Proper care of chrysanthemums in a pot at home. Indoor chrysanthemum

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Many flower growers are very fond of such a flower as chrysanthemum. It is popular and can grow both in open ground and at home. In the latter case, a pot is used to grow the flower. Caring for it both indoors and outdoors will be exactly the same, only unlike garden chrysanthemums, indoor chrysanthemums are small in size. So how to care for a chrysanthemum in a pot? Let's try to figure this out.

Features of indoor chrysanthemums

This flower can be either annual or perennial. It has a branched root system, the development of which occurs parallel to the surface. The leaves of the plant are light green and are dissected, serrated or notched. A dense inflorescence is formed by small flowers collected in a basket.

Indoor chrysanthemum It has a large number of varieties that grow wonderfully at home. These types differ from garden ones in their miniature size. This is explained by the fact that for growing indoors they use drugs that stop their growth for decorative purposes. When purchasing a chrysanthemum for growing in pots, you should choose a strong and healthy specimen with a well-formed stem and dense foliage. After purchase, the flower adapts to new conditions for some time. To prevent the plant from becoming infected with diseases from other indoor flowers, it is quarantined for several days.

Chrysanthemum in a pot: proper care

Watering

Chrysanthemum is very moisture-loving, but you can’t overdo it. The soil in the pot should always be moist, but not soggy. The ideal watering regime is twice a day in such an amount that the leaves of the flower are dry by the next morning. In other periods, you can use a spray bottle, regularly spraying the leaves of the flower. Chrysanthemums love this type of care.

Temperature

Chrysanthemum prefers cool temperatures and short sunny days. The ideal temperature for better preservation of the inflorescence is 15 degrees. Acceptable, but the maximum is 18 degrees. If the temperature is higher, the leaves will often turn yellow, the buds will dry out, and the flowering period will quickly end. More susceptible to such negative consequences rising temperatures recently purchased and not yet established plants.

Despite the fact that chrysanthemum needs a short daylight hours, about 8 hours, it is a light-loving plant. Therefore, you should not hide it in the shadows. But also protect it from direct sunlight.

Lighting

Ideally, domestic chrysanthemums should be kept on windows facing west or east. South windows are too hot for them, straight Sun rays provoke rapid flowering. On northern windows, the buds may not open at all. Alternatively, chrysanthemums at home can be placed on a ventilated, cool balcony with good lighting.

Chrysanthemum is a plant of short daylight hours. Flowering begins when daylight hours are reduced to 8-10 hours. And this happens in the fall. Then the coolness necessary for the opening of chrysanthemum flowers appears. Similar conditions may arise in early spring, in March-April. If at this time you place your home chrysanthemum on a cool balcony, then spring flowering is possible. Some amateur flower growers provoke the flowering of their chrysanthemums by artificially reducing daylight hours. To do this, after the required 8-10 hours, the plant is covered with an impenetrable cap, for example, made of cardboard.

Air humidity

Chrysanthemum loves moisture, so do not allow the soil, and therefore the root system, to dry out. Support constant moisture. Spray it from above occasionally. During flowering, it should be fertilized with special food for flowering plants.

Propagation of indoor chrysanthemum

This flower is propagated by cuttings or by dividing an already mature bush, and it can also be grown from seeds. To get cuttings, choose the plants you like, and after the chrysanthemum has faded, cut off all the shoots that are on top of the ground. Then the pot with the root remaining in the ground is placed in a cool place for the entire winter period, not forgetting to water the plant. In March, the expected cuttings will begin to appear from the ground, which need to be cut and, for better rooting, immediately planted in a box with prepared soil from a mixture of humus and peat, and this mixture should be covered with sand on top, into which chrysanthemum cuttings are planted shallowly. Then they need to be sprayed with water, covered with glass or film and the box placed in a cool room with a temperature of 13-15 °C for 3 weeks. After rooting, young plants are transplanted into small pots, and as they grow, the chrysanthemum is replaced with a larger pot.

Transfer

The frequency of transplants for chrysanthemums is the same as for most indoor plants– young annually, adults every other year. She is basically indifferent to the composition of the earth. The only condition is that the soil should not be acidic. Therefore, for transfers potted chrysanthemums You can safely use ordinary garden soil. But if you add humus, peat and leaf soil in equal proportions, the mixture will be more loose and nutritious.

