Recommendations for installing a steel bathtub with your own hands: step-by-step instructions. How to install a bathtub with your own hands: the sequence and subtleties of the work Installing a bathtub

The question of how to install a bathtub with your own hands is not as difficult to solve as it might seem at first glance. It's all about having information that many craftsmen hide - ignorance of the intricacies is precisely the stumbling block that makes most people refuse to install this plumbing fixture themselves and turn to the help of professionals. In this article, together with the website, we will talk about correct sequence installing a bathtub and the subtleties that are inherent in installing a bathtub depending on the material from which it is made.

DIY bathtub installation photo

How to install a bathtub with your own hands: sequence of work

To understand general principle installation for all types of bathtubs, first we will consider the sequence of work, which remains unchanged both with cast iron and even acrylic ones. We will leave the subtleties of the work relating to each individual type of bathtub for last.

1. Assembly and installation of the drain siphon. I won’t go into the intricacies of installing a bathtub siphon, I’ll just say one thing - as a rule, all products of this type are assembled using union nuts using rubber seals. There is no need to perform any additional sealing of the joints - this will at least lead to damage to the product. The siphon assembly diagram is usually supplied by the manufacturers of these products.
2. Installation of supports on the bathtub. Here, too, not everything is clear - there are quite a lot of designs for supporting elements. There are both complex and simple ones - some craftsmen completely abandon factory legs and give preference to the so-called ones. In some respects they are right - for example, it is better to install steel bathtubs this way. We'll talk a little further about how to install a bathtub on bricks.

   

   How to install a bathtub with your own hands photo

3. Insulation and soundproofing of the bathtub. This step of the work applies only to steel and acrylic bathtubs - cast iron products are already quite warm and do not produce excessive noise during the process of filling them. Sound and heat insulation of the bathtub is carried out using polyurethane foam, which is applied to the bottom and sides of such products. Depending on the size of the bathtub, you may need from 4 to 5 large cylinders of polyurethane foam.
4. Positioning the bath relative to the horizon. The bathtub, prepared and installed in the required place, must be aligned relative to the horizon level. There is no need to lay down any slopes during its installation - this nuance is taken into account by the manufacturer and incorporated into the design of the bathtub. Positioning of the bath is carried out using, the device of which provides for these purposes adjusting screws. By unscrewing and tightening them, you can easily achieve the desired position of the bath. First, the long side of the bathtub is installed relative to the horizon level, and then the short one. The progress of this process is controlled by a rack level.

   

   Installation steel bath do it yourself photo

5. Bathtub fixing. This nuance applies exclusively to steel or acrylic bathtub- such a step does not provide for, since its weight is quite enough not to sag or move under the weight of water and a person. Leveled acrylic and steel bathtubs are attached to the walls using metal hooks, which are often used to install water heating tanks or special brackets supplied by the manufacturer with the bathtub. Such fastening is necessary in order to prevent depressurization of the connection between the wall and the bathtub itself during operation.
6. Sealing. This is the final stage of solving the question of how to install a bathtub correctly? It can be solved in several ways. In one situation, it would be advisable to use a special white corner, in another - self-adhesive border tape, and in still others it can even be used tile. In some situations, when there is practically no gap between the wall and the bathtub (this happens when the bathtub is installed before), one bottle of white sanitary silicone will be enough to seal it.

   

   How to install a bathtub to the wall photo

This is what the solution to the question of how to install a bathtub against a wall looks like? All that remains is to study the subtleties regarding the installation of the bathtub depending on the material from which it is made. That's what we'll do next.

Subtleties of installing a steel bathtub: two important points

In addition to the above, you can add only two points - the height of the installation of the bathroom and the manufacture of a brick pillow. Let's start in order.

You can watch the nuances of installing a steel bathtub in the video below.

Features of installing an acrylic bathtub: four decisive factors

This plumbing product has a little more installation subtleties. In general, acrylic is a rather capricious material. When deciding how to properly install an acrylic bathtub, you need to take into account the following nuances.

