Korean chrysanthemum: growing from seeds. Chrysanthemums: growing in the garden, care, planting, varieties

Two varieties are used for cultivation on the site: ground chrysanthemum and Korean.

Chrysanthemum belongs to the Asteraceae family. The flowering period lasts from September to October. The leaves are sessile, green with a gray tint, the stems are erect.

The height of the bush can vary from 30 to 110 cm. The larger the bush, the more flowers it produces, with favorable conditions can grow up to 100 inflorescences with a double or semi-double surface. The rhizomes of the plant are branched, with root shoots, penetrating into the soil to a depth of 25 cm.

The inflorescence of a chrysanthemum is a basket, it contains a large number of individual flowers.

The diameter of the inflorescence ranges on average from 5 to 10 cm. The shape of the flowers can be varied: flat, pompom-shaped, anemone-shaped. The coloring has a wide palette, the petals can be lilac, orange, crimson, pink, red, white, orange. A pleasant light aroma emanates from the flowers.

Chrysanthemums are planted in group plantings, combining shrubs with flowers of different shades. Chrysanthemums complement those trees that change the color of their foliage with the seasons. You can also do group plantings with other perennial herbaceous plants or shrubs.

The most common species grown on sites:

The crowned chrysanthemum has a simple stem and reaches a height of 70 cm, although it may be less. Basal leaves do not stay on the plant for a long time. Inflorescences are solitary or collected in groups. The leaves of this species can be used as food.
Alpine chrysanthemum low growing plant, average height 15 cm. The leaves are collected in a rosette, the baskets are single, 3 cm in diameter. The flowering period lasts from July to August. This variety looks great on alpine roller coaster, also grown in pots and borders.
Chrysanthemum keeled is an annual species, grows from 20 to 70 cm. The stem is erect, fleshy, the leaves are also dense. The inflorescences can be double or semi-double and have a pronounced aroma. The flowering period lasts from June to September, flowering is abundant.
Chrysanthemum bush tall view, reaches 1 meter. The inflorescences are large, reaching a diameter of 5 cm, double or semi-double, and can be arranged singly or in groups of 2-10 pieces. The flowers are tubular or reed.
Chrysanthemum mulberry (Chinese) - bred artificially, this is a low-growing plant whose height ranges from 30 to 130 cm. The shoots are erect and become lignified over time. The inflorescences can be simple, semi-double or double, reach an average of 6 cm in diameter, and emit a pleasant light aroma.
Korean chrysanthemums originated as a hybrid. Flowers can reach a diameter of 15 cm, the maximum height of the bush is 1 meter.

Hybrid varieties tolerate bad weather and temperature changes more easily. They are less likely to encounter diseases and pests and have a long flowering period.

Growing chrysanthemums from seeds does not require much time or special conditions. The plant is not whimsical and adapts well to environmental conditions. Not all types of chrysanthemums are grown from seeds; only some annual species are suitable, as well as Korean small-flowered representatives. Other types of chrysanthemums can only be obtained by dividing the bush or cuttings.

Sowing seeds of annual chrysanthemums can be done immediately open ground.

This is done in mid-May. Flowering occurs only in the fall, but if you want to see flowers as quickly as possible, then seedlings are planted; they quickly adapt to the open ground and environmental conditions. Seeds of perennial chrysanthemums are sown at the end of January. If the winter turned out to be cold, then you can wait another month and sow chrysanthemums in February. The development of seedlings occurs slowly, so if you plant a flower in spring or later, flowering will occur only the next year.

The soil for sowing seeds needs light soil; it can be prepared according to the following scheme:

1 part sand
1 part humus
2 parts leaf soil

Expanded clay, gravel or other material that acts as drainage must be placed at the bottom of the seedling container. Seeds of annual species are planted to a depth of no more than 1 cm. If the chrysanthemum is Korean, then the seeds are laid out on the surface. Sprouts will appear in about 2 weeks; under favorable conditions, the period may be reduced.

While the seedlings are in containers, the ambient temperature should be within 18 degrees. The soil must always be moist; for this, it is periodically sprayed with a spray bottle, preventing it from drying out. Water for spraying is used warm and settled. When several full-fledged leaves appear, the plants dive into separate containers.

The seedlings are transplanted into open ground in early June, and if the weather permits, a little earlier.

An open, sunny place is selected on the site. Should not pass close to the surface groundwater, chrysanthemums do not like stagnant water. The soil should be light and fertile. In the fall, chrysanthemums are dug up and stored in a cool room until spring. This is done only in the first year while the plants are not yet strong. Further, shelters are not required for the winter, especially if the winter is mild.

Planting chrysanthemums in open ground

Growing chrysanthemums in open ground is very simple, but this does not mean that it does not require special conditions:

The most important thing is to choose a sunny area.
In addition, the plant should not be affected by wind and drafts, so it is advisable that the flowers be blocked by a fence or house.
For chrysanthemums you need to find a flat area. This is due to spring period, if the flowers are planted in a lowland, then there is a high risk that when the snow melts, water will flow down and flood the plants. The same applies to rainy weather; a large amount of water can lead to the death of plants.
The ideal option for chrysanthemums is a place near hedges; it will let in light for the flowers and protect them from bad weather.

The flowering period of most varieties falls in autumn, so the light regime should be as natural as possible. If changes are made, the flower petals may change their structure, the stem becomes less durable, and the decorative effect of the flower is significantly reduced.

If the flower does not have enough sun, it will form exclusively flower buds. If the daylight hours are increased, axillary buds, leaves and stems will be formed. That is, for the normal functioning of the plant, it needs normal daylight hours so that all processes take their course.

If it is necessary for the chrysanthemum to bloom a little earlier, then during the formation of buds the plant is covered from the sun. Then flowering can begin 2 weeks earlier.

The Korean variety is the most frost-resistant among the others.

After winter, it begins to actively develop at a temperature of 2 degrees Celsius. If autumn began early and the first frosts fell during the flowering period, then this is not a problem; chrysanthemum can withstand temperatures down to -10 degrees. If a plant freezes during autumn frosts, then after a while it can thaw and continue to bloom.

Chrysanthemum tolerates heat more difficult than cold. On summer days, generative organs are formed, so the plant may not develop. Chrysanthemums are planted in open ground at the very beginning of summer or the end of May. You need to focus on the temperature of the soil, it should have time to warm up to 14 degrees, you need to check the temperature at a depth of at least 20 cm.

Watering chrysanthemums:

Be sure to water the plants after planting, this is especially important to do in July.
If there is a lack of moisture, especially in sunny, dry weather, flower buds may not form. It is from them that inflorescences will grow in the future.
If the soil does not have time to dry out due to large amounts of precipitation, then there is no need to water the plant.
If there is an excess of moisture, the plant will not feel bad, but the juicier the shoots are, the greater the risk that they will freeze during autumn frosts.

We must not forget to moisten the soil in the first weeks after planting seedlings or cuttings that have not yet been rooted. The soil should be fertile, preferably loamy, with an acidity level of 6.5. Loamy soil retains heat well and can protect the flower during cold weather.

To grow chrysanthemums on sandy soil, during digging you will need to add peat and humus to it. If the plants ended up in the garden of their greenhouse, then it is also better to store them indoors for the winter.

Chrysanthemums are often grown in room conditions. In order for chrysanthemums not only to actively develop, but also to bloom in a pot, it is necessary to select good soil.

You can purchase a special composition in the store, or you can prepare it yourself, using the following components:

Garden arable land
Coarse sand
Granulated peat
Bone flour

If you take a bucket of soil, you will need a small pot of bone meal, about 7 cm in size. The pot is not completely filled with compost; 1/3 of the container is not filled. The sprout is added to the mixture. It is installed so that the roots are on the surface, after which the remaining compost is filled in. There is no need to press the soil tightly after planting to avoid damaging the roots. Also, several plants should not be located close to each other.

On initial stage When growing, the soil is moistened with a spray bottle; it should not have time to dry out.

The sprouts should immediately be provided with bright sunlight. The optimal temperature at night is up to 10 degrees Celsius. Within a month, the root system should completely fill the pot. After that young plant transplanted into a larger pot. For adult plants, a slightly different soil composition will be required; it will include the following components:

1 part sand
1 part peat
3 parts garden soil
0.5 parts dry manure
Handful of bone meal

Watering is carried out the day before transplanting the chrysanthemum into a new pot and immediately after. Until the stems of the plant become stronger, they will need support. There is no need to replant the plant anymore, only if the roots have broken through to the surface of the earth.

