Sidewalk paths on the site. Sidewalk paths on the site Laying soft stones on a concrete base
December 27, 2010
When you arrive at an unfamiliar garden plot, the first thing you pay attention to is the paths. After all, you need to somehow get to the house, gazebo, patio or garden beds without tearing your clothes or getting your shoes dirty. And very often in best case scenario you see cracked concrete, warped tiles, and in the worst case, boards sunk in the mud or deep ruts. How to make it comfortable and durable DIY garden paths? First, let's highlight three of their categories.
Third category. Paths.
The name itself indicates that such paths are trampled by feet and compacted by the wheels of a wheelbarrow or car. The soil on the path is dense and, as a rule, sagging. Therefore, trails are often the site of potential puddles. To turn a trail into a comfortable walkway, it is first necessary to ensure that standing water is drained away from it. To do this, the contour of the path is leveled: the holes are filled in and the bumps are cut off. Sand is brought into the path itself and driven into the ground. Sometimes crushed stone is added to the sand.
The next necessary step is to line the path with soil-holding plants (for example, short clover) or install a mixborder.
Second category. Paths with a filled base.
These are traditional garden paths on cultivated garden plots. When constructing them, a bed is dug to a depth of 10 cm. The bottom and sides are covered with geotextile with a density of 150-200 g/sq.m as a barrier for the roots of herbaceous plants. The sides of the bed are also often secured with curb tape. The entire bed (up to the soil level) is covered with crushed stone, pebbles or screenings. To make the path decorative, individual paving slabs or flagstones are laid on it. These elements are buried in the backfill layer so that they do not rise above the path and above the soil.
With another method of constructing garden paths of the second category decorative coating fit tightly to each other. In this case, the depth of the bed is made 5-10 cm and a sand cushion is arranged. Paving slabs, paving stones, and flagstones are laid above the soil level, and the edges are secured with a curb. It is made from garden board or cobblestones laid on cement mortar. But usually they do without a border, placing a lawn close to the path, or setting up a mixborder. The seams between the covering elements are covered with sand and sown with dwarf lawn grass.
If they are building a “Swiss path” (1 step - 1 stone), then a sand cushion is prepared under each of the stones, placing them at the soil level.
First category. Paths with a solid poured base.
Such capital paths are made where a large load is expected on them. When constructing them, a bed 15 cm deep is dug. In places where rain or melt water is expected to accumulate, its drainage is ensured. Sand is poured into the bed, leveled and compacted. The height of this drainage layer should be about 5 cm. The sides of the bed are framed with border tape, and if there is none, then with old linoleum or roofing felt cut into strips.
Usually such a foundation is made at ground level. If they want to raise the path significantly, then strips of plywood or boards, respectively securely fastened, are used as formwork. Self concrete base to avoid rupture, they either reinforce or install thermal joints every 1.5-2 m. The second solution is cheaper, but with the arrival of spring there is a danger that the improvised concrete slabs will rise or sag relative to each other.
This will not happen when reinforcing a concrete base. You just need to remember that armored bed nets, chain-link mesh, bicycle frames and other similar rubbish that “zealous” owners “roll” into concrete are completely unsuitable as reinforcement. Reinforcement must be done with a rod with a diameter of 5-8 mm or mesh welded from the rod with dimensions of 0.5 × 2 m and with cells of 10 × 10 cm or 10 × 15 cm. The reinforcement is placed on supports for which fragments of bricks are suitable. They are necessary so that after pouring the reinforcement is embedded in the thickness of the concrete.
The concrete is placed in a bed and compacted moderately. If there is not enough concrete for the entire path, a crossbar made of boards is installed at the end of the pouring, so that the concrete ends in an even “cut”, without sagging. When pouring a new batch of concrete, the cross member is removed.
This is how the entire base is gradually made, and after the concrete has set, a decorative coating is laid on top (on cement mortar) ( paving stones, tiles, natural stone) and, if necessary, a curb. Usually, in its final form, the track surface is 3-5 cm above the soil level, which provides protection against soil washing on it.
Video: DIY garden path in 1 day
Materials for designing paths should be combined with the style of the house and the surrounding landscape
All functional areas of the site must be interconnected by a well-thought-out network of garden paths. This will allow you to quickly reach your desired location. When taking into account the composition of the soil, relief, landscape style garden and architectural style Houses. Their optimal quantity depends on the financial capabilities of the site owners, installation technology and operating conditions. After placing all the main objects on the preliminary design, a plan of paths is drawn, then markings are made.