Diseases and pests of chrysanthemum

1. Spider mite. If cobwebs are detected on the leaves, the entire surface of the plant is treated soap solution, after which it is washed under warm water in the shower.
2. Powdery mildew. A fungus in the form of a gray coating on the leaves of a plant. It is eradicated using a fungicide and quarantining the plant in a dry room.
3. Gray rot. It appears as a fluffy layer of gray color on the sheets. You can remove it by spraying the leaves with foundationazole.
4. Septoria. It looks like a brown spot on a plant leaf. The plant needs to be watered less and treated with foundationazole.

Possible problems:

• Chrysanthemums in a pot have wilted

Like other plants, chrysanthemums wither from improper care or illnesses. Perhaps it was not moistened enough, or, on the contrary, it became damp and began to rot. It is necessary to change the conditions of keeping the chrysanthemum.

• Why doesn't a chrysanthemum bloom in a pot?

Chrysanthemums bloom only in autumn time. Problems with flowering can occur for the same reasons as wilting. It is necessary to reconsider flower care based on basic recommendations.

• Dried chrysanthemum in a pot

If you do not remove drying leaves and flowers from a chrysanthemum during the flowering period, the entire plant may dry out.

Why doesn't chrysanthemum bloom?

Any chrysanthemum should bloom in the fall. This law can only be violated if there are errors in caring for the plant. The most common of them are:

• Poor illumination (low intensity of light rays, too long (more than 10 hours) or, conversely, short (less than 7 hours) daylight hours).
• Late pruning (pinching).
• Poor soil and lack of fertilizing (containing phosphorus and potassium).

Eliminate the errors found and your potted chrysanthemum will definitely thank you with lush and long flowering.

How to care for a chrysanthemum so that it is lush? To do this, it is cut and pinched. This procedure is carried out throughout the entire growth period. If this is not done, the plant will have a long, unsightly looking stem. To extend the flowering period, it is necessary to remove dried leaves and flower buds from time to time. On hot days, the flower is placed in a cool place. Many gardeners prefer to plant chrysanthemums in open ground before the onset of autumn. For the winter it is planted again in a pot.

Thus, caring for indoor chrysanthemums at home is not so difficult. When growing it in a pot, you should adhere to certain rules and promptly get rid of pests and diseases. Only in this case will the flower grow healthy and strong, delighting its owner with abundant flowering.

How to preserve chrysanthemums in winter?

In winter, the chrysanthemum should rest and gain strength before the new growing season. You can overwinter the plant:

1. In a bright, cool room (on the veranda, insulated balcony, in the entrance). After flowering, the potted chrysanthemum is cut to 10-15 cm and placed in a cool, bright room for the winter. Optimal temperature 3-8°C. Water the plant rarely, only after the clod of earth has dried out on 2 phalanges of the finger. Typically, watering is required once a month.
2. At home. If there is no cool room, the chrysanthemum can remain on the windowsill in the house in winter. In this case, the plant is pruned minimally, with the obligatory removal of faded buds, dry branches and leaves. Watering is carried out in the same way as during the growing season.
3. In the basement. Chrysanthemums can be placed in the basement for the winter. This method is very popular among owners of garden heat-loving chrysanthemums, and therefore is quite suitable for their potted counterparts. To prepare the plant for wintering, all dried branches, flowers, and rotten parts are cut off. The bush is trimmed to a height of 10-15 cm. A couple of days before the start of wintering, the soil in the pot should be watered. By the time the chrysanthemum is placed in the basement, the soil should be slightly damp, but not damp.
4. In open ground. Some varieties of potted chrysanthemums are able to overwinter in the ground with shelter. Another thing is that it is very difficult to guess whether a particular specimen will overwinter. If you decide to take the risk, with the onset of the first frost, cut the chrysanthemum stems to a height of 10 cm and cover them with dry soil, peat or dry leaves. On top - cover with film or other covering material.

