Is it necessary to insulate the roof of a residential building? Rules for insulating the roof of a wooden house
The attic is the space between the ceiling and roof of a home. It can be equipped for living and working space or unequipped, that is, the attic performs exclusively storage functions. Is it necessary to insulate the attic in a private house? The answer is clear and obvious, it is necessary. For example, turning an ordinary attic into a living space makes it possible to increase the usable area of the home, without taking up additional land.
Many people are happy to use summer attics without insulation and enjoy the invigorating air and beautiful views from above. But exactly warm room can bring true comfort on early spring days or during the months of autumn weather. According to natural laws, heat rises and if the thermal insulation is carried out according to all the rules, then there is enough heat even without additional heating. Everyone will agree that in times of crisis, this is a significant saving. Insulating an attic is a kind of process that represents the making, figuratively speaking, of a layer cake. Each of its components is irreplaceable and performs its specific function. But regardless of whether the attic is residential or not, it must be insulated, since the house needs protection from cold air from above, as well as from all sides. Because everyone knows the truth that heat leaves the house through the walls, ceiling, floor and roof. Therefore, measures to insulate the attic must be approached seriously, carefully, and in no case should the process be ignored. Mistakes in this matter are unforgivable; they can result in the insulation layer getting wet, and as a result, loss of its effectiveness. If the thermal insulation is insufficient, condensation will accumulate on the ceiling of the house and the attic floor, and this is a very favorable environment for the development of mold. Well, plus everything, the overall protection of the house is also compromised, which means additional financial costs for heating will be required. Insulation of attics must be carried out immediately after completion roofing works. For “narrow” specialists, this work may be overwhelming, since today attic insulation- the prerogative of roofers or builders who deal finishing works. This is where the main threat of poor quality execution of such a procedure lies. Mistakes that may be made by inexperienced specialists will not be revealed immediately. The only way out of such a difficult situation is personal control of each stage of the insulation work; of course, you first need to study all the current issues. Types of insulation
Polystyrene foam, extrusion and mineral wool insulation are used as insulation. But for residential buildings it is advisable to use mineral materials basalt or glass wool. Their main advantage is that they do not burn, besides, they weigh little and have a low thermal conductivity coefficient. Another advantage is their rigidity, which ensures dimensional retention and resistance to slipping.
Non-residential attic
The main function of the insulating layer in such an attic is to retain heat in the house, while creating an obstacle to its escape through the ceilings. The first mistake that can occur at the stage of finishing the ceiling with plasterboard is the lack of vapor barrier. It should overlap (10 cm); The seams must be joined with self-adhesive tape. If a vapor barrier layer is not laid under the insulation, then after 3-5 years, the entire insulation will become unusable. Why? Because warm air rises upward, it is saturated with moisture, and when it enters a cold zone, this same moisture falls into condensation. The insulation becomes saturated with water and the process of rotting begins. Only after following this procedure can you begin laying the heat insulator. For insulating the attic floor, bulk or fibrous heat insulating materials are best suited. They perfectly cover all the cracks, thereby forming a dense layer of insulation. This can be ecowool, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene foam granules. Insulation of attic floors is also possible with sheets of expanded polystyrene, while the remaining cracks are blown in polyurethane foam. Mineral wool is the most common material used in residential and non-residential attics. Laying insulation - recommendations:
If the floor beams are not very thick, then after they are filled with insulation, you can fill the slats perpendicularly on top of the beams, and place an additional layer between them. As a result, such slats can be used as floor sheathing in the attic; - if the distance between the beams and the width of the slabs is different, then you can resort to using triangular slabs. The point is that two triangular slabs are aligned relative to the adjacent diagonal, which means they fall into the space between the beams. But we should not forget that the quality of such installation will directly depend on the right technology cutting corners; - if the length of the insulation roll is shorter than the length of the overlap, then the mating can be done as follows: at the joining point, the missing part is laid on top of the already laid insulation and cut off at the level of the joint. The cut part turns out to be a little longer, and this is what is needed for a tight and high-quality joining. Residential attic
It is more labor intensive and difficult process. Insulation begins with checking the integrity of the film, which is located under the roof. If damaged areas are found, they must be sealed with special repair tape. Such an operation does not make sense if plywood or board covering is already nailed to the rafter legs. The next stage is attaching the spacer battens to the rafter legs. These slats create a gap between the film and the insulation (3-5 cm). The space left will provide ventilation for the insulation to dry and ventilate it. A similar measure applies to film with vapor permeability
It is undesirable to use overly wide strips of insulation when laying it in the space between the beams. There will be a strong compaction of the material, and its thermal insulation properties will decrease;
When insulating, you need to use the same type of material, since violation of uniformity reduces quality indicators;
Do not delaminate slabs to reduce thickness;
The hatch cover that leads to the attic must also be insulated at the level of general thermal insulation: to avoid severe heat loss;
Replacing the vapor barrier film with a sealed one - gross violation technologies. Moisture will accumulate in the thermal insulation layer and the effect will be reduced. In addition to all of the above, I would like to note the argument that new materials with unique characteristics and properties are appearing on the building materials market. One of them is polyurethane foam. This is a revolutionary material, seamless insulation, which is not afraid of mold and fungi and does not rot. Plus, it is environmentally friendly and has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, which means the thickness of the coating will be less than that of mineral wool or expanded clay. As you can see, insulation options can be different, the main thing is that the work is done efficiently, then the maximum benefit will be achieved.
In order for the roof to perform its functions efficiently and serve for a long time, it must be insulated. There are a lot of materials and methods for installing a heat-insulating layer, and the choice suitable technology always done individually. This article will discuss how to properly install insulation on the roof of a private house.
The need for roof insulation
Of course, the final decision about whether the roof needs to be insulated is made by the owner of the house - but before that, you need to weigh all the pros and cons. The latter include additional costs for arranging the roof and the effort required to install the heat-insulating layer.
However, the financial expenses and efforts made will pay off in the future. The main advantage of roof insulation is that after installation, the level of heat loss of the entire building is reduced by an average of 15%. If the under-roof space is not intended to be used as a residential space, then the roof itself does not need to be insulated - the thermal insulation of the roof of the house in this case will be mounted on the attic floor or the ceiling of the living premises. To prevent the structure from rotting, high-quality roof ventilation is required.
Roof insulation will be most relevant when arranging a residential attic, especially if the building is located in a region with a harsh climate. In such cases, if the attic will be used all year round, you will have to pay special attention to the issues of its insulation and heating. Less stringent requirements are imposed on the insulation of summer attics.