The nuances of installing a cast iron bathtub: what you need to know during installation

There are practically no nuances to installing this product. Or rather, they exist, but they are all described above. This bathtub does not need to be secured to the walls. All that is necessary is to put it in place, move it as close as possible to the wall and adjust it to the level. Adjustment is carried out by using steel pads under the legs. And in general cast iron bathtubs in modern renovation They are used extremely rarely - they are expensive and do not differ in the variety of forms. The only obstacle to installing a cast iron bathtub is its significant weight. If you are going to install such a bathtub, then enlist the help of an assistant.

Well, in conclusion to the question of how to install a bathtub with your own hands, I want to say a few words about corner structures. There is no need to be afraid of them - they are installed almost exactly the same way as ordinary rectangular bathtubs. The only exception is their shape and, as a result, the technology of fastening to the walls. Corner baths are attached to the walls in three places - two points on the long side and one on the short side.

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Four ways to secure a bathtub yourself

Hello, dear readers! In this article I will talk about how to secure a bathtub. Despite the fact that modern plumbing is quite easy to install, blog subscribers often ask questions about installing bathtubs. Therefore, I propose to consider how ubiquitous plumbing fixtures made of metal and acrylic are attached using the example of work already completed.

Current fastening methods

Depending on the location of the bathtub, it varies the following types settings:

• fastening on the floor, when plumbing fixtures are installed separately at a certain distance from the walls;
• fastening to the floor and to the walls is the most common option when installing corner plumbing fixtures or when installing a bowl in a niche.

Depending on the type of fastening elements used, the following differs:

• installation on brickwork– a universal solution that is often used for reliable and stable installation of metal baths;
• installation on unregulated or adjustable legs— relevant for steel and cast iron bathtubs, which are equipped with such supports;
• installation on metal structures and adjustable supports is the most common option for attaching acrylic plumbing fixtures.

Method one - installing a steel bathtub on a brick

I suggest you look at the photo report on the installation of a KaldeweiSaniformPlus steel bathtub with dimensions of 1.7 by 0.75 m. The installed product has a standard configuration, but due to its thick walls it is heavy. The considerable weight significantly complicated installation and placed additional demands on the strength and stability of the fasteners.

According to the instructions, the product is installed on special legs, which greatly simplifies installation. But, in order to save money, it was decided to install it on brickwork. As it turned out later, brickwork provided better rigidity than using standard legs.

Don't know how to fix a steel bathtub so it doesn't wobble? Read on to find out how to do this.

Installation technology

So, let's start arranging the bathroom:

• We unpack the bathtub and compare its dimensions with the dimensions of the seat;

Attention! To successfully install a bathtub in a niche, the distance between the sides of the bowl and the wall on each side must be at least 2.5 cm. This requirement does not apply to installation.

• We install the bowl on spacer bars, which we place close to the underside of the sides;

• We check the position of the bowl relative to the horizon with a spirit level and, if necessary, level it by changing the angle of installation of the spacers;

• We lay out the brickwork under those parts of the bathtub where legs were originally supposed to be present;

• We bring the last row of masonry close to the wall of the bowl, using pieces of brick for this;
• After the masonry has dried, remove the spacers and check the stability using your weight;

• We lay out a brick screen around the perimeter of the bathtub right up to the edge.

In this case, the screen performs not only a decorative function, but, among other things, serves as an element that provides additional rigidity to the entire structure. The adjoining of the masonry to the lower part of the side along the perimeter allows you to avoid skewing of the bowl even if the lower supports are not strong enough.

So, we learned how to strengthen a steel bathtub so that it does not wobble. But once again I draw your attention to the fact that this method is relevant for metal and it is not recommended to do such masonry under an acrylic bowl.

Method two - attach to the wall and floor

So, we have looked at how to mount metal plumbing fixtures on brickwork, now I propose to find out how to mount a bathtub to a wall.

In the photo you can see the same KaldeweiSaniformPlus bathtub with dimensions of 1.7 by 0.75 m, but this time the installation is not carried out on brickwork, but on a standard supporting structure.

In this particular case, we noticed late that the pin of the support legs was smaller than we had originally expected. That is, it was planned to install the sides at a height of 59 cm, and the bathtub, together with the legs fully turned out, has a height of 56 cm.

The problem was solved by cutting pieces of tiles, which were subsequently glued at the location of the legs.

We seal the fasteners to the wall with silicone

A strip of silicone sealant was applied on top of the profile, departing 1-2 mm from it.

You can install plumbing fixtures on pieces of tile glued to silicone no sooner than a day after the silicone has completely polymerized.

So, now you know how to attach metal plumbing fixtures to the wall and floor. All that remains is to find out how to fix the acrylic plumbing fixtures that are popular today?

Method three - installing an acrylic corner bathtub on standard supports

How to strengthen a bathtub so that it does not wobble if it is made of acrylic?

Let's take a closer look at the steps listed in the instructions:

• We remove the acrylic bowl from its packaging with our own hands;

• We spread a blanket on the bathroom floor and turn the bowl over it (this is a precaution against scratches)
• We take the dimensions from the sides of the bowl and compare them with the dimensions of the seat;

In order for the corner bath to be installed quickly and efficiently, make sure that the two walls form seat converge at right angles. Absence right angle indicates that there will be a gap between the side and one of the walls, which is very difficult to cover.

• We unpack the components from which the frame will be made;
• We lay out all the components separately to make them easier to assemble;

• We insert plugs into the ends of the legs and snap them into place;

• We screw the studs into the adjusting legs (there are threads inside the legs);
• We screw two locknuts onto the stud;
• We assemble the profile from which the frame will be made;

• We screw the adjusting leg pin into the hole on the insert in the profile;
• We screw one locknut tightly to the profile, and the second to the leg so that the structure is strong and stable;

• We install the prepared profiles on the bowl and fasten them with self-tapping screws, which are included in the kit;
• To assemble another profile, prepare one short and one longer pin;
• We screw in the short pin and use locknuts in the same way as the other legs;

• We screw in a long pin on the side of the profile that will be located on the side of the protrusion of the side of the bathtub;

• We install plastic legs on a screwed-in long pin on both sides, that is, one leg will rest against the acrylic side, and the other will rest against the floor;

• We secure the legs installed on both sides with nuts;

After the support legs are installed on the profile, their plugs should be located at the same level. Check location extreme points support legs can be used with a ruler, measuring the distance from the surface of the profile to the surface of the plug.

• We turn the assembled structure over and install it on the seat;
• We check the position of the bowl with a level, applying it to the sides;
• If necessary, scan the nuts on the supports, align the legs and tighten the locknuts again.

Method four - reinforced fastening of acrylic bathtubs

So, we have just learned how to install an acrylic bathtub on supporting legs. But as long-term operation shows, this method has significant drawback. In the area between the reinforced profiles, the bowl crunches under the weight of a person.

Of course, this drawback is not critical, but it is better to eliminate it. For these purposes, standard foam concrete blocks with a length of 625 mm and a thickness of 250 mm are selected.

To make installation of the bathtub on blocks with standard sizes possible, when assembling the mounting frame, we space the profiles at a distance of at least 65 cm.

The blocks are installed under the bowl on polyurethane foam. After the foam has completely hardened, the bath will stop crunching and become motionless. The cost of this method is minimal, since you only have to purchase a few bricks and a bottle of foam.

Let's take a closer look at the instructions for strengthening fasteners:

• Using the adjusting supports, raise the bowl to its maximum height;
• Under the bowl along the perimeter along which the bricks will be laid, we blow strips of polyurethane foam;
• We lay blocks on the foam, on the surface of which we first apply a strip of foam;
• Using adjustable supports, lower the bowl onto the foam and lock the supports with nuts.
• Within a day, the plumbing fixtures can be used for their intended purpose.

To make the foam stick better to the blocks and to the floor screed, mounting surfaces need to be moistened with water from a spray bottle.

Conclusion

In this article, I talked about how to fix a bathtub to the wall and floor. I hope that now you will not have problems with arranging the bathroom. However, if you have any questions about the installation, I will be happy to give them a comprehensive answer.

September 5, 2016

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Comfortable living in the house is out of the question. This room is the “face” of every person. Its appearance speaks of the wealth of the family, the style of the owner and his neatness. Everyone knows that the central place in the bathroom is the bathtub, which is directly used for hygiene procedures.

It is important not only to choose correctly, but also to install the container. Therefore, you need to know how to fix the bathtub correctly when carrying out renovation work in the room. Of course, you can use the services of specialists, but it is quite possible to install the tank yourself.

So, let's look at how modern plumbing fixtures made of different materials.

