Do-it-yourself installation of an air conditioner in an apartment. How to install the air conditioner yourself - step by step instructions

Installing an air conditioner is not an easy task, but it is doable! At each stage, many questions arise. This is complicated by the fact that it is impossible to give one standard scheme - each case is individual. If you don’t know where to start the installation, in what sequence to perform the operations, then this article is for you!

After that, you can fit the indoor unit to the fixed plate (but do not snap the bottom clips to the plate!). Mark the bottom corners of the body with a pencil. Then remove the block from the plate.

1. We mark where the hole in the outer wall will be.

Carefully cut through the wallpaper and beat off the plaster at the drilling point. If the installation is direct or as in the photo above, then you need to make the so-called "entry" to the hole (where the tubes will go into the wall). So that in this place the bend of the "route" is smooth.

• for brick or concrete walls you will need a large hammer drill and a drill with a pobedite tip. Drill the first 2-3 cm of the wall without tilting (in a straight line) so that the drill enters the wall a little. Then be sure to tilt down. During this operation, it is better to use an industrial vacuum cleaner.
• it is better to drill a wooden wall with a drill with a feather drill with a diameter of 45 mm. The process will go slowly but surely. Do not forget about the downward slope of the hole.
• it is better to drill a metal profile or “sandwich” with a 45mm bimetallic crown. Also, do not forget about the downward slope of the hole.

1. If the “route” of the air conditioner needs to be pulled through just one hole in the wall, then you can proceed as follows:

We conveniently position the indoor unit and connect materials to it:

• . Open the front cover of the case and find the pads. We drag the cable through the back of the case. We write down the terminal numbers and the colors of the cores that are connected to them;
  
• unscrew the nuts (or plugs) of the tubes with two keys. Usually, air is released at the same time - we are not afraid and make sure that the plug does not fly off anywhere! Further you will need a device such as rolling.
  We roll and connect the tubes, having previously studied how this is done.
  Experience is needed to tighten the nuts with high quality (if you don’t reach them, the freon will “leave”, if you overtighten, you can break the thread). To do this, someone uses a special torque wrench;
  
• we tightly connect the drain hose to the indoor unit;
• if there is an additional wire in the kit for the air conditioner, then we connect it to the intended terminal (you will see it).

1. When the tubes are still without thermoflex, we can gently bend them under the hole (if the “installation is straight”). For "side mounting" we cut out the cap of the case.
   
2. We put thermoflex on both tubes. All tubes (including their nut connection) must be hermetically wrapped in thermoflex so that condensation does not form on the tubes. For fixing it is better to use a special tape.
   
3. We compactly lay the “route” inside the block and fix it with tape. Do not forget about the "power" cable (we bring it out where you need it). Also make sure the drain hose is at the bottom.
   

In one compact tourniquet we form the following materials:

1. With the help of a partner, we drag the indoor unit with the “route” through the hole in the wall. We hang it on the plate, but do not snap the lower clips!
   
2. We bring the power cable to the right place inside the room (but do not connect it!). If required, we close the "route" inside the room with a cable channel. Fasten the lower clips of the block.
   
3. We throw the external unit on the brackets and fasten it securely. The "track" from the outside is carefully brought to the taps of the external unit.
   
4. We unscrew the nuts of the taps of the external unit (see that nothing gets into the open fittings). We put the nuts on the tubes, after which we roll them. We fasten the copper pipes to the fittings.
   
5. We connect the interconnect cable in the same way as to the indoor unit. If an additional wire is included with the air conditioner, then we connect it to the appropriate block. We connect the “power” cable if, according to the diagram, it goes to the external unit.
   
6. Further pressure gauges and a vacuum pump are required(pressure gauges must match the type of freon). Be careful here:

• we connect the LEFT hose of the pressure gauge to the fitting of the outdoor unit (to which a large diameter tube fits). We connect the MIDDLE hose of the pressure gauge to the vacuum pump;
  
• start the pump and open the LEFT valve on the pressure gauge (counterclockwise);

By controlling the microclimate of personal space, we create conditions that are optimal for rest, work, and classes. Installing a split system will allow you to set a favorable level of temperature and humidity in the simplest way. Agree, in the summer period there are many days that need to be regulated by climatic parameters.

After reading the article we have proposed, you will learn all the details and subtleties of the installation of air conditioning equipment. Carefully selected and systematized information will be useful both for independent home masters and for customers of installers' services to check proper execution.

We describe in detail the installation process, lists the nuances of the location and fastening of the blocks. The materials required for the installation and connection of the units are listed. A valuable addition to the text, which facilitates the perception of information, are photo and video applications.

When studying information on how to properly install a split system in a private house or apartment, you first need to choose the location of its parts.

To do this, it is necessary to take into account the direction of distribution of the flow of cold / hot air in the room, taking into account the basic technical requirements specified by the equipment manufacturer in the instructions.

The most common options for the location of the indoor unit of the split system are above the bed / sofa. Outdoor - usually taken out into the street and installed on a site near a window or on balcony slabs

There are certain rules that must be taken into account when choosing a block placement point:

• the distance between the unit and the ceiling should be at least 15-20 cm, although some manufacturers indicate 20-30 cm in the instructions;
• from the side to the wall - not less than 30 cm;
• to a barrier that will impede the flow of outgoing air or dissipate it - at least 150 cm.

For the outer part of the split system, the location is chosen based on the bearing capacity of the walls. Installation is possible near the window, on the plates enclosing the loggia, or on the wall next to the balcony.

For those who live on the lower floors, the installation of the block is carried out above the window - as far as possible from passers-by.

Based on the technical requirements for the wall of the ventilation facade used as a platform for fixing the outdoor unit of the split system - the possible load capacity should be 2.5 times the mass of the installation unit

For a multi-storey building, especially if the apartment is located on the top floor, it will be necessary to involve high-rise specialists or determine the installation point as close as possible to the window, which will provide easy access during installation.

Determining the distance between blocks

Often the choice of equipment location is regulated by the minimum and maximum distance between its parts. These indicators are mainly indicated by the manufacturer and depend on the model range and characteristics.

Sometimes firms do not indicate the minimum length of the circuit between two units, so installation can be done arbitrarily.