Homemade chrysanthemums: care in spring and summer

Already in March, home chrysanthemums should begin their growing season. Therefore do the following:

1. Transplant the chrysanthemum into new soil. The soil for chrysanthemums must be neutral, water- and moisture-permeable, and nutritious. Very good results are obtained by planting chrysanthemums in a substrate composed according to the following scheme: turf soil + garden soil + sand + humus (rotted manure, chicken droppings) in a ratio of 4: 4: 1: 1. Young chrysanthemums will require transplanting into a new, larger pot every year. Adult plants need to increase their “living space” every 2 years.
2. Place the pot with the plant on a sunny windowsill, balcony, or in the garden (at stable above-zero temperatures). In spring, homemade chrysanthemum can be planted in open ground. It will grow over the summer and bloom profusely in the fall. In winter, it will have to be dug up, placed again in a pot and sent to winter in a frost-free room.
3. Begin regular watering and fertilizing. After transplantation, the first application of fertilizer will be needed no earlier than 2 weeks later. If humus has been added to the substrate, you don’t have to think about fertilizing for a month. In spring and summer, the chrysanthemum will form a bush, so for fertilizing you should select fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogen (N). Only in the middle of summer, for the formation of buds, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers will be required (suitable mineral fertilizers"for those who bloom")
4. Forming begins. When purchased, a homemade chrysanthemum usually looks like a spherical blooming cloud. In order for it to be just as decorative in the future, it will have to be shaped. New growing shoots are pinched several times. In most cases, 2-3 pinchings are sufficient during the spring-summer period. Pinching, firstly, prevents the branches from growing beyond the boundaries of the formed “ball”, and, secondly, it stimulates the growth of new shoots on which flower buds will form.

Surely you know how chrysanthemums bloom. These incredibly beautiful, delicate and colorful flowers delight the eyes of gardeners and summer residents. Chrysanthemums can be red, purple, yellow, pink, white. But what if you don’t have a plot of land where you can grow this miracle? There is no need to despair, chrysanthemum can be grown in a pot, right on your windowsill.

Garden chrysanthemum in a pot

Many novice gardeners are surprised whether it is possible to grow garden chrysanthemum in a pot? After all, a real chrysanthemum is quite large in size, its stem reaches more than a meter in length. The fact is that chrysanthemums are grown only dwarf varieties, which do not grow, but are formed by shrubs. Along with this, such chrysanthemums are treated with retardants. These are means that retard the growth of a plant in length. Thanks to this treatment, the chrysanthemum grows in width, that is, it forms a lush, luxurious bush. In addition, do not be afraid to trim the chrysanthemum stem before the buds appear. This is done in order to suppress the growth of a tall stem and form a bush from the plant. But before that, you need to understand in detail how to grow a chrysanthemum from scratch in a pot.

Planting chrysanthemums

1. Chrysanthemums are planted and replanted in early spring, when the plant is still dormant. To plant a chrysanthemum, you can take a sprout from the garden, that is, plant a very ordinary chrysanthemum in a pot. You can replant the plant that you removed for wintering into a new pot. If you want to grow chrysanthemum from seeds, you will need to first grow the seedlings in greenhouse conditions.
2. Chrysanthemum reproduces well by cuttings and dividing the bush. The last method is the most acceptable, since if you have your own roots, the chrysanthemum almost always takes root.
3. To grow chrysanthemums, you need to take nutritious soil with sufficient breathability. You need to put drainage at the bottom of the pot - expanded clay pebbles or brick shards. Four parts garden soil should be mixed with one part chicken or cow manure, one part sand and four parts turf land. This substrate is placed in a pot and the chrysanthemum is planted so that its roots are completely in the soil.
4. If you are replanting an adult chrysanthemum, please note that the new pot should be large in size. In the first 3-4 years, the chrysanthemum should be replanted every year, after which replanting may be less frequent.
5. As soon as you have “settled” the plant in a new place, it should be placed on open air– balcony, loggia, window sill with outside window. But only if the temperature outside has already stabilized above zero.

Despite the fact that a chrysanthemum in a pot is still the same garden flower, caring for it is a little different from the classic one.

