30°C). With decreasing daylight hours and a drop in temperature to 16-20°C, growth slows down. In this case, some of the foliage may turn yellow and fall off (adenium itself tells you that it wants to rest). At this time, you should significantly reduce watering and stop fertilizing. At temperatures below 15°C, adeniums begin a dormant period. IN winter time It is recommended to keep it at a temperature of 10-15°C. Please note that the temperature should not fall below 10°C. Adult adeniums can withstand a temperature drop of up to + 4°C with an absolutely dry earthen coma, but it is better not to risk it. If the apartment is warm even in winter, do not stop watering. Of course, you need to water less than in summer, but how much less - only you can determine for yourself, focusing on the temperature on your windowsill. Take into account the age of your adenium - mature plant will withstand at 10-15°C for a long time without watering at all, but hardly a seedling.

And further important point. The first watering after a long dry period can be very dangerous - the plant has completely fallen asleep, all processes have slowed down, and here we are with our “care”. Even a small amount of water is fatal for an unawakened adenium.

P.S. We need to stop watering it. Stop its growth. Let the leaves fall. In the spring, after thorough pruning, it will begin to produce new leaves and buds. Keep warm for now. The main thing is that the earthen lump is not cold. All the best.

When I bought adenium in the summer, almost all of its buds fell off except for the 2 largest ones, which were already ready to open. Apparently due to changing conditions

And now yours won’t bloom until spring