Feeding flowers in May. Organic fertilizers for garden flowers

No garden plot is complete without even a small garden flower bed. Flowers are capricious plants and can’t wait without proper care. wild flowering will not work. They especially “like” feeding, but it is important to know what fertilizers can and should be used.

Annual flowerbed residents are less picky. Feeding can be done only twice per season and this will be quite enough.
· The first application of fertilizers should be done two weeks after planting flower seedlings in open ground.
· The second feeding should be done in mid-June. It is during this period that the plants begin to form buds.

Fertilizers for perennial flowers need to be applied three times.
· The first fertilizing is carried out in early spring after the soil has dried, when the surface of the flower bed can be loosened.
· The second - during the period when buds began to appear on the flowers.
· The third application of fertilizer is carried out after flowering has completed. This must be done. And here's why: the formation of flower buds in perennials begins after they bloom. To admire without it beautiful flowerbed It's unlikely to happen next season.

Organics to help: how to use available fertilizers this group

Many flowers prefer naturalness to chemical fertilizers. For example, getting the lush color of peonies, roses, dahlias and clematis without using organic matter is quite problematic.

React well to application organic fertilizers and annual flowers. The main thing here is not to overdo it, because otherwise you can get a gorgeous green mass to the detriment of the buds.

It is best to use manure obtained from cows or horses for such feeding. Why? Animals receive food exclusively plant origin. In this case, horse manure can be used in “fresh” form. But the mullein should not be left to rest less than a year, since it is during this period that it manages to digest and turn into high-quality humus.

When applying, it is best to use an infusion of manure. It is prepared as follows:
· a kilogram of manure is taken per ten-liter bucket of water;
· The container must be closed with a lid and left for a day.

When watering, the composition must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:2 and then watered the ground. After it dries a little, it is advisable to loosen it.

Chicken droppings: method of use

The use of chicken manure gives excellent results. If it is not possible to get fresh, then you can buy granulated (the effect will be identical).

First you need to prepare a liquid-like mass from the droppings. To do this, transfer the existing material - fresh droppings or granulated - into a bucket and fill it with water. In this form it should stand for two weeks. When fertilizing, add half a liter of the resulting composition to a bucket of water. Watering must be done carefully so that the composition does not get on the leaves of the plant.

Ash - another component from which you can prepare fertilizer. Here a glass of ash is placed on a bucket of water.

Banana peels and potato peelings can be used as fertilizer. They need to be put in a bucket and filled with boiling water. The infusion should stand under the lid for a week. Only after this can it be used for feeding.

Mineral fertilizers

Not all flowers like organic matter; for example, when manure is added to asters, they begin to get sick and may die. Nasturtium and marigolds begin to actively increase green mass to the detriment of flowering (the buds turn out small and inconspicuous). You should not use manure when stimulating bulbs - hyacinths, tulips and daffodils. For these groups of plants it is better to use mineral fertilizers.
· After planting flowers in a flower bed, it is recommended to fertilize with nitrogen compounds. This will allow them to grow foliage.
· During the budding period, phosphorus-potassium mixtures should be used. They will ensure abundant and long-lasting flowering.
· At the end of the flowering period, potassium mixtures must be added to perennial flowers. This will help the plants lay a sufficient number of flower buds to please the eye with a variety of flowers next year.

There are several periods in the life of a flower bed when the plants inhabiting it need support. What to “feed” plants so that they can please us with luxurious flowering?

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blooming flower bed

A healthy body has a healthy color

During certain periods, active processes occur in plant tissues. We can say that plants are “building” something: in the spring - shoots and leaves, in the summer - buds, flowers, and then seeds; closer to autumn, perennials lay buds for flowering in next year. We can help by providing our pets with “boosted nutrition” as their own nutritional reserves may be lacking. As they say, they will live, but they will bloom - that’s up to you.

In fact, the preparation of a plant for flowering begins from the moment the sprout emerges from the ground. it is possible only if the above-ground part (plant body) is well developed, and this is facilitated by nitrogen. There is a lot of this substance in organic matter: manure, bird droppings, humus. Spring watering with a solution or infusion of one of these fertilizers is worth a lot: the plants immediately grow, begin to increase green mass, and thicken the shoots. But keep in mind that not all plants like organic matter. For example, bulbs cannot tolerate it, their development with such feeding slows down in all respects, and there is a high risk of bulbs rotting. Those fed with organic matter feel depressed. At first, asters can begin to grow, even forming lush bushes with many shoots. Therefore, it is very disappointing when they get sick and die. By the way, experienced gardeners never plant asters in areas that were fertilized with manure or bird droppings the previous year. Tagetes (marigolds) and nasturtium do not “respect” organic matter too much. They will not get sick from such a “menu”, but the flowers will most likely form small ones. These flowers are fed only mineral fertilizer: both in spring and summer. The rest will thank you for their organic meal with luxurious blooms.