1. Watering. Chrysanthemum loves water and the plant needs to be watered 2-3 times a week, depending on the amount and intensity of sunlight. Chrysanthemum does not tolerate drying out and immediately dies from it. It is best to water the flower when the top of the soil dries out. In winter, the intensity of watering is significantly reduced. If you store chrysanthemum at low temperatures, watering the plant once a month is enough. Excessive watering of chrysanthemums at any time of the year can lead to rotting of the roots. In the summer, you can spray the flower a couple of times a week - this will make it grow better.
2. Temperature. Chrysanthemum is a fairly non-capricious plant; it calmly survives temperature changes. However, it blooms and develops best in summer at a temperature of 22-24 degrees. Optimal winter temperature 6-8 degrees. The plant can survive minor frosts down to -3 degrees.
3. Illumination. When choosing a place for your flower, it is very important to find a natural balance. If you place the chrysanthemum in direct sunlight, the plant will dry out and the flowers will fade too quickly. If you place the plant on the north side, the buds may simply not open. Optimal choice- these are eastern and western windows, that is, places where the sun's rays hit the flower in the morning or evening. Chrysanthemum blooms in autumn, when daylight hours become short, 8-10 hours. Some experienced flower growers create an artificial environment, forcing the chrysanthemum to bloom. That is, every day they cover the plant with a dark cap, simulating night. This way you can achieve repeated flowering of chrysanthemums within a year.
4. Feeding. Chrysanthemums should be fertilized no earlier than two weeks after transplantation. If you added droppings to the substrate, it means that the chrysanthemum does not need feeding for about two more months. In general, the flower needs to be fertilized only in spring, summer and autumn, when the chrysanthemum is actively growing and blooming. In winter, feeding is stopped. Plants need to be fertilized with compounds containing nitrogen and phosphorus.
5. Flower molding. Flower shops often sell incredibly beautiful chrysanthemums in the form of a blooming ball. To achieve such a figure, the chrysanthemum needs to be formed in time. To do this, you need to pinch the plant in those places where it goes beyond the frame of the figure. This not only shapes the appearance of the future flower, but also increases the number of young shoots on the plucked branch. Usually in the spring-summer period two or three moldings are enough.
6. Wintering. When the chrysanthemum has faded, it must be properly sent for wintering so that next spring it will delight you with young green shoots. To do this, all faded buds, dry leaves and stems must be cut off. The plant should have cuttings no more than 10-15 cm in height. After this, the flower along with the pot should be placed in a cool room - entrance, basement, garage. Chrysanthemums can also be transplanted into open ground for the winter. To do this, the plant is dug up along with the root system, planted in the soil, sprinkled with dry soil and leaves. However, this does not guarantee that the flower will survive. In the spring, when the first young leaves appear, the flower can be planted back into the pot.

Chrysanthemum blooms almost always. But if in the fall, with the decrease in daylight hours, the plant still does not please you with flowering, it means that the care was incorrect. Pay attention to the lighting. Chrysanthemum will not bloom if it does not have enough sun. Also, the plant will not please you with flowering if you have not fed it - the plant does not bloom in poor soil with a lack of phosphorus and potassium.

It is important to note that the last pinching should be in the summer. If you pinch your chrysanthemum too late, there is a chance that you are cutting off branches that were intended to produce buds. Don’t delay with molding, and if you didn’t have time to do it in the summer, don’t touch the chrysanthemum so as not to lose its flowering completely.

What does chrysanthemum suffer from?

Like other house flowers, chrysanthemum can be susceptible to diseases and pests. Most often you can find spider mites on chrysanthemum bushes. You can easily recognize its presence by its thin and sticky web. In this case, immediate treatment is required. The easiest way is to wipe with soap. Dilute in warm water soap solution and gently wipe all the leaves and stems of the plant with it. After this, rinse indoor flower under the shower, choosing light streams so that the water does not damage the bush.

If you notice a gray coating on your chrysanthemums, it means that the plant is sick with powdery mildew. This is one of the most common ailments. In this case, a fungicide, which is sold in flower shops, will help. Chemical composition diluted in water according to the instructions, and then sprayed on the plant. Usually one treatment is enough. Powdery mildew affects the flower when high humidity. After processing, you should move the pot to a drier room.

If the edges of the chrysanthemum leaves turn brown and the stems have an ashy coating, it means that the plant has become sick with gray rot. Here you will need treatment with foundationazole. But if the air in the room is too dry, the plant can be affected spider mite. It is exterminated with alcohol tincture of garlic.

Chrysanthemum is an amazing autumn flower. He plays with colors, delighting his owners with various shades. Proper and competent care will allow you to grow this riot of colors at home yourself.

Video: growing chrysanthemums at home

We grew our chrysanthemums from a bouquet. These flowers were given to my wife at work several years ago. They stood in a vase until the roots sprouted. Then they grew on the windowsill. But they didn’t bloom on the window. Our side is north, and the plants were elongated, more like vines. This year I planted them at the dacha. Now the stems are as thick as a finger, the bushes are more than a meter high. It is now October, they are not dying off yet, they are alive, but without flowers. They have never bloomed like this in all of history. Why?

