Installing the end plate on the kitchen countertop. Tips on how to glue the furniture edge How to glue the end of the countertop

The edge is used to protect the end edges of parts made of MDF, chipboard, PVC from abrasion, moisture and impact. This finish has a decorative function, as well as giving strength to the edges and corners of furniture and protecting people from the harmful effects of a substance such as formaldehyde, which is used in the production of compressed wood boards.

If the border is damaged or peeled off, it is necessary to urgent repair. And in this case, the primary task is the selection of material and adhesive for PVC edges, melamine paper or other materials.

Edge Varieties

From the variety of edges you have to choose the most suitable.

Melamine

It is made in the form of a self-adhesive tape made of decorative paper impregnated with melamine resins. Typically used for interior decoration furniture. This a budget option edges for chipboard, not characterized high quality. It has a short service life, is susceptible to moisture and often disappears by itself over time.

Undoubted positive property melamine edge is the ease of gluing it, you can do it yourself at home using ordinary iron. The second advantage is the absence of a side, a curb protruding above the edged surface, which sometimes annoys when it gets under the hands when working with the keyboard, and also makes it difficult to sweep away small debris, for example, crumbs from the dining table in the office.

Represents a flexible tape with the bent edges which form a side. This edging is made of PVC (polyvinyl chloride). The types of edging differ in width and profile: in cross section, the edge resembles either the letter “t” (T-shaped) or the letter “p” (P-shaped).

The latter is easier to attach, but less reliable, the masters do not recommend using it on surfaces that are often subjected to friction: on the seats of stools or benches, on the front edge computer desk, which is constantly in contact with the forearms.

PVC edging increases the durability, wear resistance of furniture parts, reliably protects edges and corners from damage.

The border is similar to the previous type of edge tape, but more environmentally friendly. Made from chlorine-free plastic. Has been successfully used in furniture production due to heat resistance and impact resistance.

How to glue melamine edging

Update if you wish old furniture and at the same time save money, use a melamine edge with glue. Sticking it, for example, on the countertop is easy:

1. Cut off a piece of tape with a margin of about two centimeters.
2. Attach the adhesive side to the countertop and press with a hot iron or heat with a building hair dryer.
3. Hold to melt the glue words.
4. Move the iron along the edge gradually, preferably no more than 0.5 cm at a time.
5. Immediately after warming up and removing the iron, press the edge strip with a dry cloth and hold to fix it.

Advice! Also, an iron or hair dryer will help you remove the old edge tape. Just heat and remove with a knife or thin spatula.

Fixing PVC and ABS piping

Plastic edging tapes, theoretically, can be simply fixed on the edge of the furniture, but this is extremely unreliable. Additional fixation with glue is preferred.

To attach the T-profile, you will have to lay a recess along the entire edge to be processed. The easiest way to do this milling machine. If you have the skill, it will be replaced by a drill with a circular nozzle. However, in general, the profile is intended for professionals.

To fix the edges of PVC or ABS at home, PVC glue is used, as well as the universal compounds "Moment" and "88-Lux", it is desirable that they be marked "for PVC" or "for ABS".

Professionals use hot melt adhesives, which are part of a range of thermoplastics. When heated, they acquire high elasticity, and when cooled, they instantly turn into a solid state. The high fluidity and drying strength of the adhesives are due to the ethylene-vinyl acetate polymer contained in them. The main disadvantage of hot melt adhesives, of course, is the need for appropriate equipment for the job.

When working with any border, try to calculate the pasting sequence so as to avoid joints. Bend around the corners with a profile - it is desirable that they be rounded. If the corners are normal, a thick (PVC or ABS) profile will not go around them, and the melamine edge will most likely break. In this case, joints will have to be made at the corners, which must be processed at the end sandpaper to keep them smooth. If you run your hand along the edge of the part, then the roughness should not be felt.

Advice! You can get rid of excess edging tape with a very sharp knife, and the ends are cut first. Be careful not to accidentally damage the corners of the furniture. The direction of the knife should be inside the part.

