Favorite flowers. Lawn grass is an ideal option against weeds in the country

A clean, smooth lawn that looks like emerald velvet, especially if it is emphasized abundantly flowering shrubs, evokes a feeling of aristocracy and leisurely summer bliss. But what do you do about the weeds that make their way through your carefully manicured lawn? Is there such a lawn grass, such a cereal beauty, that itself destroys the weeds that the gardener hates? From this material you will learn the names of wonderful herbs, look at them in the photo, and to make it easier to choose, reviews and a training video are attached to the article.

Where do weeds come from on the lawn?

We will classify as weeds all those plants whose seeds we did not sow when we started the lawn. These are sow thistle, wheatgrass, dandelion, plantain - hardy wild plants, able to withstand trampling, flooding, drought and other troubles much better than lawn grass.

They appear on the lawn in two ways:

• seeds are blown by the wind from adjacent areas or stick to the soles of shoes while you are walking somewhere, and then fall off when you walk at least along the edge of the area;
• sprout from seeds or remains of rhizomes, which remain viable in the soil for a long time.

There is no point in fighting the wind, but the second path is completely under human control.

Preparing the soil for the lawn is the basis for weed control

In order for lawn grass to crowd out weeds, there must initially be few of them. If we sow grass seeds without properly preparing the soil, the weeds will sprout earlier, and from the rhizomes. They will have a head start in vitality and they themselves will kill the lawn, settling on land that is very fertile for them.

Carefully remove weeds before seeding your lawn

The area for the lawn should begin to be prepared at the end of August. The work will be built from the following stages.

1. The soil is dug up, simultaneously leveled and carefully freed from debris, stones, and old grass. If the soil is sandy, then it is better to dig with a fork: they perfectly pick up the rhizomes of weeds and almost completely pull them to the surface. In heavy soil, the rhizomes will inevitably be chopped into pieces by a shovel or the working parts of a motor cultivator.
2. They wait for the weeds to sprout and insidiously treat them with a herbicide, for example, the commercially available Tornado. At this time, the movement of nutritious juices from the rhizomes into the growing leaves occurs in the plant stems. This flow carries the herbicide with it, and the weeds are completely killed. They should be removed along with the pieces of rhizomes from which they grew.
3. If over the next 2-3 weeks particularly resistant specimens emerge from the ground, they can already be pulled out by hand. Then, during the second digging, add fertilizer and calmly wait for spring.

In autumn, only organic fertilizers (manure) and phosphorus-potassium are applied. Ammonium nitrate and others - exclusively in the spring. These are highly soluble substances; with autumn rains and spring floods they will completely go into the deep layers of the soil.

How lawn grass kills weeds

Good lawn grass requires: special requirements. She must be:

• short: it won’t have to be cut as often;
• resistant to trampling: you can allow children to run on it and even play football;

A quality lawn can withstand active games and picnics

• drought-resistant: a broken sprinkler or urgent business in the city during a drought will not destroy it;
• dense: in this case, the owner will be practically free from weeding.

Let's take a closer look at the last property. Of course, grass itself does not destroy weeds, that is, it does not release any herbicide substances into the soil that can stop chemical reactions exchange in the body of another plant. Due to its short stature, it cannot even kill the weed by shielding it from the sun.

The mechanism of action of lawn grass on weeds is different. These herbs are fast-growing rhizomatous perennials with short internodes. Daughter plants from frequently located buds grow in such a way that a turf is formed - a dense interweaving of roots, rhizomes, stems and lumps of soil. For someone outside - a dandelion or a mountain grass - breaking through the turf is the same as through stone or glass.

So it turns out that if some weed seed wakes up and stretches upward, then the lawn grass will not allow it to see the sun. And if the seed was carried by the wind and, despite everything, hatched, then the roots, which are still weak, will not be able to reach the soil. The turf allows neither up nor down.

Choosing the right grass

If we want to minimize hand weeding, the seeds for sowing the lawn must be carefully selected. The mixture that will have to fight weeds on its own should include:

Mix several varieties of grass for your lawn

• meadow bluegrass is an excellent base for a mixture, but it cannot cope alone;
• bentgrass forms a dense carpet and is characterized by increased winter hardiness;
• red fescue will quickly fill all the “voids” in the young lawn;
• ryegrass produces high density, but you need to be prepared for the fact that middle lane he often freezes out.

