Sanding parquet with your own hands - stages of work. Sanding parquet Do-it-yourself sanding of a new parquet floor

High-quality wood parquet is very reliable coverage. But even with the most careful and careful care, the surface becomes uneven over time and visible defects appear on it. By correctly following the installation technology, owners of apartments and houses have every chance to carry out grinding with their own hands.

What's happened?

Laying the parquet itself is only the first step to obtain high-quality coating floor. To obtain desired effect, it is necessary to do a certain number of activities, for example, level the surface, sand and varnish. The same actions are taken when restoring old parquet.

Sanding parquet with your own hands involves eliminating defects on the floor covering that contribute to its destruction. For this reason, wood floors need to be restored periodically.

This type of repair helps:

  • remove small flaws;
  • free the floor from the old layer of varnish;

  • eliminate the creaking of loose planks;
  • smooth out height differences between parquet planks.

When laying a new coating, the surface must first be cleaned. After sanding, the coating becomes smooth and is less susceptible to damage.

Sanding parquet yourself may not help in some situations when:

  • the material dried out and the gaps between the slats became several millimeters;
  • flooring swollen with moisture;

  • the main part of the floor is damaged by insects;
  • floor surface with large dents and holes.

As a rule, such defects appear in cases where the laying of parquet boards and their operation were incorrect.

When is it used?

Restoration of parquet flooring consists of repairs to restore the old wooden flooring. The main task in parquet repair is to eliminate defects and improve appearance floor. You can repair and renew the surface yourself.

Let's look at the most common defects that require floor sanding.

  • Crevices. The main factor in the formation of cracks is the loosening of parquet boards. Removing cracks is a difficult task because they appear throughout the entire coverage area. Small cracks can be sealed with putty. When visible cracks form in the middle of the planks and the surface is scratched, then cosmetic repairs can't get by here. If the parquet is not detached from the base, then it is necessary to restore the floor covering.

Otherwise, later the parquet will have to be removed and laid again. The restoration takes place in the following stages: sanding, sanding, filling and filling of uneven areas, sanding the putty floor, final finishing.

  • Creak. One of the possible causes of floor squeaking may be planks that are not connected to each other, which make the sound when walking. Also, the flooring creaks when the parquet peels off from the base. One more common cause A squeaky floor may be due to the lack of a seam between the parquet and the wall. To get rid of this unpleasant sound– part of the parquet is cut off to provide a gap.

  • Swollen slats. Such problems sometimes appear indoors. The reason for the swollen coating may be a violation of the installation technology, when when laying the floor they forget to leave gaps from each wall. If the parquet has risen due to contact with water, then first remove the damaged planks and dry the surface. Next, slightly increase the air temperature in the room. When the surface is completely dry, use a vacuum cleaner to clean out any holes that appear. After this, new planks are installed, sanded and coated with varnish or oil.

  • Scratches. Typically, scratches on such surfaces are caused by shoes with sharp heels and rearrangement of furniture. When the parquet is made from hardwood and with reliable protective coating, then it is more resistant to mechanical damage.

To care for parquet floors, you can purchase special oil. First, remove dust from the parquet, carry out wet cleaning, then apply oil. Cannot be applied thick layer oil so that the floor does not stick. Initially, such a coating will get dirty faster, but after a while it will become easier to care for the floor.

Features of the technology

To restore parquet with your own hands, you must carefully follow the installation technology. The design of this floor covering makes it possible not only to remove local defects, but also to carry out a complete restoration.

The process of renewing parquet consists of: preparatory stage, deep or coarse grinding, fine processing, filling imperfections and final grinding. Let's study the stages in more detail

  • Preparatory stage. After installation, it is important to carefully inspect the parquet and identify damage such as scratches and dents. These defects can be eliminated using putty or special glue. Sanding old wood is a more labor-intensive task, because every part must be checked for integrity. Damaged material is replaced. When the work is completed, the coating is vacuumed and wiped.

  • Rough grinding. Initially, the downforce of the drum is adjusted. These manipulations are performed using a screw and wheel balancing. After completing the work, it is recommended to go through inaccessible places with a grinder.

  • Fine grinding. For these works you need a flat sander. It rids the surface of defects.
  • Puttying. Defects in the restored coating are restored using colored putty with imitation wood. If you purchase a special putty liquid, you can make the mixture yourself. After applying this mixture, the floor must dry for at least 24 hours.

  • Final sanding. To remove excess putty, the surface is sanded with a surface grinder filled with sandpaper. Do this only when the putty has completely hardened.