Nikolay Krylov, St. Petersburg.

Many gardeners ask a similar question. We bought a bush in the spring or last fall, but it never bloomed. The same problem occurs with plants grown from cuttings, as they say, “from a bouquet.”

As a rule, these are chrysanthemums either southern (Indian varieties), or simply very late dates flowering. Our short summer is not suitable for them; they do not have time to bloom.

The fact is that ALL chrysanthemums are plants short day. That is, they begin to lay buds when the day begins to shorten. But some varieties do this quickly, while others very gradually. Late varieties, even if they lay buds, they will not be able to open them - there is not enough heat.

In Japan, China and here in Crimea (Nikitsky Botanical Garden) chrysanthemum festivals are held. Starts in October. This year it's October 24th. And at this time it’s already cold here.

Late chrysanthemums are grown only in greenhouses. These include all cut varieties that are sold in bouquet stores. Plant your chrysanthemum in a greenhouse along with tomatoes or cucumbers (just so that the vegetables do not shade them) and you will see flowering in October-November.

Also for late chrysanthemums, container growing methods are used. The root is planted in a large pot. In the summer, they dig the pot into the ground so that the roots do not bask in the sun, and after harvesting, they place the pot there in the greenhouse. In the greenhouse, chrysanthemum blooms in late October - November. After this, it is dug into the ground again so that in winter the plant is covered with snow. This is how late varieties bloom.

People often try to take the chrysanthemum home instead of putting it in the greenhouse. They think that there is no difference - let it bloom at home. But there is a difference, and a significant one - light!

There is not enough light from the window. The buds will not bloom, and if flowers do appear, they will be frail and will not bring joy. An alternative could be a bright, cool loggia. There chrysanthemums can bloom throughout November. But then you will have to take them to the garden - to winter under the snow.

South Indian varieties (the largest flowers are up to 15 cm in diameter) do not overwinter either in the ground or in a greenhouse; they are lowered into the cellar.

As for home maintenance, only special types of chrysanthemum can grow on the window; they are called “indoor” chrysanthemums. They are not very tall. They bloom white or yellow flowers with a diameter of up to 8 cm. But they also require a light window sill. The northern location is excluded.

For flowering in the garden, look for early varieties that manage to bloom. These are mainly small, so-called Korean chrysanthemums.

CHRYSANTHEMUM VARIETIES FOR THE MIDDLE BAND

Talisman, Copper Thunder, Lucy, Youth, Malchish-Kibalchish, Evening Lights, Gypsy, Korean, Radiant, Svemba Kare, Radiant, Alexandrite, Flamingo, Swan Song, First Snow, Petrukha, Pearl, Helen, Orange Sunset, Isabel, The Cherry Orchard, Evgenia Grande, Evelyn Bush, Syaivo, Golden Autumn.

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Why sometimes does chrysanthemum not bloom at home?

Beginning gardeners often wonder why chrysanthemums do not bloom at home. As a rule, a healthy plant should bloom every fall, even in an apartment or house. But many factors can lead to the absence of buds on a plant.

You can achieve flowering of chrysanthemums at home thanks to proper care.

Many people love indoor chrysanthemums for their beauty and relative unpretentiousness compared to other flowers. But every loving owner of a plant wants to see bright flowers on it that will create an atmosphere of joy and positivity in the room.

Errors in care

Usually chrysanthemums begin to bloom in the second year of life. Sometimes the plant produces buds in the first year, but in this case it is advisable to cut them off so that in the future the chrysanthemum blooms as abundantly as possible.

The main reasons for the absence of buds in a healthy chrysanthemum are proper care.

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Poor lighting and insufficient feeding

Chrysanthemum needs to be provided with good lighting.

One of the most common reasons for the lack of buds is improper lighting. Moreover, this can be either an excess or a lack of light. As a rule, then the absence of buds on a chrysanthemum is accompanied by the pallor of the leaves and their relatively small size.

Chrysanthemum loves the place where it is located to be illuminated with normal light for about 8 hours a day. Any sharp decrease or increase in daylight hours will force the plant to take its time to flower. Wherein indoor varieties Chrysanthemums love bright sun rays.

Some of them even prefer to be in direct sun if possible. Such chrysanthemums should be placed on southern windows in the summer so that they bloom well by autumn. But still, most varieties prefer bright, but diffused light. Therefore, in order for the chrysanthemum to begin producing buds in the fall, you should keep it close to a tulle-curtained window all summer.

