Rhododendron Allah planting and care. Planting rhododendrons in spring and autumn: care and cultivation in open ground
Plant rhododendron (lat. Rhododendron)- a genus of semi-deciduous, deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs of the Heather family, which, according to various sources, includes from eight hundred to one thousand three hundred species, including those popular in indoor floriculture azaleas, which have received the nickname “indoor rhododendron.” The word "rhododendron" consists of two roots: "rhodon", which means "rose", and "dendron" - tree, which as a result forms the concept of "rose tree", or "tree with roses". But azaleas really look like roses. In nature, rhododendrons are distributed mainly in the Northern Hemisphere - in Southern China, Japan, the Himalayas, North America and Southeast Asia. Most often they are found in the coastal zone of rivers, seas and oceans, in the penumbra of undergrowth and on the northern slopes of mountains. Some rhododendrons are capable of growing up to 30 cm in height, while other species are creeping shrubs. The flowers of plants of this genus differ in size, color, and shape. Suffice it to say that the smallest of them are literally tiny in size, and the largest reach a diameter of 20 cm. Garden rhododendron Today it has about 3000 forms, varieties and varieties.
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Planting and caring for rhododendron (in brief)
- Landing: from April to mid-May or from September to November.
- Bloom: in late April-early June for 2-3 weeks. Abundant flowering occurs after a year.
- Lighting: partial shade or shade.
- The soil: well-drained, loose, rich in humus, acidic.
- Watering: The soil should be soaked with slightly acidified water to a depth of 20-30 cm. A sign that it is time for watering is the loss of turgor by the leaves.
- Trimming: minimal, in early spring, before sap flow begins.
- Feeding: liquid organic matter (cow manure solution or horn meal) or mineral fertilizer solutions on pre-moistened soil with early spring until the end of July.
- Reproduction: seeds, dividing the bush, grafting, cuttings and layering.
- Pests: aphids, mealybugs, bedbugs, weevils, spider mites, scale insects, rhododendron flies, snails and slugs.
- Diseases: chlorosis, rust, powdery mildew, leaf spot and cancer.
Read more about growing rhododendron below.
Rhododendron flower - description
Garden rhododendron is represented by shrubs with leaves of various sizes and shapes - annual, biennial and perennial, sessile or petiolate, alternate, entire or serrate, ovate or obovate. The rhododendron flower is popular all over the world due to the decorative nature of its foliage, but its main advantage is the magnificent flowers of white, pink, red, violet, lilac, collected in shields or brushes, reminiscent of a chic bouquet. Depending on the variety and type, the shape of the flowers can be bell-shaped, funnel-shaped, wheel-shaped or tubular. In some species, the flowers emit a pleasant aroma. The fruit of rhododendron is a polyspermous five-leaf capsule with seeds up to 2 mm in size. The root system of rhododendron is compact, superficial, consisting of many fibrous roots, and precisely because of its superficial location, replanting rhododendron is easy and does not cause much trouble to either the gardener or the plant. Rhododendron is an excellent early spring honey plant.
Planting rhododendron
Where and when is the best time to plant rhododendron?
In our climate, it makes sense to grow rhododendrons in the garden exclusively that are winter-hardy. Rhododendron is planted in the ground from April to mid-May, as well as from September to November. Actually, if necessary, this can be done at any time during the growing season, with the exception of the time when the rhododendron blooms, and within one to two weeks after flowering. It is better to plant rhododendron in the shade, on the north side of the building, in loose, well-drained acidic soil rich in humus. If the groundwater in your area lies at a depth of less than one meter, rhododendron is planted in a raised bed. Neighbors of rhododendron can be pine, oak, larch - trees with a root system that goes deep. Tree species such as linden, chestnut, alder, maple, willow, elm or poplar will deprive the rhododendron of necessary nutrition because their roots will feed at the same depth as the rhododendron's roots. If it is not possible to avoid such a neighborhood, you will have to protect the rhododendron root system by digging roofing material, slate or polyethylene into the ground. Garden trees - apple trees, pears - are considered good neighbors for rhododendron.
How to plant rhododendron
A thoroughly mixed mixture of 8 buckets of high-moor peat and 3.5 buckets of loam (you can replace loam with two buckets of clay) is poured into a planting hole with a diameter of about 60 cm and a depth of about 40 cm. The mixture at the bottom of the hole is carefully compacted, and then a hole is dug in it that corresponds to the size of the root ball of the seedling. Before planting, place the rhododendron seedlings in water and keep them there until air bubbles stop appearing. Then place the roots of the seedling in the hole, fill the hole to the top with substrate, compacting it so that there are no voids left. The root collar of the rhododendron should eventually be level with the surface of the site. Water the bush generously if you planted the rhododendron in dry soil, so that the soil is wet to a depth of 20 cm, and mulch the tree trunk circle with peat, oak leaves, moss or pine needles in a layer of 5-6 cm. If there are a lot of flower buds on the bush, better part remove from them in order to direct forces to successful rooting, and not on the flowering of rhododendron. When planting alone in a spacious area, so that the wind does not shake the newly planted plant, you need to stick a support, tilting it towards the direction of the most frequently blowing winds, and tie the seedling to it. Once the bush takes root, the support can be removed.
Rhododendron care
Caring for rhododendron includes the usual procedures: watering, spraying, weeding, fertilizing, forming a bush and controlling diseases and pests, if the need arises. It is strictly forbidden to loosen the soil around the rhododendron, much less dig it up, because the roots of the plant are located too close to the surface. For the same reasons, weeds must be removed manually, without using a hoe. Rhododendron needs soil and atmospheric moisture more than other plants, especially during the period of bud formation and flowering. Proper watering also affects the formation of flower buds next year. Watering is carried out with soft water - settled or rain. You can soften and at the same time acidify the water for rhododendron by adding several handfuls of high-moor peat to it a day before watering. The frequency of watering is determined by the condition of the leaves: if they become dull and lose turgor, it means they are thirsty. When moistened, the soil should get wet to a depth of 20-30 cm. However, when watering the rhododendron, it is very important not to flood the roots, since the plant is sensitive to excess moisture in the roots, but behaves in the same way when waterlogged as in drought - it drops and curls its leaves . To prevent rhododendron from misleading you, in dry and hot weather, try, without increasing the amount of water when watering, to spray rhododendron leaves with soft water as often as possible.
Rhododendron pruning
Pruning of rhododendrons should be minimal, since their bushes themselves form the correct shape. However, sometimes it is necessary to cut your hair too tall bushes, remove frozen shoots or rejuvenate old rhododendron. How to properly prune an adult bush? The shoots are pruned in early spring, before the sap begins to flow. In those places where the thickness of the branches reaches 2-4 cm, the cuts are treated with garden varnish. After a month, dormant buds awaken on the shoots, and the renewal process begins, which continues throughout the year. Very old or heavily frozen bushes are pruned at a height of 30-40 cm from the ground: in the first year, one half of the bush, next year- second.
Rhododendrons have one peculiarity: one year they bloom and bear fruit very abundantly, and the next year both flowering and fruiting of rhododendron are much more modest. To get rid of this frequency, you need to break out the wilted inflorescences immediately after flowering so that the rhododendron can use its strength and nutrition to form flower buds for the next year.
Feeding rhododendron
Even those rhododendrons that were planted this year need to be fertilized, and the first fertilizing is done in early spring, and the last one at the end of July, after flowering, when young shoots begin to grow. Rhododendrons prefer liquid fertilizers made from half-rotted cow manure and horn meal. Manure is poured with water in a ratio of 1:15 and allowed to brew for several days, and only then used as fertilizer. Before applying fertilizing, the rhododendron is watered. Since rhododendrons grow in acidic soils, so as not to disturb the reaction of the environment, it is preferable to use ammonium sulfate, superphosphate, nitrate, potassium sulfate or phosphate, calcium sulfate and magnesium sulfate in a very weak concentration - 1.2:1000, as mineral fertilizers, and a solution of potassium fertilizers can be even weaker. The optimal feeding regime involves the application of organic or mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers in early spring at the rate of 50 g of ammonium sulfate and 50 g of magnesium sulfate per 1 m², and after flowering, in early June, 40 g of ammonium sulfate and 20 g superphosphate and potassium sulfate. In July, only 20 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate are added per 1 m².
Pests and diseases of rhododendron
Of the pests that bother rhododendrons the most are mealybugs, scale insects, spider mites, bedbugs, weevils, rhododendron flies, as well as snails and slugs. Gastropods are collected by hand, and as a preventive measure, rhododendron is treated with an eight percent solution of the fungicide TMTD, or Thiram. Spider mites, rhododendron bugs, and weevils are destroyed by treating with diazinon, and if the rhododendron is damaged by the weevil, the top layer of soil will also have to be treated with an insecticide. The remaining insects are exterminated with karbofos in accordance with the instructions for the drug.
The most common disease that plagues rhododendrons fungal diseases– leaf spot, cancer, chlorosis, rust. They usually arise as a result of poor root aeration. Spots and rust are destroyed with copper sulfate preparations, in particular Bordeaux mixture. Chlorosis, which causes rhododendron to turn yellow, requires the addition of iron chelate to the water for irrigation. As for cancer, it is necessary to remove diseased shoots or cut them back to healthy tissue; in addition, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatments of rhododendron with Bordeaux mixture in early spring and late autumn.
Rhododendron propagation
Rhododendrons reproduce generatively (by seeds) and vegetatively - by dividing the bush, layering, cuttings and grafting. The easiest way to propagate rhododendrons is by layering, and we will tell you about this method, as well as how to properly sow seeds and carry out cuttings. Rhododendron seeds are sown in bowls with well-moistened heather or peat soil mixed with sand at a ratio of 3:1, the seeds are sprinkled with washed sand on top, the bowls are covered with glass and placed in a bright place for germination. Caring for crops involves moistening the substrate as needed, daily ventilation and removing condensation from the glass. Sprouts usually appear after a month, and when a pair of leaves appears at the seedlings, they are planted more freely according to a 2x3 cm pattern, buried in the ground along the cotyledons, so that the root system of the seedlings is formed. The first year, the seedlings are kept in a cool greenhouse, and the next year they are planted in open ground on training beds with garden soil mixed with sand and peat. Seedlings grow very slowly and bloom only in 6-8 years.
Propagating rhododendron from cuttings is not much easier. Semi-lignified shoots are suitable for this, from which cuttings 5-8 cm long are cut. Lower leaves the cuttings are removed, and the lower sections are kept for 12-16 hours in a solution of a root growth stimulator, for example, heteroauxin. Then the cuttings are placed in a mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 3:1 and covered with a transparent dome. It takes a long time for cuttings to take root: deciduous species take one and a half months, and evergreen species take 3-4.5 months. The cuttings are grown in boxes with a mixture of peat and pine needles in a ratio of 2:1, for the winter they are taken out to a cool, bright room, where the temperature is kept between 8-12 ºC, and in the spring they are buried in the garden directly in the boxes and grown for another year or two until transplantation to a permanent place.
Dropping layering is the easiest and most natural way to propagate rhododendron. In the spring, a young, flexible shoot from those growing at the very bottom of the bush is bent and placed in a pre-made groove at least 15 cm deep, and the middle part of the shoot is pinned in the groove, and garden soil mixed with peat is poured on top of it. The tip of the shoot remains on the surface and is tied to a peg stuck vertically. Throughout the entire season, the cuttings are moistened along with the bush, and in the fall or next spring the rooted cuttings are separated from mother plant and transplanted to a permanent place. It is best to propagate deciduous rhododendron in this way.
Rhododendron after flowering
Rhododendron in autumn
If the autumn turns out to be dry, the rhododendron needs to be watered abundantly - 10-12 liters for each bush. If autumn, as usual, is rainy, then you won’t have to water the rhododendrons. By November, each bush is insulated in the root zone, laying a layer of peat around the tree trunk.
Rhododendron in winter
If you live in the middle zone, with the first frost, the rhododendron bushes should be covered with burlap, having first inserted spruce and pine branches between the branches and lightly pulled the bush together with twine. Remove the bags on a cloudy day in early spring, as soon as the snow melts. In warmer areas, rhododendrons overwinter without shelter.
Types and varieties of rhododendrons
You can talk endlessly about the types of rhododendron, since there are a lot of them. We will give a description of those that are grown in culture, and also introduce you to the most popular garden varieties rhododendrons.
Dahurian rhododendron (Rhododendron dahuricum)
grows naturally in the Primorsky Territory, Northeast China, Korea, Eastern Siberia and Northern Mongolia, preferring coniferous forests and rocks. This is an evergreen, medium-sized, highly branched shrub ranging in height from two to four meters with gray bark and upward-pointing branches. Its shoots are thin, reddish-brown in color, pubescent with short hair towards the ends. Small leathery leaves up to three centimeters long are smooth on the upper side of the plate, scaly underneath - light green in youth, darker in color in maturity, and either brown or red-green in autumn. Not all leaves fall off with the onset of winter; many of them remain on the branches all winter. Abundant flowering of Daurian rhododendron, lasting about three weeks, occurs before the leaves bloom with large funnel-shaped flowers of a violet-pink hue, reaching 4 cm in diameter. Sometimes in the fall the Daurian rhododendron blooms again. This species is very winter-hardy and easily propagated by green cuttings. Has two varieties:
- evergreen form with dark green leaves and purple-lilac flowers;
- garden early hybrid, low-growing, with abundant, bright, early-blooming bluish-red flowers up to 5 cm in diameter. This form is not as winter-hardy as the main type.
Adams rhododendron (Rhododendron adamsii)
- evergreen rhododendron, growing in the Far East and the northeastern foothills of Tibet and choosing mountain forests and rocky slopes for habitat. It is a branched shrub up to half a meter high with shoots covered with glandular hair. Dense matte green leaves are oblong-elliptical, up to 2 cm long and up to 2 cm wide, glabrous above, reddish below due to scales. Flowers up to one and a half cm in diameter of different shades of pink are collected in corymbose inflorescences of 7-15 pieces. This rhododendron is included in the Red Book of Buryatia.
Japanese rhododendron (Rhododendron japonicum)
as the name implies, it comes from Japan, from the sunny mountains of the island of Honshu. This species is one of the most beautiful deciduous rhododendrons, which is a branched shrub up to two meters high with shoots bare or covered with silvery bristles. The leaf of Japanese rhododendron is green, oblong-lanceolate, with soft pubescence on both sides of the leaf blade. In autumn the leaves turn orange-red. Fragrant bell-shaped flowers up to 8 cm in diameter, collected in 6-12 pieces in racemes, painted orange and scarlet-red. In the middle zone there is no species equal in beauty to the Japanese rhododendron. In addition, the species is winter-hardy and propagates well by cuttings and seeds.
Caucasian rhododendron (Rhododendron caucasicum)
It grows wild in the Caucasus, as its name suggests. This is a low evergreen shrub with creeping branches. The leaves of the Caucasian rhododendron are leathery, oval, oblong, dark green, bare on the upper side of the plate and felt-red on the bottom, located on long thick petioles. Fragrant funnel-shaped, bell-shaped, yellowish flowers with green spots inside the throat are collected in 8-12 pieces in racemose inflorescences located on hairy peduncles. The species has several decorative forms:
- pink-white, which blooms earlier than the main species;
- shiny with dark pink flowers;
- golden yellow with yellow flowers decorated with greenish specks;
- straw-yellow with yellow flowers with reddish spots.
In addition to the described species, rhododendrons of Albrecht, Atlantic, Vazeya, holoflowered, tree-like, yellow, coarse-haired, western, golden, Indian, Kamchatka, Canadian, Carolina, Carpathian, carpal, sticky, short-fruited, blushing, largest, large-leaved, Katevba, Lapland are grown in culture. , Ledebura, small-leaved, marigold, sea buckthorn, pointed, dense, pontic, attractive, pukhansky, rusty, equal-tall, pink, sikhotinsky, plum-leaved, blunt, rooting, yakushimansky and many others.
Rhododendron hybrid
– this is the name given to a set of varieties and hybrids of rhododendrons grown in culture. In other words, hybrid rhododendron is a garden rhododendron. The most popular varieties of hybrid rhododendron are:
- German cultivar Alfred, bred by crossing the Everestina variety with the Katevba rhododendron and is an evergreen shrub up to 120 cm high with a crown diameter of about one and a half meters. The leaves are oblong-elliptical, dark green and shiny. Bright purple flowers with a yellow-green spot up to 6 cm in diameter are collected in dense inflorescences of 15-20 pieces;
- Blue Peter variety obtained by crossing Pontian rhododendron. The height of the bush is more than one and a half meters. The crown is spreading, up to two meters in diameter. Flowers up to 6 cm in diameter are lavender-blue with ruffled edges and with a dark purple spot on the upper petal;
- Jacksony- an English hybrid between the Nobleanum variety and the Caucasian rhododendron. The bush is up to two meters high, the crown diameter is about three meters. There is a low-growing form up to 80 cm high. The leaves are oblong, leathery, matte green above and brown below. The flowers, collected in inflorescences of 8-12 pieces, have a pink tint during blooming, and later become white with a yellow spot on one petal;
- Rose Marie- a variety of Czech selection, bred by crossing the Pink Pearl variety and the magnificent rhododendron. The height of the bush is 120 cm, the circumference of the crown is one and a half meters. The leaves are oblong-elliptical, leathery, the upper side of the leaf blade is light green in color with a waxy coating, the bottom leaves are blue-green, glossy. The flowers, pale pink at the edges and deep pink with a purple tint towards the middle, are collected in compact spherical inflorescences of 6-14 pieces;
- Nova Zembla– a Dutch hybrid between the Persone Gloriosum variety and the Katevbinsky rhododendron. Bush up to 3 m high and loose crown up to 3.5 m in girth. The shoots grow almost vertically, the leaves are large, leathery, shiny. Large flowers up to 6 cm in diameter, red with a black spot, collected 10-12 pieces in dense inflorescences;
- Cunningham- a Scottish cultivar, the most popular variety of Caucasian rhododendron, reaching a height of two meters with a crown diameter of one and a half meters. The leaves are oblong, leathery, dark green, up to 6 cm long and up to 3 cm wide. White flowers with yellow-brown specks are collected in 10 pieces in dense inflorescences.
Properties of rhododendron
In addition to its undeniable decorative advantages, rhododendron has medicinal properties that are widely used in folk and traditional medicine. Species such as Dahurian rhododendron, golden rhododendron, Adams rhododendron, Caucasian rhododendron contain andromedotoxin, ericoline, arbutin and rhododendrin. Rhododendron leaves also contain ascorbic acid, the highest concentration of which in the plant is observed in the summer months. Due to the content useful for human body substances rhododendron has antipyretic, analgesic, bactericidal, sedative and diaphoretic effects. It removes excess fluid from the body, relieving shortness of breath, swelling, rapid heartbeat, lowers arterial and venous pressure and enhances cardiac activity. However, rhododendron is far from harmless. During pregnancy and breastfeeding, as well as patients with tissue necrosis and serious kidney diseases, you should refrain from taking drugs based on rhododendron. And in any case, before taking such medications, it would be best to first consult with your doctors.