Tools and materials

To sand parquet with your own hands you need special tools and additional consumables:

  • Parquet sanding machine. A grinder is a fairly expensive tool; you can rent it in specialized stores;
  • Angle grinder. Most often this tool is called a grinder. The grinder is used for various works, including sanding wood flooring with it. To remove the old layer of varnish, you need to use a petal nozzle. This tool is convenient for sanding parquet, but when using an angle grinder, a lot of dust and sawdust appears.

  • Manual cycle. Useful for scraping parquet in hard-to-reach places. An iron plate is attached to the handle of the instrument. She removes the previous layer of varnish, but this is a difficult job;
  • Emery cloth. They are cut to the length and width of the shoe, attached to the sole and thus the floor is rubbed. This process is also not easy, but quite feasible;
  • Sandpaper. For parquet you will need paper with a grain size of 60 to 120;

  • Putty for filling cracks. It must be selected in a color that matches the shade of the wood;
  • Varnish or oil High Quality;
  • Gel. This is a white mass that helps fill in small irregularities. Gel is a decorative technique and is not an additional layer to provide wear resistance or moisture resistance;

  • Glue. In case some wood boards are falling through or are loose, it is possible to use a special parquet adhesive. In the place where the boards sag, holes are made, then these holes are filled with a syringe;
  • Regenerating paste. It is applied with a spatula and has a thick structure. You can find a large color palette on sale, so choosing the right shade will not be difficult. The paste dries in less than a day. After applying the paste, the desired areas are sanded and varnished;
  • Rollers and brushes for covering the surface with varnish or oil;

  • Spatulas for applying putty;
  • Vacuum cleaner and other consumables: screwdriver, scissors.

Epoxy resin, which itself is colorless, needs to be tinted. Sometimes, to hide the seams from epoxy resin, it is recommended to add dye to it. Resin, unlike epoxy glue, is more elastic, and it can also be added to various hardeners to obtain the desired composition.

Coating preparation

It is recommended to start the process of preparing the surface for sanding by removing the furniture, removing the baseboard and removing the old coating from the door sills. Next, you need to study the flooring to see the main shortcomings. The floors in the apartment must be washed from dust and dirt, nails and screws must be removed. Sanding is a dusty job, so it is advisable to cover windows and doors.

Features of the process at home

To properly sand floors with your own hands, you need to follow the step-by-step instructions. Simple manipulations Using a sander makes it possible to partially remove imperfections from coated parquet. Work on removing paint and varnish begins with treating identified floor defects.

Looping

To recycle parquet means to renew the old floor covering. It is produced in several stages, which involve removing the old layer of wood surface. The final stage is fine grinding, which will help to obtain a smooth canvas for subsequent coating with varnish or wax.

For work they use a certain tool and material.

Do-it-yourself floor scraping begins with initial sanding. Its task is to remove the surface layer - varnish and unevenness. Most often, this is done with sandpaper with a grain size of 40 to 80. If the parquet is too old and very worn, then these steps must be done twice.

Then the defects are covered with putty or a mixture prepared from a mixture of PVA glue and wood dust. Before starting sanding, you should pay attention to the joints of the planks; visible gaps need to be sealed. In addition, after the work of the cycles there are unevenness, it is important to smooth them out by fine grinding. After the putty has dried, the parquet is sanded with sandpaper with a grain size of 150 to 240 until a smooth surface is obtained.

Flooring scraping is usually carried out using the following methods:

  • The cycle is real. Remove the surface layer using a scraper;
  • Semi-automatic looping. When grinding occurs with certain manual materials;

  • Semi-professional scraping. Renew the parquet with a professional sander.

Self-scraping takes quite a few hours. For this you will need a scraper or blade. The blades should be 0.1-0.2 cm wider than the strip to prevent the appearance of new flaws and spoil the joints.

The top layer is looped from window to door. It is advisable to moisten the parquet first; wetted wood is easier to process. It is important to loop several planks at once. It is better to walk around the baseboards with a grinder.

When the entire coating has been sanded, visible defects should be covered up. Then we sand with fine sandpaper to obtain a perfectly smooth floor.

Using tools, the damaged coating layer is removed at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees. The machine is applied to the parquet only after first turning it on; the same pressure is required for scraping over the entire surface.

Grinding differs from scraping in that when grinding the damaged layer is not cut off, but is combed off using an abrasive material. Grinding machines have become more widespread than hand scraping, so this process began to be called parquet sanding.

Putty

Putty is universal material in the form of a paste, applied to the surface before coating with varnish or oil. It evens out floors and masks surface imperfections.

Often the question arises about the correct pronunciation of this word– putty or putty. Both pronunciations are believed to be correct.

Putty consists of fillers, binders and coloring pigments. Putties are divided into cement, gypsum and polymer.

How to seal cracks in the floor depends on many factors, for example, the type of wood, the size of the holes and the choice of material for the final coating. It is recommended to purchase putty and a means for finishing from the same manufacturer.