The minimum distance between Daikin split system blocks is 1.5-2.5 m, Panasonic - up to 3 m. However, if the blocks are located a meter apart, the length of the route should be at least 5 m (its excess is rolled into a ring and hidden behind the block)

It is a little easier to deal with the maximum possible distance between the two units. The standard indicator is 5 m. It is also possible to increase the length of the route, but in this case it is necessary to count on additional costs due to the need to refuel with freon.

Preparation for work

The decision to start installing a split system on your own comes, as a rule, after clarifying the prices from specialists. Incredibly high amounts for the performance of the work, which takes 3 hours, are argued by the presence of expensive tools and its wear and tear during operation. This is what makes up the bulk of the fee for the services of the master.

If the prices from split system installers are too high, you should do the installation yourself, having thoroughly studied the technology of this type of work

If you look at the recommendations of equipment manufacturers, then often the instructions indicate that the preparatory work can be done on your own, but for the installation of pipelines, connection to the electrical network, and the vacuuming process, it is advisable to invite specialists with the appropriate tools.

Hardware installation tools

It is possible to carry out independent installation of the cooling unit, because. most of the tools are in the suitcase of the home master. An exception may be a vacuum pump, but it is not necessary to buy it - it will be possible to make such a unit from old parts.

Some teams of masters do not even use this equipment when laying a route up to 6 m long.

If, when installing the air conditioner yourself, it was not possible to find a vacuum pump, an alternative would be a powerful compressor from an old refrigerator or an aquarium blower

During the installation process, an important aspect is the observance of the horizontal position of the block systems. In connection with these requirements, each stage of work must be accompanied by a control check by the building level.

If a tool is not available, it can be rented from a hardware store.

The following equipment will need to be prepared in advance:

1. Perforator. It is used to make holes in the facade, through which a route will be laid, generalizing the external and internal blocks.
2. Drill with a set of drills. Used for mounting fasteners.
3. Pipe cutter for cutting copper pipes.
4. Device for removing burrs after cutting pipes. You can use a reamer, file and sandpaper.
5. Roller of copper pipes.

Some believe that the use of a reamer does not make sense, especially if the new one does not leave burrs and dents, but in vain.

Only after the beveler has been manipulated, the edge of the flared tube can be pressed as tightly as possible with the nut, and, accordingly, freon leakage is unlikely.

The work of the device for expanding copper pipes is carried out by the method of deformation of the tube according to the selected pattern, as a result of which a cone is formed. At the same time, the original wall thickness and round section are preserved.

According to the technical installation rules, a vacuum pump is required - the air conditioning system is sealed with this equipment. After filling the line with refrigerant, the process of evacuation is carried out.

Purchase of necessary materials

You will need a lot of components, but they are all easily available in any specialized store. Do not forget that the materials must be of the highest quality and selected exclusively for a device that is functionally aimed at cold.

It is necessary to purchase a wire for supplying power and connecting the units. The required parameters are always indicated in the passport or in the equipment installation instructions.

Standard is a four-core power cable with a cross-sectional area of ​​2 mm 2 or 2.5 mm 2. The length is selected based on the distance of the route, taking into account a small margin.

You will also need to prepare thick-walled seamless pipes made of soft copper, designed for cooling appliances. Pipes are selected smaller and larger diameters. For more specific specifications, please refer to the user manual.

The length is equal to the length of the route plus an additional margin of up to 30 cm. During the transportation of the tubes, their edges must be plugged to protect against dust settling inside the product.

Pipes are selected exclusively for the cooling system, their soft copper alloy lends itself well to flaring and ensures proper tightness

Foam rubber insulation is used to insulate pipes. They sell it in segments of 2 m. To implement measures for thermal insulation, a length equal to the length of the route will be required. Synthetic insulation is used on two pipe diameters.

As a drainage tube, experts recommend installing a corrugated hose equipped with a plastic spiral inside. You can also use an alternative part - a polypropylene tube. Its length is equal to the length of the track with a surcharge of 80 cm.

You will also need two L-type brackets to secure the unit from the outside. The suitable size of the parts is determined by its dimensions, and the margin of safety for the bearing load must exceed its weight by 5 times. Such an increase in the maximum allowable stress of the part is required to compensate for the loads of wind and snow.

It is better to buy these components in a company that sells spare parts for household split systems.

After purchasing the bracket for mounting the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, do not make additional holes in it, because. this significantly reduces the margin of safety of the part

As fastening parts are used: anchors, dowels and bolts. Their number, type and parameters are selected based on the type of brackets and mounting plate intended for the indoor unit.

The type of walls where the outer part of the system is to be mounted also matters. To camouflage the laid communication line, you will need a plastic box with standard dimensions of 60 * 80 cm.

Split system installation procedure

Installing an air conditioning system on your own is a very real task, however, there are many nuances in the work and they relate to certain models, so the installation process may have some differences. To study all the requirements, you must first read the instructions specifically for the purchased equipment model.

Stage # 1 - installation of outdoor and indoor units

The indoor unit is to be installed first. Having decided on the location of its location, the area for the mounting card is marked on the wall. After drilling backlashes, plastic plugs for dowels are inserted, a card is hung and fixed with dowels.

The most thorough fastening should be done at the bottom of the plate, because. on this site are the latches that hold the block

After installing the cassette, using the building level, the exposure to the strict horizontal placement of the future block is measured. In case of any discrepancy, it will be necessary to redo all the work performed.

At this stage, preparatory work for laying the tracks is coming. First, the line of its location is calculated. Then a hole is drilled in the facade wall, taking into account the required slope of more than 1/100.

Also, a hole with a diameter of 5 cm is drilled with a slope, while the angle of inclination can be increased in comparison with the route. So, the formed condensate will better leave the system.

When choosing a back-to-back mounting scheme for the units, it is required to check the hole designed to accommodate the power cable. To do this, check the location of the power ports on the units.

And now it is the turn of the installation of the outdoor unit. If we are talking about a multi-storey building, then you will need special equipment for high-altitude work.

As in the first case, the strict horizontal position of the block must be maintained, therefore, a level is also used at the markup stage.

When positioning the outdoor unit, the limitation regarding its slope must be taken into account - the maximum allowable slope angle is 45°

At the time of installation of fasteners, each existing hole must be filled with anchor bolts (standard diameter 10 * 100 mm), regardless of their number. After that, the outdoor unit is exposed and also fixed with fasteners.

