Design of door and window openings for a log or timber bathhouse. A frame in a log house - we make a window and door opening in the wall Installing a door to a house made of rounded logs

Installing doors and windows in a log house is a responsible undertaking. Installation is complicated by the fact that, as is known, wood is capable of changes - shrinkage, shrinkage, etc. Therefore, in order to avoid defects and not spend money on purchasing new kits, you must carefully read these instructions and be sure to follow her advice.

Leaving the log house open is important

What does this phrase mean? But here's the thing - after the construction is completed, the most intense moment of shrinkage begins, which will last at least a year. During this time, if the doors and windows are already installed, they will simply be crushed.

Moreover, wood is much stronger than metal and can bend, even, it seemed, reliable designs. To prevent something irreparable from happening, you should carefully consider what is described below.

Before starting work, you should know in advance what size the entrance and swing structures will be. Usually, if the project is standard, then all measurements are put aside on drawings and diagrams and there is no need to bother. But if the log house is installed independently, then there is something to think about and decide quickly, since it is necessary that the cut opening fits together with the entire structure.

So, the installation stages:

Before the log house has to be left to shrink, it is recommended to make the necessary openings. How to saw through a door in a log house? Actually this is not the most difficult question.

Determined required size, and the diagonals must be taken into account, and the outline is drawn on the log house. You need to make sure that the bottom log is divided in half, and the top one too. Then 7 to 10 cm is added to these sides for shrinkage.

The thickness of the door frame ± 2-3 cm is added to the side ones. It is necessary to fill the edges of the future opening with boards to protect the short crowns from falling out. Thus, when the contours are ready, the desired size is selected with a saw.

If the log house assumes the presence of several entrances, one of which must be the front entrance, then the question of how to cut a door in the log house, when a greater distance is required, must be resolved more scrupulously. Board protection must be present on both sides - external and internal.

Moment of sawing

To avoid any difficulties with the question of how to cut a door in a log house, you must first determine the middle log of the opening and make slits on it. After that it is easy to knock it inside. Well, then working with a saw will no longer be difficult.

If everything was done correctly and the soil did not fail, then you can begin the next stage - how to insert a door into a log house when the structure is already ready. If the opening does not meet the requirements, it is adjusted to the required size.

Door installation methods

Casing

To ensure that the door in the log house does not fail and the house itself does not have an unfavorable effect on the structure, you should think about such a product as a casing. What it is?

This door element, having a longitudinal tenon, which is inserted into the vertical side walls and, thus, further shrinkage can only affect it, without affecting the door in any way. The question of how to embed a door into a log house can be solved perfectly with the help of a casing.

How to do it? An end groove is selected in the sides of the opening. The box already contains a spike.

The space selected with a chisel is compacted, for example, with tow, and the side board is installed. Then the upper horizontal part is attached. It will serve as a spacer.

It cannot be left without a gap of 5 cm with the log house. Self-tapping screws and nails are suitable as fasteners. The bottom one can also be cut for a tenon.

The next method is on bars

Its difference is that bars with a cross section of 5*5 cm are inserted into the vertical groove selected on the sides of the opening. This is done to save material, and even if the door already comes with a frame.

The bars can be wrapped in tow and fixed in the grooves, and then the door frame is attached to them in the same order - a side part, a horizontal strut, the next side and a threshold. The disadvantage of solving such an issue - how to install a door in a log house on bars - is the possible weakening of the frame due to the smallness of the intra-groove material.

Installation of metal doors

In this case, no cuts are made. The box is installed using anchor bolts and a hammer drill. First, all metal racks are aligned to the ideal position, because the material is not soft, unlike wood, and will not bend at will.

The canvas is hung at the very end, when confidence comes in the correctness of the solution to the question - how to make a door in a log house from metal. Better installation Such massive, but necessary for the protection of structures, should be left to professionals.

If only because such a door itself is terribly heavy and the installation period can become a real torment for the owner. Yes, and it won’t take long to strain yourself.