Before you start puttingtying the floor covering, you need to remove the dust. After this, putty is applied along the entire perimeter of the floor.

To apply putty, you can use special stainless spatulas, as well as rubber and wooden spatulas. Putty is applied thin layer. If it turns out that one layer is not enough, then after it dries, it is worth applying another layer. How much putty will be used depends on the condition of the parquet.

Quite often, in order to save the budget, it is common to putty parquet using self-made solutions. This solution allows you to make required composition for a specific situation.

Final work

The final stage is careful sanding and polishing of the parquet. When the putty mixture has completely hardened, use a fine abrasive to eliminate imperfections. Next, the floors are vacuumed and coated with varnish or oil.

You need to choose a polish based on the original condition of the parquet boards. Polishing agents are divided into matte, semi-gloss and glossy based on surface type. According to the type of application, manual and machine polishing are distinguished.

One of good funds To give the parquet gloss and beauty, mastic is considered. It consists of wax and polymers. After application appears protective layer. Mastic can be colorless, as well as with a tint. Colorless gives the floor a beautiful shine, colored gives a certain shade. Based on its composition, mastic is divided into water-soluble, water-emulsion, wax and turpentine.

  • Water-based is suitable for all types of parquet. It is applied to a clean floor and after some time I begin to rub the parquet with a rag or brush;
  • Water-soluble is excellent for oak flooring. Apply it with a brush, after drying, remove the remaining part of the product with a soft sponge and leave the floor to dry. Then cover with another layer. After the parquet has dried, it should be polished;

  • Wax is optimal for products made of ash and pine. This mastic is applied with a special brush to a floor that has been previously cleaned of dust;
  • Turpentine mastic is used for beech and birch coatings. This mastic contains no water. It is recommended to apply it in two layers.

Varnish coating

Varnishing parquet flooring is an excellent option to preserve the longevity of parquet flooring. In this way, the worn surface is restored and the wood pattern is preserved. In addition, varnish strengthens and protects the surface.

Applying varnish with your own hands is a responsible process. Initially, you need to check that everything necessary tools were in stock.

Before you start varnishing the surface, it is important to mix the jar of varnish well. The varnish is applied in two layers. Begin the process of applying the material from window to door. After two hours, a second layer is applied across the previous one. It is important to leave a small passage from the room, due to the fact that the varnish takes several days to a week to dry.

There are several types of parquet varnishes: water-based, alkyd, polyurethane and urethane-alkyd. The most durable are polyurethane varnishes. And the safest ones are water ones.

Urethane-alkyd and alkyd varnishes are more economical and stable, but are toxic and have a strong odor.

If the parquet has already been varnished, then it is better to completely remove the varnish from it. If it has just become cloudier, then it is enough to sand its surface and coat it with polyurethane varnish.

Nowadays, whitening the floor has become popular.

The tinting composition is coated in several layers until the desired shade. The surface is first prepared by grinding and removing dust.

Don't forget about baseboards either. In this case, they need to change color, like the rest of the parquet.

Whitening is carried out using varnish or oil.

Often people are faced with the question of whether it is possible to paint such a coating. This is quite possible, because parquet is made of wood, and it is of very high quality.

Typically, painting involves applying a stain to the floors to highlight the texture of the material and several coats of varnish. This way the tree retains its pattern, which looks very beautiful. Sometimes there are cases where parquet must match color scheme interior, and it is necessary to remove the previous coating and install a new one, or transform it with paint.

Consequently, the paint color can be absolutely any depending on the wishes and design of the room.

Introduction

The parquet has to be renewed every 5 years. Of course, this can be done more often, it all depends on the wear of the floor and the condition of the varnish coating of the parquet.

Sanding parquet - five stages

Restoration and polishing of parquet includes the following 5 stages:

  • Preparing parquet for sanding;
  • Rough sanding of parquet;
  • Finish sanding of parquet;
  • Parquet putty;
  • Varnishing of parquet.

Let's go through all the stages of parquet sanding in more detail.

Preparing parquet for sanding

Before sanding, you need to repair the parquet. To begin, completely empty the room of furniture. Carefully examine the parquet flooring. Tap each plank. If, when tapping, individual planks make a dull sound, it means that they have come unstuck from the base and voids have formed under them. Such strips need to be drilled, then pumped into the hole with a construction syringe. parquet glue, put a load on the floor (press it down with something) and let it dry.

Don't forget to clean the room; if there are paint stains or other old stains on the old varnish, clean them with a scraper so that the sanding paper does not clog in the future. Remove all nails and screws from the hardwood floor (if there are any).

