Grafting cultivated roses onto rose hips in the spring: competently and effectively. How to graft a rose onto a rosehip? Grafting a rose onto a rosehip trunk: tips and recommendations When to graft roses in the spring

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Growing roses on personal plot, sooner or later you will have to deal with the technology of grafting it onto rose hips. Even a beginner can master this simple procedure.. And this one step-by-step instruction will help to graft a rose.

Rose is considered pretty capricious plant. Requires careful care, mineral-rich soil and a warm climate. You can create a wonderful rose garden by grafting a rose onto a rose hip.. There's nothing complicated about it.


In bad climatic conditions, roses slow down their growth, the bushes freeze, the buds do not bloom, and the stems themselves become sick. To avoid this, they carry out such agrotechnical technique like budding on rose hips.

Picky and unique varieties flowers are grafted onto less demanding relatives. At optimal selection types of roses, you can provide them lush flowering in conditions unusual for them. Or you can go another way. Use wild rose hips, which are a distant relative of the queen of flowers, as a rootstock. It feels great in harsh climates and does not require special care. A healthy bush with a well-developed root system is ideal for grafting.

Vaccination dates

As for the timing of vaccinations, then best period considered spring. Leaves and young shoots appear on the bushes. It is important that new stems do not have time to start growing. The plant should not be disturbed during the period of bud dormancy.

Vaccination is also carried out in the summer. There is an active movement of juice in the stems, which contributes to the rapid engraftment of rose cuttings. The new shoots have already flowered and can be used as a scion. The work begins in July or August.

Rose grafting is also used in winter - in February. This method is more labor-intensive and not so popular. The cuttings take root poorly, and the work is quite difficult.

How to properly graft a rose, step-by-step instructions

There are several ways to instill this beautiful plant. The first one is quite labor-intensive and time-consuming. First, rosehip seeds are sown and thin, strong rootstocks are grown. When they get stronger and reach 1 cm in diameter, select a scion with the right variety flowers and start working.

A T-shaped cut is made on the trunk. They insert a bud with a stump there. Wrap it with tape to engraft it. All parts of the rosehip located above the engrafted bud are cut off.


Most gardeners use another method - quick grafting. Choose a good scion with two dormant buds. This rule is mandatory. The thickness of the shoot should be more than 6–7 mm. Cut cuttings are stored in pieces of damp cloth.

Rosehip selection and preparatory work

How the rootstock is used root shoots rose hips, aged from three years. Choose a bush with a well-developed root collar, the thickness of which is 10 mm. Upper layer(bark) must be mature and peel away from the wood. They dig up the rosehip, carefully remove the soil from the root part and wipe it. The bark should have a light appearance. Two oblique cuts with a tongue are made on the neck of the bush.

Having put aside the rose hips, they prepare the rose for grafting. Select the desired area on the flower stem and cut off the stalk with dormant buds. Length of the cut part – 5 cm. The movement of the knife should be sharp and towards you. Cuttings are taken slightly thinner than prepared rosehip shoots.

Grafting process

Work begins in mid-March. This is the optimal and generally accepted vaccination period (although there are both summer and winter vaccinations).

The prepared cutting is tightly inserted into the cut in the root part of the rosehip. This is done as follows: below the bud of the cutting, do 2 cm oblique incision. They do it from above cross section with a recess of 1–2 mm in the form of a protrusion. Then the splice site on the rosehip is prepared. A longitudinal cut is made in the root part, the bark is pushed aside and the rose cutting is inserted into the hole. The grafting site is tightly tied suitable material– electrical tape, adhesive tape, strips of fabric, polyethylene.

To avoid confusion - where is the top and where is the bottom of the spine, mark its upper part by creating an even or oblique cut.

The bushes prepared in this way are placed in a box. If there are a lot of sprouts, they are transferred with available materials (sawdust or moss), making sure that they are moist. To prevent mold, add a little crushed charcoal.


The boxes are placed in a cool place. The temperature should not exceed 15 degrees Celsius. Artificially created conditions such as high humidity, constant temperature promotes the appearance of growth at the grafting site. It is also called “callus” - a callus-like bud. It is important to maintain the required room temperature. If it decreases to +10 degrees, the formation of “callus” becomes more difficult. And elevated temperatures lead to active swelling of the kidneys.

