How to connect a heated towel rail to a hot water riser and a heating circuit with your own hands. Rules for connecting a heated towel rail, expert advice Installing a heated towel rail on old pipes with taps

The need for a heated towel rail in the bathroom is probably not worth discussing - this device is definitely useful, and it takes up little space. Usually the bathroom already has such a device, but sooner or later it requires replacement - and here we get the opportunity to install a much better device.

What types of heated towel rails are there and how to attach them correctly - we’ll figure it out.

Choosing a heated towel rail

Type 2. Water heated towel rails

Typical bathrooms typically use pipe drains to dry towels and wet laundry. hot water or a separate circuit powered from (less commonly). Also, instead of such compromise solutions, a special tubular coil can be used, but in any case, the principle of operation of the device remains unchanged. The coolant circulating inside the device transfers its temperature to its walls, which in turn ensure effective drying of towels.

The main difference between the models is their configuration, as well as what material the dryer pipes are made of:

Illustration	Material
	Stainless steel. pros- products are inexpensive, and therefore they are produced in large quantities and a wide range. Besides, steel pipes tolerate mechanical loads well. Minuses- steel, even coated protective compounds, will be susceptible to corrosion in a humid environment. In addition to this, upon contact with hard tap water Scale forms inside the heated towel rail. Salt deposits on the walls not only increase hydraulic resistance, but also reduce heat transfer.
	Black coated metal. Instead of of stainless steel heated towel rails can be made from ordinary steel with an anti-corrosion coating. The pros and cons of this type of product are similar to those described in the previous column of the table. As for the coating, it can be metal (most often chrome or chromium-nickel) or enamel. The first is stronger, but less resistant to corrosion. Enamel, on the contrary, is practically not susceptible to chemical influences, but when struck it can affect the base.
	Non-ferrous metals. Making a water heated towel rail from copper or brass solves the main problem - corrosion. These materials do not rust, and the patina on the copper surface acts as a kind of insulator that prevents oxidation. Additional plus- attractive appearance these metals. Minuses: electrochemical corrosion at the joint copper pipes with pipes made of stainless steel or other metal; damage to the internal surface of the heated towel rail by suspended abrasive particles, causing the accumulation of salts; high (from 3 thousand rubles and more) price.

In addition, installing a heated towel rail of this type is quite a labor-intensive undertaking. The complexity depends on the device design, connection method and a number of other parameters. Therefore, you should take on work only after careful preparation!

Type 1. Electric models

In bathroom small size, as well as in a room in which there are no leads for a heated towel rail, you can install electrical device. The advantages of such heated towel rails are their compact size, sufficient efficiency and variety of shapes. There is essentially only one drawback - high energy consumption.

Electrical device design:

1. Frame. The heated towel rail itself is a “ladder”, “coil” or other multi-sectional device, which is made of steel or a light alloy with an anti-corrosion coating.

1. Heater. Inside the housing there is a heating element, most often of a tubular type. The heater power ranges from 300–400 to 1500 W or more.

The most powerful heaters are used in large bathrooms, as well as in hotel bathrooms and. For a typical apartment, 400 W is quite enough.

1. Control. Electric heated towel rails are usually equipped with a power regulator. This allows you to select the heating temperature of the working surfaces. You need to dry the towel quickly - turn it on to maximum, and if you don’t need to rush, set it to low heat and save electricity.

1. Power supply. There are two options here - a permanent connection to the network (hidden or open) or connection to an outlet. The second option is preferable, but it is extremely important that the outlet is waterproof. In a bathroom, the probability of water drops getting on the body is close to 100%, so it’s better to be safe in advance.

The result is a fairly effective device, which is installed with minimal labor costs. That's why, if there is an outlet in the bathroom, then choosing an electric heated towel rail will be completely justified.

Installation technology

Option 1. Installation and connection of the water system

So, let's figure out how to install a towel dryer with your own hands. Let's start with more complex option- water device.

For work we will need:

1. The heated towel rail itself.
2. Angle or straight fittings.

A universal option for connecting such products is “American”. They are both reliable and easy to use.

1. Ball Valves.
2. Plumbing tape for sealing connections.
3. Fasteners for fixing the structure to the wall.

Set of tools:

1. Grinder with a metal disc (for dismantling an old pipe).
2. Hammer or drill with drills for tiles/concrete.
3. Adjustable wrench.
4. Key for tightening “American women”.