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blooming flower bed

On the eve of flowering

Substances that can help plants prepare for flowering - Phosphorus ensures normal respiration of plant tissues, and potassium helps them absorb water. Without this, even if the buds set, they will fall off or develop into flowers that are not pleasing with their size and splendor. In addition, flowering will be short-lived. Not good experienced florist It’s difficult to understand the “official” names of fertilizers (phosphate, superphosphate, urea, etc.), so it’s better to follow the manufacturers’ tips. For example, if you buy “Bud” or “Ovary” fertilizer, you can’t go wrong. In any case, it is better to buy fertilizers in packages rather than in bulk - you can read on the label when and for what purpose it is used.

From folk remedies For abundant flowering, fertilizing with an ash solution is effective (ash contains not only potassium and calcium, but also 2/3 of the periodic table). To prepare an ash solution, stir 1 cup of ash in 10 liters of water. Although you can enhance the effect by feeding the plants not with a solution, but with an infusion of ash: to do this, it is infused under a closed lid in the sun for 7-8 days.

Good potash fertilizers are obtained from potato peelings and banana peel. This valuable waste is poured hot water and leave for 1 week, during which the beneficial substances contained in them pass into the water. By the way, watering with banana infusion is useful not only before flowering, but also during it: the plant continues to form new buds, as a result of which the flowering period is extended.

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blooming flower bed

Plants will respond wonderfully to watering with infusion eggshells in the period preceding flowering. The shell contains not only calcium, but also potassium, phosphorus, zinc, magnesium, etc. None of this will be superfluous for the formation of buds and their development into beautiful flowers.

A special conversation about watering flowers in a flower bed with “green manure” - fermented herbal infusions. Someone said that weeds are flowers that no one likes. Be that as it may, both weeds and cultivated plants in its own way internal organization"match 99%. Plus, weeds have an advantage: a developed ability to survive. During the preparation of the infusion, useful substances that the plant is rich in pass into the liquid. And the plant, which is subsequently fed with such an infusion, consumes them selectively: depending on the what does he need this moment necessary. Therefore, you can water the flowerbed with herbal infusions almost all the time - from spring to autumn. But infusions should not be too concentrated (1 liter of infusion per 10 liters of water is enough). The recipe for preparing this most valuable fertilizer is simple: fill the container halfway with grass, fill it to the brim with water, and close it with a lid. In the sun, after a few days the contents begin to ferment, and after a week you can already feed your flowers.

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blooming flower bed

I say goodbye to you, but farewell is not for us...

If annual flowers gradually die off at the end of flowering, they do not even rest: already a month after their last flowers have withered, they begin to form flower buds for the next season. And feeding them at this time is very desirable. The best thing you can offer them is potassium. By the way, this substance not only has a positive effect on next year’s flowering, but also makes it less vulnerable to frost.

Feeding your green and flowering garden favorites two or three times is not difficult. Rest assured, they will pay for the effort expended a hundredfold, delighting you with their beauty.

Fertilizers are commonly called substances that, when applied to the soil, help improve its properties. In addition, the elements contained in the composition have a beneficial effect on the development of plants, as they are their main nutrition and contribute to the full development of flora representatives. Today it is not difficult to buy any fertilizers for flowers, but you can also make them yourself. The article will discuss all the necessary microelements for plants.

Fertilizers, depending on their origin, can be mineral or organic. In turn, they can be in liquid or solid form and have a direct or indirect effect on plants. The methods of introducing them into the soil also differ, so some nutrient mixtures are applied superficially as top dressing, while others must be mixed with the soil during planting.

Mineral fertilizers for flowers

The main purpose of applying mineral fertilizers is to fill the soil with special elements, which are the main source of nutrition for garden flowers. These elements include potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus.

Nitrogen fertilizers for flowers

Nitrogen is the main component of this group. It promotes the development of the ground part of flower crops. It is customary to highlight the following types:

Ammonia or ammonium fertilizers

Ammonium sulfate (ammonium sulfate).
Ammonium chloride (ammonium chloride).

Fertilizers of this type are best absorbed by the roots of flowers growing on slightly acidic soils; they can be applied in spring or autumn period.

Ammonia forms of nitrogen fertilizers contain approximately 20-25% nitrogen. It is undesirable to apply such substances for a long time, as this can lead to an increase in soil acidity. If long-term use is necessary, the soil should be deoxidized, for example, with lime or dolomite flour. Flowers with a long growing season are partial to this type of feeding: carnations, begonias, asters and lobelias.
Ammonium sulfate remains in the soil for a long time and tends to be washed out slowly, so it can be used on highly moist soils or before winter. Externally it looks like white or grayish-green crystals.

Ammonium chloride is produced in the form of white crystals; it is not advisable to apply it as a top dressing, since excess chlorine depresses garden flowers.

Nitrate fertilizers

A sodium nitrate.
Calcium nitrate.

Fertilizers of this group are easily soluble in water and contain up to 15% nitrogen in the form of acid.

