Roof support on floor slabs. Flat roof on wooden beams: design options and features of their design

We have already talked about the hip roof on the website. There the roof structure was described with the rafters resting on the mauerlat. After publishing the article, I received many requests to show how to make a hip roof with rafters supported on floor beams, and also to answer the question whether it is possible to make a hip roof with different slope angles.

Thus, I wanted to “kill two birds with one stone” with one example. Now we will look at the design hip roof with the rafters supported on the floor beams and with different angles of inclination of the slopes.

So, let's say we have a house box of 8.4x10.8 meters.

STEP 1: Install the Mauerlat (see Fig. 1):

Picture 1

STEP 2: We install long floor beams with a section of 100x200 cm in increments of 0.6 meters (see Fig. 2). I won't dwell on it any further.

Figure 2

The very first to install are the beams that run strictly in the middle of the house. We will navigate by them, setting ridge beam. Then we put the rest with a certain step. For example, we have a step of 0.6 meters, but we see that there are 0.9 meters left to the wall, and another beam could fit, but it doesn’t. We leave this span specifically for “removals”. Its width should not be less than 80-100 cm.

STEP 3: We install the stem. Their pitch is determined when calculating the rafters, about which a little later (see Fig. 3):

Figure 3

For now we are installing only the stems corresponding to the length of the ridge, which will be equal to 5 meters. Our ridge length is greater than the difference between the length and width of the house, which is 2.4 meters. What does this lead to? This leads to the fact that the corner rafter will not be located at an angle of 45° in plan (in the top view), and the angle of inclination of the slopes and hips will be different. The slopes will have a gentler slope.

It is enough to secure the stem on the Mauerlat with nails. We attach them to a long floor beam, for example, like this (Fig. 4):

Figure 4

There is no need to make any cuts in this node. Any cut will weaken the floor beam. Here we use two metal rafter fastenings type LK on the sides and one large nail (250 mm), driven through the beam into the end of the stem. We hammer in the nail very last, when the stem is already fastened to the Mauerlat.

STEP 4: Install the ridge beam (see Fig. 5):

Figure 5

All elements of this structure except the struts are made of 100x150 mm timber. Struts made of boards 50x150 mm. The angle between them and the ceiling is at least 45°. We see that under the outer posts there are beams resting directly on five floor beams. We do this to distribute the load. Also, to reduce the load on the floor beams and transfer part of it to the load-bearing partition, struts were installed.

We determine the installation height of the ridge beam and its length for our home ourselves, making a preliminary sketch on paper.

STEP 5: We manufacture and install rafters.

First of all, we make a template for the rafters. To do this, take a board of the required cross-section that is suitable in length, apply it as shown in Figure 6 and make markings using a small level (blue line):

Figure 6

The height of the block that we placed on the stem to mark the lower cut is equal to the depth of the upper cut. We made it 5 cm.

Using the resulting template, we make all the rafters of the slopes, resting on the ridge beam, and secure them (see Fig. 7):

Figure 7

In such structures, where the rafters are supported not by long floor beams, but by short extensions, we always place small supports under the rafters above the mauerlat, forming a kind of small triangle and relieving the attachment point of the extension to the beam (see Fig. 8):

Figure 8

There is no need to bring these supports further inside the roof, much less place them at the junction of the extension with the beam. Transmitted through them most of loads from the roof (this can be seen in the calculation program) and the floor beam may simply not withstand.

Now a little about calculations. When choosing the section of rafters for a given roof, we calculate only one rafter - this is the slope rafter. It is the longest here and its angle of inclination is less than the angle of inclination of the hip rafters (explanation - we call a roof slope in the shape of a trapezoid a slope, a hip - a roof slope in the shape of a triangle). Calculations are made in the “Sling.3” tab. Example results in Figure 9:

Figure 9

Yes, I forgot to say. Who has already downloaded this calculation program from my website before December 1, 2013? There is no “Sling.3” tab. To download the updated version of the program, go to the article again at the link:

This article has also been slightly adjusted thanks to feedback from some readers, for which special thanks to them.