If you haven't found ready mixture on sale, make it yourself by purchasing equal quantities seeds of these types of herbs. Externally, these grasses are of the same type, it will be difficult to distinguish them from one another, so you don’t have to worry about the uniform greenness of the lawn.

Advice. Surprise your wife or daughters by adding some daisy seeds to your herbs. Children really like their funny “faces”.

Helping the grass fight off strangers

Knowing that the main “weapon” of lawn grasses in the fight against weeds is the density of green mass, it must first be created and then constantly maintained.

To create dense sowings, it is optimal to use a manual seeder. In the absence of such a tool, the seeds are scattered manually in two passes: first along the plot, then across it. Then, with light movements of the rake, they are embedded into the soil. Experienced gardeners They also press them into the ground with a roller. This allows the seeds to come into better contact with moist soil and germinate more easily.

When the grass grows, its density is maintained in two ways:

• timely cutting will cause sleeping buds to wake up, which has a positive effect on the density of sowing;
• bald spots that form after overwintering must be sown with fresh seeds.

Nature does everything itself, including regulating the numbers of various species, and you can always help it. At proper care and lawn grass can save a gardener from contemplating weeds in the middle of a green lawn.

How to sow a lawn: video

Lawn at a summer cottage: photo

Tatyana Zyubina Category: 9 comments

Plants are helpers. Part 2. Weed control

Let's continue the conversation about helper plants. The previous article talked about enriching the soil with oxygen, nitrogen, etc. In this article we continue to get acquainted with useful plants......

Every gardener wants his garden to look beautiful and well-groomed. But for this you have to constantly do weeding. Weeds thrive where there is free space. And it is better to adhere to the main rule: the soil should not remain bare. For this purpose, there are, for example, mulching or denser planting of plants, which close together over time, suppressing the growth of weeds.

Green manure plants very quickly develop a dense green mass, without giving any chance for weeds to grow between them. Mustard and phacelia especially stand out for this property. Plantings of lupine or marigolds, which do not germinate so quickly, should be weeded until a dense green mass is formed.

Cuff grows in sun or partial shade. It is very hardy and decorative from spring to frost. It's easy to get a lot planting material from seeds.

Khosta grows in sun, partial shade or shade, height 20–50 cm. If the plantings are dense enough, the hosta will not allow weeds to develop under its leaves. Compositions from different varieties hostas form beautiful transitions of textures and shades. The only negative is that it wakes up a little late in the spring, but you can plant small-bulbous plants around (the host does not interfere with their growth), and the area will not be bare.

Dicentra exceptional blooms from May to early July, is unpretentious to the soil (as long as it is not a swamp) and combines very beautifully with hosts.

This also includes vines and herbaceous perennials, shrubs and conifers of prostrate forms. They vary in light, soil and moisture requirements; They can be very short and tall. But they are united by the ability to create dense ground carpet. Actively growing, they gradually crowd out weeds, even such ones, not too bad, right? But in order for groundcovers to fulfill their task, you need to prepare the soil and carefully select plants for specific conditions.

sedum blooms even on poor soils and does not need fertilizers. In general, my friend is not bad, especially for areas with poor soil. Take note! Oh, an idea, if you want to plant another plant next to it, it is better to do it with a limiter so that the sedum does not “claim” the territory of your plant!

Caustic sedum

In dry, sunny places or slopes with poor sandy soil Thyme, chickweed, low-growing carnations, subulate phlox, various sedums, small-leaved and New Zealand acena, and cat's paw grow well.

In partial shade, speckled yaerysma looks good with silver leaves. Wallsteinia, tenacious, periwinkles, and Julia's primrose grow in a dense carpet. In the spring, as soon as the snow melts, fragrant violets bloom under the treetops. Its purple flowers combine with yellow-flowered primroses to form very colorful carpets.

Fragrant violet

From more tall grow well under trees pachysandra,mountain weed, tiarella cordifolia. A dense carpet, even in heavily shaded areas, forms evergreen hoof(found in the forest).

Kopyten

On open areas Badan is good. Handsome!

For shaded wet places will fit perfectly coin loosestrife And Duchesnea indica. By the way, in coin merbeinik, planted among large perennials, will not cause harm, but alpine slide he is not welcome guest, because, growing rapidly, it begins to oppress its neighbors.