It is best to apply nitrate fertilizers to the ground in autumn or early spring at the rate of 25 g per 1 m2. Can be used on acidic soils in the form of liquid fertilizer. For the entire growing season of flower crops, it is necessary to apply no more than 150 g per 1 sq. m. m. of soil.
Sodium nitrate comes in the form of white or pale yellow crystals and is beneficial to most garden flowers. Optimal timing When applied to the soil, the period of appearance of the first shoots is considered, since the nutrients contained in the fertilizer contribute to the rapid growth of plants. It is not recommended to mix it with superphosphate and apply it on solonetzic soils; at the same time, a good effect can be achieved by adding potassium fertilizers to sodium nitrate.
Calcium nitrate is available in the form of a white or yellow-pink powder. Long-term storage is undesirable, since the mass quickly cakes and clumps. Application is particularly effective on acidic soils and solonetzes.

Ammonium-nitrate fertilizers

Ammonium nitrate.

This is a universal fertilizer that does not accumulate in the soil and is applied from March to July before planting.

Flowers respond favorably to such nutrition and absorb it immediately upon application. It contains ammonium salt of nitrate (nitric acid), where the nitrogen reserve is up to 35%.

Ammonium nitrate is produced in the form of white and yellowish granules or balls, which are treated with a moisture-resistant composition, but it is worth considering that ammonium salts absorb water very strongly, so it is necessary to keep the fertilizer away from moisture, otherwise the clumping process may begin.
Nitrate does not concentrate in the soil and dissolves quickly, so it can also be used during dry periods. It is especially effective in combination with elements such as potassium and phosphorus.

Amide fertilizers

Urea (urea).

A substance that is highly soluble in water, when added to the soil it gives the effect of weak acidity, therefore, where an increase in acidity is undesirable, the soil must be limed.

Urea is produced in the form of white granules, but can also have a crystalline form.
Urea is used as an instant fertilizer and contains up to 45% nitrogen. In the ground, nitrogen turns into ammonium carbonate.
Urea should be added to the soil in advance, in early spring or before autumn plowing. It is also possible to use amide substances in the form of an aqueous solution during watering, or directly mixing with the soil under the plant during loosening.

All nitrogen fertilizers are water-soluble, therefore, for flower crops good nutrition, they do not need to be embedded deep into the ground and it is advisable to apply them after sowing or planting. It is optimal to use it as a top dressing, which is done several times a season.

Advice: when fertilizing with nitrogen-containing substances, you should follow the instructions, since a large amount of nitrogen has a detrimental effect on flower crops.

Phosphorus fertilizers

The main element of this group of fertilizers is phosphorus. It is customary to distinguish several types according to the degree of solubility.

Water-soluble phosphorus fertilizers

Simple superphosphate.
Double superphosphate.

Such fertilizers are used on any type of soil.

Superphosphates are obtained from phosphorite, apatite or sulfuric acid. Manufacturers produce fertilizer in the form of granules or white and gray powder. It is recommended to add superphosphates to the soil during planting of flower crops, but it is also possible to add them in the fall before digging.
Simple superphosphate contains approximately 15-20% phosphorus. Double superphosphate is a more concentrated fertilizer and contains up to 40% phosphorus. Calcium sulfate or sulfur is used as ballast. In addition, a number of trace elements such as magnesium, molybdenum, manganese or boron can be added to superphosphates.
Superphosphates are very well absorbed by flower crops, both in the form of an aqueous solution and when directly applied to the soil.

Semi-soluble phosphate fertilizers

Precipitate.

To dissolve this fertilizer, weak acids are used, since it does not dissolve in aquatic environment, i.e., for plants to obtain useful substances, the precipitate must be added to acidic and slightly acidic soils, thoroughly mixing with the soil.

This fertilizer is available in the form of gray or white powder and its phosphorus content reaches 35%. It is advisable to apply it to the ground in the fall for digging.

Sparingly soluble phosphorus fertilizers

Phosphorite flour.

Phosphorite flour is produced in the form of a brown or gray powdery substance, which is insoluble in water and slightly soluble in acids.

This is ground phosphorite, the phosphorus content of which reaches 30%. Fertilizer is added directly to the soil around the plants, and it is desirable that the soil has high acidity.
Phosphorite flour can benefit plants growing on peat and podzolic soils, since it simply does not dissolve in slightly acidic soils, and therefore is not absorbed by flower crops. It is optimal to mix this substance with manure or urea. The effectiveness of the fertilizer occurs after a long period of time; it is optimal to apply it during autumn digging.
With prolonged use of phosphate rock, the acidity of the soil decreases. The powder is most often used to fill compost pits. When a large amount of fertilizer is applied, it can nourish plants for several years, so it is good to use for feeding perennial garden flowers.

All phosphorus fertilizers have the property of slowly penetrating into the soil. Phosphorus is important element for the full development of plants, it has a positive effect on the splendor and duration of flowering. It is necessary to regularly replenish its reserves in the ground and timely apply fertilizers from the phosphorus group. Optimal time application is in the autumn or early spring; as a rule, it is not used as water feeding.

Potassium fertilizers for flowers

The main element of this group is potassium.

Concentrated chloride salts

Potassium chloride.

This substance is produced in the form of gray, cream and white powder or crystals, containing up to 60% potassium.