Chrysanthemums need to be fed from time to time.

Improper feeding is also often the reason for the lack of flowers in adult chrysanthemums. So, if fertilizers are never used in the entire life cycle were not introduced into the soil, then one should not be surprised that the chrysanthemum does not produce buds. For flowering, you should try, starting in spring, to add special fertilizers to the soil for flowering indoor plants.

If feeding is regular but incorrect, the chrysanthemum may also react to it accordingly. For the curvy flowering bush Feeding should be done every two weeks with preparations that contain large amounts of potassium and phosphorus. But fertilizing needs to be done in doses to prevent excess nutrients in the soil.

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Lack of pruning and violation of temperature conditions

Chrysanthemums, like most bush potted crops, need periodic pruning and pinching. You should start pinching chrysanthemums from the first year of life. This will contribute not only to the development of a lush, rounded bush, but also to the active budding of the plant. Pruning should only be carried out on sufficiently mature plants whose shoots are actively growing upwards, without allowing sufficient quantity side branches.

Chrysanthemums need pruning after flowering.

Of great importance for the annual flowering of chrysanthemums at home is the pruning of peduncles on which the flowers have already faded. This must be done regularly every fall. After all, during flowering the plant spends great amount nutrients for the formation of buds. And it is important, after flowering, to protect the chrysanthemum from wasting nutrients.

Also, the absence of flowers on a chrysanthemum may be a consequence of improper temperature regime. It is very important that until the end of budding the chrysanthemum is kept in a room with a temperature of about 20-22°C. But as soon as the plant fades, you need to place the pot with the chrysanthemum in a cold place where the thermometer fluctuates from 1°C to 5°C.

Such a sharp change in temperature will allow the chrysanthemum to properly recover after a period of active growth and flowering. Then on next year Even more beautiful and large buds will definitely appear on your favorite plant.

Indoor chrysanthemums are considered plants that are very resistant to various pests and bacteria. But still, if not properly cared for, the immunity of plants may decrease somewhat, while diseases and pests will easily attack them.

Very often, if watering is improper, root rot bacteria can develop in the soil. In this case, two scenarios can occur. This is either a complete lack of flowering or deformed flowers. But at the same time, if affected by root rot, the chrysanthemum will look lethargic and the leaves will begin to turn yellow.

Be sure to remove the plant from the substrate and inspect the roots. If there are rotten ones, cut them off and process the rest. charcoal. The plant needs to be transplanted into a pot with new soil and watered with fertilizer high in potassium and phosphorus.

If the flowers are deformed, which is often expressed in baldness of the buds, then all these flower stalks need to be cut off. This is the only way to save the plant and make it produce new, healthy buds. Otherwise, the chrysanthemum will either completely wither or continue to bloom with abnormal flowers that do not have any decorative value.

Very often, the absence of buds on an indoor chrysanthemum is accompanied by a disease such as septoria. The disease is caused by a fungus that initially attacks the leaves and stems of the plant. In this case, you can notice brown spots on the leaf blades, the number of which is increasing all the time.

In order to defeat such a disease and make the chrysanthemum bloom again, you should tear off the leaves affected by the fungus and burn them. And treat the above-ground part of the plant with Fundazol. In this case, it is necessary to eliminate spraying, reduce watering and extend the daylight hours of the chrysanthemum using fluorescent lamps.

Treatment usually lasts 10-14 days. During this time, it is recommended to keep the chrysanthemum pot away from other flowers so that they do not become infected. After this time, wash the plant under a warm shower and provide normal living conditions. The chrysanthemum will definitely bloom next autumn.

If white or black larvae or cobwebs are visible on the leaves of a chrysanthemum with the naked eye, this indicates that the chrysanthemum has been infected by aphids, scale insects or spider mites. These pests also prevent the plant from blooming. The methods of struggle here are exactly the same, only in most cases you can limit yourself to simply washing with laundry soap without using fungicides.

So, now it has become clear why chrysanthemums do not bloom in room conditions. Whatever the reasons (chrysanthemum diseases or errors in care), ensuring optimal conditions and microclimate will contribute to the proper development of healthy and flowering plants.

Chrysanthemum is an amazingly beautiful flower that can decorate both your home and garden. Many gardeners prefer winter time grow chrysanthemums in pots on windowsills. The popularity of the flower is explained by appearance, and unpretentiousness in breeding.