Stage # 2 - laying a communication line

With the help of an electric wire and two copper tubes, the connection between the outdoor and indoor units is carried out. Additionally, a drainage system will be laid through the wall, which is responsible for removing condensate. These elements must be properly selected, connected, laid and secured.

First, you should prepare the copper pipes by cutting the desired length with a pipe cutter and treating the edges with a reamer from burrs and dents after the cutting procedure.

It is not recommended to use other tools such as a file. After its application, metal chips get inside the tube, which will circulate through the system and eventually lead to the failure of the compressor.

To lead copper pipes through the wall, their edges must be insulated with a plug to protect against dust

Thermal insulation of tubes is carried out by putting polyurethane foam hoses on them. Foam rubber cannot be chosen as a sealant - it has a short service life. After completing the measures for thermal insulation, all the connecting sections of the material are tightly glued with metallized adhesive tape.

Now it was the turn to lay the drainage and cable. For each wire you need to put on a special tip. They are installed on conductors cleared of insulating material and crimped with tongs.

The finished cable is connected to the air conditioner according to the diagram given in the manual for the device.

On both units, in the area slightly above the ports, there is a removable plate for connecting copper pipes. Under it there are electrical connectors for the cable.

The drain tube is connected to a special outlet on the indoor unit and is led out through a hole in the wall. The tube must be long enough and end at least 60 cm from the wall.

According to the rules, its laying is carried out at an angle to the exit to the outside. Requires fixing with clamps every meter of length to eliminate sagging in order to prevent the accumulation of condensate.

Stage # 3 - connecting the system blocks

Communications carried out through the wall are connected to the corresponding ports. It is important to remember that the total length of the drainage pipeline cannot be more than 20 m. Copper pipes are laid in a loop to trap oil, which is contained in a small amount in freon.

Drainage can be diverted in two ways: bring it into the sewer or into the street. The first method is technically correct, however, due to the complexity of reproduction, it is not widely used.

When laying the drain pipe, it is better to avoid sharp turns, sagging is also not allowed - condensate will accumulate in these areas

At the bottom of the indoor unit of the system is a tube with a plastic tip. A corrugated hose is put on it and tightened at the junction with a clamp.

For the outer part of the device, a similar procedure is performed, but many people ignore it. If a polymer pipe is used instead of a hose, an appropriate adapter is selected. With it, connect the output of the block and the tube.

To connect copper pipes, you need to initially lay them along the wall using a pipe bender. If such a tool is not available, then we suggest that you read the article, which describes in detail how to bend a pipe without special equipment. Read more - read.

The tubes must be given the necessary slope without kinks and a sharp crease. First of all, they are connected to the indoor unit. To do this, loosen the nuts on the respective ports.

When unwinding, a characteristic hissing sound of escaping nitrogen will be heard. It is pumped at the time of production to eliminate the oxidation of parts. After lowering it, it is necessary to remove the plugs and unscrew the nut completely. Next, the rolling procedure is performed.

During the flaring process, the pipe is held with the hole down to prevent metal chips from entering the system.

The edges of the pipes in a section of 5 cm are aligned. Then flaring is carried out to ensure the connection of the input and output of the blocks. This will create a closed circulation system. The correctness of the installation plays an important role in acquiring the properties of maximum tightness, in the process of moving freon.

The flared end of the pipe is connected to the required outlet and fixed with a nut. It is forbidden to use any additional devices here - sealants, gaskets, etc. The applied copper tubes provide the necessary sealing.

When connecting copper pipes, it is necessary to apply a force of 60 kg, only then the copper will solidly compress the fitting, and the contact will be tight

Similar actions are done with all four ports. After connecting, the last stage of the installation of the air conditioning system follows - the elimination of air and moisture, as well as possible argon residues that could accumulate during the installation process.

Stage #4 - evacuation of the system

During installation work, air enters the air conditioner tubes and if it is not removed, it will end up in the air conditioning system. The result is an increased load on the compressor, respectively, its rapid heating.

Also, water particles adversely affect all details. Freon contains a proportion of lubricating oil, its hygroscopic consistency becomes less effective when it comes into contact with water. As a result, the wear of components will accelerate.

Two methods can be used to remove air: a vacuum pump or a small amount of freon liquid that descends from a block located outside. In the manufacture of the outdoor unit, manufacturers with little surplus.

The “puff” method is repeated several times, while the second attempt is made with the top valve. If the length of the route is 2-3 m - the procedure is carried out 3 times, with a four-meter - 2 times

An alternative to an expensive vacuum pump is to release excess freon from the outdoor unit system. To do this, the plugs are unscrewed on its valves. It is necessary to work with a lower port of a larger diameter. Under its cover is a hexagon socket. Based on its parameters, the appropriate key is selected.

Using a suitable key, turn the valve 90 ° and after a second return it to its previous position. Thus, a small amount of freon enters the system and increased pressure is created. With a second finger pressure on the spool located on the same port, excess freon and gases are released from the system.

After complete removal of air, the spool outlet is screwed with a plug, and the valves open completely and freon enters the split system. To check the tightness of the joints, they are coated with soapy foam.

It is worth remembering that with independent, minor factors do not exist. And everything that was done incorrectly, for example, rolling pipes without stripping the rim, or an insufficiently fixed connection, ultimately leads to rapid wear of the components of the cooling system. Therefore, during the installation process, you need to be extremely careful in all details.

If you have the necessary experience or knowledge in the issue of installing split systems, please share it with our readers. Perhaps you know some subtleties that we did not mention in this material? Leave your comments, ask questions in the block below.

Installing a split system is a difficult job, and sometimes, frankly, it’s even creepy to watch the process of installing an external air conditioner unit on the wall of some high-rise building. But there is nothing supernatural in this work, and below it will be told how to install the air conditioner yourself, however, you will probably need an assistant.

Tools and consumables

Installing an air conditioner yourself will require the use of expensive tools. This primarily applies to the vacuum pump, the simplest version of which costs a couple of hundred dollars. This equipment can be rented, asked from a friend of the master, etc., because it is very difficult to properly install the air conditioner without it. True, looking ahead, let's say that it is possible to do without a vacuum pump, there will be no guarantee of quality.

So, you will need the following materials for installation:

1. The vacuum pump we just talked about.
2. A professional SDS+ rotary hammer with a power of at least 750 W with a drill with a diameter of 22 mm, but it is better to use a special industrial rotary hammer with a 40 mm drill, then you do not have to drill two holes in the wall.
3. The puncher will also require 6x60 mm drills for mounting the indoor unit and 12x200 mm for mounting the outdoor unit.
4. Good rolling preferably with a polished cone. Otherwise, when rolling, you will definitely cut copper dust and shavings, which will disable the compressor.
5. Pipe cutter. Pipes cannot be cut with a regular hacksaw. The reason, again, is the large amount of chips formed and the uneven edges of the cutoff point, due to which it will be impossible to perform high-quality flaring, and the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands will be performed poorly.
6. A pair of brackets with a weight capacity of up to 60 kg for attaching the outdoor unit.
7. Copper tubes for arranging the route with a diameter of 3/8 and 1/4 inches - this is for household air conditioners of small power 7 and 9 BTU / h (British thermal unit, the number is indicated on the package). More powerful devices use other diameters.
8. Spongy special insulation for thick and thin copper pipes.

You will also need a plastic drainage tube, aluminum tape for winding pipes behind the wall, a 60x80 mm box for the track in the apartment, as well as a level and other installation materials, usually always in stock.

More about the air conditioner device

To understand how to install the air conditioner yourself, you need to understand some of the details of the device and the principle of operation of the air conditioner. The main element is the outdoor unit and, accordingly, the compressor. into it freon has already been pumped at the plant to fill a five-meter route, although self-respecting installers usually take a refrigerant bottle with them just in case. You can read about how to fill the air conditioner.

There are two fittings on one side of the outdoor unit.

On one you can see a couple of nuts:

• the first, with a copper or plastic plug - for connecting a thin copper tube of the route;
• the second, deaf, under which the control valve with a valve for a hexagon is hidden - by turning it, freon is launched into the system after the installation of the air conditioner is completed with your own hands.

The second fitting has three nuts:

• with a plug - for connecting a thick copper tube;
• a blind nut under which there is a valve;
• the third, located in the opposite direction of the highway, hides the filling port.

It is connected to the system until the control valve is turned and is used for topping up and measuring the pressure of the refrigerant. When installing the air conditioner with our own hands, we will use it - it will be needed to connect the vacuum pump.

Brass nuts with a cone connect ports to copper pipes without any gaskets - tightened with a force of 70-80 kg, it completely presses the copper to the cone hermetically. These nuts can be slightly loosened, but the plugs cannot be removed - nothing should get inside. Next, we will tell you how to install the air conditioner yourself.

Mounting the indoor unit

It is better to mount it closer to the outer wall, so that installing the air conditioner with your own hands is not accompanied by laying a long route. Thirty centimeters must be left from the ceiling for the indoor unit so that nothing interferes with the air intake.

The metal mounting frame of the device is mounted horizontally in level. Next, you need to decide where the box will be, for which you can attach the indoor unit to the frame. Drainage will go through the box to remove condensate, so it should be placed under a slope, but a small one - about 5 mm per 30 cm of length.

Difficult stage

After completing the installation of the indoor unit and marking where the box will go to the outer wall, you can start drilling the hole out. You can use a powerful professional puncher, but you will have to drill not one, but two, and in some cases even three holes.

Drainage will be output to the bottom, electrical wiring and copper pipes to the top. For obvious reasons, both holes should be drilled at an angle - the same or even steeper than that of the box. At the end of the work, communications should be stretched.

Outdoor unit installation

It is installed on the outer wall. If there is an open balcony - great, installing an air conditioner in winter will even be safe. On the loggia, the air conditioner can be mounted on the front or side, which is usually in the shade. The rules for installing an air conditioner prohibit installation inside a glazed balcony, or the windows must be open during its operation.

First, the brackets are attached - holes are marked and drilled, the first bracket is set according to the level, then the second. The distance between the mounting tabs of the outdoor unit must be measured in advance in order to know at what distance from each other to mount the brackets.

A block is installed and twisted on them. The route should have been stretched by this time. Copper pipes in concrete do not need to be insulated, but in other areas they must be insulated - stretch the sponge insulation pipes, rewind the joints with electrical tape, ensuring the tightness of the connection, otherwise the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands will be carried out poorly.

Assembly of the track

Brass nuts are unscrewed from the short tubes of the indoor unit and plugs are removed, copper tubes are connected. At the beginning of the process, a hiss will be heard - this is an inert gas pumped into the block at the factory to prevent corrosion.

Before installing the air conditioner yourself, it makes sense to practice cutting and flaring copper pipes, as this is a very responsible process. After the indoor unit, the outdoor unit should be connected to the route in the same way. At the same time, you do not need to be afraid of freon leakage - you have not yet opened the ports.

Vacuum system

Although the air conditioner is installed independently, a vacuum pump is still needed. It connects to the filling port and turns on for 15-30 minutes.

The main thing in this process is not the removal of air from the system (which happens literally in a minute), but the removal of moisture from the system, which is detrimental to the compressor.

Within a quarter of an hour, watch the pressure gauge needle, which should not “creep” back to zero. If the arrow is stationary, you can proceed to the next step, if not, then the tightness of the connections has not been achieved. In this case, before installing the air conditioner with your own hands, you need to find and fix the leak.

System start

1. Insert a hexagon into the control valve of the lower port (near the thick copper tube) and carefully turn it until it stops. Until this moment, the pump hose must not be disconnected!
2. After filling the route with freon, the filling port will be locked - the vacuum pump hose can be unscrewed.
3. In the same way, open the second port next to the thin tube on the top fitting.

When you mount the electrical part, start the air conditioner in cooling mode. After a few minutes, cold air will come out of the indoor unit.

Installation Secrets

By the way, installing an air conditioner in winter is also quite possible. True, the installation of an air conditioner in winter is carried out in less comfortable conditions, but you need to be more careful that snow or water does not get into the line during work. But it is better to open the valves and let freon into the system at a positive temperature - the rubber seal of the valve “dubs” and may fail.

In conclusion, we will tell you how to install the air conditioner yourself without a vacuum process and, accordingly, without a pump. This is possible on a hot summer day when the air is very dry. To do this, the nut on the thin copper pipe must not be completely tightened, and then very slowly open the control valve near the thick pipe.

Freon will displace air with its pressure, but you need to accurately catch the moment when cold freon comes out from under the nut on a thin tube and quickly tighten it. This method, we repeat, is wrong, especially if the air conditioner is installed in winter, you will not be able to check the tightness of the connections, but in certain situations such an independent installation of the air conditioner is possible.

Video instruction

Below we present a video in which in five minutes the process of installing an air conditioner is described in some detail - installing an external unit, an internal one, connecting a route and filling the system with freon.

In contact with

In fact, it is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. However, even the most reliable and very durable air conditioners will not work properly when installed incorrectly. Therefore, in the case of self-installation of the air conditioner, it is necessary to study the documentation and the correct installation diagram.

It all starts with the purchase of an air conditioner. Here, too, it is better to listen to specialists who can choose the best option. It is worth knowing that when choosing an air conditioner, many parameters should be taken into account - the size of the room, the thickness of the walls, the material from which the walls are made, thermal insulation, etc. Therefore, do not take into account the advice of non-specialists.

Methods for installing mobile and window air conditioners will not be considered due to the simplicity of operations. Consider the most difficult option -.

In general, the installation order is as follows:

• The choice of air conditioner;
• Study of documentation;
• Determination of the installation location of both units of the system;
• Punching a hole in the outer wall for laying a connecting route;
• Installation of a drainage system;
• Electric line laying;
• Determination of the length and collection of the pipeline for freon;
• Installation of wallpaper blocks;
• Connection of blocks with the route;
• Starting the system.

Now about all the stages in order. When the indoor unit of the system is correctly positioned, there should be at least 15 cm of free space on the side and top. There must be no obstacles in the way of the air flow. Also, you can not install air conditioning in front of beds, tables, workplaces.

The outdoor unit is also installed in compliance with certain rules, the implementation of which will allow you not to resort to air conditioner repair. So the location will be optimal on the right or under the window, but not less than three meters from the ground. It is also desirable that the distance between the outdoor and indoor units be as small as possible, because. this will make it easier to start the entire system, namely, it will be easier to remove moisture from the track.

With an assistant, we fix the outdoor unit at a distance of at least 10 cm from the wall on special brackets.

Indoors, approximately in the same area, the indoor unit is also attached. To do this, the mounting plate included in the kit must be attached to the wall and, which is very important, mark the fixing points strictly according to the level. After installing the plate, we attach the block itself to it.

After that, you need to temporarily fix the indoor unit and measure the route between the blocks and make a margin of about 30 cm. Then remove the block and prepare the route. It is necessary to straighten all the pipes and carefully cut the required length with a pipe cutter.

After that, it is necessary to put on the flex and nuts and roll the ends of the tubes. The flaring process is carried out with a vise with grooves for various tubes and a flaring cone.

After inserting the tube into a suitable groove, leave 1.5 - 2 mm outside for the roller.

After flaring, the tubes with dressed flexes should be tried on the spot to the tubes of the indoor unit, add drainage with wire and twist with adhesive tape into one route.

The track must be fixed to the indoor unit. Drainage should be put on the fitting. Then we connect the power (the contacts in the outdoor and indoor units are the same). The union nuts of the tubes are connected to the fittings and are carefully first tightened by hand, and then pulled with a wrench with maximum effort. But do not overdo it, you can break the thread.

The free ends of the tubes must be wrapped with tape so that debris does not get in, and pushed into the hole into the street.

After that, you can put the indoor unit on the mounting plate. We connect wires and tubes to the outdoor unit, and the drain tube remains hanging with a certain downward slope. All connections are made in the same way as connecting the indoor unit.

Before starting the air conditioner, it is imperative to remove moisture and air from the tubes. For this event, there are two ways - by connecting a vacuum pump and the "puff" method. The second method can only be used if the length of the track is a maximum of 3 meters.

Let's look at the second removal option. First, let's look at the design of ports for connection:

1. Liquid tube;

2. Gas tube;

3, 4. Valve covers;

5. Freon spool cap.

All covers must be unscrewed. Using a hexagon, you need to turn the valve (4) 90° for just a second and close again.

With this operation, we launch a small amount of freon into the tube. After that, you need to click on the spool (5) and bleed the mixture of freon and air, but not completely, in order not to let air in again. We do these manipulations 2-3 times, but no longer worth it in order to save freon.

If the length of the route is more than three meters, then a vacuum pump is required.

To remove air, it is necessary to connect the high-pressure hose to the vacuum pump with a fitting that does not have a pin, and a fitting that has a pin to the spool. After that, you need to turn on the pump for 10 minutes. then valve (4) we launch a small amount of freon into the route and the valve must be closed. We disconnect the hose from the spool as quickly as possible to avoid the release of all freon.

Please note that you must wear protective gloves when disconnecting the hose. Freon has a temperature of -40 ° and can cause injury.

After disconnecting the hose, the valves can be fully opened (3,4) and check all connections of the route for leaks with soapy foam.

After DIY split system installation completed, it is necessary to close up the exit point of the route to the street with mounting foam. Recommended on both sides. And after it dries and trims, you can plaster.

Everything, the installation of the air conditioner is over.

Video. Installing a split system with your own hands

Problem: The main difficulty faced by the buyer of a split system is the problem of proper installation. Installation determines the quality and service life of the air conditioner by 90%. If errors are made during installation, then it is very difficult to correct them later.

Decision: Installation must be carried out by specialists licensed to install air conditioners, in compliance with the instructions and using special equipment. After installation, no debris, no dust, no boxes should remain in the room. The word "air conditioner" has taken root only in our country. This is actually a piece of the phrase air-condition, which in English means “air condition”. The air conditioner is used to maintain the desired temperature and humidity in the room. By ventilating the air, the air conditioner cleans it by passing the air flow through special filters.

Today we will talk about installing a more modern type of air conditioning system - a split system. What are the advantages of a split system over a "regular" air conditioner? The split system does not block natural light, like a “window”, which is cut into the window frame. This is the first difference. In addition, it does not depend on the house's general air conditioning system, if any (this is when one hefty unit stands somewhere in the basement and drives air throughout the house). And it differs from the "ordinary" air conditioner in that it consists of two blocks - external and internal. If there are more than two indoor units, then this is already called a “multi-split system”.

But let's agree: for simplicity of presentation, I will talk about the split system, calling it the word "air conditioner", which is more familiar to our ears.

First - repair, then - split

So, a split system (from the English word split - “split, split”) consists of two separate blocks: an internal (evaporator) and an external or external (condenser). The blocks are interconnected by electrical wires and two copper tubes through which the refrigerant (freon) flows. A plastic thin tube (drainage) also extends outward from the indoor unit - to remove condensed moisture. Ideally, it should be connected to a drain (sewer) pipe or to a special tank, but often it is simply taken out into the street, and then drops of water fall on the heads of passers-by (for how to properly drain, see below).

The principle of operation of the split system is as follows. If the room needs to be cooled, then from the heat exchanger of the external unit, freon enters the heat exchanger of the indoor unit through one copper tube. It is blown by a fan, as a result of which cold air comes out of the indoor unit. If the air in the room needs to be heated, then with the help of a heat pump, the external condenser turns into an evaporator, and the evaporator becomes a condenser. In addition to the condenser and evaporator, the split system includes a compressor, which is installed in the outdoor unit. The main function of the compressor is to compress freon to give this gas properties that significantly increase the efficiency of the air conditioner.

Split system:
1 - outdoor (external) block
2 - indoor wall unit

The indoor unit operates almost silently (for Daikin models, the noise level of some indoor units is 28 - 31 dB, and for Mitsubishi, when the engine is turned on at the lowest speed, it is 26 dB; a flying butterfly creates the same noise level). But the fan and compressor of an external device can “buzz” and louder.

According to the mounting method, indoor units are wall-mounted and floor-ceiling (floor-ceiling are called so because they can be attached to both the ceiling and the floor). There are also cassette and multi-zone indoor units, but we will talk about them next time.

In apartments, wall-mounted indoor units are most often installed. With the help of movable shutters of the wall unit, you can change the direction of the air flow. But the power of wall blocks is specially limited - otherwise a strong stream of cold air will simply “blow off” everything in its path. But if a room (for example, in an office) requires a more powerful air conditioner, a floor-to-ceiling unit is installed. It will allow you to direct a strong jet along the wall or ceiling and thus ensure an even distribution of temperature in the room.

Our advice: if the length of the room significantly exceeds its width, it is much more efficient to install a floor-to-ceiling air conditioner!

Split systems differ in power (cooling capacity) and design. The choice of design is at the discretion of the buyer. But about the power, you must definitely consult with a specialist. In doing so, you need to know:

1. The area (volume) of your premises.
2. Dimensions of the window, the direction of the world to which it goes.
3. The presence (absence) of blinds on the windows.
4. The number of constantly working equipment that generates heat (TV, computer, etc.).
5. The number of radiators in the rooms.
6. The number of people who are constantly in the room.
7. Is there forced ventilation?

Another tip: if the company where you want to buy an air conditioner didn’t ask you anything about it, then it’s better not to buy from them. Because there is a danger that you are offered a "typical not that." In reputable companies, before selling the air conditioner, the consultant, as a rule, travels to the place of the intended installation of the device, takes measurements and finds out all the necessary details. Then all this data is entered into the program, and only after that the computer selects the optimal model. So, for example, they work in the Aeroprof company specializing in Carrier air conditioners (USA), in the Meteomarket company (Daikin air conditioners) and the KlimatSS company (Hitachi air conditioners) ).

This is how the distribution of air flows from a wall-mounted indoor unit looks like

What else do you need to know? Experts advise INSTALLING A SPLIT SYSTEM BEFORE or DURING REPAIR, and not after all repairs have already been completed. Then you do not have to gouge and drill freshly painted and leveled walls to lay the electrical wiring for the air conditioner and strengthen the brackets for fixing the indoor unit. You can, of course, hide communications in external boxes, but this will not decorate the interior.

Moreover, installation work in a freshly renovated apartment is much more expensive, especially after renovation.

Now about other possible "ambushes". Very often mistakes begin even when buying an air conditioner. Wanting to save money, we go to the nearest store (or even to the market) and buy an air conditioner. So what? And that's all: we are one on one with him. At best, after carefully reading the instructions, we undertake to install it.

Meanwhile, installing a split system in an apartment is not at all the same as installing a refrigerator or TV: they say, they brought it home, put it in the chosen place, turned it on and it works! With air conditioning, such a room will not work. Air conditioning requires proper installation. This is exactly the case when it is impossible to save on installation. The better it is installed, the longer it will last. It is no coincidence that installation work is 18-30% of the cost of the unit.

I remember how one experienced and restrained-looking installer, answering my completely innocent question: where to start installing the air conditioner, suddenly got excited and yelled: “People! You are all smart! Each air conditioner is given an instruction in Russian, in which both installation and operating rules are described “for fools”, point by point. Read it, damn it, before sticking your hands in! Better yet, call the experts. And, alas, he is right.

Installation: where to start?

Split system installation diagram

1. Communications (in the strobe)
2. Drainage (in the gate)
3. Sewerage
4. Siphon
5. Electrical wiring - to the shield (in the strobe)
6. Hole in the wall, punched with an inclination of 1–3°

First stage: separate electrical wiring is carried out

To any, even a low-power (1.5 kW) air conditioner, it is necessary to carry out a separate electrical wiring and put a separate machine in the electrical panel. Because the old wiring may not withstand the load and, God forbid, catch fire. If, however, a separate wiring for the air conditioner is laid by specialist installers, the possibility of fire is reduced to almost zero.

Be especially vigilant if your house is older than 1990. In old houses, the wiring, alas, is not designed for the loads from the use of powerful electrical equipment. Installers remember the case when the owner of the apartment was forced to replace all the wiring because of the air conditioner: the old one simply could not stand it and constantly knocked out plugs.

Second stage: installation of the outdoor unit

To do this, installers drill holes for brackets, on which they then install the outdoor unit.