Current bath installation methods

The method of installing a bathtub directly depends on its location. So how do you secure a bathtub?

1. Fastening to walls and floors. One of the most common installation methods is angular location plumbers. Often also used when installing a bowl in a prepared niche.
2. Fastening to the floor. In this case, the container is installed at a distance from the walls.

Depending on the type of fasteners used, there are the following methods for mounting the container:

• With adjustable or non-adjustable legs. Perfect option for fastening cast iron or steel baths, which are often supplied with such supports.
• On brickwork. A universal solution for metal bathtubs, which guarantees the stability and reliability of the structure as a whole.
• On adjustable supports or metal structures. This option is often used for installing acrylic plumbing fixtures.

Let's take a closer look at the most popular ways to properly secure a bathtub.

Features of installing a steel bath

A steel bathtub is an acceptable option for many apartments and houses. Plumbing stores offer a wide range of choices of these products. The choice of capacity parameters directly depends on the area and the wishes of the owners. The standard configuration includes bathtubs measuring 0.75 m by 1.7 m.

When choosing such plumbing equipment, remember that it is characterized by heavy weight. It significantly complicates installation and places special demands on the stability and strength of fasteners.

The product instructions indicate that such a container must be installed on special legs. Having these supports makes installation much easier. It is necessary to properly secure the supports, which often come with plumbing fixtures. The bath is ready for installation.

But often such containers are installed on brickwork. How to fix the bathtub in this case?

Features of installing a steel bathtub on brickwork

The masonry provides good rigidity compared to using standard legs.

• So, the arrangement of the bathroom begins with unpacking the container itself. We compare its parameters with the dimensions of the seat.
• Remember, in order to install the container correctly, quickly and efficiently, it is necessary that the distance between the wall and the sides of the bowl be at least 2.5 cm. This requirement does not apply to installation corner baths.
• We install the bowl on previously prepared spacer bars. They should be located close to the wrong side of the sides.
• We connect the siphon correctly.
• Using a spirit level (level), we check the location of the bowl relative to the horizon. If necessary, level the container by changing the angle of the spacers.

• The brickwork must initially be laid under the part of the bathtub where the legs of the structure were to be located.
• The last row of masonry must be placed close to the wall of the bathtub. For this purpose, pieces of brick are used.
• We leave the masonry to dry for several days. Then we check the struts and the stability of the structure.
• Along the perimeter of the brick bathtub we lay a screen right under the rim.

Many believe that this is the most reliable and relatively inexpensive way bathroom fixtures.

Do you need a screen?

Can also be imposed brick screen tiles to match the walls.

Remember that the screen will serve more than just a decorative function. It also provides additional rigidity to the entire structure. When constructing a side, try to ensure that the masonry is adjacent to its lower part along the perimeter. This will prevent the bowl from skewing if suddenly the lower supports are not strong enough.

This method of installing a bathroom is only relevant for metal. Therefore, it should not be used for acrylic bowl.

Attaching the bathtub to the wall and floor

Installation metal structure for brickwork is quite simple. But how to fix the bathtub to the wall and to the floor?

The metal bath must be installed on a standard supporting structure.

It may happen that the studs of the support legs are slightly smaller than the previously assumed size. In other words, if, for example, it was planned to install a container with a side height of 60 cm, and a bathtub with inverted legs reaches a height of 57 cm.

This problem can be easily solved by cutting required thickness pieces of tiles. Their glued elements at the location of the legs will allow you to securely fasten the bathtub.

Afterwards you need to measure the location of the lower edge of the side and install metallic profile according to the markings made earlier.

We seal the fasteners along the wall with silicone. To do this, in the upper part of the profile, retreating 1-2 mm, apply silicone sealant.

We move it to the wall so that its supports are in a certain place. If you glued additional pieces of tile, you need to install the bathtub no sooner than after 24 hours. After all, the silicone must completely polymerize.

We sorted out the metal bathtub. How to fix an acrylic bathtub, which is especially popular today?

Installing an acrylic corner bathtub on supports

Acrylic bathtubs are particularly popular today. The main advantage is low weight. But how to fix an acrylic bathtub? To the wall or on standard supports?