Tools and material for sanding parquet

To sand parquet you will need tools for parquet work:

  • Sanding machine, or officially PShM, parquet- Sander. The instrument is expensive, but it is quite possible to rent it. Needed for sanding the main floor area.
  • Manual belt or disc sander. If you don’t have it, you can use a grinder, otherwise an angle grinder or an angle grinder. This tool is needed for sanding corners and floor-to-wall junctions.
  • Manual cycle. Useful for cleaning parquet in very hard-to-reach places, for example under a radiator.
  • Ribbons sandpaper. The grain size of the skin is indicated by numbers. The higher the number, the finer the grit of the sandpaper. You will need sandpaper No. 40;60;80;120.
  • Wood putty, for sealing cracks and holes in parquet;
  • High-quality varnish for parquet;
  • Vacuum cleaner for room cleaning, small hand tool(scissors, screwdriver, rags, etc.)

After preparing the room, tools and material, you can begin sanding the parquet.

Rough sanding of parquet

For rough sanding of parquet you will need a parquet sanding machine. belt type. For rough sanding, use #40 sandpaper. The grinding area of ​​this machine is 10-12 cm away from the wall.

At the walls of the room, along the perimeter and in the corners, sanding is done with hand-held disc or belt sanders.

Important! Do not use hand sanders to sand the underlying floor surface. The high speed of manual machines will lead to the formation of holes and irregularities.

The first rough sanding is done with #40 sandpaper. The purpose of this sanding is to remove old varnish, floor dirt and level the floor. The parquet is sanded first along the room, then across it. When sanding, carefully monitor the condition of the skin. Worn sandpaper can burn the parquet, leaving unpleasant dark spots on it.

After rough sanding the parquet, its unevenness should not exceed 2 mm per length of the 3 meter rule established on the floor.

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After sanding the parquet with sandpaper No. 40, nicks and scratches will remain on the parquet. This is fine. These scratches are removed by the following sandings, using sandpaper No. 60, then No. 80.

If the parquet is laid using the deck method (parallel to the walls), then this stage of sanding the parquet must be done along the laying line.

When laying parquet with a herringbone pattern, the parquet is sanded diagonally.

This grinding should ensure that the unevenness of the floor does not exceed 1 mm per length of the two-meter rule

Parquet putty

The parquet is puttyed after sanding with sandpaper No. 80. The color of the putty is selected according to the texture and color of the wood. You need to use acrylic putty on water based or parquet varnish, mixed with sawdust from your parquet.

When puttying, the gaps between the planks are sealed. A metal spatula is used. The putty is applied between the seams, herringbone in relation to the seams between the planks.

Finish sanding of parquet

  • After puttying, the parquet is finished sanded. For it you need to use sandpaper No. 120. You also need to release the pressure of the drum on the floor. This is done with a special adjusting screw on the PShM.
  • The direction of sanding is also carried out in the direction of laying the planks, along when laying decks and diagonally if the parquet is laid in a herringbone pattern. The quality of the final grinding is checked by hand. The floor must be absolutely smooth.
  • Sanding of the parquet is completed by thoroughly cleaning and removing dust from the floor using a vacuum cleaner.
  • The complete grinding process takes 5-6 hours.

After sanding, the parquet is varnished

The room before varnishing should be 22-24 °C, all drafts should be eliminated.

Parquet is varnished in several layers

  • The first layer is primer;
  • Next are three layers of varnish;
  • At the end is a glossy fixing gel.

Between each coat of varnish, the surface is sanded with a R-220 diamond mesh.

Photo album "Sanding parquet"

Particularly parquet. Although parquet is durable and unpretentious, periodically refreshing its surface does not hurt.

Tools for sanding parquet with your own hands

Hand grinding tools and equipment

The machine grinding method is the fastest and most effective, but too expensive. Therefore, if you don’t have enough money to hire equipment, you can solve the issue of floor scraping using a manual scraper.

On wooden handle This tool is secured with a metal plate, sharpened on one side and serrated on the other. This makes it convenient to cut off a layer of old varnish, but your hand gets tired quickly, and the short handle of the cycle does not allow you to take a comfortable position for working. Therefore, it is better to carry out grinding in an automated way, using a manual scraper only in those corners that are difficult to process with a grinder.

Among the advantages of a manual scraper are the absence of dust and the ability to remove a good layer of wood from the surface. Another way without special costs sand the floor using an emery cloth. It is carefully cut to fit the foot and attached to the shoe sole, which is used to wipe down the floor. This is also quite labor-intensive, but quite acceptable method.