One of the most critical operations during construction wooden house– marking and cutting out the window opening. Mistakes at this stage will lead to many problems with insulation or to the need to strengthen the opening after it has been created. This review contains information on how to cut a window in wooden house and prevent gross errors in marking and during installation operations.

Separately, we note that the window in the log house has its own functional purpose a more important node than a similar element in a stone house, as it further strengthens the connection between the logs. Therefore, the thoroughness of each stage of its production must be extremely high.

A log house, despite its external solidity, is a rather unstable structure. The reason of that - round form logs and changes in their geometric dimensions during shrinkage and shrinkage.

Under the influence of the weight of the roof and attic in log house Wall distortion often occurs in vertical plane. If the crowns were laid without additional fixation, the lower logs can be squeezed out either inside the room or outside. In practice, such displacements from the vertical axis can reach up to 3-5 cm, while the entire wall is under significant stress.

If you cut openings for windows and doors in such a wall, it will simply collapse. Therefore, the entire structure of the window openings is not only a place for installing double-glazed windows, but also a power unit that gives the frame additional rigidity.

Note that this feature is inherent in all wooden buildings, including houses made of profiled timber.

Features of installing windows in wooden houses

Taking into account the factors listed in the previous section, an additional strength structure is almost always installed between the window and the frame - a casing frame assembled in such a way as to counteract both vertical compressive forces and longitudinal ones.

There are three main types of casing frames:

spiked socket (T-shaped);
casing into a deck (U-shaped);
pigtail in the embedded block.

the upper and lower edges of the opening should pass through the center of the log (or cover 1/3). This is necessary for normal operation casing and prevention of problems with insulation;
It is advisable to mark horizontal lines using precise level gauges;
Make vertical markings only along a plumb line.

If you plan to do the work yourself, you should take care in advance to prepare the appropriate equipment.

The main tool used in arranging window and door openings is chain saw(or its electric version).

If there are many windows, and you plan to chamfer for installation of platbands, we recommend making a special device based on the corner grinder, with the help of which the time spent on this operation will be reduced significantly.

First working stage: cutting out the opening

After the marking is completed, cutting out the opening begins. During this seemingly simple operation, the following rules must be observed:

the cutting plane must be strictly perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the logs;
The cutting line should run in such a way that there are no distortions and spontaneous falling out of the logs.

After cutting the opening, it is necessary to check the condition of the end of the frame to ensure that the vertical axis is maintained. If deviations are noticed, then next stage work - leveling the wall.

This is done using special devices, pulling the logs into one line.

This screed is temporary and is dismantled after installation of the casing.

Please note that in cases where an increase in wall distortions is detected, it is advisable to install a U-shaped version of the frame.

Step two: creating a tenon or groove

When marking cutting lines, it should be taken into account that each line must be on the same plane with a similar line at the opposite end of the opening.

If the work is done with a chain saw, first cut from the end of the logs and only then remove the rest of the material.

After the tenons (or grooves) are formed, the ends of the opening are treated with an antiseptic compound.

Note that from a technological point of view, a groove cut deep into a log is more complex than an external tenon. In industrial conditions, such an operation is performed using a milling cutter; in field conditions, using a chain saw.

Step three: installation of the pigtail

The preparation of the opening is completed by installing the casing frame. It is not recommended to leave a freshly cut opening without a fixing structure, as this can lead to distortions.

The assembly of the frame begins with the installation of insulation. Currently, the most popular (and most convenient) material for this operation is jute tape. The tape can be secured with furniture staples.

To improve thermal insulation, locks at the joints of vertical and horizontal frame posts can be sealed with elastic sealant.

After assembly is completed, the upper expansion gap is filled with the same sealant that was used to install the vertical posts.

Concluding the review of the process of cutting a window opening in log house, please note that real wooden Construction Materials rarely correspond to the declared dimensional characteristics, so it is advisable to invite a specialist with extensive practical experience to carry out markings.

The Master Srubov company accepts orders for the installation of windows and doors in wooden houses, including operations for enlarging windows, manufacturing and installing casing. You can order a visit from a specialist to accurately assess the condition of the object and calculate a preliminary estimate via e-mail or by phone numbers published in the section.

When shrinking log house Incorrectly installed window and door frames can become deformed. To avoid this, the openings in the log house for doors and windows are mounted in a “sliding” manner, allowing the structure to sit down unhindered.

When starting the construction of a log house, you can choose two options when designing openings:

The first involves the construction of a log house without windows and doors. The necessary openings are made after the house has stood for 1 - 2 years.
An alternative to long waits is the manufacture of window and doorways simultaneously with the construction of walls.

Both options are acceptable and require strict compliance with the requirements for constructing a casing (pipe). And it is important to remember that the location of the openings must be planned in advance to avoid irrational laying of dowels. Special attention should be given to window partitions. To prevent squeezing out under the weight of the roof, at least two dowels on the crown must be installed in the walls near the openings.

The role of the casing (casing) and its types

What is a pigtail and what is it for? A casing (casing or casing box) is nothing more than a prefabricated wooden frame with a specific connection that allows the structure not to deform when the log house moves. Windows or doors are subsequently installed in the casing boxes.

For clarity, let's consider general form design of openings with casing:

The following functions fully reveal the purpose of the pigtail:

Casing creates reliable connection in the opening of the log house.
The necessary compensation gap is created between the frame and the top log.
Sliding joint protects against deformation installed windows and doors during settlement and other movements of the frame.
Windows and doors can be mounted into frames without much difficulty.

Depending on whether the log house will be sheathed in the future finishing materials or not, there are two types of socket: “rough” and “finish”. Draft type allows rough processing logs and saplings. The finishing option assumes that the casing will be installed without further finishing of the log house. Cleaning the socket both from the outside and from the inside The log house is decorated with platbands. Notches should be made under the platbands in the logs. For walls made of carriages or timber, cutting off the openings for joinery is not required.

Types of casing connections in log openings

To securely fix the frame with the log house opening, you can use the following tongue-and-groove connections:

Spike connection	Connection "in the deck"

Longitudinal grooves are selected in the timber on both sides. In the opening, a corresponding vertical groove is cut along the cuts of the logs. The jambs are inserted with T-shaped tenons into the grooves and spread out with transverse boards.	With this connection, all cuts and grooves are made in mirror image. That is, a tenon is made in the logs, and a groove is made in the jambs. The elements are assembled in the same order as for a finger joint.

How to make a frame for openings in a log house

The table below describes the main stages of installing a casing box:

After assembling the log house, using a level and tape measure, the openings are marked in accordance with the project. They are cut out and leveled with a saw. A tenon (or groove) is made at the ends of the logs.
In the side jambs of the casing, a groove (or tenon, depending on the chosen connection method) is selected for the previously made tenon (or groove). The jambs are installed in openings without rigid attachment to the walls of the log house. Platbands, when used, are attached only to the frame of the openings.
The jambs are slotted onto the tenons and are pushed apart first by the lower frame, then by the top. Between the top of the casing (4) and the overlying log must provide a gap (5 - 6% of the height of the door or window (3) ). Upper clearance and seats filled with moss, linen or other sealant (1) . After trimming the openings, windows (doors) can be inserted into them. (2 - platband).

Video addition

By following all the rules when creating openings in a log house, at the final stage you will receive high-quality and neat places for installing window and door units.

A wooden house or bathhouse changes in size all the time - it either “sits down” a little, then rises again. Therefore, simply taking and rigidly fastening windows and doors into the openings will not work: either the frames will bend or the walls will “hang” and will not be able to sit down when they dry out. To prevent this from happening, a wooden casing (casing or casing) is installed in the opening, which is held in place only by friction. It is already possible to attach a window or door frame to the elements of this box.

First, let's look at the casing profiles. Fixation due to friction is ensured by a simple tongue-and-groove lock. In one case, a tenon is made on the logs/beam of the opening, in the other, a groove is cut out.

If your bathhouse is wooden - a frame made of logs or timber, then the technology for installing windows and doors will be exactly the same as in the house. No difference. So everything described applies to the bathhouse.

Monolithic casing boxes

The mating part is often made from solid wooden beam. They are also called monolithic or finishing. Depending on whether the groove is cut or a tenon, the mating part is made U- or T-shaped. Please note that when installing windows or doors, the fasteners should not go into the beam/log of the wall. To ensure proper reliability, the frames are mounted in the “thickest” parts of the casing.

The casing is made of timber, in which a groove is selected or a tenon is cut. Accordingly, casing/edge profiles are U- or T-shaped

The material for the casing is monolithic or laminated veneer lumber. The use of laminated veneer lumber in bathhouses is not recommended: when using non-moisture resistant glue (and this usually happens), constant changes in humidity cause the glue to break down and the timber to crumble. Therefore, it is better to use monolithic timber of the required size. Just note that the timber must be dry - no more than 12% humidity. If it's wet, it will crack or warp. Order timber from the sawmill the right size chamber drying, or dry it yourself for 4-6 months in the shade in a draft.

This type of casing is called monolithic or capital. You can already attach a window or door frame to it. If the windows/doors are plastic, the “face” of the casing can be left flat. If you plan to install wooden products, a quarter is chosen for them.

Which of these two casings/pipelines is considered the best? When done correctly, both perform their tasks normally. Everyone chooses what is easier for them to do.

How to make a tenon on an opening

There are two options - first cut the tenon in doorway, then make a casing block under it. The second option is to mark the tenon along the finished groove. In any case, markings are applied first.

The width and depth of the tenon should be 4-5 mm smaller sizes groove. The casing is “planted” on the insulation, so space is required for it. The width is marked at the end of the logs/beams, the depth - on the side surface of the walls. When marking, it is important to maintain the verticality of the lines.

Next, take a circular or chain saw, and cuts are made according to the applied marks. In this case, it is important to maintain the required cutting depth on the side surfaces and not cut off the tenon completely. If you are not very good with a chain saw, it is better to use a circular saw - you won’t be able to cut very deep there.

For an example of the formation of a spike, see the video.

Making a groove in the opening

It’s safer to make a groove: even if the cuts are too deep, you don’t have to remove the entire core; in extreme cases, you’ll make the tenon on the post larger.

Everything is simpler here: you mark the width of the groove at the end. In this case, it is 4-5 mm larger than the groove on the casing/pipe. Make two cuts and remove the middle between them. There are virtuosos who do this with a chain saw, but mostly they work with an axe, then they work part-time with a chisel.

Manufacturing of casing

The casing consists of two sidewalls (side posts), a top - the top board and a window sill or threshold (also called a bottom). It must be said that the lower part is not always present: it is often not made in interior doors. In some cases (when installing PVC windows, for example), they do not make a window sill, but simply a lower embedded board, to which a “standard” window sill is then attached.

Also note that the top does not rest against the top edge of the window or door opening. There remains a gap of 5-7 cm between them - for shrinkage of the log house. This gap is then filled with insulation and covered with platbands and finishing materials.

The most questions arise when forming the locks necessary for joining parts of the casing. These elements are especially difficult if a quarter sample is required. It’s difficult to explain in words, let’s provide drawings. Take a look at them and maybe you’ll understand what’s what. But the final understanding will come in the process: when you put the bottom and attach the side posts. They are outlined with a pencil, then gradually cut out. IN this process It is important not to cut off the excess - it won’t be possible to grow it and there will be unsightly gaps.

Before installing the casing, the window/door opening is treated with an antiseptic. Then two layers of insulation are laid. The structure is “dressed” on it. The procedure for assembling the casing on the windows is as follows:

The lower part is installed.
Place two side panels and check that the locks match accurately. You hit it well on the sides.
Place the top. Often it “doesn’t fit” - the racks are closer than necessary. Don't take up the saw right away. Take spacers of the length that the opening should be, and with their help bring the window to the required dimensions. First, place it diagonally, then, knocking it out, straighten it out. The sidewalls crush the insulation and occupy the required position. After which the apex falls into place.

