We select, design and modernize a hand drill. Personal experience

Every dacha owner at least once in his life had to dig a hole on his territory for the purpose of building some kind of object. This could be an arch, a support, a pillar, any element of the exterior or a full-fledged building, for example. Often, the construction of such things requires wells or holes, which are not always easy to make due to their inconvenient location. Also, work can be complicated due to difficult soils. In such situations, the usual shovel is not the most convenient tool to dig a deep hole, and therefore private owners often have to hire a specialist with a drill.

The garden hand auger has been and remains one of the most useful devices for dacha owners. The tool is distinguished by its compact dimensions and low weight, which makes it very convenient to use and transport. Crafted from hard metals with your own hands, the post auger is capable of going through plant roots and small rocks in the ground. The drilling process is carried out due to rotational movements at the desired point.

Design

The main purpose of the drill is to dig wells to a depth approximately equal to the laying depth columnar foundation. Cutting through the soil is carried out due to the cutting part, which in turn can be performed:

Half discs;
In the form of screws;
Solid or removable;
Multi-tiered;
Two-blade;
Helical.

Some hand drills have small blades at the bottom with a gradually increasing radius towards the top. Nevertheless, factory products often turn out to be unusable in practice, due to a discrepancy between the diameter and the diameter of the new hole or due to the impossibility of implementation on desired depth. And although the cost of a factory model is small, it makes sense to learn how to make a drill with your own hands. Technology self-assembly It is cheap and simple, the main thing is to accurately determine the configuration of the future instrument! To do this, it is necessary to distinguish between the designs and functionality of the models:

Shaper plow . Covers the lower extended area of the socket. In most cases, the tool is used to strengthen columnar foundations during the construction of large structures.

The handle with the screw part is fixed due to bolted connection. The total length of the finished drill is usually a little more than one meter. This allows you to easily make holes up to 700 millimeters deep. If it is necessary to make a hole of greater depth, the structure is supplemented with a special connecting tube half a meter long. The complementary element resembles a part with a nut and bolt at the end sections of the pipe.

Ground receiver . The soil is accumulated in a special storage facility. The drill is in most cases used when drilling holes from 35 centimeters in diameter.
Baking powder . The tool is made in the form of a screw or two inclined blades. In the first case, a knife in the form of a spiral is placed on a bar.

DIY drill

If you want to make a manual pole drill yourself, as a rule, there are no difficulties during the assembly process. However, to work you will need following materials, parts and tools.

Materials

To ensure the product has the proper level of strength, as well as to be able to perform work in hard ground conditions, it is worth using iron pipes with wall thickness not less than 3.5 millimeters. You can make cutting discs either with your own hands or take ready-made ones from circular saw. In the first case, it is recommended to take metal sheets thickness from 3 millimeters.

Details

Parts you will need:

3 pipes: one 400 mm long, two 500 mm long. The outer diameter of the pipes should be 40 mm, the wall thickness should be at least 3.5 mm;
M20 nut and bolt;
Drill with a diameter of 20 millimeters with a tip;
A pair of disks of 150 and 100 mm in diameter.

Tools

For cutting elements, a sharpening wheel;
Grinder and hammer;
Electric drill paired with metal drills;
Welding machine;
Locksmith kit.

If you do not have a drill tip, you can replace it with a regular drill bit with a tapered shank. In this case, the diameter of the element must fit the screw part. To avoid injury when making your own, it is recommended to use soft bicycle handles.

Work order

First of all, the center and radius of the circle, which will act as the future blade, is marked on a piece of metal. The intended workpiece is cut out using a grinder. After this, cutting and cutting lines corresponding to the size of the collar circumference are drawn along the diameter line. The finished disk is divided into two parts. The holes for the collars are made with a grinder;
Using a grinder, four 3-4 cm longitudinal cuts are made at the end of the pipe blank intended for making the wrench. Using a hammer, the cuts are collected in the center, thus forming the tip of the pipe. To avoid filling the inside with soil the tip is processed by welding;
The halves of the disk with the knob are welded so that the angle to the plane of rotation is about 20 degrees, and the distance between them remains at least 5 centimeters;
The extension pipe is welded like the letter “T”, strictly perpendicular, it is strengthened by a metal “kerchief”. The workpiece is placed inside the collar pipe, after which a through hole is made, which will allow the elements to be fixed with wings and a pin;

It is worth making several holes in the extension of the hand drill at once - thanks to them, in the future it will be possible to change the length of the driver without any problems.

