At what distance should I plant potatoes? Potatoes distance between rows At what distance is it better to plant potatoes.

Once during a club class I was asked a question: “How do you calculate the yield?”. It would seem that the question is simple. But strangely enough, there is no certainty on this issue. And when they talk about the harvest from a potato bush, this doesn’t mean anything to me personally. Let's look at how the yield per acre is most often calculated through the yield per bush.

The average yield per bush is multiplied by 500 pieces. Very often in the literature this figure is given: 5-6 potato bushes per square meter. Let's take the average - 5.5 pieces per meter. What is the planting scheme with so many bushes? Anyone familiar with mathematics can easily calculate that with a row spacing of 70 cm, the distance between the bushes will be 26 centimeters. In reality it will look like this. The distance between the rows is the size of the average human step (70 cm). The width of the shovel is 20 cm. A hole dug with a shovel using traditional agricultural technology has a diameter of approximately 25-27 cm. This occurs because the edges of the hole collapse. Thus, in order to place 550 potato bushes on an acre, the holes in a row must be placed end to end. But in practice, such a thickened planting is rarely seen.

More often, the distance between bushes is twice as large. To be honest, it’s not entirely clear to me why it should be calculated in this way? You can simply divide the weight of all the potatoes by the entire area where the potatoes were grown. Then the numbers will reflect the real yield. In all other cases, small or large errors are possible. I'm talking to a man. He says that he gets more than 700 kg of potatoes per hundred square meters. I was happy for him and trying to find out the intricacies of the technology. When a conversation comes up about the planting scheme, the person says that there is a meter between the rows, 70 cm between the bushes. I am cautiously interested in how the yield is calculated. A potato grower reports: I multiply the average weight of a bush (1.4 kg) by 500 bushes. I didn't argue. But let's calculate the real harvest. How many potato bushes will fit in a 1 m × 0.7 m pattern? It’s not difficult to calculate - about 143. Multiply by the average weight of the bush - it turns out 200 kg per hundred square meters. There was a mistake, however... For me, the most important thing is the yield not from the bush, but from the area.

The second issue related to yield is the amount of potato used for seeds. The connection here is simple. With the same harvest, the luckiest potato grower is the one who used less for planting. seed material. And you should count not by quantity, but by weight. I think this is understandable. A dozen fist-sized tubers weigh one and a half times more than a dozen standard egg-sized seed tubers.

In order to get the maximum possible yield from a plot with minimum quantity used for planting potatoes, you should pay attention not only to the size planting material and planting patterns, but also on other factors. These issues are very closely interconnected, and it makes no sense to consider them separately.

The fact is that, according to modern scientific concepts, the density of the plant stand determines the yield of potatoes to a greater extent than the planting density. Therefore, establishing the optimal planting density comes down to determining the optimal number of stems per 1 sq.m. for a specific potato variety and growing conditions. In addition, you need to consider the purpose of growing potatoes in a particular area. The optimal planting density for commercial potatoes (potatoes for food during the winter and sale) is taken to be the one at which by the time the potatoes flower, the leaf area exceeds the plant feeding area by 3-5 times. To do this, on each square meter of land you need to have from 20 to 25 well-developed stems. To obtain more tubers of the seed fraction, the number of stems per hundred square meters should be greater - 25-27 pieces per square meter. If you need to get potatoes as early as possible, for early summer consumption, and you don’t intend to grow them until the end of the growing season of the bushes, then the number of trunks in the area should also be increased.

Tubers of different masses create an unequal number of stems. Depending on the size, a limited number of sprouts develop on each tuber: the larger the tuber, the greater the number of main stems of the potato plant. A positive relationship has been established between the number of stems and the number of tubers. More stems corresponds to a greater number of tubers in the nest. Therefore, small tubers should be planted more densely than large ones. Potato yields from small, medium and large tubers with the same stem density are almost equal.

It would seem that everything is simple, plant large ones less often, small ones more often. This recommendation is found in almost every material on the potato topic. And they even give specific numbers at what distance you need to plant. But you cannot blindly follow these recommendations. You need to observe the varieties of potatoes that grow on your site. On average, each tuber has from 6 to 12 eyes, however, this figure varies greatly depending on the variety, and within the variety, on growing conditions. There are varieties that form 3-5 stems, and there are multi-stemmed varieties that produce up to 15 stems from one planting tuber. Therefore, to determine the planting scheme, it is necessary to take into account not only the weight of the planting tubers, but also varietal characteristics. For example, the Romano variety gives me on average 4-6 stems, the Scarlet Dawn variety produces 6-10 stems. Knowing this it is easy to understand that to ensure optimal quantity stems per hundred square meters of Romano need to be planted more often, Scarlet Dawn less often.

Often in the literature and periodicals you can find recommendations to leave tubers with a number of eyes of at least 7 (5) for planting. Most often, potato growers directly link the number of eyes on a tuber with the number of stems. But this cannot be done. As a rule, not all eyes sprout on a tuber. It has been established that on average 60% of the buds germinate in early potato varieties, 50% in mid-ripening varieties, and less than 50% of buds in late-ripening varieties.

In addition, the storage mode also affects the number of future trunks. seed potatoes. Heat during storage, it enhances apical dominance and thereby reduces the stem-forming ability of tubers. On the contrary, storing seeds under optimal conditions ensures uniform awakening of the eyes and the growth of the largest number of shoots - potential stems. What is apical dominance? When the temperature in the storage is above 3-4 °C, the tubers end their dormant period earlier, and the 1-2 strongest apical sprouts begin to grow intensively. At the same time, the remaining sprouts remain unawakened or, after sprouting, do not develop. Such planting material will produce small-trunked bushes.

On my plot, I plant potatoes after germination, when it is already clear how many sprouts are actively developing. But even this method of predicting the number of future stems does not give one hundred percent certainty.

Here's another common recommendation: “Under no circumstances should small and large tubers be planted side by side. First you need to sort them into three or four fractions by size.”. I hope that it is already clear to you that the recommendation should be applied in a slightly different way. It is necessary to sort the planting tubers not by size, but by the number of sprouts.

From all of the above, the conclusion suggests itself that in order to increase the profitability of a potato plot, it is necessary to ensure that, with a minimum weight of seed material used, maximum amount stems. I have already mentioned that for this you need at least optimal conditions storage In addition, potato growers use various techniques to increase the number of sprouted sprouts on each tuber. The most common of these is the ring cut of the tuber. This technique has been written about many times. I don’t think it’s worth dwelling on it in detail. Modern industry produces many different stimulants for processing seed tubers in order to increase the number of sprouts. I have no experience in using them, so I can’t say anything about them. Anyone who has had good results using any of these drugs, please share your experience through the journal.

In addition to the stimulating cut, I use tuber cutting. In some cases you cannot do without it. When using the selection of the best bushes for seed purposes, mainly large tubers fall into the seeds. It `s naturally. The bushes that have grown the largest number of large, uniformly sized tubers are selected for seeds. The use of such tubers for planting greatly increases the weight of the planting material. The number of eyes on a tuber is not directly related to its weight. Of course, there are more eyes on large tubers. But per unit weight of large tubers, there are fewer eyes than the same weight of small tubers. I don’t think it’s rational to bury 200-250 gram tubers in the ground. Moreover, up to 70% of the eyes are located at the top of the tuber.

In this case, I cut off the top of large tubers weighing 50-70 grams. She will be landing. The umbilical part of the tuber remains for food. In practice this is easy to do. In autumn, during treatment period When storing tubers, the tops are cut off and the sections on both parts of the tuber are dried. At this time, the cuts quickly become covered with a protective crust, and the potatoes are stored normally. After the cut has dried, the umbilical part is removed into a dark room, and the top is laid out for landscaping. Further storage as usual. I want to warn those who decide to repeat my experience. In my area there is a fairly low level of infection. Tubers damaged during harvesting, even if pierced with a pitchfork, do not rot and are stored until spring. I can't guarantee that your tubers will behave the same way. Growing potatoes in a monoculture, random seeding, and other factors can lead to the accumulation of potato pathogens in your area. And in such a situation, autumn cutting becomes unsafe. You can lose all the seed material due to rotting of the cut potatoes during storage. Try it on a small number of tubers, and only then use it in large quantities.

In addition to the described technique, I also use spring cutting of large tubers. Tubers become green in autumn. In the spring, the top is cut off before germination. The umbilical cord is cut according to the number of eyes. It is desirable that the pieces are approximately the same size. The tops are planted separately, pieces with one eye separately.

In my experience, the tops of large tubers (70 grams) yielded 50% higher yields than seed-sized tubers (70 grams), all other conditions being the same. This is explained simply. The number of stems developed from the tops and whole tubers is different. With the same weight of planting material, more stems develop from the tops.