Rough casing or embedded block

One of the varieties of piping, when a groove is cut into the opening, is inserted into an embedded block. It differs from a monolith in that it consists of two parts - the actual embedded block, which is inserted into the tenon, and a separate casing board. The casing board is attached to the embedded beam, and it can already be attached to it door frame(it can also be attached directly to the mortgage).

Please note that the embedding block and the tenon under it are made a little larger than in a monolith. This is necessary to make the fastening more reliable. When fixing windows/doors, fasteners must be chosen so that they do not go into the wall.

Of course, this option is much easier to implement. But they don’t really like it: its reliability is still much lower than that of a monolith. But it can also be used for light doors and any windows. Another possible use is as a temporary option only for the period of shrinkage after the openings have been cut out and the frame has been left to dry. If the openings are not secured, the walls may twist. In this case, embedded timber is an excellent solution.

A groove is cut out into which the timber is driven. It is no longer held in place by anything - no nails, no self-tapping screws.

Photo report on the production of the finishing pigtail

The work was carried out in a log house that had been standing for a year. We used purchased kiln-drying timber and the remnants of profiled construction, which had been drying along with the house for a year. The casing is monolithic U-shaped. The width of the tenon was approximately 45 mm. This distance remains if you make a cut circular saw on both sides of the wall. In order not to modify it later with a chain saw, it was decided to make the tenon wider. Its height is 35 mm. The spike under the bottom/window sill is 1 cm high. Its task is to prevent a draft from occurring.

We start by preparing the openings. First, cuts were made in the side planes of the walls using a circular saw. WITH vertical problems did not arise, and when cutting horizontally, the saw kept trying to go up and down. Be careful in this part.

Then we take a chain saw and modify the tenon. This is the most responsible and delicate work. We make the first pass from top to bottom. Its depth is only 1-2 cm. All subsequent ones are from bottom to top, gradually increasing the depth. In order not to mess up, we used a step-by-step algorithm: first we made a cut with a circular saw, retreating 0.5-1 centimeter from the cut, we cut with a chain saw, and then required depth We finished it with a grinder and a plane. Long, but reliable.

The opening is ready. Let's start making the casing. The first thing we do is the bottom-window sill. We make a groove in it with a depth of 10*45 mm. Also, do not forget about the protrusions: the window sill must “fit” onto the wall.

Now we make the sides. They are made of 200*100 mm timber. It was adjusted to size and polished. The groove was formed using a milling cutter. It could have been done with a circular saw - it would have been faster, but less accurate.

After using a circular saw, a quarter is made - its size is 70-30 mm.

Next you need to cut out the locks. On the sides, those that go to the bottom, are simple. All you need to do is cut off 20-40 mm on three sides. If, like me, there is a quarter, then on this side we cut out less to the depth of the quarter, i.e. cut out 10 mm (40 mm - 30 mm = 10 mm). Now the spike is ready.

Next, we place it on the lower part, trace the outline with a pencil, and remove all excess. The castle is ready. Having installed everything in place, we see quite decent gaps. Now the task is to bring them to a minimum through gradual adjustment. The main thing here is not to cut off the excess, since it is impossible to increase it. Therefore, little by little we polish and try on, polish and try on.

When the bottom locks are ready and adjusted, you can cut the sides. They should not reach the top of the opening by 6 cm. This is how we cut it.

We make the top itself in the same way as the side posts, then cut out a quarter of it. You'll have to tinker with the lock. There are two conditions:

The distance at the top should be the same as at the bottom. We adjust all the dimensions of the spike based on this postulate.
Then we also outline it, but the shape here is much more complicated. It is advisable to cut it so that there are no through connections, so that air does not have the opportunity to freely enter from the street.

That's why we make stepped cuts.

When the mold is ready, the fitting begins again by sanding. We work gradually, slowly. When the desired result is achieved, we disassemble the box, sand it, and round the edges. In general, we bring beauty.

After sanding, we cover all parts (including openings) with antiseptics. After drying, the casing elements can be painted in the required color. In any case, you can go through the paint once.

While everything is drying, we place jute tape in the opening. There is no tape covering the entire width of the casing; it was laid in two parts with an overlap in the tenon area. Apply a layer of sealant on top of the insulation.