1. Screwdriver.
2. Measuring tools.

The system is installed according to the following scheme:

Illustration	Work stage
	Preparation of communications. To connect the heated towel rail, we prepare outlets from the hot water riser. This can be either an existing pipe or a newly laid one. In the first case, we need to cut off the old heated towel rail, align the ends of the pipes and cut threads on them. In the second case, we lay the pipes the way we need. It is also possible to install communications under the cladding with an outlet into the plane of the wall under a corner fitting.
	Installation of taps. It is advisable to install ball valves on the terminals for connecting the heated towel rail. Their installation allows you to disconnect this part of the circuit from the network for replacement or repair. It is also advisable to integrate a “bypass” into the system - a jumper between the input and output of the heated towel rail. The bypass can be a section of pipe from which the pipes for connecting the device are diverted.
	Installing the mount on the coil. We install fastenings on the heated towel rail itself for fixing it on the wall. As a rule, such fasteners are simply put on the pipe and tightened with a screwdriver in the right places.
	Installation of "American women". Using plumbing winding and sealant paste, we install “American” fittings at the outlets of the tubular part of the coil. We tighten the union nuts tightly, but not too much - so as not to deform the product or break the thread.
	The tightening of the “American women”. We tighten the internal parts of the American women with a special wrench. This will allow the connection to be as tight as possible.
	Mark on the wall. We attach the heated towel rail to the terminals, tighten the threads and mark where the mounting plates will be located. Through the grooves for fixing, we use a marker to make marks on the wall for drilling.
	We drill holes for fasteners. First, we go through the tiles with a special drill, so we go deeper into the wall using a concrete drill. We hammer plastic dowels into the holes. Usually some kind of fastener is included with the coil, but it is better to throw it away and use 6x40 mm dowels for express installation.
	Fixing the heated towel rail. We return the product to its place and fix it on the wall. To do this, we fix the support plates with locking screws, inserting them into the dowels and tightening them with a screwdriver. After this, we rotate the adjusting screws on the fasteners, selecting their length so that the device becomes strictly parallel to the wall.
	Tightening fasteners. Nuts in the place where the heated towel rail is attached to the terminals with hot water tighten using an adjustable wrench. Here, too, it is important not to overtighten the connection.
	System check. We open the taps at the inlet and outlet and check how the system works. There are only two criteria for the success of our work: Connections do not leak. The surface of the coil heats up.

Of course, this is not the only way. It is quite popular to mount the heated towel rail on corner fittings with a bottom connection, or install it through an open bypass. In any case, you need to choose an installation scheme based on the conditions and model of the device.

Option 2. Installing an electrical appliance

One of the advantages of electric models is that easy installation. For installation we will need:

1. Hammer or drill with appropriate drill bit.
2. Level.
3. Crosshead screwdriver.
4. Connection Tools electrical wires(when installed without a socket).

Electrical Device Installation Instructions:

Illustration	Work stage
	Preparing the device. We unpack the heated towel rail by removing it from the box and unrolling the connection cord. Skip if necessary electrical cable through the holes in the mounting strips.
	Installation of fasteners. We install mounting panels or legs on the back of the device. We fix them with fastening screws, tightening the parts with a Phillips screwdriver.
	Marking for drilling. We apply the product to the wall, level it and apply markings for drilling mounting holes. We stick according to the markings masking tape which will prevent damage to the finish when drilling.
	Preparing mounting holes. Using the markings, we drill holes, the diameter and depth of which correspond to the fasteners used. We insert plastic dowels into the holes. We drive them flush with the wall.
	Fixing the heated towel rail on the wall. We apply the device to the wall, level it and fix it by screwing the locking screws into the dowels.
	Laying hidden wiring. When connecting to an outlet, simply pull the cord where you need it. For a hidden connection, we connect the wires from the heated towel rail with the wires coming out of the wall. We carefully isolate the contact point and hide the wiring either under the casing or in the decorative strip of the device.
	Fastening decorative overlays. On mounting strips put on decorative overlays and fix them with self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws.

After installation, apply voltage and check the degree of heating drying elements. We also monitor the operation of the thermostat, selecting the optimal operating mode.

As with the water model, there may be variations here too. But the field for experimentation is limited, essentially, by two points:

1. Form of fastening (legs or plates).
2. Type of connection (hidden or through a socket).

But in general, the “drilled to the wall - connected to the power wires” scheme remains unchanged.

Conclusion

When choosing the type of fastening for a heated towel rail, you need to take into account its design, installation location, and method of connection to communications. There are no particular difficulties expected here, but beginners will find the above instructions and the visual video in this article very useful. In addition, in the comments you can get an answer to your question.

The bathroom is a room where elevated temperatures are required. Firstly, it feels more comfortable, and secondly, warm air will quickly remove excess moisture after taking a shower or bath. Heating in the bathroom is done infrequently - it is not accepted. A more common method is to install a heated towel rail, which we’ll talk about next. For everything to work without problems, you need to choose the right connection diagram, and even implement it correctly. And you will have to figure everything out on your own. After all, even if you don’t do everything yourself, you’ll have to keep an eye on the plumbers. This is the only way to be sure that you will be left with a properly functioning dryer.

In order for everything not only to look good, but also to work without problems, you need to lay out the eyeliner correctly

What designs are there?

There are heated towel rails different forms. When choosing them, people are often guided solely by aesthetics, which is not entirely justified. These devices work normally with good water circulation, but not all models provide such circulation. With some you have to spend a long time trying to find correct scheme connections, otherwise they simply refuse to work.

So, all heated towel rails can be divided into four groups:

It often happens that after installing a heated towel rail it simply does not work. If the error is serious, the riser to which it is connected also stops working. Therefore, it is necessary to know and follow the connection rules.

Where to connect and where to hang

You can connect a water heated towel rail to both the hot water riser and the heating system. If both of these options are available, DHW is usually chosen. There are three reasons for this: there is less hassle with permission to connect, you can connect at any time of the year (agree with the management company to turn off the riser and that’s it) and, most importantly, such a heated towel rail heats up all year round.

If there is no hot water supply in the house, you will have to connect to the heating riser. This requires permission from the Criminal Code and a project. Buy a heated towel rail (preferably a simple design), go to the housing office with its passport (copy), write an application. If permission is given, order the project (you will also need a copy of the passport with connecting dimensions). Then, according to the project, you do it yourself or hire performers (plumbers from the housing office, as an option). Call representatives of the Housing Office for acceptance.

To ensure that the “towel” always warms up without problems, all connections are straight, without arcs or pockets

When determining where to install the heated towel rail, questions may still arise about what height it should be hung. If you have a choice, it is most convenient to place it so that it is at head level and below. This is if you install a U-shaped or snake. If we are talking about “ladders” of great height, the top bar is placed at the level of the heat of the raised hand (approximately 190-200 cm).

When choosing a location for installing a heated towel rail, you must also take into account the distance from the riser. In principle, the closer to the riser, the better - the greater the chance that it will work. But, it can be attributed to a meter or so only if the following conditions are met:

• low hydraulic resistance of the heated towel rail ( simple form and section 1″ or 3/4″),
• sufficient pressure (2 atm or more)
• drain pipes of normal diameter (one step smaller than the riser).

At the same time, be sure to follow other connection rules. Then there will be chances that such a “remote” device will work normally.

How to make bends and how to change the riser

If the riser is metal and you are not going to change it, then installing a heated towel rail is possible with steel or polypropylene pipes. If you change the riser ( the best option) and install polypropylene, there is no choice - PPR pipes they also go for taps. Use polypropylene for hot water, preferably reinforced with fiberglass.

Why is metal-plastic not suitable? Because its fittings have a very narrow clearance. This has a very bad effect on circulation. As a result, even 100% efficient circuits do not provide normal heating.

Installation of a heated towel rail with polypropylene pipes

A little about why to change the riser. It makes sense to do this in old houses when renovating a bathroom or bathroom (depending on where your riser is located). Firstly, the pipes are usually already old and worn out. Even welding an outlet to them can be problematic, the metal is so worn out. Secondly, modern renovation involves hidden laying of communications and you will also want to close the riser. Hide old pipe, and after a few years to destroy everything again... not a good decision.

A little about how to change. You need to come to an agreement with the neighbors below and above, as well as with the housing office (DEZ, UK). With your neighbors that you will cut off their riser and install a new one on the thread. Why do they have it? Because leaving an old pipe in the ceiling is dangerous: it will collapse and leak. It will flood you or your neighbors below. Therefore, it is better to pass through the ceilings with a new pipe.

With this connection, the dryer is part of the riser and there cannot be any taps

Having agreed or not with your neighbors (their riser may already be closed), you go to the housing office and agree on the date of replacement and the time for which the riser will be turned off. The work can be done by “local” mechanics, you yourself (if you have welding qualifications) or people you hire. After the connection, the water is turned on, you check the functionality of the heated towel rail and the system as a whole. If it doesn’t start to cool within 30 minutes, it means it’s set correctly. This completes the replacement or installation of the heated towel rail.

With or without bypass

Let's start with what a bypass is. This is a jumper between the input and output of the device, which ensures water circulation when the device fails or is turned off.

The jumper between the input and output of the heated towel rail is the bypass

If the circuit has a bypass, shut-off ball valves can be installed at the inlet and outlet of the device. This is convenient - you can turn it off if necessary (during repair or replacement) and not block the entire riser.

If there is no such jumper, no taps can be installed. In this case, the heated towel rail is part of the riser; by closing the taps, you completely shut off the riser.

When connected without bypass, no taps

The bypass can be direct (as in the first photo in the chapter) or offset (in the photo below). An offset jumper is installed at the top supply of coolant for better work(circulation improves). With bottom feed, the offset only gets in the way. If you don't know where the water is coming from, it's better to do a direct bypass.

Offset bypass with upper coolant supply improves circulation

Bypasses (straight or offset) are also made narrower. Tapering, as well as displacement, improves circulation, but only in the case of top feed. The narrowing is made with a pipe that is one step smaller than the main one (if the riser is inch, the bottleneck is made 3/4″). You can't do less. The insert size is at least 10 cm.

Once again: an offset and/or narrowed bypass only works with top water supply. At the bottom, it interferes with circulation. If you are not sure, make the bypass straight and untapered.

It is strictly forbidden to install taps on the bypass. Each tap is a loss of pressure, which means it worsens the circulation of the entire riser, the water flows no longer so hot. For all neighbors above or below (depending on the direction of supply), the pressure deteriorates noticeably. Sometimes it also falls on the owner of the bypass with the tap. In addition, this is an absolutely unnecessary detail that only causes harm, and no noticeable improvement in circulation in the heated towel rail is observed. Well, and besides, this is a violation of SNiP 01/31/2003 (clause 10.6) - interference with public communications, for which a (considerable) fine may be issued.

How to place taps (connection methods)

For lateral and diagonal connections, the outlets should be located at the same level as the heated towel rail inlets or slightly higher/lower. What definitely won’t work is installing a heated towel rail if the outlets are located at a distance less than the distance between the inputs. The photo below is an example of a non-working diagonal connection with closely spaced taps. The option for correcting it (top feed) is indicated in black.

With a side connection, the heated towel rail will only work if the outlets are located slightly above and slightly below its inputs or at least on the same level

When connecting, the taps must be positioned strictly horizontally or slightly at an angle. Slightly at an angle - this is from 2 cm per meter (2%) or maybe a little more. The direction of the slope depends on the connection diagram and which end this outlet will be connected to. To make it a little clearer, let's look at a few standard schemes connection of heated towel rails.

Universal bottom connection for heated towel rail "ladder"

This circuit works regardless of the direction of hot water supply. Connection type - bottom, both outlets should be located lower than the bottom edge of the dryer. With top feed, an option is acceptable when the edge is located between the bends, but the work may not be so efficient (it may heat up worse).

Universal connection for heated towel rail (bottom)

In this scheme, you can install shut-off valves. For her normal operation required:

• Mayevsky valves (air vents) installed on the upper outlets to release air accumulated in the upper part. They will need to be periodically opened and vented (as the heat begins to worsen). There is an option - install automatic air vents. They are also compact. This will make it easier to use.
• The bypass is straight and narrowed. The narrowing size is a pipe of one step smaller in diameter.
• Bends are made with a pipe of a step smaller in diameter than the main riser.

If this option suits your height, do it. The scheme works in any conditions, with ladder-type heated towel rails of any type.

Possible bottom connection for top supply

When pouring hot water from above, you can make the upper outlet higher than the bottom edge of the dryer. With the bypass displaced and narrowed, it should heat up normally. This method is not the best, but it works.

Working option for top spill of hot water

The presence of air vents and bleeding of air after the system is stopped are mandatory.

Universal side connection

You can connect the pipes from the side to the heated towel rail in any of the standard shapes - U-shaped, snake and ladder. The connection itself does not depend on the form. The standard version comes with a straight, unnarrowed bypass. Bends are either strictly horizontal or with a slight slope. There is a slope in the figure: the end of the upper branch is tilted slightly downwards (2 cm by 1 meter), the lower one is tilted slightly upwards. The diameter of the outlets is not less than the diameter of the heated towel rail.

Lateral universal connection for heated towel rail

This connection diagram is good in that there is no need to install air vents on the “ladder” (they install plugs), since the air simply goes into the riser.

With the top supply on the bypass, you can narrow it and/or move the jumper towards the heated towel rail. This will improve circulation and the dryer will heat up better. But once again: such a scheme will only work with top water supply.

When supplying water from above, the bypass can be shifted and made into a pipe with a smaller diameter step

With this scheme, it is also possible to make bends at a slight angle or strictly horizontally.

Possible side connection option (not the best)

A lateral connection scheme with the top outlet located below the top edge of the heated towel rail is acceptable. But with such a connection, Mayevsky taps are needed, through which you will have to bleed the air after turning off the hot water supply for repairs/maintenance. It may also be necessary to periodically remove air during the process.

Not the best, but quite a workable option

Diagonal connection

There is no particular point in the diagonal connection of most heated towel rails: their efficiency is no different from the side one (in any case, there is no significant improvement), but the pipe consumption is greater, longer grooves are required, and this is labor-intensive. Although the scheme is workable.

The diagonal works fine if the feed water is coming above. Then the upper outlet is connected to the far edge of the “ladder”, and the lower one to the near one.

Diagonal connection with top feed

In this case, you can also make a narrowed and offset bypass, but even without this everything should work with a bang. With bottom supply, the bypass is not narrowed, exactly along the riser, connection

Heated towel rails with complex shapes: how to connect

In the case of connecting heated towel rails of complex shape, in addition to the usual means, it is also necessary to take into account the structural features of each specific model. They must be considered from the point of view of hydrodynamics - where water flows best, water is supplied there. For example, the popular model “Elegy” from Sunerge. This is not a ladder or a zig-zag.

Selected here diagonal connection, because anything else simply won’t work

Installation of the Sunerzhi Elegy heated towel rail was chosen from the side, since with any other installation the circulation will be disrupted. There are no options here at all.

Another model - with a bottom connection and complex design has three installation options. Provided water is supplied from above, the second one will work best, the first one will work a little worse, and the third one will be the most ineffective.

Options bottom connection with top spill

When feeding from below, options 1 and 3 remain, but only without narrowing the bypasses - it will interfere, not help. We exclude the second option completely.

What not to do

All the above schemes work stably. As you noticed, all bends go straight, without bends in the form of an arc or rings. This is not accidental - air accumulates in all irregularities, which interferes with, and sometimes completely blocks, circulation.

This scheme doesn't work

The installation of the heated towel rail in the photo is incorrect. At least two mistakes were made:

1. bends have already been made center distance heated towel rail;
2. They are made with a metal-plastic pipe with loops.

This connection simply cannot work. Metal-plastic pipes- excellent material, but not for connecting heated towel rails. Their fittings have a very narrow lumen, which has a bad effect on circulation. Plus, air accumulates in the loops, and the flow along the upper loop, even when supplied from above, will not flow - too much hydraulic resistance to the water must be overcome.

Unstable circuits

The following two schemes may work, but not always. At the bottom of the heated towel rail, the water stagnates and, given any difference in height, cannot rise. No one can say specifically when it will work and when it won’t. Depends on the pressure in the riser, the diameter of the pipes and the design of the dryer itself.

Unstable connection schemes

With such a connection, even a working connection may suddenly (usually after stopping) stop working. Everything is simple: the pressure has changed, the pipes are clogged, the water from below is not “pressed”, the heated towel rail does not heat.

Another option for an unstable circuit is with a loop on top. Again, it will work under certain conditions. But sooner or later the highest point will become airy and block the circulation. The problem can be helped by installing an automatic air vent at the highest point, but if the pressure drops, it will not help.

With loop on top

Not true at all

The photo below shows examples of what not to do. Schemes without a tap on the bypass are inoperative. What this threatens is known. In addition, after several years of use, they will stop functioning altogether. Most likely this will happen after the next shutdown - the system will become clogged with dirt. This is because the entire flow of hot water is directed through the heated towel rail. After repairs the water carries great amount dirt, which safely settles in bends (in the lowest areas first). Within a few years everything becomes completely clogged. Fortunately, everything needs to be redone and connected correctly, but only flushing can help the fire.

Very bad idea

It is necessary to wash both the heated towel rail and the connections to it. To do this, remove the dryer and wash it in the bathroom, and wash the outlets one by one by connecting a hose to the free outlets, the other end of which is taken to the sewer. By manipulating the taps, pass a flow of hot water through one outlet, then through the other. After washing everything is put back in place. It may be possible to start the system after this.

Installation process

The connection of the heated towel rail to the finished outlets is standard for plumbing - suitable fittings, flax and packaging paste or fum tape. For mounting to the wall, there are brackets or special holder clamps into which the pipe is pressed. The process is shown in detail in the video.

The bathroom is a room where special comfort is required, because there a person appears in his most vulnerable state. To support optimal temperature in the bathroom, a heated towel rail is installed there. A heated towel rail is a curved pipe that is built into the general heating system of the house, necessary to heat and reduce humidity in the bathroom. In this article we will tell you how to attach a heated towel rail with your own hands.

What is a heated towel rail?

A heated towel rail or coil is a device that acts as an additional radiator in a bathroom. It performs the function of heating and regulating humidity in the bathroom. Typically, the heated towel rail is mounted on the wall using brackets or other suitable fasteners.

Distinguish the following types devices:

Important! Whatever the bathroom radiator, it is important to provide a reliable, durable mount for the heated towel rail. Since the device is usually mounted on walls, the fixtures must support its weight. The installation height is usually 100-130 cm from the floor.

Bracket device

Previously, when hardware stores did not offer such a variety, installation of radiators in the bathroom was carried out using ordinary metal hooks fixed to the wall.

However, in practice, this installation method turned out to be quite unreliable - the battery wanders around and is not fixed securely. Now special brackets are used for these purposes. They have the following device:

Remember that to hang a heated towel rail, depending on the size, weight and shape, you may need from 2 to 6 brackets. The larger and heavier the device, the more fixation points are needed to distribute it more evenly across the supports.

Types of fastenings

The choice of mounts for heated towel rails is quite varied in design and price. Usually all the necessary fasteners are supplied directly with the selected bath radiator, so you don’t have to think about how to fix it on the wall.

The manufacturer carefully calculates how much it weighs specific model coil, and then selects brackets for it with a suitable bearing capacity and design. There are the following most popular types fastenings:

Please note that it is usually quite easy to select universal fasteners for heated towel rails if you do not want to deal with a standard fastening. It is better that the design of the brackets is detachable, since it is much easier to mount the radiator using them. When purchasing fasteners, it is important to consider the diameter of the pipe, the desired distance from the wall to the device, as well as the resistance of the material to corrosion, since the bathroom is a room with high humidity.

How is the fastening done?

The process of hanging a battery in the bathroom is quite simple, so you can even do this work yourself. It is important to remember that replacing a water heated towel rail is carried out only outside the heating season, otherwise you will have to turn off the entire heating riser, which causes inconvenience for other residents.

The installation technology consists of the following stages:

• Shut off the riser, if necessary.
• Fixing brackets on the wall.
• Installation of heated towel rails on brackets.
• Connection of the heating riser to the coil entry point.
• Sealing of connections.
• Checking the tightness of joints and seams.

Video instruction

How to organize the connection of a heated towel rail without the help of a specialist? Step-by-step instruction will make it possible to simplify as much as possible such a process as installing a heated towel rail in the bathroom, and successfully cope with this task in just 2 hours.

A properly functioning heated towel rail in the bathroom is a functional device that creates a favorable microclimate that prevents the appearance of fungus, dampness or mold. In general, installing a heated towel rail is a simple process, so you can easily do it in just a couple of hours with your own hands, without involving a plumber.

Modern models come in L-, P-, F-, M-shaped, as well as in the form of a ladder, on which it is convenient to dry towels and linen.

There are 3 types of devices on the market:

1. electrical;
2. water;
3. combined.

The most effective is a water dryer, the installation of which is provided in one of two methods: to the hot water supply system or to heating pipes. Since it is the most common option, we will consider in detail the procedure for installing it.

How to choose a water heated towel rail: video

Necessary materials and equipment

• Dryer;
• Bulgarian;
• hammer drill;
• building level;
• pencil;
• adjustable wrench;
• mounting brackets;
• pipes and fittings;
• welding machine;
• Ball Valves;
• FUM tape.

Installing a heated towel rail: possible connection options

The heated towel rail connection diagram provides one of two possible options pipe inserts:

1. to DHW;
2. to the heating system.

The first option is preferable, allowing you to use the dryer almost all year round, and not just in heating season. When connected to heating system The dryer will only work during the cold season. In addition, installing a heated towel rail in a heating system is more complicated, since it is necessary to completely turn off the heat in the house and drain the water from the pipes, and this is not recommended in severe frosts, so as not to freeze the entire riser.

Possible connection methods:

• at the top - on one side of the equipment, heated water is supplied through the inlet from above, and discharged from the other side from below;
• at the bottom - the device has an inlet at one end for supplying water from below, and at the reverse side branch is located;
• bottom center - input/output directed to the bottom crossbar;
• diagonal - water enters from one side from above, and is discharged diagonally at the bottom;
• single point - connection is made from one point below.

Important! The heated towel rail will not be able to function if the hot water input is from above and the outlet is on the same side, but from below. In this case, there will be no water flow circulation and the equipment will not heat up!

Installing a heated towel rail with a side connection looks most aesthetically pleasing, although installation will be somewhat more complicated and the connections will need to be carefully insulated. This option is preferable if the pipes in the bathroom are recessed as much as possible into the wall surface, with the exception of external outlets. Often, a heated towel rail that has been preserved from Soviet times is dismantled; to replace it, a model of the same diameter is selected, which will be connected below.

Procedure for connecting to DHW

Stage I. The heated towel rail is being dismantled.

The water is drained from the equipment, after which it is carefully removed from the old brackets. It is quite easy to remove the device with your own hands: unscrew it from the hot water supply pipe or carefully cut it with a grinder (if the product is welded).

When cutting, it is important to leave a length of pipe that will be sufficient for cutting future threads. After this, markings of the installation site are drawn.

Attention! Dismantling in apartment buildings carried out only after turning off the water supply! The work is coordinated with the housing office.

Stage II. Installation of ball valves, bypass.

Essentially, a bypass is a piece of pipe with special connecting elements. Do-it-yourself ball valves are installed at the ends of the dryer - with their help you can shut off the flow of water in case of an accident or repair work. Of course, installing a heated towel rail is possible without a jumper, but it is still recommended to use a bypass so that you can close it in case of repairs. ball valve only in one apartment, and not in the entire building.

Both ferrous metal and copper, metal-plastic or plastic can be used as pipes. At the same time, when connecting a water heated towel rail to the hot water supply pipes, it is important to maintain the distance from the pipe to the adjacent wall - for a water supply pipe with a diameter of 40–50 mm, there should be 50-55 mm to the wall, and if the diameter is up to 23 mm, then the distance must be maintained 35 mm.

Stage III. Fastening brackets and dryer.

The supports are mounted into the wall - later the dryer will be hung on them. If you need to make holes in the wall where the tiles lie, use a drill with a special drill, then insert plastic dowels into the holes and screw in the screws.

Attention! It is forbidden to weld the heated towel rail to the supports! This may cause thermal deformations.

After this, all that remains is to connect the equipment to the riser:

• using fittings, the product is connected to valves located on the jumper;
• fastenings are tightened;
• threaded connections are sealed.

Once the hanging is completed, the tightness of the connections is checked. The taps open very smoothly to avoid water hammer. Under no circumstances should there be moisture, drops, etc. on the surface.

Connecting an electric heated towel rail

Electric dryer is a household heating device, which does not require insertion into the water supply system. Installation of equipment is much simpler, but it is imperative to ensure complete isolation of electricity, since in the bathroom any current leakage can pose a threat to life. It is necessary to ground and connect an RCD to protect against voltage surges.

In general, it is recommended that the outlet be located outside the bathroom, but a device without a thermostat can be connected to an outlet located in the bathroom. If necessary, it can be removed from the socket to reduce energy consumption. The socket must have a moisture-proof housing and a cover for insulation, and the wires must be hidden in a groove. It is prohibited to install the socket on a wall facing the street - this may cause short circuits due to condensation.

A heated towel rail is a must-have attribute of any bathroom. Plumbing fixture provides comfortable temperature indoors, prevents the appearance of dampness and is used for its intended purpose - drying clothes. In fact, the coil is a local heating system for the bathroom. Cope with self-replacement and installation of a new dryer is possible home handyman with the skills to perform plumbing work. The contractor is required to competently develop an installation diagram, take into account installation requirements and observe the nuances technological process. An important factor in the uninterrupted and long-lasting operation of the heater is right choice heated towel rail.

Nuances of choosing a heated towel rail: operating principle, material and shape

The choice of bath dryer is based on an assessment of four main equipment parameters:

• heating type;
• material of manufacture;
• connection option;
• shape and design.

Depending on the principle of operation, water, electric and combined models are distinguished. Each coil has both positive and negative sides.

Water heated towel rail. Flow drying is the most popular. The coil is inserted into a heating or hot water supply system.

Distinctive features:

• energy savings;
• variety of model range;
• limited installation space - it is necessary to stretch the pipeline.

Important! DHW pressure multi-storey building is 7-10 atmospheres. However, most heated towel rails are designed for small operating pressure and have walls up to 1.25 mm thick. If the indicators do not correspond, the drying service life is up to 2 years

Electric coil. A heating liquid or dry heating element is placed inside the structure. The use of an electric heated towel rail makes sense in the following situations:

• urgent installation is required without reconstruction of the heating/water supply system;
• placement of additional drying;
• installing a coil outside the bathroom - a mobile electric unit is suitable.

To warm up the bathroom to 22-24°C, you should choose a model at the rate of 140 W/sq.m. If a “backup” dryer is installed for the spring-summer season, then its optimal power is 100 W/sq.m.

Combined instruments combine the advantages of water and electrical modifications. The disadvantage is scarcity and high cost.

Before installing a heated towel rail in the bathroom from heating or hot water supply, it is important to select optimal material manufacturing.

It can be stainless steel, copper/brass or black steel. Features of different coils:

1. Stainless steel: resistance to moisture, demanding water quality, narrowing of the flow area over time. The best option- chrome-plated steel, wall thickness - not less than 2 mm.
2. Copper and brass: high heat transfer, fragility - the coil is deformed with little force. With careful use it will last up to 20-25 years.
3. Black steel: strength, corrosion resistance. Recommended for connection to DHW.

The heater configuration is selected based on personal preference and capacity. U- and M-shaped coils are often used to replace Soviet heated towel rails. Radiators of the herringbone and ladder type are compact, but quite spacious.

According to the installation method, plumbing accessories are:

• bottom or top connection;
• angular coolant supply;
• left or right connection.

Most practical - side connection. Such models can be adapted to various places installation An additional plus is the aesthetics of the design.

General requirements for installing a plumbing fixture

Connection standards are regulated in SNiP 2-04-01-85. Basic Rules:

1. Fittings should not narrow the flow area of ​​the pipeline. The diameter of the riser must be equal to the diameter of the coil channels.
2. The installation of a heated towel rail in the bathroom requires a bypass insertion. The jumper maintains the coolant pressure throughout the riser, and the separation of flows helps maintain the water temperature at the following water intake points. The bypass makes it possible to perform current repairs dryers, leaving the system operational.
3. Installation of shut-off valves on the bypass and common riser is prohibited. Such actions impair circulation and help lower the temperature of the coolant.
4. The optimal drying installation height is 120 cm.
5. Boundary distances from the wall surface to the radiator: 4 cm - with a coil diameter of up to 2.5 cm, 6-7 cm - with a pipe cross-section of more than 2.5 cm.
6. The installation of taps on a heated towel rail in the bathroom is carried out at the inlet/outlet from the coil to the bypass.

Connection diagrams for a heated towel rail in the bathroom

The performance of the coil directly depends on a well-chosen insertion scheme. The type of connection is selected taking into account the characteristics of the model and the location of the centralized riser.

Scheme No. 1. Universal side/diagonal connection.

Advantages of the scheme:

• any coolant supply vector;
• fits different speed water circulation;
• there is no need to bleed air;
• an arbitrarily large distance from the central pipe.

System operation requirements:

1. The connection points for the heated towel rail should be located between the lower and upper outlet of the riser.
2. The minimum angle of inclination of the supplied pipeline is from 3 mm per 1 m. For pipe cross-sections of 32 mm and a short distance from the riser, it is permissible horizontal installation pipes
3. The presence of bends is unacceptable, otherwise the system will become airy.
4. For maximum circulation, it is better to choose a coil with a diameter of ¾ inch (steel models), 25 mm (reinforced PPR), standard size ball valve- from 3.4/ inches.

Scheme No. 2. Bottom inset.

Features of the scheme:

• coolant supply - any direction;
• possibility of hidden installation - placing the line under the shower cabin/bathtub;
• in case of interruptions in the coolant supply, air release will be required through Mayevsky taps;
• the efficiency of the bottom connection is less than that of the “diagonal” or “side” system.

Implementation of the scheme is possible subject to the following conditions:

1. Placement of the lower supply below the installation level of the coil.
2. No dips or rises on a straight route.
3. When hiding pipes in the wall, they must be insulated.

Alternative schemes

With traditional assembly No. 1, a side insert with non-standard pipe routing is acceptable.

The figure shows alternative options:

1. Vertical segments are added at the input and output. The basic conditions for placing a basement remain unchanged.
2. The drying top is higher top feed water. The scheme requires the use of an air vent on the device - due to the formed stage, in the absence of water, air accumulates in the system.

The lower connection according to scheme No. 2 allows the following modifications.

In the first case, all outlets are located under the dryer, and in the second, the upper inlet is located above the bottom of the heated towel rail. This combination limits the direction of the coolant - from top to bottom. In the reverse way, the system functions unstable.

Ineffective connection options

Typical insertion errors cause work failures heating element. Incorrect assembly diagrams:

A combination of two non-working connections at once is observed when builders try to hide the lower line in the floor, and the upper one in the ceiling space.

How to install a new heated towel rail on old pipes

Let's look at step by step how to connect a heated towel rail in the bathroom to replace old worn-out equipment. The technology is quite simple and includes several mandatory steps.

Selection of work equipment

The list of tools depends on the type of material water pipeline. Installation through plastic fittings will require brackets, ball valves, pipes, construction knife, laser or water level, as well as a soldering iron for working with polymer products. Additional equipment: hammer, screwdrivers, adjustable wrenches, tow or alternative sealant.

As a rule, the coil is supplied as standard:

• transition corners;
• silicone and fluoroplastic gaskets;
• telescopic brackets;
• locking units.

It is convenient if the set includes: a Mayevsky tap, a locking screw and a decorative cap.

Dismantling an outdated coil

Before installing a water heated towel rail in a bathroom by hand, you will need to carefully remove the old equipment.

Procedure:

1. Contact the housing office with a request to temporarily stop the supply of hot water.
2. After closing the riser, you can begin to directly dismantle the coil.
3. With a threaded connection, it is enough to unscrew the dryer with a wrench and disconnect it from the pipeline. It is better to place a container under the mounting location, since water may remain inside the circuit.
4. Usually the heated towel rail is welded or threaded connection over the years they have become so “stuck” that cutting is indispensable. For dismantling, you can use a grinder. The main thing is not to overdo it and not to remove the necessary centimeters of pipe for cutting threads for fittings.
5. Remove the old device from the holders.

Important! The cutout in the centralized supply pipe must be greater than the distance between the nozzles of the installed coil on total length elements necessary for fastening the bypass.

Attaching the bypass and taps

Installing a bypass is not a mandatory, but highly desirable condition for replacing a heated towel rail. A simple replacement of o-rings and gaskets at the coil connection points requires shutting off the water in the system. This means you will have to waste time and submit an application to the Housing Office. By including a jumper in the circuit, you can, at your discretion, turn off the coil circuit and carry out scheduled repair work.

The role of the bypass is performed by an ordinary pipe made of polypropylene, copper or steel. For its installation you will need three ball valves. One element of shut-off valves is installed directly on the jumper, and two taps are installed on the coolant return and supply fittings.

The ball valve on the jumper will allow you to regulate the intensity of water supply to the heated towel rail circuit. However, this decision is quite controversial. Many plumbers are against inserting shut-off valves into the bypass.

Installation procedure:

1. Cut threads on the pipeline bends.
2. Place tees on the pipes.
3. Install shut-off valves and bypass.

Installation and connection of a new dryer

When choosing a way to fasten a heated towel rail, you should give preference to brackets rather than rigid mounting through the wall. This solution protects the wall and pipe from loads caused by temperature deformations.

Important! The coil must be installed strictly horizontally. If the heated towel rail is distorted, it may rip off under pressure.

Work progress:

1. Mark the dryer mounting locations on the wall.
2. Drill holes and install dowels.
3. Fix the brackets on the coil and “try it on” to the wall.
4. If the horizontal position and recommended distances of the radiator from the wall are observed, then you can secure the device with screws.
5. Connect the plumbing bends to each other using fittings using a sealing winding.
6. Check the tightness of the connecting elements and gradually open the taps. Checking the connection of the heated towel rail should be carried out at low coolant pressure.

If there are no leaks, you can switch the coil to standard operating mode - fully open the ball valves.

Electrical unit placement

Installation electric model drying is somewhat simpler than its water counterpart. The main thing is to follow safety precautions during installation and operation of the electrical appliance.

To understand how to properly make a heated towel rail in the bathroom, we list the basic requirements for installing it:

1. The distance from the electric dryer to the “wet” plumbing fixtures (bath/washbasin/shower) is from 60 cm. Minimum distance to the floor - 20 cm.
2. For connection, a moisture-proof socket with a special “visor” against moisture is used.
3. Mandatory conditions for installation of electrical wiring: three-core cable, grounding, hidden wiring and the use of RCDs.

The type of connection depends on the modification of the electric heater. Oil units are mounted strictly horizontally and require rigid fixation. Cable coils can be rotated in any direction.

If we talk about the efficiency of devices, then oil dryers are more heat-intensive - they take a long time to warm up and cool down just as long after being turned off. Cable, on the contrary, quickly warms up rooms and quickly cools down.

DIY installation of a heated towel rail in the bathroom: video

Visual video instructions for installing a heated towel rail with a side connection:

Master class on installing a “ladder” coil with bottom coolant supply: