Simple brick stoves for the home. How to lay brick stoves for your home with your own hands - types of stoves, laying methods

IN small houses where the use of modern heating systems is not required, it is possible to use a conventional wood-burning stove to heat the premises. At the same time, not every owner knows how to build a stove in the house. Wood stoves have the following advantages:

quite small in size;
high level work efficiency;
convenience and ease of maintenance;
inexpensive type of fuel.

System characteristics

IN Lately High-quality stove heating equipped with a boiler with a water circuit has become widespread. Its main advantage is to increase the coefficient useful action stove heating, due to which the heat is evenly distributed throughout the entire area of the house.

It should be noted that a furnace equipped with a water boiler will be more efficient compared to solid fuel boiler, because it can heat rooms in the house faster.

The design and placement of stoves in the house directly depends on their type and type.

Today there are following classifications ovens:
by purpose - divided into, heating and cooking and furnace devices with shield;

by type of fuel used - wood, gas, combined fuel and coal;

in shape - square, round, rectangular, L- or T-shaped, triangular and others;

by type of chimney - vertical, horizontal, sequential and combined stoves;

according to the period of fuel combustion - prolonged, long and short-term combustion.

After determining the type of furnace, you can begin placing the heating structure. A location near an interior wall will affect the air flow from the windows to the exit, which will cause cold air to move near the floor surface.

When installing the stove near the outer wall, air flows are normalized, but the room is significantly darkened. The best heat transfer will be when the stove is placed in the middle of the room, which in turn does not look entirely aesthetically pleasing.
Most rational option will put a heating stove in the house on the border of the living room and kitchen.

Work process tools

You will need:

trowel;

construction hammer;

bucket;

roulette;

level;

putty knife.

In addition, there are other tools that may be needed when installing a particular structure.

Stages of work on the device

To install a heating stove in a house, you need to complete the following steps.

Foundation structure

Room heating stoves weighing up to 750 kg are usually installed directly on a durable floor covering. If the floor strength is insufficient, they are reinforced with additional beams, strengthened with brick columns.

Indoor stoves weighing more than 750 kg must be placed on specialized foundations, which must rest on solid foundation soil.

These types of durable soils usually include rocky soils, which are solid rocks of limestone, sandstone or granite. The main property of such soils is a high level of resistance to resistance. groundwater and frost.

Macroporous soils that contain clay and have a coarse-porous structure are considered unsuitable substrates for placing stoves in a house. These soils lose their strength when exposed to moisture.

The lower level of the foundation area that will rest on the ground is called the base of the foundation. It is usually buried in the ground by 0.5-0.6 m (for single-story stoves), 0.75 m (for stoves with mounted pipes) and 1 m (for two-story stoves).

The building materials for making the foundation of the furnaces are various types of rubble stone, ordinary brick ( the best option there will be iron ore) and concrete.

When the soil is dry, the foundation is laid using bricks and limestone mortar, and when the soil is wet, cement mortar is used.

Brickwork is done in horizontal rows with mandatory bandaging of the seams. Massive stones are placed on the bottom layer, and smaller ones are placed in the upper rows. The empty spaces between the stones are densely filled with crushed stone. The foundation masonry should not be connected with the masonry of the house wall.

Furnace laying and exterior finishing

For getting high strength masonry, it is necessary to bind the bricks together. In addition, bandaging brick seams helps maintain gas density in the kiln.

Laying the firebox and chimney (the most important parts of the stove) should be done only using hands to be able to feel for excess impurities and objects in the solution (stones or lumps) that must be removed. Laying with a trowel is allowed in places with greater thickness (the base of the stove).

Basic work rules

In order to correctly fold the first rows in the furnace masonry, it is necessary to observe the parallelism rule, which is checked using a square and string by measuring the opposite distances between the main corners. The masonry is considered to have the correct shape if these distances are equal to each other.

The chimney and firebox are laid out with preliminary selection and layout of each row dry. The only exceptions can be solid brick rows without a chimney (from the base of the foundation to the bottom of the smoke channels).

The firebox is made of refractory bricks using. When burning a stove with wood, the firebox is made of ordinary brick. Interior The firebox is not tied up with the general masonry of the outer walls due to the difference in temperature of these surfaces when the furnace is fired.

Before laying, ordinary types of red brick are wetted and immersed in water for several minutes. The refractory brick is only rinsed with water to remove dust to improve the bond between the brick and the mortar.

When laying, the inner surface of the firebox is thoroughly wiped, and excess solution is removed. The thickness of the seams should be no more than 5 mm (for ordinary bricks) and 2-3 mm (for refractory bricks).

Installation and fastening of furnace appliances

Furnace appliances are installed in general design as the masonry progresses. The main stove appliances include:

combustion doors;

smoke dampers;

grates.

When installing these devices, the thermal expansion of metal and brickwork must be taken into account.

To do this, a gap of 5 mm is left between the devices and the main masonry.

The frame of the device is secured with special metal claws, which are fastened into the masonry and clamped with brick and mortar.

The firebox opening is blocked with brick into a lock or.

The grate is placed in a special hole on the floor of the firebox with 5 mm gaps and is located below the level of the firebox opening by 1-2 rows of bricks laid flat.

The blower door is installed without gaps.

Traction and pipe closing devices are fixed closer to the smoke riser in order to reduce the length of the chimney.

Chimney and chimneys

The chimney, according to its structure and location, is divided into root, wall and mounted.

The wall chimney looks like a vertical riser inside the capital brick walls. Such a chimney is located in the internal walls of the house. It is also possible to use a common chimney for two stoves on the same floor.

Root pipes (or chimney) are used in wooden buildings, where there are no wall channels.

Mounted structures (chimney) are installed directly on the stove on a reinforced concrete slab laid on the ceiling.

Deflectors and weather vanes made of steel and cast iron are used as windproof devices capable of controlling draft in systems (the chimney itself).

Finishing of external surfaces

As a rule, the outside of stoves is finished and lined with plaster, steel cases or tiles.

Plaster is the cheapest, but unreliable method, due to the fact that it is susceptible to cracking.

Various types of roofing and sheet steel are used for cladding with cases. However, quite often their surface is deformed, and subsequently dents form. Therefore, it is better to use corrugated steel for cladding.

The most aesthetic and hygienic finish for the stove surface is tile cladding. Tiles are capable of creating a reliable gas density of the structure. But at the same time, this is the most labor-intensive and quite expensive type of finishing.

Considering that there are different stoves, you should choose an option that suits both the home and the owners. However, for a good owner, after he has studied the features of the arrangement and laying of brick stove structures, such work will not present any difficulties.

It’s not difficult to build a brick stove that is always ready to warm any home. You just need to learn some of the intricacies of building brick stoves and use the knowledge gained correctly.

What kind of brick oven can you install in your home and where is the best place to do it?

Based on functionality, all stoves are usually divided into several types. Cookers have a special cast iron panel on which you can heat water and cook food. Such stoves are most often installed in dachas and small private houses where people do not live in winter. Basically, cooking stove can not heat large area, but its main task is not this, but cooking.

Heating units are intended exclusively for heating the home. They do not cook on them, since they do not have a cooking panel, which is why they usually have very compact sizes. Cooking and heating stoves are a combination of the first two types of brick stoves, which makes it possible to heat a large area and cook any food. Often such devices are equipped not only with a cast-iron panel, but also with a separate niche where you can dry fruits and vegetables, and a built-in oven.

Regardless of the type, any stove must be as fireproof as possible, not smoke during kindling and combustion, and also create comfortable living conditions in the house. To achieve this, you need to choose the right place in the home where you want to put the stove, guided by the following recommendations:

You cannot build a heating device near external wall residential building due to the fact that it will begin to cool down very quickly due to exposure to cold air from outside.
Place the stove in the middle of the room or next to the inner wall. It can also be built built into the wall. If the device is placed in the center of the room (this is done when the area of the home is large enough), it divides it into several functional parts - living room and kitchen, bedroom and dining room, and so on. For small buildings, a stove built into the wall or mounted directly under it is more suitable.
To simplify the masonry, it is advisable to find a correctly compiled ordering diagram for specific type ovens.
If the stove is built between two rooms, it must be separated from the wall surfaces with materials with a high heat resistance.

Note that large heating devices (the number of bricks is more than 500) and with their own chimney should be installed in the house on a separate foundation. Moreover, it should not have a (mechanical) connection with the foundation of the building (this requirement must also be observed when the house and stove are being built together).

Making a foundation and choosing a brick to build a stove

If the stove is relatively small sizes is being built in an already used house with tiled concrete foundation, it can be mounted directly on an existing base. You only need to lay roofing felt on the concrete floor.

When the flooring of a building is made of wood or the house is on a strip foundation, it will be necessary to prepare a separate foundation for the heating device.

You can do it yourself using this scheme:

We mark a place on the floor for the future brick stove.
We remove the marked part of the floor covering and dig a pit in the ground underneath it (its depth should be about half a meter).
At the bottom of the pit we place a layer of sand (about 10 cm) and on top - crushed stone (the thickness is the same), compact the resulting “pillow”.
We place a plank along the perimeter of the pit (it is raised about 11 cm above the level of the main floor covering).
We fill half of the hole under the stove foundation with a mixture of sand, crushed stone and cement, and wait for it to harden.
We fill the second half of the pit with a solution (after the previous composition in the pit has firmly set), which it is advisable to make more “thin” (add a little more water to it).