STEP 6: We add an extension and attach wind boards (see Fig. 10). We add enough stems to leave room for attaching the corner stem. For now, we simply sew the wind boards at the corners together, controlling their straightness. Check visually to see if the corners are sagging. If so, place temporary supports under them directly from the ground. After installing the corner extensions, we remove these supports.

Figure 10

STEP 7: We mark and install corner offsets.

First we need to pull the string along the top of the floor beams, as shown in Fig. 11

Figure 11

Now we take a beam of suitable length (the cross-section is the same as for all stems) and place it on top of the corner so that the lace is in the middle of it. From below on this beam we mark the cut lines with a pencil. (see Fig. 12):

Figure 12

We remove the lace and install the timber sawn along the marked lines (see Fig. 13):

Figure 13

We attach the corner extension to the Mauerlat using two roofing corners. We fasten it to the floor beam with a 135° angle and a large nail (250-300 mm). If necessary, bend the 135° corner with a hammer.

This way we install all four corner offsets.

STEP 8: We manufacture and install corner rafters.

The hip roof that I described earlier had the same angles of slope and hips. Here these angles are different and therefore the corner rafter will have its own characteristics. We also make it from two boards of the same section as the rafters. But we sew these boards together not quite usually. One will be slightly lower than the other (about 1 cm, depending on the difference in the angles of the slopes and hips).

So, first of all, we pull 3 laces on each side of the roof. Two along the corner rafters, one along the middle hip rafter (see Fig. 14):

We measure the angle between the lace and the corner stem - the bottom cut. Let's call it “α” (see Fig. 15):

Figure 15

We also mark point “B”

We calculate the angle of the upper cut β = 90°- α

In our example α = 22° and β = 68°.

Now we take a small piece of board with the cross-section of the rafters and saw one end on it at an angle β. We apply the resulting blank to the ridge, combining one edge with the lace, as shown in Fig. 16:

Figure 16

A line was drawn on the workpiece parallel to the side plane of the adjacent rafter of the slope. We will make another cut using it and get a template for the top cut of our corner rafter.

Also, when we apply the workpiece, we need to mark point “A” on the rafters of the slope (see Fig. 17):

Figure 17

Now we make the first half of the corner rafter. To do this, take a board of suitable length. If one board is missing, we sew two boards together. You can sew it temporarily by cutting an inch about a meter long onto self-tapping screws. We make the top cut according to the template. We measure the distance between points “A” and “B”. We transfer it to the rafter and make the bottom cut at an angle “α”.

We install the resulting rafter and secure it (see Fig. 18):

Figure 18

Most likely, due to its length, the first half of the corner rafter will sag. You need to place a temporary stand under it approximately in the middle. It is not shown in my drawings.

Now we make the second half of the corner rafter. To do this, measure the size between points “C” and “D” (see Fig. 19):

Figure 19

We take a board of suitable length, make the top cut at an angle β, measure the distance “S-D”, make the bottom cut at an angle α. We install the second half of the corner rafter and sew it to the first with nails (100 mm). We drive the nails at intervals of approximately 40-50 cm. The result is shown in Fig. 20:

Figure 20

The upper end of the second half of the corner rafter needs to be sawed down again. We do this with a chainsaw right on the spot (Fig. 21):

Figure 21

In the same way, we manufacture and install the three remaining corner rafters.

STEP 9: We install racks under the corner rafters. First of all, it is imperative to install a stand resting on the junction of the corner extension with the floor beam (see Fig. 22):

Figure 22

If the length of the span covered by the corner rafter (its horizontal projection) is more than 7.5 meters, we install more racks at a distance of approximately ¼ of the span from the top point of the corner rafter. If the span is more than 9 meters, add racks in the middle of the corner rafter. In our example, this span is 5.2 meters.

STEP 10: We install two central hip rafters. At the beginning of the 8th step, we already pulled the laces to measure them.