Finally, all that remains is to sharpen the blades. In this case, the cutting edge of the cutters is processed in such a way that when rotating, the tip “looks” down!

How to apply a protective layer?

The hand drill for poles is ready, but it will not last long if it is not treated with special protective composition, which will protect the tool from harmful corrosion processes! For this purpose, all surfaces are thoroughly cleaned with sandpaper, and then treated with phosphating solution and primer. At the end the drill can be painted, but this is optional.

In progress earthworks, namely, upon completion, the drill should be disassembled and the bolted connections should be cleaned of dust and dirt, processing them waterproof lubricant. Such prevention will ensure long-term operation of the tool, eliminating sudden jamming of bolted joints.

How to increase tool productivity?

During construction work, namely when making wells, builders are often faced with a large amount of vegetation inside the soil. You can make working with a drill easier by sharply sharpened knife edges. In addition, you can also round the cutting area and cut teeth on the sloping part of each blade, which will significantly improve the ease of use of the tool.

Hand Drill Upgrade

The first improvement can be called performing a drill paired with replaceable cutters. This solution will allow you to dig holes of any diameter. In addition to spare parts, it is also important to think carefully about the method of fixing the cutters to the driver! The most simple option a connection is considered to be made by a pair of welded metal plates.

Important point! Welding should be done at an angle of 20 degrees relative to the plane of rotation.

A pair of holes are drilled into the mounting plates and blades for bolts. The cutters are secured using nuts, washers and M6 bolts. To prevent the bolts from causing additional interference during the drilling process, they are placed with the thread facing up.

Second improvement useful for builders working in areas with deep compacted soils. Thanks to a small flat cutter welded between the cutter and the lance, the hand drill will additionally perform centering and loosening of the soil while drilling. To complete this element with your own hands, you will need a pair of plates measuring 3 by 8 centimeters. In addition to the above, her presence can speed up the work process.

Third improvement method – increasing the functionality of the lower end of the gate. This happens due to a lance: a plate measuring 2 by 10 cm is cut out of a narrow sheet of metal and sharpened with a cone point using a grinder. A machined plate is inserted into the end of the knob, which is then welded and flattened.

However, there is another way to create a peak. From sheet metal a longer plate is cut out - about 17 centimeters in length. The workpiece is heated and, like a corkscrew, is rolled into a screw. Further work is carried out similarly to the first option.

A drill will work as an auger required diameter, which can handle metal and wood. Such a drill will easily pass through layers of soil, easily reaching the required depth.

Fourth – you can also make friezes with your own hands from grinder discs, just not ordinary ones, but those designed for working with stone! The central hole is expanded to fit the dimensions of the knob, the circles are cut along the radius line. The ends of the disk are separated in different sides due to which something like a screw is obtained. At the end, all that remains is to weld the part to the drill.

A circular saw blade is also suitable for creating a cutter. Its sharp teeth can easily pass through any vegetation and roots in the thickness of the soil. Which option suits you best?.. It’s not difficult to create a hand drill for poles with your own hands, and it will take a little money. All work will take approximately several hours.

The pillar is the main architectural element of many types of fences and buildings. To install it you need special tool, hand drill for poles. With its help, holes are selected in the ground into which the pillars are installed.

If it is necessary to make a large number of holes, motorized drills are used, but in private construction, in particular during the independent construction of fences, manual versions of such a tool are used. There are a lot of industrially produced models, but nothing prevents you from making your own drill that will satisfy local needs. And it will cost less than store-bought.

At least minimal skills in working with a welding machine and its availability are required.