Homemade chrysanthemum is no different large sizes. Compactness is achieved artificially, using special preparations that inhibit plant growth. This breeding method allows you to achieve diversity in the varieties of indoor chrysanthemums.

However, when purchasing a chrysanthemum for a pot in a store inattentively, the buyer risks buying either an incorrectly bred plant variety or common plant, which will then grow to gigantic proportions. When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the following important characteristics plants:

• Leaves and stems should be well developed and proportionate;
• There should be no insects on the chrysanthemum;
• The entire plant should be dense and strong.

After purchasing it at home, it is best to quarantine the plant for two days, which will protect the existing plants and allow the chrysanthemum to get used to the new conditions.

The ideal conditions for keeping home chrysanthemums are as follows:

• The pot should be on the windowsill, on the east or west side. On the southern side, the chrysanthemum will be too hot; on the northern side, flowering is unlikely. In the warm season, conditions on a ventilated balcony will be good for chrysanthemums.
• Chrysanthemums feel best in autumn weather, when daylight lasts only 8 hours. Knowing this feature of the plant, you can provoke flowering artificially. Reducing the daylight hours for a chrysanthemum can be achieved by covering it for the rest of the time with a plastic or cardboard cap that does not allow light to pass through.
• After the end of the flowering period, the chrysanthemum must be pruned and kept in a cool place where the temperature is 3-5 degrees.

Planting chrysanthemums in a pot

Planting chrysanthemums is traditional, as for other indoor flowers. The flower is unpretentious, so ordinary soil from the garden, softened by adding peat and humus, is suitable. The only one important point When planting a plant, the soil should not be acidic.

Chrysanthemums also need to be replanted according to the standard scheme: annually for young plant and once every 2 years for an adult.

How to water a chrysanthemum in a pot

Chrysanthemum is very moisture-loving, but you can’t overdo it. The soil in the pot should always be moist, but not soggy. The ideal watering regime is twice a day in such an amount that the leaves of the flower are dry by the next morning. In other periods, you can use a spray bottle, regularly spraying the leaves of the flower. Chrysanthemums love this type of care.

Chrysanthemums need to be trimmed after flowering. During this period, it is necessary to remove all regrown stems without affecting the young shoots. In spring, pruning is also recommended before replanting. The rest of the time, to extend the flowering period, you just need to remove the yellowed leaves of the plant.

Propagating chrysanthemums in a pot

Chrysanthemums can be propagated in several ways, but the most effective is when the plant actively grows shoots. During such periods, 1 chrysanthemum bush can produce up to 6 shoots suitable for replanting and creating new flowers. The shoots are planted in separate pots and watered diligently - with proper care, such a plant will bloom in its first year of life.

A slightly longer way is to take chrysanthemum cuttings. Several cuttings, 10 cm long, are separated from the plant and treated with a root solution or similar means. The cuttings are inserted into the soil to a depth of 2 cm and create a kind of greenhouse using film. After seedlings, regular ventilation will be necessary.

1. Spider mite. If cobwebs are detected on the leaves, the entire surface of the plant is treated with a soap solution, and then washed under warm water in the shower.
2. Powdery mildew. A fungus in the form of a gray coating on the leaves of a plant. It is eradicated using a fungicide and quarantining the plant in a dry room.
3. Gray rot. It appears as a fluffy layer of gray color on the sheets. You can remove it by spraying the leaves with foundationazole.
4. Septoria. It looks like a brown spot on a plant leaf. The plant needs to be watered less and treated with foundationazole.

Possible problems:

Chrysanthemums in a pot have wilted

Like other plants, chrysanthemums wither due to improper care or disease. Perhaps it was not moistened enough, or, on the contrary, it became damp and began to rot. It is necessary to change the conditions of keeping the chrysanthemum.

Why doesn't a chrysanthemum bloom in a pot?

Chrysanthemums bloom only in autumn. Problems with flowering can occur for the same reasons as wilting. It is necessary to reconsider flower care based on basic recommendations.

Dried chrysanthemum in a pot

If you do not remove drying leaves and flowers from a chrysanthemum during the flowering period, the entire plant may dry out.

Video on caring for chrysanthemums in a pot at home

In addition to our article, look this video instructions that clearly show how to care for a chrysanthemum in a pot at home.