Potassium chloride is well absorbed by garden flower crops. In addition, it can be mixed with almost any chemical element and applied to most types of soil. Potassium chloride is completely soluble in water and can strongly absorb moisture, so it cakes when stored in damp places.
Potassium acidifies the soil; its optimal application is after liming. Since the fertilizer contains chlorine, crops that react negatively to this element should be applied in limited quantities. Potassium chloride is added to the soil in the autumn, then by spring most of chlorine is washed out. Ornamental cereals respond well to the use of potassium fertilizer.

Concentrated sulfuric acid salts

Potassium salt.
Potassium sulfate.

Potassium salt is produced in the form of yellowish-red crystals and contains up to 38% potassium.

It is a potent fertilizer and can be applied to almost any garden flowers. It is best to use potassium salt in the fall. Fertilizer is obtained by mechanically combining potassium chloride with kainite and sylvinite.
Potassium sulfate contains up to 50% potassium and is a chlorine-free fertilizer. It is a white crystalline powder with a slight tint of yellow. It is considered the best potassium fertilizer for most crops, due to its excellent solubility in water. It can be applied as the main fertilizer, as well as in the form of autumn and spring fertilizing. Plants growing on turf, peat and podzolic soils are demanding of potassium sulfate. But you should not feed plants growing on light soils in the autumn, since under the influence of moisture the microelement is washed out of the soil.

Applying potassium fertilizers in the fall helps plants better prepare for winter. Flax and citrus fruits respond well to the use of potassium sulfate. It can be mixed with almost any other fertilizer, except those that contain calcium.
Potassium dissolves in water, but slowly penetrates into the soil, so if the soil has a clay or loamy composition, then potassium fertilizers must be applied in such a way that it is in close proximity to small flower roots. Then the nutrients will reach the plant faster. Flowers growing on sandy soils need such fertilizers the most. Potassium increases plant resistance to disease and is most often used in combination with other elements, such as phosphorus, nitrogen, copper, iron, zinc or magnesium.

Complex fertilizer for flowers

Modern chemical industry is trying to achieve new forms of complex fertilizers that would combine all the nutritional elements necessary for plants.
Plants need constant nutrition. In each period of growth, flowers must receive required amount certain mineral fertilizers. Thus, in young flower crops root system is poorly developed and located close to the soil surface, so fertilizers should be applied shallowly.
When applying any fertilizer, you must try not to burn the tender parts of the plant, that is, dilute the fertilizer with water and water the soil around it.
For most flowers to grow fully and bloom abundantly, it is necessary to add not just one element, but several at once. In this regard, complex mineral fertilizers, which contain 2 or more elements, have become very popular. For example, nitrophoska (nitrogen-potassium-phosphorus mixture) or ammophos (phosphorus-nitrogen mixture).

Complex fertilizers, depending on the manufacturing method, can be:

Complex- obtained by chemical reaction, characterized by the absence of ballast substances;
Combined- obtained by chemical or physical reaction from primary raw materials, main feature considered to have highly concentrated essential nutrients;
Mixed- obtained by dry mixing simple fertilizers.

Most popular types complex fertilizers:

Ammophos- produced in the form of gray granules, contains up to 12% nitrogen and up to 50% phosphorus, a water-soluble fertilizer, the main disadvantage of which is that it contains 4 times less nitrogen than phosphorus, and, as a rule, flower crops require equal amount these elements;
Nitrophoska- produced in the form of gray granules with a slight pink tint, containing 12% potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen, all substances are in an easily accessible form that is easily absorbed by plants. Fertilizer is applied in early spring before sowing, and is also used in the summer as top dressing;

Nitroammofoska- comes in the form of gray-pink granules, contains 17% potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen and 2% sulfur, can be used on any type of soil;
Nitrophos- produced in the form of granules, used for most garden flowers, containing 6% nitrogen, 11% calcium and 16% phosphorus;
Diammofos- produced in the form of gray granules and contains 20% nitrogen, 50% phosphorus;
Diammofoska- produced in the form of dark gray granules, contains 10% nitrogen, and 26% potassium and phosphorus each, in addition, the composition includes elements such as iron, calcium, zinc, magnesium and sulfur. Thanks to this composition, fertilizer can be applied to almost any type of garden flowers;
Ammophosphate- produced in the form of granules, contains up to 6% nitrogen and up to 45% phosphorus, used for spring application to the soil.
In addition, among mineral fertilizers there are: microfertilizers containing one specific element (zinc, copper, boron, iron, magnesium).

There are also polymicrofertilizers, that is, which contain several microelements. When using such fertilizers, it is necessary to strictly observe the dosage, since an excess of microelements is harmful to the full development of plants.

Many microfertilizers are used as foliar feeding; such spraying acts faster, but its effect is less long-lasting than that of fertilizer applied to the soil.

Tip: not every soil composition has a balanced set of nutrients, so sandy soils are in great need of magnesium, nitrogen and potassium supplements, peat soils need molybdenum and copper, chernozem needs manganese, clay soils poor in manganese and iron. It is necessary to take into account the composition of the soil when applying one or another type of fertilizer.