After about 20 days, the boxes are moved to a room with more high temperature . By this time the buds will stop blooming. But the fusion will continue despite this. This is a long process that requires exposure and constant temperature conditions.

The cuttings will be completely connected to the roots in one and a half to two months. Remove the dressing material and plant the bushes in the ground, covering them with film. The buds should not be allowed to dry out. To do this, they are wrapped in earth in the form of a compacted small mound. As new shoots appear, the earth is gradually raked. This is best done in cloudy weather, or in the evening after sunset. This way you can avoid burns to weak emerging shoots.

After the appearance sufficient quantity leaves begin to form a rose bush. Trim the top of the shoot. This stops its development and leads to the appearance of lateral shoots. They are protected because they are the ones who will bloom. If the central young shoot continues to grow, it is pinched again around the 5th or 6th leaf. Correctly done grafting leads to the formation of 3-5 young symmetrically located shoots.

Grafting into a T-shaped incision, budding

This type of vaccination has its own characteristics. Using a budding knife, cut the peephole from the handle with or without wood. They step back 8 mm from the top of the bud and make a smooth cut down, leaving up to 12 mm under the bud.


To successfully carry out this operation you need to do the following:

  • a cross section is formed under the kidney. The movement should be smooth, capturing the wood along with the bark.
  • too much thick layer wood is unacceptable. It takes experience to properly separate the eye. Therefore, you should practice on rose hips.
  • Perfect cut it turns out smooth, 3-4 cm in length and without visible damage.

When selecting plantings, the stems that have flowered are examined. Cuttings are formed from their middle part.

The readiness of the buds for grafting is determined by the thorns. If they break off easily without a layer of bark, it means they are ripe.

Caring for grafted plants

For the further development of grafted roses they need proper care. The bush is watered abundantly for the first week.. The area around is cleared of weeds, the soil is loosened to prevent the appearance of pests.

After proper grafting, young shoots will form on the bush in the fall. In order for it to overwinter normally, it is hilled up, sprinkled and compacted.. In the spring they clear it all out.

At improper care A lot of young shoots grow at the base of the rosehip. It must be removed right at the root, without leaving stumps. Over time, it can drown out the main bush with its growth.

The next year, the grafted part of the plant is cut off by one eye. In 14-20 days the kidneys will wake up, and the rose will grow. With the appearance of three true leaves, the top of the shoot is pinched. In the future, the main task is to form a lush and spreading bush. And in the fall the plant is planted in a permanent place.


In conclusion, here are some useful tips:

  • for rootstock use plants with a well-developed root collar, up to 10 mm thick;
  • take mature branches, which break when bent;
  • optimal process thickness used for scion – 7 mm
  • cut off shoots better in the morning to preserve juice;
  • prepared scions stored in damp cloth pieces;
  • for comfort work better in dry weather.

Young grafted roses are planted in the shade. It is necessary to monitor how the bush takes root. If necessary, remove all dead branches and continue to care for roses.

Correct grafting of roses

Grafting roses is an event that allows you to propagate hybrid varieties roses It increases the plant's resistance to disease and improves winter hardiness.

How to graft a rose onto a rosehip

The grafting is the fusion of two shoots:

  • rootstock - a shoot onto which one is grafted;
  • scion - a shoot that is grafted.

The most common type of rose grafting is budding. It is carried out in mid-summer and is carried out using a peephole. To begin with, prepare the rose hips and cut out excess and old branches on it for convenience.

Source: Depositphotos

Grafting a rose onto a rosehip

Two weeks before grafting, they begin to water abundantly for better separation of the bark. A shoot ready for grafting must be fully mature, with easily detachable bark and mature buds.

When grafting in mid-July, a cut is made on the shoot in the shape of the letter T. The vertical line is approximately 2.5 cm, the horizontal line is 1 cm. The bark is carefully pulled apart to place the bud there.

Summer budding of roses

When budding roses, the root collar of the plant is initially freed, cleared of soil, and excess shoots are removed. A T-shaped cut is made with a knife, which is first disinfected in an alcohol solution.

The leaves of mature rosehip cuttings are removed and the top is trimmed. The eye is cut from the bottom up, capturing a thin layer of tree bark. The dormant rose hip bud is placed in the prepared incision. All parts protruding to the surface are removed. The grafting site is fixed with electrical tape or special film.