Rhododendron in the Moscow region - features
Sometimes amateur flower growers, fascinated by a beautiful advertising picture, become eager to grow a strange bush called rhododendron in their garden. But how often, despite the money, time and effort spent, they are disappointed - the bush on the site looks completely different from the one in the advertising booklet, moreover, it withers every day and, in the end, dies. Is it possible to avoid such a sad ending and grow heat-loving plant rhododendron in Moscow, for example? Is it possible to grow rhododendron in the Moscow region, in Leningrad region and other areas of the middle zone? As they say, when the right approach nothing is impossible.
Planting rhododendron in the Moscow region
Firstly, you need to know exactly which type of rhododendron can survive the winter near Moscow, since non-cold-resistant species and varieties die from frost even under cover. It is best to plant, of course, deciduous species of rhododendrons: Japanese, yellow, Schlippenbach, Vazeya, Canadian, Kamchatka, Pukhansky. Of the semi-evergreen species, the Ledebur rhododendron is suitable, and of the evergreen species, you can grow the Katevbinsky rhododendron (as well as its hybrids Alfred, Abraham Lincoln, Nova Zembla, Cunningham White), short-fruited, golden, largest rhododendrons and Smirnova rhododendron and its hybrids Gabriel, Dorothy Swift, Laika. Recently bred in Finland, they have proven themselves well. winter-hardy varieties Elvira, The Hague, Mikkeli. Hybrids of the Northern Light group Rosie Lights, Pink Lights, Spicy Lights and others winter well in the middle zone.
If you purchased a winter-hardy rhododendron, then you need to know how to plant it correctly. First, you need to do this in the spring by choosing semi-shaded place no closer than a meter from any other plants. Secondly, buy special soil for rhododendron or make your own mixture of garden soil, pine needles and peat. You need to add complex mineral fertilizer to the soil. Thirdly, the hole for the rhododendron seedling should be twice as large more container with the root system of the seedling, and if the soil on the site is clayey, be sure to pour a drainage layer of broken bricks 15 cm thick. Fourthly, do not bury the root collar when planting - let it remain at the same level as in the container. After planting, be sure to water the seedling.
Caring for rhododendron in the Moscow region
Planting and caring for rhododendron in the Moscow region is not much different from growing this plant in regions with warmer winters, but there are still differences. We offer you a list of requirements, having fulfilled which, you can fully count on success, despite the cool climate of your area:
- Rhododendrons grow in acidic humus soils. In the area where the roots come from nutrients, there should be no dolomite, ash, lime and other substances that alkalize the soil;
- mulching of rhododendron tree trunk circles is mandatory, especially since it is impossible to loosen and dig up the soil around the bushes due to the horizontal location of the rhododendron root system;
- in the spring, protect the rhododendron from sunlight with a net, gauze or cloth;
- The most important factor for success is deep and balanced watering of the rhododendron: it should receive exactly as much moisture as it needs, no more, no less. In dry, hot summers, watering is carried out twice a week.
Sometimes at the beginning of autumn, due to warm, rainy weather, rhododendrons begin to grow, but the young shoots do not have time to ripen and die in the winter. To avoid unwanted late growth of shoots, spray the bush in dry weather with a one percent solution of potassium sulfate or monophosphate from a fine spray - this measure will stop growth, stimulate lignification of shoots and the formation of flower buds for the next year. However, after spraying, you should stop watering the rhododendron, even if the weather becomes dry.
, Garden trees,Rhododendron's frost resistance is quite high, but in regions with long-term low temperatures it is better to cover these bushes for the winter.
Where does the rhododendron rose grow, a description of the leaves and flowers of the bush
The rhododendron plant belongs to the Ericaceae family. Its homeland is Asia, America, Europe, Siberia, the Far East, the Caucasus, Altai.
The rhododendron tree came down to us from the mountains, which means that it loves rocky soil, is quite cold-resistant, tolerates sharp temperature fluctuations more easily than valley plants. In a northwestern climate this is quite frost-resistant plants, but not winter-hardy. In addition to winter thaws, there are also treacherous late spring frosts, to which few plants have managed to adapt. Where does rhododendron grow in Russia? In our country, these plants are distributed wild in the Sikhote-Alin mountains, Sakhalin, Kamchatka and the Far East, and they manage to climb to great heights (2–4 km!). Often in natural conditions Rhododendron bushes grow under the canopy of a sparse pine forest. Most rhododendrons like acidic soil and prefer to grow in partial shade.
Rhododendrons were brought to Europe just about two hundred years ago, and by early XIX century there were only about 15 species there. They turned out to be such an attractive material for breeding that a literally avalanche-like process began not only of breeding new varieties and hybrids, but also of searching for ever new species growing in nature. Currently, there are thousands of varieties of these amazing plants!
Slowly but surely, rhododendron bushes are spreading not only throughout the gardens and parks of the world, but also on our native six hundred square meters. If twenty years ago they were an exotic rarity, now it is rare that a gardener does not try to “domesticate” them on his site.
Rhododendrons are very diverse. There are trees among them. Their height reaches six meters, there are also real twenty-meter giants! But at the same time, there are many shrub forms from 80 cm to 2–3 m in height. There are also dwarf individuals that form low pillows only 30 cm high. There are also creeping species, by the way, are most suitable for the North-West region.
As can be seen in the photo, bell-shaped, cup-shaped or funnel-shaped rhododendron flowers can range in size from 0.5 cm in diameter to 10 or even 15 cm, and their color is always bright, and the palette of colors is unusually wide:
Isn't there only black and blue colors. Almost all species have leathery, glossy oval leaves. Flowering is abundant. Good healthy plants are capable of being completely covered in flowers. Rhododendrons, generally speaking, are long-lived, so when you purchase them, remember that you are planting a plant for many years, and therefore the rhododendron cannot be stuck anywhere and anyhow. The place for it must be chosen carefully, and the soil for planting must be prepared in advance. And only then go to nurseries and choose a plant very carefully, having found out what kind of species or variety you are purchasing, what features it has, because not all species, much less varieties and hybrids of rhododendrons, will be able to grow in your climate zone and specifically in your garden.
Heather family. The genus got its name from the Greek words rhodon - rose and dendron - tree. Rose rhododendron includes about 1,300 species and approximately 30,000 cultivars of evergreen, semi-evergreen and deciduous shrubs and trees growing in the cold and temperate zones of the Northern Hemisphere, especially in the mountains. Original ornamental shrubs or even small trees with dense, leathery, evergreen foliage and large bell-shaped flowers are very popular all over the world. Interest in rhododendron is due to the decorativeness of the foliage and the variety of shapes of the bushes, but most of all - the splendor of white, pink, lilac, violet, red flowers, collected in umbrella-shaped inflorescences reminiscent of a bouquet.
Rhododendron is a very decorative shrub, depending on the type, it can have any height, but usually reaches up to two meters, with a superficial, compact root system consisting of a large number of fibrous roots, with leaves of various sizes and shapes, which can be like perennial and annual, both sessile and with petioles, with bisexual, large funnel-shaped or bell-shaped flowers in lush umbellate or corymbose inflorescences of any color, located at the tips of the branches, as well as with rod-shaped, small seeds in a five-leaf, multi-seeded a box that opens downwards.
A very demanding plant that prefers moist, but well-drained, lime-free soils, high humidity air and slight shading. At a young age it develops very slowly. In addition, the plant must be provided with annual mulching of the soil with peat in the fall, and in case of drought, abundant watering. It is better to carry out the plant propagation process in the summer, using layering.
The shrub flower rhododendron is recommended for wide use in landscaping garden plots in group plantings and tapeworms on lawns. The shrub is valued for its beautiful autumn leaf color. Many evergreen species are suitable for growing indoors. Rhododendron in the garden can be used to landscape inconvenient places on the site. They make excellent low-growing borders and hedges. It has many beneficial properties - soil protective, medicinal, essential oil, etc.
Types and varieties of rhododendron tree: photo and description
Among huge amount of various types of rhododendron for central Russia the following types are especially suitable:
R. daurskii (Rh. dahuricum) - a strongly branched, medium-sized, deciduous shrub up to 2 - 2.5 m tall from the Khabarovsk and Primorsky Territories. The leaves are oblong, up to 5 cm long, green, and bright yellow in autumn. The flowers are pink-violet, funnel-shaped. This type of rhododendron blooms early and abundantly.
R. Kamchatsky (Ph. kamtschaticum) - homeland of the Russian Far East, Japan, North America. Forms hemispherical bushes, bright carmine flowers, blooms in June - July.
R. canadensis (Ph. canadense) - deciduous shrub up to 1 m tall. The leaves are elliptical, bluish-green. The flowers are pink-lilac. Blooms in April - May. R. Smirnova (Ph. smirnowii) - homeland of the Caucasus, Türkiye. An evergreen shrub up to 1 - 2 m tall, with oblong-elliptical leaves 8-10 cm long. The flowers are purple. Blooms from late May to mid-June.
R. parvifolia (Ph. parviflorum) - an evergreen shrub 0.5 -0.6 m tall from Siberia, the Far Eastern Territory, Japan, Korea, and the USA. The leaves are oblong-lanceolate. Flowers up to 3 cm in diameter, golden in color. Blooms in May - June. A very beautiful plant.
These species, like others, invariably delight amateur gardeners with their grace and richness of colors.
In the conditions of central Russia, some types of rhododendron require shelter for the winter, especially for evergreen plants. The best time shelters is the first ten days of November.
Rhododendron Ledeboura – Rhododendron ledebourii. Blooms in April – May. The flowers are pinkish-lilac, the height of the bush is 0.5–1.8 m (hereinafter the height of the plants in the culture is indicated). In winter, rhododendron leaves remain on the bushes and fall off in the spring as shoots begin to grow.
Rhododendron ketevba – Rhododendron catawbiense. Blooms in late May – June. The flowers are lilac-purple, the height of the bush is up to 1.5 m.
Rhododendron short-fruited – Rhododendron brachycarpum. Blooms in June-July. The flowers are white or slightly pinkish, the height of the bush is up to 10 m
Rhododendron is the largest – Rhododendron maximum. Blooms in June – July. The flowers are white or pink, the height of the bush is about 1.0 m.
Rhododendron Smirnova – Rhododendron smirnowii. Blooms in May – June. The flowers are pink, the height of the bush is up to 1.0 m.
Rhododendron Vazea – Rhododendron vaseyi. Blooms in May. The flowers are white pinkish, the height of the bush is 1.2 m.
Rhododendron yellow – Rhododendron luteum. It grows wild in the Caucasus, Balkans, and Asia Minor. A beautiful deciduous shrub with a spreading form, up to 2–3 m high, with oblong-ovate, bright green leaves. In autumn the foliage turns various shades of red and orange flowers. The flowers are large, yellow, very fragrant, up to 5–8 cm in diameter. Blooms in late May – June.
Rhododendron acuminate – Rhododendron mucronulatum. It grows wild in the Far East, Northeast China and Japan. Shrub 2–3 m tall, with elliptical, bright green, shiny leaves. The flowers are funnel-bell-shaped, up to 3–4 cm in diameter, pink, arranged several together or singly. It blooms in April, before the leaves bloom, very profusely for about a month. When describing the rhododendron plant, it is worth noting its beautiful bronze foliage in autumn.
Rhododendron pukhanski – Rhododendron khanense. Blooms in May – June. The flowers are pale lilac-purple, the height of the bush is 0.8 m. Young plants require shelter for the winter.
Rhododendron Schlippenbach – Rhododendron schlippenbachii. Blooms in May. The flowers are white or pinkish, the height of the bush is 1.0–1.2 m.
Japanese rhododendron – Rhododendron japonicum. Blooms in late May – June. The flowers are salmon-red, the height of the bush is 1.0–1.5 m. There is a form with yellow flowers.
In addition to species plants, there are many evergreen and deciduous varieties of rhododendrons, the description of which is characterized by high winter hardiness (the temperature is indicated for flower buds, the crops themselves are more hardy).
Hybrids of Rhododendron Ketevba (cold resistance -32 °C):“Alfred”, “Boursault”, “Catawbiense”, “Grandiflorum”, “Abraham Lincoln”, “Zembla”, “Rozeum Elegans” - bloom in late May - June, flowers are red-lilac, lilac, lilac; "Catawbiense album" - blooms in late May - June, white flowers.
Hybrids of rhododendron Smirnov (cold resistance -26 °C). Reaches a height of 1.0 m:"Gabriel", "Beliefontaine", "Dorothy Swift", "Tut", "Lajka".
Hybrids of Yakushiman rhododendron (cold resistance of most varieties is -29 °C, but there are varieties that can withstand -32 °C). The height of the bushes does not exceed 1.0 m. The color of the flowers is pale pink, white and pink: “Appa N. Hall”, “Mist Maiden”, “Cap Janeck”.
Among the hybrid forms of Caucasian rhododendron, “Cunningham’s White” (cold resistance -26 °C) should be noted.
In recent years, varieties have appeared that have been bred using a very winter-hardy form of short-fruited rhododendron (R. brachycarpum var. tigerstedtii): “Pohjohlas Daughtef” - bush height 1 m, white flowers (cold resistance -34 °C);
"Elviira"– bush height 0.6 m, red flowers (-34 °C); “Hellikki” – bush height 1.5 m, flowers red-violet (-34 °C);
"Helsinki University"– bush height 2.0 m, white flowers (-39 °C);
"Mikkeli"– bush height 1.0 m, flowers white and pink (-37 °C);
"Peter Tigerstedf"– bush height 2.0 m, white flowers (-36 °C).
When purchasing varieties of evergreen large-leaved rhododendrons, you should remember that not all of them can withstand the winters of the middle zone. Most red-flowered varieties of European selection are characterized by the weakest winter hardiness, since the heat-loving tree rhododendron (Rh. arboreum), which grows in the Himalayas, was used in crosses to improve their decorative qualities.
Unpretentious species: Japanese rhododendron, yellow rhododendron, Schlippenbach rhododendron, Canadian rhododendron, Ledebur rhododendron. Even novice gardeners can grow them.
What varieties of rhododendrons are preferable? Of course, species (that is, growing independently in nature), as well as cold-resistant varieties and hybrids (that is, created through the efforts of breeders). The height of the bushes is from 1.5 to 2.5 m. Flowering occurs (depending on the variety) from the end of April to the end of July, and each plant blooms for about three weeks or longer. If you can choose plants with different flowering periods, then you don’t have to plant anything else - the beauty of your site will be ensured.
Most of all there are rhododendrons with lilac-pink and different shades of purple flowers. White flowers are also common. But a rather rare color is intense red, yellow or orange.
Reds. Albrecht, Elizabeth, Scarlett.
Pink. Panenka, Mark, Renata.
Lilac, purple. Blue Pit, Sapphire, Bourzault.
Yellow, nail-shaped, golden. Vlasta, Moravanka, Norma.
White. Jackson, Alena.
Rhododendrons are best planted in light shade from trees, although they also grow well in light. It is very fortunate that rhododendrons are located next to coniferous plants, which create a favorable habitat for them. Group plantings of rhododendrons, which can be monochromatic or composed of plants with different colors colors. The combination of tones creates a wonderful decorative effect.
Look at the photo - all varieties of rhododendrons go well with lilac, barberry, and Japanese quince:
Compositions from different varieties that have different appearance (height) of the bush and color of the flowers are good.
How to grow rhododendron flowers: planting location and soil preparation
The planting site for rhododendron flowers should be chosen taking into account biological features of this species, and the lighting conditions should be approximately the same as in the natural habitat. Rhododendrons require moist, well-drained, acidic (pH 4.5–5.8), humus-rich soils. They can grow on sandy and rocky places. On neutral soils, rhododendrons need to add acidic peat. Lime, dolomite, ash and other materials or fertilizers that shift the soil pH to the alkaline side should not enter the root feeding zone. They have a small superficial root system, so the roots are not buried when planting. When growing rhododendron, be sure to use tree trunk circles. Peat, pine litter, moss or dry leaves (preferably oak) are suitable as mulch. It is undesirable to use maple and horse chestnut leaves; they decompose quickly and have an alkaline reaction. Mulch helps retain moisture in the soil, protects roots from overheating in hot weather and from freezing in winter, suppresses the growth of weeds by rotting, and increases the humus content and acidity of the soil. Its layer should be at least 5 cm. You cannot dig up or loosen the soil under the bushes.
One of the conditions for growing rhododendron is that the root material should not dry out. On the other hand, excess moisture is harmful, so excess water should be removed. Since rhododendrons do not tolerate lime and chlorine, they should not be watered with chlorinated tap water or hard water containing a lot of lime (which produces sediment on dishes). They react very poorly to watering and spraying with hard (lime) water. First, their young roots will die, and then the entire plant will die. When watering and spraying, add citric acid (2 g per 10 l) or acetic acid (1 tablespoon of 9% table vinegar per 10 l) to hard water.
Before growing rhododendron, you need to choose the optimal location. Shrubs can be planted near other trees, for example, near spruce trees, whose roots “go” to great depths. Species with a root system close to the surface (willow) are not suitable. Their roots deprive the rhododendrons of moisture and nutrition, and they eventually die. In case of forced planting in close proximity to unwanted trees, the feeding zone of rhododendrons must be isolated from their roots using roofing felt, polyethylene or other materials. For rhododendrons, a place on the north side of the building is suitable, where the sun illuminates the plants early in the morning and in the afternoon.
When determining a planting site for growing and caring for rhododendron, care must be taken to protect the bushes from prevailing winds throughout the year, which is very important for the culture of rhododendrons. In open planting areas (especially evergreen species) in winter they suffer not so much from frost as from the drying effect of the wind. The exception is some deciduous rhododendrons: Japanese, yellow, Kamchatka, which grow well in open sunny areas. Plantings are especially undesirable near the corners of buildings, where there are strong drafts, as well as in the free spaces between buildings. Rhododendrons are a moisture-loving crop; they require soil and atmospheric moisture, especially during the period of budding and flowering.
Only species and varieties that have reliable winter hardiness are suitable for planting in the middle zone.
When choosing a place to plant a rhododendron, you should consider protecting it from direct midday sun, especially in early spring, when the evergreen foliage is already working hard, including intensively evaporating moisture, and the roots have not yet woken up and are not replenishing moisture. This leads to dehydration of the plant, and this primarily manifests itself on the leaves. In optimal light, rhododendron leaves are leathery, bright green, and glossy. If they become dull, dull, the midrib becomes yellowish, and brown spots appear on the edges of the leaves, then this is a signal that the lighting is too strong, causing the leaves to burn.
To avoid this, the planting site must be chosen so that the scattered shadow of another tree, for example, thuja or, falls on the rhododendrons from the south. It is best if the plants are illuminated by morning and evening sun, but not midday. It must be said that rhododendrons generally like to grow under the canopy of a pine forest (but not spruce!). Rhododendrons should be planted 1.5–2 m from the tree trunk on the north side. The tree that protects the rhododendron from the sun should be chosen with a deep root system, and it does not necessarily have to be pine. Oak is quite suitable, or even. But spruce is not suitable because it has a shallow root system, and since rhododendron’s root system is shallow (only 15–20 cm), the spruce will greatly inhibit it. For the same reason, maple, linden, poplar, elm, and birch are not suitable.
Evergreen rhododendrons do not like drafts and at the same time do not like stagnant air, so they should not be planted on the corners of buildings.
In addition, protection from north and northeast winds should be provided by planting curtain plants or using buildings. In winter, strong northern and northeastern winds during severe frosts increase transpiration (evaporation of moisture from the leaves), and the leaves dry out.
There are dwarf species of evergreen rhododendrons. To protect them from spring sunburn, it is enough to cover them with snow to a height of 30–40 cm. Tall shrubs (and rhododendrons generally reach a height of 1.5–2.5 m) can be covered with lutrasil or spunbond in several layers, or use an old sheet for this.
Deciduous and semi-deciduous rhododendrons, unlike evergreen ones, on the contrary, prefer a sunny place.
In addition, they need a rocky substrate, which is natural, since the plants come from the mountains. Drainage is also necessary, since these plants do not tolerate stagnant water at all, and therefore they should be planted on a hillock or artificial elevation.
As shown in the photo, for planting and caring for rhododendron, the soil must be prepared to a depth of 30–40 cm, that is, to double the height of the root ball:
It is also enough to make the diameter of the planting hole approximately 30–40 cm. The hole should be filled with moisture- and breathable soil, the easiest way to use peat; you can bring coniferous litter from a pine forest or sphagnum moss or heather soil from a cranberry bog. Any of these materials is diluted with soil removed from the planting hole in a 1:1 ratio. If you made a bulk elevation, then pour a hill about 50 cm high from a mixture of peat, sand and garden soil in a ratio of 3:1:2 onto a layer of pebbles or granite crushed stone. Rhododendrons grow exclusively on acidic soils (pH 4.5–5), so no ash, chalk or lime, or dolomite should be added under them. If the soil is not acidic enough, rhododendrons begin to develop chlorosis (the leaves turn from green and shiny to yellow-green with pale yellow veins). This is due to the fact that the formation of chlorophyll in the leaves is suspended due to the fact that magnesium and iron are in compounds inaccessible to plants and are not absorbed by them.
Planting and caring for rhododendron in open ground, feeding bushes
When planting, the root collar is left slightly above the soil level. The soil around the root collar must be thoroughly compacted. The plants are watered abundantly, the soil is mulched with peat, or finely ground tree bark, or fallen pine needles, or sawdust in a layer of 5–6 cm. In the spring, after 1–2 years, a bucket of rotted manure and peat or compost and peat is added to the soil in the tree trunk circle. and are buried to a shallow depth. In addition, mineral fertilizers are added in dry form: 1 tbsp. a spoonful of ammonium sulfate, superphosphate, potassium sulfate. All fertilizers are mixed with bedding.
Planting and caring for rhododendron in open ground can be carried out on a specially prepared high hill, since they do not tolerate soil with an alkaline reaction at all. But in open ground it is difficult to maintain a constant acidic environment. This can be avoided by building a special bed. To do this, soil is selected from a plot of the required area to a depth of 40 cm, then a drainage layer of large pebbles, crushed stone, broken brick is poured onto the bottom in a layer of at least 15 cm. Then acidic soil is poured onto the drainage with a layer of 25 cm, which consists of a mixture of crushed peat bark, half-rotted pine needles, pine needles. Mineral fertilizers are scattered on top - 1 tbsp per 1 m2. a spoonful of ammonium sulfate or urea, potassium sulfate and Intermag for flowers and ornamental crops. All this is mixed, leveled, watered and planted. Thus, the roots of the plants will constantly be in an acidic environment, and the rhododendron plants will grow and bloom successfully.
The first feeding of rhododendrons is carried out in early May: 1 tbsp is diluted per 10 liters of water. a spoonful of urea and potassium sulfate, spending 3 liters of solution per 1 bush.
The second feeding is carried out at the end of May: 1 tbsp is diluted per 10 liters of water. spoon of “Potassium humate” for garden flowers and potassium sulfate, spending 3–5 liters per bush.
The third feeding is carried out after the plant has flowered: dilute 1 tbsp per 10 liters of water. a spoonful of potassium sulfate and superphosphate.
There is no need to weed the weeds, because their germination will be prevented by mulch and increased acidity of the soil. They have practically no pests, and no diseases either. All that remains is watering, and here it is necessary to observe moderation.
Planting rhododendron flowers can be done as separate plants, but in such a way that they are not covered by other perennials or shrubs; moreover, crops that require different soil acidity should not be planted. But it is better to plant them as a whole group in one place, choosing the plants so that flowering moves from one to another. Then the blooming corner will delight you for about two to three months, and with such planting, care and shelter are much easier.
Rhododendrons look beautiful surrounded by stones; they love granite stones. Among the stones and rhododendrons, wintergreen or low-growing erica can be planted as a ground cover. Coniferous plants are also suitable, but not all of them. Spruce, for example, is not suitable, but pine is another matter. Pine, especially dwarf pine, mountain pine (it should be borne in mind that it grows greatly in width and, if planted incorrectly, will displace rhododendron), junipers, not too tall thujas (by the way, all types of thujas can be cut), any ferns, the German ostrich is especially beautiful ( which, by the way, also quickly takes over territory, and therefore its offspring must be torn out in time), hydrangeas of all types. Since rhododendrons and azaleas belong to the heather family, all other members of this family can also be included in the environment of rhododendrons: these are not only heathers, common heather, wintergreen, but also blueberries, lingonberries, and podbel.
How to care for rhododendron in the garden and how to protect it from diseases (with video)
When caring for rhododendrons, it is worth remembering that all these plants are moisture-loving, prefer partial shade and grow well only in acidic soil. It is strictly forbidden to add ash or any manure under them (with the exception of mullein), or feed plants with them - they will destroy them immediately and forever.
In the North-West, as a rule, with a good layer (10 cm) of mulch, rhododendrons do not require abundant watering, with the exception of the flowering period, when they should be watered heartily (10 liters per bush), so that the root ball is completely saturated with water, then the soil should always be moist at a depth of 20–30 cm. Before flowering, only in dry and hot weather should periodic spraying be done with slightly acidified water.
“Ecoberin” works very well on rhododendrons, both during freezing and sunburn. This drug, together with the “Healthy Garden” drug, should be sprayed prophylactically on rhododendrons, both deciduous and evergreen, in the fall before covering and in the spring immediately after removing the cover. To prepare the solution, it is enough to dissolve two or three grains of each of them in one liter of water.
If a burn or freezing does occur, then the dose of Ecoberin must be doubled or even tripled, and spraying will have to be repeated 3-4 times weekly.
Plants are not susceptible to common diseases that affect other plants. The only disease of rhododendron is root ball rot as a result of prolonged waterlogging of the soil or damage from frost or sun.
Of the pests, only the mower beetle is dangerous, which, feeding at night, hides in the soil during the day. It eats buds, buds, flowers and young shoots. To combat diseases and pests of rhododendrons, in the evening you should spray the plants with the biological product “Fitoverm” (or “IskraBio”) twice 2-3 weeks from the moment the buds appear. The soil under the plants can be watered with karbofos.
When caring for rhododendrons, do not forget to plant seeds; to do this, after flowering, carefully break out the wilted flowers.
The video “Caring for Rhododendron” shows basic agricultural techniques:
Preparing rhododendron for winter: how to cover the bush
To prepare rhododendrons for winter, young bushes with flower buds are easiest to bend to the ground. Large plants, both deciduous and evergreen, can be covered with spruce branches or white spunbond in several layers.
Before covering the rhododendron for the winter, you must first install arcs over them so that the material does not come into contact with the plants. At the same time, such a shelter will protect rhododendrons from sunburn. To protect the root system from freezing, cover the soil under the plants with a large layer (12–15 cm) of oak leaves or pine needles.
Do not rush to remove the shelter in the spring while there is a possibility of sunburn (March, April).
Propagation of rhododendron by seeds and layering
Rhododendrons are propagated by seeds and layering. Cuttings are usually used in nurseries.
All wild species can be propagated by seeds. To do this, you need to collect the seed pods in September–October. Optimal time Harvesting occurs when the top of the box has turned brown and the rest of it is still green. The boxes should be dried, the seeds should be poured out of them and stored in paper bags on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. Seeds are sown in March in a shallow container (7 cm high) in a 3:1 mixture of peat and sand. Since rhododendron seeds are small and they need light to germinate, they are not buried in the soil, but sown superficially. It is best to sow them on snow placed on top of the soil with a layer of about 1 cm. Then the container should be covered with film (it is more convenient to use food film, as it sticks to the edges of the container). After this, the containers should be placed on the windowsill.
Shoots appear in about two weeks if the seeds are fresh (collected last fall), and if they have been lying around for a year or two, then the germination may be delayed for a month. After emergence of shoots, the film should be removed. Watering the seedlings should be done with water from a melted ice cube using a syringe, the needle of which must be inserted into the soil. Seedlings should be protected from direct sunlight. At the stage of 2 true leaves, seedlings are planted in separate flower pots with a capacity of 0.5 liters, 2-3 plants at a time. The soil is prepared from a mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 3:1. 2 weeks after picking, you can gradually fertilize the plants with physiologically acidic fertilizer (1 teaspoon of azophosphate per 5 liters of water). The finished solution lasts indefinitely. Or, to get rid of fertilizing, you should immediately add half a teaspoon of the powder fraction of the AVA fertilizer to the pot with soil and mix thoroughly.
In the spring, after the end of frost, the pots can be buried in the ground on the site in a place that is illuminated by the sun only in the morning or evening. It is necessary to monitor the soil moisture in the pots and water the plant in a timely manner. For the first two years, pots with plants should be brought home and kept in a cold place, watered very sparingly with water from melted food ice. In subsequent years, young rhododendrons can be left to overwinter in the open ground directly in buried pots, but they must be covered with spruce branches or covered with dry leaves (preferably oak, but apple leaves are also possible), or covered with several layers of lutrasil attached to low arches.
Reproduction by layering significantly speeds up the onset of flowering. For layering, the lowest and longest flexible shoot with two-year-old wood is used. In the spring, you need to make a shallow cut in the bark 4 cm long along the bottom of the stem, remove all the leaves from the shoot and place the shoot in a ditch 5 cm deep, cover it with acidic, loose and moist soil. This place should always be moist; to do this, it can be mulched on top with sphagnum moss. There is one caveat: the end of the shoot is tied to a peg; it should stick out vertically 12 cm above the soil level. Rooting lasts 2–3 years. It can then be separated from the mother plant and replanted. It is best to do this in the spring of the third year.
Forming and pruning rhododendron
At a young age, such removal promotes the formation of new shoots and branches; later, during this operation, the plant forms more growing buds and feels better; vegetation begins faster in the spring.
Rhododendrons should be pruned to give the bush a certain shape and to remove old, damaged, dried and diseased branches. When pruning, you should remember that only individual branches of rhododendron are shortened. Heavy pruning significantly delays plant growth and first flowering. If there is a need to trim old bushes that have lost their shape, it is best to do this in mid-spring (late April). It is not recommended to break out the faded flowers of old branches.
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Rhododendron, planting and care in open ground - how to please wild rosemary?
An incredible rhododendron, planting and caring for it in the open ground are quite labor-intensive procedures, will delight the gardener with beautiful and healthy growth if you know how to grow it from cuttings, what to fertilize it in June and other months, what mineral fertilizers are best suited, what are the names of the most frost-resistant varieties, as well as many other features of the cultivation of this amazing shrub...
Cuttings of rhododendrons in summer and other methods of propagation
Rose tree (rhodon - rose, dendron - tree) is a rhododendron, planting and caring for it in the open ground is not difficult, but requires care and attention. Rhododendron can be creeping and tall, evergreen and deciduous, and it can be propagated different ways– cuttings and layering, grafting, dividing the bush, seeds. 
Seeds rhododendron is sown at the end of February - beginning of March in boxes on the surface of the soil, without burying, and a greenhouse made of film or glass is placed on top. The emerging sprouts are hardened off and transplanted into outdoor beds; rhododendron seedlings are well covered for the winter, and in the spring they are transplanted to a permanent place.
Cuttings rhododendrons in the summer occurs with semi-lignified tops of the bush - the apical bud and leaves are removed from the cut shoot, leaving only the top two, then the cuttings are soaked in a solution that stimulates root growth, and rooted in acidic soil consisting of peat, sand, pine needles.
By layering It is easiest to propagate rhododendron - at the beginning of summer, a branch of an adult bush is bent to the ground, pinned and sprinkled with soil in the middle part, having previously made a cut, the top is lifted and secured, and the area pressed to the ground is regularly watered. Already in the fall, you can cut off the mother branch and replant the resulting daughter rhododendron bush.
rhododendron seeds - pictured
Many people wonder whether it is possible to divide a rhododendron bush - yes, but this is a rather traumatic procedure for the plant. After digging up and dividing the mother bush, the resulting new plants are sent for growing until they become stronger, and the old bush will also require special care. Ledum specimens with a very weak root system are strengthened in a greenhouse.
Rhododendron - planting and care in open ground
You should know if you decide to grow rhododendron - planting and caring for this plant in open ground has its own characteristics. So, it is better to plant and replant rhododendron in the spring - in April-May, or in the fall, in September-November. Rose tree loves light fertile soil with high acidity (pH 4-5), with the addition of peat and soil from a coniferous forest, and also prefers partial shade, the northern side of the site, however, in strong shade it blooms poorly, and in the open sun regular spraying of the bush is necessary.
To plant rhododendron, dig a hole at least 40 cm deep - its diameter should be twice the diameter of the roots; peat mixed with coniferous soil, rotted manure, and loam is poured into the hole.
The root system of rhododendron is fibrous and superficial, so the soil under the bush is loosened with care. The flower does not tolerate drought well, so rhododendron is watered abundantly - the ground should be moistened by 20 cm, and before watering, the water is left to settle so that it becomes soft, or rain moisture is collected. It is useful to acidify the water by adding a little peat to it the day before watering. Rhododendron roots cannot be overwatered, they can rot, so even in hot weather there is no need to water more often than usual, but spraying the foliage is a necessary procedure.
The natural shape of the bushes does not require such a procedure as pruning rhododendron - you just need to remove dried branches, rejuvenate the bush from time to time and trim it to the desired height. Pruning is carried out in early March, when the rhododendron has not yet woken up, removing no more than a quarter of the bush, while sections of branches 2-4 cm thick are treated with garden pitch.
Rhododendrons bloom profusely every year, and in the intervals they “rest”, and in order to stimulate flowering in a “lean year”, faded inflorescences are immediately removed - then the plant directs nutrients to laying future flowers.
The varieties Vazeya, Japanese, Daurian, yellow bloom in about 5 years, and in Katevbinsky, Smirnov, sticky, Pontian, marigold, stiff-haired and some other varieties of rhododendron, flowering begins at 6–8 years.
At the beginning of spring, mineral fertilizers are needed for rhododendrons - for this, take two parts of ammonium sulfate, one part each of superphosphate and potassium, and apply at the rate of 80 g per square meter, and after flowering, in June, the next feeding is carried out, but the concentration of fertilizers is halved.
Rhododendron is fed with phosphorus and potassium in equal proportions in mid-summer at a rate of 40 g/m², this is done to stimulate the formation of flower buds and increase winter hardiness, but the abundance of nitrogen fertilizers during this period is unacceptable, as it leads to rapid development of shoots and interferes with the formation of flower buds. kidney
For the winter, rhododendron bushes are mulched with peat, and arched frames are installed above them, which are covered with agrofibre and polyethylene, which are completely closed with the onset of frost.
The most common fungal diseases of rhododendron are chlorosis, rust, spotting, gray mold. Spotting and rust on rhododendron leaves are combated with the help of copper-containing preparations, and you can get rid of chlorosis by adding iron chelate to the water when watering or by dissolving a little in the water yourself citric acid along with iron sulfate.
Pests - bedbugs, weevils - that attack rhododendron are dealt with using special fungicides and insecticides, for example, Thiram.
Rhododendron - winter-hardy varieties and their features
This alpine shrub, rhododendron, whose winter-hardy varieties are popular throughout Russia, tolerates cold well, but under natural conditions it overwinters under deep snow.
For example, rhododendron ferrugineum - rusty rhododendron - requires shelter in those regions where there is not enough snow, and pink rhododendron amoena winters well in temperate climate middle zone, but in especially frosty winters it also needs insulation. Rhododendron mix is frost-resistant. Cold resistance is inherent in evergreen varieties - Adams rhododendron, Daurian, Caucasian.
rusty rhododendron - pictured
Not only in Siberia, but also in the temperate climate of the middle zone, it is more reliable to grow winter-hardy varieties of rhododendron, since frost-resistant plants survive temperatures of -30ﹾC even without shelter. The most popular cold-resistant varieties of rhododendron with brightly colored inflorescences are:
- Grandiflorum – purple;
- Nova Zembla – bright red;
- Caractacus - dark pink ruffled flowers;
- Album Novum – pink;
- Pohjola's daughter - purple;
- Elite – contrasting colors, tolerates frost down to -35C
- The Hague - pink;
- The University of Helsinki is the most frost-resistant, wintering at -40C.
Your site is beautiful if it is decorated with rhododendron, planting and caring for it in the open ground may require additional effort, but it will be rewarded with delightful flowering.
The rhododendron plant comes from the Heather family. Translated, the name rhododendron means rose tree. This is a fairly well-known plant for growing at home, and the common people call it indoor rhododendron.
General information
The plant is distributed in the Northern Hemisphere. Less common in Japan, Asia, North America. In the Ukrainian expanses, this plant grows in the subalpine zone, and only Carpathian rhododendron. But only there they call it in their own way “Chervona Ruta”. This species is listed in the Red Book.
The rhododendron flower grows in nature both in groups and as single individuals. It is found on mountain slopes in swampy areas and in the tundra.
Rhododendron is an almost evergreen shrub plant or tree. The height of miniature species ranges from 10 cm to one meter, and there are exceptions whose height is about 30 meters.
The leaves of the plant vary in shape and size. The foliage is arranged in a spiral shape. The leaf shape is an oblong oval with slight pubescence. Inflorescences are presented in racemes or corymbs, sometimes singly. The corolla has a sunny or pinkish tint.
The fruits are formed in the form of capsules with many seeds. There are about 1,300 plant species in the natural environment.
Varieties and types
This is a deciduous species, reaching a height of up to 2 meters. The shoots of the plant are directed upward. The ellipse-shaped foliage is about 4 cm in length and up to 1.5 cm in width. The inflorescences are single, soft purple in color. Flowering begins in mid-summer, after the leaves have fully appeared.
Accelerating bush. The height of this species is about 3 meters. The foliage is oblong, about 12 cm long. The inflorescences are represented by up to 10 flowers in racemes and have a pleasant aroma. Flowering occurs at the end of spring.
This is an evergreen bush with many leaves, reaching a height of 4 meters, but to a greater extent the width of the bush exceeds its height. The shape of the leaf is in the form of an ellipse, about 15 cm long. There are up to 20 flowers in the racemes. The corolla of the flower is purple. Flowering begins at the end of spring.
The accelerating species is about two meters in height. The leaves are shaped like maple leaves and are found at the ends of the stems. The inflorescences are pale pink with splashes, the flower diameter is about 10 cm.
This is a bush, about 2 meters tall. The shape of the bush is decomposed. The foliage is elongated, about 10 cm in length, slightly pubescent. IN autumn period has a yellowish-red tint. The inflorescences are scarlet, sunny in color, about 8 cm in diameter with a pleasant aroma. Flowering begins in the last month of spring. Flowering duration is more than a month.
Quite common. Due to the abundance of flowers, leaves are almost completely invisible. Height is about one meter. Inflorescences are bell-shaped. The color of the flower is scarlet, yellow or pink.
Is not large sizes bush up to half a meter in height. Adults of the plant have a dark gray bark tint. The leaves of the species are elongated with a rounded end. Young individuals have an individually pleasant, but more pungent aroma.
The inflorescences of the species have a light pink tint and have no aroma. There are about 15 flowers in the racemes. Flowering lasts throughout the summer.
Height is about 1 meter 20 centimeters. With a brown tint to the bark. The shoots are more accelerating in nature.
The foliage is oblong and oval shaped. The inside of the leaf is covered with hairs. The flowers are clustered in corymbs of about 8 pieces. The diameter of the inflorescence is about 3 cm. The shade of the petals is light or pale pink. It blooms in spring and is a good honey plant. The hybrid species is quite demanding in care and planting.
Not a large shrub. The shoots are spreading. The foliage is alternate, about 8 cm long, the surface of the leaf is olive in color, and the inside is a less clear shade. Inflorescences on high stalks, about 5 flowers on one. After flowering, a fruit capsule with small seeds is formed. The aroma of the plant is similar to that of fresh strawberries.
Not volumetric tree shaped like a ball. The foliage is narrowed, dense, glossy on the outside. The leaves have a dark olive hue on the outside, and on the inside they have a chocolate hue with small fibers.
The inflorescences are about 7 cm in diameter. When they begin flowering, the petals have a pale pink tint, and by the end they acquire a rich white color. Flowering begins towards the end of spring.
Has a spherical bush. A hybrid plant from Rhododendron katevsbinsky. The species was developed in 1851. The height of the plant is about 3 meters. The foliage is medium sized and elliptical in shape. Inflorescences with a pink tint and purple spots. Flowering begins in late spring and lasts about a month.
Rhododendron planting and care
The planting location should be slightly shaded. Preferably the northern part. It is preferable to plant rhododendron in early spring, in the first months of spring.
Rhododendron is transplanted in the fall before the onset of frost. Also, replanting can be done at any necessary period, only a month before flowering, or after the plant has flowered in a few weeks.
Soil for rhododendrons
The soil for planting should be light, loose with a good drainage layer. It is important that the soil is acidic and sufficient quantity fertilizers High peat and loamy soil in a ratio of 8:3 are suitable.
It is necessary to avoid stagnation of moisture, otherwise the plant will die. The plant must be planted in a prepared hole about half a meter in diameter and the same depth.
To acidify the soil for rhododendrons. It is necessary to add processed sawdust from coniferous trees or rotted coniferous needles to the soil.
At home, you can check whether your soil needs acidification. To do this, you will need to pour boiling water over currant or cherry leaves, and when the water has cooled, throw in a little earth. If the water changes color to blue, then the soil needs acidification, if it is red, then it is normal. And if the color changes to green, then the soil is neutral.
Caring for the plant does not require special skills, you just need to loosen the soil and remove weeds in time.
Watering rhododendrons
It is preferable to provide moderate moisture to the plant. Water must be settled or, if possible, rainwater. The soil should be moist to 30 cm deep. You can determine whether watering is necessary by the appearance of the foliage; if they become faded and dull, then moisturizing is necessary.
Rhododendron loves fairly humidified air, about 65%, so it requires frequent spraying of the leaves.
Fertilizer for rhododendrons
The plant should be fertilized from early spring until flowering ends in mid-summer. Fertilize with cow liquid manure along with water in a ratio of 1:15. Before fertilizing, the plant must be watered.
The most practical fertilization option is mineral and organic complex fertilizers in early spring. During flowering with cow dung.
Autumn fertilizers for rhododendrons are necessary after flowering. Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are suitable for this.
Pruning rhododendrons
The plant needs to be trimmed if necessary to create the desired shape. Pruning is done in early spring, before the beginning of the growing season. Dry shoots are cut off and old branches, about 4 cm thick, are rejuvenated.
Plants that have not overwintered well or are outdated must be completely rejuvenated by cutting off all shoots at a height of about 30 cm from the ground.
Sheltering rhododendrons for the winter
It is necessary to cover the plant if you have hot and frosty winters. To do this, the bush is covered with dry leaves and sawdust. And the shoots themselves are covered with spruce branches and insulated with burlap.
Insulation must be removed after the snow melts in early spring.
Propagation of rhododendrons by cuttings
To do this, cut cuttings from adult large plants about 8 cm long. Place them in a growth stimulator for half a day. And then they are planted in a mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 3:1, then covered with cellophane, making a greenhouse.
Periodically opening for watering and ventilation. Rooting occurs up to 4.5 months. After rooting, the cuttings are transplanted into a mixture of peat and pine needles.
Reproduction of rhododendrons by layering
To do this, in the spring, dig a young shoot into a small hole about 16 cm deep and sprinkle it with soil, water it during the summer, and when rooting occurs, replant it separately.
Rhododendron propagation by seeds
The seeds must be sown in a container with prepared peat to a depth of about a centimeter. Cover the container with glass and periodically ventilate and moisten the soil. The temperature required for seed germination is about 15 degrees.
- Type: heather
- Flowering period: April May June
- Height: 0.3-1.5m
- Color: white, pink, lilac, red, yellow, violet
- perennial
- Winters
- Shade-loving
- Moisture-loving
It is difficult to imagine a suburban area without the usual permanent residents - peonies, roses, poppies, dahlias, decorating flower beds and flower beds with their lush caps throughout the summer. However, sometimes in the dachas of the middle zone and southern regions you can find an unusual beautiful shrub that resembles a rose. This is a rhododendron, a rather capricious heat-loving plant. Finding an approach to it is not easy, but growing and caring for rhododendrons over time for some lovers rare plants develops into a hobby - these magnificent flowers are so beautiful and exquisite.
Like most lush flowering crops, rhododendron is rarely found in Russian wildlife, and grows exclusively under the supervision of gardeners.
Many species take root and feel great only in southern latitudes, so they can be safely grown in the Crimea, Krasnodar Territory or Stavropol Territory. However, some varieties, for example, Daursky or Canadian, develop well in temperate climates, so if you live in the Moscow region, the Urals, or even in the Siberian outback, rhododendron can also decorate your summer cottage with its magnificent blooms.
Literally translated from Latin, “rhododendron” means “rose tree” - and indeed, in its appearance the plant is very similar to a rose, although it belongs not to the Rosaceae, but to the heathers
You are certainly familiar with one of the types of rhododendron - this is the well-known indoor azalea, often decorating the window sills of city apartments. It is distinguished by lush flowering and a variety of shades.
It is impossible to imagine how the relatives of this small plant can reach 25-30 meters in height, although in fact in the Himalayas, Japan, and North America some species grow to such gigantic sizes.
There are also low rhododendrons, which are individual bushes or creeping shrubs that feel comfortable at the foot of mountains and in coastal sea areas.
Mountain varieties are small in size and ideal for organizing alpine slides. For example, the Kamchatka rhododendron is unpretentious, grows only 35-40 cm in height and has a bright pink hue.
Among annuals and perennials (there are about 3 thousand species in total), you can choose a variety whose characteristics are suitable for growing in a particular region.
If you need a special shade - reddish, purple, white or yellow - this will also not be a problem, since the color palette of crops is almost limitless. The flowering of the crop begins in early spring and continues throughout the warm period.
Featuring a luxurious color palette garden azalea can be combined with various types of flowering crops and used for growing in columbariums, rock gardens, multi-tiered flower beds
Planting rhododendrons: time, soil, lighting
Following general recommendations, planting can be done both in autumn and spring, that is, in a growing season convenient for you, excluding flowering time and a short period after flowering - about 10 days. However, experienced gardeners still insist on spring planting, which lasts, depending on the region, from April to May 10-15.
Varieties planted earlier than this period are already covered in thick color by the May holidays - against the backdrop of barely emerging foliage and fresh herbal greenery, they look very impressive.
One of the early flowering rhododendrons is the variety P.J. Mezitt is a lush plant with pink-lilac buds. The beginning of its flowering occurs in the last ten days of April - the first days of May
It is important to choose the right planting location, since in bright sun the plant will feel uncomfortable, and in a completely dark place it will not produce lush flowering.
It is best to place a flower bed with rhododendrons on the north side of the building, in a semi-shaded area, so that at noon, when Sun rays reach maximum strength, the plant was completely closed from them.
Not only the walls of a building, but also a fence or tall trees can serve as a shade barrier for a flower garden. Rhododendron gets along well with trees whose roots go deep into the soil and do not interfere with the development of the plant - oaks, larches, spruce trees, as well as fruit trees - pears or apple trees
Flowers absolutely cannot tolerate alkaline or neutral soil - it must be acidic, rich in humus, well aerated, without lime impurities. One of the best growing materials is a mixture of peat and clay.
Rhododendron is planted in the following order:
- dig holes that are shallow (35-40 cm) and wide enough (55-60 cm);
- the lower part is drained with a sand and pebble layer (10-15 cm);
- they are covered with a mixture of loam and peat (high-moor or sphagnum, with low acidity), and there should be about 2 times more peat;
- lightly compact the soil inside the hole and make a hole in it the size of an earthen ball of a seedling;
- lower the roots of the seedling into the hole and fill it with soil mixture up to the very root neck, which as a result should be flush with the soil surface;
- water the plant abundantly if the soil is dry;
- mulching is carried out (to a depth of 5-7 cm), for which peat, moss, rotted pine needles, leaves and crushed oak bark are suitable.
In order for the plant to better take root in a new place, before planting, thoroughly soak the roots with water - lower the seedlings into a container of water until air bubbles stop appearing on the surface.
Approximate rhododendron planting scheme: 1 – garden soil; 2 – drainage; 3 – soil mixture of peat, clay or loam; 4 – layer of pine needles
There is another trick that promotes better development of the root system. Cut off the most luxuriant buds of a flowering plant - this way the seedling will spend more energy on rooting. Planting and further care of rhododendrons - important stages, following which, you will achieve amazing results.
It is better to start decorating the planted bush in a couple of weeks - after it is completely rooted. You can give the plant a certain shape and decorate the base depending on the style landscape design your site
Nuances of flower care
The standards for proper care of flowering shrubs do not differ from generally accepted standards: it is necessary to follow the watering regime, perform weeding and pruning in a timely manner, feed the plant with suitable minerals and ensure that pests do not infest.
There are also subtleties, for example, a careful approach when loosening. The roots of the plant are very close to the surface, so you need to loosen the soil very carefully, and you should not dig at all. When removing weeds, never use a hoe or garden knife; you can only do it manually.
Irrigation mode and features
Rhododendron's relationship with moisture is very interesting. On the one hand, it absolutely cannot tolerate waterlogging, on the other hand, it requires constant spraying and watering with specially prepared water.
Even when choosing a place for planting, check whether groundwater is close to the surface. The fact is that with a large amount of moisture in the soil, the roots will simply “choke” and the plant will die. That is why a drainage layer is needed to drain excess water.
It is especially important to follow the watering and atmospheric irrigation regime during the development of buds and flowering - the better the watering, the brighter and more magnificent the inflorescences will be
Watering is carried out regularly, after acidifying the water - for this, 2-3 handfuls of sphagnum peat are placed in a container with water 12-20 hours before watering. It is better not to use tap water; in extreme cases, it must be allowed to stand. Perfect option - rain collections. The regularity of watering depends on the condition of the plant: as soon as the leaves have lost their glossy shine and changed turgor, it’s time to water.
When is the best time to prune a plant?
The concept of pruning is very conditional. Usually the plant develops evenly and forms a profusely flowering bush. correct form, so lovers of lush flower beds do not need to prune. But sometimes it is necessary to thin out the bush, make it a little lower, or simply rejuvenate it.
Pruning is carried out in early spring, before sap flow begins. Select strong, thick branches with a diameter of 3-4 cm, carefully cut off the ends with garden shears and treat the cuts with a specially prepared garden varnish or resin. In about a month, the renewal process will begin, continuing throughout the year - new shoots will hatch and dormant buds will begin to develop.
Particular skill is required when pruning frozen or old bushes: thick branches should be cut at a distance of 35-40 cm from the ground alternately for 2 years: part this year, the second next year
Rhododendrons are characterized by uneven flowering. If this year they pleased you with a particularly wild color, expect more modest results next year. To prevent this from happening, remove faded buds immediately after flowering, and then the plant will have enough strength to gain as many buds as possible in the second year.
Protection from pests and diseases
Branched bushes with dense foliage and many buds are an excellent habitat for insects, half of which can destroy the beauty you have grown within a couple of weeks, so a number of measures must be taken to protect the bush.
Thick trunks and branches are a favorite place for mollusks. Slugs and snails are collected by hand. Beware of scale insects, bedbugs, spider mites, rhododendron flies, mealyworms. Treat stems and branches with 8% fungicide "Tiram", "Karbofos" helps well.
It is more difficult to remove bedbugs, ticks, and especially weevils, to get rid of which diazonin is used. Remember, in order to say goodbye to a harmful guest forever, it is necessary to treat not only the plant itself, but also the top layer of soil around it
Along with insect pests, rhododendrons are threatened by fungal diseases - rust, chlorosis, spotting. The reason lies in insufficient aeration and non-compliance with the irrigation regime. Yellowness resulting from chlorosis is treated with an iron chelate solution. If rot appears, the affected shoots should be cut off completely. For prevention, seasonal treatment is carried out Bordeaux mixture late autumn or early April.
Feeding and choice of fertilizers
It is necessary to start feeding rhododendrons from planting and throughout the entire flowering period. To preserve the acidic environment important for the culture, superphosphate, potassium sulfate, potassium nitrate, magnesium or calcium sulfate, and ammonium are used, but in minimal concentrations.
Early spring feeding consists of fertilizers containing nitrogen (40-50 g of magnesium or ammonium sulfate per 1 cubic meter of liquid); it is also relevant in the period after flowering. In July, the dose of fertilizer should be reduced to 20 g.
The ideal fertilizer for rhododendrons is a liquid solution. natural fertilizers, such as horn meal or cow dung. Rotted manure is diluted with water (1 part fertilizer to 15 parts water), left for 3-4 days and used during irrigation.
1-2 years after planting, it is necessary to update the top layer of soil. To do this, mix peat in equal parts with humus or compost and sprinkle the area around the roots. Along with natural ingredients, superphosphate, potassium sulfate or ammonium are added to the bedding (dry substances - 1 tablespoon each). Agricola can be used as a dry powder for flowering garden plants. Remember that only thoroughly watered bushes need to be fertilized.
Reproduction methods - which one to choose
Let's look at the three most successful ways to propagate rhododendron in garden conditions:
- seeds;
- cuttings;
- layering.
Growing plants from seeds is a long and labor-intensive task. Dry, healthy seeds are sown in pots or boxes with moist peat, a little sand is added, covered with glass caps and placed in a well-lit place. Within a month, it is necessary to moisten the soil and remove condensation from the glass.
The seedlings that appear after 4 weeks are planted in a greenhouse with a cool climate according to a 2 x 3 cm pattern. The seedlings will grow for a very long time, and only after 6-7 years you will see the first flowering
Not all gardeners can tolerate propagation by cuttings either. It is necessary to take shoots that are half woody and cut several cuttings about 7-8 cm long from them.
The leaves are removed from the bottom, and the treated end is placed in a container with heteroauxin, a growth stimulator, where it is kept for 12-15 hours.
Then they are placed in peat soil and covered, as is the case with seeds. Depending on the variety, the cuttings will take root in 2-4 months, after which they are transplanted into boxes with peat-coniferous soil and taken out to a cool greenhouse. The optimal temperature is 10ºС. They are planted in the spring along with other flowers, right in boxes, and only after a couple of years can they be transplanted to the main place of growth.
Most convenient option reproduction - pinning layering. They take a flexible lower shoot, dig a groove 12-15 cm deep near it, and place the shoot in this groove.
To prevent it from rising, the middle part of the stem is pinned and peat is sprinkled on top. The upper part must be brought out and tied to a support - a wooden peg stuck into the ground
The cuttings are cared for in the same way as the entire bush - watered and sprayed. When it takes root (late autumn or spring), it is carefully separated, dug up and transplanted to a place of permanent growth. This method is especially good for propagating deciduous rhododendrons.
The most popular garden varieties
IN coniferous garden A 2-3 meter Daurian rhododendron will get along well. It is distinguished by abundant flowering buds reaching a diameter of 4 cm.
If the warm season drags on, then the Daursky variety will definitely please you with repeated autumn flowering, and next spring the winter-hardy plant will bloom as usual
Adams' rhododendron is an eastern guest, accustomed to rocky mountain soils.
A beautiful plant with soft pink flowers grows up to one and a half meters in height. It is rare in our country, but in Buryatia it is listed in the Red Book
The low creeping Caucasian rhododendron is a real find for rock gardens.
The petals of the inflorescences of the Caucasian rhododendron are distinguished by an unusual soft yellow or cream shade, which will wonderfully dilute the more saturated, rich colors of other varieties
Japanese rhododendron is a magnificent deciduous variety with flamingo-colored buds.
Japanese rhododendrons with delightful flowers and picturesque foliage that turns red in autumn are unpretentious, winter-hardy and reproduce well in any way - an excellent option for growing in central Russia
And finally, a short video about how to achieve lush flowering of rhododendrons.