How to properly cover the roof of a house with your own hands? Carrying out self-covering of the roof of a house Roof covering.

The roof is one of the main structural elements Houses. Besides his functional purpose, it serves as an excellent means for realizing a design concept. The variety of shapes and the ability to use classic and modern roofing materials will make any home original and attractive.

The main thing that needs to be done immediately before installation is to design the roof structure, it is desirable that the roof matches overall project building.

Compliance with the requirements regarding how to properly re-roof will guarantee its durability and aesthetic appeal.

Roofing - quite difficult process. You can do it yourself if you have construction skills. Having decided, you need to know that this process is carried out in several stages:

installation of sheathing;
waterproofing and vapor barrier device;
roof insulation;
laying roofing material.

To perform roofing work you will need the following tools:

hammer;
electric drill or screwdriver;
roulette;
marker or pencil;
hacksaw;
scissors, electric saw or hacksaw for cutting metal tiles or corrugated sheets;
special knife for cutting soft roofing materials.

Roofing materials are divided into: mineral (stone materials, these include tiles, slate tiles, slate);
organic (polymer, bitumen);
metal.

First of all, you need from the many offers on the modern building materials market. It is necessary to take them into account specifications, functionality, texture, price and other indicators. Today, the greatest demand is for metal tiles, corrugated sheets, flexible tiles(bitumen) and ceramic tiles.

Perhaps the most popular among consumers is metal tiles. This material is relatively lightweight, easy to install, affordable, and its shape resembles natural tiles. Wide range of protective colors polymer coating will allow you to choose an option that will harmoniously combine with the style and decor of the building. As an alternative, corrugated sheeting can be used. It is cheaper than metal tiles, less decorative, and is available in the form of ordinary galvanized, painted or coated sheets. These types of coatings are perfect for roofs with a simple shape. If you need to cover a roof with a complex configuration, then a significant amount of material will end up in waste.

Flexible tiles are the most suitable choice in order to cover curved slopes or roofs of complex configurations with a slope slope from 12 to 90 degrees. It is made of bitumen applied to fiberglass and covered with stone chips. Thanks to various forms(wavy, triangular, rectangular, hexagonal) and rich color scheme, bituminous shingles will ensure long-term operation of the roof in any climatic conditions and an excellent decorative appearance. Despite the rather high price, the use of soft tiles is beneficial due to the virtually waste-free installation technology. In addition, it has excellent sound-absorbing properties and does not create noise when it rains. Its only drawback is that over time this material can fade in the sun.

Natural tiles will be the most expensive. This one is environmentally friendly pure material It is made from clay by firing and can be coated with transparent or colored glaze to enhance the decorative effect. Of course, such a roof will be durable, beautiful, warm and noise-absorbing. Please note that ceramic tiles are heavy and require some experience when installing.

How to make a sheathing correctly

The rafter-beam system and sheathing make up the frame of the future roof. It is quite difficult to do the rafter structure correctly yourself, so it will be better if this work is carried out by specialists, but you can install the sheathing yourself. Depending on the chosen roofing material, the quality of the house may vary. For flexible tiles, a prerequisite is a continuous sheathing made of moisture-resistant plywood or calibrated boards. For metal tiles, corrugated sheets and natural tiles they arrange a sparse sheathing of boards and beams, the pitch of which depends on the characteristics of the material and can range from 35 to 50 cm. The sheathing boards are nailed to the rafters across the roof slope.

To correctly install the sheathing, you must remember that:

when calculating the length of boards or beams, you should take into account the roof overhangs, designed to protect the walls of the house from rain and snow;
boards and beams must be good quality and have a humidity of no more than 22%;
it is better to use calibrated material (boards 10 x 2.5 - 3 cm, bars 5 x 5 cm), since the surface of the roof slopes should be as smooth as possible, without protrusions and deflections;
the joints of the boards or sheathing beams should be located above the rafter beams;
for fixing ridge strip two additional boards are attached on both sides of the roof;
the first sheathing board should be thicker than the others by the height of the roofing material;
the distance between the sheathing boards and chimneys must be at least 12 cm;
When covering the roof, nails should be used for lathing, the length of which is 3 times greater than the thickness of the boards for reliable fixation.

To ensure long-term operation of the roof of the house, before starting work, everything wooden elements should be treated with special antiseptic solutions.

Waterproofing, vapor barrier, roof insulation

A properly executed roof covering involves installing waterproofing above the rafters, laying insulation between the rafters, and installing a vapor barrier under the rafter beams. Waterproofing must be done to protect against moisture from the outside. The following can be used as insulating materials:

waterproofing film;
absorbent anti-condensation roll materials;
superdiffusion membranes.

Mounting metal roof at home, waterproofing is done before installing the sheathing (film and anti-condensation materials). Membranes are used only for warm roofs, they are installed on slabs thermal insulation material. Making a roof out of flexible material, after installing a continuous sheathing, an underlay carpet is attached to it.

For the roof of a residential building, it is imperative to use insulation. For these purposes you can use mineral wool, polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, cellulose insulation. To perform thermal insulation correctly, you need to pay attention to the following:

the thickness of the insulation should be 10-20 cm, while there should be a gap of 4-5 cm between the sheathing and the insulation for ventilation;
sufficient frost resistance of the material;
resistance of insulation to moisture;
The thermal insulation material must be environmentally friendly, without an unpleasant odor.