Organic fertilizers for flowers in the country

Second large group fertilizers are called organic. They consist of the remains of various organisms (plant or animal waste) and microorganisms, whose active actions help to decompose these remains.

Manure and bird droppings

Animal manure is the most commonly used organic fertilizer. Its composition differs depending on the type of animal.

Bird manure is considered the most concentrated in terms of plant nutrients, followed by goat, sheep and horse manure, then cow manure and lastly pig manure, which is the weakest in terms of the presence of useful elements and is also distinguished by the presence of an acidic reaction.
It is customary to apply manure annually in the fall to almost any type of plant. Such fertilizer should be stored in heaps, which are laid out with layers of peat or straw, and phosphorus fertilizers (phosphorite flour or superphosphate) are added.
Manure itself contains a large amount chemical elements, such as potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen, which are so necessary for the growth and flowering of garden flowers. After being applied to the ground, manure decomposes over several years, releasing carbon dioxide, which helps enrich the soil and improve its condition. It is best to use rotted manure, since when applied fresh, it can damage (burn) young plant roots.
When using slurry, it is worth remembering that such fertilizer contains only nitrogen and potassium, so when using it, superphosphate is added to the composition. This fertilizer is used as a liquid fertilizer and is diluted with water in a ratio of 1 part of the substance to 5 parts of water. If cow manure (mullein) is used for irrigation, it should be diluted 10 times. The prepared solution is left to ferment for several days, as a result of which nitrogen evaporates from it, so before use, ammonium sulfate can be added at the rate of 15 g per 10 liters of solution.
Bird droppings are considered a fast-acting fertilizer, the frequent use of which is undesirable, since nitrogen will begin to accumulate in large quantities in the soil. It is best to seal up the droppings in solid form for autumn digging. Most often, it is recommended to use chicken manure as an aqueous solution; for this, it is diluted half with water and infused for 4-6 days, after which it is diluted 10 times with clean water and watered garden flowers 1-2 times per season.

Compost

This is the best fertilizer for flowers, obtained from a variety of waste (herbal or kitchen), folded in a special way into piles called compost.

Compost heaps are placed in dry places and covered with earth, with the addition of a handful of ash and lime, and from time to time the compost is spilled with water. The fertilizer becomes ready for use after a year; it should be applied by mixing with the soil.
Peat, straw, manure, leaves, and weeds can be used as raw materials for homemade flower fertilizer. It is necessary to ensure that compost heaps Substances toxic to plants and contaminated plant residues were not exposed.

Green manures or green fertilizers

On nutrient-poor soils, special plants are sown, which, when they reach a certain size, are mowed and plowed into the ground.
Spring peas, lupine, broad beans, sunflower, phacelia or buckwheat are used as green manure. These are plants rich in nitrogen. When they fall into the soil, their remains decompose and enrich the soil. If you plant garden flowers on such land, they will receive most of the necessary nutrients.
In addition, lupins themselves can be used as flower crops.

River or lake silt (sapropel)

Sludge contains large quantities of phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium, that is, precisely those elements that are so necessary for the full development and lush flowering garden plants.
This fertilizer is found in large quantities at the bottom of reservoirs - in lakes, ponds and rivers. Crops growing on sandy soils respond well to such fertilizing.
Sludge is added at the rate of 7-10 kg per 1 sq. m. m.

Peat

Peat does not contain many nutrients, but at the same time it is excellent remedy to improve soil structure.
There are three main types of peat: high-moor (highly acidic), low-lying (high degree of decomposition) and transitional (medium acidity and low degree of decomposition). You can add peat at any time of the year, but be sure to add lime.
It is best to use peat when growing flower seedlings.

Sawdust and bark

Sawdust can greatly increase soil fertility and have a positive effect on the air and moisture permeability of the soil.
Sawdust and bark should be added in rotted form, mixed with fallen leaves, soil or plant debris. Superphosphate must be added to rotted sawdust, and nitrogen fertilizers must be added to the bark.

Organic fertilizers contain many nutrients such as calcium, potassium, phosphorus, and nitrogen. When organic matter decomposes, in addition to nutrients, carbon dioxide is released into the soil, which plants need for the process of photosynthesis. Organic fertilizers also improve the structure of the soil, help increase beneficial microorganisms and have a positive effect on the air and water nutrition of plants. Fertilizer manufacturers offer gardeners special ready-made mixtures, for example, a flower mixture that contains 7% nitrogen and potassium and 10% phosphorus.

Advice: ash, which contains large amounts of potassium and calcium, is considered an excellent fertilizer; this fertilizer is used on all types of soil in combination with manure, humus or peat.

Fertilizers for flowers are a necessary substance, as they have positive impact on their growth and development. Nitrogen accelerates the growth of leaves, roots and stems, phosphorus helps the plant to be strong and healthy, and potassium increases resistance to diseases. But you should not use more fertilizer than is required for one or another type of flower, as this can lead to the fact that the plants begin to actively grow green mass, and flowering will be weak or not occur at all.