If you put it on an open balcony, then there is no problem: they attached it with bolts, the breeze blows it - and everything is in order (if the balcony is glazed, then the device will not have enough air to work and it will soon break). If you want to attach the unit to the wall, then you can not do without strong brackets. Moreover, they must withstand a weight several times greater than the weight of the block. On high floors, the "outdoor" is mounted from a machine equipped with a sliding ladder. Or they call climbers (if the installation goes above the 5th floor). Such calls are paid separately and cost from 60 to 150 dollars. And sometimes equipment is required in the form of a car with a fire escape-boom, and a climber.

External and internal (wall) units of the split-system "Kerrier"

If you live on the upper floors, then the outdoor unit can be placed on the roof. But keep in mind that the difference between the indoor and outdoor units in height should not exceed 3-20 meters (depending on the brand of air conditioner and model).

If your apartment is located on the first floor, I highly recommend hanging the outdoor unit above 1.8-2 meters above the ground and “hide” it in a cage. And they can steal it. At one of the firms we were told a story. A man came and ordered only an external unit. Managers were surprised: "Why don't you want a whole split system." - “Yes, I have an air conditioner inside, but the outer “box” was cut off yesterday. On the first floor, under the window hung. Regardless of the height at which the external unit is “screwed”, it is necessary to make a metal visor above it. This will save the block from snow and icicles, which in the spring tend to fall from the roofs, breaking everything in their path.

In general, installing an outdoor unit is a responsible matter. If it is loosely fastened, it can fall down ... on someone. During the warranty period, the company that installed the air conditioner is responsible for the consequences of this. And then you will be responsible.

What can not be done with the outdoor (outdoor) unit?

There are space limitations for installing the outdoor unit:

1. The surface of the wall on which the block will be installed must be strong (otherwise it may collapse under the weight of the block) and smooth (otherwise the block will vibrate and deform).
2. Do not bend the tubes with refrigerant (freon) several times in a small area and unscrew their connections (this will lead to a refrigerant leak). If the tubes are twisted into a ring with a radius of less than 100 mm, then it will be more difficult for the compressor to pump freon.

Third stage: installation of the indoor unit

Air conditioner control panel

Installers fasten special brackets to the wall (if the unit is wall-mounted) or ceiling (if the unit is ceiling-mounted) with screws and install blocks on them. After that, it is necessary to check the strength of the fastening (does the structure stagger? Does it vibrate when the air conditioner is turned on?). Otherwise, sooner or later, the whole structure may simply collapse on your head.

But for the floor unit, special fasteners are not required. He, as they say, "stands on foot." You just need to immediately choose a place for it (when choosing a place, keep in mind that the unit does not blow on the curtains or on the wall and stand away from the heat source). And although the block is not attached to the floor, but after laying all the communications, it is no longer possible to move it from place to place.

So, the indoor unit cannot be installed:

1. ... above a heat source (for example, above a battery). Otherwise, the air conditioner will work for cooling “until the pulse is lost” and will fail very quickly. Imagine that you opened the door of the refrigerator, and it will cool not only the chamber, but the whole room. It will "work" and fail by the end of the day. The same will happen with the air conditioner. In addition, the heat from the room battery may deform the plastic housing of the unit.
2. ... in rooms where devices with high-frequency electromagnetic oscillations are constantly working (for example, a drill, a drilling machine). High-frequency vibrations can "knock down" the chip (processor) installed inside the air conditioner.
3. ... directly above the bed or workplace, otherwise there is a danger of constantly catching a cold or, worse, getting pneumonia.
4. …where air circulation will be difficult, such as behind curtains, etc. The distance to the obstacle should not be less than 3 meters. Otherwise, the air conditioner, which maintains the set temperature automatically, will fail. The cooled (or heated) air flow from the air conditioner will be reflected from the obstacle and will return back with the same temperature with which it “came out”. The air conditioner will decide that the work has been done, the desired climate is set and turn off. This is exactly what happened to my friends. Their air conditioner constantly “got confused in the curtains” and turned off before it had time to bring the room temperature to the set one. I had to call specialists and reinstall the system.
5. ... with a skew - then water (condensate) will flow out of it onto the floor, which, according to the installation rules, must be discharged through a drainage pipe into a special reservoir (see our certificate of drainage). Fourth stage: chasing walls or floors

In order to connect the electrical wires and freon tubes between the air conditioner units, installers punch gutters in the walls or on the ceiling (or, as the installers say, you need to “probe the line”). This is done if you want to make a hidden highway. Sometimes you have to “stroke”, for example, not the walls, but the floor of the apartment.

Don't want to ditch? Then you can hide the wires in decorative plastic boxes (sometimes the boxes are removed under the plinth). But before that, installers will have to connect two copper pipes (for refrigerant) and "ends" of electrical wiring between the outdoor and indoor units. Make sure the installers do this with the connection fittings. And in a pre-punched hole in the outer wall, they laid a “waterproof glass” with a connecting hose.

Installers come to the site with all the necessary equipment, communications are laid in the strobe, the drainage tube is placed in the strobe at a slope

After that, they must carry out the so-called evacuation of communications, and be sure to do so for 50 minutes (it is during this time that “extra” air and moisture will come out of the communications). This manipulation is done with the help of special equipment.

And keep in mind - for the drainage tube, as a rule, they make a separate hidden line (in the wall or under the floor).

Fifth stage: checking the operation of the system using a special program

At this stage, installers must turn on the split system (air conditioner) by installing it on the test program. If everything works and the case does not vibrate, then it is in order. The work is almost finished. By the way, we advise you to independently conduct such a check of the system operation every year (using the same test program).

Sixth stage: garbage collection

I must warn you: laying the line and other installation procedures are dirt, dust and noise. But good installers (with a license to install air conditioners) will come with special tools (including a metal detector to examine the walls for fittings and hidden communications).

In addition, installers must have a vacuum cleaner and other cleaning machines. With their help, after the work is completed, they must independently remove all garbage. If the installers are trying to dodge the "dirty" work, strictly demand - "cleaning the territory" is included in the payment for the installation of the air conditioner. In addition, you can conclude an agreement with a reputable company for preventive maintenance of a split system. Then you don't have to, risking your life, leaning out of the window to the waist, clean the outdoor unit with a vacuum cleaner or call climbers with your own money. When concluding such an agreement (it also includes warranty repairs), of course, you will have to pay a certain amount, but believe me, it's worth it. By the way, we hasten to inform you of a pleasant detail: Meteomarket, which sells Japanese Daikin air conditioners, will replace your air conditioner with a new one free of charge after the three-year service contract expires. However, if you are satisfied with the old unit, you can not change it for 20 years. The company guarantees its uninterrupted good work. By the way, in the notorious building on Lubyanka, Daikin air conditioners have been standing since the days of the “corn secretary general” Nikita Khrushchev and are still working properly.