Grinding machines - types, tasks

Full scraping is carried out in several stages and each of them requires a certain type of devices and equipment. Let's look at them:

  • PSHMBT - drum-type parquet sanding machine - is used for deep processing of any type of wooden surfaces. In the territory former USSR Such machines are produced in the Russian Federation and Ukraine. The device is equipped with a drum and a pump, which collects all waste generated during operation into a special collection bag. Domestic grinders have significant drawback– the presence of rubber, which is glued to the drum part. If the abrasive is clamped weakly or the machine encounters a nail protruding from the floor, the rubber turns out to be the weakest point, which is damaged first. The cost of equipment is from $1,300 and above.
  • PShM – surface grinders equipped with 1 or 3 discs. The Germans are considered the leaders in the production of such machines; their Lagler Trio costs about 10 thousand dollars, and such expenses are justified. PShM is used for sanding floors made of solid boards, preparing the floor for tinting or tinting, interlayer polishing for varnishing, and for applying oil. Typically, such equipment is purchased for professional activity construction and repair companies. Imported PSMs are capable of demonstrating filigree work in the process.
  • The boot is an additional tool for grinding hard-to-reach areas. The boot-shaped attachment allows you to cycle wooden surface in corners, under radiators, along the edges around the perimeter. The unification of such machines allows the use of parts different manufacturers and change abrasive attachments. The boots are equipped with bags for collecting dust and waste. Such machines are produced both in the territory of the former USSR and in Germany.
  • An industrial dust collector is a heavy-duty piece of equipment that works on the principle of a vacuum cleaner. The surface after sanding is covered with a layer of dust, which must be removed using industrial machines, otherwise varnishing will become impossible. A layer of varnish or other tinting agent will not be able to spread evenly over untreated wood.
List of additional tools:
  • scissors for cutting emery cloth and wrenches for fixing abrasive materials on the drum;
  • sandpaper (used as a consumable material. Depending on the stage of sanding, you will need a cloth of varying degrees of grain size - from 60 to 120.);
  • putty (selected according to a color close to wood, or it can be made from a liquid component and sawdust the smallest fraction, scraping waste.);
  • varnish (oil) at the rate of 5 kg per ten square meters. We recommend paying attention to Fobro, Resident, LOBA, Flow and other manufacturers;
  • rollers and brushes for uniform coating of the surface with varnish (oil);
  • spatulas - preferably rubber, for covering the floor with putty;
Quantity Supplies calculated depending on the size of the room. Experts recommend making a reserve of about 10% of the calculated value.

Parquet sanding steps:

It is quite difficult to sand old parquet by hand, but with the use of modern equipment this is a completely doable task. Even if you are going to resort to the help of professionals, understanding the order of work will allow you to control the process of their implementation more efficiently.

Preparation for sanding

First you need to assess the scope of work and, most importantly, its feasibility. After all, if the parquet can be characterized by the criteria indicated at the beginning of the article, then its renewal can only be done if it is completely replaced.

At the preparatory stage, the room is cleared of furniture and baseboards. Work is being carried out to strengthen the dies, eliminate squeaks, and replace individual components. The floor should be checked for any protruding nails or fasteners. Protruding elements should be recessed into the surface by 2-3 millimeters. The floor is vacuumed before major work.

Equipment selection

Depending on the area of ​​the room and the depth of grinding, a grinding machine is selected. Please note that the weight of the equipment will be at least 70 kg. For work you need: a special suit, earplugs and a respirator.

Parquet scraping

Produced at behind closed doors and open windows. Abrasive paper is placed on the drum part, taking into account what type of paper is needed:

  • No. 16 – cleans the floor from paint or varnish;
  • No. 24-40 – for removing paint and surface wood;
  • No. 60 – for deep grinding.
Let's describe other important points:
  • The directions for grinding are from the far right corner to the lower left, and crosswise; further manipulations are carried out in a spiral from the center.
  • Attention! Manipulations with the sander should only be carried out along the grain of the wood. Exceptions can only be made for short-term rotations of the device.
  • Work should begin from the far wall, moving towards the most accessible areas. From dust collectors, waste can be transferred to a polyethylene bag.
  • Attention! The PShM can only be raised and lowered when it is turned on, otherwise there will be a height difference on the floor.
  • It is important to maintain uniform pressure on the surface so that the layer removed from the parquet is the same over the entire area. As the abrasive wears out, it should be removed and a fresh blade installed.
  • After 1 sanding, you need to use a “boot” and a 40-60 emery cloth to polish nooks and crannies and unsanded “spots”.
  • Sanding work is carried out until the floor surface is in perfect condition until it becomes uniform in level and color.
  • The final fine work is performed with a surface grinder - 3-4 times -,in progress which eliminate unevenness, potholes and scratched areas with abrasive from No. 60 to 100.
  • Cycled parquet is vacuumed industrially. Then treat the cracks with putty using a rubber spatula, if necessary.
  • The last step in the main work will be sanding over the putty using #100 sandpaper until perfectly smooth.
  • The final treatment of the floor, which is once again cleared of dust and dirt after sanding, is carried out using oil or varnish, applied in 3-4 layers with a drying period of 4 hours after each application. Another round of sanding may be needed after the first coat.
You can watch the whole process in this video:


Having learned useful information and having received comprehensive instructions regarding correct execution polishing a portrait, you can perform this work without resorting to the services of construction and repair organizations. This will reduce your costs and allow you to sand your floor in a cost-effective manner.