From the Internet...FEEDING THE PLANTS

If in the spring the lilies crawl out of the ground by 10-15 cm, this means that the soil has warmed up enough and you can feed the plants. After all, they cannot absorb fertilizers from cold soil when its temperature is below six degrees.

Scheme of phlox clumps

The first dry fertilizing is carried out during the growth of the stems. For two or three bushes, take a bucket of compost or humus with the addition of two tablespoons of urea. Everything is thoroughly mixed and scattered around the bushes. If there is not enough moisture in the soil and there is no rain, make a liquid fertilizer: dilute 2 tbsp in 10 liters of water. spoons of urea. During budding: dilute 2 tbsp in 10 liters of water. spoons of nitrophoska or tbsp. a spoonful of "Agricola" or "Kemira" for flowering plants. The third feeding is carried out after flowering. For 10 liters of water take 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. Liquid fertilizing can be replaced with dry fertilizing. Again, add 2 tbsp to 1 bucket of compost or peat. spoons of fertilizer "Kemiry" (Autumn) or 2 tbsp. spoons of phosphorus-potassium mixture, stir thoroughly. A bucket of the mixture is enough to sprinkle under 3-4 bushes.

In the spring, after pruning, when the buds begin to swell, rotted manure (or bird droppings) and complex mineral fertilizer are added. In the initial stage of shoot growth, liquid feeding is given with an infusion of mullein, and during the budding period, with an infusion of bird droppings.

After the first flowering, but no later than the end of July, apply garden compost and complex mineral fertilizer. At the end of August - beginning of September (after the second flowering) dry fertilizing with ash is given. Mineral fertilizers include superphosphate (30-40g per sq.m.) and potassium salt (15-20g per sq.m.)

If complex fertilizers are added to the soil, then in the first year the lilies do not need to be fed. But since they grow in one place for 4 years, we feed the old plantings after watering or rain. The first type of feeding is a solution of calcium nitrate, repeat twice with an interval of 10 days. The second type of feeding is "Kemira", preferably a solution. You can start dissolving regular kemira a day before feeding. "Kemira Lux" dissolves well, but it is expensive. Also feed once every 10-14 days until mass flowering begins. Just before flowering begins, during budding, feed with potassium magnesia; it is believed that magnesium gives brightness to flowers. After flowering - superphosphate dissolved in hot water. Sprinkling superphosphate is useless; the lilies will not have time to absorb it until the end of the growing season. or some fertilizer with a lot of potassium and phosphorus. type "Kemira" (autumn).

Gladioli (recommendations by S. A Shishkina)
Corms. The first feeding after the second leaf grows is carried out with urea or ammonium nitrate 25-30g per sq.m. Then, in the phase of 3-4 leaves - 15-20g of urea and 20-25g of potassium sulfate. The third feeding during the peduncle emergence phase is 5-10g of urea, 40g of superphosphate, 30-35g of potassium sulfate per 1 sq.m. The last feeding is at the height of flowering or immediately after it: 40-45 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium sulfate. Kids. The first feeding during the development phase of the second leaf is potassium nitrate 30-40 g per 1 sq. m or 15-20 g of urea and 35-40 g of potassium sulfate. The next feedings are carried out every 10 days with the same composition. After the appearance of the fifth leaf, the dosage is as follows: 5-10g of urea, 40g of superphosphate, 20-25g of potassium sulfate. From the second half of August, the dosage changes again: 5 g of urea, 40-45 g of superphosphate, 20-25 g of potassium sulfate. 15-20 days before harvesting, the last fertilizing is carried out: 30-40 g of superphosphate.

Siberian irises

Early in the spring, introduce Kemira-universal for loosening. Do not overfeed - they do not winter well.

Clematis(recommendations by I. B. Lvova)

Feed 2-3 times per season. The first thing they do in the spring is to spill all the clematis with lime milk (about a 0.5 liter jar per 10 liters of water). To prepare lime milk, use slaked lime or dolomite. It is better to dilute with warm water (preferably warm) and pour it immediately. This is to ensure that there are no diseases. including the scourge of clematis - wilt.

After two weeks we feed them with nitrogen fertilizers. A handful of urea or ammonium nitrate in a bucket of water. If the bush is large - the whole bucket, if small - half. The same watering norms apply to lime milk.

In the budding phase - complete complex fertilizer. In autumn - potassium and phosphorus.

Lilac

Adding a large amount of nitrogen (overfeeding) has a bad effect on the wintering of plants and leads to poor, weak flowering. In the spring you need to add a little nitrogen, after flowering - phosphorus and potassium. responds well to the addition of ash (at any time) and dolomite flour(autumn).