How to properly insulate a flat roof
When insulating flat roof it is necessary to take into account that thermal insulation can be both on the internal and external outside. It is advisable to start with external insulation, and after the first winter decide whether it makes sense to insulate the roof along the rafters from the inside.
Roofing pie flat roof comprises:
- Vapor barrier layer;
- Insulation layer;
- Waterproofing layer;
- Bulk layer.
For arrangement external thermal insulation Most often, basalt mineral wool is used, which is optimally suited for these purposes. However, you can choose from any type of rigid insulation - for example, expanded polystyrene would be a good option. It is also worth remembering that roof covering, prone to fire, cannot be insulated with polymer heat insulators.
Insulation of a pitched roof
Thermal insulation pitched roof installed on the rafter system. Before laying insulation on the roof, it is necessary to design it in advance in order to avoid installation errors.
A pitched roof consists of the following elements:
- Roofing;
- Waterproofing layer;
- Thermal insulation;
- Vapor barrier material;
- Interior finishing (optional).
Mineral wool, which has high performance characteristics and has a relatively low cost. The main disadvantage of mineral insulation is its ability to absorb moisture, which is why its thermal insulation properties are lost over time. In addition, the presence of moisture under the roof leads to the gradual destruction of wooden parts.
To compensate for the described disadvantage, the structure must be supplemented with ventilation, hydro- and vapor barrier. The insulation itself on the roof of the house is laid on the underside of the roof during its arrangement or repair. If we are talking about repairs, then damaged wooden elements should be replaced, and new ones are treated with protective compounds before installation.
In addition, for effective insulation and reliability, the roof must be well ventilated, so it is necessary to install ventilation ducts between:
- A layer of waterproofing and finishing coating;
- Thermal insulation and waterproofing layer;
- Vapor barrier material and internal lining.
Materials for insulating pitched roofs
Various materials can be used to insulate the roof, the most popular of which are:
- Mineral wool;
- Glass wool;
- Polyurethane foam;
- Expanded polystyrene.
The characteristics and features of the materials differ, but they all adequately protect the roof from temperature effects. It is only worth noting that it is best to select materials produced in the form of slabs - they are much more convenient to install.
To construct a waterproofing layer, ordinary roofing material or a special one is most often used. waterproofing membrane, which does not allow water to pass through, but ensures the removal of moisture from the heat insulator. When installing waterproofing, you need to ensure that the tightness of the material has not been compromised.
Vapor barriers can be made from different materials, including:
- Ruberoid;
- Polyethylene film;
- Glassine;
- Foil materials.
However, if we are talking about a high-quality vapor barrier layer, then the best option would be a vapor barrier membrane, which works on the principle of one-way moisture transmission - condensate is removed from the insulation and does not enter the internal cavities of the roofing pie.
Algorithm for roof insulation - how to lay thermal insulation
Installation of a roof with insulation comes down to the following sequence of actions:
- First, the installation step of the rafter legs is measured. The heat-insulating material slabs are cut in accordance with the obtained dimensions, but 1 cm is added to them - this will allow the insulation to stay in place on its own. You can simplify this stage of work when arranging new roof, calculating it so that the distance between the rafters corresponds to the width of the insulation boards.
- A waterproofing layer must be installed in the space between the rafters and the finishing coating. The membrane must be attached to the rafters so that it envelops them. Can be used for fixation construction stapler, with which the waterproofing is attached to the rafters and sheathing. Waterproofing material need to be brought to the eaves so that the collected moisture goes beyond the roof. The described method of fastening does not allow for proper ventilation, so only a special waterproofing membrane should be used as a material.
- If waterproofing is already installed under top part roof, then nails are driven into the rafters every 10 cm so that the distance between them and the membrane is at least 3-5 cm. The driven nails allow you to stretch a cord along the line of which the air gap will pass in the space between the waterproofing and the heat-insulating material. If the insulation itself is attached using a cord, then the nails will also need to be hammered along the outside of the rafters.
- When using insulation materials produced in the form of slabs, installation is reduced to inserting them into the space between the rafters (naturally, they will have to be compressed a little so that they fit into the gap). Before properly insulating the roof, more rigid materials must be carefully adjusted to fit the gaps in the rafter system. For maximum efficiency, it is worth installing two-layer insulation.
- When installing narrow fragments that require joining along one of the planes, you need to make sure that the joints of the first and second layers of thermal insulation do not coincide with each other. The thermal insulation layer should not extend beyond the rafters, and if this happens, then additional timber will have to be placed on the rafters.
- To attach the insulation, a cord stretched between nails or a lath made of slats can be used. These slats need to be nailed to the rafters at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. In this case, the vapor barrier layer must be attached before the sheathing is installed - due to the thickness of the slats, an air gap is provided.
- When installing a vapor barrier, you need to make sure that the material is installed hermetically. To do this, the joints must be covered with two layers of adhesive tape. Special attention you need to pay attention to the points where the material connects to the wall and chimney. When all structural elements are installed, you can proceed to the final stage - installation of the sheathing.
Conclusion
Roof insulation is a very important part of the structure, which allows you to increase the thermal efficiency of the roof. Knowing how to properly install insulation on a roof and high-quality performance of all work will allow you to create a reliable and high-quality structure that will perform its functions throughout the entire period of operation.
January 19, 2017
The correct construction of the roof determines how high-quality its operation will be. This applies not only to the choice of roofing material, but also to the availability and correct installation waterproofing layer. How to do it correctly without making mistakes?
The roof is insulated both during the construction of the roof and during repair work. The technology for installing insulation directly depends on the type of roof, the type of insulation and the purpose of the attic space.
This material is used to minimize heat loss. For the best effect, it is necessary to choose the right insulation and lay it in accordance with the installation technology. Correctly performed roof insulation work increases the thermal efficiency of a structure by 15%. Thus, in attic room or you can live in the attic all year round.
The highest demands are placed on residential attics, which are located in regions with frosty winters. For summer attics or attics, you can use a thinner layer of thermal insulation material. The roofing pie of a non-residential attic space often lacks insulation. It is placed on the ceiling of the living space below. In this case, the space is well ventilated, and this prevents premature rotting of the rafter system.
Thermal insulation for flat roofs
How to insulate a roof with a minimum angle of inclination? Installation work can be carried out both inside and outside. Many experts recommend first performing external insulation and overwintering. Exactly winter period and determine the need for additional internal insulation.
A flat roof roofing pie consists of:
- Vapor barriers;
- Insulation;
- Waterproofing;
- A layer of bulk building materials covered with a cement-sand mixture.