The vaccination is checked after 3 weeks. The bud in the scutellum should be swollen and green; if it turns black, then the grafting was unsuccessful.

In addition, rose grafting can be done as follows:

  • An oblique cut is made on the scion and rootstock at an angle of about 45°. The cut is treated with garden varnish and wrapped with film. A rose grafted in this way is placed in a trench with moss and sawdust.
  • At sub-zero temperatures it is placed in a bag with fertile soil and taken home to a heated place. In spring, roses are planted in open ground.
  • Dried cuttings of grafted roses are not planted in the spring.
  • In the fall, the plant, which has taken root, is earthed up to a height of about 5 cm above the grafting site.
  • In spring, the soil is hilled once a few centimeters below the grafting.
  • The film from the budding is removed, the rootstock shoot is cut at a height of 1 cm from the bud.
  • After two weeks, the bud takes root and forms shoots.
  • New shoots are pinched after 3–4 leaves have formed.

The sequence of grafting roses in summer can be seen in the video.

Correctly carried out vaccination procedure, as well as compliance with the requirements for further care will allow you to create a rose garden on the site.

Grafting roses onto a selected rose hip or rose bush should be done in the summer. Flower growers note that best time To carry out this manipulation is the end of July and the beginning of August. It is during this period that an increase in sap flow can be observed in the rootstock. Active sap flow makes it much easier to separate the bark from the wood, which increases the chances of good graft survival.

However, grafting of this flower can also be done in the spring. In this case, it is necessary to have time before the buds begin to bloom. Usually period spring vaccination falls at the end of April or beginning of May.

You can find information that this procedure was carried out in winter. This is the most complex format for grafting, as it involves planting young rosehip seedlings in flower pot, which should grow in the basement during the cold season. Cuttings are harvested in the fall and then stored in a cool place.

What can you graft a rose on?

Also, any rose bushes that grow in the garden can be used as a rootstock. In this case, the color of the inflorescences does not play any role. Almost any wild rose bush will be suitable as a rootstock.

However, there is no clear requirement that grafting be carried out exclusively on roses or rose hips.

In our country, the flower is most often grafted onto the rootstock of the Kanina rose. But here it is necessary to take into account its vigorous growth. If miniature or polyanthus species are grafted onto it, an increase in their growth will be observed, which is provoked by the powerful and branched underground root system of the rootstock. As a result, annual pruning will contribute to the rapid depletion of the roots, which will ultimately lead to the death of the entire bush.

Therefore, for miniature or polyanthus species, it is better to use fragrant (Rust) rose bushes as a rootstock. This bush is characterized by more moderate growth. Rose Fragrant is distinguished by a significant branching of the root system, good frost resistance and easy propagation.

In addition to these varieties, varieties such as the Wrinkled or Prickly rose can be used as a rootstock. But these varieties have a large number of thorns, which greatly complicates the grafting procedure. Therefore, many gardeners choose the Cinnamon (May) or Dog rose. These varieties have few thorns and other advantageous characteristics (such as winter hardiness).

As a result, before starting the grafting procedure, it is necessary to select the correct varieties for the scion and rootstock. At the same time, experts advise giving preference to those varieties that not only bloom beautifully, but also have other useful characteristics. These characteristics include:

  • cold resistance;
  • high immunity;
  • simple care, etc.;

These parameters will allow you to minimize the care of the bushes during the season, and will also protect the plants from freezing during the cold season.

What should the scion be like?

The key to successful vaccination is the correct choice of graft. To get a scion from the mother bush, you need to cut off the most mature branches. Next, their middle part is separated.

The scion should have smooth and shiny bark, as well as developed buds. Branches with such characteristics are grafted very easily.

Experienced gardeners To increase the chances of better survival, it is recommended to use the budding method. This method will be discussed below. Its use guarantees 90–100% vaccination effectiveness. Here one bud is taken, and not a whole cutting.

Preparing the rootstock

Before the grafting is carried out, not only the scion, but also the rootstock is prepared. The selected bush needs to be intensively moistened. It is important to best moisten the soil near the bush the day before the procedure. Watering carried out in this way will increase the intensity of sap flow.