Rhododendrons

In the spring, scatter 20-30 grams of this mixture over the snow: 40 grams of ammonium sulfate and 20 grams of potassium sulfate, 20 grams of superphosphate - mix. The first feeding is early in the spring. Next time - before flowering, then 2-3 weeks after flowering, but no later than mid-August. In spring - diluted mullein. In summer - mullein with the addition of potassium and phosphorus. In late autumn - phosphorus and potassium. Do not use urea! Do not pour potassium permanganate! Chlorine is not acceptable! The potassium-phosphorus buffer maintains acidity. For 10 liters of water, take 8 grams of potassium nitrate and 8 grams of potassium phosphate (8 grams = 1 level teaspoon). Watering - one bucket for two adult plants (5-6 years old) or for 3 young ones.

Acidifying nutrition: ammonium sulfate, superphosphate, magnesium sulfate, potassium sulfate, potassium nitrate.

Peonies

If the planting pit is filled correctly, clotting can be carried out starting from the third year. Immediately after the leaves begin to grow, spray the plant with a solution of 40-50 g of urea diluted in 10 liters of water. Don't regret a glass of beer this spring. Dilute it in a bucket of water and water the peony. He will thank you. Peonies are very demanding of organic fertilizers, so every spring add good humus, compost, and ready-made flower-soil mixtures under the bush at the rate of 1 bucket per bush (this is approximately a 10 cm layer of mulch). During 6th-tonization, they are fed with the following solution: two tablespoons of nitrophoska and one liter of mushy mullein are diluted in 10 liters of water (it can be replaced with 2 tablespoons of “Agricola for flowering plants”). The solution consumption is six to seven liters per bush. During the budding period, spraying with the growth regulator “Bud” (10 g per 10 liters of water) is also recommended. Sprinkle wood ash around the bush at the rate of 1-2 cups. After flowering - 20 g of potassium fertilizers and 15-20 g of phosphorus fertilizers per adult bush. This stimulates the development of renewal buds. Peony 1 is a glutton - it must be fed well. They even recommend watering with “blood water”

Tulips

If you planted it in well-prepared soil, then you don’t have to be overzealous with fertilizing. If you don’t eat, then we’ll definitely feed you! In spring, the soil must be loosened and full mineral fertilizer added at the rate of 30 - 40 g per 1 sq. m. m. The second similar feeding is carried out during the deployment of the third leaf. When buds appear, feed 20 g of superphosphate per square meter. m. When the plants fade, they are fed again (15 g of potassium sulfate per 1 sq. m). It is advisable to combine fertilizing with watering. Boron and zinc have a positive effect not only on the number of flowers, but also help to increase the percentage of large, full-weight bulbs suitable for forcing. It is recommended to use boron and zinc microfertilizers boric acid(10 mg per 100 ml) and zinc sulfate (30 mg per 100 ml), which are highly soluble in water and quickly penetrate plant tissue. The solution consumption rate is 0.5 l per 10 square meters. m. It is best to treat plants in the budding and flowering phase, since physiological and biological processes are activated during this period

Daffodils

If the soil is properly seasoned, you don’t have to feed it when planting in the first year. Daffodils are a crop primarily of nitrogen-potassium nutrition. The first time daffodils are fed is in the spring, upon seedlings. For example, nitroammophos is added - 30 g per square meter, but no more, since excess nitrogen causes the development of diseases and the growth of too tall, narrow, weak leaves. You can use Kemira complex fertilizer by dissolving a tablespoon of fertilizer in 10 liters of water. The second feeding of daffodils is carried out with nitrogen and potassium in the peduncle emergence phase - up to 50 g per square meter. m. The third - nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium during complete budding can again be fed with kemira
During flowering - double superphosphate (20 g) and potassium sulfate (30 g). Under no circumstances should you fertilize daffodils with fresh manure, because it attracts the most dangerous pest of this culture - the daffodil fly, or onion hoverfly. In mid-August they again give 50 g of nitrophoska. Daffodils receive this kind of nutrition every year; only in the year of digging is the last feeding excluded.

Hyacinth

The first fertilizing is carried out at the beginning of the growing season immediately after the sprouts appear. Per sq. m scatter a tablespoon of urea and nitrophoska. The second feeding is carried out after the appearance of buds. 1 teaspoon of urea, superphosphate, potassium sulfate and Agricola-7 are diluted per 10 liters of water. The third feeding is carried out after the end of flowering. 1 tablespoon of superphosphate, potassium sulfate or 2 tablespoons of nitrophoska fertilizer are diluted per 10 liters of water. Solution consumption - 5 liters per 1 sq. m.

Crocuses

They love soil rich in leaf humus. When the leaves reach maximum length, feed with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers (1:1) in a dose of no more than 40 g per square meter, and stop watering. This promotes better ripening of corms and flower formation during the summer dormancy period.

small-bulbous
snow fertilizing with urea (15 g per sq. m) and complete complex fertilizer during the growing season. You can sprinkle with ash, because... most small bulbous plants love neural soils