First, they laid the bottom (it was never possible to install it on jute - it was torn off during installation, but the voids were filled later). The sides sat down, but with difficulty. And here top part didn't fit in at all.

We take the spacer, first set it obliquely, then use a hammer to make it more horizontal. The sides are moving little by little. As a result of these manipulations, the upper part also fell into place.

After installation, the spacers “settled” and the upper part of the casing

To prevent it from moving, we install wedges. They are removed after installing window or door blocks. This is what happened as a result.

Hello, Semenych. Please tell me how to transfer doorway interior door in a wooden house? The wall material is logs. Thank you in advance!

Evgeny, Barnaul.

Hello, Evgeniy from Barnaul!

There is little good in such a transfer, because, firstly, the structural strength of the structure decreases ( interior wall, as a rule, is the same load-bearing structure as the external walls of the log house, since elements often rest on it rafter system or interfloor covering). Secondly, the old doorway needs to be repaired, but during such an operation the place of repair will be visually noticeable, which not all clients like, since it is unlikely that it will be possible to fit the “patch” perfectly. Or do we have to close this whole business with various decorative elements.

Technically, this is done approximately as follows. On both sides of the old doorway, technological racks made of metal assortment or wooden board with a cross section of at least 10*5 centimeters. For greater strength, such racks can be located in pairs, opposite each other on both sides of the wall. The height of the racks is not less than the height of the door, it is better to be 15-20 centimeters larger to capture the first solid log above the doorway. Through the holes in the racks they are secured to the walls. The goal is to prevent the logs from falling out in one direction or another.

After this the old one is dismantled door block along with the door panel. A new doorway is marked. In some cases, depending on individual characteristics buildings, next to the future opening, exactly the same technological racks mentioned above can be installed. This is done if there is a threat of wall collapse. But this is determined by the location; see for yourself how “flimsy” the wall is.

A new doorway is cut out with dimensions completely identical to the old doorway.

The previously removed door block is inserted into the cut, preferably without the door panel, which is installed only after the block frame has been aligned strictly in accordance with the vertical level in two planes. This refers to planes “neither to the right nor to the left” and neither to one side of the vertical wall nor to the other.

The cut is made with a chain saw or reciprocating saw, hand hacksaw It’s also possible, but this requires appropriate skill, since the hacksaw blade can move to the right or left. You can also saw with a circular saw, but it’s better on one side, and then finish it with a hacksaw, it’s more convenient.

If you are making a cut with a power tool for the first time, then first cut on one side at a risk, five centimeters deep, no more, along the entire contour of the opening.

Then, on the other side of the wall, you will need a partner who will tell you whether you are moving the bar or saw blade too far away from the mark when making a through cut.

Fastening through vertical and horizontal frame elements. There are usually three fastenings on the vertical ones. Above, below and in the middle. Along the top crossbar and along the threshold (if any) - from one to two fastenings. It is preferable to use self-tapping screws, so that if further adjustment is necessary, the screws can simply be unscrewed. When fastening with nails, this will not work; there you will “punch” it so hard with a nail puller that there will be dents and sometimes you will have to use it. However, all these are related little things that need not be discussed.

Then, if necessary, fill the gaps between the ends of the wall logs and the block frame with insulation or macroflex foam. If foam is used, then a transverse block is inserted in the middle of the height of the frame, since otherwise the foam may bend vertical elements to such an extent that even the cloth will not fit. Frame the opening with platbands.

You close the old opening either using cut logs from the new opening, or with other material (panels, sheets, blockhouse, clapboard, imitation timber, etc.) or other decorative elements to your taste.

Remove all technological supports around the old and new openings.

/In rare cases, they can be left when there are doubts about the strength and stability of the wall after moving the door. With the sealing of these racks with decorative elements, most often in the form of vertical polished boards installed in the form of boxes. But, I repeat, this is decided locally and as needed./

All. Good luck!

Other questions on the topic of metal and interior doors, windows:

Doors

Installation of doors in an opening made of tongue-and-groove gypsum boards
Installing a metal entrance door in a log house