Photo
Wooden parquet is one of the most reliable and durable floor coverings. But everything wears out over time and loses its former attractiveness. Shoes, heavy furniture, flooding - all this leads to the destruction of even this resistant material like parquet.

Section of a floor with parquet boards.

What to do in such a situation? Is it really necessary to change such an expensive coating? There is an easier way out - sanding the parquet yourself.

How to sand parquet

Scheme for sanding parquet to remove old varnish.

This process includes several stages:

  1. Removing old varnish.
  2. Cleaning the floor from dirt.
  3. Floor grinding, during which surface irregularities and defects are removed.

Sanding the parquet is carried out before applying a new layer of varnish or tinting agent to it.

If you apply varnish to unsanded parquet, all the scratches and defects that appear as a result of use will be visible on it. Therefore, high-quality polishing of parquet is the key to the durability and attractiveness of the floor.

But sanding parquet also has its own indications. It makes no sense to restore an old and cracked coating - it’s easier to replace it.

Scheme for polishing parquet to remove cracks and chips.

When sanding doesn't help the situation:

  • the material has dried out so that the gaps between the parquet planks reach 5 mm;
  • the parquet was swollen due to the flood;
  • abrasion of the coating in some places and the formation of surface irregularities;
  • wood is affected by insects;
  • the appearance of mold in the room;
  • Wetting of the floor due to fumes from below.

In the latter case, it is necessary to remove the old covering, lay a waterproofing film on the base and only then lay the new parquet.

All of these problems arise due to improper installation, undried material, and difficult operating conditions. Sanding parquet with your own hands eliminates defects in all other cases.

Before sanding the parquet, you need to clear the room of furniture and thoroughly clean the surface. Skirting boards should also be removed.

Parquet sanding tools

Surface scraping.

Grinding work can be done either manually or using special machines. If it is not possible to rent expensive equipment, then you can use manual cycles. This is a metal plate with a curved and sharpened edge, which is convenient for removing old varnish.

Sanding allows you to remove varnish to great depths, even in the most difficult to reach places. But this method restoration is quite difficult, since everything has to be done manually.

A high-quality method would be restoration of parquet flooring using grinding machines.

The grinding process consists of several stages, each of which uses a different type of equipment;

  1. Drum-type parquet sanding machine. This mechanism removes deep layers of old coating. This machine consists of a 200 mm wide drum and a pump into which the chips are collected. An abrasive material is attached to the drum, which scrapes the surface.
  2. Single-disc and three-disc surface grinder. This equipment is used for fine sanding of parquet before tinting or varnishing. This device is very popular because it is multifunctional and reliable. However, not everyone can afford such an expensive machine.
  3. “Sapozhok” is a type of grinding equipment designed for grinding hard-to-reach places: under radiators, in corners. These machines are unified: they are equipped with abrasive wheels and a dust collector.
  4. The industrial vacuum cleaner is designed to remove dust after grinding work.

Tools for updating parquet.

Grinding machines - convenient device, but expensive. They are mainly acquired by companies that deal parquet floors. If we are talking about one-time sanding at home, then it is more advisable to rent such equipment.

To make the surface smooth, you will need additional tools and materials:

  • sandpaper;
  • putty;
  • brushes and rollers;
  • rubber spatulas;
  • scissors for sandpaper;
  • keys for attaching the abrasive to the machine.

You will need sandpaper of different grits: No. 40, 60, 80, 100, 120. One sample is used for an area of ​​20 m², which is inserted into the machine.

Putty is used to fill the seams between the parquet strips. This will require about 5 kg of material. Varnish is purchased at the rate of 5 kg per 10 m².

Parquet sanding technology

Grinding work begins with rough processing. To do this, insert No. 40 abrasive paper into the machine and go through the room diagonally in two directions.

The drum sander moves diagonally from wall to wall. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the treated paths overlap each other by 5 cm.

Manual cycle operation diagram.

The force with which the drum of the machine operates is adjusted with a screw. While performing work, you need to monitor the engine load: it should neither overload nor slow down.

IN country houses Voltage fluctuations occur. If the network voltage is low, the engine speed decreases. If this happens, then it is necessary to reduce the pressure of the drum on the floor, and also turn off other electrical appliances from the network.