Bearded irises

If the irises have not been covered since the fall, then fertilize them with nitrogen and potassium (preferably granular) fertilizers in the snow. This feeding helps the start of active growth. In general, irises need at least three fertilizing with mineral fertilizers per season. The first fertilizing with a ratio of the main elements (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) of 3: 2: 2.5 is done at the beginning of the growing season. The second feeding two to three weeks after the start of the growing season, at the peak of the first growth wave (budding period), is applied with a ratio of the main elements (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) of 1:2:3. This allows you to increase the number and size of buds of future flowers. The third feeding three weeks after the end of flowering. At the end of flowering, irises enter a period of rest - growth processes slow down sharply. Three weeks after this, new roots begin to grow. At the beginning of this period, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied with a ratio of the main elements (phosphorus, potassium) of 2:3. This feeding is especially important, since it occurs during the period of growth of new parts of the rhizome, roots and the formation of flower buds. Fertilizers containing nitrogen should not be used during this period. Mineral fertilizers are applied at 15 g (1 tablespoon) per plant. The last fertilizing can be done by adding superphosphate (50-60 g per sq. m) and potassium salt (20-30 g per sq. m) to the moist soil, followed by light loosening. Excess nitrogen in the second half of summer causes fattening of plants and their death in winter. American experts recommend adding to fertilizers autumn feeding up to 5% powdered sulfur, which prevents the development of bacteriosis. The dose of one-time fertilizer application should be no more than 60-90 g per sq. m. For plants in their first year of life, only 40-60 g of fertilizer per 1 m2 are applied. It is important to remember that exceeding the dosage is dangerous for iris rhizomes

When applying and embedding fertilizers, you should remember the superficial, shallow location of the root system bearded irises. The central zone of the bush, free from roots, does not require fertilization. In the case of group (circular) planting of irises, fertilizers should also be applied along the periphery of the circle, since the roots of irises develop in the direction of rhizome growth.
It is known that organic fertilizers are dangerous for irises, as they contribute to the development of fungal and bacterial diseases.

Colchicum
Plant in humus-rich soil
does not require additional feeding. replant as needed - once every 3-6 years

Day-lily
1 feeding in the spring when the leaves grow, daylilies are fertilized with a complete complex mineral fertilizer. In dry form, the fertilizer is scattered between the bushes, as if “salting” the soil with it, followed by incorporation.
the second feeding immediately before flowering is also complete mineral fertilizer - such as Kemira.
The third feeding is carried out a month after the peak of flowering, when the daylily has a short period of rest before the start of new growth and the laying of next year's buds. Feeding at this time has a beneficial effect on flowering next year. The amount of fertilizer applied depends on the age of the plants and the nature of the soil. During this period, it is better to feed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
You can also feed herb infusion in mid-summer.

Delphinium
1 fertilizing with liquid organic fertilizers (mullein solution in a ratio of 1:10 by volume) or mineral fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogen
2 fertilizing before flowering - complete complex ineral fertilizer
3 fertilizing is carried out at the end of flowering, applying only potassium and phosphorus fertilizers (50 g/sq.m.), which will ensure good seed ripening and the formation of renewal buds.

Heuchera
like many garden plants, heucheras need fertilizing, but in much more moderate doses.
If the planting holes are filled correctly and with long-lasting fertilizers, then the heucheras do not need to be fed for a year or two.
1 fertilizing in the spring during the period of active growth is complex.
2 fertilizing at the end of summer or autumn before wintering, as always we apply potassium and phosphorus fertilizers,
in the summer, oddly enough, the growth and development of heuchera stops and feeding during this period is even harmful.

Khosta

because We plant hosta for a long time. then we fill the planting hole according to all the rules - with humus, etc. and you don’t have to bother watering with fertilizing and that’s it
But in spring and autumn we add humus under the bushes. Well, you can water it with complex fertilizer in the summer. You can fertilize until mid-July, otherwise the hosta will produce more and more leaves and will not have time to prepare for winter.

Astilbe
The main thing is to plant it in a properly filled hole and you can practically not fertilize it. because We divide once every 3-5 years. Astilbes are unpretentious.
However, in principle, astilbes can grow in one place for a long time, up to 15-20 years. To maintain the decorative appearance of old plants, you should take care of fertilizer annually.
1 feeding - in the spring after regrowth (nitrogen fertilizers predominate)
2 feeding immediately after flowering or in the fall (potassium and phosphorus - 20-25 g per plant).

Dahliafrom EDSR
Fertilizing is carried out after the plants take root after planting (not earlier than 5-7 days), with an interval of 10 days, after watering the plants properly. Make a hole 10-12 cm deep around the “bush,” feed it, and then immediately level the hole.
1 type of fertilizing (3-4 times) use mullein infusion (1:10), adding superphosphate and nitrogen fertilizers (20 g per 10 liters of water).
2nd type of fertilizing 3-4 fertilizing with superphosphate (50 g per 10 liters of water) with the addition of 3-4 handfuls of wood ash. With this care it is achieved abundant flowering and the size of the inflorescences is much larger.
Feeding is carried out in June and the first half of July,
3 types of fertilizing in August provide only one fertilizing with potassium sulfate for better ripening of tubers (30 g per “bush”).
You should not get too carried away with nitrogenous fertilizers, since this reduces the intensity of flowering, the “bush” only gains a large vegetative mass, blooms weakly and forms tubers that are poorly stored. From September, watering and fertilizing are stopped.