We make the rafters in this way - we measure the angle of the lower gash “γ” with a small tool, calculate the angle of the upper gash “δ”:

δ = 90° - γ

We measure the distance between the points “K-L” and make a rafter along it. We file the ends at the angles we have determined. After this, the upper end needs to be filed down (sharpened) again, taking into account the angle “φ”, which we also measure using a small tool (see Fig. 23):

Figure 23

STEP 11: Add offset to the corners. We make the outermost extensions, which do not reach the mauerlat, lightweight, from a 50x200 mm board (see Fig. 24):

Figure 24

STEP 12: We install spigots. I described in detail how to make spigots in the first article about. Here the principle is absolutely the same, so I will not repeat it (see Fig. 25):

Figure 25

We attach the brackets to the corner rafters using metal corner 135°, bending it if necessary.

After installing all the frames, all we have to do is hem the cornices from below and make the sheathing. We have already talked about this many times.

The design of a garage roof is significantly different from the roof of a residential building. Many will say that there is nothing complicated here, but, nevertheless, you need to take its design seriously. Its dryness depends on how well the garage roof is made.

The roof structure must reliably protect your car from the adverse effects of the atmosphere.

The simplest and most reliable type of garage floor is made from factory 6- or 7-hollow concrete slabs, placed on the load-bearing walls of the garage.

But if you are already planning a garage as a separate structure or located on the estate, then it is better to use a roof structure with attic space. And in the attic you can place a utility room, such as a warehouse or workshop.

Instead of a slab, you can use a beamed garage floor, which consists of a system of wooden or metal beams.

The combination of materials used and their processing must comply with safety regulations and have the necessary rigidity and reliability.

If you plan to use wooden structural elements, they must be treated with various antiseptics against damage to both insects and the external environment.

Naturally, when using a beam floor system, the main load lies on the beams. Therefore, it is better to use reinforced concrete, metal or wooden beams of sufficient strength. Flooring or beating is laid on top of them. The process of laying a roof is the same regardless of the beams of a particular material used. The choice of beams is influenced by the method of their installation, for example, to install reinforced concrete or metal beams you will need the help of a crane, when wooden beams can be easily installed by the efforts of several people.

Beams should be laid on load-bearing walls in specially left grooves in the masonry. If such grooves were not made during masonry, then they should be made using a chisel and hammer or hammer drill.

Naturally, the beams can be installed on the wall itself; only the gaps between the beams will have to be sealed with bricks. Concrete or metal beams are laid on a layer cement mortar, or even better, on a concrete pad.

After installing the beams in the nests, all voids formed around the end must be sealed with mortar.

As a rule, for our conditions, a flooring device made of boards is used. wooden beams, since it is quite simple and relatively cheap.

The process of installing wooden beams is practically no different from installing beams made of other materials. The only difference is in the additional measure of protection wooden elements designs. Thus, the ends of wooden beams in contact with the walls are treated with bitumen mastic and wrapped in two layers of rolled waterproofing material, for example roofing felt. The ends of the beams will not resin or close. The grooves are also covered with roofing felt and after installing the beams, all voids are sealed with cement mortar.

The thickness of the wooden beams used depends on how often they will be located and the width of the span to be covered. For example, if it is a garage measuring 4 x 4 m with a beam pitch of 100 cm, then wooden beams with a section of 20 x 12 cm should be used. If you reduce the beam pitch to 60 cm, then you can use a beam with a section of 18 x 14 cm.

With a garage size of 5 x 5 m and a distance between beams of 100 cm, you will need beams (beams) with a section of 22 x 16 cm. If you reduce the distance between the beams to 60 cm, then beams with a section of 18 x 14 cm are used.

For absences necessary beams You can use logs or boards knocked together and placed on edge. The total thickness of the boards knocked together must correspond to the thickness of the beam (timber) in place of which they are used. The logs must be dry, peeled and trimmed on at least 3 sides.

Upon completion of the installation and fastening of the floor beams, a ramp is laid on them, which in turn forms the basis for the future ceiling (example in Fig. 175).