A vapor barrier is installed to protect against moisture penetration from interior spaces buildings, especially in cases where it is planned to install an attic or residential attic space. For its construction, special films are most often used: yutafan or isospan. Fix the vapor barrier from bottom to top, making sure that the overlap of the rows is at least 5 cm. The joints between them are fixed using construction tape.

How to properly lay roofing material

Laying roofing material on the roof of the house is the final stage of work. Depending on the chosen type of coating, an individual technology is used, which requires compliance with a certain order of work and some subtleties. However, in order to properly cover the roof of a house, you need to adhere to some general rules:

laying of covering material is carried out from bottom to top (except hipped roofs) with its alignment along the overhang and cornice;
they begin to lay on triangular slopes roofing material from the center to two sides;
on rectangular slopes the coating is laid from right to left or from left to right;
the roofing material should hang 5-6 cm from the sheathing for normal water to enter the gutters;
To install a coating that does not have special fasteners, use self-tapping screws or nails; for better fixation, it is recommended to use special rubber seals.

IN Lately There is a trend to replace traditional roofing coverings, such as slate, with metal tiles. Re-roofing an old house is a costly undertaking in itself, and the desire of customers to somehow reduce the estimated cost is quite understandable. Often, hired teams of roofers insist on a complete replacement of the roof, including dismantling both sheathing and rafters. And this entails an increase in the estimated cost repair work. But there is experience of replacement roofing on the roof without replacing these elements. In fact, there is a combined way out of the situation. An example of how you can re-roof an old house with minimal losses is described in this short article.

Corrugated sheet over roofing felt - problems

Whether or not to remove roofing felt before is a question that everyone decides for themselves. But if you take into account the experience of using this technology, it is better to familiarize yourself in advance with what a home owner may encounter after renovation:

Ruberoid is not capable of allowing moisture to pass through. Because of this, excess moisture will accumulate under the floor sheets over time, which can negatively affect the metal material;
In summer, under the sun's rays, the metal heats up to high temperatures. From the heat, the bitumen impregnation begins to melt and release harmful substances. Not only are volatile compounds harmful to human health, but the very smell of molten bitumen creates a feeling of discomfort. In addition, molten bitumen is a source of increased fire hazard;
Spots of bitumen that appear on the surface of the corrugated sheet make the entire roof untidy and ugly.

Video: Replacing the roof of a house without dismantling the old one

Advantages of corrugated sheets

The popularity of this material for covering the roof of an old house is understandable. It has a number of advantages, such as:

Completely waterproof;
Does not fade in the sun;
Practical to use - easy to clean from dirt;
Resistant to the mechanical effects of precipitation in the form of hail;
It is light in weight;
Relatively inexpensive;
Easy to install;
Not only used to cover the roof of an old house, but also for fencing land plot and wall cladding.

The professional sheet is divided into three categories:

Carrier.
Wall.
Load-bearing - wall.

Each variety has its own characteristics (both in weight and rigidity) and its purpose - for walls or to cover the roof of an old house:

For small areas where it is necessary to cover the roof of an old house, corrugated wall sheeting is quite suitable. In the case of large areas or with sparse sheathing, only roofing is used - with a profile height of 20 mm (the same approach applies to peaked roofs on the roof, since they have to experience high wind loads).

Let's look at replacing the old covering of a house using the example of a material such as slate.

Preparatory activities

The first thing you need to do before re-roofing an old house is... find out the weather forecast for the coming days. It will be absolutely deplorable if the old covering is removed and long and lingering rains begin. Therefore, it is necessary to prevent rain from entering the living space through the roof.

Important! Even if the hydrometeorological center promises dry weather, it won’t hurt to have a roll in stock polyethylene film to cover the roof in case of rain.

The main material for dismantling a roof covered with corrugated slate:

nail puller;
a pair of wooden blocks;
long ropes;
a pair of hooks (they can be made from slate nails);
To lower sheets from the roof, prepare two long guide beams (new material will also be lifted up along them).

Dismantling

Before covering the roof of an old house with corrugated sheets, the old one is dismantled slate covering roofs. The disassembly process begins from the ridge down. A nail puller is used to remove slate nails. Helps protect sheets from cracks during dismantling wooden block, placed under the nail puller.

Each sheet is lowered by means of a rope with iron hooks along wooden guide bars.

Important! Lowering sheets of slate simply with a rope is contrary to safety precautions.

If there are not enough manpower to reroof an old house, there is no point in trying to dismantle the roof in one day. Replacement of the coating can be carried out in a step-by-step manner. First, one ramp - after that you can begin repairing the other ramp.

Since the roof of an old house is to be covered, the parallelism of the rafters with the sheathing is checked - if there is no plane required, it will have to be dismantled, leaving only the rafter system.

Video: Re-roof an old house without replacing the sheathing.

Rafter system repair

Of course, to speed up the process, you can leave the sheathing. But on building regulations There are significant differences in the requirements for deviations from the plane of slate and corrugated board.

The first step is to check the condition of the rafters along the edges of the roof. After this we construct the plane as a whole.

This can be done using lacing, stretched from four points, using screws screwed into the rafters to the same depth. The cord is stretched diagonally, from corner to corner, and along the rafters.