As the sandpaper wears out, it should be changed. Coarse-grained abrasive levels the floor and removes dirt. The roughing stage should be repeated until the surface is sufficiently clean and smooth. When grinding, a layer of material of 0.5-07 mm is removed. If the parquet board is thinner than 2 mm, then it cannot be sanded.

After processing the main area, begin grinding hard-to-reach places special device“boot”, the design of which is described above.

When finishing, use fine abrasive No. 120 and grind along the walls. At this stage, minor imperfections are eliminated, after which the surface becomes smooth and shiny.

When the parquet is restored, it can be varnished. For of this material Water-based varnishes are often used. This is a mistake, as the wood can swell from moisture and delaminate.

Therefore, the parquet floor should be coated in two layers with a solvent-based varnish, and then with a water-based coating.

The ideal option would be to apply a primer to the wooden floor, and then cover it with varnish.

You can also use a hard oil-wax coating to wooden floors. This substance prevents wood swelling. Despite excellent recommendations for this substance, it is quite difficult to apply and care for such a coating is much more difficult.

Do-it-yourself parquet sanding helps restore old flooring with minimal costs. This seemingly simple procedure refreshes the floor and gives it its former beauty.

Parquet is a piece of flooring, so in the process of laying several hundred planks it is impossible to achieve a completely flat surface.

For this purpose, special processes have been developed - scraping and grinding. The same methods are used to restore old parquet.

Their main purpose is to bring the finished parquet floor to perfection.

Before you varnish a parquet floor, you need to sand it, that is, actually polish the coating to a “perfectly smooth” state. Using the same processing technique, remnants of the old paint process, dirt, minor defects, scratches, weak wood fibers that “rose” during the process of laying or sanding the floor.

The secret to a well-performed grind is to gradually reduce the grain of the attachments. First, rough processing is carried out, then finer processing. This approach allows you to achieve excellent results even on the surface it is in very poor condition.

There is no need to sand the parquet yourself in the following cases:

  1. When the gaps between the old floor planks are more than 7 mm. Grouting and bringing it back to normal condition is incredibly labor-intensive work, and no one can guarantee that after a few months this coating will not deform. For such cases, it is recommended either complete replacement, or relaying the canvas with processing of each die and the use of adhesive mixtures.
  2. Severe abrasion of the most frequently used areas (corridors, passages between rooms) or deep scratches, chips, as well as grooves gnawed by woodworms. It is better to first replace the damaged area and then sand the entire floor.
  3. The parquet was filled with a large amount of water and swelled, mold and mildew appeared. Treatment is by replacement only.

Required materials and tools

As a rule, the owner of a house who decides to restore or install a parquet floor on his own is faced with the question - how to sand the parquet? There are two ways: manual and machine. The first one is very labor-intensive, time-consuming, and not too expensive. This is sanding by hand.

In this case, you will need the following materials for polishing parquet:

  1. Mixed-grain skins in rolls (from 40 to 120 units). The quantity depends on the area being treated.
  2. The holder (grater) for sandpaper is plastic or wooden. It is better to choose one with an ergonomic handle, otherwise your hand will get tired quickly.
  3. A manual scraper (scraper) for removing old paintwork, which is a steel plate bent at an angle of 45°, mounted on a wooden or plastic clamping handle.
  4. Respirator mask for protection respiratory tract from dust.

But rarely anyone uses manual processing; they prefer the second method - machine. This is all due to the availability of equipment, because what you can’t buy can be rented at reasonable prices.

For rough pre-processing of parquet or any wooden floors (tongue and groove boards, parquet boards, engineered wood), a drum-type parquet belt sander is required.

It is also used during the restoration of parquet floors to remove old paint coatings and is used when simultaneous scraping and sanding of parquet is required.

Available in two versions - with single-phase (220 V) and three-phase drive (380 V). Modern models are equipped with a fabric bag for collecting dust. The cost of the unit depends on the profile: household units can be purchased at a price of 6,000 rubles, professional units - from 90,000 rubles.

Fine grinding parquet board and parquet is carried out using single- or three-disc surface grinders with wheel attachments made of sandpaper with a grain size of 120 to 340 units.

This is exceptional professional equipment, it is used for jewelry polishing wooden floor before painting and after applying putty, as well as for intermediate polishing of the base between layers of paint and varnish. The price starts from 60,000 rubles.

Angle grinders for parquet (“boot”) are designed to work in places that are difficult to reach for large units (under radiators, in corners, near door frames).

Velcro-type circle attachments are used; grain size ranges from 40 to 400 units. Equipped with fabric dust collection bags on rotary handles.

A construction vacuum cleaner is used for removing dust from surfaces and/or connecting to grinders that are not equipped with built-in pumps.

Ready-made putty or liquid is needed to prepare a tinted putty mixture to level out minor defects.