Alternative option– production of custom-made tools according to the selected project. In this case, you will need to find performers and a suitable drawing.

Construction of an earth drill

Fundamentally, each drill consists of three main elements:

Pike, which plunges into the ground first and centers the entire tool during the first stages of drilling. Some versions of auger drills and designs with an earth receiver are not equipped with a lance.
Cutting part, made in the form of a screw, half disks or having another configuration.
Solid or segmented rod, to the bottom of which the working elements are attached, and to the top - a handle or pin for connection to the motorized unit.

The different types and combinations of these elements make the difference between drill types. The garden auger is equipped with a peak and two blades, mounted on the main rod at a certain angle (usually 35-40 degrees to the perpendicular to the axis). This is not the most productive tool used for making planting holes or holes for small supports.

Auger drill– a specific option for quickly installing wells for fencing supports. It is equipped with a spiral blade with several turns for removing soil, which is cut by a blade at the bottom of the auger.

The cutting edge of the blade should always remain the lowest point of the auger. Otherwise, the device will not be able to drill into the ground. Therefore, models with two to four semicircular blades are suitable only for making shallow holes for planting plants. The soil is directly cut by only one corner of one blade.

Drill with earth receiver is a piece of pipe large diameter, in the lower inner part of which blades, most often equipped with teeth, are fixed. As the drill rotates, they fill the volume of the pipe above them, after which the tool is removed from the ground.

Drill for TISE piles is a tool of the previous type, equipped with a hinged blade for creating channel extensions for pouring pile foundations. Sometimes, instead of a cutting part, the earth receiver is equipped with a blind bottom for collecting soil selected by a folding blade.

Making a drill

The main tools for self-made The drill is used by an angle grinder and a welding machine. The process begins with the selection and preparation of the main axis of the tool. A round (26.8-48 mm in diameter) or profile (20×20-35×35) pipe is suitable for this role.

You cannot make a garden auger from a profile square pipe with your own hands. For it, exclusively pipes with a round cross-section are used.

The required length is calculated by adding 50-60 cm to the depth of the future well. If the final value exceeds one and a half meters, you will need to make the bar collapsible. The connection mechanism can be any (threaded, cotter pin, or other), the main thing is that it can withstand the loads during rotation with resistance.

The pike is usually made separately. From a piece of pipe, inner diameter which is equal to the outer one, you can simply make a sharp tip or flatten the pipe, and then roll it into a spiral of one or two turns or sharpen it in the manner of the tip of a wood drill. Other options include soldering a narrow spiral screw. Good results are shown by using a 40-diameter wood drill. In this case, the diameter of the end drill must exceed the outer diameter of the rod.

After the lance is welded to the axial rod (or its lower segment), you can begin constructing the main cutting part. To do this, an old saw blade from a circular saw, the diameter of which corresponds to the parameters of the required hole, is cut into two equal halves. The resulting blades are welded to the main rod above the peak. The preferred angle to the perpendicular to the axis is 30-40 degrees, to the vertical - strictly 90. The cutting edges are sharpened.

Another, more productive option is to make a screw. For it, circles are cut from sheet iron, the diameter of which corresponds to the parameters of the required recess. The number of disks is equal to the number of turns of the future spiral (at least three). The blanks are stacked, after which a hole is drilled in their center, commensurate with the outer diameter of the pipe.

Afterwards, a small segment is cut out of the disks. The resulting parts must be welded to form a spring. Then it is stretched on a winch, the seams between the turns are welded with reverse side and attached to the axle.

The final touch is the handle. It is made from a piece of the same pipe that was used for the axial rod or a diameter more suitable for the hand. The mounting method depends on personal preference. The handle can be welded to the axle, reinforced with additional crossbars, or made removable.

Materials used

Depending on the type of drill being manufactured, they are used various materials, but the basis is always round or profile pipes and sheet metal (waste saw blades).

Pieces of pipe, parts of broken wood drills, and metal plates are used as pikes. Or models are made without peaks. Studs and nuts are used to connect the rod segments.