If the floor plane of an old house is damaged, it needs to be restored. To do this, the rafters are leveled with an edged board, tightly bolted to the beam.

Video. Cover the slate roof of an old house with corrugated sheeting.

Waterproofing

The installation of waterproofing on the roof of an old house made of corrugated board consists of laying waterproofing film on top of the rafters. They begin to cover it with an overlap - from the lower tier gradually rising to the ridge. The film should lie freely without pre-tension. Fastening is easiest done with a construction stapler.

Simultaneously with laying the waterproofing layer, installation of the sheathing begins. This ensures access to roofing installation activities.

Lathing

A new sheathing to cover the roof of an old house with corrugated sheeting begins with fastening a support beam (50x40mm) or a solid piece or cut 1 - 1.5 m long with fastening along the entire length of the rafters.

Transverse elements for the roof of an old house can be made from edged boards 25x150 mm. The direction of installation is from the eaves and ends with the ridge, observing next condition- the first and last boards are attached to the very edge of the rafters. The remaining stripes go in increments of 450 mm.

Important! The fastening step is selected depending on the type of corrugated sheet used.

The work ends with the installation of a wind board.

Laying the corrugated sheet

The final stage is installation of corrugated sheeting. It is desirable that the sheets be equal in size to the length of the slope - the distance from the ridge to the edge of the rafters, with a margin of 5-8 cm.

During the production process, we do not forget about careful handling of sheets. Each sheet is carefully removed from the stack and conveyed along wooden guides to the roof of the old house.

Important! Careful handling of corrugated sheeting will help protect the surface from scratches and dents.

Correct installation of sheets depends on how carefully the preparatory measures are carried out. The crucial moment is the verification and installation of the first sheet of the roof of the old house. It is he who will set the direction for laying the remaining elements of the roof of the old house.

For this purpose, it is necessary to screw limiters onto the roof of the old house to the outer rafters - small slats 20 - 35 cm in length. They must be installed in the same plane with the entire rafter system. Self-tapping screws are screwed into these slats at a distance of 5 - 7 cm from the cornice so that the head protrudes above the wave of corrugated sheeting.

This is necessary so that a metal string is stretched between the screws. Installing the first row along such a guideline will greatly simplify the work and prevent the material from going to the side.

Each sheet of corrugated sheeting for covering an old house is fastened using special screws - self-tapping screws at the rate of 7 - 9 pcs./m².

Important! The tightening torque of the screw must be pre-adjusted so that the press washer does not deform the iron of the roof of the old house.

It is better to install the wind corners and ridge immediately after installing the top row of sheets. So, there is less risk of scratching or making a dent on them. The ridge is secured with long screws - self-tapping screws with a press washer.

Video. Re-roof an old house.

Each of us has seen metal tiles more than once. Every year, more than one hundred square meters of this roofing material is installed on various roofs. In view of the widespread use of metal tiles, I would like to say a few words about the correct choice of material, its proper storage, as well as how to cover the roof with metal tiles and install all the additional elements that come with it.

Advantages of metal tiles

This roofing material first appeared on sale in Finland in the second half of the last century and since then has been successfully leading among all coatings of this kind. Today, metal tiles are made from aluminum-zinc steel, which has a protective polymer coating that protects the metal from corrosion and is painted in different colors.

In the manufacture of this material, several coatings are used, which differ in their properties, cost and thickness. Galvanized profiled sheets have a more complex internal structure than it initially seems: usually a cold-rolled hot-dip galvanized sheet is used for the base, which has a thickness of 0.4-0.5 millimeters.

Metal tiles have a list of key qualities that determined its popularity: light weight, ease of installation, long useful life, increased wear resistance and reasonable price. The material does not burn, does not deform or melt. Sometimes consumers suffer from increased noise during strong winds or rain, but this occurs when the roofing, sound insulation and drainage are not installed correctly.

This roofing material has a stylish appearance, often imitating traditional ceramic tiles, but far surpassed the clay analogue in ergonomic qualities. Metal tiles are used for reconstruction of buildings or new construction. In any case, it can last 50 years, or even more, without losing its original appearance throughout the entire period of operation.

The process of laying metal tile sheets is one of those jobs that requires strict adherence to the requirements specified by the manufacturer in the instructions. Deviation from these recommendations can lead to a significant reduction in the service life of the material, and manufacturers in such cases decline responsibility due to breach of warranty.

Calculation of metal tile sheets

To buy required quantity sheets of metal tiles, first pay attention to any residential building that has a similar roof. “Waves” are placed across the roof slope, and “rows” are located along the roof slope. The pitch of metal tiles is the distance between the rows. A sheet that consists of 6 “waves” and has a pitch of 350 millimeters is called a “module”. One-, three-, six- and ten-module warehouse sheets are available for sale.

But you can also order sheets according to your own measured sizes. Of course, prices for special orders will be higher. However, when covering a complex roof with sheets standard sizes a lot of waste is generated, which also affects the price of covering the roof with metal tiles. But the possibility of individual cutting of roofing material for each customer allows us to reduce this waste significantly. Therefore, you need to choose warehouse sheets or their cutting based on a specific option.