Installation of a bathtub made of this material on supports occurs in the following sequence:

• The product is removed from the packaging.
• It is necessary to lay a blanket or carpet on the floor, which will preserve the glossy surface from scratches. The bowl is turned over onto the covered floor.
• We measure the sides of the bathtub and compare them with the dimensions of the seat. A corner bath should always be installed correctly. In this case, the two walls that form the seat must converge with each other at right angles. Otherwise, there will be a gap between the walls and the bathroom, which is quite difficult to cover with something.
• We prepare all the components for making the bathtub frame.
• We lay out all the components separately. This will make it easier to reach them. So how do you secure the legs of a bathtub?
• Carefully insert plugs into the ends of the legs. We snap them well.
• We screw the studs into the adjusting legs (which have threads inside them).

• Screw 2 locknuts onto the studs.
• We assemble the profile from which the frame itself will be made in the future.
• The profile has a hole in the insert. The adjusting leg pin is screwed into it.
• The first locknut must be screwed tightly to the profile, the second - to the leg. This way the structure will be not only stable, but also reliable.
• We install the profiles on the bowl. We fasten them with self-tapping screws, which are included in the kit.
• When assembling the second profile, you need to prepare long and short pins.
• The smaller stud must be screwed in with locknuts using the same principle as the legs.
• But the pancake pin needs to be screwed on the side of the profile, which should be located on the side of the protrusion of the side of the bowl itself.
• We install the plastic legs on both sides on a longer screwed-in pin. Thus, one leg of the bowl should rest on the floor, and the other should rest on the side of the acrylic container.
• After installing the legs on both sides, tighten the nuts. Please note that after installing the support legs on the profile, their plugs must be placed at the same level. Using a ruler, you can check the location of the extreme points of the supporting legs. To do this, it is enough to measure the distance from the surface of the plug to the surface of the profile.
• We can assume that the acrylic bathtub is ready. Assembled structure can be turned over and installed in a prepared place.
• Using a level, check the position of the bowl. If necessary, align the legs by loosening the nuts on the supports.

Reinforced fastening of an acrylic bathtub

The above methods for securing a bathtub are considered the most popular. But the acrylic bowl can be secured in another way. After all, long-term operation of the bathtub on supports shows that this installation method has one drawback. Under the weight of a person, the bowl crunches in the area between the reinforced profiles. What to do if the bathtub is shaking? How to secure it correctly?

This minor drawback is not critical, but it is advisable to eliminate it. To do this, you need to prepare standard foam concrete blocks measuring 250 mm by 625 mm.

When you decide to install the bathtub on blocks, pay attention to the placement of the profile mounting frame. It must be spaced at a distance of 65 cm.

Foam concrete blocks must be installed under the bowl on mounting foam. After the foam has completely hardened, the bath will become motionless and stop crunching.

This method of installing a bathtub requires a minimum of financial costs, because you only need to purchase a bottle of foam and a few bricks.

Features of manufacturing the reinforced fastener design

So, installation work consists of performing sequential actions:

• Raise the bathtub to its maximum height using the adjusting supports.
• We blow strips of polyurethane foam along the perimeter of the future brick laying.
• We apply foam to the brick and lay it on the floor.
• We lower the bowl onto the foam using adjustable supports, which we secure with nuts.
• After 24 hours you can use the plumbing.

For better adhesion of the foam to the floor or brick, it is recommended to pre-moisten the surface with water from a spray bottle.

Remember that when you secure an object, you significantly complicate repairs and installation work generally. What else do you need to pay attention to before fixing the bathtub to its feet?

Stack of water

Correct device drainage of water is necessary for the normal functionality of plumbing in the bathroom. It depends not only on the parameters of the siphon, as many non-professionals believe. The main condition of the stack must be met: all siphon tubes and the drain must be located above the level of the sewer pipe.

A large height difference will allow water to drain faster. Thanks to the fast flow, the liquid can automatically clean the pipeline. As a result, you will have to do repairs and preventive inspections less often.

Remember: before attaching the bowl, you must raise the adjustable legs as high as possible. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the height does not affect the comfort of using the bathroom. The distance between the floor and the sides of the bathroom should be optimal.