In general, the range of necessary and acceptable materials depends on the chosen design. It must be thought through before starting work.

Cutting elements and their fastening

The cutting part of earth drills can be removable or non-removable. However, detachable mounting is only permissible on versions with half blades or saw blades or sheet metal. To do this, shelves are attached to the main rod, located at the same angle as the blades. 2-3 holes are drilled in the shelves, to which the cutting parts are attached using bolts and nuts.

Replacement bits can also be made for drills with an earth receiver. To do this, in the reinforcing arc that attaches the bucket to the rod, it is necessary to make a flattening, drill a hole and cut a thread in it.

The screw cutting parts are rigidly attached to the axis. To drill holes of different diameters, it makes sense to make several attachments for one handle.

Some modifications

Straight crushing blades between the lance and the cutting edge.
Multi-tier arrangement of blades with gradually increasing diameter.
Power ribs between the corners of the blades and/or the axial rod.
Receiver box to remove more soil in one go.
Additional blade with 2-3 teeth for easier drilling in dense soils.
Removable blades for quick replacement during work.
And many others, the number of which is limited only by personal ingenuity.

Video

Drill for TISE piles

The fundamental difference between a drill for a device pile foundations consists in the presence of a folding blade and a container - a land receiver. It is often manufactured as a separate tool along with an auger drill for the actual wells.

The blade folding mechanism is a rod that moves a small piece of larger diameter pipe that is placed on the main rod. This movement activates a system of levers that lowers the blade.

Auger drill

To make multiple holes, it is better to use an auger drill. For one-time projects, a fishing ice pick is quite suitable. But for the mass installation of holes, it is better to purchase or make an appropriate drill from pipes and other materials.

In a “working” auger drill, only one edge of the blades protrudes. The second can be equipped with a comb with several teeth located slightly below the cutting plane.

If you have the time and money, using a motorized block and a special bed will help significantly speed up drilling holes for fence posts.

Blueprints

The abundance of designs allows you to create a highly specialized tool for personal needs. Let's look at some drawings of such options.

Shovel drill

When planting plants, the drilling depth is not critical. Therefore, you can donate an old shovel to make hole preparation easier. You should retreat 30 mm from the lower center point. Draw lines from it to the edges at an angle of 10-20 degrees. Then step back 30 mm from each edge and draw vertical lines. The bayonet segments located between the verticals and lines diverging from the center are cut out.

Then cut the marked 30mm from the bottom center point. Now all that remains is to bend the lower and side parts of the bayonet in opposite directions along the marked lines. The earth drill with your own hands is ready.

Digging holes for posts with your own hands using a shovel is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process. This may take more than one day if the decision is made to build a fence. The way out of this difficult situation is to do everything with the help of garden borer. The device is simple and does not require the use of energy, that is, it is a purely hand-held tool. It's easy to work with, no big effort required. As practice shows, in 15 minutes you can dig a hole in the ground with a diameter of 20 cm and a depth of one meter. That is, in just a couple of hours you can completely prepare places for installing poles.

Today manufacturers garden tools offer a fairly wide range of hand drills. They cost differently, but if the work they do is one-time, then maybe it’s worth making it yourself. How difficult is this creative process? Basically, for anyone home handyman For those who are familiar with simple plumbing tools and can handle electric welding, this task is quite doable. Let's look at how you can make a garden hand drill from scrap materials.

Required materials and tools

What materials will be required for this:

Metal pipe with a diameter of 20-25 mm.
Strip 3-5 mm thick.
A metal sheet 3-4 mm or a disk from a circular saw, you can use a cutter.
Bolts with M6 nuts, if a drill with removable knives will be manufactured.

Tools:

Welding machine complete with electrodes;
Hammer;
Hacksaw or grinder;
Roulette.

Attention! Pay attention to the internal diameter of the cutter; it should be slightly larger than the external diameter of the pipe by approximately 5-7 mm.

Manufacturing process

First of all, the length of the hand drill for the pillars is determined. Approximately, you can take it within 1.5 m. Therefore, a piece of this size is cut from the pipe. Pruning is done with a grinder.

Very important element- this is the tip of the drill. It serves as a guiding element. But if you come to the issue of ease of drilling soil (especially hard), then it’s worth making a small drill from the tip. Therefore, it is better to make the element itself from a metal strip 5 mm thick. How to do it right.

A 10 cm long piece is cut from a strip 5 mm thick and 20 mm wide.
One end of it is sharpened into a cone. This can be done with a grinder by putting an emery disc on it.
The other end is ground on both sides so that it can easily fit into the pipe. Turning length - 5 cm.
The tip is inserted into the pipe and electrically welded on all sides.
You can change the design of the tip (improve it) by making a small drill out of it. To do this, you will have to heat the device and shape it into a screw, something like a corkscrew.

It is the corkscrew design that will help increase the element’s ability to bite into hard soil. Here it is important to accurately establish the direction of twist. It should coincide with the angle of inclination of the main drill knives. Typically, the tool is twisted clockwise, which means that the sharp edge should be located on the right side.

There is another option for making a drill tip with your own hands. To do this, you will have to cut the end of the pipe longitudinally to a depth of 3-5 cm. This is done with a grinder. There should be four or five cuts, with the same distance (or approximately the same) left between them. Now, using a hammer, you need to adjust the edges of the cuts to the center of the pipe diameter. After that, the joints of the cut strips are scalded with electrodes, and the end of the device is sharpened with a grinder.

Now you can proceed to installing the main knives. You can make them yourself from various cutting working tools. The cutters and disks from the circular saw were listed above. Basically, this list is longer. If cutting discs were not found, then knives can be made from sheet steel 3-4 mm thick. You simply cut a circle out of a sheet of the required diameter; by the way, this can be done with a grinder or electric welding. Then a hole is made in it with a diameter of slightly larger diameter pipes. And after that the steel circle is cut into two even halves.

You can first cut the circle in half, and then cut semicircles on the two halves for the pipe. The important thing here is to finish the process by sanding down all the raw edges. The outer edges of the half-discs are sharpened to a certain sharpness. After which both knives are welded to the pipe. There are a couple of recommendations here:

The distance from the place where the tip is welded to the place where the knives are installed is 10-15 cm.
The knives themselves are installed one above the other, the distance between them is 5 cm, the installation angle is approximately 20°.
The discs must be welded so that their working edge is directed downwards, that is, when drilling, the drill should easily crash into the ground.

All that remains is to weld a small piece of pipe perpendicular to the drill pipe. This will be the handle. Its length is 50 cm, but here everyone chooses it for themselves. To prevent the effort of human hands from breaking the weld between two pipes, it is necessary to weld gussets cut from a metal sheet on both sides.

The design of the drill can be modified, or rather, improved. Sometimes it becomes necessary to dig holes for posts longer than 1.5 m. Therefore, it is recommended to add a couple of additional pipes to the tool, which will increase the length of the tool itself. How to make these elements correctly.

Firstly: it is necessary to modify the drill handle, making it removable. Therefore, it is not welded tightly, but made in the shape of the letter “T”. In this case, the section of pipe that will be inserted into the drill barrel must have a diameter less than the diameter of the barrel. And at the same time, the handle should fit into the barrel unhindered, but not so much as to reduce the strength characteristics of the tool itself.
Secondly: in the barrel of the handle you need to make two through holes, located perpendicular to each other. The distance between them is 5-6 cm.
Thirdly: exactly the same holes with a diameter of 7 mm must be made on the drill barrel at the entry point of the handle. It turns out that both elements will be connected with two M6 bolts.
Fourth: several pipes 1.5 m long are prepared, corresponding to the diameter of the handle barrel, in which the same holes are drilled at both ends. Locations are the same as on the handle barrel.

To lengthen a hand drill two or three times, you need to unscrew the fastening bolts, remove the handle, insert the pipe into the pipe, secure them with bolts, install a handle on the free end of the extended drill, attaching it with two bolts.

As for the diameter of the holes for the posts, this can also be changed if the knives are made removable. To do this, at the place where the knives are installed, it is necessary to weld two shelves cut from a strip 5 mm thick. You can make the shelf in the form of a circle with an internal hole for the tool pipe. A circle with a diameter of 8-10 cm is cut out of a sheet of iron, a hole is made in it for the pipe, and this element is installed and welded to the trunk. You must first make four through holes in it, two on each side. Removable knives will be attached to them.

Attention! Removable knives are fastened with M6 bolts. Installation of bolts should be done with the thread upward towards the handle. They simply in this position will not interfere with the process of drilling the soil.

You can increase the efficiency of the drill if you install between the knives and the tip additional element. This is, in fact, a flat cutter that will loosen the soil before inserting the knives and center the drill itself. A small addition will make it possible to increase the drilling speed, especially in hard soils, and in places where there is in the ground a large number of plant roots.

It’s not difficult to make such a flat cutter with your own hands. To do this, you will need a plate 4-5 mm thick and 30 mm wide. Two pieces of 80 mm length are cut out of it. They are welded opposite each other to the drill barrel. The right edge of the additional knives becomes sharper. To prevent heavy loads from breaking the flat cutter, you can add two metal gussets to their fastening.

In principle, this is how you can make a hand drill with your own hands for digging holes for pillars. Let's face it, it won't take very long to make this tool, about two hours, no more.

Hand drill – irreplaceable thing on personal plot. Drill holes to install fence posts or bored piles under the foundation, make holes in the garden soil for planting plants. This hand tools there will always be a use for it. Users of our portal know how to make this tool yourself, and whether it is possible to somehow improve factory-made devices.

Before you buy or make your own hand drill, you need to ask yourself the following questions:

For what purposes and work do you need it;
What type of soil will be drilled at the site.

Sand, rocky soil, abandoned garden soil, hard clay, loam, soil with a lot of roots. Drilling a hole for installing fence posts and posts of small diameter, drilling out “heavy” soil for powerful bored piles for the foundation of a house. All these factors have a significant impact on the design of a hand drill.

Sukhanov Mikhail User FORUMHOUSE

In my opinion, the best hand drill is the one that is “tailored” for work in a specific area, taking into account the characteristics of the soil and its layers. Those. earthen the drill must be made for specific tasks: installation of pillars, piles, etc.

A user of our portal offers the following mechanical design of the drill. How it was made can be clearly seen in this photo.

Two knives are used to preliminary loosen the soil, which simplifies the cutting of the main blades, set at an angle, into the ground. Moreover, the main blades can be made replaceable by attaching them to bolts and nuts. Thanks to this, it is possible to drill holes of different diameters using one rod.

Although outwardly purchased and homemade drills are in many ways similar, it is homemade hand drills that show top scores. They are stronger and more convenient to work with, because... they are made to suit you.

Sukhanov Mikhail

My neighbor and I once conducted the following experiment: we decided to compare the performance of my homemade drill (blade diameter 25 cm) and its purchased one (blade diameter 14 cm).

The soil on the forum member’s site is like this:

0.7-0.8 m – “fertility”;
0.2-0.4 m – coarse limestone stone;
then a layer of marl (yellow, with fine limestone chips).

During the competition, the drillers almost simultaneously went 0.8 m deep. Then the purchased tool stumbled on the marl, while, working as a homemade garden drill, Michael continued to drill as if nothing had happened. The neighbor had to loosen the marl with a crowbar and only then drill further.

The result of the experiment: in order to drill a hole under a pillar 1 meter deep, Mikhail it took a little over 5 minutes, and he wasn’t tired at all. The neighbor fell hopelessly behind in the last 0.2 m.

T.N. a universal drill, no matter how suitable for working on different soils, may turn out to be ineffective.

That is why they are so popular among users of our portal homemade designs hand drills. To make one, it is enough waste materials and basic skills in welding.

The tool is made like this: take a round or square pipe, its length is selected depending on the expected depth of the hole. In case of mechanical drilling deep wells the pipe can be extended by adding an additional rod. The diameter of the blades is selected depending on the expected diameter of the pit and the planned work.

Large-diameter saw blades from circular saws have worked well as blades. Such a disk is sawn into two parts with a grinder. The halves are welded to the pipe, and the blades must be spread to a certain angle (approximately 25-30°). This way they penetrate better into the ground. A lance or a large-diameter “killed” drill is welded to the end of the pipe. The tip is needed to center the drill at the beginning of drilling. Due to the saw teeth on the blades, such a tool cuts roots well when rotating.

The main thing when working with a hand drill is to stop in time and lift it out of the pit in order to dump the rock.

Boston User FORUMHOUSE, Moscow.

I made two earth drills for the beginning of the summer season. The first is with a diameter of 210 mm, the second is 160 mm. Circular discs were used on the blades. The rest was made from what was literally lying under our feet. I also made a collapsible extension rod. I spent 200 rubles on everything, as they say, cheap and cheerful.

If you don't have it at hand welding machine, then such a tool can only be assembled using bolts and nuts. You can also use a used ice auger as a drill for light soil and for drilling small-diameter holes (since buying a new one is an economically unjustified idea). For ease of operation of the ice device, you need to cut off the handle-turn and attach a standard T-shaped collar.

In addition to the tools described above, an interesting approach to making a homemade drill for drilling wells in the ground from a forum member with the nickname VyacheslavK.

A conventional earth drill was used to drill to a depth of 2.5 m. The forum member cut the blades with a grinder from a piece of sheet metal 3 mm thick, onto which a paper template was previously glued.

Then a hole with a diameter of 20 mm was drilled in the resulting workpiece.

A cut was made along the radius of the circle.

The pin has been sharpened.

The result is a drilling device like this.

During the work, the following shortcomings were identified and eliminated:

The blades are brought together during drilling, which significantly reduces drilling efficiency. To prevent the blades from collapsing, bracing partitions were welded between them and to the pipe.

When drilling holes for installing a fence, the tool, if it bumped into stones or roots, was pulled to the side. To eliminate this drawback, an arcuate side of 30x10 cm was welded one blade at a time, starting from the bend of the circle.

Low efficiency when passing through oily clay. For working with clay, the so-called was made. frame drill designed by a user of our site with a nickname KND.

This device is best suited for working with lamellar clays. It has a minimum coefficient of friction against the rock. It is easy to remove from the hole (there is no “piston effect” like an auger drill). After lifting the drill, the clay is simply shaken out of the frame.

Although such a tool is most often used when drilling homemade wells“on the water”, its design turned out to be so successful that it is worth focusing on it.

VyacheslavK did this:

From a strip of metal 5 cm wide, he cut two identical strips and made angular bevels, moving 2 cm from the end of the strip. For the strips, you can use old car springs.

Cut and sharpened knives.

I welded the knives to the drill, pointing the sharpened sides in opposite directions.

I spread the knives apart using a corner so that the distance between the ends was 25 cm.

Using a gas key VyacheslavK turned the knives at an angle.

I assembled and welded the entire structure.

It is worth noting that the drill quickly broke off. That's why VyacheslavK sharpened the fragment, as shown in the next photo.

When making a frame drill, it should be taken into account that it is not suitable for working in loose, loose soil, because it doesn't stay in the frame.

Also interesting are the designs intended for making a widening - “heel” - during the construction of the TISE foundation.

Subarist User FORUMHOUSE

I modified the purchased drill and installed a second folding shovel on it. To make it easier to work, I made a T-handle 1 m long. Thus, I increased the force on the lever. The length of the rod is 3 meters. Now you can drill holes 2 meters deep while standing in full height, not all fours. I cut off the teeth from the land receiver because they are of little use.

The “improvement” did not end there. To increase efficiency earth drill when drilling expansion, Subarist I bent the blades - the straight blades did not cut the ground well. The forum member’s future plans include installing blades made of alloy steel, because... ordinary ones quickly become dull on stones.