If the factory edge is damaged or partially fallen off, remove it and replace with a new one. A little effort, and the table is like new!

Chipboard furniture at the edges of the cuts is easily subjected to mechanical damage and has an unaesthetic appearance. The edge on the edge of the furniture will help to cope with these problems.

It will protect the surface from different kind damage - water ingress, chips, scratches and will complete the interior design.

Very often, when buying furniture, you have to glue the edge yourself and beginners have a lot of questions and difficulties about this.

Edge types

To begin with, let's figure out what types of edges exist, because it depends on the material how it will be most effective to glue them:

Melamine edge

natural furniture edge

Usually they are produced with an adhesive layer on a dense paper basis. This is the cheapest, but also the most short-lived option. For this type of edges, the easiest way is suitable, which can be used independently at home - glue furniture edge using an iron or glue if there is no sticky base.

PVC edges

This type is the most durable and resistant to mechanical damage, non-flammable and not exposed to moisture, salt, alkaline substances. Available in 2 mm and 4 mm thick. PVC edge can be glued at home with glue.

ABS edges

Such edges are the most expensive, but also the most environmentally friendly. They possess smooth surface, the most pliable when applied to the folds, retain the original color forever. Attach this species possible only under conditions production shop due to the need for special equipment.

Acrylic edging

This type is also quite expensive, the surface of this edge is smooth, shiny, made of plastic. Often purchased for the design of glossy kitchen sets, countertops. It is impossible to properly attach such an edge on your own, since this is done exclusively in furniture production.

How to glue the edge to the countertop with an iron

As can be seen from the description of existing on the market building materials edges, for self-gluing at home, only melamine edge to the adhesive base and PVC edge are suitable.

Melamine edge is the cheapest and easiest to use, but it also has a number of disadvantages:

• due to poor-quality connection with the countertop, it can peel off if the work was done by the hands of an inexperienced craftsman;
• often exposed to water, after which it can peel off;
• less aesthetic than more expensive types of edges.

If it is nevertheless decided to use a melamine edge, you can use the simplest and most popular method, for which we need the following materials and devices:

• iron or hair dryer;
• edge;
• paper.

Step by step steps to glue the edge with an iron:

1. We heat the edge with a hairdryer or iron, in order for the glue to soften a little, you do not need to put the iron on maximum power so as not to damage the edge material and leave marks on the soleplate of the appliance. It is enough to use the "Silk" mode;
2. We apply the strip with the adhesive side to the surface of the countertop, on which we will glue. The width of the strip and the edges of the countertop must match exactly. Try to do everything as carefully as possible, it should work the first time, otherwise, in case of repeated attempts, it may break adhesive layer, and such an edge will be considered damaged. You can determine that the edge has stuck when the gap between the tabletop surface and the tape completely disappears;
3. We forcefully press the edge to the surface, iron it with an iron and hold it with a roller or a simple dry cloth along the entire length, fixing and pressing the tape. If the glue has come out a little on the edges, you can sand off unnecessary glue residues with fine sandpaper and a file.
4. The end of the tabletop is ready.

We glue the edge to the countertop with glue

If the melamine tape does not have an adhesive base, you can use glue. Also this way suitable for edges made of PVC. For this we need:

• universal glue;
• a piece of dense dry cloth for pressing and wiping the surface. In order to press the edge more tightly, you can wrap a small bar in the fabric and press the tape with it.

We apply a dense layer of glue on the surface of the edge and on the surface of the treated surface so that after pressing the adhesive residues would not come out.

We press two surfaces to each other gently, but with effort. If the hem is long, it's best to have someone help you hold and smooth the other end.

We maintain the amount of time required according to the instructions, while simultaneously smoothing it with a bar wrapped in fabric. We make sure that the materials do not exfoliate anywhere.

After you are sure that everything is securely hooked up, you can let go. If there are glue residues, carefully remove them with sandpaper or a small file. After all the steps, you can polish the edge with a piece of leather.

Now you are convinced that you can glue the furniture edge yourself at home, with minimal cost time and money. All materials are at home or in any hardware store or supermarket department. If you carefully and accurately follow all the instructions, the edge will protect your furniture from damage and delight in its appearance!

The usual kitchen worktop, used in most kitchen sets, is a chipboard sheet covered on top with a special wear-resistant plastic. The bottom and ends of the tabletop do not have such a coating. If the bottom of the tabletop is hidden from view and should not have any special coatings, then the ends of the tabletop need to be processed for several reasons: protection from water, strong heat (from hob), a decorative function. The ends are processed in two ways: they glue a special edge for the countertop, or they install a metal end plate. Let's consider the second method in detail.

Tools and materials needed to install the end plate:

1. #1 Phillips screwdriver.
2. Drill for metal with a diameter of 8 mm (if necessary).
3. Drill for metal with a diameter of 4.5-5.0 mm (if necessary).
4. Hacksaw for metal.
5. File with small notches.
6. Sealant silicone transparent (colorless).
7. Self-tapping screws 3.0x16 mm (3 pcs. for each end plate).

To correctly install the end plate on the countertop, firstly, you need to choose the right end plate itself. End strips differ in height, that is, the thickness of the tabletop for which they are intended (28 or 38 mm), the radius of the overhang (3 or 6 mm) and the type of finish of the strip (matte or glossy). Sometimes there are "left" and "right" end strips for mounting on the left and right end of the countertop, respectively (now almost all end strips are made universal, installed on any side). Below, but in the photo, you can see the whole simple process of mounting the end universal bar on a 28 mm thick countertop. The main thing is to treat the end of the countertop well with silicone sealant, similar to processing the cut of the countertop when.

Step 1. Cleaning the end of the countertop from dust, applying silicone sealant.

We apply silicone sealant to the end of the countertop. We cover the entire end face with a uniform layer.

Step 2 Applying silicone sealant to the end strip, fixing the strip with self-tapping screws.

We apply a strip of sealant on the L-shaped side. We apply the bar to the end of the tabletop, align the bar flush with the front overhang of the tabletop (the protrusion of the bar is not more than 1 mm is allowed) and press the bar down so that the rim is firmly pressed against the plastic of the tabletop (sealant should squeeze out from under the rim).

If the holes on the end plate have insufficient countersinking width for the screw head (usually it happens), then it is necessary to carefully (using a drill with a diameter of 8 mm) expand the countersinking so that the self-tapping screw is recessed flush. We twist all the screws in turn, making sure that the bar does not budge.

We fasten the bar with self-tapping screws 3.0x16 mm.

If the end plate is installed on a worktop of a smaller width (less than the standard 600 mm), then it is necessary to drill additional (new) holes in the right places with a 4.5-5.0 mm drill, followed by countersinking.

Step 3 Plank cutting, finishing.

Using a hacksaw, cut the bar flush with the back overhang of the countertop. We process the cut with a file. Remove excess sealant from all sides with a clean cloth.

(LDSP) the edges of parts without processing have an unsightly appearance. To put them in order, a furniture edge and a profile are used. It is more convenient to work with them on special equipment, but you can also achieve good results with your own hands at home.

Types of furniture edges

One of the most popular materials for making furniture is chipboard. Its disadvantage is the ugly edges that remain when cutting the part. These edges are masked by the furniture edge. Make it from different materials, respectively, it has different properties and price.

Paper or melamine edges

Most cheap option- edges made of paper with melamine impregnation. Paper is taken with increased density, impregnated with melamine to increase strength and pasted on papyrus paper. Papyrus can be single-layered (cheaper) and double-layered. To prevent the melamnov coating from being erased, everything is covered with a layer of varnish. To make it more convenient to edge parts, an adhesive composition is applied to the reverse side of the melamine furniture edge. When working, it is only necessary to warm up this composition slightly and press it well against the end.