When cutting tubers in spring, the sections must be treated with cement. The cement attracts a small part of the cell sap on the sections, which reduces the possibility of infection. And when it dries, it reliably clogs the wounds. When dry, the cement crust often falls off. There is no need to be afraid of this. The wound is already securely closed. You should also not ignore the recommendation to wet the knife in a dark solution of potassium permanganate after each cut. This will also reduce the likelihood of infection.

We examined the dependence of potato yield on the number of trunks. Some may want to further increase the number of trunks to increase the yield. This is not worth doing. An increase in stem growth leads to shading of the stems by each other. Severe shading of plants is accompanied by a sharp decrease in tuber growth (only tops with fragile and elongated stems are formed, in the soil there are long stolons with small thickenings at the end). This is due to the inability (under shading conditions) of potatoes to utilize carbon dioxide. Lower leaves die off due to shading and do not “work” for the harvest. Sparse plantings do not provide complete absorption solar radiation. Therefore it is important to create Better conditions illumination required for potato plants under specific cultivation conditions, taking into account the variety, size of planting material, soil fertility and moisture level. In this case, the leaf apparatus, due to better illumination, works more productively, which increases the yield.

Knowing the information presented above, many potato growers place their main emphasis on “making” the maximum number of stems on a tuber germinate, which will allow them to plant less often. With more sparse planting, fewer tubers are required, and the yield per bush increases due to the expansion of the feeding area. But in this matter, too, not everything is so simple. A potato bush is, in fact, several individual plants that have their own root system, growing in one hole. In such a situation, intraspecific competition for light and root nutrition naturally arises. And this competition is greater, the more stems sprouted from one tuber. Plants in such an environment oppress each other. A multi-stemmed bush produces a high yield due to the large number of trunks. But the yield on each plant - stem is small - 1-2 tubers.

Meanwhile, a separately growing potato plant with one trunk forms a powerful, highly branched vegetative mass. The number of leaves on such a plant is many times greater than on the trunk of the bush. As a result, more tubers are formed on such a trunk. This is the reserve for increasing potato yields on private plots. A study done by my son when he was in school clearly showed that for the same number of stems in an area, the yield is higher if the stems do not interfere with each other during the initial period of growth.

A similar effect is achieved simply. Instead of planting a whole tuber, parts of this tuber are planted in the same area, but not in one hole, but evenly distributed over the area usually occupied by the bush. Only this technique (uniform distribution of trunks over the area) gives an increase in yield of about 30%. It is well known that in the eye of a potato tuber there are several buds capable of forming sprouts. In my practice, I once noticed the appearance of 7(!) sprouts from one eye. But on average, from pieces of a tuber with 1 eye, we develop 1.75 full-fledged trunks. In other conditions and on another variety, this figure may be different. But in any case, cutting increases the reproduction rate. These techniques together give an increase in yield by 70%.

The technology of growing potatoes by experienced vegetable grower Gennady Sherman from St. Petersburg is based on a similar effect. Only he plants potatoes not in pieces of tubers, but in layering.

After one of the last classes at the potato club, a woman came up to me and asked a question: “Which potato planting scheme is most optimal?”. I replied that I use different planting patterns. The woman seemed offended by not receiving an exact answer... But there is no definite answer. There are many factors to consider when choosing a scheme. On my site I use different schemes, depending on the purpose of planting.

Tubers are planted when the soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm will reach 7-8 degrees. Usually in the Moscow region this happens in early May. Delay in planting potatoes entails a 30% loss of yield.
Well sprouted tubers To obtain early potatoes, you can plant them a little earlier - at a soil temperature of 5-6 degrees. Experience shows that such early planting in insufficiently warmed soil gives a greater harvest than late planting in warmed soil.

Potatoes are being planted on a flat surface, and on waterlogged and heavy soils - in ridges. With this planting, the soil warms up better and more air flows to the tubers.

Distance between rows of potatoes when planting

Before boarding In order to evenly place the plants on the area, the area should be marked. To do this, use a marker to make shallow grooves along which the planting is carried out. For the first pass of the marker, pull the cord along which its outermost tooth is guided. You can plant tubers directly under the cord, but this is less convenient and takes more time. To increase productivity after planting, the soil can be mulch(sprinkle with a 2-3 cm layer of peat).

The optimal distance between rows of potatoes for early-ripening varieties is 70-75 cm, for late-ripening varieties - 80-90 cm.
The planting density depends on the size of the potato tubers. Small ones are planted after 18-20 cm, medium and large ones after 26-28 cm.

Tubers are planted deep in heavy soils 6-8 cm, on light ones - 8-10 cm, counting the distance from the soil surface to the tuber. With such planting, approximately 350 large tubers, 450 medium ones, 500 and smaller ones will be required per hundred square meters.

Caring for potatoes after planting

Potato care basically comes down to keeping the soil loose and killing weeds.

Harrowing potatoes. The first harrowing is carried out 4-5 days after planting. Then two or three more before germination and one or two after the plants appear on the surface. Typically, 16-28 days pass from planting to germination.

Loosening and hilling potatoes. After the rows are well defined and the plants have sprouted so much that it is impossible to harrow, they begin to loosen the rows. The first time the soil is loosened deeply - by 12-14 cm, and the second and third shallower - by 6-8 cm. When the plants reach a height of 12-15 cm, the first hilling is carried out, with a ridge height of 15-20 cm. The second time the potatoes are earthed up before by closing the tops.

Feeding potatoes after planting. Before loosening the rows and hilling, it is advisable to feed the plants. This is especially important for mid-season and late potato varieties. It is enough to carry out two feedings.
First time You can add two handfuls of humus under each bush with two teaspoons of ammonium nitrate added to it, or you can add two handfuls of ash mixed with the same amount of earth, or you can add 15 g of chicken droppings.
For the second feeding dilute 2 tbsp in 10 liters of water. spoons of superphosphate and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitrophoska. Plants are watered with this solution at the roots, and then watered clean water.
Keep in mind that fertilizing is given only during the initial development of plants. After flowering, they lead to late ripening of tubers and the accumulation of nitrates in them.

In case of lack of moisture Potatoes are watered in furrows or by sprinkling. Drought 2-3 weeks after emergence, during the appearance of buds and in early August, when the tubers are growing, can significantly reduce the yield. After watering, the soil must be loosened so that a crust does not form.

Advice. To avoid damaging the potatoes, keep in mind that in hot and dry weather you should not carry out deep loosening around the bushes or hill up the plants. This leads to dehydration and overheating of the soil, stops the growth of tubers and contributes to the emergence of diseases. During drought, shallow loosening of row spacing is sufficient.

31959 07/09/2019 5 min.

From the owners land plotsThere are a lot of worries in spring. It is necessary to plow the soil that has rested during the winter, apply fertilizers, plant crops, hill up, weed, harvest and plow the soil before the first frost. The appearance of the walk-behind tractor solved many problems. Labor intensive garden work Now you can execute on it. This saves time and makes planting potatoes more efficiently.

Pre-planting treatment of tubers

Pre-planting preparation of root crops requires time and effort. On a standard plot of 6-7 acres, it will take all day to plant it with a shovel, but if you connect the equipment to the work, you can do it in about three hours. For small areas, they are popular.

To begin with, seed material is prepared. Preference is given to regionalized varieties that produce good yields in certain regions. Sorting is done in order to select good raw materials. Potatoes are selected to be the same size.

Small tubers produce a small harvest. Large ones must be cut into pieces, and this provokes various diseases and opens direct access to pests. Germination takes about a month. To do this, the seed material is placed in a warm (+12-15 degrees), bright room.

If dark spots appear on fresh sprouts, this indicates a disease. The affected tubers are thrown away. Before planting, they are soaked in stimulating and pickling substances. It is not recommended to place tubers in the solution for a long time.

It is better to lay them on a flat surface, spray them with preparations and let them dry. plant root vegetables are possible when the earth will warm up to +7, +8 degrees (in the landing hole).

Soil preparation

Pre-sowing work begins with the laying of mineral or organic fertilizers in the fall.

Stages of preparation for sowing in spring:

Immediately before planting it is necessary plow the soil to the depth of a spade bayonet(12-15cm). To do this you will need a nozzle - milling cutter
When planting potatoes under a walk-behind tractor Neva, The wings of the unit are removed before work. The equipment installed on the walk-behind tractor must be adjusted correctly. This will ensure smooth running of the machine and require a minimum of effort. A well-plowed field does not require harrowing.

You can watch the video online for more details about planting potatoes using the Neva walk-behind tractor:

Hide, for saturation with oxygen and moisture. In a well-loosened soil layer, crops sprout more easily. At this stage, the walk-behind tractor will greatly facilitate the process of preparing the soil before planting the seed.
Complete set of walk-behind tractor.

For plowing you will need wheels with lug elements, a set of rubber wheels, wheel extensions, a milling cutter, a universal hitch, hillers or a plow. If you are going to purchase additional attachments, you should first buy a hitch. The remaining elements are selected to match it.

