Garden path care. DIY garden paths Decorating garden paths

Location and type of garden paths – important factor, which largely determines the entire impression of the garden. Our detailed instructions will tell you how to give the site a finished look.

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1. What do you need to plan ahead?

Location and number of tracks. Usually, other smaller paths branch off from the main and widest path. Think about which places on the site you will visit more often - the required density of the canvas depends on this. Path planning also depends on the topography of the site and climatic features terrain.

2. What material should I use?

The art of imitation. There is an artificial stone on the market that imitates a cut tree - it looks just as good as natural wood, but more durable. Artificial stone, more durable and lighter, you can replace paving stones, cobblestones, pebbles, and bricks.

Hard surfaces for the main road. The wide road leading from the gate to the porch or garage is subject to the greatest loads. It is better to choose monolithic concrete or slabs, stone (natural or artificial), brick, paving slabs.

Soft coverings for small paths.“Secondary” paths are usually covered with embankment, soil or even wooden flooring. A green garden path made of carefully planted grass also looks advantageous, but this option requires especially careful care and well-chosen surrounding plants.

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3. How to design the base of the path?

Using geotextiles. A geosynthetic fabric made of polymer fibers is placed at the bottom of the trench and between a layer of sand and gravel. Geotextiles do not rot, mold and fungi do not appear on it. The canvas protects the path from subsidence and prevents the roots of garden plants from growing. The use of geotextiles on heaving soils is especially important. Its thickness depends on the load on the track.

4. How to lay hard surface?

In the photo: a path from a project implemented by designer Svetlana Kudryavtseva and architect Oleg Likhachev.

Depends on the soil. A trough is dug in stable soil, compacted, and geotextiles are laid. The crushed stone layer is leveled, water drainage is arranged and geotextiles are laid again. Next, sand is poured and compacted with water, and curbs are installed on the sides. Problematic soil may require a 5-centimeter sand cushion laid on a layer of geotextile. After laying, the crushed stone is poured cement-sand mixture, which can be reinforced metal mesh. If the road is made from monolithic concrete, don't forget about " expansion joints"to avoid cracks.

5. What is suitable for bulk coating?

Coarse sand, stone chips, pebbles, wood. Even such exotic material as shell will do. pine nuts. Wood bark and wood chips must be treated with an anti-rotting compound. Lightweight materials will blow out over time, so upper layer needs to be updated from time to time.

6. How to lay the bulk covering?

In thin layers. Each layer is then compacted with a roller or vibrating plate. First, the trench is filled with a 10-centimeter layer of gravel, then a 15-centimeter layer of soil is laid. As an alternative, you can use a mixture of clay and sand in a ratio of 30 to 70. Such a path needs to be reinforced with geotextiles, make a slope, and then give the edges clarity.

7. How to care for a wooden walkway?

Soak in antiseptic and varnish. A wooden garden path is short-lived and susceptible to rotting, but it is pleasant to the touch and looks cozy. The 25-30 centimeter base of such a path is filled with several compacted layers of sand, then covered with gravel or crushed stone. Boards, bars, garden parquet, wooden cuts or hemp are placed on top.

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\\\if you lift it, it’s safer

8. Are curbs necessary?

Yes, if you have a soft surface. The border will not only give it a neat look, but will also prevent the path from deforming. The material of the curb and the covering does not have to match. Brick, tiles, timber, wooden blocks, metal and plastic are equally suitable for designing paths. Don't be afraid of plastic - it's easy to install, looks neat and will last a long time. Hidden strip curbs made of steel are usually laid along paving paths.

9. How to ensure water flow?

Make a slope. The convex profile of the track should give a slope of approximately 2-3 cm from the axis to the edges. linear meter. It is better to do the slope in two directions, towards drainage ditches. If the slope is more than 5 cm (for example, near an embankment path), the structure should be supplemented with a step.

10. How to decorate the path?

With the help of plants. Place a fertile mixture in the cracks between the stones and plant herbs, shrubs or flowers. Mosses, decorative types of plantain, acena, thyme, fescue or tenacious are suitable.

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Each owner arranges his dacha area in his own way. One of the landscape elements worth paying attention to are paths. Usually their condition is simple - warped tiles, cracked concrete, or even just boards or deep ruts. But paths can become a long-lasting decoration of the site. So how do you do this?

Paths.