Paper or melamine edging is the cheapest, but also the most short-lived option for finishing the ends of furniture

The thickness of paper edge tapes is small - 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm - the most common. There is no point in doing it thicker, and it will turn out expensive.

This type of edges is distinguished by the fact that it bends very well and does not break when bent. But mechanical strength its very low - the edge is quickly worn out. Therefore, if it is used, then only on those surfaces that are not subjected to stress. For example, on back side shelves, countertops, etc.

PVC

Received in Lately Polyvinyl chloride is widely used in the production of edges for furniture. From the mass painted in a certain color, a tape of a certain width and thickness is formed. Its front surface can be smooth monophonic, or it can be textured - with imitation of wood fibers. The number of colors is large, so it is easy to choose the right one.

PVC furniture edge is the most popular material used by both home craftsmen and professionals. This is due to the relatively low price and good performance properties:

PVC furniture edge is produced different thickness and width. Thickness - from 0.4 mm to 4 mm, width from 19 mm to 54 mm. The thickness is chosen depending on the expected mechanical load or appearance, and the width is slightly larger (at least 2-3 mm) than the thickness of the workpiece. Eat furniture PVC edge with applied adhesive composition, yes - without. Both can be glued at home (more on that below).

This type of edging material also has disadvantages: not very wide temperature regime: -5°C to +45°C. For this reason, furniture cannot be left outside in winter, and when pasting with heating, you must be careful not to melt the polymer.

Made of ABS (ABS) plastic

This polymer does not contain heavy metals, is different high strength and durability. The disadvantage can be considered a high price, therefore it is used extremely rarely, although it has excellent properties:

This type of edge can be matte, glossy, semi-gloss. There are also options that imitate different types of wood. In general, this material is more convenient to work with and more durable in use.

Veneer edge

Veneer is a thin slice of wood that has been dyed and shaped into a ribbon. This furniture edge is used in production when pasting slices of veneered products. Working with this material requires certain skills, and the material is expensive.

Veneer is not the most popular material for edging

Acrylic edge or 3D

Made from clear acrylic. On reverse side stripes are applied drawing. The polymer layer on top gives it volume, which is why it is called a 3D edge. It is used in the manufacture of furniture in an unusual design.

Furniture edge profiles

You can finish the edge of furniture not only with an edge tape. There are also furniture profiles that are mechanically fastened. They have two sections - T-shaped or U-shaped (also called C-shaped).

A groove is milled under the T-shaped furniture profiles in the processed edge. A profile is hammered into it with a furniture (rubber) mallet. The edges are cut at 45° to make the corner look attractive. It is brought to perfect condition with fine sandpaper. This type of profiles is produced from PVC and aluminum, with the same installation method they look very different, and the differences are significant.

In width, they are available for chipboard 16 mm and 18 mm. There are also wide ones, but they are much less common, since they work less with such material.

C- or U-shaped profiles are most often mounted on glue. They smear the edge, then put on plastic profile well pressed and fixed. These PVC profiles are soft and hard. Rigid ones bend worse and it is difficult to paste over curved edges with them. But they have great strength.

If you still need to “put” a rigid C-shaped furniture profile into a bend, it is heated with a building hair dryer, then it is given the desired shape and fixed masking tape until the glue dries.

We glue the furniture edge with our own hands

There are two technologies for gluing furniture edge tape. The first is for those who have glue applied on the back. In this case, an iron or building hair dryer. The second is for sticking tapes without glue. In this case, you need a good all-purpose adhesive that can glue plastics and wood products and furniture roller, a piece of felt or a soft rag so that you can press the edge well against the cut.

A little about how thick the edge to glue on what parts. Those edges that are not visible, according to GOST, you can not glue them at all, but basically they try to process them so that moisture is less absorbed into the chipboard, and also to reduce the evaporation of formaldehyde. Melamine tape or PVC 0.4 mm is glued to these edges. Also handle the edges drawers(not facades).

On the front ends of the facade and drawers, it is better to use PVC 2 mm, and on the visible sections of the shelves - PVC 1 mm. The color is chosen either to match the main surface or “in contrast”.