Do not forget about components and consumables - abrasive belts or wheels, scissors, spanners for fixing drums on grinders, steel or silicone spatulas.

All equipment can be rented at reasonable prices. Thus, a small parquet sanding machine for rent will cost from 800 rubles per day, large devices– from 1,500 rubles/day with a deposit amount of 20,000 rubles.

Work technology

Parquet sanding jobs include preparation, deep/rough sanding, fine sanding, filling defects and finishing sanding. Let's consider all stages separately.

Preparatory stage

Freshly laid parquet should be inspected for minor defects (lost knots, loose or weakly glued planks), damage (chips, cracks). All these shortcomings can be easily eliminated using putty or wood glue.

Bitumen mastic for gluing solid board Doctors do not recommend using it. It is better to use special adhesive compositions free of phenol and formaldehyde.

All hardware and other protruding elements must be recessed into the wood by 3-4 mm, so as not to damage the drum of an expensive machine.

Sanding old parquet – more difficult process, since almost every plank needs to be checked for integrity and fastening. Damaged elements are replaced, weakly glued ones are re-glued. After finishing the work, you need to vacuum the entire coating and wipe it with a damp cloth.

Rough grinding

Before starting work, it is advisable to adjust the clamping force of the drum and its uniform fit. This is done using a special screw and wheel balancing.

A 40-grit abrasive is loaded into the drum and deep sanding of the parquet floor along the parquet fibers begins. Lateral movement is allowed on turns. For herringbone, processing is carried out diagonally, for palace or wicker - crosswise, for artistic - in a circle with a spiral twist.

Drafts must not be allowed. Therefore, it is advisable to close the windows in the room being treated.

As the abrasive material wears out, it must be replaced with a new one.

After finishing the work, you need to use an angle grinder to walk in a circular motion around corners and hard-to-reach places. The grain size of the nozzles is the same – 40 units.

Fine grinding

This is done using a surface grinder. It removes all irregularities, scratches, and minor defects. In this case, wheels with a grain size from 60 to 120 units are used. It turns out that the parquet is brought to perfect condition in 3-4 passes. As discs wear out, they need to be replaced.

All hard to reach places again processed with a “boot” with appropriate attachments - from 60 to 120 units. After finishing work, the floor is vacuumed and wiped with a damp cloth.

Puttying

Defects in the restored floor are corrected with ready-made colored wood putty (Belinka, Helios, Tex). If it is possible to purchase a special putty liquid, then it is better to make the mixture yourself. In this case it is guaranteed perfect hit to match the parquet.

You need to take into account the fact that the varnish “burns” the wood a little. After varnishing, even with a transparent composition, the floor darkens by 1-3 tones, so it is preferable to use homemade putty.

A pile of fine-grained sawdust is poured onto the floor, filled with a special compound, and quickly stirred with a spatula made of of stainless steel and is evenly distributed with rubbing movements throughout the parquet. Drying time – up to 24 hours.

Finish grinding

To finally bring the parquet to perfection, you need to work it again using a surface grinder with a wheel with a grit of 120 and higher. Some professional varnishes require preliminary preparation with nozzles from 240 and above. The movement of the unit is in the direction of the fibers.

After finishing the work, you need to vacuum again with an industrial device and rinse with a damp cloth. After this, the floor is primed and varnished in 2-4 layers. Between 1 and 2, intermediate grinding with a surface grinder with an attachment with a grit size of over 160 units is desirable.

How to choose grinding machines

Belt sanders are not purchased for frequent use, but their choice must be approached responsibly.

In this case, you need to pay attention to the following parameters:

  1. Purpose. Household grinders are compact (up to 10 kg), inexpensive, working surface size is up to 10 cm. They are used for primary processing in small areas. More than 10 sq. m. area is very difficult for them to process evenly - you need experienced master with an excellent eye. Professional units are voluminous, weight up to 100 kg, belt width up to 25 cm. They are used for both coarse and fine grinding. Weakness- rubber glued to the drum. It can be easily damaged by a nail or a rod of wire protruding from the floor.
  2. Power. Simple cars consume up to 1 kW, professional ones - from 2.5 kW and above. Of course, the more powerful the device, the faster the grinding is carried out.
  3. Functionality. There must be an RCD, a gear shift lever, and special limit rollers that allow you to process parquet close to the wall without fear of touching the baseboard.
  4. Ergonomics. The front cover should be hinged to ensure easy installation and dismantling of the drum and skins. The clamps must ensure good tension of the tape
  5. Build quality and performance. The device must have an even coating without chips or drips, the gaps between parts must be minimal, and the fastenings must be strong and reliable.

The price plays an important role here, but if you are going to do this constantly, then it is better not to save. For one-time work, you can use rental equipment.

Video - sanding parquet various types grinding machines: