How to lay tiles on a wooden floor. How to lay tiles on a wooden floor - installation features
Ceramic tiles are considered ideal material for walls and floors of rooms exposed to moisture and temperature changes. These are, as a rule, kitchens, bathrooms, baths. True, the process of laying it itself is associated with certain difficulties due to the need to have an appropriate foundation and some experience similar works from a home handyman. As for the second, skillful hands and the desire to carry out your plans at any cost will come to the rescue. But regarding the basis, the issue is controversial. You cannot do without proper knowledge; all work must be carried out in accordance with the requirements technological process, non-compliance with which can lead to the fact that the floor covering will ultimately turn out to be of poor quality and will not be able to perform required functions. In principle, today, carrying out repairs with your own hands is an activity, one might say, even fashionable, so many home craftsmen have at least rudimentary knowledge in this regard regarding the technologies for carrying out certain works. Nevertheless, sometimes there are situations that are perplexing due to the originality of the question. For example: “Can it be laid on tiles?” Agree, this will not come to everyone’s mind, because, as a rule, ceramics are usually laid on a concrete base. And not for wood. However, sometimes there are still situations when it is literally vital to lay tiles on a wooden floor - in a bathhouse, for example, or in the kitchen of a private house. What to do in this case? Is this just a whim of the owner who doesn’t understand anything about finishing work or is this really possible? Let's try to answer this difficult question. So, is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor?
About the compatibility of ceramics and wood
In principle, here you can get by with just a few words. These two materials are practically incompatible. And you can “make friends” with each other only by creating special conditions. The tree cannot tolerate instability of the temperature background, constantly changing its size as it changes. It is not difficult to imagine what will happen to the ceramics, under which, so to speak, lumber lives its own special life, being in constant motion. The tile will naturally begin to crack, move away from the base, and chips will appear on it under the influence of loads. In turn, the tree, tightly “packed” under the ceramics, will not be able to receive the much-needed air, which is why it will begin to rot and deform. In general, it turns out to be a kind of vicious circle. Is it possible to break it? How can the owner of a private house, who can no longer watch without tears how his wood flooring becomes less and less attractive every day from constant exposure to moisture or temperature changes, install tiles on wood or in the kitchen? Let's say right away: this can be done. But you should only do this if you really have good reasons, because the preparation procedure wooden base It will take a lot of time, in addition, it will require very significant expenses, effort and money. Are you ready to part with both the first and the second? Well, good luck. As they say, nothing is impossible. If you really want it, why not try it. True, you will have to thoroughly study the process technology and choose the appropriate option for your case.
When the procedure is not possible
Our home craftsmen are sometimes quite capricious and stubborn. A man needs ceramic tiles for wooden floor- and that’s it. And the last one was installed quite recently; the house was occupied almost a few days ago. This is the option when, unfortunately, you won’t be able to please yourself. Such an idea will have to be abandoned in any case. Because a new wooden floor covering will still have to acclimatize for at least three years, getting used to unusual conditions, and shrink, the end of which must certainly be waited for. And only then implement your plans.
A few words about the basic foundation
So, what does someone who sets out to lay tiles on a wooden floor have in their assets as a basic foundation? We have already said that the new coating is not subject to such arrangement. So, as a base House master will most likely have three types flooring. These are worn-out and unattractive boards lying on relatively strong joists, a floor made of plywood or fiberboard, which also causes despondency in its appearance, but is still amenable to reincarnation, and a relatively strong one that remains in in good condition plank covering on which tiles are required due to current circumstances. Regardless of which option is available, the home craftsman will be faced with one task: to create a strong and even base suitable for laying ceramics. The difference will be the appearance repair work and their volume. Therefore, before laying tiles on a wooden floor - in a bathroom, bathhouse, hallway, kitchen, it doesn’t matter - you need to carefully study the existing base and choose suitable way preparation. Actually, there are two of them. This is dry leveling and wet leveling. But in any case, you need to remember one thing: laying tiles on a wooden floor without a screed and careful preparation of the base will not work. As a matter of fact, difficulties, especially ones created with one’s own hands, will have to be overcome in any case. And to make it easier for the home craftsman, we will then tell you in detail about all the preparation options.
Dry leveling
Its principle is to create an additional rough layer for cladding on an existing base. This can be done by installing sheets of plywood - always moisture-resistant - directly on the existing “original” base, creating an additional floor covering on joists with insulation between the old and new floors, and using ready-made sets of adjustable floors mounted on top of the existing worn-out base. In addition, today there is another material at the disposal of those who want to lay tiles on a wooden floor - gypsum fiber boards. They will not only successfully replace plywood, but also, thanks to their special composition, will help create a normal microclimate for the base boards.
Pros and cons of the dry method
This tile option is considered the most common. Which is not surprising, since it has a lot of advantages and only one drawback. The first concerns primarily the speed of work. You can level the floor in this way quite quickly, without breaks between stages, which most often slow down the repair process. In addition, if you choose the option with logs, then by laying insulation you can significantly increase the insulating qualities of the surface. Well, the third plus is the creation of a minimal load on an already not distinguished quality characteristics. As for the minuses, as we have already mentioned, there is only one - this method of leveling “eats up” the height of the room. Therefore, in rooms with low ceilings It is sometimes inappropriate to use it.
Wet method
Essentially, this is the same screed, the difference is that it is made on wooden surface and with some reservations. The latter include the fact that, firstly, it should be lightweight (no more than three centimeters) due to the not very good condition of the wooden floor and its inability to bear significant loads, and secondly, it is not made over the entire surface, but with gaps along the perimeter. This is a kind of floating option. Thanks to this trick, the ceramic coating will not suffer from the movement of wooden elements, which in any case cannot be calmed in any way.
Advantages and disadvantages of screeds
Here, in principle, everything is quite conditional. The undoubted advantage of this method is that it will have virtually no effect on the height of the room, but a huge disadvantage is that the procedure itself is quite lengthy, requiring significant breaks between stages. But sometimes those who are looking for an answer to the question of whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor have no choice. If a screed is the only acceptable option, then you will have to put up with temporary losses.
Well, now that we’ve sorted out the theory, let’s move on directly to the process itself.
Preparing the old floor
Whatever leveling method the home craftsman prefers, the old plank base requires preparation in any case. It will not be possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a bathroom, or even in a room less exposed to moisture, without carrying out preliminary repair work and cleaning the base surface.
First of all, you need to check the integrity of the floorboards and the joists themselves. If any elements become unusable, they need to be replaced. Then you need to remove all the paint. If you plan to make additional flooring on joists, then the base leveling is not required, but if plywood, gypsum fiber board, chipboard or wet screed, you will have to arm yourself with a grinding machine and carefully cut off all the humps. Then the old floorboard should be treated with an antiseptic and existing cracks should be filled with putty if possible. And then be sure to drill ventilation holes. And only then start leveling.
Leveling process without screed
In principle, there is nothing complicated here. If an additional floor covering is created on joists, then first the supports are installed with a step between them of 30 cm, then the insulation is laid, after which everything is covered with moisture-resistant plywood. If you plan to level the prepared board base with just plywood or GVL sheets, then they are attached directly to the base surface with self-tapping screws. All resulting seams and cracks around the perimeter must be sealed. Foam is excellent for these purposes. Upon completion of installation work, the new surface is primed. Experts advise not to save money and purchase “Betonokontakt”.
Note!
Important point! If the master decides to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a bathhouse with his own hands or in a bathroom, that is, in those rooms that are most susceptible to moisture, then before leveling it is necessary to lay a waterproofing layer on the wooden surface. It can be thick polyethylene, bitumen paper, or roofing felt.
Filling the screed
In this case, regardless of the room in which the work is carried out, a layer of waterproofing is required. After this, a reinforcing mesh is applied to it, and sides made of a special tape, which in the language of experts is called damper tape, are installed around the perimeter of the room. Remember we mentioned that the screed should not be monolithic, but floating? This limiter will create the necessary conditions. After this you can fill in any suitable mixture for screed. It is best, of course, to take a leveling compound. After drying (this process should take at least two weeks), the surface is primed. At this point, the question “is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor” is considered closed. Now you can. Which, in fact, is the time to start after the primer has dried.
Laying tiles
So, on a wooden (photo of the final result below) floor? Yes, exactly the same as on the usual Now, after competent preparation, there won't be any problems. The only nuance that you should pay attention to: it is better to buy tile adhesive not ordinary, but more durable, intended for porcelain tiles.
Choose the laying pattern that you like best (traditional, diagonal, brick, etc.) and begin the process. If you select a diagonal, then start from the center. If there is another way, then from the most visible angle, so that the trimming is not noticeable. The adhesive composition is applied directly to the base, the rows are laid strictly under level control. Try not to have a very thick layer of glue, as it creates additional stress on an already insufficiently strong base, which is a wooden floor. After installation, the joints are grouted. This can be done a day after the end of the whole process.
Conclusion
What conclusion can be drawn? As we found out, it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor. The main thing is to competently carry out all the necessary preparatory work and create a reliable and even base for the tiles.
A wooden floor will require significant effort during the preparation phase.
How to lay tiles on a wooden floor yourself: difficulties and features of the process
Generally speaking, ceramics are far from the best option for combining with wood. It's connected with different characteristics these two materials:
- wood tends to change its size as a result of exposure external factors: when humidity rises, the tree expands; when humidity drops, on the contrary, it can dry out. In many cases, this leads to deformation of the tile covering and the appearance of cracks;
- unlike tiles, wood is highly susceptible various kinds destructive processes and is much inferior in service life to ceramics. Therefore, you can often encounter a situation where, due to destruction wooden backing you have to dismantle the tiles;
- The tile coating, together with the water-repellent glue, blocks access to the wood of oxygen, which is necessary for the full service of the tree. As a result, a significant reduction in the service life of the base;
- Only the lightest tiles can be used for laying on top. Otherwise, its weight will be too great for the wooden base and over time the tile will fail.
So, is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor? Can. But this is a rather complicated process. If you're still confident in your decision to install ceramic tiles over wood floors, be prepared to put a lot of effort into it. But the result is worth it, so let's move on to preparing the base. Let's look at how to lay tiles on a wooden floor step by step.
Helpful advice! It is strictly not recommended to lay tiles on top of a wooden floor that has not been installed for at least two years. This risks causing the tiles to crack during shrinkage.
Basic requirements for data processing construction work, look like this:
- provide oxygen access to the lower layers of the coating (wood);
- distribute evenly permissible loads over the entire surface;
- ensure the stability of the base.
In order for all these points to be met, it is necessary to plan the order of work and follow the plan. It would also be useful to look various videos on how to lay tiles on wood floors.
Assessing the condition of the coating: is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor?
The first stage involves a thorough inspection and assessment of the condition of the wooden base. To do this, it is best to remove the top boards and carefully inspect all structural elements: beams, joists, each board on both sides, insulation, etc.
If there are any signs of damage, the base section must be replaced or repaired. What you should pay special attention to:
- presence of rot. There are many types of rot, so you need to carefully inspect the surface. Regardless of the type of fungi that generate this process, the wood softens, changing its color or structure. Checking for the presence of rotting elements is carried out as follows: you must insert an awl into any fragment that makes you suspicious. Easy entry is a reliable indicator of destructive processes in wood. All affected elements must be eliminated, and adjacent parts must be treated with special antiseptics for wood;
- wood-boring beetle larvae. These insects destroy wood, gnawing many passages in it. To solve the problem, the same approach is used as in the first case - replacing the damaged area and carefully treating it with a special compound.
Most of the processes destructive to wood develop as a result of high humidity. Therefore, installing tiles on a wooden floor in a bathroom requires special attention. In dry rooms, the development of fungi can occur as a result of a violation of the integrity of the heat-insulating layer. Considering these factors, it is worth carefully checking the waterproofing materials for damage. You may need to lay down an additional layer.
Helpful advice! Fungal spores are present in almost any wood. The only way to prevent them from ruining the floor is to carry out high-quality processing antiseptics and create the most unsuitable living conditions for them.
If none of the above defects were found on your floor or you have already eliminated all existing defects, then you can lay tiles on a wooden floor.
How to lay tiles on plywood: preparatory stages of work
Before you start preparing for installation ceramic tiles on a wooden floor, you must make sure that the distance between the joists does not exceed 50 cm. Otherwise, it is necessary to install additional supports, since otherwise the structure may not withstand the weight of the coating and fail. As a useful source of information, you can use the videos presented on the Internet: how to lay tiles on a wooden floor is discussed in some detail.
Helpful advice! Don’t forget to treat all new ones with antiseptic agents. wooden elements.
Next, you need to check how even the logs are, what is it used for? building level. As a rule, during the shrinkage process, irregularities appear due to uneven subsidence of wooden parts. All these defects must be eliminated by cutting off excess elements with a plane or, conversely, by additionally lining small pieces of bricks or any other material. If it is not possible to push the missing element under the bottom, you can stuff an additional board on top, trimming it to the required height.
After leveling, it is necessary to treat the coating against fungus and bacteria. To do this, use the product with as long a break between repeated treatments as possible and follow all the recommendations specified in the instructions.
The most common surface treatment before laying ceramic tiles on a wooden floor is hot drying oil. For quality protection it must be reapplied several times (up to five). The product is a completely natural, environmentally friendly impregnation. Each subsequent layer of drying oil is applied after the previous one has completely dried. You can make sure it is dry by touching the surface - it should not be sticky.
The main thing in the process of treating with drying oil is not to let it cool down, because its antiseptic effect directly depends on the temperature: the hotter it is, the better it destroys larvae, spores and bacteria. In addition, when hot, drying oil is more liquid and can penetrate deeper into microcracks.
Helpful advice! Heating drying oil is an unsafe process. Its vapors can be flammable, so placing the container on the stove is strictly prohibited. When heating the septic tank, keep it over the stove and, just in case, prepare a piece of tarpaulin that can be used to extinguish the source of fire.
How to lay tiles on a wooden floor: necessary cleaning of the boards
If all previously removed boards are in satisfactory condition, they can be reinstalled after first cleaning them of the old varnish or paint with which they were covered. This can be done while you wait for the antiseptic solution to dry completely.
To remove varnish and paint residues from the surface of the boards, you can use the following methods:
- construction hair dryer set to a temperature of 200-250 °C. A stream of hot air must be directed at the paint, as a result of which it will begin to swell with bubbles. To remove it, use a spatula, knife or scraper. In some sources you can find recommendations for use blowtorches, however this is not very good idea. There is a high probability of overheating of wood, and, as a result, deterioration of its technical characteristics;
- chemical removers are a gel-like mass and are sold in almost all hardware stores. This remover must be applied evenly to the surface and after a while removed with a spatula along with the softened paint. The only drawback of this method is the considerable cost of the material when it comes to processing large area gender;
- mechanical cleaning involves peeling paint from the surface with a spatula or sandpaper without use auxiliary materials. It's cheap, but it takes a lot of time. A sanding machine will help speed up the process significantly.
If, after removing the coating, you find any defects that were not noticed before, it is better to replace the damaged areas. In addition, all boards are subject to antibacterial treatment. After the impregnation is completely absorbed, you can begin laying the subfloor under the tiles.
How to Lay Ceramic Tile on a Wood Floor: Laying a Subfloor
The process of laying a subfloor begins with laying an insulating layer. The material you choose should be non-hygroscopic. This will keep the area underneath the tiles dry and prevent bacteria and fungi from growing there. Also, the material must have a minimum weight in order to create as little load as possible.
Extruded propylene foam can be considered a suitable option. Due to its synthetic origin, it prevents the development of any living organisms on its surface. True, of this material There are also disadvantages: it does not allow air to pass through well and is quite expensive.
As an alternative, expanded clay can be used. It is natural and conducts air well. However, it has more weight and a more hygroscopic structure.
Whatever insulation you prefer, it must be laid out on top of the layer
Mineral wool was used as insulation for the flooring.
If you want a heated floor under tiles on a wooden floor, then in this case it is better to seek help from professionals. Installation of the system is quite complex and requires a certain level of skill.
When all the boards are laid and secured, they can be puttied and then leveled using grinder. All cracks must be sealed with foam. It is flexible enough to allow the wood to expand, but can also support the weight of the tiles and adhesive.
Ceramic tile - best coverage for floors in rooms where wet cleaning is often carried out or where there is high dampness.
The material is difficult to install and even when laid on a stable monolithic concrete, places high demands on the qualifications of the master.
If the base is made of wood, the process becomes much more complicated. Next, we will tell you how to lay tiles on a wooden floor so that the coating is strong and durable.
Bases for tiles are usually divided into two categories:
- simple;
- complex.
The tree is classified as the second type due to the following features:
- Low load bearing capacity: tiles and - heavy materials and not every wooden structure can withstand such a load.
- Need for aeration: tiles are an airtight coating, and without air access the wood is destroyed.
- Short service life: a wooden base will require repairs much sooner than ceramic tiles. This means that the user will one day be forced to knock down expensive finishing material, despite its good condition.
What distinguishes wood from other materials is its mobility, which implies the ability to:
- shrink;
- bend under loads;
- transmit vibrations;
- shrink and swell with changes in humidity.
The greatest mobility is observed in the first year or two after construction, when the tree shrinks.
Tiling can only be done after this period. The above does not apply to dried lumber with a moisture content of 8-12%.
Thus, laying tiles on a wooden floor is possible under the following conditions:
- the structure is strengthened and the load is minimized so that deformation is eliminated;
- the tree has already shrunk;
- the condition of all floor elements is ideal and repairs will not be required soon;
- for the same purpose, the wood is carefully treated with antiseptics;
- there is a layer between the base and the tile that allows the wood to change sizes, but at the same time maintaining a stable shape;
- there is air access to lumber.
Let's see how all these requirements are implemented in practice.
Preparatory work
Preparation of the base consists of several operations.
Dismantling floor boards and checking the condition of all elements located underneath them - from joists to vapor barriers
All damage is eliminated, and if it is significant, new materials are installed. Special attention require:
- Layed on top of the ground vapor barrier film: if there are holes in it, steam enters the floor structure, which promotes the development of mold colonies and rotting fungi.
- Wooden elements.
Laying plywood on a wooden floor (with glue) to level the base under the tiles
It is important to remove rotten areas, stripping them down to completely healthy tissue, and treat all lumber with one of the antiseptics:
- hot drying oil;
- sodium fluoride solution (50 – 100 g per 10 l of water);
- copper sulfate;
- any factory-made antiseptic for interior work.
Rotten areas are recognized by their soft structure - a knife or awl can easily penetrate them.
It is necessary to bring the drying oil to the desired temperature carefully: if it overheats, its vapors will ignite. If you lack experience, it is better to apply impregnation without heating.
Gain and Leveling
When the lag pitch is more than 50 cm, intermediate ones are laid between them to prevent sagging of the floor boards. New beams are also treated with impregnations.
The upper edges of the joists must lie in the same plane - then the base will be perfectly flat. During construction, they are placed this way, but due to uneven shrinkage, distortions occur, so alignment is necessary. Protruding beams are trimmed with a plane, sagging ones are placed on supports or thin boards are stuffed onto them, then the thickness is adjusted with a plane.
Installation of boards
The dismantled floorboard, if it is in good condition, returns to its place. Before this, varnish or paint is removed from it using one of the following methods:
- Heat construction hairdryer: fast and inexpensive option. When air is supplied at a temperature of 200C - 250C, the paint and varnish coating lags behind the wood, swelling with bubbles, so that it can easily be cleaned off with a spatula. This effect due to a significant difference in the thermal conductivity coefficients of paint and wood. From metal and concrete foundations You cannot remove paint this way.
- Wash treatment: that's what they call it chemicals, intended for removal paint coatings. Available in the form of a ready-made solution (available in liquid and gel form) and a dry mixture. The paint can be easily removed after treatment, but for large volumes of surfaces, this method is expensive.
- Processing with abrasive tools: The manual method is labor-intensive, while the mechanized method (using an angle grinder or a drill with a special attachment) is dusty and requires mastery of the tool.
Finished floor - tiles on wood
If damage is detected (cracks, woodworm passages, rotten areas), the boards are rejected.
The boards are laid on the joists with gaps of 3–4 mm, and between the boards and the walls - 1 cm.
The gaps eliminate the occurrence of stresses when wood expands due to changes in temperature or humidity.
Before installing the flooring, you must make sure that there is a ventilation gap of at least 5–7 mm between it and the insulation.
The boards are secured to the joists with corrosion-resistant nails or self-tapping screws:
- galvanized;
- oxidized (black);
- phosphated.
The board is attached to the outer joists with two hardware, and to the rest - with one.
Irregularities are puttied, then the boards are sanded with a grinder.
Finally, all gaps are filled with polyurethane sealant ( polyurethane foam). This elastic composition will transform the flooring from cracked to solid and at the same time allow the boards to expand freely. The gaps are foamed little by little: when curing, the sealant significantly increases in volume. The exposed material is cut off flush with the floor.
Waterproofing
In order to impart hydrophobic properties, the flooring is generously treated in several stages with latex impregnation or hot drying oil.- polyethylene;
- glassine or other bituminous material;
- paraffin-impregnated material;
- painting mesh.
The overlap of the painting mesh panels is 5-10 cm, all others - 10-15 cm. The overlapping areas are taped.
How to properly lay tiles on a wooden floor
The next step is to form a rigid base for the tiles. One of three types of screeds is used: wet, dry and semi-dry.
“Wet” screed on a wooden floor under tiles
This is an option for rooms with high humidity. It's set up like this:
- a mesh of steel wire with a diameter of 3-5 mm with a mesh of 20x20 mm is laid on the separator substrate;
- install beacons, checking their horizontalness with a building level;
- pour cement-sand mortar in a layer 3 cm thick;
- align it with the beacons using a rule (for this, the distance between the beacons is made slightly less than the length of the rule);
- remove the beacons and fill the remaining openings with solution.
A thickness of 3 cm is optimal. If the value is lower, the screed will crack; if it is higher, it will be too heavy for the wooden flooring.
Wet screed
If a drain (shower) is installed in the floor, the screed is made with a slope towards it, for which special beacons are used. They are often supplied complete with drains.
IN washing departments instead of the usual cement-sand mortar waterproof polymer is used. Purchased ones are expensive, so they are often used homemade version prepared according to the following recipe:
- polyurethane glue or liquid glass(KS glue can be used): 2 parts;
- coarse sand (must be sifted and washed): 2 parts;
- water: 1 part.
A “wet” screed dries completely and gains strength after 28 days.
"Semi-dry" screed
This option also applies cement-sand mixture, but with a limited amount of water. “Semi-dry” screed has the following advantages:
- the time for complete drying and hardening is only 4 days, the tiles can be laid after 3 days;
- in comparison with the “wet” analogue, it has less weight, therefore the load on the wooden base is reduced;
- can be laid quickly, it is possible to use mechanized installation means;
- there is no risk of moisture penetration into the underlying layers;
- can be used on any base, including crushed stone, sand or wood;
- does not shrink (little water evaporates).
Semi-dry screed
A “semi-dry” screed is inferior to a “wet” one only in penetrating ability: it fills bottlenecks - seams and cavities - worse. The situation is improved by adding plasticizers to the solution. The “semi-dry” screed is reinforced, just like the “wet” screed - with wire mesh and fiberglass.
For every 10 m2 of area, components are taken in the following quantities:
- Portland cement grade 400 and above: 25 kg;
- fine-grained river sand(clay impurities - no more than 3%): 60 l;
- fiberglass: 75 g.
After thorough mixing for 3 minutes. Add water little by little until the solution reaches the consistency of sticky clay sand (forms into a lump).
It is useful to add fiber fiber threads to the solution - additional reinforcement reduces the likelihood of cracking to zero.
"Dry" screed
In rooms with normal humidity (corridor, hallway) over waterproofing instead of cement mortar You can lay one of the following materials:- cement bonded particle boards;
- gypsum fiber sheets;
- moisture-resistant plywood;
- moisture-resistant drywall: the material, due to its fragility, is used only for lack of anything better.
The slabs are laid with a rotation of 30-45 0 relative to the boards so that the seams do not coincide. They are screwed along the perimeter with self-tapping screws in increments of 25-30 cm and another in the center. The seams are filled with a compound to seal the gaps between the sheets moisture-resistant plasterboard, for example, with cement putty “Polyrem SSHP-421”, and after hardening it is polished.
After installing the screed, tiles are glued onto it in the usual way.
To cover a wooden floor with ceramic tiles, a large amount of work needs to be done. But if everything is done correctly, in accordance with the recommendations outlined above, the floor will not be inferior in quality and durability to concrete.
In construction, one of the issues may be the use of materials with different properties together. Many people have doubts about how to lay tiles on a wooden floor themselves and whether this can be done. When working with your own hands, it is important to carefully study all the pitfalls of the process so that problems do not arise during the construction or operation of the house. If you choose the right materials and lay them in accordance with the technology, you can avoid a lot of troubles.
When the need arises
Many old buildings suggest the presence wooden floors. In addition, when building houses of the following categories, you will need to lay ceramics on a wooden base:
- frame;
- frame-panel;
- lumber;
- log
In all these cases, the design of the house assumes the presence wooden floors, therefore, when using ceramic tiles as finishing material, you need to lay it down correctly.
Most main question in this case: is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor. Laying is possible, you just need to take into account some features of the base. The main rooms in the house where ceramics need to be placed are:
- bathrooms;
- bathroom premises;
- kitchens;
- halls;
- corridors;
- hallways;
- utility rooms (for example, laundry room).
In all these cases, there is no better option than laying the tiles yourself. Since this material has high strength, wear resistance, moisture resistance and ease of cleaning.
Preparatory stage
Before you begin laying tiles on a wooden floor, you need to carefully inspect the subfloor to make sure it is stable. The need is caused by the following factors:
Scheme for replacing a wooden floor before laying tiles - Different deformability of ceramics and wood. In the case of wood, some bends and deflections are possible: wood can easily adapt to minor deformations due to its own flexibility. Ceramics is a rigid material that requires a rigid base. If you lay it on an unstable base, large-format floor tiles will crack. The only way out will be to replace the flooring in the house and strengthen the foundation. But it would be right to prevent this and make sure that the wooden floor or ceiling is stable before starting work.
- If small-format tiles are used, if the quality of the base is unsatisfactory, it is not the tiles that cause cracks, but the cement joints. This problem is also not pleasant, since dirt accumulates in cracks and crevices and worsens appearance coverings. In the bathroom, this is compounded by moisture getting into the cracks. If the base is very unstable, the floors in the house become uneven, which adds problems during operation.
It is important to remember that tiles have a fairly large mass. Laying tiles on a wooden floor creates additional stress on the floors and substructure. When conducting a thorough visual inspection required to identify:
- sagging of flooring boards in the bathroom and other rooms in which you plan to lay tiles yourself;
- floor creaking;
- damage from fungus, mold or other organisms;
- instability of all or individual elements of the system;
- loose fastenings.
If at least one of these problems is identified, the floor needs to be repaired, strengthened or rebuilt. In some cases, an effective method will be complete disassembly wooden floor and pouring cement screed. This is true for older houses with wooden floors. If we are talking about a house with wooden floors, the issue of reinforcement may arise load-bearing structures.
Depending on the condition of the floor, they choose the method of laying ceramic tiles.
Good condition of the base
If we are talking about a new building or if the wooden floors and ceilings are intact, you can perform the work in the following order:
- Preparing a wooden floor for tiles. First, all wooden elements are treated with antiseptics. These compositions will prevent damage to wood by mold, mildew and harmful microorganisms. Processing is required. Fire retardants can also be used as additional protection for wood. These substances increase the material's resistance to fire. The event is not mandatory when building a house with your own hands; it is carried out at the request of the future owner. The next step Before laying tiles in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen (wet areas), a layer of waterproofing is applied. There are a variety of leaks that can occur in your bathroom that can lead to flooding or damage. wooden structures. As protective materials roofing felt, linocrom, waterproofing, and polyvinyl chloride (PVC) film are used.
- After preparation is completed, gypsum fiber sheets are placed on the floor and secured with self-tapping screws. It is important to choose a moisture-resistant material, this is especially true for rooms with wet processes (bathrooms, toilets, kitchens). Laying is done staggered, which means there are no extended joints in any direction. Before laying tiles in the bathroom or other rooms, the hypofiber sheets are secured to the base with self-tapping screws. The pitch of the fasteners is 15 cm. At the joints, the material is fastened with glue. Next, to ensure ventilation, holes are drilled in random places, after which the joints are primed. When the primer has dried, ceramic tile adhesive is applied to the gypsum fiber. The composition must be suitable for working with drywall.
- Laying tiles. Work should begin from the brightest corner of the bathroom or other room. Crosses are used to create seams. To level the surface and remove excess glue from under the tiles, you will need a special rubber hammer.
After the solution has dried, the crosses are removed and the joints are grouted.
The joists are in good condition, but the decking is damaged.
If the flooring boards in your bathroom, toilet or kitchen have rotted, they will need to be replaced. They do this in the following order:
- Removing old flooring and deck boards.
- Checking the integrity of the joists, the quality of their fastening, and the evenness of the installation.
- If the logs are in good condition, begin preparing the wood. For this it is processed protective compounds, such as antiseptics or fire retardants.
- Lay waterproofing. The materials that can be used are indicated in the previous paragraph. The layer is fixed between the lags.
- If necessary, provide thermal insulation between the bars. Can be used mineral wool(mats or slabs), polystyrene foam, penoplex, polyurethane foam, expanded clay.
- Attach new deck boards. Fastening is done using self-tapping screws. In this case, it is necessary to provide gaps between the boards of 5-10 mm. They are needed so that the boards do not move when the wood is deformed.
- Afterwards, the work is performed in the same way as in the previous case, starting from point 2.
Poor floor condition
If the structure is severely damaged, there are two scenarios:
- complete replacement of the wooden floor (flooring and joists);
- removing the floor and pouring the concrete screed.
The second option is best suited for houses with reinforced concrete floors. The first is considered in the case wooden buildings. Screed is preferable because such floors do not cause problems over time.
As the wood ages, defects such as creaking, rotting, and sagging will reappear. But if tiles are laid on the floor, it is not easy to remove them; serious repairs will be required with labor-intensive removal of the floor covering.
After replacing the base with a wooden one, work is carried out as if the floor is in good condition, starting from point 2. If the decision is made to pour the screed, installation is carried out using the appropriate technology.
It is usually found in all old apartments, but is also often found in new homes. Moreover, such a base can be installed in any room, from the bedroom to the bathroom. Ceramic tiles, as you know, are one of the best materials that can withstand prolonged exposure to moisture without damaging themselves, which is why this type of coating is installed in bathrooms and kitchens. But how to lay tiles on a wooden floor if there is one in all rooms? After all, there is an opinion that such a coating and wood are incompatible.
Experienced craftsmen who have been decorating premises for many years say that ceramic tiles and a wooden base are incompatible things. Many people believe that it is pointless to cover a wooden base with tiles, since the floors will be cold and unpleasant, unlike the cozy ones made of wood.
Another factor influencing the opinion of experts is the fact that under the layer of tile adhesive and the tile itself, the base simply will not “breathe” properly, which is why it will quickly become unusable. The formation of the opinion that wood and ceramics are incompatible was also influenced by the fact that the service life of these materials is quite different from each other - wood will become unusable much faster than ceramics, and the mobility of the wooden base will significantly affect the fact that rather fragile tiles can be damaged .
That is why the use of tiles on a wooden base in order to reduce the impact of moisture on the latter is a rather controversial issue. Although this is precisely the argument that is often given in favor of arranging a tiled covering on a wood base.
On a note! If the tiles will be laid in a house under construction or already built, but a new one, it is best to install this type of covering on - you just shouldn’t install wooden floors where you plan to install this type of covering. Also, tiles cannot be laid on a newly installed wooden floor, since the wood will “get used” to the operating conditions within 2-3 years, rest and will “play” for a long time.
It is important to remember that a tile coating, due to the severity of the adhesive/finishing material, significantly increases the pressure on the floors, and if they are made of wood, they may not be designed for such additional weight and will quickly become unusable - they will break.
It is believed that wooden base for tiles it is good because it does not have to be further leveled, and this is true to some extent. Indeed, a number of preparatory work will only be carried out if the floors are already quite old and need some repairs. Relatively fresh wood usually lies well, does not warp, and in terms of the evenness of the base, it is one of the best options for tiles that are demanding on this indicator. The rest does not speak in favor of the close proximity of ceramics and wood. In general, it is only advisable to lay tiles if the wood is actually constantly exposed to significant water damage.
Prices for Tarkett floor tiles
Tarquette floor tiles
When the need arises
If there are so many “contraindications” for laying tile coverings on a wooden base, then why does this type of repair work still take place? It's simple - sometimes the ceramic coating just has to be mounted on a wooden base. This may be in the following cases:
- in timber, log, frame houses;
- in case of constant exposure to large quantities of water on a wooden base;
- with fairly frequent wet cleaning in a room with a wooden floor;
- in bathrooms, kitchens, bathrooms, saunas, baths.
How to correctly lay tiles on a wooden floor
The guarantee that tiles lying on a wooden floor will last long years, is only her correct styling, during which the certain rules installation Subtleties of technology and recommendations:
- for such work, only light tiles with low density can be used;
- the base of the floor must be strong and reliable;
- the subfloor must be thoroughly checked and prepared if necessary;
- tiles can be laid on a wooden base laid out at least two years ago;
- to the wood from the bottom of the floor should be supplied Fresh air to avoid the onset of rotting processes;
- the load should be distributed evenly;
- the base should be as motionless as possible.
First of all, the base of the floor must undergo a certain test. It is carefully examined, thanks to which it is possible to assess its condition. The floor should not bend, creak or crunch underfoot. The base should be as level as possible - any sagging floorboards should be replaced with new ones.
Attention! If you lay tiles on a sagging wooden floor, then it will certainly collapse under the pressure of feet and furniture - it will begin to crumble and break, as the wood underneath it will sag and “walk.” It is important to ensure the stability and reliability of a wooden floor before purchasing the material and starting work.
Also when installing tiles small size On an unprepared and unreliable base, there is a risk that it is not the tile itself that will crack, but the seams between the individual elements of the coating. Because of this, moisture will begin to get under the tile layer and undermine the wood. And dirt will accumulate in open seams.
Also, preparing the base includes replacing floorboards affected by fungus. The fact is that if they are not removed, the fungus will eventually spread throughout the entire base and significantly reduce its service life. The result is destruction of the base and damage to the tile covering.
Important! Laying a layer between them will help reconcile the wooden base and tiles, which will compensate for floor movements and prevent them from negatively affecting the tile surface.
Good condition of the base
So, it was found that it is possible to lay tiles on a good, reliable base. So how is work done in this case?
Step 1. First of all, the base of the floor is prepared. All debris is swept away from it, the wooden base is treated with special protective preparations for wood, which will help it fight beetles, fungus, and mold. Next, a layer is mounted on the floor surface waterproofing material so that its individual strips overlap and are secured with tape. Next, an additional leveling material is mounted on the surface, which will not “walk” like the wood itself, which means it will keep the tile intact. This can be plywood, moisture-resistant gypsum fiber sheet, etc. The material is attached to the base using self-tapping screws in increments of 15-20 cm. The joints of the material are coated with glue.
Step 2. Calculation in progress required quantity tiles The number of elements will directly depend on the size of individual copies of the material, as well as on the area of the room being repaired. In order to find out required quantity material, the area of the room is divided by the area of one tile. It turns out total number required material.
Important! It is necessary to buy ceramic tiles with a small margin in case some of the material is damaged during installation. Tiles are a rather fragile material until they are laid on the base and break easily.