Chrysanthemums are not only capable of decorating any interior. They are valued for their ability to be grown for cutting. For the latter, annual species are used, in particular the keeled chrysanthemum. In order for potted chrysanthemums to develop more actively, you can use various stimulating biological products. They activate the growth of dormant buds, after which the crown becomes thicker and more buds are formed.

The following drugs are used:

Planta Miracle Growth
Bud
Zircon

It has been experimentally proven that the use of a light solution of potassium humate leads to accelerated plant development, an increase in the volume of the root system, an increase in the size of buds and the overall decorative appearance of plants.

Reproduction, care of chrysanthemums and possible problems

Chrysanthemums can be propagated by several methods:

Rhizome division
By cuttings

Each method has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. The bush is divided immediately after winter. You need to have time to do this before young shoots appear. In the evening, the bush is dug out of the ground, and the rhizome is divided into several parts. These parts are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate and planted on the site.

The site is chosen to be sunny, a distance of 50 cm is maintained between the bushes. Watering is carried out in a thin stream right under the root. In autumn, part of the bush bends over and is buried in soil. To ensure that the branch holds well, staples are used. In the spring, a new shoot with its own root system will begin to grow from this place. In May, the earth is removed and the new shoot is cut off. It can be left in the same place or transplanted to a new one.

The easiest way to propagate chrysanthemums is by cuttings. Besides, it’s guaranteed to turn out the same beautiful bush like an adult. The procedure is carried out in the spring and summer.

Cuttings of chrysanthemums:

After the threat of frost has passed and the ground at a depth of 30 cm has thawed, suitable mother bushes are selected with a lifespan of more than 1 year.
Before propagation, flowers can be fed.
When the ambient temperature reaches +18 degrees, you will notice that new shoots with matte leaves appear on the bush. These shoots will be used for propagation; they are cut off when they reach a length of no more than 25 cm.
In order for rooting to occur successfully, a plot of land with rich, loose soil is prepared and shading is done.
There should be a distance of 20 cm between cuttings.

During the first month, you need to carefully monitor the soil moisture, otherwise roots will not form. At first it may seem that the cuttings are withering, but when the root system is formed they will come to life and begin to grow actively.

Young chrysanthemums need fertilizing every 2 weeks; if the weather is unfavorable or the soil is poor, then fertilizer can be applied every week.

If a large number of buds or peduncles have formed, then it is advisable to remove the smallest and weakest ones. Then the rest will be larger and brighter.

The most common diseases and pests of chrysanthemums:

Gray rot
Powdery mildew
Leaf rust
Root bacterial cancer
Leaf spot
Meadow bug
Chrysanthemum nematode

Most problems arise due to improper care for chrysanthemum, in particular insufficient or excessive watering. Can lead to diseases high humidity air.

Chrysanthemum is unpretentious plant, however, to obtain a lush bush, certain conditions must be met. Nutritious soil and bright light are the main factors for large, bright inflorescences.

In fact, growing chrysanthemums from seeds is not a very troublesome task. Let's just say, no more than behind her. The common ones are simply much more familiar, and it’s easier to take a cutting of a color you already like from your neighbor, Aunt Masha, than to buy who knows what in a bag under the mysterious name “Indian terry mixture”.

But you can ask the same Aunt Masha to collect seeds from your favorite bush in the fall. Well, just for fun. It is not a fact that the flowers will be exactly the same; this method of propagation does not guarantee a complete match of all birth characteristics. But what an exciting process awaits you.

How to grow chrysanthemum from seeds

I’ll say right away, don’t try to grow some tall, capricious varieties from seeds; it’s still better to propagate them by cuttings or dividing the bush. An ordinary Korean small-flowered chrysanthemum is quite suitable for this, especially since it decorates our front gardens so well in the fall.

Seeds, if they are not treated with anything, can first be kept in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection, then they need to be slightly dried to make it more convenient to sow.

What we will need to sow chrysanthemum seeds:

The soil is ordinary garden soil; if it is too heavy, you can add peat and sand.
Containers for seedlings. Can large containers, or you can use separate cups at once, so as not to have to worry about picking.
Watering can with a long spout.
Lamp for illuminating seedlings.
Glass.

Sowing chrysanthemum seeds

Annual chrysanthemums can be sown as seedlings so that they bloom ahead of schedule. This can be done in early May to immediately place the plants in open ground when the weather warms up.

Perennials need to be planted in winter. Their growing season is very long and you may not be able to wait for flowering in the same year. So feel free to sow in mid-January.

We will sow the prepared seeds in disinfected soil. Chrysanthemums often start to get sick various diseases, such as gray rot or powdery mildew. Therefore it is very important to grow healthy seedlings. There are several options for preparing soil for seedlings:

Freezing.
Spilling boiling water.
Calcination in the oven.

To be honest, I am in favor of freezing, so at least some living microflora remains, necessary for plant growth. And after calcination it is simply a dead substance without living organisms.

If you have seeds of small-flowered chrysanthemums, then simply distribute them over the surface of the soil and lightly sand them; you don’t even need to bury them. Everything is moistened from above with a spray bottle and covered with glass.

The containers with seeds will remain under glass for 10 days until the first shoots appear. Now it is necessary to highlight the seedlings; if they are planted in winter, they will not have enough sun. Leave it under the lamp for a total of 10 hour working day...

Chrysanthemum seedlings do not need heat, 18 degrees will be enough, preferably constantly both day and night.

In the phase of 2 true leaves, you need to fertilize. Liquid complex fertilizer for flowers is perfect for this. In general, it is better not to use organic matter before the inflorescences appear; the flowers begin to “fatten”, and more greenery appears than flowers.

During the growth of chrysanthemum bushes, it is necessary to pinch the tops of the longest shoots, thereby forming the bush correctly.

Planting chrysanthemum seedlings in the ground

In mid-May, you can plant plants in open ground. Some, including me, do not leave large-flowered chrysanthemums to overwinter outside in the first year. They are planted separately and a place is chosen without stagnant groundwater.

Small-flowered chrysanthemums are planted immediately on permanent place, they are not afraid of the cold Russian winter. The seedlings are planted at a distance of 30x30 cm and watered a little every day until they take root and begin to grow.

It is still not always possible to grow chrysanthemums from seeds. Reproduced in this way, they often lose their varietal characteristics and they grow up to be a completely different color. Sometimes after cold winter Also, a flower of the wrong color suddenly blooms, so if your winters are cold, dig up the bushes and store them in the cellar.

– herbaceous plants, can be annual or perennial. Belong to the Asteraceae family. Bright flowers of various shapes and colors look equally beautiful both as a cut flower and in a flower bed. Gardeners are well known perennial varieties decorating the site in autumn. However, annual chrysanthemums also have their own advantages in planting and care, which also deserve the attention of flower lovers.

Annual chrysanthemums go through full life cycle(from seed to seed) in one growing season. This is convenient, since you don’t have to worry about how the plant will survive the winter, make complex shelters, or remove the underground part of the flower for storage.

There are several types of annual chrysanthemums, of which the following are most often grown in cultivation:

Keeled or navicular (Ch. carinatum). The plant is from 20 to 70 cm high, the stem is erect. The inflorescences are basket-shaped and can be either simple or double. The diameter of the flower is 5-7 cm. The colors are varied, often not monochromatic, but a combination of white, red, orange or yellow. Seeds of different colors are available in mixtures. Varieties: Cockade, Dunetti, Stern, Merry Mix, Flamen Spiel.
Sowing (Ch. segetum). Grows up to 50-80 cm. It has an erect stem that can branch. The flowers are 3-7 cm in size, can be white or yellow, plain. This type of chrysanthemum looks like an ordinary field chamomile. Can grow like a weed in fields. Varieties: Gloria, Eldorado, Zebra, German flag, Helios, Eastern Star. Gives rich self-seeding.
Crowned (Ch. coronarium). Reaches a height of 70 cm. The stems are fleshy and branched. This species has very decorative dissected leaves. The inflorescence is solitary, up to 7 cm in diameter, can be white or yellow. Popular varieties: Nivea, Orion, Tetra Comet, Primrose Gem, Cecilia, Golden.
Odorless (Ch. inodorum). Fast growing bush up to 20 cm tall. The size of the inflorescences is 5-7 cm. Cultivated variety: Wedding Dress with snow-white double flowers and feathery foliage.
Prominent or rotated (Ch. spectabile). A tall bush, reaches a height of 120 cm and 70 cm in transverse diameter. Inflorescences up to 11 cm in diameter. Varieties: Annette, Cecilia.

All these types of annual chrysanthemums are characterized by long flowering from June to September and even October (depending on the growing region). Some types of chrysanthemums (for example, maidenhair, daisy or marsh), although they are perennial plants, are grown as annuals in our climate. This means that the same growing rules apply to them as to the above species.

Annual chrysanthemums are propagated by seeds, which are sown in two ways:

in March - for seedlings
in May - immediately into open ground (sown and crowned can be sown in April)

Features of growing seedlings:

For seedlings, seeds are sown to a depth of 1 cm in separate containers or common boxes in moist soil. The soil is loose, well permeable to air, with the addition of sand and peat.
To prevent the seeds from going deep, the crops are not watered during the first days, but rather sprayed. In the southern regions, it is possible to sow seeds before winter.
Before emergence (after 5-15 days), the container is covered with film or glass to create greenhouse conditions.
Regular ventilation is necessary, otherwise mold may appear. With the emergence of seedlings, the shelter is removed.
Chrysanthemum - plant temperate climate, high temperature can harm her.
Two weeks after germination, young plants are placed in separate pots and sprayed with growth stimulants for better survival (Epin, Zircon).
A week after such a transplant, they can be fed with universal flower fertilizer.
Optimal conditions for growing seedlings: air temperature 15-18 ° C and good lighting.

Grown plants are planted in the ground when the danger of return frosts has passed. When planting seedlings in a permanent place, the plant is deepened into the ground so that the cotyledon leaves are 1-2 cm below ground level. This method of planting will stimulate the formation of a lush bush.

Sowing immediately in a permanent place has a number of advantages: young flowers immediately adapt to external environment, there is no danger of damaging the delicate roots when transplanting.

However, in this case, flowering will occur several weeks later than with seedling method. On average, annual chrysanthemums bloom 8-10 weeks after sowing.
Seeds are sown in open ground in different ways:

in the holes at a distance of 30-40 cm, 2-3 seeds are placed in one hole
into the grooves

Then the seeds are sprinkled with soil or peat in a layer of 2-3 cm and watered abundantly. To speed up germination, you can cover the bed with film or non-woven material leaving holes for air access. After two to four true leaves appear, the seedlings must be thinned out: one sprout is left in each hole or for every 30-40 cm of groove.

After 10 days, you can feed the young chrysanthemums with complex fertilizer for the first time. The distance between specimens of crowned chrysanthemum is left up to 60 cm.

Annual chrysanthemums are unpretentious plants. The quality of these flowers that is very useful for gardeners is their cold resistance, the ability to withstand return frosts down to 0 °C.
When choosing a landing site, we are guided by the following factors:

maximum illumination with shelter at midday
shelter from drafts
good soil aeration without stagnant water

Annual chrysanthemums do not require rich soils; they prefer light, moderately fertile ones. The attitude towards lime content differs by type: for chrysanthemum keeled, its presence in the soil is beneficial, while chrysanthemum sativum, on the contrary, requires soil poor in lime.

The area where it is planned to place chrysanthemums is prepared in the fall.

They dig it up and apply mineral fertilizers: superphosphate 50 g/m2, potassium sulfate 20-30 g/m2. Depending on the needs of the selected type of flower, lime is added to the soil. Chrysanthemums grow better where manure was added 2-3 years before planting.

Caring for the flower is simple. Watering is required only in hot weather. To prevent the soil from drying out, it is useful to mulch the soil around the chrysanthemum. This will reduce the number of weeds and make maintenance easier. Fertilizers are applied 3-4 times per season, preferably in liquid form (20-30 g per 10 liters of water).

In the first half of summer, until the plant has gained strength, you need to remove weeds and carefully loosen the soil next to the flower. To ensure long flowering, faded buds are regularly plucked off. To ensure that chrysanthemums bush well, their tops are pinched. High varieties are tied up so that they do not lose their decorative effect from exposure to rain and wind.

Among the diseases, chrysanthemum can be affected by gray mold and powdery mildew. Common causes of fungal diseases are increased soil moisture, low temperatures, and excess nitrogen fertilizers.

An external sign of powdery mildew is a whitish coating covering the entire plant. Gray rot appears brown spots, on which plaque gradually forms and a focus of rotting develops. To combat fungal diseases, use a 1% solution (spraying) or other copper-containing preparations.

Among the pests, annual chrysanthemums are attacked by:

thrips
meadow bug

Aphids can be called the main pest of chrysanthemums. It depletes the plant by sucking nutrients from the leaves. For minor infestations, aphids are collected by hand, washed off with water, or cut off along with part of the plant. If there are a lot of pests, use chemicals: Actellik, Aktara, Fitoverm (use according to instructions).

The meadow bug, like the aphid, sucks the juice from the plant. This causes white spots to appear on the leaves. Over time, the leaves turn brown and dry out, and the inflorescences become deformed. Control measures are the same as for aphids. As folk remedy use spraying with a solution of baby shampoo. The external manifestation of thrips activity will be white and yellowish spots on the leaves of the flower. The fight is carried out with special drugs, for example, Actellik.

This unpretentious, long-flowering annual can become a real decoration of the site. He will look good both in mono groups and as part of a mixborder. Particularly beautiful are the flowerbeds of chrysanthemum keeled in different colors. Low-growing varieties are suitable for creating ridges and borders, and for container gardening.

In combination with cosmos, snapdragon, annual chrysanthemums will create the mood in a natural or rustic style. There is a place for the chrysanthemum in the Asian garden, because in these countries it is especially loved. The low-growing, odorless chrysanthemum looks good with, cineraria and. True lovers of this flower can come up with a garden project entirely consisting of annual and perennial chrysanthemums.

In addition to growing in flower beds, keeled and odorless chrysanthemums are used for cutting, as they retain their decorative effect for a long time in bouquets.

The use of crowned chrysanthemum is interesting: in Asian countries, its leaves, young shoots and inflorescences are eaten. The species is valued for its rich content of vitamins B, C, PP, macro- and microelements. It tastes like chrysanthemum. Young leaves and petals are eaten raw in salads; the tougher parts are stewed, boiled or fried, and then used as a side dish.

Thus, the annual chrysanthemum has a number of advantages: it can be grown without seedlings and does not need to be covered for the winter. While perennial chrysanthemums They bloom only in autumn; you will enjoy bright annuals in July.

More information can be found in the video:

Most gardeners love chrysanthemums. These bright autumn flowers can decorate any garden up to late autumn. Everyone knows that chrysanthemums are propagated by dividing queen cells and cuttings. However, the topic of growing them from seeds is still rarely touched upon. So let's talk about it.

Both annual and perennial chrysanthemums can be grown by seeds. Moreover, among perennials, it is mainly Korean ones that are propagated this way.

First, let's look at growing annual chrysanthemums. You can sow the seeds directly into the garden bed in open ground in May. To do this, make holes, the distance between which is maintained at 20 - 25 cm, spill them warm water, put 2 - 3 seeds in each, sprinkled with a little earth. You can put pieces of garden film on top for better heating and moisture retention. As soon as the shoots appear, the film is removed, the soil is carefully loosened, and the emerging weeds are removed. After a week, you can feed the seedlings with highly diluted liquid fertilizer(for example, “Ideal”, “Rainbow”). When young plants reach a height of 5–10 cm and 3–4 true leaves appear in each hole, leave one of the strongest plants. The rest can be plucked out or planted in another place.

One “but” - with such a sowing period, chrysanthemums will have to wait quite a long time - somewhere from the beginning of August.

If you want flowering to occur faster, you should grow chrysanthemums through seedlings. Moreover, it is recommended to grow perennial chrysanthemums from seeds only in this way.

Seedlings are grown in a heated room (usually city apartment or a private house) or in a stationary heated greenhouse.

To do this, at the end of February - beginning of March, seeds are sown in shallow boxes with an earthen mixture. The mixture can be prepared independently from soil collected from a greenhouse, peat and humus taken from equal amount. It is advisable to pre-sieve them and calcinate them at a temperature of 110 - 130 degrees (or steam). Or you can buy ready-made soil for flowers in the store. Drainage is poured into the boxes - broken brick, gravel or expanded clay and fill in the moistened earthen mixture. Seeds are scattered over the surface, and for annual chrysanthemums they are covered with soil to a depth of 0.5 cm, for perennial chrysanthemums they are left on the surface, only lightly pressing the palm against the soil. Crops are sprayed with water from a spray bottle, covered with glass or plastic film and place in a warm place with an air temperature of 23 – 25 °C. Periodically check the crops by ventilating them and spraying them with warm water from a spray bottle, preventing the soil from drying out. If the above conditions are met, friendly shoots should appear in 1.5 - 2 weeks. Then the boxes are placed in the brightest place. Gradually adapting the seedlings to environment, remove the film first for one hour, then for two, and then remove it completely.

If the seedlings have sprouted densely, then when 2 - 4 true (not cotyledon) leaves appear, they are dived into larger containers - cups, boxes, special cassettes. When transplanting, you should try to preserve as much as possible root system seedlings, for this purpose, before picking, generously spill the soil in the boxes with water room temperature, and all transplantation work is carried out as carefully and carefully as possible. Using picking allows you to select the strongest plants and plant them on desired depth and on optimal distance from each other. Weakened or strongly elongated seedlings, as well as those that have not shed their seed coat, are not suitable for picking - such seedlings are discarded. The soil for replanting is used the same as for sowing. Immediately after this procedure, the seedlings are sprayed with a solution of Epin-Extra or Zircon (the solution is prepared according to the attached instructions) - this will help the plants to take root faster and better, and will minimize the risk of losses.

Further, caring for young chrysanthemum seedlings is simple and comes down to maintaining the temperature at 16 - 18 degrees Celsius, timely watering, fertilizing once every two weeks, and, if necessary, additional lighting. At first, the seedlings grow very slowly, after a month and a half they reach a height of about 20 cm.

When will it settle in the street? constant temperature air +15 - 18 °C, it is advisable to take the grown seedlings to the greenhouse - there they will receive better lighting, will be hardened.

As soon as the threat of return frosts has passed, and this is the end of May - beginning of June, you can plant the grown seedlings in a permanent place. Some simple rules– chrysanthemums need maximum sun, fertile soil, and, in addition, these flowers cannot tolerate stagnant water. These factors must be taken into account before planting.

And one more thing. Immediately after planting on the bushes, you need to pinch all the tops, and after the side shoots grow by 15–20 cm, repeat the pinch again. As a result, you will get compact, dense bushes with many inflorescences that will delight you with lush and long-lasting flowering! Good luck!

Chrysanthemums are amazing flowers. When there is no longer a single leaf on the trees, and the air smells of winter, they stand out as bright spots against the background of a dull autumn landscape. These flowers last a long time when cut, so they are used to make autumn bouquets. For some reason, it is believed that it is possible to propagate a chrysanthemum only by dividing a bush or rooting a shoot, but in our article we will tell you how to grow a chrysanthemum from seeds.

When to plant chrysanthemum seeds for seedlings

Seedlings are grown in a heated room (usually a city apartment or private house) or in a stationary heated greenhouse. To do this, at the end of February - beginning of March, seeds are sown in shallow boxes with an earthen mixture.

How to get chrysanthemum seeds

High-quality seeds produce early and mid-flowering chrysanthemums. In late-flowering chrysanthemums, the seeds do not ripen. So, to get seeds from a plant you like:

we plant it in the garden bed as early as possible in the spring;
water regularly, feed;
stepchild;
we make sure that there are from 5 to 8 stems left on a small chrysanthemum, and no more than 3 on a large one;
pinch off, leaving only 1 bud on one stem. This improves the quality of seeds and increases their quantity.

From plants that bloom in mid-summer, seeds are collected while they are still in the garden. With those that continue to bloom in the fall, you should do this:

Cover the bush with film so that the flowers do not get wet if it is not possible to move it to a greenhouse.
Before frost, transplant the chrysanthemum into a pot, bring it into the house and place it on a sunny windowsill. If the bush is grown in a greenhouse, then the receptacle can be damaged by condensation. To prevent this from happening, protect it with gauze or agrofilm.
Collect the seeds as soon as the baskets turn brown. This usually happens in late November-early December. Don't be late, otherwise they will fall asleep themselves.

Selecting a site and soil for planting chrysanthemums

Growing chrysanthemums requires, first of all, heat, so we determine the place for them based on this indicator. The same requirement is also relevant for late autumn planting of small-flowered chrysanthemums, carried out no later than two weeks before frost. In this case, the roots of the seedling are covered with compost, the root collar is deepened by 4-5 cm, covered with earth and insulated on top with leaves. Even if the winter is harsh and the chrysanthemums freeze, with proper care, including fertilizing and adaptogens, they will produce new shoots in the spring.

Important requirements: no stagnant water, good natural light, protection from the wind. With a lack of direct sunlight (less than five hours a day), the stems will not grow stronger and elongate, and the flowering period will be shortened. When choosing soil, you should choose neutral or slightly acidic, rich nutrients, without fresh manure content. It is preferable to plant chrysanthemums using loose vermicompost or humus. We should not forget about the structure of the root system, it is located in upper layers soil, which dictates the rules of moisture: the roots dry out quickly, but also “do not tolerate” excess water.

Growing chrysanthemum from seeds

Start germinating chrysanthemum seeds indoors at least 6 weeks before the last frost.
Use a mixture for germinating chrysanthemums from seeds, which consists of four parts peat moss, two parts perlite and two parts vermiculite.
Fill the tray 2/3 full with the mixture.
Moisten the soil with water using a spray bottle. The soil should be moist, but not soggy.
Sow the seeds evenly over the entire area of the tray. The seeds should lie on the surface of the soil, not covered with soil, as they need sunlight, in order to germinate.
Moisten the seeds with a light mist of water. For best results When germinating seeds, use water at room temperature.
Cover the tray with plastic wrap, this will create Greenhouse effect, which will help keep the seeds warm and moist.
When the seeds have sprouted, remove the plastic wrap.
Seeds germinate in different ways from 7 to 28 days, depending on the variety and location.
Chrysanthemum seedlings are transplanted when the danger of the last frost has passed.

It is better to water pots with seedlings from below so that the flowers take exactly as much moisture as they need. It is better to place them in a warm and bright place. But without direct sunlight, so as not to burn the formed leaves.

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Planting chrysanthemum seedlings in open ground

The best day for planting seedlings is a cloudy, even rainy day. Bright sun will make rooting difficult, forcing young plants to spend extra effort protecting themselves from the scorching rays. Chrysanthemums are planted in a trench or holes, maintaining an interval of 25 to 50 cm between them, focusing on the characteristics of the variety.

Prevention of chrysanthemum diseases and pests

The most common pest that affects them is aphids, spider mite. Various chemicals are used against them: Karbofos, Aktara, Aktellik.

You can use infusions of natural ingredients, for example, tobacco dust, taken at the rate of 500 grams per bucket of water. 50 grams are added to the composition laundry soap. The solution is infused for two days.
An infusion of garlic showed a good effect against pests. To prepare it, you will need to mince 400 grams of garlic. The resulting pulp is diluted in a bucket of water and the plants are immediately treated.
With dense plantings, there is a high risk of nematode development. Signs of damage include pale leaves, curling, and deformed buds. To combat nematodes, it is recommended to change planting sites. It is recommended to plant onions in place of chrysanthemums, cereal crops, garlic and other types of plants that are not susceptible to disease. When transplanting, the roots of chrysanthemums are washed well with water, and if necessary, the bushes are divided. If any part of the plant is infected, the bush is completely disposed of (burnt).
In unfavorable regions, damage to plants can occur gray mold, powdery mildew. For the prevention and treatment of these diseases of chrysanthemums, it is recommended to carry out treatment with three-color spraying of Fundazol, copper oxychloride or Bordeaux mixture. The drugs should be diluted according to the instructions on the package.

Proper care of chrysanthemums

Now let's look at caring for chrysanthemums and the watering process. Chrysanthemums are moisture-loving plants, so it is very important to provide regular watering, especially for young plants, and to prevent the earthen ball from drying out for a long time. Water the plants at the roots using settled water at room temperature. In order to retain moisture, mulch the soil around the plant bushes.

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If there is insufficient natural light, additional lighting may be needed. At proper care seedlings reach 15-20 cm in height in 1.5 months. When the air outside warms up to 15-18 °C, the plants are transferred to the greenhouse. To get a larger top chrysanthemum flower, thin out the side buds immediately after they form. Pinching the buds should be done before mid-June on early-blooming chrysanthemum varieties, until the end of June on those blooming in September, and until early July on varieties blooming in October.