Choosing a hose in a siphon

Experts recommend replacing flexible corrugated hoses in the siphon with smooth ones plastic pipes. Of course, it’s easier to work with them, because you don’t need to observe dimensions, they can be quickly bent in any position. But dirt accumulates in the folds of the corrugation, which is difficult to remove by simple washing. If the siphon is frequently disassembled, rubber seals and even threaded connections may suffer. As a result, serious damage occurs, which subsequently requires replacement of the entire device.

And if the bathtub is attached to the floor, then all repair work is extremely difficult. Experts recommend purchasing siphons in which the function of a sump is performed by an ordinary bend of the tube. This way the smell will not enter the room, and blockages will be much less common. And if they occur, there is no need to disassemble the structure; it is enough to use a regular plunger.

Bath quality

Experienced plumbers recommend giving preference to imported bathtub manufacturers. Unfortunately, modern domestic bowls cannot be characterized high quality. This applies not only to the coating, but also to the geometry of the product.

In domestic products, the corners of the sides are rarely straight. And an error of a few degrees over a long length can turn into several millimeters. Therefore, often in this case between flat wall and the side of the bowl forms a wedge-shaped gap. It is not recommended to hide it with silicone sealant, because the error will be too visible. In this case, ceramic or plastic special skirting boards are used, which must be mounted on fixed surfaces. The corners peel off at the slightest vibration. It is not recommended to re-glue them.

Conclusion

Arranging a bathroom is an important task that every owner who has a little experience in construction industry. Now you know how to fix a bathtub to the wall without difficulty.

, but also to replace the bathtub itself, especially if over the years of use it has lost its original appearance.

Of course you can try restore coverage using commercially available special enamels. This could become good decision in the case of a cast iron bathtub.

But, if you need to change your existing bathtub to a more modern one with beautiful design And additional amenities, then you will have to dismantle the old one and install a new one in its place.

We will talk about how to do this in this publication.

Removing an old bathroom

If you have not yet decided on a purchase, we recommend reading the article - Which bath to choose? If you have already made your choice and new bath already purchased, then you can start dismantling the old one.

To do this, you need to carefully disconnect the siphon, which is located below and screwed to the outlet using a nut, and also unscrew the overflow (attached to the overflow hole on the wall).

If the pipes are old and this cannot be done manually, use adjustable wrenches.

After disconnecting the siphon from the bathtub, it should also be disconnected from the sewer outlet pipe going to the riser. To do this, just carefully disassemble the socket connection, being careful not to damage the existing rubber ring, and plug the outlet pipe with a rag so that no debris gets into it when installing the bathtub.

After this, the bathtub can be moved from its place without fear of damaging the sewer pipes.

If the bathtub is cast iron, you can break it with a sledgehammer and take out the fragments in parts. This will significantly speed up the process and will not require large quantity people to take it out of the house and into the trash.

Video on how to break cast iron bath you can see below:

As you can see, there is nothing complicated about this, the main thing is to try to carry out all the work during the daytime, so as not to disturb the neighbors in the evening, since there will be a lot of noise.

Particular care should be taken in areas where the bathtub is connected to the sewer in old houses. As a rule, in Stalin and Khrushchev buildings, the sewerage system was made of cast iron pipes, which, if handled carelessly, can crack and cause you additional trouble relaying the sewerage system. Which was often embedded in the floor.

After old bath removed, you can start installing a new one.

Preparing the base

Installation begins by preparing a solid, level base.

If during dismantling you damage flooring or the floor already had unevenness, then everything should be done necessary work by leveling it so that the bathtub stands on a level floor.

To do this you should do cement screed and lay the tiles on the floor.

Only after a reliable foundation is ready can you begin to install the bathtub itself.

Installing legs on a cast iron bathtub

A cast iron bathtub is quite heavy and requires reliable support for installation. To do this, use legs that are attached to the bottom.

Previously, the legs were triangular cast iron castings, which were attached to the spacer between the bosses (protrusions) at the bottom of the bathtub and wedged with metal wedges:

The installation height in such cases was regulated by metal pads and it all did not look very neat.

Today the legs represent more complex design. They are attached using threaded connection and nuts, and their height is adjusted with screws using a wrench:

These are the legs that should first be secured to the bottom of the bathtub in order to immediately place it in the place where it will stand, and only after that proceed with the installation of the body kit in the form of a siphon, overflow and other devices, if any.

Installation of siphon and overflow

Installation of the siphon and overflow is carried out after the bathtub is securely on its legs.

The siphon is plastic construction, creating a water seal so that gases and bad smell from the sewer network:

The siphon is screwed on one side to the outlet in the bottom of the bath, and the overflow tube is screwed to the overflow hole on the wall.

The siphon outlet is connected to sewer pipe, discharging wastewater to the riser.

The siphon installation diagram looks as shown in the figure below:

The numbers indicate: 1 – overflow pipe; 2 – outlet in the bottom of the bath; 3 – siphon; 4 – pipe connected to the outlet pipe; 5 – overflow hole in the wall of the bathtub; 6 – bathtub, 7 – bathtub legs.

The siphon is assembled from the parts included in the kit, after which it is installed in the drain hole and secured using a nut with reverse side.

After this, the overflow tube is attached to the overflow in the same way.

The outlet pipe of the siphon is mounted to the sewer outlet pipe.

After the entire structure is assembled, you should take in water and make sure that no water is leaking anywhere. If you notice droplets somewhere, you should carefully, without applying much force, tighten the connections to seal the gasket.

Below you can watch a video on how to install a siphon in a bath:

As you can see, everything is quite simple and should not cause any difficulties when doing this work with your own hands.

Features of installing acrylic bathtubs

Let's now look at the main features of installing acrylic bathtubs.

Acrylic bathtubs appeared on our market not so long ago, but have long gained popularity due to the variety of shapes, sizes, colors, as well as their low weight, which makes it possible to do without a team of workers to move it to the installation site.

Previously, we already wrote how to choose an acrylic bathtub, if you haven’t read it yet, we recommend reading about the pros and cons of bathtubs made of this modern material.

And now a few words about their installation.

Acrylic bathtubs differ from steel and cast iron themes that their body has a smaller mechanical strength and can be easily damaged.

When a person with a lot of weight washes in such a bathtub, it plays noticeably, and over time, cracks may appear in the body.

To prevent this from happening, acrylic bathtubs are placed on a special rigid frame made from the structures that come with it.

The frame may have various options execution, but in general, the frame for an acrylic bathtub looks as shown in the photo below:

To assemble the frame, mark the places on the bottom of the bathtub where the frame will be attached to the bottom with self-tapping screws:

After that, small holes are drilled in the designated places. The main thing is not to drill through the bottom. The depth of the holes is indicated in the bath passport.

After the holes are ready, fasten the support metal slats to the bottom using self-tapping screws.

The bathroom bowl is the main item toilet room. You need to choose it by carefully considering the details of the design of the rest of the room. Comfort during hygiene procedures depends on how correctly the bath is selected. The installation process also requires no less attention, because it affects the quality and duration of future operation.

There are several options on the market:

Is it possible to install a bathtub yourself?

Installing a bathtub with your own hands is quite a feasible task, but it will require time, care and the help of at least one person, especially when installing a heavy cast-iron model.

Before you start self-installation, read the instructions for installing the bowl itself and connecting the water line and sewerage to it.

The technology for installing a corner bathtub and a straight bowl is no different. The main criterion is the material and size of the bathroom.

Important! For a small room, a corner design - great option, which will allow you to rationally delimit the entire space.

Installation sequence

We will divide the entire course of work into several successive stages:

1. Preparatory.
2. Driving and fastening the bowl.
3. Connecting the drain to the sewer.
4. Grounding.
5. Processing joints and gaps.
6. Installing a screen under the bath.
7. Facing.

Preparatory work

This process is very important for correct installation bathroom

First make sure that you have all the tools necessary during the installation of the bowl itself and attaching it to engineering systems. Refer to the following list:

In addition to preparing your tools, do the following:

Bringing in and securing the bowl

Installation of a cast iron bath

Not only the fastening of the bathtub, but also its lifting has its own technology:

Installing an acrylic bathtub on a factory frame

The technology for installing a plastic bowl differs from a cast iron one. To install it, you definitely need a frame, which will bear all the weight during operation.

When purchasing, select additional equipment for installation:

• Parts for attaching the bath bowl to the wall
• Fasteners for mounting the panel to the bathtub
• Set for connecting the drain hole to the sewer
• Decorative panels
• Frame.

In this case, the entire installation process will be quite quick and easy.

Look carefully at the diagram for installing the bathtub and assembling the frame, attached to the instructions.

Instructions for installing a bathtub with a finished frame:

Installing a plastic bathtub on a do-it-yourself frame

Technology self-creation frame will require more time, effort and Supplies. It is used in the absence of factory parts, and also if the specified drain height does not correspond to the height of the bowl.

Important! Installation of a steel bathtub follows the same principle.

Prepare in advance:

• wooden blocks
• drying oil or antiseptic solution for wood
• sheets of waterproof plywood, at least 15 mm thick
• self-tapping screws for wood and concrete
• glue mixture
• mounting angles.

Perform the work according to the following scheme:

Plumbing connection

Grounding

This process is required when installing a bathtub made of steel and cast iron.

It is better to entrust grounding to a specialist, but if you decide to do all the work yourself, then consider the nuances of the technology:

Sealing seams when installing a bathroom

All seams, joints drain system and the gaps at the points of contact between the bowl and the walls should be carefully sealed upon completion of all installation work. To create gaps, use cement mixture, if the joints with the sides of the bathroom are insignificant, or silicone sealant, which is also excellent for sealing the seams of the drainage system.

In the case when the gaps between the wall and the sides of the bowl are more than 5 cm:

Installing a screen under the bath

In order to give an attractive and finished look to your bathroom design, installing a screen would be an excellent solution. The easiest way is to install a ready-made kit.

But you can easily cut the parts yourself, just by selecting the material to your liking and a more suitable design.

The most popular options for screen design:

When forming it, adhere to the following recommendations:

1. Eliminate load bearing to the screen.
2. Carefully and hermetically seal the opening.
3. Separate the floor under the bathtub from the rest of the room's floor to prevent water from leaking inside.
4. Provide access to the drain and other plumbing systems running under the bathtub by installing a small door.
5. Carefully measure all parts, maintaining the accuracy of the parameters
6. Attach to a pre-created frame or special panels.
7. When making a screen made of chipboard, plywood or plastic, cut vent 2*5 cm or 2*10 cm in the side opposite the technical hole.

Facing

Wall cladding - the final stage decorative design bathroom. Do this only after the bathtub and other plumbing items are securely fastened. Regardless of what you choose facing material, be sure to maintain free access to pipes and joints.

Bathroom renovation

In order to repair a bathtub that is worn out or has lost its attractiveness and smoothness, it is not necessary to replace the bowl with a new one. An excellent alternative would be *installing liners in the bath*.

Most often they are made from acrylic, which makes the process less labor-intensive due to the lightness of the material.

Installing an acrylic liner in the bathtub will quickly return it to its original appearance without excessive effort.

Carry out all work in the following sequence:

1. Measure the bathtub and select a model with the appropriate parameters.
   
2. Sand the entire surface of the old thicket with fine-grit sandpaper.
   
   

   Important! The degree of adhesion between the surface of the old bathtub and the new liner depends on how carefully this process is performed.

3. Wash the bathtub, removing all debris and dust.
4. Wait for the surface to dry.
5. Remove the drain siphon.
6. Install the liner inside the bathtub.
7. Mark with a marker the extra protrusion along the side of the bowl and the location of the drain and overflow holes.
   

   Important! Measure the drain and overflow circle, for example, using a removed siphon.

8. Cut off all excess clearly along the lines.
   
9. Apply sealant to the inside of the bathtub along the sides and foam throughout the rest of the area.
   
   
10. Insert the insert.
    
11. Press firmly on all sides.
12. For maximum tight adhesion, press along the sides with clamps, placing wooden blocks under them.
13. Install the siphon immediately.
14. Close the drain hole with a plug.
15. Pour water into the tub just below the overflow hole.
    
    

    Important! Water will become the necessary load, and over the entire area of ​​the bowl, without empty spaces.

16. Leave in this position for a day.
17. Drain the water and start using the bathtub as usual.
18. Watch a video on the technology of installing a liner in a bathtub.

Conclusion

As you have already seen, the entire installation process is not particularly complicated. The main thing is to be consistent, perform all work carefully and carefully. Result correct installation bathroom - convenience and comfort during water procedures for many years.