The outdoor unit must be regularly cleaned of dust and dirt. A particularly difficult period of the outdoor unit is the time of flowering of poplars. The fluff instantly clogs the filters, and the air conditioner (if it is not cleaned immediately) breaks down. Of course, you can vacuum it if you are not afraid of heights. But it’s better not to risk it and call the “air conditioner rescue service” - that is, a service company.

At temperatures below -15 ° C, the air conditioner may refuse to work "for heat", and then low-temperature equipment (a heat pump, a compressor heater and even a drain pipe heater) will be needed. By the way, some models are already equipped with these devices (see table).

What did the installers say?

Experienced installers do not advise buying air conditioners "from whomever you have", on the market or from hands.

“How many times it happened, some kind of illiterate buffoons will carry out the installation, and then people call us, begging for help,” one experienced installer from a very reputable company told me. - It used to be that such unfortunate installers would bring with them a copper pipe for freon, and it had no plugs. If there are no plugs, then moist air will get inside. And humidity is unacceptable for the air conditioner: when combined with the insides of the entire system, it forms an acid that corrodes the air conditioner mechanism from the inside! And instead of serving properly for many years, such an air conditioner is, of course, sent to a landfill in three years.

The installers told me that sometimes they come across especially stubborn customers, they say, “I'm crying, do as I say!”. How to be? Here was a case recently. The client ordered to install the outdoor unit not from the side of the street, but inside the apartment, moreover, in the children's room. He motivated this by a strange statement that his children, they say, will live in the country for another two months. He ignored all the persuasion and arguments of the installers that the outdoor unit should not be placed indoors, and even more so in a residential area. It is clear that after two months the stubborn buyer called the installers to reinstall everything on a new one.

Or here's the case. The client wanted the indoor unit to blow directly onto the bed and the air temperature to be 18°C. They tried to prove to him that it would be cold, in addition, a directed stream of cold air could cause a cold. "Not! I won't catch a cold! Bet!” Nothing to do, set. The next day they came to install the air conditioner in another room, they see, and the temperature on that, yesterday's split, is set to 22 ° C.

– What is it? they ask.

- It's true, guys, I froze at night.

In general, with the correct operation of the air conditioner, a person should not feel that something is cooling or heating him. Just comfortable - that's all! Once a friend called the company and asked to come. He says: “I didn’t buy it from you, though.” Okay, let's go. They opened the block, and there was a dead rat.

That's it. Hence the conclusion - it is not enough to buy and install a split system. The main thing is that professionals do it for you.

The procedure for installing a split system

1. Wiring a separate electrical wiring for the air conditioner and installing a separate "machine" in the switchboard.

2. Installation of the outdoor (outdoor) unit:

3. Installation of the indoor unit:

4. System wiring connection:

5. Testing the system:

6. Cleaning of the premises (by the installers).

How should proper drainage be arranged?

To do this, installers must:

1. Proshtrobit highway.
2. Shut off the water in the apartment.
3. Drill a hole in the sewer pipe.
4. Firmly insert a drain plastic tube with a siphon into the hole. A layer of water in the siphon will delay the smell coming from the sewer.

Attention! The drainage tube, through which the accumulated moisture is removed, must necessarily go at an inclination of 5–10 mm so that there is a natural flow of water. If for some reason the tilt cannot be done, you must install a special pump for “forced suction of moisture”. But! This pump is not included and must be purchased separately. The purchase will cost 70 - 190 dollars, depending on the pump model you choose.

The main problems that arise during the operation of the air conditioner

Problem 1: The air conditioner blows directly on you, creating a drafty feeling.

Solution: It is necessary to enable the auto-oscillation function of the horizontal blinds (then the draft will turn into a light breeze) or fix the horizontal shutters in a better position. If this does not work, you need to turn the air flow to the left or right using the vertical air flaps. In most air conditioners, this operation is done manually, but in some models it can be done using the remote control.

Problem 2: On hot days, the air conditioner does not provide the necessary coolness, despite the fact that it works all the time.

Solution: In this case, you should check if the filters are clogged, if the windows and doors are closed, if additional heating devices (boilers or toasters) are working in the room. It can be recommended to hang thick white blinds on the windows, which reflect heat and light well, thus reducing the heat gain through the windows by almost half. If this does not help, the model must be replaced with a more powerful one.

Problem 3: Water is dripping from the indoor unit of the split system.

Solution: Apparently, the drain pipe is clogged. Most often, this situation occurs when an air conditioner with a drainage pipeline brought outside is turned on for cooling at sub-zero temperatures. In this case, the condensate may turn into an ice plug. To avoid this, it is necessary to heat the drainage pipeline to +5 °C using a special cable. If an ice plug nevertheless arose, then it is worth waiting for a thaw, and until that moment do not turn on the system for cooling.

Problem 4: Weakened airflow.

Solution: Clean the air filter. This can be done with a vacuum cleaner or washed with a soft sponge in warm water. It is not recommended to operate the air conditioner without a filter, as it protects not only your lungs, but also the heat exchanger of the indoor unit. When the latter becomes dusty, the efficiency of the air conditioner decreases.

Problem 5: Icing of the outdoor unit during the operation of the air conditioner for heating in conditions of small negative temperatures and high humidity.

Solution: If the air conditioner is not equipped with an automatic defrost system, try turning it on in cooling mode. In this case, the outdoor unit begins to give off heat to the street, heats up and gradually thaws.

Problem 6: Premature failure of the air conditioner.

Solution: To avoid this, do not operate it at temperatures below -10-15°C. At lower temperatures, the oil in the compressor thickens, and its wear increases many times over. There are various rumors about the dangers of air conditioners. But in the press center of the capital's SES, we were told that there is nothing to be afraid of: with the timely replacement of filters and subject to the operating rules, the split system does not hide any harm. At least, there were no complaints to the sanitary and epidemiological supervision.