Monetary loosestrife

Important: Some of the groundcovers are quite aggressive, and what is good in controlling weeds can be a problem in other cases (sedum, creeping weed).

In narrow cracks, between the tiles of the paths, you can plant rough kotula.

creeping thyme

Many low-growing groundcovers can be used as turf replacements where turf grasses do not thrive. The aggressive ones will have to be restrained!

All of the plants listed are just not most of this wonderful group.

When choosing plants, it is better to think through everything in advance. And then ground cover from the category of helpers is not

And now about some other ways to control weeds.

I think, of course, it’s better to start fighting weeds in the spring, as soon as shoots appear - weed while the shoots are young. Also treat with herbicides in the spring. Weeding is the most effective and labor-intensive method. It is better to use a pitchfork so as not to break the root if you missed the plant and it is already large. Plucking flower stalks to prevent the weed from sprouting seeds is the best limiter for weed growth. If in the spring the flower stalks were successfully removed and the seeds could not get into the ground, then in the fall it will be easy to deal with it by planting helper plants. And all cut and dug up weeds must be immediately removed from the garden, because some of them are able to take root again - purslane, chickweed, etc.
Weed control in the garden should be carried out systematically and regularly, and not from time to time.
You should weed not only the beds, but also areas near fences, paths and agricultural buildings.

If you didn’t have time in the spring, then autumn is the time to get rid of from weeds. A covering material that does not allow water, air and light to pass through is another assistant in the fight against weed. Black film, linoleum, roofing felt, slate, etc. can be placed along paths and buildings on the site.

After you have removed all the vegetables from the garden bed, burned the tops, pulled out the remaining weeds and turned over the soil, cover the area under the beds with cardboard. Secure with boards or bricks so that the autumn winds do not blow away the “blanket”. This will prevent fallen seeds from hatching due to lack of light and prevent wind-borne seeds from taking root. Cardboard allows moisture to pass through, so that the ground is saturated with rain and melted snow in the spring. This does not apply to planting winter crops! Well, for example, the photo below shows an approximate shelter from weeds.

In the spring, after the snow melts, the soil is quietly warmed by the rays of the sun. When planting seedlings, you simply carefully make a hole and plant them in the soil.

This method, of course, is not durable, the paper will rot, but it is simple and enough for the season. Besides, when the weeds start to grow, most of the work will be done and you can calmly get started to be deleted appeared weed. And as soon as they appear, treat them sheet by sheet with a solution: half a glass of vinegar, half a glass of salt and a couple of spoons of dish soap or household soap. Only use fine-grained salt, dissolve a little with soap in a large amount hot water. The salt won’t dissolve in the vinegar and the spray bottle will clog (by the way, I didn’t spray it with coarse salt). Is there another way to apply this solution to the weeds? I did it using a bottle with holes in the lid, and within a week the weeds dried out on their own. Only in dry weather.

Mulching too good way weed control . If you have managed to control the weed in the garden bed, then it is better to mulch the space between the rows of the beds and flower beds. You can plant lawn grasses - they also conquer the territory well and prevent weeds from establishing themselves. Even the tractor doesn't pick up some weeds. The seeds then fall off. This means eliminating flowering is the first method of control; the second is weeding; the third is herbicides.

Folk remedies for weed control:

Vinegar. Pour into a spray bottle and spray the weeds. Just don't get caught cultivated plants.
Salt. Sprinkle salt around the weeds and around the garden beds.
Mulch. Any covering material, newspapers, cardboard, roofing felt between the beds. Agrospan, spunbond, etc. on the beds. Sawdust, wood chips, and bark are also suitable.
Soap. Mix household soap, salt and vinegar in equal proportions and spray the weeds.
They say alcohol also helps. Mix with water 1:10 and cultivate the soil before planting (a month in advance!)

HERBICIDES:
Roundup.
A common continuous-action preparation, a systemic herbicide. Affects young shoots and leaves, has weak soil activity.
Tornado.
A drug with a wide spectrum of action. It treats the above-ground part of the plant, then, once through the stems and leaves, it spreads and enters root system, and the weed dies entirely. Treatment with this drug gives excellent results to fight even such malicious aggressors as wheatgrass, pigweed, bindweed, and reed.
Hurricane Forte.
Post-emergence, non-selective herbicide. It is used for the complete elimination of perennial and annual weeds.
Glyphos.
An aqueous solution whose main component is glyphosate. Blocks the synthesis of amino acids in the plant, thereby preventing it from developing.

Well, that's all for now! Good luck to everyone in the fight! If you want to know in detail about any topic that interests you, write in the comments. I will be happy to dig through my notes and memory cells, find useful information for you and make a photo selection!!!

Regards, Tatiana!

Weeds in perennial plantings are a disaster. When they are tightly intertwined with garden plants, only complete excavation of both can help. But there are among ground cover plants and such fighters who do not surrender territory.

Take a closer look at the perennials from your collection: some of them are armed with dense leaves located low above the ground, under which any sprouts will die out in the summer. Others strangle strangers with a thick net. Such plants usually need only the first year, and there is no need to carefully select from the soil - what could not be pulled out gradually weakens and dies.

Chinese (Astilbe chinensis)

Sun or partial shade, height 30 cm. The most weed-resistant type of astilbe - it braids the soil with short rhizomes. Blooms from mid-June to early August, the foliage is beautiful all season.

(Bergenia)

Sun, partial shade or shade, height 30 cm. All types and varieties of bergenia are good. It blooms in May, the foliage is beautiful until deep frost. Bergenia is amazingly unpretentious - one might say, it grows without care.

magnificent (Geranium x magnificum)

Sun or partial shade, height 60 cm. Geranium blooms magnificently in mid-summer, when most perennials take a break. Doesn't get sick, doesn't need care. Her relatives geranium macrorhizome, blood-red geranium, Himalayan geranium- also reliably resist weeds.

Pachysandra terminalis

Partial shade or shade, height 30 cm. At first after planting pachysandra, it may seem that it is not taking root well. Don't pay attention, water it - and everything will be fine. From the second year, pachysandra forms dense evergreen thickets. Beautiful leaves, flowers inconspicuous. Does not like too heavy soil.

(Alchemilla)

Sun or partial shade, height 40 cm. The cuff is very hardy, decorative from spring to frost. It is easy to get a lot of planting material from seeds.

grandiflora (Betonica grandiflora)

Sun or partial shade, height 40 cm. Initial flower blooms in mid-summer and does not lose its decorative effect until frost. You can immediately obtain a lot of planting material for a border or an array by propagating the plant by cuttings.

(Hosta)

Sun, partial shade or shade, height 20-50 cm. Compositions from different varieties of hosta form beautiful transitions of textures and shades. The only negative is that it wakes up a little late in the spring, but you can plant small-bulbous plants around (the host does not interfere with their growth), and the area will not be bare.

cory-leaf (Aruncus aethusifolius)

Sun or partial shade, height 25 cm. Volzhanka blooms for more than a month from late May to early July, and its reddish fruits are decorative even after flowering. Propagates well by seeds.

Loosestrife (Lysimachia nummularia)

Sun or partial shade, height 3 cm. For such a small plant it has phenomenal resistance to weeds. Until the loosestrife covers the entire surface, the weeds still find windows to germinate. But then the loosestrife leaves, tightly adjacent to the ground, leave them no chance. Loosestrife blooms almost all summer.

exceptional (Dicentra eximia)

Sun or partial shade, height 30 cm. Dicentra blooms from May to early July, is unpretentious to the soil (as long as it is not a swamp) and combines very beautifully with hosts.

Ground cover perennials are indispensable in modern garden. They help change the appearance of the most unsightly corner of the garden or flower bed, because... many of them grow even in the shade. Ground covers are a kind of flowering mats. Let's take a closer look at them.

Groundcovers include low growing plants no more than 20 cm high, which grow very quickly, forming lush “pillows” of greenery and flowers. But among them there are also relatively tall up to 40 cm: heuchera, tiarella, hosta, bergenia, mantle.

There are those that grow, spreading shoots along the ground; they, like an avalanche descending from the mountains, fill the space of the garden. This is a jasper, aubrietta, awl-shaped phlox.

Evergreen groundcovers such as periwinkle, chickweed, and ivy retain foliage even in winter.

But all varieties of ground cover plants have general advantages, for which you should love them:

• durable and do not require frequent replanting;
• resistant to diseases and pests;
• not demanding on soil fertility, watering, weeding (growing quickly, they themselves crowd out weeds);
• drought and frost-resistant;
• quickly growing and filling everything vacant plots, can act as mulch for the soil, protecting it from the scorching sun; moisture is well retained under them;
• do not lose their decorative effect with early spring until late autumn;

For any conditions and corners of a flower bed or garden, you can choose your own ground cover plant.

Low-growing ground covers

Unpretentious creeping the plant feels better under the canopy of trees than in the bright sun. It can be used as a lawn because... it is resistant to trampling.

It is not picky about soils, but grows faster in fertile ones.

Frost-resistant. Feels good along the banks of ponds. Blooms continuously from June to September with yellow flowers.

Drought-resistant creeping spicy a plant that forms dense cushions of small fragrant leaves as it grows. It grows and smells fragrant only in the sun.

The soil should be sandy and dry. Does not require watering or fertilizing.

During flowering, it becomes a real decoration of the garden; due to the abundance of flowers, the leaves are not visible at all. Grows in full sun, tolerates light partial shade.

Unpretentious a plant resembling Irish moss, up to 10cm high. The stems are very soft and not brittle; they can be used as a lawn.

Prefers to grow in partial shade. Fragrant flowering continues from July to September.

This ground cover belongs to subshrub with woody shoots up to 30 cm high.

The bushes branch well in the sun, and in the shade they stretch out and the mats become looser. Flowering with spike balls lasts from July until frost.

Not winter hardy enough and requires shelter.

Unpretentious to light and moisture plant. Blooms small blue flowers, is growing well.

Shade-loving flowers

There are ground cover plants that prefer to grow in the shade. In sunny places they fade and lose their decorative effect.

Unpretentious, the growing bushes are a dense carpet of light green color, 15-20 cm high.

It prefers soils of medium fertility, but it must contain crushed limestone, gravel or coarse sand. Watering is necessary in moderation without stagnation of water.

Periwinkle belongs to evergreen ground covers with a height of 10-15 cm. Very unpretentious, grows quickly, forming a dense carpet of dark green color.

A well-growing groundcover with a very wide variety of leaf colors. Unpretentious and goes very well with garden neighbors plant. Grows on light soils without stagnant water.

It is characterized by good winter hardiness, resistance to disease, and easy propagation.

Evergreen creeping vine, and can grow both vertically and spread across the soil. The main thing for the plant is sufficient soil moisture. It does not have very high frost resistance, so it is more common in the southern regions of Russia.

Chistets belongs to high groundcovers with a height of 30 cm. The grayish-green foliage is covered with silvery fibers. The inflorescences of the spikelets bloom with lilac-lilac flowers.

Creeping

A perennial plant whose creeping shoots form dense mats as they grow. Grows in sunny places with fertile soil. It blooms in early summer for 1.5 months with fragrant star flowers.

The flower is frost-resistant and does not bloom when planted in the shade.

An unpretentious perennial plant with silvery pubescent leaves and snow-white flowers.

Grow only in sunny areas, does not need shelter for the winter.

Cold-hardy perennial up to 15cm high, requiring frequent watering, sunny areas and nutrient soils. Grown by sowing seeds on permanent place, because She can't stand transplants. Blooms from May to July.

After pruning the inflorescences, the second wave of flowering occurs in the fall.

The lashes of this perennial ground cover reach 50 cm. Not afraid of drought or frost. The emerald foliage is decorated with an abundance of inflorescences of different shades: pink, white, lilac, cream. And the aroma during flowering is incredible.

Fragrant absolutely unpretentious ground cover. There are varieties with vertical and creeping shoots. It grows in any soil and can be planted in both sun and shade. Faded inflorescences must be cut off to stimulate re-blooming.

Blooming all summer

Plant up to 40 cm high with highly branching shoots. Flowering is long-lasting and comes in a wide variety of colors. By removing fading inflorescences, the flowering process is stimulated.

A ground cover with leaves and flowers similar to strawberries. The berries are not edible, although they look attractive and look like strawberries.

Blooms throughout the summer, from May to September.

Can be classified as aggressive, because if she is given free rein, she will fill the entire garden. It's easier to start it than to get rid of it.

Armeria is flowering perennial up to 30 cm high, with spherical flowers. As it grows, it forms a continuous carpet of flowers blooming from May to September. Grow in sunny places without stagnant water.

Very effective ground cover With small leaves. The height of the plant is up to 15 cm with peduncles, while the height of the leaves is no more than 5 cm. It blooms from June to September in sunny places.

A plant up to 20 cm high, forming a dense carpet of leaves. It blooms all summer with bright spike-shaped chameleon inflorescences (at the beginning of flowering the flowers are pink, then red, fading, turning brown).

Can grow in partial shade, but blooms brighter in sunny places.

Ground covers in landscape design

Flowering ground covers are used to add brightness and uniqueness to the area. They refresh areas along paths and borders, in flower beds they are planted in the foreground, and against their background the main plants look brighter.

Many of them are growing on poor rocky soils, therefore indispensable alpine roller coaster and rocky slopes. Using trampling-resistant lawns as a lawn makes it easier to care for such a lawn - it does not need to be constantly mowed.

And how incredibly beautiful succulent ground covers, without them it is impossible to imagine any alpine hill.

Rejuvenated

On any garden plot there is room for ground cover plants to decorate the area or hide any imperfections. They are unpretentious and will not take up much time; they are the kind that, once planted, can be forgotten about after a while.

Why do you need to remove weeds in your garden?

Weeds in the garden cause a lot of unpleasant moments for owners summer cottages. These ownerless plants grow very quickly; they do not care about conditions, temperature, weather, or soil quality. This distinguishes them from most cultivated plants, which really need fertilizing and good weather conditions. If you do not fight weeds in your dacha, they will begin to grow very quickly throughout the entire garden, turning it into an impenetrable jungle.

• Classification of ornamental plants
• Weed cover material
• Weed control film

In addition, some of them are poisonous, and contact with such plants can cause allergies. Also:

• Harmful plants compete with cultivated grasses for water, light, garden space, and micronutrients.
• A number of weeds produce phytoncides, which, when released into the ground, damage or stop the growth of plants in the garden. Without quality fight with weeds on the site, the flowers and herbs you planted in your dacha may simply die.
• Some types of plants transmit diseases and pests to other crops in the country.
• Grasses growing through garden coverings and paths can ruin their appearance.
• For some people different kinds weeds can cause hay fever and allergies.

About negative impact A lot of videos have been shot about weeds on humans and animals, so it’s definitely worth watching. To kill weeds summer cottages had a positive result, you need to learn about the basic methods of control. The classification of harmful grass and the characteristics of the development and reproduction of these plants will also help you with this.

Classification of weeds - what types are there?

To understand how to control weeds, you need not only to remember control methods, but also to understand the classification of harmful plants.

Annual weeds are plants that develop and die within a season. To survive for a long time, they need to produce as many seeds as possible. The problem is that the seeds of some plant species have a long dormant period. Thanks to this possibility, seed material can germinate even 2-3 years after ripening. Common pigweed, blood crabgrass, nightshade, annual bluegrass, and fluffy brome are common.

Biennial plants require 2 seasons to fully develop, grow and die. In the first year, these weeds germinate a little, forming a rosette; in the second season, they bear flowers and produce seed material. The most common ones include burdock, clover, and thistle.

Perennial weeds are plants that live for more than 3 years. There are plants that reproduce generatively and vegetatively (by seeds). The main problem with such weeds is that they are easy to destroy only when the plants are young. If you miss this moment, then after a month the perennials will begin to grow and multiply. It is this feature that makes the fight against perennial weeds so difficult.

According to the method of reproduction, these plants are divided into 3 large groups:

• Simple, having a thick or fibrous root. Such perennials reproduce exclusively with the help of seeds. However, when the root system is dismembered, each part can lead to the emergence of a new weed.
• Creeping, reproducing by seeds and rhizomes. To the very known plants This group includes bindweed and creeping wheatgrass.
• Bulbous, propagated by seeds and bulbs. The most common weed in this group is bulbous bluegrass.

This information will help you in eliminating weeds on your site, because now you will be able to identify plant varieties, and this is already half the battle. To learn how to control weeds and better understand the types of weeds, you should watch the corresponding video.

Mulching, chemical and mechanical control methods

To find out how to destroy weeds in the garden, you need to consider the most effective methods solutions to this problem. One of the most well-known methods of eliminating harmful plants from a site is mulching. In other words, it is covering the ground with straw or other plastic material. The effectiveness of the method is achieved due to the fact that the covering material used for mulching simply blocks the flow of light to the ground. At the same time, the temperature and microclimate of the earth changes. To better understand the harmful effects of mulch on weeds, watch the video tutorials.

Mulch is divided into:

• Artificial (for example, film), which can fight various weeds.
• Natural (straw), which only gets rid of annual plants.

Second known method– mechanical, which includes weeding and cultivation. These techniques work best with annuals. By mechanical means you can fight with perennial plants at the dacha, but here you need to take into account that such weeds are capable of regenerating. In this case, weeding or cultivation loses its effectiveness.

The so-called chemical method, providing protection against weeds and significantly saving time on work. But it is important to remember that only correct application chemicals can become cheap and effective means in the fight against harmful herbs in the country. But before purchasing herbicides for weeds, you need to carefully study the instructions and then strictly follow them when using the products.

By the way, herbicides cannot always be used on the site for a number of reasons:

• Today, no herbicide has been created that could protect absolutely everything. useful crops in the garden.
• When using herbicides, even take into account weather conditions. In windy weather, chemicals can be blown away and damage other crops in the garden.

That is why it is always necessary to carefully read the instructions for herbicides, which will minimize the possible risks of using herbicides when killing weeds. Naturally, it is worth watching a video that talks about the destruction of harmful plants on the site.

How to prevent weeds from appearing?

In order not to wonder how to destroy weeds, you can prevent their appearance. True, this unique method of struggle is the most difficult. It consists of a thorough check of the planting material. So, if you find weed seeds in a package, quickly throw away the entire package - you shouldn’t take risks. Particular attention should be paid to wildflower seeds.

You should also pay attention to the seedlings before purchasing them. This will avoid introducing rhizomes of perennial weeds into the soil along with it. That is why it is preferable to purchase seedlings from a trusted supplier. You need to be careful when using mulch material in the garden, organic fertilizers, compost and even soil. Together with them, it is easy to introduce seeds and root systems of weeds into the soil, which will later be very difficult to get rid of.

It’s not common, but it happens that gardeners introduce particles of harmful plants into the ground along with soil-cultivating tools. This is why all garden tools need to be thoroughly cleaned before use.

And most importantly, try to remove weeds from the area adjacent to your site as much as possible, otherwise most of your weed control work will be pointless. For all these methods to be successful, they are best combined wisely.

We told you how to destroy weeds on your site, we hope our tips will help you. You can find additional techniques for removing weeds in the video.

nasotke.ru

Is there a grass-lawn that itself displaces weeds???? and if so, then the name please) I need it)) be kind)

P@SH@M@RCH&Co

The grass is called “Prunella Zemfira”, it is for these purposes - it displaces weeds, grows, forming a carpet. True, only up to 15 cm high

And then there's Lantrell and Tornado.

Mikhail Filippov

"Saxifrage" if I'm not mistaken.

Tatiana Guseva

Eat. This is clover.

°*”*° Veda °*”*°

Weeds and similar plants do not grow in autumn and winter, so by taking advantage of this advantage and planting in the fall, you will be able to control the appearance of such weeds in advance. If the lawn begins to grow early, then it will have every chance to displace or prevent the growth of weed grass, and if a successful combination of circumstances occurs, it may not appear at all.

In the spring, try to start applying fertilizer as early as possible. They will give early shoots a good, strong start, and if you also use fertilizer that allows you to fight weeds, then you can kill two birds with one stone.

I have a huge plot of land at my dacha (nothing grows) - how and what is best to plant to kill the weeds?

Lesnaya

You can’t plant anything in weeds... they will kill any plants... including pumpkin, zucchini and mustard. You will still have to at least gradually clear the soil of weeds... there is no other way. There is a proverb that weeds are the natural children of the earth, and what we plant are the stepchildren... so the earth will first of all raise its children. It is not necessary to hire equipment. Use mulch and bulk beds to suppress the growth of weeds in every possible way. And gradually work with the turf…. dig up the soil in parts, removing the roots, or cover part of the soil with black film... by autumn the weeds will burn out.

Rome Vafin

potatoes! You can do it without plowing, but you need to weed and hill up….

Igor Plotyan

Mustard will kill all weeds and act as fertilizer

Sunberry

plant a pumpkin.

Irina Shabalina

To sow any grass you still need to at least upper layer loosen. And without processing, all that remains is to mow... with a trimmer, mow directly to the ground several times a season, you can plant anything in the holes, and mow around

para pa luparapa

potatoes

Mityai Bukhankin

4 acres is not a huge plot. this is a piece. In order for something to grow there, you need to take care of it, and not sit at the computer.

Olga

Nothing can kill them You need to plow and pick out the roots If you just want a lawn, you can sow white clover IT is low and multiplies on its own BUT there is no escape from dandelions 20 x 20 I personally cover it with black film Nothing grows in the dark

Irina

roll it into asphalt... the costs are justified and it will work out forever...) leave islands for flowers and greenfinches...)

VERA SLAVINA

Plant some of the plot with green manure...or the entire plot

Hilarion

Try to loosen the top layer in the spring and sow the area with rye, it will kill the weeds, then mow, plant pumpkin, potatoes, cabbage - these vegetables suppress the growth of weeds. Good luck!

Andrej

Cover the weeds with cardboard and plant only seedlings in the holes. Next year you can cultivate the land, or sow green manure instead of digging

Oksana Kisko

Don’t fantasize about zucchini, they won’t grow in the turf, borrow a trimmer if you don’t have one and mow, mow! You will have a beautiful lawn.

Ruff

Don't plan on starting with a kill.
Even if it's just weeds. At the dacha there are no enemies, everything is balanced.
Learn to use beneficial features of what is.
And unobtrusively improve the site to suit your needs. Gradually.
20x20 m is not so much. I personally dug with a shovel 10x10 m in virgin soil, plus 14 more beds in different places on the site - also in virgin soil. Not immediately, of course, over several years.
I will advise - unoriginal.
You never know what you can do till you try.
The most long road starts with the first step.
Start digging and plant either rye or potatoes the first year.
And further - just as a lawn needs to be mowed for 300 years to become beautiful, so the soil needs to be dug, loosened, covered and improved for several years. This is the specificity of the subject.

Sergiy

I agree, mow and cover with black spudbond. With boards, musler, old slate, whatever you need, on next year you can dig in peace.

TULEPASHA

Plant slowly with perennial flowers and shrubs.
First, along the edges, so as not to interfere with mowing the area, then at your own discretion.
Place the mown grass in piles, let it rot.
Under the grass the ground will be like fluff. And sow zucchini, cucumbers, etc. in it for the next season.

old lady

Last year, I cleaned up my entire plot with labor, pens and a cultivator. Tractor not required

Tatyana Moiseeva (Ivanova)

You never know what you can do till you try. You'll dig up some of it. In the questions I read the answer that you can plant a pumpkin in holes very often, less weeds will grow under its leaves and it will be easier to dig up next year.

Alexey Alexey

One of the best ways for a large plot it is to plant green manure.

In particular, clover can be sown to suppress weeds.

Clover Sylvester
Creeping clover suppresses and displaces various weed plants.

IRENA

Buy a lawn mower and start mowing regularly, all the weeds will gradually be replaced by white clover.

Grass and weed killer.

Lesnaya

Herbicides, that is, means against vegetation, act only on the plants themselves, not on the ground. If there are roots or seeds left in the ground, herbicides will not kill them. This will all grow over time. So, it’s probably easier to just rip it out with your hands. But, if you want chemicals, then any herbicide that you find in the nearest store will cope with weeds in the cemetery... temporarily, but not permanently.

Filipich

If you don’t have any means, then cover the thread with something on top - with sheets of what kind of thread the grass will definitely not grow under it, after that, and treat

Fog.

covering material

Helen

If I'm not mistaken, it's called Lapis lazuli. I cultivated the beds BEFORE planting, but you can only plant seedlings, not seeds. Indeed, a good thing. It will be just right for you. Only BEFORE the grass germinates. And make the solution stronger.

Tane4ka

Lesnaya, as always, is right. The land is not watered. All herbicides act only through the green mass. Through it, the drug reaches the root and the plant dies. But all the same, the seeds remain in the ground and they will sprout again after a while. At my parents’ grave, I covered all the soil with black geotextile, poured decorative gravel on top, and made holes where I needed it and planted flowers.

Dragon

hoe, shovel, hands

autumn colors

Herbicides are used to water the weeds, not the soil; first the leaves are poisoned, which then reaches the roots and the plant dies. For grass, you can use a weaker solution, but if you have hops, sow thistle, burdocks, it is better to take a double dose, and the weeds come out several times over the summer, some early, others after the rains, and others appear in the fall. There are several names of them, we even have them on tap.