The metal tile sheet has 2 widths: general and useful. As for the length of the sheets produced, the minimum length is 450 millimeters, and the maximum reaches 7 meters. The lower 50 millimeters of the sheet from the cut line to the wave crest is called the “bottom cut,” the size of which is the same for cut and stock sheets. The “top cut” from the crest of the wave to the edge at the top is 50 millimeters for standard metal tile sheets and up to 300 millimeters for special-order sheets.

To calculate the number of rows of sheets horizontally, you need maximum length divide the slope along the ridge or cornice by the usable width of the sheet. Round the resulting number up. You can calculate the length of sheets in a stacked row by summing up several values.

The first of them is the length of the slope, measured from the eaves to the ridge, that is, from the bottom to the top point of the slope. The second is the length of the eaves overhang of 0.05 meters, which is calculated to prevent moisture from getting under the roofing sheets. The third is the length of the vertical overlap of the sheets of 0.15 meters. If there are two or more sheets in a row, then each subsequent sheet will overlap the bottom one, interlocking with each other at the “lock” and forming a strong, tight and even connection.

When choosing sheets of metal tiles, remember that it is not recommended to take sheets that are longer than 4-4.5 meters, because this is expensive and quite labor-intensive; inconveniences arise when loading, unloading and lifting the material onto the roof, because a long sheet can be scratched and bent and become deformed. When using very long sheets of metal tiles, it is better to cut them into pieces, which must be laid with an overlap of 150 millimeters.

Metal tiles, according to building codes, must be stored in unheated room, where protection from weather factors is maintained - rain and direct sun rays. Profiles that are factory-packed must be laid on a flat surface using beams 20 centimeters thick as a support, in increments of 50 centimeters. If you plan to store the material for longer than 1 month, unpack the metal tiles and stack them in stacks up to 70 centimeters high.

Construction of the rafter system

Calculation of the elements of the rafter system must be done at the roof design stage. The peculiarities of the roof shape, wind and snow loads for the region should be taken into account. If there are errors in the calculation of the pitch and cross-section of the rafters, the roof may sag over time, and cracks may also appear. The pitch of the rafters for metal tiles should be 600-900 millimeters. If this indicator is increased, it is recommended to use large cross-section boards (lathing). As a rule, it is customary to use rafters with a section of 100 or 150 by 50 millimeters.

If you plan to insulate the roof, it is advisable to install additional horizontal ventilation between the rafters. Namely, in the side of the rafters, drill holes near the top of the roof that have a diameter of 2-2.5 centimeters, in increments of 30 centimeters. After this, it is necessary to treat the wood materials with fire-fighting and antiseptic impregnations.

Before covering the roof with metal tiles with your own hands, it is recommended to check the diagonal length of all slopes, since the roof must have the correct rectangular shape. Then check the cornice, ridge, plane and slope fractures for horizontalness. If there are errors, the surface must be leveled.

When choosing metal tiles as a roofing covering, the minimum angle of inclination of the roof should reach 14 degrees, which ensures acceptable water flow, and the roof itself will not accumulate moisture and leak in the future. Be sure to install the cornice board in the cut-out rafters grooves to add more rigidity to the structure for mounting gutter hooks.

Many instructions for installing metal tile sheets recommend installing a fascia strip as well. The front board is attached to the end of the rafters for additional protection. The filing of eaves overhangs is carried out using corrugated sheets, siding or soffits, having previously made a special sheathing. If soffits without perforation are used as lining, it is necessary to leave ventilation gaps to ensure free flow of air into the space under the roof.

Hooks for gutters are installed immediately before fastening the metal tiles. It is best to use long hooks, which provide greater structural strength. Install the gutter holders on the cornice strip, cutting out grooves for the “leg” of the hook. Secure the hooks with self-tapping screws. The installation pitch of the gutter holders usually coincides with the pitch of the rafters. For installed metal roofing, it is customary to use short hooks.

Arrangement of waterproofing and ventilation

Moisture and its minimal penetration into the under-roof space are contraindicated for any roofing pie, as it leads to rotting and cracking of the rafter system and corrosion of metal tile sheets. You can avoid such negative factors if you choose insulation for the roof of sufficient thickness, protect it from condensation with a waterproofing film and from moisture with a vapor barrier, and also arrange natural ventilation space.

For organization proper ventilation roofs made of metal tiles, it is necessary to calculate the area of ventilation gaps, according to the ratio of the total space of ventilation gaps to total area roofing 1 to 100. Remember that ventilation gaps must be placed between the waterproofing and the roof, thermal and waterproofing for through air flow, at the ridge and in the eaves hem for air flow.

For waterproofing metal roofing, it is customary to use waterproofing and anti-condensation films, as well as superdiffusion membranes. You should absolutely not install bitumen waterproofing under a metal tile roof! The waterproofing material is laid in such a way that air flows pass from the eaves without obstacles under the roof ridge and exit through ventilation holes that are installed in the highest place.

Lay the waterproofing layer horizontally between the ridge and the eaves with an overlap of 15 centimeters, on top of the rafter system. You should start from the cornices. Lay the material with a slight sag between the rafter legs of 20-25 millimeters to avoid tearing the film in cold weather. Fastening of this material can be done using wooden slats installed along the trusses. Vapor barrier film lay it overlapping under the insulation, connecting its pieces with adhesive tape.