The direction of movement along garden paths is thought out so that they can be easily accessed by everyone. functional areas or to a focal point. The main garden path and walking paths are made smooth or straight, depending on the style and size of the site. The angles of their intersection should be smooth or approach straight lines - for ease of maintenance and for comfortable movement.
The direction of movement is thought out in advance so that you can easily get to any focal point
Design of garden paths
They start by preparing the base, then lay the covering and, if planned, install curbs; the material for the paths must be durable, soft and elastic when walking. In addition, it must have a rough surface so that you can move safely during rain or ice. To avoid stagnation of water on the paths, the coating is made with a slope of 2% from the center to the edges. Watercourses are also placed at a distance of 40 - 50 cm from the main road and 15 - 30 cm from the paths. If the terrain does not allow paths on both sides, you can make a slope in one direction. Standard width The main road is 1.2 - 2 m, the paths are from 40 to 70 cm wide.
Curbs
Necessary to strengthen the edges and give clarity to the boundaries of the paths. They are made of brick, stone, wooden blocks or concrete, and the material used does not necessarily have to match the texture of the path itself. The border is buried 10 - 15 cm into the ground, leaving about 10 cm of soil surface. If the site is sandy, you can make a border from natural stone. It is installed at a certain depth, covered with earth and compacted, while wetting it with water. On other pounds, a sand or concrete base is made. Wooden borders are prepared from logs with a diameter of 8-11 cm. They are pre-treated against rotting protective agent, and the upper cut is made oblique so that water does not stagnate on it.
Garden path materials
They must be combined with the materials from which the house and small architectural forms are made, as well as with the plants on the site. Upon registration road network natural and artificial materials are used. Natural coatings are made from untreated stone - sandstone, limestone, slate, granite, and processed stone - sawn or crushed basalt and pebbles. They make strong and wear-resistant slabs and paving stones. Porous materials and wooden cuts are treated with a special water-repellent agent before installation. Artificial turf has some advantages over natural material: it is cheaper and easier to install. In addition, due to the fact that artificial material is easy to process, it can be used to implement various design solutions.
Paths made of rubble, hewn or crushed cobblestones are durable and decorative. The base for them is calculated based on the operational load and the purpose of using the paths. The sandy base under flat stones is buried by 5 - 10 cm, under the rubble - depending on the size of the most large stones. The gaps are filled with fine stones and filled with mortar, and the joints are made flush with the coating. Stone paths intended for the passage of cars are made on a concrete base. First, remove the soil to a depth of 20-30 cm, then fill it with crushed stone in a layer of 10-15 cm, compact it and moisten it with water. After this, concrete 5-10 cm thick is poured and the surface is leveled. The stone is placed on cement, the gaps are filled with mortar and expanded, and the mortar must be flush or higher than the stones so that cracks do not form after winter. Natural stone must be cleaned or washed before use.
To lay paths in this way, first remove the soil to a depth of 15 - 25 cm, then fill it with sand, spill it with water layer by layer and compact it. After this, wooden cuts 10–20 cm high are installed, and the gaps between them are filled with sand. In order for the tree to last longer, the underground parts must be pre-treated with a special antiseptic impregnation, tarred or charred. This will help protect the coating from moisture and rotting.
Modern paving slabs often imitate natural material, and convenient connections allow you to combine its various elements. This coating is easy to maintain, durable, does not heat up and does not emit harmful fumes, and excess moisture seeps through the tile seams. If the need arises, the tiles can be completely or partially dismantled and then re-installed. The base is prepared for such paths: for gravel-sand paths, 15 cm of gravel and 5 cm of sand are poured, and for concrete paths, depending on the purpose of the coating. Each layer is leveled and compacted. After laying, the seams are sprinkled with a dry mixture, the excess is removed and the slabs are spilled with water.
When constructing a monolithic concrete covering first they make a breakdown of the tracks then they remove upper layer soil, and the remaining soil is compacted. The formwork is installed so that the upper edge protrudes 5-6 cm above the soil, and only then is leveled using a cord. At the joints of boards or bars, pegs are driven into the ground. Also, slats are installed perpendicular to the formwork, at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other, then a layer of sand and crushed stone is poured 10 cm deep, compacted and filled with concrete.