Such paths arise by themselves during the operation of the site. They are trampled in places of greatest use and compacted by transport wheels. The ground on such paths is usually very dense and sagging.
As a rule, puddles accumulate on the paths after rains and the water sits in them for a long time, interfering with movement. In order to avoid this, you need to make a diversion from the path of standing water. To do this, the path is leveled - the mounds are cut off, and the holes are filled in. Sand is added to the surface of the path and compacted into the ground. You can use a mixture of sand and crushed stone.
To prevent the path from becoming sloppy, it must be lined with soil-retaining plants, such as low clover, or a mixborder should be arranged.

Paths whose bases have been filled in.

This is the second category of tracks. They are usually present in well-kept summer cottages. To create such a path, a bed 10 centimeters deep is dug. On the bottom and sides. Geotextiles with a density of 150-299 gsq.m are laid. The edges of such a bed can be reinforced with border tape. The path is covered with pebbles, screenings or crushed stone up to the soil level. To give the track decorative look, flagstone stones or paving slabs are laid on it. They are laid in a layer of backfill so that they are at the same level of the soil or path.
There is another way to lay a second category path. For this purpose, decorative elements are tightly adjusted. With this option, the bed is made shallow, about 5-10 centimeters, and a sand cushion is laid. Decorative elements(paving stones, paving slabs, flagstones) are placed above ground level. The edges of the path are reinforced with a curb. The border can be made from cobblestones, which are laid on cement, or from garden board. Instead of a border, you can add a lawn or make a mixborder. All seams are carefully covered with sand. You can sow dwarf lawn grass.
There is such a way as laying the “Swiss trail”. This means that one step corresponds to one stone. Then a sand cushion is made under each stone, and everything is laid at soil level.

If a large load is planned on the track during operation, then this type of track is the most suitable. The bed for such a path is deep - 15 centimeters. It is planned to drain water where it may accumulate, be it rainwater or melting. Sand is placed in the arranged bed and compacted. That is, a drainage layer is formed. Its height must be at least 5 centimeters. A border strip is placed on the sides of the bed. If there is no tape, you can use old roofing felt or linoleum.

The base of such a path is made at ground level. In order to raise the path, you need to use formwork in the form of strips of plywood or garden boards. Attach them securely.
To prevent the concrete covering from tearing, it is reinforced or thermal joints are made every two meters of the path. Thermal joints are cheaper, but in the spring such slabs can rise or sag relative to each other.

To prevent this from happening, it is better to reinforce the concrete base. There is no need to use old trash for reinforcement - bicycle frames, bed nets, chain-link mesh, but it is better to take a rod with a diameter of 508 millimeters or nets welded from the rod with cells of 10-10 cm. For a stand under the reinforcement, you can use fragments of bricks. This is necessary so that after pouring the reinforcement is located in the thickness of the concrete.
Then the concrete is laid and compacted. If there is not enough concrete, then at the end of the pour a transverse beam made of boards is placed so that the concrete path ends smoothly, without sagging. When a new batch of concrete is poured, the board is removed.
The entire base is made in this way, and after the concrete has set, decor is placed on top and, if required, a border. At the end of your work, the track bed should be 3-5 centimeters above ground level, this way you will provide protection from soil washing onto the track.

Materials for designing paths should be combined with the style of the house and the surrounding landscape

All functional areas of the site must be interconnected by a well-thought-out network of garden paths. This will allow you to quickly reach your desired location. When taking into account the composition of the soil, relief, landscape style garden and architectural style Houses. Their optimal quantity depends on the financial capabilities of the site owners, installation technology and operating conditions. After placing all the main objects on the preliminary design, a plan of paths is drawn, then markings are made.

The direction of movement along garden paths is thought out so that they can be easily accessed by everyone. functional areas or to a focal point. The main garden path and walking paths are made smooth or straight, depending on the style and size of the site. The angles of their intersection should be smooth or approach straight lines - for ease of maintenance and for comfortable movement.

The direction of movement is thought out in advance so that you can easily get to any focal point

Design of garden paths

They start by preparing the base, then lay the covering and, if planned, install curbs; the material for the paths must be durable, soft and elastic when walking. In addition, it must have a rough surface so that you can move safely during rain or ice. To avoid stagnation of water on the paths, the coating is made with a slope of 2% from the center to the edges. Watercourses are also placed at a distance of 40 - 50 cm from the main road and 15 - 30 cm from the paths. If the terrain does not allow paths on both sides, you can make a slope in one direction. Standard width The main road is 1.2 - 2 m, the paths are from 40 to 70 cm wide.

Curbs

Necessary to strengthen the edges and give clarity to the boundaries of the paths. They are made of brick, stone, wooden blocks or concrete, and the material used does not necessarily have to match the texture of the path itself. The border is buried 10 - 15 cm into the ground, leaving about 10 cm of soil surface. If the site is sandy, you can make a border from natural stone. It is installed at a certain depth, covered with earth and compacted, while wetting it with water. On other pounds, a sand or concrete base is made. Wooden borders are prepared from logs with a diameter of 8-11 cm. They are pre-treated against rotting protective agent, and the upper cut is made oblique so that water does not stagnate on it.

Garden path materials

They must be combined with the materials from which the house and small architectural forms are made, as well as with the plants on the site. Upon registration road network natural and artificial materials are used. Natural coatings are made from untreated stone - sandstone, limestone, slate, granite, and processed stone - sawn or crushed basalt and pebbles. They make strong and wear-resistant slabs and paving stones. Porous materials and wooden cuts are treated with a special water-repellent agent before installation. Artificial turf has some advantages over natural material: it is cheaper and easier to install. In addition, due to the fact that artificial material is easy to process, it can be used to implement various design solutions.

Paths made of rubble, hewn or crushed cobblestones are durable and decorative. The base for them is calculated based on the operational load and the purpose of using the paths. The sandy base under flat stones is buried by 5 - 10 cm, under rubble - depending on the size of the largest stones. The gaps are filled with fine stones and filled with mortar, and the joints are made flush with the coating. Stone paths intended for the passage of cars are made on a concrete base. First, remove the soil to a depth of 20-30 cm, then fill it with crushed stone in a layer of 10-15 cm, compact it and moisten it with water. After this, concrete 5-10 cm thick is poured and the surface is leveled. The stone is placed on cement, the gaps are filled with mortar and expanded, and the mortar must be flush or higher than the stones so that cracks do not form after winter. Before use natural stone needs to be cleaned or washed.

To lay paths in this way, first remove the soil to a depth of 15 - 25 cm, then fill it with sand, spill it with water layer by layer and compact it. After this, wooden cuts 10–20 cm high are installed, and the gaps between them are filled with sand. In order for the tree to last longer, the underground parts must be pre-treated with a special antiseptic impregnation, tarred or charred. This will help protect the coating from moisture and rotting.

Modern paving slabs often imitates natural material, and convenient connections allow you to combine its various elements. This coating is easy to maintain, durable, does not heat up and does not emit harmful fumes, and excess moisture seeps through the tile seams. If the need arises, the tiles can be completely or partially dismantled and then re-installed. The base is prepared for such paths: for gravel-sand paths, 15 cm of gravel and 5 cm of sand are poured, and for concrete paths, depending on the purpose of the coating. Each layer is leveled and compacted. After laying, the seams are sprinkled with a dry mixture, the excess is removed and the slabs are spilled with water.

When constructing a monolithic concrete covering First, the paths are laid out. Then the top layer of soil is removed, and the remaining soil is compacted. The formwork is installed so that the upper edge protrudes 5-6 cm above the soil, and only then is leveled using a cord. At the joints of boards or bars, pegs are driven into the ground. Also, slats are installed perpendicular to the formwork, at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other, then a layer of sand and crushed stone is poured 10 cm deep, compacted and filled with concrete.

Concrete slab paths are created in two ways. The sand base is made 10-12 cm thick, the slabs are placed close to each other, with seams 0.5-0.7 cm. On the crushed stone base, the slabs are laid on the mortar, with seams 1-1.5 cm. The evenness of the seams is checked using a tensioned cord and building level. The front surface of the slabs should rise 3-4 cm above the ground, since over time the path will sag. Paving can be decorated with pebbles or ceramic tiles.

Paths made of clinker bricks are convenient and practical, as this material is wear-resistant and moisture-resistant. The brick is laid on a layer of sand or crushed stone using a mortar. Sand and crushed stone are poured into a prepared soil trough in a layer of 10 cm and compacted. If the area is swampy, peaty, with loess or subsidence soils, a reinforced concrete pad 8 cm thick is placed on top of the crushed stone. Then a prawn is laid and leveled. Next, lay the brick and, leveling it strictly horizontally using a building level, spill it with water. After setting, the masonry is covered with a layer of sand 2 cm thick, and the excess is removed. Along the edges of the paths, a border of bricks is installed, located at an angle or on an edge.

Step-by-step paths can be installed on the lawn. On the site, grass is cut out according to the size of the tiles and the material is installed below the grass level on sand or gravel. This will make mowing the lawn convenient. It is possible to install the tiles on a sand cushion. In this case, the seams are filled with earth and lawn grass is sown, while maintaining a distance between the centers of the tiles of about 60-65 cm.

Bulk paths are made of pebbles, stone chips, marble or granite screenings, bark or gravel. Gravel comes in different sizes and colors. It is advisable to fence embankment paths with a border, since, for example, tree bark can be blown by the wind, and crushed stone and gravel can creep away. Geotextiles are also laid on the base to protect the coating from root growth.

Bulk paths are made if they will not bear heavy loads, and various materials are used. The main advantage of bulk coatings is that water does not stagnate on them and that they can be very decorative.

We combine materials for garden paths

Garden paths can be made from different materials, combining them in size, color and texture, or using one type of material, but of different colors. An interesting texture is obtained by grouping large or small rectangular slabs with round, small slabs irregular shape, stones and wood.

Options for paving garden paths

In order for garden paths to last a long time, the covering material is chosen depending on their purpose. For example, for the entrance area and main roads, a concrete foundation reinforced with a road mesh is installed. For secondary paths, a soft base is sufficient, since the load on them is minimal.

Laying hard materials on a crushed stone bed

First, a layer of crushed stone with sand 12-15 cm thick is poured, then a layer of gritsovka 7-10 cm thick is poured. Each of them is carefully compacted, then the tiles are laid. The gaps between the tiles are filled with grout and watered.

Laying hard materials on a crushed stone bed

Laying wooden cuts on a soft base

Crushed stone is poured into the prepared base with a depth of 20-25 cm, and a layer of sand 7-10 cm thick is poured on top. Each layer is compacted and saw cuts 3-5 cm thick are laid. The space between the cuts is filled with sand or earth.

Laying wooden cuts on a soft base

Laying soft stones on a concrete base

To lay paths, you can use flagstone made of dolomite, sandstone or limestone. The gaps between the plates should be no larger than 5 mm. The best binding material in this case is cement strainer with the addition of special glue.

Laying soft stones on a concrete base

Laying rigid materials on a concrete base

On top concrete base pour in slightly moistened prance. Each tile is temporarily laid in place, then removed and poured thin layer cement. The elements are re-laid, tamped, and the seams are covered with a bead and watered.

Laying rigid materials on a concrete base

Design personal plot V country house It’s impossible to imagine without beautifully designed paths. Garden paths not only serve functional role, visually delimiting zones (lawns for games, flower beds, decorative plantings, etc.), but they themselves serve as a decorative element. To increase the service life of the coating and to accentuate the paths, curbs are used, which can be made from various materials. The type of border is determined overall design garden and the shape of the paths. Some curbs may protrude significantly, while others are barely noticeable. In any case, their presence is mandatory. This article will focus on borders for garden paths.

Types and features of curbs for paths

The following borders are used to design garden paths: plastic, metal, concrete and brick, wood, wicker, stone, and living plants. Each type has its own characteristics and difficulties in application. To choose a specific material, you need to focus on the style of the tracks ( a natural stone, paving slabs, cement coating, crushed stone, wood flooring) and the proposed installation technique.

• Plastic curbs the most versatile, harmonizes well with different styles. Big choice color design allows you to create original design. They are indispensable when edging curved paths with flexible, smooth lines. The advantages of plastic are its high durability and corrosion resistance, as well as the relatively affordable cost of the material. For self-installation plastic borders are best suited as they are very easy to install.
• Metal borders made from of stainless steel or, as a more expensive option, made of copper and aluminum. Suitable for designing smooth paths with straight turns. They go well with their crushed stone paths.
• Concrete curbs They look good only with straight paths. When installing, they require certain skills, and the process itself will take a little longer than in other cases.
• Brick borders quite common and easy to install. Used as a horizontal arrangement facing bricks, and laying with a slope (in the form of teeth). This type of edging can hardly be called practical and durable. In areas with heavy and frequent rainfall, brick quickly deteriorates and crumbles. Nevertheless, this material goes perfectly with paving stones and looks especially advantageous in a design made in the English style.

Border photo

• Wooden borders are considered the least durable. They require annual maintenance, which consists of priming and painting. Untreated boards or old slats should not be used for these purposes. Such savings will quickly remind you of themselves. Average term The service life of wooden borders does not exceed 10 years. However, this is the cheapest and simplest design option. Such borders are usually used in rustic style or, if desired, create a distinctly simple design.
• Wicker borders They are made from willow branches and serve rather a decorative function. They will not be able to become an obstacle to lawn grass or block the flow of rainwater. This romantic design is more suitable for flower beds or simple garden paths.
• A natural stone is a leader in design. It is both practical and decorative material. Only its price can repel many connoisseurs of natural beauty. To make borders, shell rock (cheaper), sandstone, granite and marble are used. An alternative could be various artificial imitations of natural stone.

• Hedges will always remain favorites in landscape design. There is a list of special border flowering or ornamental plants. These include perennial low-growing and beautifully flowering bergenia, bellflower, canna, primrose, gaillardia, hellebore, hosta, kniphofia and many others. Creating living borders is quite interesting. It is important to consider color contrast and plant architecture.

Installation of plastic curbs for paths

• Laying plastic borders does not require significant preparatory work associated with digging a trench, concreting the base or spreading non-woven material.
• They start by determining the contours of the path and the desired height of the curb. Manufacturers provide with outside element hole for fastening pegs or anchors. This fastening reliably fixes the curb and does not require special devices, except for a hammer for driving in metal stakes.

• The plastic easily fits and bends, repeating the most masterly curves. When the curbs are secured, the paths are laid. If gravel, paving stones or stone are used, the border can be completely hidden to create a contrasting line with greenery and flowers. In this case, the structure will reliably perform its functions of protecting the coating.

Installation of concrete curbs

• Concrete curbs are designed to withstand high loads, so their installation requires strong fixation.
• First, a trench is dug along the contour of the path (its depth will depend on the depth level concrete stones). Next, the trenches are filled with a solution (one part cement and 3 parts sand), leveled and stones are immersed in it close to the edge of the path. The solution should not be too liquid, as the stone will float and it will be impossible to fix it.

• After installing several stones, you will need to return to the first one and begin fixing it with an additional layer of cement at several points. Ideally, the curb should protrude by 5 cm. After the solution hardens, the outer side of the trench is covered with earth or sand. This design will last a long time, maintaining its original appearance.
• You can use self-made stones for the border, but it is better to purchase ready-made elements with a guarantee of quality from the manufacturer.

Laying natural stone borders

• This type of border does not require a trench, but you will need to remove a thin layer of soil to lay the non-woven material.
• Directly on the “bedding” they are placed tightly large stones. Large gaps between them are filled with smaller pebbles. Finally, all voids are filled with dry cement.

• At first glance, such work seems simple and uncomplicated. However, it requires certain skills and patience.

General rules for installing borders

• In order for the path to retain its shape and aesthetic appearance for a long time, it is necessary to avoid gross mistakes when installing curbs. So where do you start work, and what stages can be identified?
• When marking the contours of the path, stakes are driven in, along which a construction cord is pulled; it will indicate the upper boundary of the curb element. When installing each subsequent element of the curb, you should check its correct level position.
• It is undesirable to fill cracks in structures with cement, as this can lead to expansion and disruption of the integrity of the curb under the influence of water and frost. It is safer if water does not linger in small spaces.

Original do-it-yourself borders

• To independently cast concrete curb elements, special polymer molds are purchased. The length of garden forms does not exceed 50 cm, which is very convenient for subsequent installation. Sold on the market garden forms the most different configurations and sizes. They are suitable for reusable use if a 3% solution was used to wash them of hydrochloric acid. Mechanical cleaning from concrete residues in case of sticking is not allowed.

• By purchasing molds for casting, you can significantly save on arranging your personal plot, since ready-made border elements are much more expensive. However self-production will take a lot of time and require knowledge proper preparation solution.
• For concrete mixture They use high-grade cement (preferably 500), with four parts sand for one part of cement. Water is added to the consistency of village sour cream. For uniform and quick mixing, it is better to use a concrete mixer. If you want to get a painted border, you can add a special dye to the solution. The result will be a truly original design.
• When pouring the solution into molds, it is necessary to ensure that air bubbles are removed, which reduce the strength of the product. The casting platform must be perfectly level (checked by level) and free of foreign objects. After a few hours, the solution will harden and you can carefully release the molds for a new batch. A day later, after additional drying, the borders are ready for installation.

• The clear contours of the paths should be combined with the design of flower beds and play areas. Filling forms allow you to come up with different color solutions, delimiting zones while maintaining style.
• The design and installation of borders requires creative approach. Even inexpensive material and simple design can look very attractive if everything is selected and done with taste. If time permits, you can do all the work yourself. Hiring specialists, the owner country house expands styling options and the flight of your fantasies, but this will require additional funds.

There are many options for edging garden paths; all you need to do is use a little creativity to create a unique, harmonious fairy garden design. Well-groomed, clean paths without soil from the site will delight both the owner and anyone who decides to walk along them.