Technology for planting potatoes with a walk-behind tractor

Tips for proper planting of walk-behind tractors:

The row spacing when planting potatoes with a walk-behind tractor should be from 55 to 65 centimeters.
Furrows must be done even, this will simplify caring for the root crop.
Before disembarking you can fertilize the soil.
Distance between tubers 25-30 cm.

Depth planting potatoes under a walk-behind tractor 10-12 cm.

When planting potatoes with a walk-behind tractor, make the distance between the rows the same. Watch the track width, it should be uniform. When cutting furrows, try to make them even. If necessary, pull the ropes to navigate along them.

Let's look at the main landing methods: using hiller, hanging element – , landing under plow, landing at crest.

How to plant correctly with a hiller, at what distance and depth

To plant with help, wheels with lug elements are placed on the motor cultivator. Will do well. The furrows are being cut. Potatoes will have to be planted manually. After disembarking, replace the lugs with standard rubber wheels.

Rearranging the wheels is necessary in order not to injure the seed. The track width remains the same - 55-65 centimeters, and walk along the furrows again. The walk-behind tractor will fill the row with soil and compact the seed.

Planting with a hiller is a less expensive option. The unit should only include metal and rubber wheels and the hiller itself. The inconvenience lies in manual planting of potatoes. For large sown areas, a mounted planter for a walk-behind tractor is used.

This method is considered the least labor-intensive. The unit includes:

Conveyor- a kind of conveyor that supplies seed material.
Furrowmaker, for making a furrow.
Distributor, for serving potatoes at certain intervals.
Disc hiller, paving and filling furrows.

How to plant with a potato planter

Thanks to the fit for a walk-behind tractor, you can save three times more time, than when planting with a hiller. The process is completely mechanized. Potatoes are planted and hilled at the same time. The potato planter has its disadvantages.

Firstly, seed material should be selected more carefully. The tubers should be the same in size. Young shoots are not very long. Otherwise, the seed will be injured during planting. Secondly, this planting method is more expensive.

Together with a walk-behind planter, you can use a special device for simultaneous application fertilizers in the hole, together with seed material.

Planting with a plow

You need to install lug wheels on the walk-behind tractor. The soil is prepared by loosening using a milling cutter. The plow for planting is inserted into the ground to the depth of the spade bayonet.

It is more efficient for two people to board. The first one controls the walk-behind tractor, and the second one places the potatoes in the furrow. The work is done promptly. During the first passage of the row, it is laid seed material. And during the return journey, the sown furrow is covered with soil from the newly plowed one.

Landing on ridges

Planting potatoes in ridges with a walk-behind tractor is practiced in areas where groundwater is very close to the surface. To do this, you should use a walk-behind tractor to form ridges 15–20 cm high. The tubers are planted in the ridge. This option is only suitable for well-moistened soils.

Potato processing

Weeding

A week after planting, it is worth loosening the soil. During this time, a dense crust formed on the ground, preventing the germination of plant stems and the access of oxygen. Weeding is carried out weekly. This helps fight weeds that negatively affect root crops.

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For weeding work, a rotary or mesh harrow, paws and a weeder are used.

Hilling

Shoots appear in 3-4 weeks. Now after planting you need to hill up the potatoes. A walk-behind tractor will help with this. Suitable for hilling one, two or three rows

But you can get by single-row hiller, which will lift the earth and the potatoes will lie along the edge of the ridge. All that remains is to go through and collect the potatoes. Planting and processing potatoes with a walk-behind tractor is not the only area of its application. Technical innovations have made the work of summer residents many times easier.

The walk-behind tractor has now become necessary tool on cultivation land plot. The unit is well worth the investment. You can see how walk-behind tractors can be used, in addition to planting potatoes, on the “Advice from an Old Plowman” website.

The choice of attachments depends on the owner’s requests. Using the example of planting, hilling, weeding and harvesting potatoes, you can see how makes life easier use of a walk-behind tractor for gardeners.

Potatoes are a popular and widely used crop that remains in demand. It is not surprising that many people are wondering how to grow this crop on their own plot, spending a minimum of time and effort and ultimately getting good results.

Getting ready to land

Before moving on to the nuances of growing, you need to make sure that the prepared area is suitable for planting - otherwise you risk wasting effort and time. Before planting, you need to pay attention to several important factors:

Clay soil or sandy soil. It’s not difficult to figure out this nuance: we moisten a small lump of earth with water and try to mold something out of it. If the wet soil is plastic and easy to mold, it is probably clay; if it crumbles in your hands, it is sandy. Both are suitable for growing potatoes, but each will require different planting and management schemes.
Soil acid. Pay attention to which weeds prefer to grow in the plot. If there is a buttercup or plantain, the soil has an acidic reaction, if there is bindweed or sow thistle, it is neutral. To improve the structure of acidic soil, bringing it closer to neutral, you can add ash, chalk or lime (1–2 kg per square meter) to the soil.
What crops was it used for? this area over the past year. Potatoes cannot be constantly planted in the same place, so it is necessary to alternate them with other plants so that the crop is less affected by diseases and pests, and the soil is not depleted. It is better to plant potatoes after beets, pumpkins, cucumbers, legumes, sunflowers, lupines or corn. We avoid planting it in the area where garden strawberries previously grew, and do not return it to the same place earlier than four years later.

The most common planting schemes

Both the schemes and methods of planting potatoes can differ significantly from each other - this is due to the composition of the soil and the climatic conditions of a particular region. So, in northern and rainy regions, in areas where groundwater is in close proximity to the soil surface or in excessively heavy soil, it is more advisable to plant potatoes on ridges. In arid conditions, smooth planting is used, and in the middle zone it is alternated with ridge planting.

The mechanical composition of the soil also affects the depth of planting. The lighter the soil and the warmer and drier the climate, the more planting material is buried in the soil, and vice versa. When planting smoothly on loams, the potatoes are buried to a depth of 6–8 cm, when planted on a ridge, by 8–10 cm. On sandy and sandy loam soil, it is more advisable to plant smoothly to a depth of 8–10 cm or ridge planting, in which the tubers are covered with soil to a depth of 10–12 cm. In the southern regions and the chernozem zone, the depth increases to 10–14 cm.

The standard row spacing is 70 cm and varies depending on the chosen planting method. Between tubers, 25 to 40 cm of free space is usually left, depending on their size: large potatoes are planted after 40 cm, medium ones - after 35 cm, and 25–30 cm is enough for small ones.

When planting potatoes, always place the beds from north to south so that the plants do not lack sunlight.

Basically, gardeners are guided by the planting schemes that are listed below.

Row spacing:

70 cm - for varieties with late maturation;
60 cm - for early potatoes.

Distance between standard size tubers:

30–35 cm - for late potatoes;
25–30 cm - for early varieties.

Planting depth:

4–5 cm - on heavy clay soil, as well as on moist soils;
8–10 cm - on loams;
10–12 cm - on light, well-warmed soil.

Conservative planting methods

When deciding on the most suitable method, remember that each of them will give good results only if the soil composition and climatic conditions are suitable for growing potatoes in this particular way. Thus, an excessively shallow planting depth is not suitable for sandy soil, and too deep is contraindicated in clay soils. For all traditional growing methods, only the basic requirements remain the same.

Landing under a shovel

The main and most common method, most often referred to as the “old-fashioned” method, is justified on light and loose soils where the groundwater is quite deep. A significant disadvantage of such planting is the dependence of the tubers on the vagaries of the weather: for example, if the beginning of the season was rainy, due to excess dampness, the roots of the plants begin to die, which has an extremely negative effect on their development. If it rains shortly before digging potatoes, the tubers can become saturated with moisture, resulting in poor shelf life. In clayey, excessively wet and heavy soil, the use of this method is inappropriate, since there is a high probability of developing fusarium and potato rotting.

It is much faster and more convenient to plant with two people: the first will dig holes, and the second will follow on his heels and lay out the tubers. You can also involve a third assistant in the event - he will level the ground with a rake in the already planted rows.

The principle of this planting method is as follows: rows of holes are dug in the area at a certain interval into which planting material is placed. In this case, the soil from the holes of the next rows buries the previous ones.

To make the rows of holes as even as possible, drive a peg from two opposite ends of the plot and stretch a rope between them.

With this planting, beds can be formed in three ways:

Square-nested. The area is conventionally divided into squares, and a hole (nest) is placed in each, keeping a gap of 50–70 cm between the nests.
Chess. The holes of adjacent rows are staggered relative to each other.
Two-line. Two rows of holes (lines) are located almost closely. The gap between holes is approximately 30 cm, between double rows - up to a meter. The holes themselves are arranged in a checkerboard pattern.

Pour a handful of humus and ash into each hole, and then place a potato tuber on top. During the season, be sure to carry out at least one (or preferably two) hilling. Plants should be watered once a week (twice in dry periods), the first watering is carried out after the sprouts appear. Two weeks before digging potatoes, watering is completely stopped.

Planting in ridges

This type of landing is similar to the previous one. The difference is that the potatoes are planted not in holes, but in shallow grooves.

Two pegs are driven in along the edges of the pre-prepared area and a rope is pulled between them.
A groove is formed under the rope, into which the tubers are laid out at intervals of 30 cm and each of them is sprinkled with a tablespoon of ash.
Then, using a rake (or a hoe, whichever is more convenient), cover the grooves with earth on both sides so as to cover the planting material by 6 cm.
They retreat 65 cm from the newly planted row and then proceed according to the same pattern.

Some agronomists argue that it is best to use the double row method for such planting, that is, reduce the gap between two adjacent rows to 30 cm, expanding the row spacing to 110 cm. The tubers are laid out in grooves in a checkerboard pattern, maintaining a gap of 35 cm. In the future, the double bed is cared for as if it were one row.

Like landing under a shovel, this method not suitable for heavy clay soils, since the likelihood of tubers rotting and plant infection with fungal diseases increases. But on soils of light mechanical composition it will be completely justified.

Landing in trenches

Main advantage this method is that it increases soil fertility. This method protects the tubers from overheating and drying out in hot climates, and is most appropriate in areas with loose soil that does not retain water well.

Trench planting has been successful since the beginning of the last century. This method is considered one of the most productive - provided the weather is good, you can get up to a ton of potatoes from one hundred square meters. At the same time, the tubers receive proper nutrition without chemical fertilizers.

Planting potatoes in trenches increases soil fertility

The site should be prepared for this method in the fall.

At the site, they pull a rope and dig a trench under it with the depth and width of a shovel bayonet (35–40 cm), laying the excavated earth along the left edge. Row spacing is 60–80 cm.
The bottom of the trenches is covered with plant remains and food waste - weeds, squash and cucumber tops, onion skins, flower stems, etc. Leaves that have fallen from the trees are placed on top, sprinkled with earth and left until spring.
Planting begins simultaneously with the beginning of lilac flowering. First, add a little earth from the tops of the ridges into the trenches, then, every 30 cm, lay out a tablespoon of ash, a handful of chicken manure and onion peels.
Planting material is placed on top of the fertilizers and covered with soil.
To protect the sprouts from frost, they are earthed up as they appear. If there is no severe drought, the plants are watered once - during the flowering period.

Potatoes planted in trenches can be fertilized with a solution of table salt at the rate of 800 grams per 12 liters of water. Fertilizing is carried out only once a year, combining it with watering.

According to some gardeners, the trench method gives good results on well-aerated soils with a high peat content. True, planting will have to be done 1-2 weeks later than the standard time, since peat tends to take a long time to thaw in the spring. And when such planting is used on loam, both the quality and quantity of the harvest are significantly reduced.

Landing on ridges

If you own an area with heavy, overly moist soil or groundwater is very close to the surface, feel free to choose the ridge method. It is especially good if it is possible to use equipment to cultivate the soil - for example, a tractor or a motor cultivator.

Choose ridge planting if you have the opportunity to cultivate the soil with a tractor or motor cultivator

The selected area is prepared in the fall by digging it up and adding the necessary fertilizers.
In the spring, ridges about 15 cm high are formed on the plot at a distance of 70 cm from each other and planted in them. As a result, the tubers will be protected from excessive soaking and well warmed by the sun's rays.

Ridge planting is justified exclusively on structured and moisture-absorbing soils. Since loose and light soil tends to crumble under the influence of precipitation, exposing potato tubers, and the sun and wind quickly dry out the ridges, plants will need additional watering in arid climates.

Deep landing (American way)

The so-called American method is suitable for light soils that dry out quickly. Planting is carried out according to a 22x22 cm pattern, while the planting material is buried 22 cm into the soil. When the first shoots appear on the surface, the soil near the plants begins to be periodically loosened, but hilling is not carried out. The rest of the care is standard - watering as the soil dries, preventive treatments and timely treatment if necessary.

The peculiarity of the American method is as follows: in order to reach the soil surface, plants are forced to form a very long stem. And since the tubers can be located along the entire length of this very stem, the final yield increases significantly.

Many experimenters claim that the American planting method is indeed effective, but it cannot be used on heavy clay soils.

New planting methods

Of course, conservative planting methods have many advantages, but many gardeners are wondering how to minimize the physical and time costs of planting potatoes and further care. Therefore, craftsmen never tire of inventing original methods that require as little time and effort as possible. These methods may come in handy busy people, as well as for lovers of experiments who will not be too upset even if the experience of growing potatoes in a new way turns out to be unsuccessful.

Planting in bags

The main advantage of this method is that it allows you to get a potato harvest in absolutely any area, even where it is impossible to grow it using traditional methods, since for planting it is not the soil from the plot that is used, but a certain soil mixture. However, in dry and hot climates, plants will require very frequent and abundant watering.

The method described below is suitable for tiny areas where there is no room for traditional planting:

You need to take a regular bag and pour drainage into it, and place potato tubers on top.
As soon as sprouts appear on the potatoes, they are covered with a mixture of soil and compost (1:1). When the tops become taller, add more soil, repeating this procedure if necessary.
Watering is carried out as the soil dries out; fertilizing is carried out regularly with complex fertilizers according to the instructions.

Planting in barrels

The method is very similar to the one described above, but in this case, not bags are used, but metal or plastic barrels without a bottom.

Holes are made around the perimeter of each container (so that the soil is better supplied with air and water does not stagnate in it) and a mixture of compost and earth is poured into them.
Potatoes are placed on top of it and covered with the same soil mixture.
Subsequently, soil is added to the young bushes as they grow until the barrel is filled to a meter.
Plants are regularly watered and fertilized.

If you provide the potatoes with proper care, you can get about a bag of harvest from each barrel.

To plant potatoes in barrels, use metal or plastic containers without bottom

Planting in barrels can be done on any site, since the land from the plot is not involved in cultivation, however, if the summer is very hot or in a dry climate, barrels with potatoes will have to be watered more often.

Planting in boxes

Like the two previous methods, planting in a box is quite justified on an area with any soil composition. In drought conditions, plants will also need more frequent and abundant watering.

The principle of cultivation in this case is similar to the American one, that is, it is based on the fact that potatoes can form tubers along the entire length of the stem placed in the soil (accordingly, the longer the stem, the better). A special feature of the design is to build up the walls of the box and fill them with soil as the young bushes grow. To do this, you can drive stakes into the ground and attach walls made of boards to them with wire, or simply stack boxes without a bottom of the same size on top of each other.

Planting in boxes is carried out as follows:

We place the box on bricks so that the bottom does not touch the ground and is well ventilated.
We cover the bottom of the structure with a layer of paper and cover it with a layer of light soil (ideally, expanded clay screenings with humus in a 1:1 ratio).
Place the sprouted tubers on top and cover them with soil. If planting is done early, cover the box with polyethylene.
When the potato sprouts begin to rise above the box, we add a second floor to the structure and again fill the plants with soil. We repeat the manipulations until the buds appear. To prevent budding from starting too early, water the potatoes with manure compost and protect the container from excessive heat.
Having noticed the appearance of buds, we stop building the container and take care of the crop in the standard way (water, feed, carry out preventive measures, etc.). The easiest way to water is through pipes with holes.
After the tops have completely withered, when the crop is fully ripe, you need to disassemble the structure and select the tubers.

To avoid rotting of the boards, with inside drawers can be lined with film.

Original and unconventional methods of planting potatoes

Usually, non-standard methods plantings are invented by gardeners to facilitate a specific task. For example, the area for potatoes is completely overgrown with grass, and there is neither the strength nor the desire to dig it up. Thus, the problem gives an opportunity to come up with an original and inexpensive way to solve it.

Planting potatoes without digging

There are quite a few options for such planting, but they all boil down to one principle: the soil should absolutely not be dug up. In particular, weeds should not be removed from the soil - shortly before planting, they are simply mowed down, leaving the roots in the ground.

There are no specific requirements for the composition of the soil for such planting, so you can experiment in almost any conditions, starting from the planting schemes and basic growing rules described at the beginning. But on heavy, overly compacted soils, the quality and quantity of the final harvest will be much lower.

One method of planting without digging the soil looks like this:

Carefully remove the soil with a shovel to a depth of about 10 cm.
We place the prepared planting material in the ditch and sprinkle it 5 cm with soil or compost.
Throughout the growing season, we dump various plant debris - leaves, weeds, etc. - under the bushes. At the same time, we try to ensure that the stems of the bush are not collected together, but, on the contrary, fall apart as far from each other as possible. We don't spud.
We water very rarely, only in severe drought. If desired, you can carry out preventive treatments, and if necessary, you need to spray the potatoes with drugs against diseases and pests.

Planting in the grass

With this method, you also won't need to dig up the area. The potatoes are simply laid out on the ground, directly on the grown grass, in two rows. The gap between the tubers is 25 cm, the row spacing is 40–50 cm. To ensure that the tops are well illuminated by the sun in the future, it is better to lay out the potatoes in a checkerboard pattern.

After planting, the area is mulched with hay, dry sedge or leaves. Some gardeners even cover the tubers with torn black and white newspapers. To prevent the mulch layer from being damaged by the wind, you can cover it on top with lutrasil.

A significant disadvantage of growing under mulch is that a lot of it is required, which means that it is unlikely that you will be able to plant a large area using this method. Mulch prevents moisture evaporation, so this method of cultivation should not be used on overly moist soils in order to avoid rotting of tubers and fungal infection of plants.

Do not use cereal crops for mulching, otherwise mice and rats will appear in the garden bed.

During the entire growing season of the plants, pull out weeds, grass and hay are added to the bed, making sure that the tubers are well covered, since when overheated, the layer of mulch will settle. No fertilizers can be applied. There is also no need to water - when the plants overheat, the moisture from them will go into the soil, providing the plants with everything they need. When the potatoes bloom, pick off all the flowers, leaving them on only one bush - this way you can determine the time of harvesting. When the flowers on the control bush wither, rake the compost and remove the tubers.

Planting in sawdust

This method is similar in principle to the previous two. Planting material is distributed over the site, maintaining a distance of about 25 cm, and sprinkled on top with a layer of sawdust mixed with peat, ash and plant waste so that the sawdust completely covers the tubers.

For planting, use old, half-rotted sawdust rather than fresh sawdust, since fresh sawdust has high acidity and can significantly worsen the final harvest.

There is another option for such planting: dig grooves about 10 cm deep in the area, fill them with a layer of sawdust mixed with organic matter, lay sprouted tubers on top of them and sprinkle them with sawdust.

During the growing season, add sawdust as needed to prevent bare potatoes. There is no need for watering or fertilizing. After the tops wilt, rake the mulch layer and select the crop. The sawdust left on the site can be used for next year.

Many gardeners note that with this method there is a high probability of tubers freezing, so planting should be done only after the threat of late frosts has completely passed. On excessively moist soils and in very rainy summer conditions, potatoes may rot and their shelf life may decrease.

Planting under cardboard

This method greatly facilitates not only the planting itself, but also the process of preparing the soil, since before laying the cardboard on the ground there is no need to remove weeds from it - they will subsequently die off on their own from lack of air and sunlight. Also, preliminary digging of the soil is not necessary. The only thing you will need is a large amount of cardboard. Make sure the soil is moist before laying the cardboard on the soil. If the soil is dry, be sure to water it.

It is better to use cardboard sheets large sizes, like those thrown out by furniture stores or hardware stores.

Planting under cardboard has an extremely beneficial effect on soil fertility, since the weeds that remain under it, decomposing, act as fertilizer. The soil under the cardboard retains moisture well; there are many earthworms in it, which make the soil looser.

Of course, this method is unlikely to be suitable for a large area, since quite a lot of cardboard will be required. In addition, you will need to constantly ensure that the covering material is not blown away by the wind. Cardboard tends to decompose and is therefore not suitable for repeated use. However, there are quite a lot of advantages to such planting: the gardener will not need to remove weeds and waste time digging the soil, the soil structure will improve, and, accordingly, the final yield. And you will only have to water the plants during a very severe drought.

This planting method involves two options.

Cardboard bed

The main advantage of this planting is that the ridges formed above the bed well protect the tubers from freezing. Therefore, this method is most often used when growing potatoes in cold climates, as well as when planting early varieties. Cardboard prevents the germination of weeds, and filling the trenches serves excellent fertilizer for plants. In addition, potatoes planted this way are much easier to dig up, since the cardboard bottom of the trenches prevents the roots from going too deep into the ground. This method is justified on almost all types of soil, with the exception of sandy and excessively moist clay soils: in the first case, the ridges above the trenches will very quickly collapse under the influence of external factors, and in the second case, rotting of the seed material is possible.

In the fall, cover the soil with a layer of cardboard without any pre-treatment (that is, digging or removing weeds) and press it down to the ground so that it does not blow away with the wind.
In the spring, the cardboard is removed and a trench is made in the area, the depth and width of a shovel.
Take used cardboard and place it at the bottom of the recesses, sprinkling it with a layer of humus and half-rotted grass on top.
Prepared planting material is placed on top of it at a short distance from each other and the trenches are filled in so that the distance between them is 60–70 cm, and high ridges are formed above them.
Water the beds as needed.
After the tops have completely withered, the crop is dug up.

Garden bed under cardboard

In this case, the area is completely covered with cardboard before planting. This method can be used on almost all types of soils (except for overly moist ones, since cardboard prevents moisture evaporation), however, there is a high probability that when planted in heavy soil, the quality and quantity of the final harvest will decrease. Avoid making beds under cardboard in rainy climates - excessive rainfall will cause the covering material to become wet, which will negate your efforts.

When planting under cardboard, you can cover the soil both in the fall and immediately before planting

Approximately every 30 cm, X-shaped holes are made in the cardboard and holes fifteen centimeters deep are dug under them.
A potato tuber is placed in each of them and sprinkled with soil. When weeds appear, they are removed immediately.
Watering is carried out in very dry times and only under the bushes (to avoid the cardboard getting wet).
After the tops die, the cardboard is removed and harvesting begins.

Since planting potatoes in an area covered with cardboard is not very convenient, you can resort to alternative method planting: first dig holes, place tubers in them and sprinkle with soil, and after that place covering material on top and make holes for future bushes.

Planting with a walk-behind tractor "Cascade"

When planting potatoes with a walk-behind tractor, gardeners mainly pursue the goal of making their own work easier, so they think little about such nuances as climatic conditions or the mechanical composition of the soil. In principle, this is true, since this method is successfully used on all types of soils, although planting methods may vary somewhat.

Using a walk-behind tractor, you can plant potatoes in several ways:

hiller,
mounted potato planter,
plow
into the ridges.

The first three are used on light soils, and the last is suitable for clay soils, where groundwater is in close proximity to the surface. Planting with a potato planter is justified only when working with a very large planting area, since its purchase requires considerable financial expenditure. True, some agronomists get out of the situation by constructing this unit with their own hands.

This method requires pre-treatment of the soil - the soil must be dug up in advance with the introduction of all necessary fertilizers. If a potato planter is used, the entire procedure is carried out in one pass, since this unit is equipped with a furrow maker, a hopper for planting material and disc hiller for filling furrows. Instead of wheels, lugs are put on the walk-behind tractor and the parameters of the potato planter are adjusted in accordance with the instructions.

When planting with a hiller, lugs are also installed instead of wheels. The width of the hiller's wings is kept to a minimum, and the track width is 55–65 cm. Using a walk-behind tractor, furrows are made along the width of the track and potato tubers are laid out, keeping a gap of 20–30 cm. After this, the lugs are replaced with ordinary wheels and the furrows are filled.

Planting with a plow involves installing lugs and the plow itself. It is much easier and faster if two people participate in the event: one operates the unit, and the other lays out the tubers. The plow is inserted into the soil to the depth of a spade bayonet: thus, furrows for potatoes are formed. After placing the seed material, the previous furrow is covered with soil from the next one.

Ridge planting is only suitable for well-moistened soils. Using a walk-behind tractor, make ridges 15–20 cm high in the area and plant potato tubers in them.

Planting in a greenhouse

This growing method has several advantages. Firstly, if you provide the greenhouse with proper heating, you can almost enjoy the young tubers. all year round. Secondly, landing in closed ground allows you to get more yield, and the plants will be less damaged by pests. And it’s much easier to weed out weeds in a greenhouse than in an open area.

To grow in a greenhouse good potatoes, you will need to carry out the following manipulations:

In the fall, the soil in the greenhouse is prepared by filling it with manure or humus and digging it thoroughly.
Select medium-sized potatoes and germinate the tubers in a well-lit and warm (13–17 °C) room, turning them over periodically. To speed up germination, you can put the potatoes in a basket and sprinkle them with damp peat or sawdust.
In the greenhouse, they draw even rows every 20–40 cm, dig holes 5–7 cm deep, lay out the sprouted potatoes in them and cover them with a layer of manure. After a week, the manure layer is increased.
The first feeding is carried out after the sprouts reach a height of 5–7 cm.

Potatoes planted in a greenhouse need very frequent fertilization. Water it abundantly, once every 10–12 days. Be sure to loosen the row spacing, carry out the hilling procedure and remove pests from the leaves.

Abundant watering of potatoes in a greenhouse increases the yield several times.

Planting under film and agrofibre

Growing under covering materials pays off on any soil, helps to obtain a consistently high yield, protect tubers from late frosts, and, if desired, make good money selling young potatoes. At the same time, there is nothing complicated in agricultural technology, and even beginning gardeners can easily master it. The use of covering materials increases productivity by 15–20%.

Regardless of which material is chosen, you will need to prepare the area in advance. To do this, in the fall it is dug up to a depth of 22–25 cm with the addition of organic matter and ready-made complex fertilizers. After the snow has completely melted, you can cover the area with polyethylene and leave it like that until planting.

To help the snow on your property melt faster, create raised beds in the fall.

For planting, medium-sized tubers (70–80 grams) are selected and germinated at 10–15 °C. To enjoy your new potatoes early, choose early or extra early varieties.

Features of growing under film

Potatoes are planted in the ground, maintaining a gap of 20–25 cm between the tubers. The row spacing is 60–70 cm. The planted area is covered with thick polyethylene on top and its edges are fixed with earth, bricks or water bottles to protect from gusts of wind.

Before sprouts appear, potatoes do not need ventilation, but young shoots already need fresh air. Therefore, after their appearance, the film is lifted from time to time, and when the bushes reach 10–15 cm in height, ventilation holes are made in a checkerboard pattern every 15 cm.

Control the temperature under the film - if it is too high, the growth of young shoots will stop.

Alternatively, you can install a frame 30–35 cm high above the bed and stretch the film over it - then the plants will receive more air. The rest of the agricultural technology does not differ from traditional ones: water as needed, fertilize and ensure that pests do not appear on the bushes.

Growing under polyethylene will help protect the tubers from frost, so it is advisable to use it in cold climates.

Growing under agrofibre

Agrofibre, or spunbond - non-woven material, widely used for covering plants. Its main advantage is that it is moisture- and breathable. In addition, good quality light agrofibre is washable and can be used repeatedly.

For covering potato beds spunbond with a density of 20–30 grams per square meter is suitable. Cover the plot with it in the same way as with polyethylene, fixing the edges. You can also stretch agrofibre onto the frame to make the bushes more spacious in the future. Since this material is highly aerated, it will not need to be removed periodically.

Depending on what goal you are pursuing, you can use either light or dark spunbond. White is usually wide and suitable for multiple uses. The black one is disposable, and it does not allow light to pass through, since it is intended to protect against weeds. If you use black agrofibre, after covering it, make cross-shaped cuts in it for each bush.

When planting under agrofibre, keep in mind that it will not be able to properly protect the plants from frost. Therefore, if the temperature drops to -6 °C, cover the top of the beds with polyethylene. Polyethylene film and light agrofibre is removed after the weather is consistently warm outside. The dark spunbond is left until harvest.

Hilling begins when the sprouts reach 15–20 cm in height, and watering is carried out once a week. Two weeks after planting, potatoes are fertilized with urea (15 grams per square meter), and before budding, potassium fertilizers are applied. The first harvest can be done as early as May (depending on planting dates), and the main harvest is carried out from the end of June to July.

A few more ways to get a good harvest

In addition to those described above, there are several more original planting methods that allow you to get good results. These methods are not suitable for everyone, but some gardeners really like them.

Method of P. Balabanov

The method was developed by potato grower Pyotr Romanovich Balabanov, and its essence is to carry out two hillings even before the emergence of shoots so that in the end the tuber is covered with soil by 20–25 cm. Balabanov argued that this method significantly facilitates the work of the gardener and increases productivity.

The maximum quantity of potatoes obtained by Balabanov's method is 119 from one bush.

Planting is carried out as follows:

On a prepared site in the fall or in early spring form ridges 15–20 cm high and sow them with green manure. A couple of days before planting potatoes, the plants are pruned, leaving the root part in the ground. Neither organic matter nor any mineral fertilizers are applied.
Only large tubers weighing at least 100 grams are suitable for planting. The planting material must be germinated, dipped for 10–15 minutes in a protective solution (1 teaspoon of potassium permanganate, boric acid And copper sulfate per 10 liters of water) and dusted with ash.
A shovel is stuck into the center of a previously prepared ridge, tilted slightly and the potatoes are carefully placed in this gap so that a 6 cm layer of soil remains above it. The gap between the tubers is 30–40 cm, the row spacing is up to 120 cm.

Planting activities are carried out after the soil has warmed to 8–10 °C. After a week (but always before the first shoots), the potatoes are covered with a 6 cm layer of soil, and this procedure is repeated after 7 days. During the growing season, the plants will need to be earthed twice more. Watering is carried out at least three times - at the beginning and end of budding, and then at the beginning of flowering. According to Balabanov, planting using this method will allow you to get up to a ton of potatoes from one hundred square meters, and the harvest will please you even in the driest years.

Gardeners who planted potatoes using the method described above claim that it is justified only if the summer is not too hot and dry. Otherwise, the tubers turn out to be very small.

Please note that only loose, fertile and slightly acidic (pH 5.5-5.8) soil is suitable for using the technology described above. For heavy soil, this method is absolutely unacceptable.

Folk method

This method was developed by one of the residents of the Tula region. It consists of carrying out the following manipulations:

In the fall, the soil is dug up onto the bayonet of a shovel. At the same time, manure is added to the soil.
In the spring, the site is dug up again - this time 15 cm deep, while introducing Nitroammofoska.
The plot is delimited alternately into strips 20 and 80 cm wide. Sprouted potatoes are laid out along the edges of the strips every 30 cm. The soil is raked from wide strips onto the tubers, covering them by 2 cm.
High hilling is carried out three times a season (if there is a threat of late frosts, the sprouts are hilled high).
When good weather stabilizes outside, the first fertilization with Nitroammophos is carried out. Then two more feedings are carried out with an interval of 10 days.
The stems of two adjacent rows are laid on top of each other and hilled up so that a flat mound is formed, and a couple of days before harvesting they are mowed at a height of 15 cm from the ground surface. This is done so that the stems take on new roots and produce more yield.

Gülich method

This method of planting is suitable for owners of large plots, since its point is that each bush receives maximum free space.

The plot prepared for planting is divided into squares measuring one meter by one meter.
In the center of each square, a roller of rotted manure is built in a circle, covered with loose soil and large potatoes are planted upside down.
When shoots begin to emerge from the tuber, pour soil into the center of the ring formed by them.
As soon as the first leaves appear on the sprouts, add more soil.
These manipulations are repeated until a multi-tiered bush is formed.
Water as needed and fertilize several times.

According to agronomists, if all instructions are correctly followed, one such bush can produce up to 16 kg of potatoes.

Potatoes from skins

A very original method that allows you to get a harvest without actually using seed material.

In the spring, potato peelings are collected and placed in open paper bags.
As soon as the temperature outside approaches zero, take the collected items into the greenhouse, pour hot water into a small corner of it, lay them out on top of the cleaning, cover them with soil or several layers of newspapers and cover them with snow.
When the soil warms up to 12 °C, sprouts will appear from the peel. They will need to be planted instead of regular seed, a handful in each hole. Further care is standard.

An experiment with growing potatoes from peels can be carried out on any soil and in any climate by allocating a small area of the garden for it. Since this method requires virtually no costs, you are unlikely to regret it even if it does not pay off.

If you do not have a greenhouse, germinate the peelings in the area, covering them on top with plastic film.

Video: effective methods of planting potatoes

There are a great many methods of planting potatoes - both quite conservative and original new ones, and it is simply impossible to list them all. Each gardener will be able to choose from this list the most suitable method for him, and, providing potatoes necessary care, boast of an excellent harvest.

All gardeners and summer residents are waiting for spring to begin planting the second bread - potatoes - on their plot of land. This is the most popular vegetable that will feed us all winter.

I want to collect good harvest, so that you can calmly meet the winter without worrying about what to serve on the dinner table, how to feed your family, and preferably what will be grown with my own hands on your own land, and not from the market. But here you need to know how to properly grow this simple vegetable. After all, many people think what’s so complicated about it?

That planting potatoes is a mere trifle. I marked out the beds, made holes, threw in the potatoes, buried them, watered them, and wait for them to sprout, and then dug them up and that’s it. But it’s not so easy to get a good potato harvest, with little labor, and even from a small plot of land.

Time to plant potatoes.

In the spring, after the earth has dried and warmed up, when the soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm is +8°C, you can begin planting. You can, as a guide, determine the planting date by looking at the birch leaves. If the leaf is already the size of a penny, it’s time to plant potatoes.

If desired, receive early harvest, the tubers must first be sprouted by this time. But here you need to pay attention to the peculiarities of the local climate. It is impossible to give one template for all regions, since the cold may return, and night frosts will damage the seedlings and cause damage to the harvest.

How to plant potatoes.

When planting, you can use a thread to delimit the locations of future potato bushes. Depending on how far the groundwater is, the planting method is chosen. When the groundwater is far from the surface, then it is necessary to plant in holes:

The rows should be 60 - 80 cm apart; There should be a distance of 30 cm between the tubers; Plant to a depth of 6 - 10 cm; After planting, level the soil with a rake to avoid moisture evaporation.

When close groundwater, it is better to plant potatoes in ridges approximately 15 cm high. This planting method allows the soil to warm up and ventilate much faster. The ridges are located at a distance of approximately 60–70 cm from each other.

Place the tubers at a depth of 6 - 8 cm. If the groundwater level on the site is very close to the surface and the soils are wet, then for planting it is necessary to make wide beds up to 30 cm high. Plant potato tubers in the bed in two rows with a distance between rows of 70 centimeters and between tubers from 25 to 40 cm (depending on the size of the tubers). The distance from the edge of the bed to the row should be at least 20 cm. This article discussed the question of how to plant potatoes and when they can be planted. After all, if you plant potatoes incorrectly, you can get a bad harvest, or you can even be left without potatoes. A video on planting potatoes has been compiled

Planting potatoes. Distance between tubers and between rows?

alex2107 11 months ago

Planting potatoes? Distance between tubers (bushes) and between rows?

11 months ago

At the dacha we follow the following rule: the rows are located at a distance of seventy to eighty centimeters (usually seventy) from each other, the distance between the tubers in the row when planted under the plow is approximately forty to forty-five centimeters. When planting, holes are dug under a shovel the width of the shovel, the distance between the holes is close (the distance between the tubers is approximately the same: 40-45 cm).

The distance between rows of potatoes and individual tubers depends on the method of planting this beloved crop. For example, with such an unconventional planting method as a “hill”, the distance between the tubers is only 20-25 centimeters.

When planting using the “barrel” method, the distance between tubers is at least half a meter, and between rows - up to one meter. The photo shows a method of growing potatoes in straw. The distance between the tubers is 30-50 centimeters, and between the rows - up to seventy centimeters. When planting using the tape method, a distance of 110 centimeters is left between the tapes, and at least thirty centimeters between two rows in the tape. In our country it is more often used traditional way growing potatoes, in which the distance between the tubers is up to seventy centimeters, and between the rows - at least a meter, so that there is a possibility of good hilling of the bushes. And one more thing: early potatoes are planted more often than mid-season and late varieties.

Comment

What methods of planting potatoes are used in agriculture?

Planting potatoes the right method will give excellent result.Potato is a crop that will never become unnecessary or obsolete. Growing potatoes is an interesting and simple task at first glance.

There are more than 100 modern methods of growing potatoes, one can be seen in the video in this article. Summer residents will say that the simplest planting of potatoes with proper care produces results. Why then is the yield different every year?

What prevents you from getting excellent results every year? Shouldn't you try new methods of growing potatoes? We will talk about what methods modern farmers propose to use in this article.

What are the most popular methods of planting tubers?

The usual method of planting potatoes is well-known and time-tested. Planting is carried out together, when one digs holes, and the second places the sprouted tubers there. To increase productivity, urea, ash and manure are placed in the hole.

But no matter how hard the gardener tries, potatoes do not always grow large. A number of factors affect the result, which are considered a disadvantage of the conservative method:

When hilling, part of the root system, which was actively developing, is damaged. Thickening, which prevents the sun from penetrating all plants, and allows diseases to spread quickly.

Majority modern methods cultivation is based on maintaining the distance between plantings and preserving moisture at the roots. Let's take a closer look at some of them.

The Mittlider method is based on a large distance between the tubers. The American vegetable grower Mittlider came up with and developed his own growing method. It is actively used in small farms abroad and in Russia and has already found its fans. The Mittlider method is based on the following: the beds are made 0.5 m wide, with passages of 0.70–1 m between them. Rollers are formed along the entire perimeter of the beds from land, they reduce water consumption and reduce the number of weeds.

If the landscape is sloping, then the ridges are formed in wooden boxes. Potatoes must be watered frequently and fed three times over the entire period. There is no need to hill up or loosen the plantings. Using this technology, you can get high yields even from a small plot. Thus, the maximum weight of tubers collected from one hundred square meters was recorded as 550 kg. More details on how tubers are planted can be seen in the video:

The Gülich method involves dividing the land for planting into squares of 1x1 m. Rollers are made with humus in a circle in each square, and soil is poured into the middle. Potatoes are placed in the center of each cell, upside down.

When the shoots stretch into a ring, use a hoe to rake up the soil to the very middle of the shoots. As a result, they diverge and grow like rays in different directions. When the first greenery appears on the seedlings, the soil is poured again, this is done several times during the growth period. If you water the bushes frequently, the yield from each can reach up to 17 kg per tuber.

Planting potatoes using the Dutch method has been used in Russia for more than 20 years. The Dutch method of planting potatoes is characterized by a large distance between tubers and aeration. Much attention is paid to the choice of material for planting, fertilizers and treatment of plants with herbicides. When planting, tubers are placed in increments of 30 cm, the distance between rows is 70–80 cm.

They hill up without touching the roots, simply raking up soil from the rows. Watering is carried out three times over the entire period. In this way you can get up to 2 kg of potatoes, and large ones, from each bush.

Tula farmers have developed their own method of growing potatoes. By following the rules, you can grow a crop of 500–1000 kg on 1 acre. The rules included in the method are:

IN autumn period the earth is rolled with humus added. There is no need to dig deeply, just use a spade bayonet. In the spring, the area is dug up a second time to 15 cm. The area is divided into strips that alternate 20 and 80 cm. The strips should be located strictly from south to north. Planting material is laid out along the border of the strips with a distance of 30 cm The potatoes are first germinated. It is necessary to lay out carefully without damaging the shoots. From a row of 80 cm, use a hoe to rake the soil onto the tubers, so that they are covered by 2 cm. Hilling must be done 3 times and the first is done high up on young shoots. As soon as the weather settles in the summer, apply The first fertilizers are nitroammophosphate in the spaces between the rows, after 10 days the procedure is repeated again after the same interval. As soon as the tops grow, they are piled on top of each other from two neighboring fields. The hilling is done jointly, so that one mound is formed. It is important not to form hollows between the old rows. 10–15 days before harvesting, the tops are mowed to a height of up to 14 cm.

Methods to reduce labor costs

For owners of small personal plots It is important not only to get a good harvest from a smaller area, but also to reduce work to a minimum. There are growing methods that can satisfy these desires. They are somewhat unconventional, but you can try them.

This is how potatoes are grown in straw, with moss and in boxes or bags. You won’t have to hill these up and watering will be significantly reduced.

You can plant potatoes in barrels or bags on the smallest plot of land. The technique is used on land with an area of less than 3 acres. Use any old barrels: iron plastic. The main thing is not to take them from under machine oil or chemicals. The bottom is removed and small holes are sawed in the walls.

Excess moisture will leave through them and oxygen will flow in. The soil is poured in layers: 10 cm of compost mixed with soil, tubers in a checkerboard pattern, a 10 cm layer of compost with soil. After the first shoots appear, the procedure is repeated until the barrel is 1 m2 full. Watering is carried out Often, they are fed with complex formulations 2 times. If the care is appropriate, then you can get a bag of potatoes from the barrel.

The method of growing potatoes in bags is not much different from a barrel. Take natural linen bags and fill them with soil and humus. Planting material is laid on top in a circle and again covered with earth and humus. Then proceed in exactly the same way as with planting in barrels.

After creating layers to a height of 1 m, the bag is placed in an open sunny place, but not in the sun. Watering is frequent, fertilizing is carried out 2-3 times per season.

With good care, a bag of potatoes yields 4 full buckets of harvest. Which method is best to grow potatoes on your plot depends on the capabilities and intended result. For large farmers, Canadian and American techniques are more suitable; for small farmers, you can experiment and plant potatoes in bags or barrels. These methods are less labor-intensive and require little maintenance.

Potatoes, proper planting of tubers, care after planting

When to plant potatoes correctly

Well sprouted tubers To obtain early potatoes, you can plant them a little earlier - at a soil temperature of 5-6 degrees. Experience shows that such early planting in insufficiently warmed soil gives a greater harvest than late planting in warmed soil.

Potatoes are being planted on a flat surface, and on waterlogged and heavy soils - in ridges. With this planting, the soil warms up better and more air flows to the tubers.

Distance between rows of potatoes when planting

You can plant tubers directly under the cord, but this is less convenient and takes more time. To increase productivity after planting, the soil can be mulch(sprinkle with a 2-3 cm layer of peat).

The optimal distance between rows of potatoes for early-ripening varieties is 70-75 cm, for late-ripening varieties - 80-90 cm. Planting density depends on the size of potato tubers. Small ones are planted after 18-20 cm, medium and large ones after 26-28 cm.

Caring for potatoes after planting

Potato care basically comes down to keeping the soil loose and killing weeds.

When the plants reach a height of 12-15 cm, the first hilling is carried out, with a ridge height of 15-20 cm. The potatoes are hilled a second time before closing the tops. Feeding potatoes after planting.

Before loosening the rows and hilling, it is advisable to feed the plants. This is especially important for mid-season and late potato varieties. It is enough to carry out two feedings.

First time You can add two handfuls of humus under each bush with two teaspoons of ammonium nitrate added to it, or you can add two handfuls of ash mixed with the same amount of earth, or you can add 15 g of chicken droppings. For the second feeding dilute 2 tbsp in 10 liters of water. spoons of superphosphate and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitrophoska.

The plants are watered at the roots with this solution, and then watered with clean water. Keep in mind that fertilizing is given only during the initial development of plants. After flowering, they lead to late ripening of tubers and the accumulation of nitrates in them.

After watering, the soil must be loosened so that a crust does not form. Advice. To avoid damaging the potatoes, keep in mind that in hot and dry weather you should not carry out deep loosening around the bushes or hill up the plants.

This leads to dehydration and overheating of the soil, stops the growth of tubers and contributes to the emergence of diseases. During drought, shallow loosening of row spacing is sufficient.

Planting potatoes

TO planting potatoes it is necessary to start when the soil at a depth of 10-12 cm warms up to 6-8 degrees. There is no need to be late with planting, as this can lead to a decrease in yield, but very early planting of potatoes in cold and unheated soil is also undesirable, since potato tubers, especially in clayey, moist soil, can partially rot.

The opening of birch leaves and the flowering of bird cherry serve as a sign that the time has come to begin planting potatoes. First, early varieties should be planted, then mid-season varieties and finally late varieties. In the regions of the far south, potatoes are planted in late March - early April; in the southern but more northern regions (Kiev, Poltava, Kharkov and other regions) - in mid-April; in the central regions (Moscow, Tula, Ryazan and others) - in the first half of May; in the northern regions - in the second half of May.

Potato planting depth depends on the soil, humidity, quality of planting material. In the northern and central regions, on light soils, potatoes are planted to a depth of 10-12 cm, on heavy soils 8-10 cm, on peaty soils 6-7 cm.

In the southern and southeastern regions, potatoes are planted to a depth of 14-16 cm. The tops are planted 2-3 cm shallower than whole tubers.

Potato planting density depends on a number of conditions: on well-fertilized or fertile soils, potato tubers are planted more densely, on poorly fertilized, poor soils - less often; Early varieties should be planted more densely than late ones, large tubers should be planted less often, and smaller ones and tops - more often. At 100 square meters should be placed when planting whole tubers, 450-500 bushes, when planting with tops, about 600-650 bushes, when planting seedlings or sprouts, about 700-750 potato bushes. The distance between rows of potatoes should be set to 50-60 cm, and in the row between individual bushes when planted with whole tubers - 30-35 cm, tops - 25 cm, sprouts - 20 cm. Tubers are planted per 100 square meters average size 20-25 kg, large ones - 30-35 kg, tops - 10-15 kg. Depending on ways to plant potatoes, the surface of the area planted with potatoes can be flat or ridged.

In the southern and south-eastern regions in conditions of insufficient moisture, and in the central regions on light soils and in dry years, potatoes are planted in a “smooth” way, which better retains moisture in the soil. In the central and northern regions, especially on heavy and wet soils, potatoes are planted in a “ridge” way, in which the soil warms up better and air penetrates into it more easily. Rows are marked on the site, which can be made with a hand marker or along a stretched cord.

When marking, the straightness of the rows must be observed. Smooth landing is made under a shovel or under a plow. smooth potato planting manually Under the shovel, along a line marked with a marker or along a cord, dig holes into which the tubers are placed and covered with a loose layer of earth (at the same time, fertilizer can be added to the hole).

When planting under the plow, the tuber is placed on the slope of the furrow, which is covered with earth when the plow passes back. Ridge planting of potatoes produced in a different way: the tubers are laid out on the surface of the treated soil (along a line marked with a cord or marker) and covered with soil with a shovel or using a hiller.

The soil for filling the tubers is taken between the rows. When nest planting of potatoes Two tubers or two halves are planted in a hole: each half or each tuber in the nest is placed at a distance of 8-10 cm from one another. When planting using the nesting method, the number of stems in the bush increases.

When planted in halves, more eyes will sprout (the cut stimulates the germination of eyes). Nest planting helps increase yield.

About planting potatoes and row spacing.

To each potato plant(not just potatoes) it is necessary to create conditions for the optimal healthy development of both stems and root systems, and this implies sufficient soil fertility and some pattern of placement of tubers when planting. Planting scheme potatoes in our area, they plant under a shovel, the distance between bushes and rows is 50-60 centimeters, that when hilling, sometimes you have to “expose” neighboring bushes by raking up piles of soil, which is very inconvenient for me.

This method requires a lot of seed potatoes. This does not fit into my ideas about sufficient territory for each plant, it turns out something like potato communal apartment where potato bushes are pushed by both roots and leaves, especially when the tops rise.

This results in a certain suppression and weakening of each bush and the entire potato field as a whole. (Monoculture!) It is very inconvenient to work on such dense plantings, and it is very inconvenient for potatoes to grow. Potatoes are almost always planted in rows; only the width of the rows and the distance between the tubers change. So let’s look at the planting schemes potatoes for the unit of measurement of all gardens and vegetable gardens - weave.

A hundred square meters is a banal ten by ten meters, obtained by multiplying ten meters of length by ten meters of width. This is how we get one hundred square meters - our SOTKA. This is how the potatoes sit “under the shovel”; processing the approximate distance is not very convenient. There is such an opinion when calculating the yield potatoes, in which you need to multiply the yield from one bush by 500 (on average) and the result should be the total yield per hundred square meters of your garden.

Although if we multiply 14 rows (with a row spacing of 70 cm) by 33 bushes (30 centimeters between tubers), we get 462 bushes per hundred square meters. Next, we multiply the yield of one bush, for example 1.5 kilograms by 462 number of bushes - we get 693 kilograms of potatoes per hundred square meters, this is with the classic planting scheme of 70 by 30 centimeters.

There are other planting methods, but in principle it is still planting in rows or beds. You need to start with the yield, or more precisely, with the soil fertility of the area where the potatoes will grow, and soil fertility is not a constant value.

It happens that they dig up less than they planted :) Knowing what harvest our land is capable of producing, we can draw up a potato planting scheme more accurately, with a more predictable result. I mean the “marketability” of our future tubers.

It’s simpler here, if you like larger tubers, then plant less often (the potato bush receives more nutrition), but if you prefer smaller ones, then plant more often (the potato bush receives less nutrition). Of course, it doesn’t happen from year to year, and it’s impossible to predict what kind of summer it will be, but it’s already somewhat closer when you start from the possibility of the earth.

You know what you will get, of course, if you don’t abandon your potato.Potato planting scheme with wide aisles for small areas; potatoes can be placed in rows as it is more convenient for anyone, and who needs what size tubers. My planting scheme is as follows, “beds” a meter wide with meter row spacing, this is the basic principle, and seed potatoes much less is required. Such wide row spacing allows increasing lateral illumination of the stems; the greatest effect is achieved when planting is placed from north to south.

I regulate the size of tubers by the frequency of planting tubers in rows. Here, at least in one row, or in a checkerboard pattern, I leave it to the will of the “spring aggravation”.

It is quite convenient to process potatoes planted in this way, there is no crowding, and all the bushes get plenty of food. Of course, like this method on large areas I don’t know what to use, those who plant 20 or 30 acres should use the planting scheme that gives better results and is more convenient for their fields. Vernalized potatoes before planting.

Planting potatoes (potatoes) in double rows. Device (tool) for planting.

We usually use these potatoes before planting. It germinates quickly and grows beautifully! As a result, if you have fertilized the soil on your plot in the fall, have the right potato seed tubers and have a desire to grow good potato harvest, and you don’t thicken your potato field, then I think you’ll succeed.

I wish everyone a great potato harvest! Have you read it? Add to bookmarks! Liked?

At what distance should I plant potatoes? Potatoes distance between rows At what distance is it better to plant potatoes.

Distance between rows of potatoes when planting

Caring for potatoes after planting

Pre-planting treatment of tubers

Soil preparation

Technology for planting potatoes with a walk-behind tractor

How to plant correctly with a hiller, at what distance and depth

How to plant with a potato planter

Planting with a plow

Landing on ridges

Potato processing

Weeding

Hilling

Getting ready to land

The most common planting schemes

Conservative planting methods

Landing under a shovel

Planting in ridges

Landing in trenches

Landing on ridges

Deep landing (American way)

New planting methods

Planting in bags

Planting in barrels

Planting in boxes

Original and unconventional methods of planting potatoes

Planting potatoes without digging

Planting in the grass

Planting in sawdust

Planting under cardboard

Cardboard bed

Garden bed under cardboard

Planting with a walk-behind tractor "Cascade"

Planting in a greenhouse

Planting under film and agrofibre

Features of growing under film

Growing under agrofibre

A few more ways to get a good harvest

Method of P. Balabanov

Folk method

Gülich method

Potatoes from skins

Video: effective methods of planting potatoes

Time to plant potatoes.

How to plant potatoes.

Planting potatoes. Distance between tubers and between rows?

What methods of planting potatoes are used in agriculture?

What are the most popular methods of planting tubers?

Methods to reduce labor costs

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Potatoes, proper planting of tubers, care after planting

When to plant potatoes correctly

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Planting potatoes (potatoes) in double rows. Device (tool) for planting.

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