Concrete slab paths are created in two ways. The sand base is made 10-12 cm thick, the slabs are placed close to each other, with seams 0.5-0.7 cm. On the crushed stone base, the slabs are laid on the mortar, with seams 1-1.5 cm. The evenness of the seams is checked using a tensioned cord and building level. The front surface of the slabs should rise 3-4 cm above the ground, since over time the path will sag. Paving can be decorated with pebbles or ceramic tiles.
Paths made of clinker bricks are convenient and practical, as this material is wear-resistant and moisture-resistant. The brick is laid on a layer of sand or crushed stone using a mortar. Sand and crushed stone are poured into a prepared soil trough in a layer of 10 cm and compacted. If the area is swampy, peaty, with loess or subsidence soils, a reinforced concrete pad 8 cm thick is placed on top of the crushed stone. Then a prawn is laid and leveled. Next, lay the brick and, leveling it strictly horizontally using a building level, spill it with water. After setting, the masonry is covered with a layer of sand 2 cm thick, and the excess is removed. Along the edges of the paths, a border of bricks is installed, located at an angle or on an edge.
Step-by-step paths can be installed on the lawn. On the site, grass is cut out according to the size of the tiles and the material is installed below the grass level on sand or gravel. This will make mowing the lawn convenient. It is possible to install the tiles on a sand cushion. In this case, the seams are filled with soil and sown lawn grass, while maintaining a distance between the centers of the tiles of about 60-65 cm.
Bulk paths are made of pebbles, stone chips, marble or granite screenings, bark or gravel. Gravel comes in different sizes and colors. It is advisable to fence embankment paths with a border, since, for example, tree bark can be blown by the wind, and crushed stone and gravel can creep away. Geotextiles are also laid on the base to protect the coating from root growth.
Bulk paths are made if they will not bear heavy loads, and they use various materials. The main advantage of bulk coatings is that water does not stagnate on them and that they can be very decorative.
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Step 1 To estimate the shape and bends of the path on the ground, it is convenient to use a hose |
Step 2 Mark the final boundaries of the path by placing paving slabs along its edges |
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Step 3 Dig a bed for the path about 5 cm deep. Along its edges, hammer the curb flush with the lawn using a rubber mallet |
Step 4 Place spunbond at the bottom of the recess. It should be thick enough. Apply coating over spunbond |
We combine materials for garden paths
Garden paths can be made from different materials, combining them in size, color and texture, or using one type of material, but different color range An interesting texture is obtained by grouping large or small rectangular slabs with round, small slabs irregular shape, stones and wood.
Options for paving garden paths
In order for garden paths to last a long time, the covering material is chosen depending on their purpose. For example, for the entrance area and main roads, a concrete foundation reinforced with a road mesh is installed. For secondary paths, a soft base is sufficient, since the load on them is minimal.
Laying hard materials on a crushed stone bed
First, a layer of crushed stone with sand 12-15 cm thick is poured, then a layer of gritsovka 7-10 cm thick is poured. Each of them is carefully compacted, then the tiles are laid. The gaps between the tiles are filled with grout and watered.
Laying hard materials on a crushed stone bed
Laying wooden cuts on a soft base
Crushed stone is poured into the prepared base with a depth of 20-25 cm, and a layer of sand 7-10 cm thick is poured on top. Each layer is compacted and saw cuts 3-5 cm thick are laid. The space between the cuts is filled with sand or earth.
Laying wooden cuts on a soft base
Laying soft stones on a concrete base
To lay paths, you can use flagstone made of dolomite, sandstone or limestone. The gaps between the plates should be no larger than 5 mm. The best binding material in this case is cement strainer with the addition of special glue.
Laying soft stones on a concrete base
Laying rigid materials on a concrete base
Lightly moistened grout is poured on top of the concrete base. Each tile is temporarily laid in place, then removed and poured thin layer cement. The elements are re-laid, tamped, and the seams are covered with a bead and watered.
Laying rigid materials on a concrete base
If several years after the device paving slabs a separate part of the space begins to deform, this indicates violations of the technology for laying this type of coating. However, you should not worry and quickly calculate your losses, since this problem can be solved on your own. Certainly, ideal option It would be to call the unfortunate masters and force them to restore the coating. It’s just not always possible to find the culprits, since the cost of paving slabs already includes the cost of laying them. Therefore, it is more advisable to eliminate the sagging area yourself.