Step-by-step instruction

It is best for roses to be grafted into the root collar. It is noted that this approach significantly increases the chances of scion survival. This procedure has the following step-by-step instructions:

  • the root collar is cleared of dirt;
  • then a cutting is taken. The most developed bud is cut off from it. You should leave some wood near the bud. The cutting is performed with a special shaped knife. Cut length – 3 cm;
  • After this, the scion turns over with the wood facing itself. The last bud is removed from it. As a result, only one bud remains on the bark;
  • A T-shaped cut is formed on the root collar. The edges of the cut must be carefully bent;
  • the scion is shortened so that it fits under the bark;
  • insert the scion into the cut. The kidney should remain outside. In this case, the bark of the cutting is placed under the bark of the neck.

All that remains is to secure the bark with ribbons cut from plastic film. After this, the root collar is covered with soil.

Further care

Caring for the bush involves excavating its root collar 14 days after the procedure. The accepted bud will be green. If the kidney is not accepted, the vaccination is repeated.

A bush with a scion is cared for in the same way as a regular rose. For the winter, pruning is carried out. The shoots located on the grafted bud are cut to 1.5 cm. The plant itself is covered with leaves and soil. The bush is covered from above protective material. Such protection will allow the plant to survive even severe frosts.

By following the instructions above, you can easily understand how to graft a rose correctly to achieve the desired result.

How to graft roses

Grafting roses

How to pinch a rose


Grafting, grafting is a way to get varietal roses quickly and with minimal costs. Beginning gardeners do not really like this method of growing roses. And first of all, because the question arises - what to vaccinate on?
There may be some rose bushes in the garden that can be used for rootstock. But it is not necessary to graft rose to rose. To successfully graft a rose, all you need to do is find a rose hip bush. At the same time, let it be known to you, the color of the inflorescences on the bush has absolutely no meaning.

Having found a suitable rose hip bush (it is advisable to look for rose hips in the forest), carefully dig it up, and very carefully and thoroughly rinse the roots so that no dirt remains on them. Find a section on the root that is about 5 cm thick. This is exactly the section you will need. The length of the segment is about 15 cm. Please note that the upper cut should be straight and the lower cut beveled.
Pour dry sawdust into a plastic bag, put the pieces of roots you got into them, and put the bag in a cool place. In this state, the roots will be stored until mid-March.
You will need to prepare rose cuttings in the fall. You need to harvest cuttings from shoots that have already bloomed. The thickness of the cuttings should be at least 5 cm, and each cutting should have at least two or three buds.

One of the most common methods of propagating roses is budding. Budding is the grafting of a cultivated rose with the eye (one formed bud) onto a rose hip. Choosing rose hips as a rootstock accelerates the growth of rose shoots and increases the overall frost resistance of the plant. This procedure is not as complicated as it seems, but you can see the result only on next year when the bud begins to grow.

How to choose a rootstock


The quality of a grafted rose largely depends on the rootstock, that is, on the rose hips. Yes, it is permissible to graft on almost any wild species, but not all of them are equivalent as a rootstock. Because the same variety develops differently on different rootstocks. In our country, the Canina rose (R. canina) is most widely used as a rootstock. It is found almost everywhere.

However, when giving preference to canina rose, you need to take into account its vigorous growth. When grafting varieties, for example, polyanthus or miniature roses This rootstock exhibits strong growth, which results from the strong root system of the rootstock. In the future, severe annual pruning will lead to depletion of the root system of the developed rootstock, gradual death of the roots and ultimately to the death of the plant. The grafting of these roses can be carried out on a rusty (fragrant) rose; this will be a less strong rootstock.

The rust rose rootstock has good winter hardiness, strong branching root system, has the ability to grow quickly and is easy to propagate. This rose is distinguished by its long, smooth and even root collar without thorns, long-lasting sap flow, easily detachable bark, durability, resistance to diseases and pests, and good compatibility with most varieties. Among the varieties of rose canina, over 20 subspecies have been identified, most suitable as a rootstock.