Rice. 175. :

1 – floor beam; 2 – cranial block; 3 – roll-up (ceiling base); 4 - glassine or lutrasil; 5 - insulation material; 6 - waterproofing layer; 7 — attic roll (finish attic floor)

The skull blocks should be secured so that they are flush with the underside of the beams. To do this, the knurling elements need to be made with 1/4 cutouts at the ends. For coasting you can use unedged boards or croaker.

If you are planning to do warm attic, then you should immediately think about ways to insulate it. Insulation can be made from mineral wool (glass wool), expanded clay, sawdust, slag or any other known to you thermal insulation material which is not afraid of moisture and temperature changes.

Construction paper or roofing felt is spread over the padded boards.

Instead of these materials, you can apply a dense layer of crumpled fatty clay or a solution of clay and filler (powdered asbestos, chopped straw or sawdust in a parts ratio of 1: 3). Water is added as needed. Once the solution has dried, insulation can be laid or poured over it.

There is no need to compact the insulation material, since the air contained in it provides additional thermal insulation.

The total thickness of the thermal insulation layer should be up to 3/4 of the height of the beams.

If you plan to use mineral wool or another type artificial insulation, then to install it you will need to install a waterproofing layer, both on the bottom and on top of the material.

Installation of wooden flooring carried out after laying the waterproofing layer. First it is spread on the beams roll material, and the logs are laid.

True, you can do without laying joists if there is a small distance between the floor beams. In this case wooden floor the attic is laid directly on the beams.

If you do not plan to use the attic space of the garage, then the insulation of the floor ends after laying the insulating material or filling with expanded clay or gravel.

To give the garage ceiling a more even and attractive appearance, it can be sheathed with plywood, fiberboard, chipboard, sheets of dry plaster, or clapboard.

Garage slabs

Typically, slabs are used in the construction of a stone garage. They are laid directly on the masonry walls, on a previously laid out layer of cement mortar.

Since the slab is fed by a crane and held by it by weight, it can be easily adjusted and put into place as best as possible using crowbars or metal pipes using them as leverage.

After laying the slabs in place, they begin to seal the joints and places of mounting loops with cement or concrete mortar.

The design of the slabs itself is designed in such a way that there are longitudinal voids inside it, which play the role of thermal insulation. But if the roof structure has an attic space, then the slabs should still be covered with a layer of insulating material.

Just as in the previous case, roofing felt, roofing felt or bitumen mastic in order to protect the insulating material from the penetration of condensate and water vapor.

Any building ends with a roof, which is its highest point. The roof protects the building from precipitation, sun rays, winds and frosts, in other words, provides much-needed comfort inside the building. This means that the roof must be stable and strong in order to successfully withstand gusts of wind and rain, and protect from the effects solar radiation, keep warm and be impermeable to dampness. Thus, the roof protects buildings from destruction occurring as a result of atmospheric influences: moisture, freezing and thawing.

Video on how to build a floor using wooden beams

Floors are horizontal diaphragms that divide buildings into floors. The main purpose is to absorb loads from equipment, people, and furniture. Floors are also necessary to act as a stiffening diaphragm, ensuring the overall stability of the building.

What are floor slabs?

It is well known that floors are load-bearing horizontal design any structure and are designed to separate floors from each other. There are attic and interfloor types. During construction and during further operation of the house, it is the floors bear an extremely heavy load, since, in addition to their weight, they must withstand the weight of the part of the building located above them.

Basic elements consisting of heavy prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs, are called parts of floors. Provides sound insulation and warmth top part, and the lower one acts as a ceiling.

IN construction industry Such slabs are usually made of concrete or reinforced concrete. Distinctive feature ribbed reinforced concrete structures is the presence of a gap between the ribs of about 150 cm. They can also serve as coverings reinforced concrete beams , quite tightly fitted to each other. In such cases, in beam floors It is recommended to insert special liners between the beams and concrete the gap formed between them.

You can add steel-stone floors to the list of the most commonly used slab types. You can buy them without any problems at any store. building materials, but it is better to install it in an industrial environment.