Construction of sheathing for metal tiles

Metal tiles require the creation of sheathing. For this, bars are used that have a cross-section of 5 by 5 centimeters, and boards measuring 3.2 by 10 centimeters. First of all, nail the falling bars from the ridge to the eaves to the rafters along the waterproofing film. Sheathing boards are attached to them horizontally. The first of them from the cornice should be 1-1.5 centimeters thicker than the others - 5 by 10 centimeters.

The boards must be fastened with the following distances: from the beginning of the first board to the middle of the next one there should be 28 centimeters, between the middles of the remaining boards - 35 centimeters. It is recommended to check the sheathing pitch every 5 rows from the first board. Self-installation metal tiles are not an easy task. And if you make a mistake with the horizontality of the cornice board, you will have to re-cut the entire sheathing again.

Near the attic windows, chimney ducts and in the valleys, you need to make a continuous sheathing, nailing two additional abutment strips measuring 150 by 25 millimeters over a distance of 300 millimeters to the sides of the ridge strip. If the valley angle is almost flat, it is worth laying an additional layer waterproofing material. The endow is attached using self-tapping screws to the sheathing in increments of 300 millimeters. The bottom edge of the valley should be laid on top cornice strip. The overlap should be at least 100 millimeters at the horizontal junction of the valleys.

It is necessary to make a groove in the chimney pipe (it is strictly forbidden to cut into masonry seams) with a depth of at least 15 millimeters and waterproof the pipe by 50 millimeters, securing the cut with adhesive tape. The external junction strips will be placed on the pipe, with the upper part inserted into the groove. This area must be sealed with a high-quality heat-resistant sealant. Also at this stage it is necessary to provide space for the arrangement of passage elements of the roof - ventilation and antenna exits.

Fastening sheets of metal tiles

So we come to the main question of how to properly cover a roof with metal tiles. Regardless of the fact that metal tiles are a durable material, you should follow some rules when working with them. The process of laying metal tiles begins on the ground; you need to unpack and arrange the sheets in piles intended for each slope. Do not handle sheets with bare hands; wear protective gloves.

The technology for arranging a roof made of metal tiles allows for cutting sheets for complex areas on site. However, you cannot cut sheets with a grinder, as the protective polymer layer may be damaged. Use electric nibblers or tin snips for cutting. Before you start cutting, practice on a separate piece, since cutting metal tiles is more difficult than ordinary steel sheet.

When lifting metal tiles onto the roof, it is important not to scratch them. Take the sheet of material as you move it beyond the edge of the stamping line and lift it onto the roof using the guides from the boards. It is not recommended to lift long sheets by the edges, because the sheet may bend. Also, do not load multiple sheets at the same time. Remember that when moving through the sheets, you need to choose shoes with soft soles. Do not step on the crest of the wave, but only on your toes. Place your foot parallel to the slope.

The direction of laying sheets is not tied to anything, so it can be done from left to right or from right to left. When choosing to install metal tiles from left to right, you will have to lift the edge of the sheet, and place the edge of the next one under it. As a result, the outermost sheet will rest on the previous one, or rather, on its transverse wave, which prevents the sheets from sliding. On gable roofs installation of sheets begins from the end, and on hip sheets - they are laid from the hip. Align the sheets relative to the cornices. If you start laying the covering with long sheets, it will be much easier to level them.

When laying the material in one row, the first sheet is placed on the sheathing, temporarily attached with one self-tapping screw. Then lay the next sheet, aligned with the first, and fasten the sheets together. Make sure that all sheets fit together tightly and correctly from a geometric position. Install the metal tiles, moving from the eaves to the ridge. After this, attach all the sheets to the sheathing, and the last sheet in the row is attached to the sheathing only after leveling the next block.

When laying sheets of metal tiles from right to left in several rows, lay the first sheet, aligning it along the end and the cornice, then place a second sheet on top of the first, temporarily secure it with one screw in the center of the sheet at the ridge, align the sheets and fasten them together with screws. Then you need to lay the third sheet on the left side of the first, fasten the sheets together and lay the fourth sheet over the third. Align the entire block along the end and cornice, and then finally attach the metal tile sheets to the sheathing.

When laying material on a triangular slope, before starting installation, it is necessary to mark the center of the slope and draw an axis through this center. Then the same axis needs to be marked on the sheet and the features of the axes drawn on the sheet and the slope should be combined. Secure the sheet to the ridge with one self-tapping screw. On both sides of it, continue installation according to the principles that were described in the previous versions.

Sheets of metal tiles are attached to each other, to the eaves, to the ends and to the sheathing. First, three or four sheets are fastened together at the joints, then they are secured in place with one screw, aligned strictly along the eaves, and only then the sheets are finally attached to the sheathing. Sheets of roofing material are attached to the sheathing with two self-tapping screws - near the ridge and at the eaves. Continue installing the coating according to the same scheme. Brush away any drilling shavings with a soft brush after finishing installing the metal tiles and touch up the surface if necessary.

End and ridge strip

To protect the metal tile from the lifting force of the wind and the process of loosening its fastening, an end strip is required. It also acts as a protective element for the structure from moisture. The end strip is installed towards the ridge from the cornice, without cutting off the excess at the ridge. Attach this strip to the end board with self-tapping screws every 500-600 millimeters

Due to the difference in heights, the end strip is pressed tightly against the sheets of metal tiles, this eliminates rattling and noise during gusts of wind. The overlap of the end strips should be up to 100 millimeters. A layer of waterproofing must be laid on top end strip, which will cover the edge of the waterproofing material. Also, such a strip should cover the upper crest of the wave to protect the metal tiles from water ingress.

To ensure proper ventilation of the space under the roof, air must freely pass to the ridge from the eaves and exit through the holes in the ridge seal to the outside. Lay waterproofing on the continuous sheathing so that it overlaps the bottom layer of waterproofing material along the edges by at least 150 millimeters.

The ridge is attached to the sheathing using ridge screws into the upper crest of the metal tile wave on both sides. The seal is attached to the ridge before the latter is installed on the roof, having first removed the protective film from it.

Upper valley and abutment strips

The upper valley strip is needed to remove moisture from the inner corner of the roof, located at the junction of two slopes. The valley is secured with self-tapping screws so that they do not go through and damage the waterproofing. Remember that between the sheets of tiles and upper valley A self-expanding seal must be installed.

It is also necessary to leave ventilation gaps of about 20 millimeters between the valley planks, and make an overlap of 200 millimeters at the joints when laying the planks. The corner sheet of the valley must overlap the roofing sheet by at least 250 millimeters.

Special strips must be installed on breaks in the roof and when the roofing is adjacent to the wall. Roof fractures can be reverse or straight. In areas of fractures, it is recommended to maintain continuous waterproofing. In case of a direct break in the slope, the sheathing boards should be as close to each other as possible. The sheet of metal tile covering the breaks in the slopes should protrude slightly above the break in the roof and thereby cover it.

In the case of a reverse fracture of the roof slope, you can use the junction with the wall as a mating element, placing it on the lower slope with the rolled side. The connection of the roof to the wall is arranged according to a similar principle as the procedure for connecting to a pipe. The waterproofing is removed and raised onto the wall, at least 50 millimeters before the groove. Depending on the connection - to the end or side of the wall, use a universal or profile seal.

Fastening gutters and snow guards

Long hooks are installed on the eaves board or rafters before covering the old roof with metal tiles. For better water drainage, the gutter angle should be at least 5 millimeters per linear meter. It is customary to install hooks with a vertical offset. To insert the gutter into the hook, you need to insert its spout into the gutter in such a way that the spout is inside the curl.

Then you should fix the other edge of the gutter using a snap-on plate clamp. The outer edge of the gutter should be 6 millimeters lower than the inner edge in order to prevent water from entering the façade during heavy rainfall. The continuation of the edge of the metal tile should hang 50 millimeters above the gutter. The gutter is connected to the corner of another gutter or to the next gutter end-to-end using a special connector.

The gutter connector is equipped with a special rubber gasket that ensures a tight connection between the two gutters and also compensates for thermal expansion. Drainpipe should have such a length that the drain elbow is located at a distance of about 200 millimeters from the ground or moisture-resistant base, since if the height is too high, water splashes. To organize the removal of water, it is necessary to equip a storm drain.

It is imperative to install snow holders on a metal tile roof, because thanks to these products the snow will not fall on your head and will not scratch the roofing material as it falls off. Snow holders are attached under the second transverse step of the metal tile parallel to the cornice. They are installed under the crest of the wave in bars that were previously attached. The lower edge of the snow guard is attached from above on every second wave. For long slopes, it is recommended to install snow guards in several rows.

Lightning rod and roof grounding

To install the lightning rod and weather vane, prepare a metal bracket, a compass, metal screws, and a wrench. Weather vanes can be mounted on a ridge, roof end or spire. For security metal roofing needs to be grounded. This is done in order to protect the roofing material from damage when lightning strikes the roof and protect the residents of the house. Such a system consists of a down conductor, a grounding conductor and an lightning rod.

The lightning rod is installed at the highest point of the roof using wooden supports. The down conductor is attached to the lightning rod and lowered along the sheathing under the sheets of tiles. It is welded to the lightning rod, and where it comes into contact with the sheets of metal tiles, it is removed protective covering or a layer of varnish. For greater contact between points, it is worth branching such a wire into several sheets so that lightning quickly finds the path of minimal resistance.

Then they run the down conductor along the wall of the residential building and connect it to the ground electrode. It is recommended to install the down conductor along the wall opposite the entrance. To equip the grounding of the roof, you need to dig a hole 1.5 meters deep, fill it with a 10-centimeter layer of sand, fill it with water, lower the ground electrode there, fill the hole with soil and water it.

Now you have learned how much it costs to cover a roof with metal tiles, and how to do it correctly. But that is not all! Additional elements are included with each ventilation or antenna output. First, you should place a template of a passage element or ventilation outlet on the metal roof and trace it along the contour. Then you need to cut a hole along the resulting line. Outputs and passage elements are fixed to metal profile with special screws.

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Such an element of the house as the roof is, of course, the most susceptible to various natural influences. Moreover, the roof, just like the foundation, directly affects the service life of the entire structure and its reliability, so the roofing of the house should be done correctly, carefully observing all the requirements necessary for this work.

Slate roof covering

House roofs made using asbestos cement are one of the most common options when installing a roof. country house, since in addition to their durability, their cost is relatively low and they are easy to install.

There are two main types of asbestos-cement roofing materials:

Wavy sheets, most often called slate.
Flat sheets.

As a rule, corrugated sheets are more popular as a material for roofing, since they are easier to install and reliable throughout their entire service life, and the amount of wood required for sheathing when using slate will be needed less. Standard tilt angle slate roofing is 25 – 33 degrees.

Figuring out how to cover a roof with your own hands using asbestos cement sheets, you should be guided by the following rules:

corrugated asbestos-cement sheets must be mounted on a lathing, the basis of which is wooden beams with a cross-section of 50x50 millimeters, maintaining rafter step, equal to no more than 1.2 meters. Another option for lathing construction is a section of 50x60 millimeters in increments of up to 1.5 meters;
boards for sheathing should have a cross-section of 120x40 millimeters or poles with a diameter of 70 - 80 millimeters. The pitch distance between the sheathing beams should not be more than 525 millimeters;
covering the roof of the veranda requires reducing the slope of the slate roof to 10 degrees, but in this case it will be necessary to seal the transverse and longitudinal sheet joints;
Each slate sheet should be supported by 3 beams or boards. To ensure that the sheets of material fit both to the sheathing and to each other more tightly, special 6x8 millimeter linings are installed under the eaves beam, thereby raising it, and all the remaining even beams are raised using a 3x70 millimeter strip. In the area of the ridge, eaves overhang, valleys and holes in the roof, instead of lathing, flooring is laid, which consists of 2 - 3 boards;
Slate sheets must be laid in rows, starting from the bottom and moving up, parallel to the roof eaves and periodically checking for correct installation using a cord. Each of the laid slate sheets should overlap the adjacent sheet by a distance of one wave. Adjacent rows must be laid with an overlap equal to 120 millimeters with a roof slope of 33 degrees or equal to 200 millimeters with a roof slope of 25 degrees;
Sheet rows also need to be laid according to the principle of staggering, the value of which is calculated based on the laying method. Following the first option, even rows relative to odd ones can be shifted by one wave. Here it is important to prevent the concentration of the corners of all sheets in one place, as this can cause the sheet to break and the appearance of cracks and crevices on the roof surface. According to the second method, sheets of material are laid in rows without spacing, and the corners must be cut in advance;
if the roof slope is more than 33 degrees, then the slate sheets should be laid dry, and all gaps that appear must be sealed with a solution based on cement and sand with a fiber filler. Provided that the angle of inclination is smaller, then the sheets in the overlap area should be laid on a layer of mastic or a similar solution. The basis of the mastic is bitumen, solar oil, fluff lime and slag wool;
Slate sheets must be fastened to the sheathing with zinc-treated nails or screws equipped with roofing felt or galvanized steel washers measuring 35x35 millimeters. After the mastic has dried, it is recommended to paint the nails. You can drill holes intended for nails or screws either directly during the installation process or in advance using manual or electric drill;
Each sheet of material must be fixed with three nails: two of them are driven in in the area of the second wave from the edge on the overlapping side, and one in the fourth wave to the eaves beam. The remaining sheets of the next rows along the edges are fastened with two nails;
In order to secure the walking bridges to the ridge beam, special hooks are strengthened in increments of 2 meters. The roofing ribs and ridge are treated with shaped asbestos-cement parts in the shape of a half-cylinder. In the absence of such elements, you can use boards knocked together at an angle, which should be painted with red lead or aluminum-based paint diluted with bitumen;
if the roof slope is less than 35 degrees, then roofing material can be placed under the asbestos-cement sheets in order to prevent moisture from getting under the material and its subsequent flow into the attic;
When covering the roof with slate sheets, it is necessary to cover chimneys, grooves and dormer windows material such as sheet steel. To connect the sheets, it is necessary to use double, horizontal folds or to ensure that the sheets overlap at a distance of 150 millimeters. It is also necessary to lay a strip of burlap treated with red lead or bitumen under the sheets. Solid wood flooring should be located under the groove, roofing felt is also placed there.

Tiling the roof

When deciding what material to use to cover the roof with your own hands, you can easily use tiles. This material is characterized by fire resistance, strength and for a long time services, but recently it has been used less and less by developers. As for the repair of the tile covering, as a rule, there are no problems with it, and all work comes down to replacing those flooring elements that have failed.

The main disadvantage of tile roofing is its heavy weight, so the rafter and sheathing systems must be further strengthened.

In order to avoid leaks during operation, the angle of inclination of the tiled roof must be at least 30 degrees.

Roof tiles come in several types:

groove stamped tiles;
grooved strip tiles;
flat strip tiles.

The basis of groove tiles is a sand-cement or clay mixture. The ridges on the roof are covered with special ridge tiles.

The most popular option is grooved strip tiles, the weight of which is relatively small compared to other types. It is equipped with grooves, or flanges, that serve as recesses to accommodate the projections of adjacent tiles.

The design of grooved stamped tiles includes an eye with a hole designed to tie the material to the sheathing through it. For these purposes, strip tiles have a hole located in the tenon.

When wondering how to cover the roof of a house with tiles, you should know the following standards for its installation:

Covering the roof with metal tiles, watch the video:

Roof covering with sheet steel

The main advantage of roofs with sheet steel is the ease of installation of this material on complex roofs with a complex configuration, that is, with protruding and sinking corners, slopes of different sizes and other complex elements. However, the cost of sheet steel is very high, in addition, this coating requires certain and regular maintenance.

If non-galvanized steel is used, then immediately before laying it should be treated on both sides with hot bitumen.

The sheathing for covering made of sheet steel should have a beam cross-section equal to 50x50 millimeters in increments of 200 millimeters. Sometimes, in order to insulate the attic space and increase the overall service life of the roof, a continuous sheathing with decking is installed on top of roofing felt or roofing felt.

When completing the finishing of the roof ridge, the covering of one row must be fastened to a gutter located on the wall using an element such as a double rebated seam.

How to cover the roof of a private house? Such thoughts are often visited by the owner of most of them. And it doesn’t matter that the reason is not at all that she is already old and there is practically no sense in repairing the roof, but in the desire to give her something different design solution. The main thing is to choose a material that meets the requirements for the roof and the wishes of the owner.

Nowadays, the roof of a country house is no longer just a part of the overall structure that protects from bad weather. A huge selection of roofing materials and original roof designs allow you to emphasize the taste and status of the owner.

The design of the roof and the material for the roof directly depend on the expected appearance of the future roof of a country house. is still a rarity in private housing construction, but pitched ones are being built everywhere. The variety of roofing materials, of course, complicates things somewhat. right choice. However, there are objective criteria, adhering to which it is difficult to make a mistake.

What should the roofing material be?

You can make it easier to solve the problem than to cover the roof of a private house if you take into account the importance of the following parameters:

Durability. Obviously, the longer the period, the better.
Material weight. Recommended weight – no more than 250 kg/m2.
Fire resistance. Preference is given to non-combustible materials.
Environmental friendliness. The internal microclimate in the house directly depends on the cleanliness and naturalness of the roofing material.
Easy installation. It is clear that the simpler and more convenient it is to lay the material on the roof, the lower the cost of covering the roof will be both in time and labor.
Aesthetic appeal.

Today, varieties of tiles have become widespread. In combination with correctly calculated rafter system and good heat and sound insulation, such a roof turns out to be reliable and beautiful. , although it continues to be used frequently, has begun to lose its former popularity. Bitumen-polymer materials are distinguished by their cost, which makes them accessible, one might say, to any person, but they require careful adherence fire safety standards. It is considered elite, gaining popularity. Due to its characteristics such as natural origin, durability, non-flammability and very high aesthetics.

What is the best way to reroof a house?

What specific characteristics and properties do they have the most?

Metal tiles

The easiest and, most importantly, inexpensive material for roofing, metal tiles are not in vain considered one of the most popular.
Its load per square meter is only 4.5 kg, it is easy to install, durable, and is great for suburban frame house, which often do not have a foundation.

The anti-corrosion coating of metal tiles has a rich range of colors, which allows it to be used for any architectural solution. WITH back side it is susceptible to corrosion, therefore, to protect against the accumulation of moisture under its sheets, it is assumed that there is a special vapor and vapor barrier layer. It is also mandatory to organize thermal insulation and effective ventilation. This allows you not to be afraid of the appearance of “cold bridges”. This material laid on a properly prepared base.

Such a disadvantage as excessive “noise” of metal tiles can be easily eliminated if noise-absorbing insulation is used under the sheets.

Clay tiles

Whoever liked clay tiles on the roof for their chic appearance, you need to know that the weight of this material is quite large, and this requires reinforcement roofing structure, thick-walled beams and sheathing arranged between them. All this is associated with an increase in financial investments and labor costs. Before firing, a special engobe coating is applied to the tiles, followed by a layer of glaze. The laying of the tiles itself does not cause any difficulties.

It is better to cover roofs that have the correct geometric shape with metal or clay tiles.

Soft roof

For complex roof Flexible tiles are perfect. It is much lighter than metal, and also takes any shape, that is, it can realize any design idea, even the most incredible. It features a rich color palette.

Flexible tiles are laid on a solid surface. It can be plywood or solid wood sheathing.

High noise absorption bitumen shingles provides an ideal microclimate in the house.

Ondulin

This material is not inferior in popularity to bitumen. Light weight and ease of installation make it possible to cover the roof in the shortest possible time. In appearance it is similar to the usual slate, but provides excellent performance qualities: frost resistance, strength, environmental friendliness, resistance to high temperatures– up to 115⁰C.

It is important when laying it that sufficient rigidity must be ensured so that wind loads do not cause rattling or vibration. Wide range of possibilities The choice of color and light weight of the material allow it to be used for any type of roof.

Slate

You can't ignore the slate. Previously, the question of what is better to cover the roof did not even arise - you had to choose between roofing felt and slate. The latter is easy to install. Considering the content of asbestos in its composition, slate is often used to cover small country houses or barns. One of its main advantages is the price. The material is fragile, so it is better to buy slate sheets from trusted manufacturers. Otherwise, you cannot avoid beating and breaking them right during the installation process.

Bituminous slate

Bitumen sheets with a wavy texture are not only a budget option, but also very simple and fast. This material is laid directly on top old roof, and without any special preparation.

Corrugated sheet

This material is successfully used to cover new and old roofs. To install it, you do not need any special tools or special knowledge. It, like metal tiles, is made of steel using the “cold rolled” technology, which allows you to maintain the integrity of its polymer coating. The profile of the profiled sheets is similar to slate. Waves can differ in shape (trapezoidal, rectangular, sine) and in height.