How to grow rootstock


In order to grow the rootstock yourself, you need to collect rose hips when they turn brown (late summer - early September), and when the seeds are ripe and their dense shell has not yet hardened. In colored fruits, the seeds, as a rule, already have a very coarsened, very hard shell. The seeds are immediately cleared of pulp. The longer the seeds remain in the fruit, the drier and harder the shell becomes. Then they are washed, mixed with moistened sand and stored until planting at 3-5 degrees Celsius.
You should try not to dry out the seeds, as after this they fall into deep dormancy. Seeds should be sown in October before the soil freezes or at the end of April. Since seed germination in the first year is low (19-20%), seeds stratified in sand are often stored and sown the next year.
Seeds should be sown in the ground to a depth of 3-4 cm, 4-5 g per 1 linear meter furrows. After sowing, the soil is mulched with wet sawdust and humus.

When choosing a rootstock, it is permissible to use other wild rose hips:

Rose multiflora (R. multiflora)
- this species is short-lived and has poor winter hardiness.

Rust or fragrant rose (Rosa rubiginosa, syn. Rosa elanteria) - This rose has a superficial root system.

Gray or red-leaved rose (Rosa glauca syn. Rosa rubrifolia) - this rose has very beautiful bluish-green leaves, often with purple-red veins. In some forms, the upper side of the leaf is glaucous and the lower side is purple. It is not resistant to diseases, winter-hardy.

Rose rugosa (R. rugosa) - produces abundant root shoots and has a good root collar.

Rose Rosalaxa (R. laxa) - this rose is very winter-hardy and unpretentious, promising for rose cultivation in the northern regions.

These species grow wild. Although they have some advantages, they are still inferior the best forms Kanina roses.

Stratification is the keeping of seeds that are difficult to germinate and have a long dormant period in a moist porous substrate at a low temperature or under snow.
Reception accelerates germination and increases seed germination. For stratification, the seeds are placed in damp sand (1 part of seeds: 3 parts of sand), which is moistened if necessary during autumn - spring, and stored at a temperature of 2-3 ° C.

When the seedlings have at least two true leaves, they are planted in beds in very loose, fertile soil. The distance between seedlings should be 5 cm, between rows - 10-15 cm, while pinching the root system for greater branching. In order to increase resistance to the “black leg”, the picked seedlings need to be watered with a medium solution of potassium permanganate. After planting, the seedlings are watered and mulched to cover the root collar.

Seedlings need care throughout the entire period. Particular attention is paid to fertilizing and treatment against diseases (feeding with a weak solution of mullein).

In autumn, annual seedlings are dug up and sorted. In unfavorable years, seedlings grow poorly and can be left for another year. For planting for grafting next year, seedlings with a straight root collar, at least 4-5 mm thick and a well-branched root system are selected. The remaining seedlings need to be grown for another year.

The procedure for growing a rootstock is very long and labor-intensive. From the moment of collecting seeds to obtaining a standard rosehip seedling, as a rule, three to four years pass. But you can buy rosehip seedlings in nurseries.

This fall or in early spring Rosehip seedlings are planted on

specially prepared area. Before planting, the roots are shortened to 15 cm, and the above-ground part to 10 cm. Seedlings are placed in a row at a distance of 15-20 cm, the distance between rows is 60-70 cm. The planting depth should be such that the root collar is near the soil. Seedlings definitely need to be trained a little.
Before budding, the diameter of the root collar should be at least 7 mm. For winter budding, it is allowed to use seedlings with a root collar diameter of 8-13 mm.

Summer budding


The most suitable and optimal time The period from July 15 to August 15 is suitable for summer budding. In the southern regions, budding can be carried out later.
At this time, there is intense downward sap flow and the bark lags well behind the wood.
If the rose hips have grown greatly and this interferes with budding, then some branches can be cut out. For better separation of the bark, the rootstock is well watered a week before budding.
It is best to harvest cuttings immediately before budding. For cuttings, you need to choose mature shoots with well-formed eyes (buds). A mature shoot can be called one in which the thorns are well separated. On cut shoots, you need to remove the leaves, leaving the petioles (Fig.1).

The most mature, healthy and suitable for budding eyes are located in the middle of the cutting. If there is such a need, the cuttings can be saved for grafting for a month or more. They should be stored wrapped in damp paper or a cloth and in a plastic bag at 2-4°C. When stored more than two within weeks the leaf petioles fall off,and this makes it difficult to insert the peephole.
Budding is performed at the root collar of the rootstock using a dormant eye.

The root collar is loosened, cleared of soil, wiped with a cloth until light tone bark and make a T-shaped incision on it with a sharp budding knife. (Fig.2).


Then cut off the eye with the shield about 2 cm (the eye on the shield should be in the middle). Cut with a small part of the wood or without it (Fig. 3). Thin layer Wood can be removed during budding.
As a rule, the wood from a mature cutting is separated quite easily, but if you do this carelessly, you can damage the bud.

Using a bone located on the budding knife, the bark is spread apart in a T-shaped incision and the peephole is inserted there, holding it by the edge of the leaf petiole (Fig.4).



Sap flow occurs twice during the growing season. The first sap flow begins in early spring, even before the buds open, and is called ascending, in other words, the sap flows from the root system upward to the shoots. This sap flow ends when the leaves are fully developed. At the end of summer, roses begin a second sap flow, which is called downward - this is when some of the substances that have accumulated in the leaves and shoots begin to descend down the bark and are deposited on winter period in root tissues.
Budding can be carried out during both sap flows.

The upper part of the shield, if necessary, is trimmed so that the shield fits tightly into the cut. Then you need to tie it plastic film or special adhesive tape (Fig. 5).

Polyethylene tapes should be 25-30 cm long and 10-13 mm wide. They need to be cut in the direction of smooth stretching of the film. Ribbons that were cut without following this rule will tear at the slightest effort rather than stretch. Before you plant the cuttings, you need to remove the adhesive tape from them.
When budding, a well-sharpened knife should be used, and the utmost cleanliness, care and precision should be observed.

It would not be superfluous to remind you once again that the budding steps (Fig. 2, 4, 5) must be carried out in the ground, on the uncultivated root collar.

The grafted rose hips are sprinkled with earth. After 3-4 weeks you can check how the eyes are taking root. A sign of successful fusion is the drying and breaking off of a piece

leaf petiole and green bud.
For the winter, the grafted rose hips need to be hilled to a height of 25-30 cm.
Summer budding is also called sleeping eye budding, since after grafting the bud does not grow, but “sleeps” until spring. It happens that the eye sprouts at the beginning of a warm autumn, in which case it is pinched so that the developing shoot has time to become lignified by winter.
At the end of April, the roses need to be unplanted by cutting the rootstock 0.5 cm above the grafted eye, remove the binding, and cover the cut with garden varnish. After which the bushes are lightly hilled again. After 2-3 weeks, the eyes begin to sprout.

Budding can also be carried out in the spring, during the first intense sap flow. This is especially recommended for re-grafting failed buddings from last year. Spring budding should be carried out as soon as sap flow begins, since the bark is well removed from the wood. It is called budding with a germinating eye, since the grafted bud will soon germinate. Cuttings for spring budding are prepared in the fall or taken from the greenhouse. You can also use eyes that are taken from rose cuttings that have been cut and overwintered well in the ground.

The shoot that emerged from the grafted eye is pinched after the 3-4th leaf appears. There are cases when not just one shoot begins to grow, but also additional shoots from inconspicuous reserve buds. In order to form a branched bush, all new shoots that have appeared are also pinched and the emerging buds are removed. Developing occulants need to be properly cared for.
In autumn, well-formed annual roses are dug up for sale or planting in a permanent place. A dug-out annual bush is considered the best planting material.


Winter vaccination

For winter grafting, you need to select seedlings with a root collar 8-10 cm in diameter. In the fall, such a rootstock should be buried in the basement in damp sand or sawdust at a temperature of -1 ° to 1 ° C. Cuttings for grafting should be taken from bushes in a greenhouse or in late autumn from roses that grow on open ground, preserving them until grafting.
In the second half of winter, the rootstock is brought into a warm room and, after holding it in the soil for 5-7 days, grafting begins. Vaccination can be carried out different ways, but not with a peephole into the T-shaped incision, since in winter time there is no sap flow.
When grafting with a cutting behind the bark, the cuttings are cut with 2-3 well-formed buds. On the cutting, make an upper straight cut 0.5 cm above the bud and an oblique cut under the bud. The rootstock is cut into a stump, a longitudinal vertical cut is made on it and the cutting is inserted (with an oblique cut down) behind the bark bent back with the tip of a knife, the graft is tightly secured and tied.

Open cuts on the rootstock and the top of the cuttings should be covered with garden varnish.
When grafting into the butt with a tongue and without a tongue, the cutting is cut off as in the previous case. The rootstock is cut to a stump and a side cut is made on it. To better hold the handle, the cut can be made with a tongue. The cutting is applied with an oblique cut to the side cut on the rootstock.



You can graft into a side cut without cutting the rootstock onto the stump (Fig. 8). After which the grafted cuttings are tied, and all cuts are covered with garden varnish. Cleft grafting and improved copulation are also used.
In the best way For grafting roses in winter, it is customary to consider butt budding. This method is more economical, but the most important thing is that there is a good fusion of the rootstock and the scion. The eye, cut off with a shield with a small layer of wood, is grafted not under the bark, but butt-wise, to a side cut made on the rootstock. The cut must be at least 2 cm. For greater strength, a special tongue is made on the rootstock. In order for it to quickly take root, you need to combine the shield with the bud with the cut on the root collar. If the size of the shield does not correspond to the cut, then combine at least one side of the shield with the cut on the root collar. After the shield is tightly connected to the rootstock, the grafts are tied.

Roses that are grafted in one way or another are placed obliquely in a trench with damp moss or sawdust. Best conditions For the fusion of rootstock and scion, a temperature of 15-18°C and moderate humidity are considered. However, the grafted plants should not be allowed to dry out.

After 15-20 days, fusion occurs. When budding at the butt, the rootstock is cut 0.5 cm above the grafted bud. The bindings on grafted roses are removed only when the cuttings or buds grow well with the rootstock. Grafted roses are planted in plastic bags, containers or pots and keep them in a warm room at 20°C, growing them.
When the shoots begin to grow, they are pinched to form well-developed bushes. In order for the seedlings to grow further, they are transferred to open ground with a lump of earth. If not warm room, then after growing together they are left in damp sand, sawdust or moss until spring at 1-3°C, and in the spring they are planted in open ground for further growth and the formation of good bushes.

Reproduction standard roses


Roses can be formed not only in the form of bushes, but also in the form of small trees, with a trunk of any height. It takes longer to propagate and grow standard roses than to propagate bush roses. For example, it will take you 3-4 years just to grow a standard rootstock 1.5-2 m high. Therefore, much attention is paid to the selection of special vigorous forms of rootstock and high agricultural technology.
Strong annual rosehip seedlings are planted in a well-fertilized area.

In addition to budding in open ground, roses can also be grafted using cuttings. The imperfection of all grafting with cuttings is the breaking off of the not completely fused cutting with the rootstock. In the best way Grafting roses in winter involves budding against a side cut made on the rootstock. For greater strength, a special tongue is made on the rootstock.

By the autumn of the 3rd, or even only the 4th year, renewal shoots grow 1.5-2 m high with a trunk more than 1 cm in diameter. The appearance of such shoots is facilitated by the spring cutting of part of last year's renewal shoots. On each bush, choose one tallest and straightest shoot - best of all, the one that appears in the spring and manages to become lignified by autumn. This will be the standard rootstock. The remaining shoots are cut out at the very root collar. In the fall, the finished rootstock can be dug up, buried horizontally and covered with spruce branches for the winter. If the standard rootstock has been dug up, it is planted in the spring and grafted at the same time as spray roses, - from mid-July to mid-August.
Budding is carried out on a standard in the usual way, departing 40-50 cm from the top. One-year shoots should not be budded too high, since their upper part contains a lot of moisture and the rootstock does not grow together with the scion. Two eyes are inserted into the T-shaped incision from opposite sides at a distance of 2-3 cm from one another. Double vaccination helps the formation of more lush crown. It is not recommended to graft more than two buds, since the third eye will not develop well. The survival rate of standard rootstock is higher than that of bush rootstock.

You can also graft two varieties that differ in color onto one standard. Standard forms are always, so to speak, the gardener’s “aerobatics.” Low stems 70-100 cm high are usually used for miniature roses, medium ones - 125-150 cm - for hybrid tea, floribunda, and high ones 150-200 cm - for climbing and cascading ground cover roses.

For the winter, the grafted trunk must be bent, covered with earth and covered with spruce branches. In the spring, the trunk must be lifted, tied to a stake and trimmed above the grafted bud. The cut should be covered with garden varnish.