IN residential buildings or cottages with brick, block or concrete walls, Reinforced concrete structures are most often used as floors. They are located both along the building and across it, depending on the features of the project. The material for the slabs, in this case, can be light or ordinary heavy concrete of grade 200 or more. Very often, in order to reduce the weight of slabs, as well as save concrete, they are made with longitudinal voids round shape. The width of the slabs can vary between 600-2400 mm, with a length of 2400-6600 mm. If necessary, for large spans without additional installation supports, floors with a structure length of up to 12,000 mm can be produced.

Main functions and characteristics

The plate is a rectangular flat piece metal, stone or other material and is integral part building. In construction, this element carries total weight other parts of the building.

The main characteristics for the overlap are:

strength, due to the need to withstand large design loads;
rigidity, because there should be no noticeable kinks in the ceiling even under significant loads. The permissible value is 1/200 of the span for attic floors and 1/250 of the span for floors between floors;
sound insulation must provide sufficient protection of the room from the transfer of sounds from other rooms located nearby;
thermal protection;
fire resistance;
efficiency implies the least weight with a small thickness;
industrialism of all elements.

The total cost of structures, as a rule, is 15-20 percent of the total cost of the entire building. Therefore, a correct and rational approach to choosing the design of floors will help to significantly reduce the level of financial costs and at the same time maintain all the necessary aesthetic and operational qualities of the structure.

With well-chosen and coordinated sizes structural elements at home, only standard parts can be used in construction.

Classification of floor slabs

What types of floor slabs are there? Reinforced concrete structures are classified according to various parameters, such as the thickness of the slabs, the type of slab support on load-bearing structure, the presence and placement of voids in the body of the slab.

However, as a rule, structures are divided as follows:

Types of reinforced concrete hollow-core slabs

Structures of this type are used as ceilings for the spans of buildings and structures. Their length, as a rule, is 12 m. The width of the floor (PC) is 1 m, 1.2 m or 1.8 m, and the height is usually from 0.22 to 0.31 m. The slab is given special bending strength by the presence it contains reinforced ribs and voids, with a relatively light weight. Hollow-core slabs are best suited for laying communications and electrical wiring.

These structures are also divided into types, depending on their purpose, support options, number of voids and thickness of floor slabs:

reinforced concrete structures with round voids, a diameter of 1.59 m and a floor thickness of 2.2 cm. They are used as supports on two, three or four sides;
reinforced concrete structures with round voids, 1.4 cm in diameter and 2.2 cm thick. Used as support on two, three or four sides;
reinforced concrete structures with round voids, 1.27 cm in diameter and 2.2 cm thick. Designed for support on two, three, four sides;
structures with round voids, 1.59 cm in diameter and 2.6 cm thick. Purpose – support on both sides;
structures with round voids, 1.8 cm in diameter and 2.6 cm thick. Purpose - support in two end sides;
structures with round voids, 2.03 cm in diameter and 3.0 cm thick. Purpose – support on two end sides;
structures with round voids, 1.14 cm in diameter and 1.6 cm thick. Purpose – support on two end sides;
reinforced concrete structures with pear-shaped voids and a thickness of 2.6 cm. Purpose - support on both sides;
reinforced concrete structures with a diameter of 1.59 cm. Purpose - support on both sides.

An increase in the number of floor support planes is indicated by the third letter. Eg:

2PKT - for support on three sides;
1PKK - for support on four sides.

The length in decimeters is indicated by the first two numbers in the design marking. Actual slab size, as a rule, less by 20 mm. Thus, for example, the number 63 indicates that the actual length is 6280 mm.

The second two digits in the marking indicate the width of the structure in decimeters. The actual width is 10 mm less. For example, the number 12 means that the width of the slab is 1190 mm. All slabs are produced standard width, equal to 1.0 to 1.8 m.

Finally, the last figure indicates the load-bearing capacity of the floor, which is measured in hundreds of kilograms per 1 m2.

Listed at the end of the markings alphabetic characters indicate:

AtV - the lower part of the working surface of a reinforced concrete structure is reinforced with previously stressed reinforcement;
t – this slab is made of heavy concrete;
a - means that the floor slab is equipped with sealing liners at the ends of the holes.

Principles for designating the brand of reinforced concrete hollow-core PCs

For symbol For brands of hollow-core reinforced concrete floor slabs, it is customary to use 3 groups, consisting of letters and numbers.

The first group serves to indicate the type of product, its overall dimensions and the type of concrete, as well as the class of prestressed reinforcement.

The second group is intended to indicate the design load on the product, measured in kilopascals, as well as the standard number for bearing capacity. At the same time, the class of prestressed reinforcement for prestressed slabs is also designated.

The third group denotes complementary characteristics that are necessary to reflect special conditions use reinforced concrete floors and specific nuances of such structures.

According to the rules for marking on floors, all necessary indicators are applied to lateral surface slabs. Marking inscriptions are usually divided into installation, basic and informational. The main ones, in turn, consist of:

grades of reinforced concrete structures;
name of the company that manufactured the product and is registered trademark manufacturer;
a stamp confirming the passage of technical control.

Advantages of some types of floor slabs

Among specialists, the most widespread are hollow-core structures, which have some advantages over monolithic ones:

due to the fairly large scale of production, the cost of such plates is very affordable even for an ordinary private developer;
the voids present in the body of the slab increase the level of sound insulation of the floor;
It is convenient to lay various communications through the voids, such as an alarm system or an electrical cable;
the voids significantly reduce the weight of the slab, thereby significantly lightening the load on the foundation;
By using pre-stressed reinforcement in the slab structure, it is possible to significantly increase both its strength and performance qualities.

Reinforced concrete slabs used as floors, are a cost-effective choice and allow you to install the main frame of the building in the shortest possible time.

Today, a flat roof is not the most obvious solution to the roofing issue. But in Switzerland and Germany, this particular type of roof began to gain increasing popularity. It is possible that in the near future European fashion will come to us.

Increasing popularity flat roof The following factors contribute:

Ease of installation of the roofing pie. All materials are laid on a flat surface directly under your feet.
A flat roof has better heat transfer. The roof area is evenly heated throughout the sunny day.
Opportunity beneficial use space. You can make a summer terrace on the roof, install a small pool, etc.

But there are also disadvantages:

Flat roof wears out faster. It will have to be repaired more often, although this is not difficult.
On a flat roof winter period A large amount of snow accumulates. Firstly, it creates unnecessary power load. Secondly, if it is not removed, over time it will begin to melt, and there may be so much water that it will somehow find its way through the roof.
There is an opinion that a flat roof is cheaper than a pitched roof. This is not so, and if you calculate all the costs, which include: floor slabs; slope-forming screed; insulation that experiences high compressive loads, and is therefore more expensive than pitched roof; waterproofing; installation of parapets - it becomes clear that a flat roof will cost more.

Traditional or inversion roofing

Before you make a flat roof with your own hands, you need to choose the type of roofing pie. It can be traditional or inversion.

The fundamental difference lies only in the order in which the flat roof elements are laid.

The traditional type involves first installing a vapor barrier, then thermal insulation, and only then waterproofing. This allows you to protect the insulation, but puts it at risk waterproofing material. The inversion type involves the installation of waterproofing, followed by thermal insulation. Thus, the waterproofing material is protected from temperature changes and excessive pressure.

The installation of a flat roof in a private house most often involves the use of a traditional type, and that is what we will consider in this article.

Preparing the base

Preparation of the foundation begins immediately after construction load-bearing walls. It directly depends on whether the roof will be used or not. Can be made from:

Reinforced concrete slabs, subject to the construction of walls made of bricks, blocks or concrete panels.
If the roof is not in use, it is possible to install a base made of corrugated sheets on iron beams. Profiled sheets must have sufficient wave height, type N-153.
A flat roof in a private house allows installation wooden slabs ceilings on wooden beams. They are used only on unused small-area roofs. They are laid with a gap of two millimeters, which is subsequently compensated by thermal expansion.
Can be used wooden planks minimum thickness 40 mm and a maximum width of 180 mm. They are also stacked with small interval. Suitable for used roofs.

When using wood, do not forget to treat it with antiseptics and fire retardants to increase durability and fire resistance.

Deflection device

The next stage is the deflection device. Necessary for draining water to gutters.

A screed is poured over reinforced concrete slabs with an approximate slope of 2-5 degrees. This is approximately 2 centimeters of slope per 1 meter. It is possible that the screed will be preceded by a backfill of expanded clay. Also, a slope can be created using a special wedge-shaped insulation.
The construction of a flat roof using corrugated sheets involves the implementation of a slope at the stage of installation of the base. That is, profiled sheets are initially laid with a slope of 2 centimeters per meter. If this was not done, it was permissible to use wedge-shaped insulation or make a slope-forming screed made of polystyrene concrete.
Wooden slabs are also initially laid with a slope. In its absence, wedge-shaped insulation is used.

When constructing a roof base from corrugated sheets or wooden slabs, the walls of the box are initially made with a slope of the right side to facilitate subsequent installation of floor slabs.

Let us note that using wedge-shaped insulation will cost you more than arranging a slope using a screed, and even more expensive than installing a slope at the stage of installing floor slabs.

Vapor barrier

Vapor barrier is used only in the construction of a traditional type of flat roof. It is necessary to prevent the penetration of vapors from the room to the insulation. For vapor barrier, specialized films are used. They are laid with an overlap of 10 cm. The joints are carefully taped with adhesive tape. The film is glued no less carefully in places adjacent to various kinds protrusions (parapet, steps, etc.). It is attached to the base using construction stapler or special galvanized nails.

Bitumen-containing materials, such as roofing felt, can be used as a vapor barrier. They are attached to the base using gas burner, the joints are glued in the same way. Also, modern market offers construction materials self-adhesive films, for installation of which no additional materials are required.

Please note that ballast roofing does not require mechanical fastening vapor barrier to the base.

In turn, ballast roofing is a roofing for the finishing coating of which weighting materials are used - paving slabs or loose washed gravel.

Thermal insulation

Do not forget that before making a flat roof for a house, you need to decide on the slope-forming layer. The type of insulation will depend on this.

The insulation is laid in several layers. To prevent the formation of cold bridges, each subsequent layer must overlap the joints of the lower one. To glue layers one to one, use polyurethane glue. In its absence, the use of polyurethane foam is allowed. Also, polyurethane foam All possible holes and cavities are sealed.

Before installing the thermal insulation layer, you must ensure that there is no moisture on the vapor barrier. It is better to carry out the installation itself in parts. That is, lay several squares of thermal insulation, followed immediately by waterproofing on top. This is necessary so that in case of rain the insulation does not get wet.

Waterproofing

One of the most important stages Do-it-yourself flat roof installations - waterproofing. Can be made from:

Bituminous materials, roofing felt.
Bitumen-polymer materials, euroroofing felt.
PVC films.
Liquid rubber.

Let's take a closer look at each of the materials.

Ruberoid is the simplest, cheapest, but also the most short-lived of all. Stacked on concrete base, or insulation resistant to impact high temperatures. Its service life is only 5-10 years. To install it you will need: a gas burner, a painting knife, a spatula, a brush and a primer for roofing felt. The work order is as follows:

Primer treatment.
After it has completely dried, the roofing material is rolled out and allowed to rest for 24 hours.
They glue it with mastic. Don’t forget to carefully apply the waterproofing to the protrusions.
The joints (minimum overlap of 7 cm) are processed with a torch.
After the first layer, lay the second one. The sequence of actions is the same, with the exception of primer treatment. The lower the slope, the more layers, up to four.

Bitumen-polymer waterproofing will last an order of magnitude longer. The installation procedure is as follows:

Cleaning the base from dust, dirt and moisture.
Primer treatment.
Installation of material using a gas burner. If the roofing felt was glued with mastic, then there is no need to do this here. The burner heats the entire width of the roll, but it is very important not to overmelt the material, otherwise it will become too brittle. Especially for this purpose, a pattern is applied to the rolls; as soon as it begins to deform, it can be rolled out further. Waterproofing adheres to the base wooden mop. Minimum overlap 8 mm.
In some cases, when installing a flat roof with your own hands, installing the first layer using a burner is difficult to accomplish. Then use mechanical fastening in increments of 50 cm.

Due to the need to use highly specialized tools PVC installation membranes and liquid rubber becomes almost impossible without the involvement of specialists. Therefore, it makes no sense to consider these materials in detail. We only note that both types of waterproofing are quite durable.

Drainage system

A flat roof in a private house can have several types of drainage systems:

Interior.
External controlled.
External uncontrolled.

We’ll immediately discard the last option, since it is used mainly for outbuildings.

External controlled drainage involves collecting and draining water using gutters located on the outside. To drain water, special holes are made in the parapet.

The internal one is mounted directly into roofing system, even before it was collected roofing pie. Due to this, its installation is more complicated, but in this case the drain can be hidden inside the building. In this regard, the issue of water drainage must be resolved before making a flat roof.

Concrete roofs are typically flat surfaces. Such roofs are economical, reliable and durable, and also have long term operation. Such garage roofs are made from monolithic casting or ready-made reinforced concrete slabs, which require appropriate coating in the future. Read the instructions on how to cover a garage roof with bicrost.

What to cover with?

To the question of what is the best way to cover a garage roof made of concrete slabs, quite recently the answer was quite obvious - roofing felt. Since the technology for installing roofing felt sheets involves the use of mastic or roofing felt, the work is not very safe, and is also labor- and time-consuming. Currently, new and improved roofing materials with improved characteristics, accordingly the use of roofing felt began to fade into the background.

A modern analogue of roofing felt is Bikrost, which is a roll-type soft roof. Installation process of this material much simpler, it only requires the use of a gas burner to melt the adhesive layer, as well as a roller, a roofing mop and a primer, which is applied to the working surface of the roof before laying Bikrost. If we compare Birkost with roofing felt, the former is more flexible and has an increased service life.

The process of laying Bikrost on concrete and reinforced concrete roof consists of several stages:

Cleaning and leveling the working base;
Application of a special primer for better adhesion of Bikrost to the roof surface;
After the primer has completely dried, Bikrost is directly laid, which is rolled out across the surface across the slope of the roof;
Overlaps at the ends must be at least 15 cm, and at the edges at least 10 cm;
A gas burner is necessary to heat the Bikrost base, and then use a roller to roll out the material, gluing it to the roof surface.

How to make a concrete screed?

Installation concrete screed for a garage roof is a rather complicated and time-consuming process, but it's worth it. This roof has excellent waterproofing properties, and also eliminates deformation that may be caused by the load from large quantity snow.

The phasing of work must be strictly observed:

At the level of the top of the garage walls, floors are constructed from metal or wooden guides, which are laid horizontally. Further along long walls and the floor elements are attached on top of the guides. Their length should be longer garage approximately 15 centimeters on each side.
Then the boards are laid end-to-end on the ceiling and additionally secured with guides with external parties garage walls.
Sheets of roofing material are laid on top of the ceiling with an overlap of 10-15 cm to ensure good waterproofing.
Insulation in the form of mineral wool, or expanded clay.
After laying the insulation, a screed made of a solution of cement and fine sand is applied on top.
The screed is poured slowly, filling all voids and cracks. The surface of the screed is leveled using a wooden strip.
The screed dries within a few days; only after complete drying is another layer of waterproofing and finishing coat applied.

How to pour concrete?

Look at the view clear example how to fill a garage roof with concrete:

You can cover a concrete garage roof without a burner with roofing felt or waterproofing. Soft roof roll type is excellent option for covering concrete roof. In addition, you can use liquid rubber, which is in Lately is very popular. Read the guide on how to calculate the foundation for a garage.

An excellent roof for a concrete or expanded clay concrete garage roof base would be Bikrost or Corrugated Sheet.

The ceiling for a garage roof made of foam concrete is usually made of a single slope. In addition, this roof option is the most common among garage construction.