How to glue the edging with glue yourself

The adhesive composition is applied to the melamine edge, it happens on PVC. If you choose PVC, it’s easier to start with thin ones - they are easier to process, any melamine ones are easy to glue.

We take an iron and a fluoroplastic nozzle on it. If there is no nozzle, a dense cotton fabric will do - so as not to overheat the tape, but to melt the glue. For this purpose, a building hair dryer is also suitable. We put the iron on about “deuce”, while it is heated, cut off a piece of tape. Length - a couple of centimeters more than the workpiece.

We apply the edge to the part, level it, smooth it. Small pieces should hang down from both sides. We take an iron and, through a nozzle or a rag, iron the edge, warming up until the glue melts. It is necessary to warm up evenly over the entire surface. After the entire edge is glued, let it cool. Then we start processing the edges.

The edge can be cut with a knife, both sharp and blunt side. Someone uses a regular metal ruler, someone is more comfortable with a stainless steel spatula.

So, we take the tool of your choice, cut off the hanging edges of the edge. They are cut close to the material. Then cut off the excess along the part. Melamine and thin plastic are perfectly cut with a knife. If the PVC edge is thicker - 0.5-0.6 mm or more, difficulties may already arise. Such edges are possible, if any. This guarantees a good result in a short time. Longer processing will last if you use sandpaper, but the result may not be worse.

One important point: when gluing thin edges, the cut of the part must be even, without protrusions and depressions. The material is plastic, because of which all defects are visible. Therefore, first go through the cuts with sandpaper, then carefully dedust, degrease. Only after that you can glue.

Edging with PVC tape (without adhesive on the reverse side)

With this method self sticking PVC edging you need universal glue and a piece of felt or rag. We read the instructions for the glue, perform all the actions on the recommendation. For example, for Moment glue, it is necessary to apply on the surface and distribute the composition, wait 15 minutes, press the surfaces to be glued strongly.

Apply glue and wait - no problem. To firmly press the edge to the cut, you can use wooden block wrapped in felt. Instead of a bar, you can take a construction grater, and also attach felt to its sole. In extreme cases, you can roll up a dense fabric in several layers and thereby press the tape to the surface.

The selected tool is pressed against the laid edge, pressed with all the weight, pressing it against chipboard surfaces. The movements at the same time are stroking. So iron the entire edge, achieving a very snug fit. In this form, the part is left for a while - so that the glue "grabs". Then you can start processing the edge.

The ends of the countertops made of laminated chipboard, in addition to aluminum strips, can also be closed with a special plastic edge (laminated paper with hot-melt adhesive applied to it), which is produced together with the countertops "in color", that is, it has exactly the same decor.

This method is more preferable in visible places. It is better to put planks in places threatened by swelling from water (under them, the end can be asked for), as well as in places where the countertop fits on a free-standing slab.

Today we will figure out how to glue such a plastic edge. The edge is sold practically at retail (we have a minimum piece of three meters). We cut off a piece of the required length (for a standard 600 mm countertop, this is approximately 620 mm. This edge is cut with any scissors.

Then you just need to smooth it with an iron. After the iron, until it cools down, I additionally smooth it with a gloved hand or a piece of felt. Until completely cool.

The remaining overhangs are then removed with an edge router. How to modify the sole of a conventional router so that it becomes an edge cutter, I. The cutter is used moulder with bearing

After the cutter has passed, no grinding, etc., is needed. Everything is done quickly and efficiently.

Previously, I used the method without a milling cutter (I carefully tapped the overhangs with a bar with sandpaper, chipping off the edge. The bar should be directed at an angle of about 45 degrees towards the countertop. That is, the edge broke around the corner of the part. Then this jagged "cut" is cleaned with the same sandpaper on the bar.

The results were often not worse, but the complexity of the process is many times higher. Although, in the presence of non-glue, the edge could break and go to the surface of the part (this happened especially often on a semicircular front), which led to the need to start all over again.