REASONS FOR SAGING PAVEMENT TILES
Before fixing any problem, it is very important to identify the causes of its occurrence, and subsidence of paving slabs is no exception. Experienced specialists note that there can be several reasons for the failure of tiles; as a rule, they lie in non-compliance with laying technology, and can also be a consequence natural phenomena.
For example, tiles very often sag due to insufficient compaction of the base. This is especially pronounced if, before laying the tiles, excavation work was carried out on the site (installation of sewerage, etc.). After laying pipes in the ground, sometimes workers miss one very important point– soil compaction. And if this stage is omitted within a few years, the tiles will certainly sag under negative impact natural phenomena. This is usually observed in early spring after thawing frozen soil, which shrinks under the influence of excess moisture.
Another reason that can cause subsidence of the road surface is an increase in the level groundwater. This is largely due to the movement of layers of earth during the planning of the site. This can also be explained by a natural process of nature - a change in the direction of groundwater flow. As a result, in an area where groundwater has never been observed, it can suddenly appear and contribute to existing design your changes.
RESTORATION OF PROBLEM AREAS
Work to restore sagging tiles begins with dismantling the problem area. If during operation and due to subsidence of the base the tiles were deformed, you will also need to buy paving slabs individually required quantity. Next, soil is selected from the subsided area (the soil should be removed to a depth of no more than 50–60 cm) and the base is covered with sand, the layer of which should be 2–3 cm. Thus, the subsided soil is restored. These works also require dense compaction of the new base.
Since the base is being redone, it would not be superfluous to use crushed stone instead of earth. Unlike soil, crushed stone has a high density, due to which it does not absorb moisture from the ground and eliminates subsequent shrinkage of the base. As a result, all moisture present in the soil and coming from outside will not accumulate in the base, but will flow down. It is also worth noting that crushed stone can withstand temperature fluctuations very well, helping to maintain the integrity of the road surface.
If it is necessary to restore an oversized sagging area, you will need a device drainage system. To do this, you need to install drainage at the bottom of the trench, which will be an excellent solution to the problem of groundwater. Once all the work to strengthen the base has been completed, you can begin laying the tiles. And finally, I would like to note the following: despite the fact that the cost of paving slabs compared to other materials is quite affordable, work to restore sagging pavement can take up precious time. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully monitor the work on installing such a coating.
Location and type of garden paths – important factor, which largely determines the entire impression of the garden. Our detailed instructions will tell you how to give the site a finished look.
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On the picture:
1. What do you need to plan ahead?
Location and number of tracks. Usually, other smaller paths branch off from the main and widest path. Think about which places on the site you will visit more often - the required density of the canvas depends on this. Path planning also depends on the topography of the site and climatic features terrain.
2. What material should I use?
The art of imitation. There is an artificial stone on the market that imitates a cut tree - it looks just as good as natural wood, but more durable. Artificial stone, more durable and lighter, you can replace paving stones, cobblestones, pebbles, and bricks.
Hard surfaces for the main road. The wide road leading from the gate to the porch or garage is subject to the greatest loads. It is better to choose monolithic concrete or slabs, stone (natural or artificial), brick, paving slabs.
Soft coverings for small paths.“Secondary” paths are usually covered with embankment, soil, or even wooden flooring. A green garden path made of carefully planted grass also looks advantageous, but this option requires especially careful care and well-chosen surrounding plants.
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3. How to design the base of the path?
Using geotextiles. A geosynthetic fabric made of polymer fibers is placed at the bottom of the trench and between a layer of sand and gravel. Geotextiles do not rot, mold and fungi do not appear on it. The canvas protects the path from subsidence and prevents roots from growing garden plants. The use of geotextiles on heaving soils is especially important. Its thickness depends on the load on the track.
4. How to lay hard surface?
In the photo: a path from a project implemented by designer Svetlana Kudryavtseva and architect Oleg Likhachev.
Depends on the soil. A trough is dug in stable soil, compacted, and geotextiles are laid. The crushed stone layer is leveled, water drainage is arranged and geotextiles are laid again. Next, sand is poured and compacted with water, and curbs are installed on the sides. Problematic soil may require a 5-centimeter sand cushion laid on a layer of geotextile. After laying, the crushed stone is poured cement-sand mixture, which can be reinforced metal mesh. If the road is made from monolithic concrete, don't forget about " expansion joints"to avoid cracks.
5. What is suitable for bulk coating?
Coarse sand, stone chips, pebbles, wood. Even such exotic material as shell will do. pine nuts. Wood bark and wood chips must be treated with an anti-rotting compound. Lightweight materials will blow out over time, so the top layer needs to be renewed from time to time.
6. How to lay the bulk covering?
In thin layers. Each layer is then compacted with a roller or vibrating plate. First, the trench is filled with a 10-centimeter layer of gravel, then a 15-centimeter layer of soil is laid. As an alternative, you can use a mixture of clay and sand in a ratio of 30 to 70. Such a path needs to be reinforced with geotextiles, make a slope, and then give the edges clarity.
7. How to care for a wooden walkway?
Soak in antiseptic and varnish. A wooden garden path is short-lived and susceptible to rotting, but it is pleasant to the touch and looks cozy. The 25-30 centimeter base of such a path is filled with several compacted layers of sand, then covered with gravel or crushed stone. Boards, bars, garden parquet, wooden cuts or hemp are placed on top.
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\\\if you lift it, it’s safer
8. Are curbs necessary?
Yes, if you have a soft surface. The border will not only give it a neat look, but will also prevent the path from deforming. The material of the curb and the covering does not have to match. Brick, tiles, timber, wooden blocks, metal and plastic are equally suitable for designing paths. Don't be afraid of plastic - it's easy to install, looks neat and will last a long time. Hidden strip curbs made of steel are usually laid along paving paths.
9. How to ensure water flow?
Make a slope. The convex profile of the track should give a slope of approximately 2-3 cm from the axis to the edges. linear meter. It is better to do the slope in two directions, towards drainage ditches. If the slope is more than 5 cm (for example, near an embankment path), the structure should be supplemented with a step.
10. How to decorate the path?
With the help of plants. Place a fertile mixture in the cracks between the stones and plant herbs, shrubs or flowers. Mosses will do, decorative types plantain, acena, thyme, fescue or tenacious.
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On the picture:
Other garden path projects on interiorexplorer.ru |
| Path from a project implemented by architect Yuri Kulikov | Path from the project of the architectural bureau 5 Radius | Path from the project of the architectural bureau Arkanika |
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Garden paths at the dacha are not only a high-quality marking of the site and its original decoration, but also the main canvas for movement around the territory, and this is the most important purpose. But it often happens that after winter this element of the landscape needs to be updated.
Yes, it is after a frosty winter and snow melting that we discover cracks and chips on many dacha objects, more serious defects and breakdowns that push us to immediate repairs. And this is very correct, because if a barn with small crack In the wall it may take several weeks, but the paths should be updated immediately, since it is easy to get injured on a poor-quality surface.
Today we want to tell you how to quickly and cheaply update and restore paths in your country house that have become unusable due to long periods of use or for other reasons.
Inexpensive replacement
If the old canvas is worn out, cracked and interferes with safe movement around the territory, sometimes it is more advisable to replace it altogether.
An inexpensive replacement can be standard concrete slabs, which can be purchased at construction sites or poured out of the solution yourself. Concrete slabs for country paths last quite a long time with correct placement on the site, and they look very good if, for example, you decorate them with plants on the sides, lay a lawn along the path, and so on.
You can lay concrete slabs on the ground, or you can do it the right pillow from crushed stone, screenings and sand, creating a certain drainage layer. Filling occurs according to a self-created form. If there is ready-made slabs, then all that remains is to lay it according to the markings and seal the seams, perhaps plant lawn grass in the seams.
Renewal by stone
Stone paths in the country are an expensive pleasure that not all of us can afford. Therefore, if you have finally decided and have already spent money on installation, then the paths should be properly cared for so that their service life lasts as long as possible.
Update this landscape element in the spring - quite simple task, but only in the case of more or less normal condition. If winter frosts and the scorching sun, as well as spring streams, have spoiled the base and surface, serious work lies ahead.
Broken stone and the most defective parts must be replaced completely. It is advisable to remove such pieces from the general canvas, lay a new embankment under them and place a new stone in place. The seams between the stone will need to be filled with the same material as before. Perhaps it was cement-sand mortar, sand, dry cement or other materials.
Be sure to take care of any damaged parts of the stone path, as further fractures are concentrated in such places. They are possible due to redistribution of load on the surface, stagnation of water, dirt.
If the path is generally old and requires overhaul, it is much easier to replace it completely by applying the knowledge and imagination already acquired. You can easily lay a new stone in the desired direction across the site, use decorative elements and get new views in landscape design dachas
Renewing paths on the lawn
Lawns are a bright backdrop to the entire dacha area, and it is very unpleasant when they are “cut” by low-quality paths (and this is where they suffer the most). An improperly organized path on the lawn can accumulate moisture and be destroyed due to washouts and other problems, and therefore it is worth paying attention to them special attention.
But what is good news is that updating lawn paths is considered the simplest. Here you can paint almost any picture with stone, even laying it out in intricate patterns that don’t look very natural in other areas of the site.
The stone can be laid new or not entirely, intertwined with green areas, or decorate part of the path with other elements, creating original combinations.
But if you have the opportunity, it is better to use new natural stone for restoration. To install it, it will be necessary to remove part of the lawn, lay a drainage cushion, compact the material in the prepared area, and sow the joints and seams with grass. As a result of a rather interesting process, you can not only update an element of the site, but also completely redesign the landscape.
Advantages of combined materials
Many prudent summer residents immediately build decorative combined paths, which are based on laying a variety of materials. Thus, on one plane one can observe different varieties stone, concrete, crushed stone, and even brick. In this case, if in the spring it is necessary to replace some parts, it will not be so difficult. You just have to use the material that is available. Buy more new brick or you won't need a stone.
On the positive side is also the fact that any pothole or poor-quality material can be replaced with a small slab of concrete. To do this, it is enough to remove the defective part, clean the pouring area, make a cushion and install the formwork in the shape that best suits the design. Next, just fill the openings with the solution and give it a little time to dry. After pouring, the formwork is removed and the seams are rubbed with sand, dry cement, or green grass is planted in them.
Forms for paths or complete replacement of the canvas
To form or restore paths it is very convenient to use special forms, of which there are plenty on sale today. You can always choose the dimensions, pattern, relief and other parameters at your own discretion, and then build the tracks according to a simplified scheme.
The same technology is used both in laying new and in restoring old paths. You make markings, prepare the surface, arrange the pouring and prepare the cement-sand mortar for pouring. Only now you don’t need to think about the formwork and try to draw the shape yourself, it is already completely ready. Place the mold at the beginning of the future path, pour it with the solution, let the solution dry a little, remove the mold and continue production.
When the concrete paths are completely dry, it will be necessary to fill the seams with screenings, sand, and plant grass.
Repair and renewal of embankment paths
Absolutely any coating can be replaced with bulk coating, which will absorb and drain water well, remain dry and reliable, complement the landscape of the dacha and serve maximum terms.
If the asphalt, concrete or stone path at your dacha has become worn out, you can organize a simple restoration with virtually no cost. All you need is a certain amount of material. It can be crushed stone, granite chips, expanded clay or even sand.
You make markings around the territory, or simply along the borders of the old path that you are restoring, remove a certain layer, about 12-15 cm, so that future path was level with the rest of the territory, and pour the material, compacting it well. Further, the boundaries can be laid with stone or brick for decoration and restrictions of the embankment.
The result of the simplest work is an excellent solution for the dacha - an embankment path that will last for many years without any problems.
Restoration and production of country paths (video)
Updating paths in the country can occur in other ways, using other materials and technologies, which we will definitely talk about later. Today we looked at the fastest, most practical and inexpensive methods for replacing and restoring canvas and now we want to hear your opinion about the article.
Reviews and comments
Oksana Dmitrievna 23.10.2014
Hello! I share mine interesting experience obtaining a rich harvest. I got it Nastya 09/12/2014
The garden paths in our dacha have long been a mess. They are many years old, so my husband and I have thought more than once about replacing the tracks. It turns out that this is not at all necessary, as I understood from this article, updating the old coating is not at all difficult. Perhaps this is for us the best option, how complete replacement garden paths.
Anya 06/11/2016
We have concrete paths in our yard. They are already old, with cracks and chips. The path has especially deteriorated in the place where the soil has subsided, and in the spring this place stands in a puddle for a long time melt water, which either freeze or melt. In the fall, my husband plans to dismantle the paths and make an embankment of soil so that later the paths will not be flooded with water. Then the paving slabs will be laid.
Yuri 06/04/2017
were old concrete paths in the cracks. What was fighting back was beaten off. Then some of the paths were covered with a layer of sand + cement + liquid glass, and part without glass. The first part was a little sticky after the rains, then it became smooth. No cracks after winter. The second one went small cracks. I’m figuring out how to fill them using glass.