Basalt wool is most often used to perform external insulation. Rigid insulation materials such as polystyrene foam are also used. Polymer insulation cannot be used in the construction of roofs with high fire safety requirements.
Insulation for pitched roofs
Construction of a roofing pie pitched roof different from the previous version. The insulation is laid along the rafters. This roof configuration requires attention and knowledge in installing insulating material. Improperly performed work can damage the wooden structures of the rafter system within a minimum period of operation.
But how to insulate a roof correctly? First you need to choose the material. Mineral wool is most often used. It does not support the combustion process, is easy to install, and is characterized by an affordable price. The disadvantage is the ability to accumulate moisture, which further reduces the thermal insulation properties of the material and rotting of the wood of the rafter system. Therefore, when constructing a roofing pie, it is necessary to correctly position the hydro- and vapor barrier of the roof.
The insulation must be installed from the attic side. If you are carrying out repairs, you need to check the condition of the rafter system. If you find structural elements in which rotting processes are present, they should be replaced immediately. Remember that all wood must be treated with a product that prevents the penetration of insects and protects against fire.
The roofing pie of a pitched roof consists of:
- Roofing material;
- Waterproofing;
- Thermal insulation;
- Vapor barriers, interior finishing.
When performing installation work, it is necessary to provide for the presence of an air gap in which air will circulate. For high-quality circulation in the roof, you need to make special vents under the ridge and in the roof overhang. Layers need to be created between the following layers:
- Interior finishing and vapor barrier;
- Waterproofing and roofing material;
- Waterproofing and insulation.
We learned the features of the construction and insulation of roofs of various types.
Construction of a heat-insulating layer of a pitched roof
Glass wool, board polymer materials, mineral wool are used for construction high-quality thermal insulation Houses. The methods for installing them are almost the same, but experts say that the material in the form of slabs is much easier to install, especially if necessary. Remember that roofing installation occurs at height. Therefore, you should worry about your safety. You need to stand on the roof confidently.
To make a waterproofing layer, roofing felt and a waterproofing membrane are most often used. The latter is recommended by experts, because it does not allow moisture to pass through, but can remove moisture from the insulating layer. Glassine and foil materials are also used. The latter are laid in such a way that the side with foil is placed towards the attic.
Many experts argue that it is better to use a vapor barrier membrane in the roofing pie. It has the ability to “breathe”.
Insulation of pitched roofs
How to insulate a roof of this configuration, since it is the most popular? It's actually very simple. First of all, you need to do some calculations. To do this, measure the distance between the rafters. Taking into account the data obtained, you need to cut the insulation boards, leaving an additional 1 cm on all sides. Thus, the heat insulator will be secured between the rafter beams. Fastening the tile material will be completely easy if during the design the use of this particular material was envisaged.
If there is no insulation between the finishing coating and the rafters, waterproofing should be installed. It should envelop the rafters on almost all sides. Fastening is done to wood using a stapler. The waterproofing must be brought under the overhang from the underside of the roof. This will ensure reliable moisture removal. In this case, the insulation is laid closely, without a layer. In this option, it is better to use waterproofing, which has the ability to “breathe”.
If you choose cotton slab insulation, then it needs to be slightly pressed between the rafters. If more rigid materials are used, they must exactly match the distance between the rafters. Experts recommend laying insulation in 2 layers. If the width of the rafters does not allow laying double layer, then additional timber is nailed to them, increasing the width.
Thermal insulation should not protrude onto the plane of the rafter legs. It is fixed between the rafters with a stretched cord, previously secured to nails. They are installed in increments of 10 cm, at a distance of 5 cm from the waterproofing. You can also use a counter-lattice for fixation. In this case, the slats are stuffed in increments of 40 cm between the rafters.
The vapor barrier should be stretched with an overlap of 10 cm, gluing the joints with special double-sided adhesive tape. Special attention You need to pay attention to installing a vapor barrier around the chimney.
The final stage is lining the roof from the inside.
The features of constructing a roofing pie are known, but how much does it cost? This depends on the type of materials used in the construction. Remember that a well-insulated house will pay for itself in the near future, saving a large amount of money during the heating season.
To understand how to properly insulate a roof, you need to understand its types. The most common types of roofing structures are cold attic and attic. In the first case, it will be necessary to insulate the ceilings of the upper residential floor (air attic space does not warm up, hence the name). In the second - laying thermal insulation along the roof rafters. In today’s article we will analyze in detail the process of insulating the roof of a cold attic.
The cold attic is the most common, time-tested roofing structure, used all over the world for decades. It has become widespread due to its simplicity, availability of materials and ease of installation. In addition, in the cold attic there is access to inspect the load-bearing structures of the roof, so possible leaks can be easily localized and eliminated with improvised means.
Rice. 1. Cold attic insulation system: 1. Floor beams 2. Stone wool insulation 3. Vapor barrier film 4. Super diffusion membrane 5. Sparse lathing 6. Internal lathing
Wooden floor beams and reinforced concrete slabs are most often used as the base for the attic. Depending on the selected flooring material for the residential floor, the insulation system will differ. Wood is one of the best building materials, which has a number of undeniable advantages: lightness, strength and flexibility. However, wood is sensitive to humidity: over-moistened wood during use can bend in an unpredictable way if it picks up moisture and then dries out. Therefore, wet wood is not used in construction, and dry wood is carefully isolated from possible waterlogging during operation.
The ability of wood to absorb moisture affects the choice of all cold attic materials. So, when choosing insulation, you should give preference to a vapor-permeable material based on mineral wool: this material will allow all wet steam to pass through itself, leaving the beams dry. When choosing between glass wool and stone wool, you should remember the ability of the latter to protect the entire structure from exposure to open fire. The sintering temperature of glass wool fibers is only about 600 °C, and this temperature is reached within 5 minutes after the start of combustion. Therefore, only stone wool can protect bearing structures, extend the life of the house and, in the event of a fire, give more time to save people and property.
Here it is worth recalling that any organic insulation (foam, polyurethanes) burns, so it is better not to use them when building wooden or frame house. The combustion of some of them is also accompanied by the release of toxic vapors into the atmosphere, “splashing” of the melt, which poses an additional danger to people. The use of organic insulation in floor construction requires mandatory protection with a cement-sand screed.
Many questions in the insulation system are raised by the use of various construction films. Due to their incorrect location in the structure, floor beams can begin to rot, which is why they subsequently lose their load-bearing capacity and collapse in a few years. To prevent this, when arranging a classic cold attic with wooden beams, it is customary to use two types of building films, which we will conventionally call “Internal” and “External”.
The “internal” film is laid from the inside of the heated room and prevents water vapor from entering the insulation from the room. This film is called a vapor barrier. When installing it, it is necessary to carefully glue all overlaps with butyl rubber tape, achieving tightness over the entire area. Interior decoration performed with a technical gap of at least 3 cm - to prevent local moisture condensation on the vapor barrier.
Rice. 2.1. Cold attic ventilation diagram
The “external” film performs other tasks: it protects the insulation from moisture from the outside (snow, rain, fog), allows water vapor to escape from the system (if it suddenly appears there) and prevents heat from being blown out of the insulation. Some of these functions can be trusted to regular plastic film, but it won’t be possible to complete all tasks at the same time. Most films either have low vapor permeability - and therefore must be installed with a second ventilation gap, or low water resistance - and therefore do not protect against water getting into the insulation. The only type of film that can solve all the problems at the same time is called a “superdiffusion membrane”. Such a membrane has vapor permeability that significantly exceeds the parameters of the insulation, which allows it to be mounted close to it. And high water resistance allows you to protect the system from external moisture in any form.
Thus, the insulation must be protected by a vapor barrier film from the inside and a superdiffusion membrane from the outside. It is a good practice to lay sparse sheathing of boards over the “top” membrane to prevent damage to the film or crushing of the insulation when walking through the attic.
Figure 2.2. Consequences of lack of ventilation (1 year, Minsk region)
Figure 2.2. Consequences of lack of ventilation (1 year, Minsk region)
Concluding the consideration of the design of a cold attic, it is imperative to pay attention to the issue of ventilation. Right organized system ventilation of the roof of a house (Fig. 2.1), despite the possible variety of designs, must have three mandatory components: entry point, ventilation channels and exit point. The entire volume of the attic will serve as a channel for ventilation in a cold attic. For normal operation The temperature inside the cold attic should be equal to the outside temperature. For these purposes, the filing provides entry points for cold air - the so-called “vents”. And in the upper part of the attic you need to create air outlets using dormer windows, ridge or point aerators.
Most often in practice we have to deal with a situation where ventilation is impaired: all vents are sealed with insulation, and air from the street does not get inside. The second common mistake is the absence of dormer windows or aerators in the roof covering. When arranging ventilation, it is worth remembering that the area of the outlet openings should be 10% more area inlets. In this case, sufficient thrust will be created. If the roof ventilation is impaired, then the rafter system is subject to waterlogging, and the roofing material is subject to additional excess pressure from inside the room. This can lead to rotting of the rafter system and loss of its load-bearing capacity (Fig. 2.2.), and premature destruction of the roof covering. Therefore, effective ventilation is a prerequisite for the normal operation of a cold attic system.
In the case of installing a cold attic on a base made of reinforced concrete slabs, the system can be simplified. Since reinforced concrete is vapor-proof and is not susceptible to exposure to open fire, insulation can be made from organic materials. Here you have to choose from two types of polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam. Polyurethane foams are increasingly appearing on objects, but sprayed compositions do not always have the declared stable properties after hardening, and their strength is sometimes insufficient for the dynamic effects of pedestrian loads. Well known granulated polystyrene foam(EPS) is still used in construction today. However, it has already been replaced by more modern extruded polystyrene foam (XPS), characterized by lower thermal conductivity (which reduces the required insulation thickness by 25%), reduced water absorption by 5 times and increased strength. When arranging a cold attic according to reinforced concrete slabs with XPS there is no need to spend cash for the purchase and installation of building films: the material withstands all external influences, is not afraid of blowing and even soaking.
For determining required thickness for thermal insulation, we will use the technique that is described in detail in TKP 45-2.04-43-2006 “Construction heating engineering. Building codes design". According to this document, minimum requirements for the thermal resistance of the structure are established. For a roof, it is taken to be no lower than six, and is calculated by the ratio of the actual thickness of the construction material (in this case, thermal insulation) to its thermal conductivity. Thus, the answer to the question “How to insulate the roof of a house?” - obvious: the required insulation thickness is calculated by multiplying the thermal conductivity of the material by six. This simple mathematics will allow you to create a cold attic that fully complies with all current standards. For complete insulation in our climatic zone you will need 25 cm of stone wool. And when using extruded polystyrene foam- 20 cm will be enough. In a similar way, you can calculate the required thicknesses of the rest thermal insulation materials. For comparison: to obtain a similar indicator by filling with expanded clay, you will need a layer more than half a meter thick!
In the next part we will tell about the device and proper insulation attic (warm attic).
Text: Andrey Povarnitsyn
Insulating a roof attic is required condition, otherwise it will be uncomfortable to be in it: in winter it will be cold, and in summer it will be unbearably hot. Why do you need such an attic if it has unsuitable living conditions? If the attic is insulated, then you can sleep in it and spend time with your family, for example, at the dacha, or simply store some things in it without fear that they will become unusable. The technology consists of the following stages.
First you need to arrange steam and waterproofing and ventilation of the roof. After all, without this it will be impossible to apply a layer of insulation according to all the rules. It's worth applying with quality, considering. It is applied from the inside of the attic so that in winter warm air, rising from bottom to top into the attic, does not harm the structure of the attic roof: it does not create mold and does not activate the process of rotting of boards and damage to wood due to the penetration of microorganisms into it. prevents water from precipitation (snow, rain and hail) from entering the roof, protects against mechanical damage and other falling objects.
As a rule, foam plastic boards with a thickness of 10-15 cm are used. The use of polystyrene foam is characterized by several advantages, namely:
- The insulation does not sag, and the attic space looks beautiful.
- Tight fit of foam boards.
- The insulation does not delaminate.
- The attic space retains its insulation functions.
The process of insulating the attic is divided into 2 stages:
- Insulation of walls.
- Insulation of slopes.
The walls must be subject to thermal insulation treatment both inside and outside. When insulating slopes, a frame is used, which is insulated with polystyrene foam. The frame is also subject to waterproofing and vapor barrier. Polystyrene foam is an insulation material that allows little moisture to pass through the roof, which is, of course, good for insulating the roof (attic floor). Even if there is a crack in the foam, it still protects the roof well from moisture getting into it, but it’s still not worth the risk of allowing the foam to become damaged or suffer mechanical damage.
Features of attic insulation
The process of insulating the attic roof of an attic space is carried out according to the following scheme. The first thing is to properly install the vapor barrier and waterproofing. The second rule is that you need to insulate the entire room with polystyrene foam, and not its individual parts, because complete insulation will give results, while partial insulation may be completely useless. Third rule: if there is no ventilation, then the ingress of condensation can aggravate the situation and not give the desired result from the process of insulating the roof attic. Insulation for the attic can be like this:
- Mineral wool for the attic is the most common and efficient material for insulating the attic. Either mineral slabs or mats are made from wool.
- Vapor barrier films are laid overlapping and sealed with adhesive tape. Vapor barrier is an important condition necessary before the insulation process.
- Expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and other bulk insulation materials.
- Penoplex – perfect option for the attic space.
There are many materials for insulation, a large choice, for every taste and budget, but it’s worth considering everything individual characteristics attic space, capacity and other factors. The main thing in this matter is to approach the process correctly. And then the house will serve you long years– it doesn’t matter whether it’s a cottage or a living space. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0OND8d5LNeQ It’s worth paying attention to insulating the attic more attention than insulating the house itself, since the attic is protection from the outside from all unpleasant atmospheric factors.
In order for the roof to perform its functions efficiently and serve for a long time, it must be insulated. There are a lot of materials and methods for installing a heat-insulating layer, and the choice of the appropriate technology is always done individually. This article will discuss how to properly install insulation on the roof of a private house.
The need for roof insulation
Of course, the final decision about whether the roof needs to be insulated is made by the owner of the house - but before that, you need to weigh all the pros and cons. The latter include additional costs for arranging the roof and the effort required to install the heat-insulating layer.
However, the financial expenses and efforts made will pay off in the future. The main advantage of roof insulation is that after installation, the level of heat loss of the entire building is reduced by an average of 15%. If the under-roof space is not intended to be used as a residential space, then the roof itself does not need to be insulated - the thermal insulation of the roof of the house in this case will be mounted on the attic floor or the ceiling of the living premises. To prevent the structure from rotting, high-quality roof ventilation is required.
Roof insulation will be most relevant when arranging a residential attic, especially if the building is located in a region with a harsh climate. In such cases, if the attic will be used all year round, you will have to pay special attention to the issues of its insulation and heating. Less stringent requirements are imposed on the insulation of summer attics.
How to properly insulate a flat roof
When insulating a flat roof, you need to take into account that thermal insulation can be on both the inside and outside. It is advisable to start with external insulation, and after the first winter decide whether it makes sense to insulate the roof along the rafters from the inside.
A flat roof roofing pie consists of:
- Vapor barrier layer;
- Insulation layer;
- Waterproofing layer;
- Bulk layer.
For external thermal insulation, basalt mineral wool is most often used, which is optimally suited for these purposes. However, you can choose from any type of rigid insulation - for example, expanded polystyrene would be a good option. It is also worth remembering that roof coverings that are prone to fire cannot be insulated with polymer heat insulators.
Insulation of a pitched roof
Thermal insulation of a pitched roof is installed on the rafter system. Before laying insulation on the roof, it is necessary to design it in advance in order to avoid installation errors.
A pitched roof consists of the following elements:
- Roofing;
- Waterproofing layer;
- Thermal insulation;
- Vapor barrier material;
- Interior finishing (optional).
Mineral wool is most often used as a thermal insulation material, which has high performance characteristics and is relatively inexpensive. The main disadvantage mineral insulation is the ability to absorb moisture, due to which the thermal insulation properties are lost over time. In addition, the presence of moisture under the roof leads to the gradual destruction of wooden parts.
To compensate for the described disadvantage, the structure must be supplemented with ventilation, hydro- and vapor barrier. The insulation itself on the roof of the house is laid on the underside of the roof during its arrangement or repair. If we are talking about repairs, then damaged wooden elements should be replaced, and new ones should be treated with protective compounds before installation.
In addition, for effective insulation and reliability, the roof must be well ventilated, so it is necessary to install ventilation ducts between:
- A layer of waterproofing and finishing coating;
- Thermal insulation and waterproofing layer;
- Vapor barrier material and internal lining.
Materials for insulating pitched roofs
Various materials can be used to insulate the roof, the most popular of which are:
- Mineral wool;
- Glass wool;
- Polyurethane foam;
- Expanded polystyrene.
The characteristics and features of the materials differ, but they all adequately protect the roof from temperature effects. It is only worth noting that it is best to select materials produced in the form of slabs - they are much more convenient to install.
To construct a waterproofing layer, ordinary roofing material or a special waterproofing membrane is most often used, which does not allow water to pass through, but ensures the removal of moisture from the heat insulator. When installing waterproofing, you need to ensure that the tightness of the material has not been compromised.
Vapor barriers can be made from different materials, including:
- Ruberoid;
- Polyethylene film;
- Glassine;
- Foil materials.
However, if we are talking about a high-quality vapor barrier layer, then the best option would be a vapor barrier membrane, which works on the principle of one-way moisture transmission - condensate is removed from the insulation and does not enter the internal cavities of the roofing pie.
Algorithm for roof insulation - how to lay thermal insulation
Installation of a roof with insulation comes down to the following sequence of actions:
- First, the installation step of the rafter legs is measured. The heat-insulating material slabs are cut in accordance with the obtained dimensions, but 1 cm is added to them - this will allow the insulation to stay in place on its own. You can simplify this stage of work when installing a new roof by calculating it so that the distance between the rafters corresponds to the width of the insulation boards.
- A waterproofing layer must be installed in the space between the rafters and the finishing coating. The membrane must be attached to the rafters so that it envelops them. For fixation, you can use a construction stapler, which attaches the waterproofing to the rafters and sheathing. Waterproofing material must be applied to the eaves so that the collected moisture escapes beyond the roof. The described method of fastening does not allow for proper ventilation, so only a special waterproofing membrane should be used as a material.
- If waterproofing is already installed under the upper part of the roof, then nails are driven into the rafters every 10 cm so that the distance between them and the membrane is at least 3-5 cm. The driven nails allow you to stretch a cord along the line of which the air gap will pass in the space between waterproofing and thermal insulation material. If the insulation itself is attached using a cord, then the nails will also need to be hammered along the outside of the rafters.
- When using insulation materials produced in the form of slabs, installation is reduced to inserting them into the space between the rafters (naturally, they will have to be compressed a little so that they fit into the gap). Before properly insulating the roof, more rigid materials must be carefully adjusted to fit the gaps in the rafter system. For maximum efficiency, it is worth installing two-layer insulation.
- When installing narrow fragments that require joining along one of the planes, you need to make sure that the joints of the first and second layers of thermal insulation do not coincide with each other. The thermal insulation layer should not extend beyond the rafters, and if this happens, then additional timber will have to be placed on the rafters.
- To attach the insulation, a cord stretched between nails or a lath made of slats can be used. These slats need to be nailed to the rafters at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. In this case, the vapor barrier layer must be attached before the sheathing is installed - due to the thickness of the slats, an air gap is provided.
- When installing a vapor barrier, you need to make sure that the material is installed hermetically. To do this, the joints must be covered with two layers of adhesive tape. Particular attention should be paid to the points where the material connects to the wall and chimney. When all structural elements are installed, you can proceed to the final stage - installation of the sheathing.
Conclusion
Roof insulation is a very important part of the structure, which allows you to increase the thermal efficiency of the roof. Knowing how to properly install insulation on a roof and high-quality performance of all work will allow you to create a reliable and high-quality structure that will perform its functions throughout the entire period of operation.
For a long time in Rus', there were no problems with roof insulation at all: straw was knitted or reeds were dried, and that’s all - the roof of the house was reliably protected from both rain and cold. But modern coatings They do not have any heat-insulating properties at all, and with all the development of progress, up to 30% of all heat leaks through such a roof.
Therefore, if you do not want to warm the atmosphere, study in detail the insulation of the roof from the inside - in this article we will cover all the points!
Conventionally, roof insulation in the construction world is divided into attic, when the roof slopes are insulated, and attic, when the ceiling is thermally insulated.
Like this? We can say that attics also have their own attic - this is the ventilation gap between internal insulation and laid roofing. The fact is that heat, according to all the laws of physics, always rises and seeks its release into the atmosphere. It passes through both the insulation and the vapor barrier, and together with water vapor. And here the external air is pulled in at the eaves plumb, which passes to the ridge and along the way picks up both vapors and excess heat. Through aerators or the same ridge, all this is safely removed and does not cause any problems.
Those. on an ordinary, unused roof, the attic occupies the entire space from the ridge to the attic floor, and on the attic, the attic is just small space under the slopes between the insulation and the roofing. And in insulating both, the type of roof has its own approach, which we will now study.
Cold roof insulation technology
If your roof is cold, then the heat-insulating layer should not be on the slopes, but on the floor of the attic. This is where it stops the heat flow coming from below and prevents the cold from the roof from descending into the living space below. As a result, the temperature in the attic is kept within +1-2 degrees, the roofing material is not heated. In fact, such an attic serves as the necessary air gap between the living rooms of the house and the thin roof covering.
All roll, slab and bulk insulation materials. Because the ceiling has no slope, special requirement it has no thermal insulation material to use: nothing will crumble or become exposed.
Please ensure that after the roof is insulated, there remains properly organized ventilation: there must be dormer windows, located opposite each other, ventilation ridges and aerators, and in the eaves there is round-the-clock access to suck in outside air. As a result, the temperature in non-residential attic should be as close as possible to the street, and the living space below is already separated from it by proper thermal insulation of the ceiling.
Now let's take a closer look at insulating a cold roof.
Insulation with mineral wool
When insulating the attic floor with mineral wool, first of all pay attention to the distance between the slats or joists - it should be slightly less than the roll or mat of insulation.
Typically, thermal insulation of the internal space of the roof is complicated by the uneven surface of the attic floor, differences in its height, a large number of slats and bars, not to mention ventilation pipes and electrical wiring:
Ecowool insulation
If you want the house to breathe and steam to escape easily, then insulate the attic floor with modern eco-wool:
Insulation with blown-in cotton wool
Recently, blowing - roof insulation with blown-in cotton wool has become increasingly popular. The Japanese “insulation” Esbro-Vul II is used here, which does not emit dust and therefore does not create problems. And the blowing method itself is actually quite simple:
- Step 1. Place a vertical ruler on the floor and mark the required height of mineral wool spraying.
- Step 2. Apply insulation in an even layer to the desired level.
- Step 3. We lay the insulation so tightly that it weighs 25 kg per cubic meter.
Note that this type of insulation is the most popular in Japan, and has already found many supporters in Russia.
Glass wool insulation
And finally, glass wool - if you will not use the attic at all. The fact is that even glass wool closed under the sheathing sometimes causes irritation to the ENT organs. This is why you have to wear a respirator and goggles when working with it:
Insulation with sawdust
When insulating a roof with sawdust, follow these instructions:
- Step 1. First of all, you need to protect the wooden structure. To do this, we first apply an antiseptic composition, then fire-bioprotective mixtures, and on top - water-repellent agents.
- Step 2. The next step is to place a backing (cardboard is possible) and close the seams and cracks, if any, with foam (large) or sealant (small). When finished, we trim off the foam that has come out and level it with the beams.
- Step 3. Now we fill in the sawdust in two layers: first the larger fraction, as well as shavings, and then the fine ones, so that dust does not form in the room.
- Step 4. To prevent rodents from growing on the attic floor, add dry lime and small broken glass to the sawdust.
Warm roof insulation technology
The mansard roof is special design. There is also a cold attic here, only it is very small, because... the insulated attic ceiling is pulled almost flush against it using additional sheathing. In fact, there is only space for ventilation, and nothing more. And ventilation serves to ensure that the heat from the attic does not touch the roofing, on which the snow in winter should remain as a heat insulator and not melt.
Here shining example the most standard situation of improper attic insulation: install the cheapest rafters of 15 cm, put fluffy mineral wool in two layers of 5 cm and cover it all with a roofing covering. Ventilation - only 5 cm, without inflow and outlet, because... There was no specialist nearby to advise. As a result, in the summer there is unbearable heat, from which even air conditioners cannot help, and in the winter there is a generous amount of ice on the roof. And all because in this circuit it is the street air that heats up the most. In other words, that very small attic that we talked about must definitely be there, and far from 5 cm.
And in such a roof you need to think through the vapor barrier especially carefully:
And further. The material used to make rafters is always designed for a certain weight. Yes, the roof is under soft tiles You can also build from drywall profiles, just insulate it with heavy basalt wool it is forbidden. Also, the attic roof needs good forced ventilation so that the insulation does not rot or deteriorate. Therefore, carefully read all the points of the master classes we prepared:
Insulation with mineral wool
Follow these simple instructions:
- Step 1. Install hydro and wind protection. If possible, use modern membranes - they are stronger and more durable. In any case, fasten the material with an overlap, and seal all joints with construction tape.
- Step 2. Now measure the distance between adjacent rafters.
- Step 3. Using regular or stationery knife We easily cut the insulation into the required pieces and insert it between the rafters.
- Step 4. We install additional lathing between the membrane and the inner lining.
Please note that you need to attach the vapor barrier membrane smooth side to the insulation, and the fleecy one - already inside the room.
If the distance between the beams is no more than 60 centimeters, it will be more convenient for you to use square insulation mats:
- Step 1. It is advisable to add rough sheathing inside, under the rafters, so that the insulation has something to rest on. Make the distance between the bars about 20-30 cm. Ordinary uncut wood with medium-sized nails is also quite suitable for this purpose, it is only important that the bars are of the same thickness.
- Step 2. After installing the rough sheathing inside the structure, remove all dust and dirt using a construction vacuum cleaner.
- Step 3. Next, we treat all wood with a special agent against fungus, rot and mold. Just use for this purpose not a spray gun, which is less effective, but a regular paint brush. With its help you can achieve deep penetration funds into wood, and this is important.
- Step 4. Allow the product to completely absorb and dry for two to three days.
As a result, all your sheets should lie tightly - a little tighter than you need at first glance. This is the only way to avoid the presence of cracks and subsequent freezing of the roof.
And one more point: ordinary mineral wool slabs are not particularly suitable for insulating roof slopes, because... They don’t stick well between the rafters, but they can be used to insulate gables.
Glass wool insulation
To insulate roof slopes with glass wool, purchase the best, from famous manufacturers. Such glass wool practically does not contain dangerous glass dust, which is what annoys workers the most. Also, it does not highlight after installation. harmful substances, which was even confirmed by the Finnish Institute of Health. After all, it’s one thing to throw this “thorn” onto the ceiling of an unused attic, and another thing to cover it with clapboard in a billiard room or personal account on the attic floor.
Combined insulation
If desired and appropriate, you can insulate the roof from the inside with two different types of insulation at the same time. But one important point must be taken into account - vapor permeability. The fact is that when selecting different insulation materials for an effective combination, we usually only summarize their heat-insulating properties. But their vapor permeability is completely different!
And, if, for example, you put mineral wool down first when insulating, and foam plastic on top, then the water vapor that gets into the wool will begin to tend to the colder part of the roof and bury itself in the absolutely non-breathable foam plastic. As a result, all the insulation will simply suffocate and “delight” with mold. But on the contrary, it is possible: first we put foam plastic on the bottom of the rafters, and then mineral wool on it. If some steam passes through the vapor barrier and the cracks between the foam boards, it will easily overcome the mineral wool and enter the ventilation duct. Therefore, there is such a rule: the top layer of insulation should always have high vapor permeability and thermal conductivity.
And finally, if warm roof will be used as a sauna or additional bathroom, insulation and roofing pie it needs to be thought through especially carefully.
Roof insulation from the inside is carried out not only to install in the attic extra room, but also for maximum heat retention throughout the house.
If the building has an attic roof, then insulation is carried out directly on the roof itself, which is not only the roof for the future room, but also the walls. If the structure has one slope, then most often the thermal insulation is installed in the attic floor.
The third option for thermal insulation measures is used in regions with harsh climates, where both the roof itself and the ceiling are insulated from the inside.
Types of insulation used
The modern building materials market offers quite a lot types of insulation, of which you can choose the one suitable for any thermal insulation work.
- Bulk materials are sawdust, expanded clay of different fractions, slag, dry leaves or pine needles. These insulation materials are used for filling into the attic floor, and they perfectly protect the lower rooms of the house from the penetration of cold, but they will not be able to make the attic itself warm.
- Mineral wool various types, expanded polystyrene, penoflex and polyurethane foam are suitable for insulating both attic floors and.
All these materials are quite light, so they will not weigh down the structure of the roof and the entire house, but will make it much warmer. Technologies for installing thermal insulation materials differ from each other, so it is worth considering some of them.
It should be noted that with the advent of auxiliary materials that facilitate the work process and are aimed at protecting the thermal insulation itself from external influences and their preservation of their performance qualities, it has become easier to carry out the installation process.
Video: mineral wool is an excellent material for roof insulation
Prices for mineral wool
Mineral wool
Vapor barrier coatings
One such material is vapor barrier film. It is designed to protect wooden structures and insulation from exposure to vapors that occur during temperature changes and lead to the formation of condensation. Excessive moisture provokes the appearance of mold, which destroys the structure of the wood, reduces the thermal insulation characteristics of the insulation and contributes to the appearance of an unpleasant odor in the room.
The vapor barrier membrane is fixed to the roof or ceiling structure before laying insulation materials.
When using a vapor barrier film in a heated room, it is placed only under the finishing layer of the walls.
To protect structures that are exposed to high temperatures on one side, and on the other - low, vapor barrier must be located on both sides. Such structures include wooden attic floors and roofing when it is insulated. Concrete plates do not require installation of vapor barrier materials.
The protective film may have different thickness and be different types- a regular non-woven material or a foil membrane. If the latter is used on an attic floor structure, it is laid with foil down, as it reflects the heat rising from below to the ceiling, thereby preventing it from escaping outside. The sheets of material are fastened together with foil tape, which helps create a tight seal.
Prices for various types of insulating films
Insulating films
Insulation of the attic floor
Any insulation measures are best carried out during the process of building a house, but, unfortunately, very often it is done only when they feel the winter cold.
Before filling or laying insulation, you need to carry out preparatory work. This is especially important if fine-grained expanded clay and sawdust slag are used.
- Previously, when there were no modern auxiliary materials on sale, the wooden attic floor was prepared as follows:
— The boards attached to the floor beams were carefully coated with a solution of clay or lime having a medium-thick consistency. These natural materials create good tightness of the ceiling, but at the same time, they allow the entire structure to “breathe”.
— After the clay or lime had completely dried, insulation work was carried out. Previously, slag, sawdust, dry leaves, or a mixture of these materials were mainly used for this. They were poured between the beams onto prepared boards.
It should be noted that the old traditional method- quite reliable, and therefore some builders even prefer it to modern ones to this day.
- IN modern construction Basically, a special vapor barrier film is used for flooring under insulation. Its canvases are laid completely over the entire area of the attic, overlapping by 15-20 cm, deepening between the floor beams and secured to boards and beams. It is recommended to glue the canvases together with construction tape.
The film will become an additional barrier to the escape of heat from the premises of the house through the ceiling, since the heated air rising, not finding a way out, will descend and remain inside the house.
- Next, insulation material is poured onto the film, mineral wool is laid, expanded clay is poured, or the openings between the beams are filled with ecowool. You can also use previously used insulation - slag or sawdust.
- To avoid the occurrence of cold bridges through wooden beams, a layer of thin insulation must also be attached to them.
- Another layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the insulating material, just as before - overlapping. This layer of film is secured to the floor beams with slats, which are more often called counter slats.
- A covering of boards or thick plywood is laid on top.
Sometimes a vapor barrier can be fixed from the inside of the room to a wooden ceiling, but in this case it will need to be finished, for example, plasterboard boards. They will level the ceiling and become another additional insulating layer.
Insulation of roof slopes
When insulating roof slopes, as well as when insulating floors, use mineral wool and polystyrene foam, but mineral wool in this case it is preferable, since it has practically zero flammability.
If you still decide to use polystyrene foam, it is recommended to purchase an extruded version. Although it has a slightly higher thermal conductivity, it is not flammable, and this is very important for wooden structures.
To insulate roof slopes, different systems are used, but they always contain a layer of vapor barrier material, insulation, waterproofing and counter-lattice.
1. This diagram shows one of the options for the insulation “pie”. It is used in the construction of roofs and roof coverings.
- It is laid on the rafter system. Typically, high-density polyethylene (more than 200 microns thick) is used for this layer - it will protect the roof not only from moisture, but from wind penetration under it. The film is laid with an overlap of 20 ÷ 25 cm and secured to the rafters using staples and a stapler.
- A counter-batten with a thickness of 5 ÷ 7 mm is fixed on top of the film on each rafter. It is necessary so that the roofing material does not adhere directly to the waterproofing film, and there is a small distance between them for air circulation.
- Next, if the roof slopes will be covered with soft roofing material, it is necessary to lay plywood on top of the counter-battens. In the case when slate or other rigid sheet material is used, a lath is installed instead of plywood; the width between its slats is calculated according to the length of the sheets of roofing material.
- When the sheathing is ready, the roof is covered with the selected coating.
After this, you can move on to insulation measures, which are carried out from the inside, that is, from the attic.
- Mats of mineral wool or other insulation are laid between the rafters. They should fit as tightly as possible between the elements of the wooden structure. Installation of mats is carried out starting from the bottom, gradually rising to the ridge. The insulation should have a thickness the same as the width of the rafters or slightly less her, approximately 10 ÷ 15 mm.
- The laid insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film, which is secured to the rafters with slats. The film is also overlapped and glued with construction tape.
Final stage — decorative finishing attic walls - Further, if the attic space will be equipped with living room, then the entire surface is covered with plasterboard or clapboard. In addition, in this case, in addition to the walls and ceiling, the floors, that is, the attic floor, are also insulated.
2. Another option could be a thicker insulating “pie”, which is also installed immediately when installing the roof.
- In this case, a waterproofing windproof film is also laid on the rafter system.
- A sheathing for roofing material is placed on top of it.
- Next, from the attic side, the first one is laid between the rafters. a layer of insulation that must have equal to the width of the rafters.
- Then transverse slats are placed on the rafters at a distance from each other equal to the width of the insulation of the next layer. In this case, thinner insulation is used. Its thickness should be equal to the thickness of the padded cross slats.
- After this comes a vapor barrier film, which is secured to the slats with brackets.
- The interior finishing material is then attached to the slats.
If the roof is insulated in an already built house where the roofing covering is fixed, then a vapor barrier is secured to the rafters from the attic side with brackets, and only after that the insulation is laid. Next, the process proceeds in the same way as in the previous options.
Roof insulation from the inside with polyurethane foam
Insulation with polyurethane foam proceeds differently than bulk materials or mineral wool and foam mats.
This method of thermal insulation has recently become increasingly popular and is suitable for both ordinary attics and the attic, which will later become an additional room.
If the attic is ventilated and there will be no living space in it, then only the attic floor is insulated. To do this, it is recommended to moisten the boards and beams for better adhesion, and spray polyurethane foam onto the wet surface between the beams thin layer. After it foams, increases in volume and hardens, if necessary, another layer is applied. Such insulation will be quite enough to keep the house warm, since the foam penetrates into all the cracks and seals them hermetically.
If the height of the attic allows you to build a room in it, or the attic is an attic superstructure to the house, in addition to the ceiling with polyurethane foam, the roof slopes are also insulated.
Spraying begins from the bottom of the structure, gradually rising to the ridge. Foam is sprayed between the rafters, and its lower layers, rising and hardening, will serve as support for the next upper layers applied.
A similar or attic creates a completely sealed, unventilated space. Polyurethane foam will retain heat well indoors winter time and will not allow the attic to overheat on hot summer days. However, ventilation should still be provided, since the room must receive air flow.
This type of thermal insulation has the following advantages over other insulation materials:
- The polyurethane foam coating has no joints or seams throughout the entire insulated area.
- A significant reduction in temperature changes in the attic and rooms on the lower floors is achieved.
- The building receives reliable protection from low and high temperatures affecting the house from the outside.
- This method of insulation shows a high payback in a very short time, by reducing heating costs due to the low thermal conductivity of the sprayed material.
- When spraying polyurethane foam directly onto the roof, it gets extra rigidity and strength, as for the roofing coating forms a reliable connection with the entire roof structure. At the same time, the polyurethane foam layer does not lead to significant weighting of the roof.
- Convenience application - foam closes everything hard to reach places roofs and ceilings, penetrating into all large and small holes and cracks, expanding and sealing walls and floors.
- Polyurethane foam is highly resistant to moisture, to the appearance any form of biological life, high and low temperatures, prevents the occurrence and development of wood decay processes.
- Foam not only provides excellent thermal insulation for rooms, but also insulates well from extraneous noise from the outside.
- Polyurethane foam does not shrink, wrinkle or soften.
- The insulation has a fairly long service life, which is about 30 years.
- The material does not emit toxic substances human body substances and unpleasant odors.
The “disadvantages” of sprayed insulation include the following factors:
- The material is toxic when applied, so you need to work with protective equipment.
Uncured polyurethane foam is quite toxic, so all work is carried out with mandatory skin, eye and respiratory protection. - Polyurethane foam is susceptible to the negative effects of ultraviolet rays, so after applying insulation it must be covered with finishing material, for example, clapboard, plywood or drywall.
- For installation work on insulation with polyurethane foam, you must have special, expensive equipment. True, if you have the skills to work with this material, then the equipment can be rented. But in the case when this work is unfamiliar, it is better not to take risks, but to invite specialists with equipment to spray the material.
Video: spraying polyurethane foam on roof slopes from the inside
Insulation of the attic and roof is necessary for buildings located in most Russian regions, therefore, this process should not be postponed “for later”, but thermal insulation work should be carried out at the stage of building a house. With the exception of the method of spraying polyurethane, all other insulation measures can be carried out independently, following the work technology. If you enlist the help of a friend, roof insulation can easily be completed in a few days.