After this, it is necessary to carefully level the foundation using the rule and wait about a month until it hardens firmly. And at this time, you can choose and purchase bricks, remembering that the durability of the stove depends on its quality.

For masonry, fireproof, ceramic, fireclay and special oven bricks are used, as well as hand-molded products. All these materials should be selected according to their markings, which indicate their strength. A brick oven in a house should be constructed from special products of grades M150–M200, having:

uniform color;
straight edges with no chips or cracks;
geometrically correct shape;
dimensions 11.3x6.5 or 23x12.3 cm (it is advisable to buy bricks with exactly these parameters, since most ordering patterns are developed for them).

It is allowed to use fireclay bricks rather than stove bricks. But be prepared for the oven to come out fireclay material It will not only heat up quickly, but also cool down quickly. Externally, fireclay products are lined ceramic bricks. This is a must. This finish is also recommended for heating structures constructed from special kiln brick.

Masonry stove mortars - what should they be?

Before you build the stove with your own hands, you should understand the compositions that will ensure reliable fixation of the bricks and the entire structure. Typically, masonry mortars based on sand and clay are used (white kaolin or fireclay marl for ordinary bricks, gray Cambrian or ground refractory clay for ceramic).

The components of the composition for laying the stove must be selected very carefully. For example, if you feel that there is any odor (unpleasant or pleasant) coming from it, do not take it. The aroma indicates the presence of organic matter in the raw material. This clay is not suitable for laying a stove. You can take any sand, the main thing is that there are no foreign impurities in it.

The proportions in a solution of clay and sand are determined experimentally by conducting special tests according to the following scheme:

pour 1 kg of clay plain water and leave for 24 hours until the composition sours;
knead the clay until it becomes plasticine (adding water to the sour mixture);
divide the batch into 3–5 parts and add sand to different portions (from 10 to 100% by volume);
knead the solutions (as thoroughly as possible) and dry them for about 3.5 hours.

Then the samples must be carefully rolled out into 30–40 cm long “sausages” with a cross-section of about 1.5 cm and wrapped around a round piece of larger diameter. After this, wait for the compositions to dry (about half an hour). All that remains is to analyze the quality of the solutions.

If microscopic cracks have formed on the “sausage” or there are none at all, feel free to mix clay and sand in the proportions used for this test. With cracks no more than 2 mm deep, the solution can be used for laying those sections of the heating structure that do not warm up above 280–300 °C. If the “sausages” are covered with tears and deep cracks, this means that there is too much sand in the prepared mixture. It is prohibited to use it to construct a furnace.

An even simpler option is to purchase a ready-made mixture for furnace work at a hardware store. If you don’t want to bother with creating the “ideal” mortar yourself, just buy it and start building a brick oven.

It is important to strictly adhere to the order scheme you have chosen for specific model stove design, as well as decide on the type of masonry. Common methods of installing bricks are masonry with empty joints and undercuts. In the latter case, there is no need to plaster the finished stove - the solution is present in all seams. But when performing work with empty seams, plastering the constructed stove is a mandatory operation.

In order to avoid making fatal mistakes, beginners in the construction of home heating structures are recommended to pre-lay bricks without using a sand-clay mixture. It is done in order using 5 mm thick slats. They are placed between rows of bricks. In fact, the slats “replace” the mortar.

Once you have built the entire oven dry and are sure that everything was done correctly, begin to disassemble the structure. If possible, number all the bricks and stack them separately. Then the process of finishing masonry will go much faster for you.

vertical seams (all without exception) must be filled with mortar to avoid the possibility of delamination of the structure;
each brick in the masonry must rest on at least two others;
the smallest seam width is 2 mm;
you need to bandage all rows vertically;
the thickness of the mortar for masonry is taken to be about 5–7 mm; after pressing it with bricks, this value decreases by 2–3 mm (it is permissible to lightly tap the rows with a rubber hammer);
when using ceramic bricks, they are dipped in ordinary water for a couple of seconds, due to which they stick to the mortar without any problems; there is no need to “bathe” fireclay products;
Before laying, bricks should be cleaned from dust and crumbs with a hair brush (this operation is called mopping).

A few more important points. The bricks are placed in their designated place one at a time. If a stone falls “by”, it must be removed, the clay-sand mixture removed from it, and then placed again. The mortar that was removed from the bricks is not used in the future.

We carry out the laying of the furnace ourselves using clear and simple technology

The first row of the heating structure is laid out without the use of mortar. Then all the bricks included in it are carefully leveled and the locations of all the doors and other elements of the furnace are determined. After this, you need to establish the position of the corner stones and lay them on the solution.

We use a level to accurately align the horizontal position of the bricks, as well as a tape measure to check the diagonal and plan dimensions of the structure being built. Now you can lay the first row on the sand-clay mixture, starting work from the middle of the row.

The verticality of the entire contour of a brick stove during its construction is controlled by means of a simple device - plumb lines stretched on a string from the ceiling to the stove corners. The lines made in this way will become an excellent guide for masonry. Having completed the first row, we lay the second row according to a similar pattern:

put the stones in their place in the corners;
We check the verticality of the corners with a plumb line from the ceiling;
lay out the middle of the second row.

In the same way we lay the third and subsequent rows of brick. Do not forget to constantly check the stove construction plan (with the order). It is imperative to clean the outer and inner parts of the stones from excess mortar using a construction trowel.

Depending on the type of stove, choose the location of the firebox, blower, and ash pan. In a conventional heating device, the ash compartment is most often made after the third row of bricks, and the ash pan after the fifth.

When laying the stove, you should adhere to important principle ligation of the stones used, which involves covering with brick the next row of each seam located vertically. It is desirable that the vertical connection is located clearly in the center of the brick of the next row. In practice, such an “idyll” is rarely achieved. In this case, try to ensure that the seam shift is a maximum of a quarter of the stone.

Do not forget to mount a special sheet between the floor and the first row of masonry (it is called the pre-furnace). It will hide the small gap that is always present in this place. As you can see, it is not so difficult to lay out a brick oven with your own hands.

A do-it-yourself brick oven is the ideal heating equipment. It is also very convenient that you can cook food on it. Many of the stove models perfectly combine functionality and efficiency in installation and use. Thanks to the stove, the room is not only heated. It also helps regulate air humidity. This is facilitated by the porous structure of the brick: when heated, it gives off moisture, and when it cools, it takes it back.

Do-it-yourself stove laying: what you need to consider

A brick stove has always been considered a functional and economical option for heating a home. Brick - practical material, which has many positive qualities. The brick has a “breathable” structure, thanks to which the air in the room does not lose moisture. That is why stove heating is considered safe for health.

A brick stove can operate on any type of solid fuel: coal, wood, pellets, etc.

The efficiency of some stoves reaches 80 to 90 percent, which suggests that the stove can compete in efficiency with Buleryans. You can lay the stove yourself. The room must include a stove. Masonry can be done in different ways.

What to consider when self-masonry ovens:

The stove should be laid on an independent foundation if it consists of 500 bricks and has its own chimney. It is important that the foundation of the stove is not connected to the foundation of the house. It must be located at a certain distance.
A low stove, which has a large hob with a heating panel, can be installed without laying a foundation. It is only important to perform thermal insulation and strengthen the floor where the additional logs are located.
It is important to ensure that ceiling beams did not touch the chimney. The chimney should be located above the ridge of the roof.

To lay a standard stove you will need 1 or 1.5 thousand bricks. If the house is sectional strip foundation, then the furnace foundation is laid in a specially designated place, preferably under internal walls. Previously, stove installation was done in every home. Nowadays, it can rather be considered exotic.

DIY stove: types of designs

The brick oven is easy to use and functional. It acts as a device for heating the house, equipped with hobs, an oven and a stove bench. The design of the stove can be very diverse and original.

Usually brick kilns covered with tiles or tiles, turning it into a real work of art.

They lay the oven with their own hands, following the procedure instructions, which today can be easily found on the Internet. The order shows how and where to place each brick. Of course, it’s good if you have experience as a mason, since brick laying must be done according to a special pattern. Before starting installation, it is important to correctly calculate the number of bricks and decide on the design of the stove. To do this, it is very important to take into account the characteristics of a particular room.

Types of furnace designs:

Russian. It can have a wide variety of sizes and is famous for its high efficiency.
Hollandaise and tetanus. The design of the furnace is such that the movement of gases through it contributes to achieving an efficiency of 90 to 95 percent. There is almost no soot in the oven, which reduces cleaning to a minimum.
Swede. A type of heating and cooking stove. It is used for cooking and heating the room. It is also fashionable to build an oven into it.

Each of the furnaces has its own characteristics, which should be taken into account when choosing the type of design. In order to correctly calculate the amount of material for laying the furnace, you need to decide on the layout of the future structure. Typically, several types of bricks are used to lay the stove: ceramic and refractory.

How to build a brick oven with your own hands

To properly lay the Swedish masonry, you must first download the design drawings on the Internet. The most important is the laying of the first row. It is important to ensure that the bricks are laid evenly: for this it is tedious to use a level. The corners of the masonry are controlled using a construction square.

It is important to understand that it is the first row of bricks that affects correct styling the remaining rows.

The first part of the furnace is equipped with a blower, for laying which three-quarter bricks are used. The installation of the second row begins with the installation of the blower doors. The third row is laid out following the order.

Step-by-step instruction:

In the fourth row they are installing a door for cleaning. To make the ash pit square, the bricks are chopped based on the size of the hole. The fifth row is done the same way, but the ash pan opening has a narrowed design.
To lay the sixth row, refractory bricks are used. Before laying near the grate, the bricks are chipped. They do this for ease of fuel loading. It is important that the lattice rests on the back row of bricks. We should not forget about the additional distance between the sixth row of masonry and the grate: this void will serve to collect ash and sand.
In the seventh row, the furnace door is installed. The eighth and ninth rows are laid out similarly, but the bricks of the latter must be cut off on both sides: this will allow gases to flow smoothly from the combustion chamber into the channel.

To lay the tenth row, refractory bricks are used. The laying of bricks must be strictly regulated, since it must lie strictly vertically. To do this you need to use building level. In this row, the furnace door is laid from the top. To lay the eleventh row, ceramic bricks are used. In this row, a hob is laid, which covers the firebox. In the same row, a large door for the cooking chamber is installed. The instructions are continued in the next section.

Step-by-step instructions: how to fold a stove with your own hands

In the twelfth row, the channels are combined so that they correspond rectangular shape. In the fourteenth row they are installing a damper, which helps battery life hob, and the oven does not heat up completely. Thanks to the damper, the stove can be used for cooking in summer.

The fifteenth row is used to cover the damper, and the sixteenth row covers the doors of the cooking chamber.

A ventilation door is placed between the chamber and the left chamber at the front: it helps remove steam and odors during cooking. The seventeenth row covers the ventilation door. And above the cooking chamber, a pair of steel rods are inserted into the masonry, which are used to lay the next floor.

Subsequent rows:

The eighteenth and nineteenth rows cover the cooking chamber. The plan is equipped with only two left channels.
In the twentieth row, the bricks are laid “on edge” where the cooking chamber overlaps. The back wall is located at a distance of 4 cm from the bricks.
The twenty-second row covers all doors and is equipped with two square channels.
In the twenty-third row, two long channels are overlapped, laying bricks “on edge”. The twenty-fourth row is laid in a similar way.
Laying the twenty-fifth and sixth rows is similar to laying the twenty-second row.

Particular care should be taken when laying the twenty-ninth row. It is equipped with only one channel. Two bricks are laid on the front wall. They are recessed halfway and supported on bricks laid on edge. The remaining rows are laid according to the diagram.

Installing a stove with good heat transfer yourself is not that difficult. The device can be installed in both a wooden and brick house. It is possible to lay out the stove correctly only if the design diagram is chosen correctly and meets the characteristics of the room.

The construction of a long-burning stove should be carried out following special instructions that can be found on the Internet.

Stone home stoves are distinguished by high efficiency and functionality if their structure is carried out according to all the rules, therefore, when self-installation you need to listen to the advice of the stove maker. It is important to do everything efficiently, then the rough will last long years. If the stove has been in use for many years, and it begins to malfunction, the structure can be moved rather than rebuilt.

Tips for laying the stove:

If we are building a stove in a house, it is important that a separate foundation is made for it.
The construction of the furnace must be thought out in advance. It is very important to take into account the characteristics of the room and decide in advance on the location of the stove.
Rules and some secrets of installing a stove from professional craftsmen can be found on the Internet.

A coal stove can be placed in a house of any size, the main thing is to correctly calculate its dimensions. It is better to prepare heating projects before the construction of the house is completed. To create in the house warm atmosphere, we put in flood water. This is what can be added to a Russian or Ukrainian stove. A stove is used to decorate the stove and firebox.

How to fold a stove with your own hands: step-by-step instructions (video)

Installing a stove is not difficult if you strictly follow the instructions. It is important to carefully consider the installation of the firebox and other important components of the stove. You can assemble a stove from 750 or 1100 bricks. Their number depends on the size of the room. To style a Dutch oven you can use crushed brick. One of the most common schemes for laying a stove is the “well” scheme.

Heating country houses complicated by the lack of gas mains and stable electricity. However, this problem can be solved if you know how to fold the stove correctly.

What types of stoves are there?

Before you properly install a stove in your home, you need to determine its functions.

There are three types of similar structures for a private home:

For heating. The structure includes a firebox and a large chimney with many branches. The resulting flue gases give off their heat to the surrounding space through the walls of the chimney. Similar stoves, which are heated mainly in winter time, are usually equipped in houses with electric or gas stoves.
For cooking. This appliance is intended exclusively for cooking. It is distinguished by the presence of a short straight chimney that immediately goes out onto the roof. A cast iron stove is mounted on top of the firebox for cooking. In the space between the firebox and the chimney there is room for oven(it provides a cooking mode, like in a Russian stove). They are usually equipped in this way summer kitchens and private houses with centralized and gas heating.
Heating and cooking. With the help of such a stove you can simultaneously cook food and heat your home. Its design consists of a hob, an oven and a massive chimney with a developed heat exchange system. The heating and cooking variety is most widespread. With its help they are equipped as private residential cottages, and small country houses.

How to choose a place

Before making a stove, you need to choose a place for it. In order for the stove to be effective, convenient and safe, it must be positioned as correctly as possible inside the home. Drawings on how to build a stove with your own hands are freely available on numerous resources.

Exists certain rules regulating the placement of furnaces:

Optimal location for installation heating stove is central part home or the largest room. This will make heat exchange as efficient as possible, because the heated air will spread evenly throughout the house. Due to the massiveness of the building, a natural zoning of the room into separate local areas is carried out. The construction of a heating furnace near one of the external walls will significantly reduce the heating efficiency: part of the heat will be wasted outside.
The cooking stove is usually built outdoors under a canopy, or in the kitchen, close to the outer wall. Thanks to this arrangement, even in the summer, the room will not be very hot, because the heat will partially go outside. For the same reason, it is advisable to install a chimney in the corner of the kitchen, between two external walls.
The heating and cooking stove has a specific location. The part where the hob and oven are located is installed in the kitchen area. The chimney is made slightly offset inside the interior partitions between the kitchen and other rooms. Such instructions on how to properly fold a stove with your own hands ensure simultaneous cooking and heating of the house.

When the stove is located close to a wall or interior partition, its body must be additionally insulated with heat-resistant non-flammable material. This can be done using asbestos sheets or rigid mineral wool slabs.

Necessary materials

Before you build a stove for your home yourself, you need to prepare the necessary materials and tools for this.

The following materials will be required:

Construction bricks. They are needed in two varieties - fired solid and fireclay fireproof. The raw material for the first variety, intended for the construction of the outer part of the body and the chimney, is red clay. The firebox and chimney duct are lined inside fireclay bricks: he has more light shade and can withstand heating up to +1200 degrees.
Concrete mortar for the foundation. It is prepared independently from cement (grade M400 or M500), sifted sand (quarry or river), crushed granite(fraction size 25-35 mm) and cold clean water. The foundation cushion is covered with granite rubble stones measuring 150-250 mm.
Clay-sand mortar for masonry. It consists of red clay without impurities, sifted sand (river or quarry) and clean water. Clay can be dug up in a nearby ravine or purchased in powder form at a hardware store.
Metal stove elements. We are talking about a cast iron grate, metal cleaning doors, cast iron ash doors, cast iron firebox doors, a chimney damper, a steel reinforcing mesh for the foundation, a cast iron hob with round burners.
Mineral wool in slabs with a thickness of 20-50 mm.
Asbestos sheets (8-10 mm).
Asbestos cord (3-10 mm).
Reinforcing bars made of steel (8-12 mm).
Ruberoid (it can be replaced construction film made of polyethylene).

Use for the construction of white silicate or calcined furnaces hollow bricks forbidden. This also applies to decorative facing elements, since it will not be possible to correctly build a stove made of this type of brick.

Tools and equipment

List of required tools:

A pair of eraser or metal buckets with a volume of 8-10 liters.
Grinder with diamond cutting disc.
Construction trowel or trowel.
Level.
Mallet made of plastic or rubber.
Roulette.
Pickaxe, furnace hammer.

Joining devices for finishing masonry joints.
The rule is 1 meter long.
Square made of metal or wood.
Construction plumb.
Wide container made of plastic or metal with a volume of 40 liters or more.
A drill or hammer drill of sufficient power.
Mixing attachment for preparing a solution.
Shovel;
Large metal sieve for sifting sand.

Construction of the furnace foundation

Before you build the stove yourself in the country, you will need to first lay the foundation. It is installed separately on the ground, without connecting it to the main foundation of the house.

We lay the base of the oven with our own hands step by step in the following sequence of operations:

Preparation of concrete mortar grade M200. 3.5 buckets of sand and one bucket of cement are mixed in a mortar vessel. After diluting the dry mixture with water, thoroughly knead until a slightly fluid homogeneous mass is formed. Crushed stone in the amount of 5-6 buckets is poured into the resulting slurry, after which it is brought to the state of a homogeneous thick solution. To make the concrete more flexible, you can add a little liquid soap or dishwashing liquid to it.
Digging a pit. For the foundation, you need to dig a pit 45-60 cm deep. Its dimensions on each side should be larger than the dimensions of the furnace. The bottom of the trench is compacted, and the side walls are reinforced with board or plywood formwork. Next, a sand cushion 10-15 cm high is poured, and rubble stone is placed on top of it in a layer of 15-25 cm. Sometimes the walls are reinforced not with formwork, but with pieces of roofing felt.
Pouring the solution. A reinforcing strapping is installed at the bottom of the trench, for which they use reinforcing strapping made from welded reinforcing bars or steel pipes. Concrete is poured in several portions. To achieve good density, the solution is pierced to the bottom wooden slats or a piece of reinforcement: this allows the air accumulated inside to escape out. Top part the base is strengthened with a steel reinforcing mesh. A finishing layer of concrete 2-4 cm thick is placed on top of it.
Leveling and hardening the foundation. A rule is used to level the poured concrete solution. It is necessary to achieve strict horizontality of the upper surface of the base: it should be inferior to the level of the finished floor by 8-12 cm. After this, the foundation is covered with a polyethylene film, leaving in this position for about 7 days, until the solution has completely hardened.

In houses with already laid floor covering It is temporarily dismantled before assembling the stove with your own hands. Another option is to cut an opening to the size of the structure being constructed, leaving a margin of 20 cm on each side.

Brick laying - step by step instructions

The procedure for how to assemble a simple stove with a stove of any type consists of two stages:

Dry masonry. At this stage, the bricks are laid out without using mortar. This approach allows you to better understand how to move the stove, understand the design of its smoke channels, and detect possible problem areas. When carrying out dry masonry, gaps of the same size are left between the bricks: inside them there will be a masonry mixture. For these purposes, you can use plywood or wooden spacers 5 mm thick. Dry laying is carried out to the point where the chimney begins. Next, each of the rows needs to be numbered and dismantled.
Main masonry. If the first stage did not cause any difficulties, proceed to the main procedure, how to build a small stove with your own hands. To implement this you will need a clay solution. The reference point here is the order scheme and numbered brick rows.

The following is proposed step-by-step instruction DIY ovens:

Preparation of masonry mixture. Dry clay powder must be soaked in water for a day. After this, the soaked material is mixed with in small portions sand: it is more convenient to knead the solution manually until lumps and compactions completely disappear. The volume of sand added directly depends on the fat content of the clay, and can reach 100% of the total mass of the mixture. Sign good quality clay mortar is its sliding off the shovel, without sticking to its surface. Factory-prepared dry clay powders do not require pre-soaking.
Laying the lower rows. Its effectiveness depends on how you lay a brick oven. The upper surface of the base must be waterproofed. Suitable for these purposes bitumen mastic or a couple of layers of roofing felt. The outline of the base of the future structure is marked on top of the roofing material. The first two rows of bricks are laid completely on top of the roofing felt. The second row is mounted in such a way that its joints do not coincide with the joints of the first.
Arrangement of blower and cleaning channels. Using the third and fourth rows of bricks, a niche is laid out for the ash pan and the cleaning cavities of the chimney.
Door installation. To secure cast iron doors in brickwork they must be equipped with holes in the corner area of the frames. A soft steel wire of such a size is inserted into the holes made so that a piece 30-40 cm long peeks out from each edge. To seal, an asbestos cord must be fixed to each frame. Having installed the doors in the desired position, pieces of wire are placed in the joint solution of the upper and lower brick row.

How to properly fold a firebox yourself

The outer part of the furnace body may be constructed from ordinary red brick. The firebox and smoke duct are made exclusively of fireclay material.

Construction of the firebox base

Before making a firebox for the stove, it is necessary to build a foundation for it: for this, the fourth row of bricks is used. The lower fireclay elements are equipped with a quarter-brick sample for laying the grate. Its function is to separate the firebox and the blower. The fifth row serves as a support for the side walls of the firebox and the separators of the vertical air ducts.

Firebox

The laying of the sixth, seventh and eighth rows is done in the same way. The fire door is built into the side wall on top of the blower, starting from the sixth row. It is secured and installed in the same way as the main one. To avoid the appearance of backdraft caused by turbulent eddies flue gases, the tops of the brick row in the jumper between the firebox and the smoke well are made slightly rounded.

Top of the firebox

After the firebox in the stove is folded, another row of bricks is laid on top of the firebox door. Inside the firebox around the perimeter, a quarter 12-15 mm deep is selected for laying the asbestos cord. A liquid clay solution is used to impregnate it. A cast-iron hob is mounted on top of the cord: you need to ensure that its upper surface is flush with the upper brick row.

Top and side walls

The temperature of the furnace gases at the top of the chimney channels is much lower than inside the firebox: this allows further construction to be carried out using ordinary red brick.

DIY hob

A continuation of the vertical smoke cavities is laid out on top of the cooking surface. The same applies to the side walls of the stove, the purpose of which is not only external decoration, but also to improve the strength characteristics of the structure. This part is raised in height by no more than 6-7 rows.

Visor

The cooking part is equipped with a protective canopy that protects the surrounding space of the house from splashing grease and clouds of steam. It is placed at a height of 40-45 cm above the surface of the slab. Reinforcement of overhanging rows is carried out with a 32x32 mm steel angle installed in the lower part.

Smoke channels

The top of the chimneys above the canopy is laid out at a height of 9 brick rows. In this case, the upper part of the partition (3 rows), from the first to the second channel, is not fully closed. Flue gases will subsequently circulate inside this niche. The third smoke channel between the last and penultimate brick row is decorated with a gate valve.

Upper part of the oven

The topmost row on top of the first and second smoke channels should be continuous. The cavity of the third channel is left open, since the chimney pipe going to the roof will be connected to it. The chimney is equipped with a cap on top, which will require 1-2 rows of bricks.

Exterior design

After a simple oven is folded with your own hands, it is carried out external design. If the masonry is done carefully, additional finishing usually not carried out. To do this, it is important to embroider brick seams efficiently and beautifully, for which they are used special tools. In some cases, plaster may be used stove walls, if the interior of the room requires it. For these purposes, the same material is used as for laying bricks (it is recommended to give preference to industrially prepared clay mixtures).

Russian stoves are multifunctional and convenient designs, that are excellent option for heating and creating atmosphere home comfort V modern home. Quite a few country houses are now equipped with this colorful and original heating device, and some developers even decide to build it themselves. It’s not difficult to fold the stove, just like, you just need the desire, skillful hands, knowledge of the principles of masonry and the correct choice of materials.

Choosing a location for the oven

Structurally, the correct choice of location for the stove requires compliance with the following conditions:

Distance between wooden structures And smoke channel must be at least 37 cm
To obtain good draft in the stove, the chimney must be positioned maintaining a minimum distance from the ridge - 1.5 meters and minimum height above it - 0.5 meters
If the pipe is located 1.5-3 meters from the ridge, then it can be brought flush with it
If this distance exceeds 3 meters, then the pipe may be lower, but there should be an angle of no more than 10° between the slope and the line connecting the top of the pipe and the slope

The foundation of the furnace cannot be combined with the foundation of the building, since each of them has specific conditions of natural settlement.

The roof of the gazebo with barbecue must be as fireproof as possible. We spent comparative analysis ondulin and metal tiles. Drawing a conclusion from this article, metal tiles are suitable for a gazebo with a barbecue.

Installation of furnace equipment

Furnace appliances are installed during the laying process. Metal and brick have different coefficients of linear expansion, so the openings under metal parts should be somewhat larger than the elements themselves. It is very important that the furnace devices exactly match the dimensions specified in the specification. Failure to comply with them will make changes to the orders, and without the appropriate experience it will be very difficult to eliminate the “error” in the following rows.

There should be gaps of about 5 mm on the sides of the cast iron plate. They are sealed with a solution of clay with asbestos chips. The fire door must be secured with soft steel wire, for which four holes are provided in the frame. The pieces of wire are folded in half, twisted and the ends are inserted into the seams of the masonry. A small gap is left between the frame and the bricks, which is filled with the same asbestos solution.

The blower and cleaning doors are attached in the same way (but the blower door is installed tightly). Gaps of 5 mm are left around the grate so that it can be removed freely.

Chimney laying

The chimney is laid out in almost the same way as the stove. Special attention you only need to pay attention to the place of passage attic floor. Here it is mandatory to maintain the fire distance: there must be at least 0.38 m between the inner wall of the pipe and wooden structures. When laying the outer wall of the pipe, it is gradually expanded, while the cross-section of the internal channel remains unchanged, which is achieved by overlapping the masonry by a quarter of the brick in the new row.

In order for the construction of any unfamiliar structure to be carried out successfully, the appropriate instructions must be followed. For laying stoves, orders are used as such instructions - images and descriptions of the orderly arrangement of bricks and metal elements in the body of the structure. By following their recommendations and observing the principles of masonry using the “correct” materials, it is quite possible to independently build a stove of any kind.

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