We cover the walls of the bathroom with ceramic tiles: advice from the experts. Professional advice and instructions for preparing the floor yourself, laying and grouting tiles Laying tiles with your own hands step-by-step instructions

05-10-2014

It is difficult to find such a popular facing material as tile. It is used for finishing the most various rooms. In most cases, installation tiles carried out in toilets, bathrooms, shower stalls, on landings and steps.

Advantages of using facing material

The use of tiles is not a tribute to past traditions. Her choice demonstrates the rational approach of the property owner. Despite the availability of many of the latest floor and wall coverings, tiles will never go out of style. Thanks to the unique operational characteristics This facing material is far superior to most modern coatings.

The advantages of using tiles include:

• environmentally friendly and absolutely harmless to human health (made from natural clay);
• resistance to negative impact wet and chemical environment;
• ease of installation;
• easy cleaning from various contaminants;
• excellent practicality;
• long operational period (up to 40 years);
• attractive appearance;
• fire safety;
• excellent antistatic properties;
• the coating does not absorb odors;
• affordable price;
• preservation of the original appearance throughout the entire service life;
• variety of shapes, sizes and textures (tiles imitating natural stone are especially popular).

Tile production occurs by firing the raw materials from which it is made. Thanks to this, the following are destroyed:

• substances that may cause an allergic reaction;
• all fungi and bacteria.

Perhaps the only disadvantage of tiles is their fragility. It is not very resistant to mechanical damage resulting from impacts with a hard or heavy object.

To lay tiles we will need:

• the facing material itself;
• primer;
• glue;
• grout mixture;
• solution container;
• wooden slats;
• rags;
• flannel fabric;
• level (laser and regular);
• roulette;
• plumb line;
• drill with mixer;
• tile cutter;
• glass cutter;
• marker;
• mites;
• a set of spatulas (toothed and rubber tools are required);
• trowel;
• wooden hammer;
• plastic crosses;
• rule;
• wide knife;
• drywall;
• polypropylene mesh;
• PVA glue;
• staples;
• water;
• soap;
• construction pistol.

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Tile installation technology

At the initial stage, the surface on which the coating will be laid is prepared.

It is cleaned, leveled and dried. The surface is primed.

The prepared floor base is marked. To ensure sufficient access to the walls, skirting boards and door trim are removed. The midpoints are measured on opposite walls. This is necessary to determine the center lines of the room.

The purchased tiles are laid out on the marked surface with your own hands. This is how it is determined whether there will be areas where a whole tile will not fit. If there are such areas, you will have to cut the tiles.

Exist following methods tile installation:

• traditional;
• in a checkerboard pattern;
• diagonally;
• herringbone;
• modular grid.

Depending on the installation method, the first row of material will be laid. The first type of installation is used in fairly spacious rooms, and tiling work begins from the middle of the wall. When working in smaller rooms, everything starts from the second row. It is best to do diagonal laying of cladding in spacious and large rooms, however, this method is the most complex and time-consuming.

When laying diagonally:

• the frieze is marked;
• Whole and cut tiles are laid around the perimeter;
• the frieze is laid.

Level location facing material in the process of work is achieved using a level. You should also pay attention to the corners of the tiles. Sometimes you come across tiles that are concave unevenly or may have a protrusion. In this case, in order to prevent floor unevenness, the tiles are placed slightly below the planned level. One requirement is fulfilled unquestioningly - the seams must always coincide in perpendicular directions.

Laying the tiles begins on the wall opposite the entrance to the room. A wooden strip is attached to the bottom of the wall, on which the first row of tiles will subsequently rest. Traditional technology Installation of tiles (joint to joint) requires compliance with the coincidence of vertical and horizontal seams. To check the vertical deviation, you must use a plumb line and level.

A very important stage is preparing the solution for high-quality adhesion of the tiles to the wall. Preparation glue mixture carried out in any suitable container, in which sequentially:

• water is poured;
• dry adhesive mixture is poured;
• The solution is thoroughly mixed.

After a few minutes, the prepared solution is mixed again and infused until smooth for 1-2 minutes.

The next step is to apply glue to the base under the tiles. Work with heavy (floor) facing material is done using a notched trowel. Glue is applied to the base of the floor smooth side, and is distributed over the surface by the toothed side of the tool. The required thickness of the glue layer should be slightly higher than the height of the spatula teeth.

Having placed the tile on the floor or the first row of the wall, it should be pressed very tightly with your hands over the entire surface. For greater effect, the tiles are tapped with a wooden hammer. To obtain identical width and distance between tile seams, plastic cross separators are used. Having placed the tile on the glue, you need to tap and punch it with a mallet along the entire width and length of the tile, at the same time clearing it of any glue residue.

The crosses are removed 1-2 hours after laying the tiles. The next day, you can seal the seams between the tiles. This work is carried out using a special grout. Using a rubber spatula, apply the grout solution to the joints between the tiles, rubbing all the gaps, cracks and holes.

After sealing the seams, you should wait about an hour. The grout should harden. The tiles are washed using a sponge or rag soaked in warm water. It is imperative to wash off the grout and excess glue residues in a timely manner, since the top (glazed) layer of the tile is damaged very easily. Created tiled surface polished with flannel cloth.

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Cutting tiles

In some cases, it is not possible to lay the entire tile. We have to resort to cutting it. Before this process is carried out, the tiles are soaked in clean water for approximately 2-3 hours. Wall tiles should be cut with the simplest glass cutter, and thicker ones flooring- tile cutter.

When cutting the material with a glass cutter, the cut line is drawn further than 10 mm from the edge of the tile. The glass cutter must be used after marking the cut line, pressing evenly on the tile and leaving a noticeable and clear mark. After this, the tile is placed on the edge of a solid object. Pressure is applied to the area that needs to be cut off. The tile will break exactly along the cut of the glass cutter.

It's even easier to work with a tile cutter. The main thing is that the wheel of the device does not move from side to side - this will lead to crooked cuts. The tiles are marked with a marker and placed in the base of the tile cutter. Next, the following actions are carried out:

• The tile cutter wheel is aligned with the drawn line:
• the handle of the device rises;
• the wheel touches the line on the tile;
• a movement of the handle towards you is made;
• Only one pass with the wheel is carried out.

The remaining excess pieces of tile are removed using pliers. The tiles are cut only once, after which they become fragile and of poor quality. If it is necessary to create a hole in the tile, the glossy surface is removed in its place. And then the hole is drilled with a drill.

Laying tiles yourself is not an easy task, and therefore many people trust it to professionals. But such a solution is quite expensive, and therefore doing the work yourself is far from uncommon. This is exactly what helps step by step installation tiles

An important factor in this case is strict adherence to work technology. In total, the entire process can be divided into 7 stages. More specifically, laying ceramic tiles on the floor is carried out in the following sequence:

1. First of all, materials are calculated, purchased and tools are prepared.
2. Next, you need to prepare the surface; in this case, the base is leveled and primed.
3. The next step is marking, which involves rough laying out the tiles and making marks, in some cases, support stops.
4. The next step begins laying, in particular the first row.
5. Next, the entire area is laid with solid tiles.
6. The next step is cutting the tiles and laying them.
7. And finally the joints are grouted.

Thus, for correct execution laying tiles on the floor with your own hands detailed instructions simply necessary. And then we will look in more detail at each of the stages of work.

Preparation of tools and materials

If you are laying tiles yourself, you will need the following tool:

1. Master OK.
2. Several spatulas, in particular, serrated, regular and rubber.
3. You should also arm yourself with several levels, small, up to 50 centimeters in size, and medium, up to 1 meter.
4. Next up is a rubber mallet.
5. One more necessary tool becomes a grinder or, since in most cases it is simply necessary to cut tiles. Here you can also note additional devices, such as wire cutters, sandpaper and a file.
6. And the last device will be a container for the glue mixture.

We've sorted out the tools, now we should pay attention to the materials, or more precisely to their calculation and purchase.

In particular, for a correct calculation it is not enough to simply measure the surface area; factors such as:

1. Tile size.
2. Thickness of the adhesive mixture layer.
3. Tile type.
4. Base material.
5. Presence of obstacles.

All these factors simply need to be taken into account. In addition, if it is necessary to cut tiles, you should also pay attention to the size of the pieces. Because if they are more than half the size of the tile, then for one such row you will need to purchase twice as many tiles.

Usually, when making calculations, 10-15% is added to the resulting number, which is mostly enough to cover cutting costs, as well as cases of defects (damage to tiles, incorrect cutting, etc.).

Speaking about the adhesive mixture, here the calculation is carried out based on the type of tile, the type of the mixture itself, size, and required thickness layer, which is usually indicated on the packaging.

To calculate the required amount of grout and glue, you can use the calculators on our website:

This issue has been sorted out, now you can move directly to the technological process.

Preparing the surface for installation

The first issue is preparing the foundation. It is very important to ensure that the surface is as smooth as possible, otherwise ideal installation will not work. The main mistake is the myth that a slightly larger layer of glue can hide unevenness, which is not true. High-quality styling It is possible only on a flat base, and nothing else.

Before laying, it is first necessary to dismantle the old coating, if any, down to the very base. The next step is to form and.

The method of leveling the floor does not play a role here. This could be either the installation of a “warm floor” system, etc. The main factor is full compliance with the technology of work.

Also, all thresholds, baseboards and other obstacles that may interfere with laying the tiles flush against the wall must be dismantled.

In some cases, it is possible to lay tiles on the floor without dismantling the old covering (in particular, provided that it is also tile).

Surface marking

And the next step is marking the floor surface, which is especially important when laying uneven tiles. It is carried out as follows:

1. Mark the straight line of the first row of tiles. Since the installation is carried out starting from the far corner of the room, the markings are accordingly done as well.
2. Next, markings for the location of the material are made. In cases where tiles are laid without seams with a pattern, a complete drawing of the arrangement of elements is necessary.
3. An important factor is the placement at the entrance; in this case, the marking should be carried out in such a way that solid fragments lie at the door; accordingly, it may be necessary to make an indentation from the far wall.
4. An important factor when marking is taking into account which also plays a role.
5. You can also pre-lay out the tiles on the surface for more accurate marking.

Laying tiles diagonally

Beginning of laying and filling the area with solid fragments.

After the markings are completed, you can begin laying ceramic tiles with your own hands. To begin with, we will directly analyze the arrangement of the first row and the further laying of solid fragments, after which we will move on to cutting and final laying.

So, let's look at how tiles are laid, step-by-step instruction in this case it will be the best helper:

1. First of all, you need to prepare the adhesive mixture. There shouldn't be any difficulties here. We do everything according to the instructions on the package. In this case, the amount of kneading should not exceed that required for an area measuring 1 square meter.
2. Now, armed with a notched trowel, apply a layer of glue to the floor surface. For greater reliability, you can also apply a layer to the tile itself; in this case, the grooves of the mixture on the surfaces should be perpendicular to each other.
3. We place the first tile on the glue, and then press it down, lowering it to the required level. Next, you need to level it to an ideal horizontal position, which is checked using a building level.
4. For leveling, a rubber hammer is used, with the help of which, with light tapping, the tile is pressed more tightly to the surface.
5. It is important to do everything quickly and carefully. After installation, it is highly undesirable to remove the tiles from the surface.
6. So, the first tile is laid and leveled. Now you can start laying the next ones.
7. In the same way as in the first case, glue is applied and the tiles are laid on the floor. Next, alignment is carried out at the level of the first element. If necessary, you can add a little glue.
8. After the final shrinkage of the tiles, the excess mixture is removed.
9. It is important not to forget about or special ones to form identical seams over the entire surface.
10. It should be placed either in the corners, at the intersection, or with an indentation of 2-3 centimeters from the edge of the tile.
11. All gaps between the tiles should be immediately cleaned of excess adhesive, since once it dries, cleaning will be almost impossible.
12. Large tiles are laid in the same way.
13. Next, the base area is completely covered with whole fragments.

At this point, this phase is completed, and you can move on. Before that, you need to let the glue set and harden to such an extent that you can walk on the coating. It is advisable to leave the masonry for a day, and then continue working.

Cutting tiles and laying the remaining fragments

The next step is to cut the missing pieces of the coating. Several tools can be used to cut tiles, depending on the type and thickness of the tile. In some cases, it is permissible to use a glass cutter, in others you can only cope with it using a grinder. And for porcelain tiles you will need already.

Having chosen a tool, you must first carry out everything necessary measurements and make marks on the tiles. All marks are made with back side. Having marked the tiles, you can start cutting. Since the process is quite dusty, it is advisable to carry it out outdoors.

If it is necessary to cut uneven fragments, for example, arched ones, use a machine with a diamond wheel or a special tile cutter-nippers.

The cutting process itself is carried out as follows:

1. The tile must be firmly fixed so that it does not wobble or vibrate when cutting.
2. After which, following the applied marks, cutting is performed.

In the case of using a special tile cutter, it includes a special platform for fixation and limiters, with the help of which you can indicate the direction of cutting.

Grouting tiles

And the last stage is grouting the joints. It cannot be carried out only if seamless styling tiles

To start, you need to wait until the adhesive mixture has completely dried, and then completely remove crosses and other crosses from the surface. auxiliary materials, if any were used.

Before we start, we conduct complete cleaning surface, which can be done with a vacuum cleaner, and let's get started. The process itself is carried out as follows:

1. Cover the edges of the tiles with masking tape. This is done if the tiles are matte and the pores are large and to avoid contamination and reduce the amount of work required to clean the tiles when using epoxy grout.
2. The next step is to dilute the grout and apply it using a rubber spatula.
3. Movements are performed perpendicular to the seam, with pressure in order to completely fill the seam with the composition.
4. After which the excess mortar is removed, the seam at the same time is slightly deepened and leveled.
5. After complete drying, the tape is removed and the surface of the tile is wiped with a damp sponge.

The widest selection of floor ceramics does not affect the basic rules for its installation. There are many characteristic features, technological nuances, without knowledge of which you may not get what you expect.

Absolutely all ceramic manufacturers insist: one should start not with testing the base for compliance with standards, but with checking the ceramic finish and developing a plan for its installation.

Your first priority is to choose the right design and caliber of the product. As a rule, in stores, stands are tiled with tiles from one collection in the optimal layout, in the opinion of the plant designers. Approximate variations can be viewed in professional catalogs on manufacturers’ websites or in sales areas.

You can change, supplement or completely redesign the proposed design to your taste. To do this, ask to provide you with several samples of the main tiles and their components (borders, decor, panels, etc.) and create a layout suitable for your room.

But keep in mind - upon entering the room, the first thing that catches your eye is the center of the room or the area that is completely free of furniture and equipment (the so-called free patch). IN small kitchens and bathrooms are, as a rule, no more than 1-2 m². Therefore, laying tiles on a concrete floor should be planned in such a way that the center falls exactly on the visible square meters area. Thanks to this simple technique, solid elements will be glued to the “empty” area, and cut ones will be glued only around the perimeter. This is especially important if there are uneven walls.

Design planning with offset.

The next stage is the choice of installation scheme for floor ceramics. There are several basic types:

Thanks to the wide variety of formats and types of tiles (elongated planks, polygonal, oval products, etc.), installation of floor ceramics can be carried out according to parquet patterns (herringbone, wicker, deck, squares), chaotically or modularly (a combination of different format claddings).

If you intend to use decorative elements or a combination of colors, then don’t be lazy to make a drawing to scale. You can also request the development of similar sketches from ceramics of the same series, thickness or manufacturer from consultants in shopping centers, specializing in ceramic cladding. As a rule, factories provide not only the relevant computer programs, but also special devices (outwardly reminiscent of ATMs), on which even an inexperienced user can create his own floor design, and in a two- or three-dimensional version. BUT! If you want to combine tiles from different manufacturers and calibers, be sure to ensure that the thickness matches perfectly, down to the millimeter. Otherwise, you won’t be able to lay the tiles absolutely straight without any flaws.

It is better to think through the layout in advance in order to purchase the required amount of facing material. The required quadrature is calculated based on:

Surface area

This value must be divided by the area of ​​one element, taking into account the tile joints. If the tile has a complex shape or multi-format ceramics are used in one design, then it is better to draw a drawing.

Tile sizes

The number of whole and trimmed elements in one row depends on this. To calculate the first value, you can ask consultants to make calculations in special programs (provided to sellers by manufacturers) or use the formula:

If, in accordance with the project, it is necessary to lay a frieze and a trim around the perimeter (a wall section of the main or complementary tiles), then the overall pattern must be designed in such a way that the border strip is laid from whole elements, and full-length or cut tiles can be used on the trim border.

The floor is made of tiles with a border frieze.

When buying ceramic tiles, be sure to take a small supply, that is, you need about 10-15% more than required. Partially finishing material will go into scraps, possible damage, or will be useful in the future for repairing damaged elements.

Styling techniques

In what cases are tiles laid with a gap or seamless method, with a straight or zigzag seam? It depends not on your desire, but on the characteristics of the flooring material. Firstly, the monolithic canvas, of course, looks beautiful, but it is made only from rectified porcelain stoneware. That is, the most stable and resistant to temperature changes cladding with edges processed on special machines. It is very difficult to lay this material yourself without solid work experience.

Secondly, almost all ceramic flooring products must be installed with a gap. How larger size products, as well as the load, the wider the seam should be, otherwise in the future, due to seasonal deformations, various defects(cracks, etc.). Recommended values:

• For tiles of caliber from 5x5 to 30x30 cm - 1-1.5 mm;
• For ceramics with dimensions from 30x30 to 60x60 cm - 2-5 mm;
• For large format products from 60x60 cm and more - 5-10 mm.

Tile joints: zero, narrow and wide.

The choice of seam option - straight or curved - also depends on the shape of the tiles and design features. Some collections involve laying a base with inserts, joining a pattern in a certain order, etc. Similar information is available on the box.

So, we have come to the finish line. The cladding has been selected, the layout option has been approved, you can begin last stage– selection of flooring materials for quality. Please note the following when purchasing:

1. High-grade tiles must have the same thickness, width and length (maximum deviations, as a rule, do not exceed 0.5 mm), as well as the same shade, without streaks, stripes, foreign inclusions, stains, chips, small cracks, scratches, unevenness and other defects in the design.
2. The glaze should be uniform, without drips or sagging, the surface should be as smooth as possible with a minimum of negative (concave) or positive (convex) deviations from the plane, and the side edges should be free of burrs, irregularities, and chips. This is easy to check - connect two tiles together at the ends and front sides, and carefully inspect. Any deviations negatively affect the evenness and aesthetics of the future floor.
3. The purchased set must be from the same batch and the same tone, which guarantees the absolute identity of all elements in color, size and other parameters. This information is indicated on the box.
4. Tiles should be cleaned of packaging and paraffin or wax protective coatings, which are applied to the surface of some collections to protect against scratches during transportation.

Tools and materials

To install the tiles yourself, prepare the necessary kit.

Including tools:

• tape measure and metal ruler;
• rack and moisture meter;
• level and square;
• marker for applying markings to facing elements (main and complementary tiles, decors, borders, etc.);
• marking dye cord;
• electric tile cutter or manual tile cutter, special saws for ceramics for forming shaped cutouts or a drill with cup attachments for drilling round holes under pipes;
• a plastic bucket and a construction mixer for mixing glue;
• trowel and notched trowel for applying the solution. The choice of the number of the last tool depends on the dimensions of the tile, and the larger the facing element, the larger size spatula teeth;
• pliers;
• mallet and spatula for grouting;
• sandpaper for processing tile cuts;
• assembly gloves and knee pads;
• bucket, sponge and soft fabric to remove excess adhesive that has emerged.

Materials you will need:

• Ceramic tiles with a full set of shaped elements;
• The adhesive mixture is cement or polymer, corresponding to the specifics of the base (mineral screed, wood, plywood, etc.), as well as the operating conditions of the cladding. That is, it allows you to lay tiles on the floor in a heated or unheated space, on a heated base, in showers or swimming pools;
• Primer emulsion;
• Waterproofing suitable type(in wet areas);
• Cement or polymer grout and water-repellent impregnation for seams;
• Silicone sealant. It will be needed to process joints, internal and external corners;
• Crosses for tile joints or tile leveling system (SVP).

Since non-frost-resistant ceramics are mainly used for interior work, manufacturers recommend installation at a room temperature of at least +5 °C and no more than +30 °C with a humidity of 40-60%. Exterior decoration, including cladding of facades and steps, is carried out only in the warm season.

Step by step instructions

From quality installation work The service life and ease of use of floor ceramics depend. This axiom, unfortunately, is often neglected, and the result is a fragile, unaesthetic or defective coating. Therefore, we recommend that you follow all the rules, from preparing the base to the curing period of the grout.

The process can be divided into 6 stages:

Preparing the base

The quality of the subfloor should ensure the possibility of creating a layer under a tile covering made of adhesive cement mortar with a thickness of 2-15 mm, and under a mosaic – up to 20 mm. Therefore, the following actions are necessary:

There must be a basis;

Before the start of work, pipelines and other types of communications laid in the ceilings must have outlets in accordance with the design of the room. Don't forget that on large areas a uniform arrangement of expansion joints is necessary to compensate for temperature and hygroscopic deformations of the base. When laying tiles on concrete or mineral screed indoors, it is recommended to install thermal gaps every 20-25 m² of area, with external cladding– 16 m².

IN small spaces The role of temperature-shrinkage joints is played by a gap of 4-5 mm wide around the perimeter between the ceramic coating and the walls.

Let us remind you once again that the floor must be monolithic. Many craftsmen believe that unevenness is easily leveled tile adhesive- the layer will be thicker than expected. However, they forget that the cement-polymer mortar shrinks, so a perfectly even coating will not work. All recesses, cracks and bumps larger than 5 mm must be eliminated - filled repair mixtures or chip away, and remove dust and debris. Treat the surface with primers with the required properties - strengthening, adhesive, etc.

Applying a primer to a concrete base.

If you are thinking of laying tiles in a shower, bathroom or toilet, Special attention pay attention to waterproofing. To create a reliable water barrier, you can use polymer paints, coating penetrating agents, impregnations, membranes or any other material available to you. The main thing is to form a layer correctly, extending onto the walls 10-15 cm in height and carefully sealing the corners.

Marking

When marking, the center lines of the room serve as the basis. Connect the midpoints of the closer walls to obtain the longitudinal axis, and the center points of the farther ones to calculate the transverse line. Make marks on the walls for the level of the future finished floor. This will help correct minor flaws during the tile laying process. It is better to apply the marking drawing with an alcohol marker or using a paint cord.

First, check the correct geometry of the room. This will allow you to adjust the cladding plan ceramic tiles floor and significantly speed up work.

To make sure that the walls are mutually perpendicular, pull two cords diagonally from opposite corners and measure their length with a tape measure. If the angles do not correspond to the ideal 90°, and the sides have different lengths, then you can use various tricks to visually level the effect. For example, move the pattern or lay friezes around the perimeter, and between it and the wall - background tiles with trim.

The principle of marking formation depends on the chosen design.

Standard seam-to-seam or corner installation

If the room is level rectangular shape, then laying begins from the corner. The first element is mounted in the corner of the room, the rest - in different directions from it.

Corner laying pattern.

In a run-up or with a shift

For tiles produced in the form of elongated planks, it is incorrect to use the simple corner method. Installation should be done from the center of the room. The method is quite labor-intensive and requires care and precision in work.

First, the reference point (central) is calculated, the first row is laid from it, then subsequent lines are formed as shown in the figure below.

Laying pattern with offset or from the center.

Scheme of laying tiles of different calibers from the center.

The displacement coefficient of each subsequent row relative to the previous one depends on your desire - by 1/2, 1/3 or more. Since this is not a laminate or parquet board, no stitching is required here. It's more likely decorative effect, allowing you to create a deck flooring, brick or typical for laminate.

Along two perpendicular rows

To lay tiles in a room with irregular wall geometry (including various projections, bay windows, etc.), this method is used. We mark the center of the room and install the first element from it. In relation to this cladding, we draw two perpendicular central lines, along which we lay the floor covering up to the wall. From the finished rows we lay the remaining ceramics. This is very convenient for creating panels and various decorative or accent inserts.

Diagonally

In addition to the finished center lines, you also need to draw diagonal ones from opposite corners. The layout is carried out either from the center or from the far corner of the room. The pattern can be anything.

Scheme diagonal laying tiles

After the necessary marking lines have been drawn, lay the ceramics on a dry floor surface. This is necessary for an accurate fit. general scheme laying out, as well as cutting edge tiles or shaped elements with a tile cutter (including for forming shaped cutouts for various plumbing fixtures, water supply pipes and other communications).

The instructional and technological map for facing work, developed back in 1973 and updated in 2003 by the Design and Technological Institute of Industrial Construction, recommends craftsmen to make landmarks for themselves over large areas: either from a mooring cord stretched between the extreme support points (for example , along a long wall or diagonally) or install so-called lighthouse tiles. These are single ceramic elements or a series of claddings laid along an extended surface, which allow you to control the level of finish and the correct formation of the stripes.

Preparing the adhesive mixture

The solution must be perfectly homogeneous and fluid enough so that it can be easily applied to the surface and distributed. The dry mixture is mixed with water in the proportion recommended by the manufacturer, thoroughly mixed with a mixer until a homogeneous mass without lumps is formed. Remember that ready-made glue can be used for a certain time (20-60 minutes), so for large laying areas it is better to prepare the solution in portions.

Elastic polymer mixtures for ceramics come in one- and two-component types. They should be mixed thoroughly before use and should be applied with a notched trowel.

Installation of the cladding begins from a reference point located in the corner farthest from the entrance, or from the center of the room. It is recommended to finish the floor in strips or small squares, gradually moving towards the doorway. If the design assumes the presence of a frieze and panels, then installation should begin with decorative elements.

Laying from the corner and from the center of the room.

Some types of tiles with a highly porous structure are recommended to be soaked before use. This is done so that the ceramics do not “pull” moisture from the solution before it polymerizes. But most of products on the market do not require such an operation, so before starting work, carefully study the information on the packaging.

If you are laying floor finishing material with a thickness of more than 12 mm or with a side of more than 50 cm, then carefully follow the manufacturers’ recommendations. The adhesive solution must be applied not only to the base, but also to the back surface of the tile with pre-wetting.

Can't be stacked ceramic cladding on the floor with the heating switched on or with the room heating system running. It should be turned on only after the adhesive solution has completely “set.”

Apply the adhesive mixture to the base with a spatula with an average thickness of 2-5 mm (polymer - in a layer of 2-3 mm) and spread over a surface of 1 m² or in an amount covering one row. Next, lay out the tiles in accordance with the chosen pattern, align them, lightly tap them with a mallet or press them down with your fingers. Clean the seams from excess glue and insert spacer crosses or SVP. Next, apply glue to the surface as needed and install the cladding, periodically checking the evenness with a hydraulic level, as well as the geometric correctness of the installation - horizontal, pattern, installation pattern.

Applying adhesive mixture to the floor and installing tiles.

If required according to the plan, at the end mount a wall plinth from border elements or cut tiles of the main background using dividing crosses.

Grouting joints

Filling gaps can only be done after the covering has been completely laid and adhesive composition hardened. As a rule, 24 hours is enough.

Dry cement grout seal with water in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, apply with a spatula and fill all joints without exception. After 15-30 minutes, remove the remaining color mixture with a damp sponge. After an hour, rinse the surface again wet cloth, and the next day treat the seams with water-repellent impregnations.

Cleaning the coating

A ceramic-tiled floor after finishing the troweling work has a whitish coating, which must be removed with a solution of special acid-based ceramic detergents (Pramol Ceracid, Pufas Glutoclean acidic, Italon A-CID), then rinsed clean water before complete removal all foreign liquids and dirt. In the future, it is recommended to use neutral detergents or a weak soap solution, and to remove stains or heavy pollution purchase professional concentrates that do not damage the surface and do not leave streaks (Litokol Colored Stain Remover, Bellinzoni Mangia Macchia, etc.).

Do not use abrasive cleaners, which may cause scratches, especially on polished, lapped or high-gloss ceramic surfaces.

You can load the finished coating with furniture and other household items within 48-72 hours.

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Laying tiles with your own hands is not an easy task, but it is quite doable. If you cannot afford to pay the cost of these works, but a beautiful bathroom and kitchen do not leave your dreams, then the right approach you can do everything yourself.

If you take into account all our advice, practice, you will definitely get good at it, and you will never be interested in the cost of laying tiles. You yourself can transform your room with the help of this practical, durable, beautiful material.

We calculate the required amount of material

So, for this stage you will need: a level (plumb), a tape measure, paper and a pen. Calculations must be carried out very carefully.

The intended location of the tiles, be it a wall or a floor, is measured horizontally and vertically. According to the result obtained and the estimated size of the tile, the required number of tiles is calculated. Special attention should be paid to the corners. If the corners are crooked, you will additionally need several partial tiles to avoid gaps.

Next, you need to sketch out the layout of the tiles and choose the type of cladding. Possible options for laying tiles are: diagonal laying, “joint to joint” and laying in a run. At this stage, you also need to decide on the presence and required number of decorative elements: friezes, borders, slabs with patterns.

In order not to be mistaken in the quantity of tiles purchased, you can draw up a mini-diagram on paper on an appropriate scale, which will clearly indicate the location of both the tiles themselves and the decor. After this, you can only begin to purchase and lay tiles, the price of which is often quite high. So it should work important rule: “Measure seven times, and cut once!”

Laying tiles on the floor

The tiles are laid only on a perfectly flat floor surface. Therefore, if the differences are impressive, you should think about floor screed. All types of screeds are suitable for tiles. On top of gypsum fiber sheets with a dry screed, the tiles are glued with Fliesenkleber glue. Once all preparatory work has been completed, installation can begin.

According to the rules for laying tiles on the floor, we first determine the pattern. To do this, we lay out two cross rows along the longitudinal and transverse axis. And special plastic crosses inserted between the tiles will help control the thickness of the seam.

Exist different ways laying tiles.

Traditional

Diagonally

With offset (staggered)

Herringbone

Herringbone with attachment

Modular grid

Depending on what you choose, the first row of tiles is laid. When using the direct (traditional) method in large rooms, installation begins from the middle, and in small rooms - from the second row.

When using diagonal laying, the frieze is first marked, then whole tiles are laid around the perimeter, then cut tiles are laid, and then the frieze is laid. After laying the first trial row, be sure to check its flatness using a level.

Special attention should be paid to the corners. Since the tiles may not be concave in the same way, the corners may protrude, therefore, to avoid unevenness of the floor, the tiles must be set slightly below level. Be sure to ensure that the seams in perpendicular directions match.

Using a level and a corner, we lay the lighthouse tiles. If the floor is uneven, they are installed at the highest point. Next, mortar or glue is applied to the place where the tiles will lie, the tiles are placed on top and carefully tapped with a rubber hammer. Afterwards, you can fill the remaining space in rows, periodically monitoring the level of tile laying.

The tiles are perfectly attached to the floor using:

• cement mortar;
• glue;
• cement mortar diluted with plasticizers;
• bitumen mastic.

Laying tiles on the wall

Laying methods

Laying tiles on the wall can be done in three ways: traditional “joint to joint”, in a checkerboard pattern (“interlinked”) or diagonally.

In the first case, you need to constantly monitor the coincidence of the vertical and horizontal seams, and also measure the tiles by size.

When using “banded” cladding, the middle of the tile from the top row is located above the joint of the tiles from the bottom row. Installation using this method is greatly simplified, because... There is no need to constantly monitor the matching sizes of the tiles.

Diagonal laying can be seen more often in large rooms. The method is considered quite labor-intensive and complex, so if you decide to use the services of specialists, the prices for laying tiles may not please you. The main points that you need to pay attention to are the perpendicularity of the seams and the correct abutment of the tiles to the walls.

Surface preparation

First, possible deviations of the surface from the axes are checked: horizontally for the floor and vertically for the walls. The maximum permissible percentage of deviation is 0.2%, i.e. it should not exceed 2 mm per meter of length.

Using a plumb line or level, we check the vertical deviation for the walls. If installed correctly, the plumb line error will be smaller. It is best to hang the plumb line on nails specially driven into the corners of the room. Using a long ruler, the deviation is checked over the entire height and width.

A flat surface is the key to success. Possible gaps become immediately visible if you apply flat timber or level. If there are large recesses, they must be carefully filled with putty. Small gaps up to 2 mm can be left unchanged.

Now, tapping the surface, we test it for strength. The presence of a bubbling sound indicates a loose fit of the layer. In this case, the surface is cleaned until brickwork or concrete. During tapping, sand shedding is also possible: such a layer is removed or strengthened using specially designed means.

Technology for laying tiles on wooden surface involves the use of roofing material and metal mesh. Slats and roofing felt are placed on the wall, and a mesh is attached. It is plastered on top with a 15 mm layer of mortar, after which the tile dries.

In the figure: 1 - stuffed bars, 2 - wooden base, 3 - roofing felt or roofing felt, 4 - mesh, 5 - cement plaster, 6 - tile

Grease stains, dirt, residues soap solution, paint - none of this should be on the prepared surface, otherwise the tile will not stick firmly enough. Painted walls are particularly troublesome. Removing paint is a rather labor-intensive process, but with the help of a hammer drill with a spatula or a cutting machine with a card brush, it can be significantly simplified and speeded up. The tile will adhere better if the surface is primed.

Laying technology

The technology for laying tiles on the wall involves pre-layout lighthouse tiles. To install the beacons evenly, pull the thread, which lags behind the surface by 5 mm. They are guided by it when installing beacons and leveling the plane. In this case, the vertical and horizontal parameters must be monitored. It is best to use alabaster for installation, because... it hardens instantly, and after laying the row, it is quickly and easily cleaned from the lighthouse tiles, which are already installed on a permanent base.

The wall begins to be covered from the center of the wall towards the corner. The center of the wall must be marked by drawing a pencil vertically to the floor. From this place they begin laying. If, in a checkerboard pattern in the first row, the center line runs along the junction of two tiles, then in the second row it will be on a whole tile.

Now we mark the rows horizontally and carefully lay the tiles, starting from the very bottom. If you are sure that the floors are level, then the tiles can be installed directly on them.

If during the installation process you notice that you have deviated from a straight line, the already laid tile can be slightly raised. This is done using wedges that are tapped under the tiles.

The tiles can also be installed on a screwed rail, in the corners of which plumb slats with an attached cord are placed. All this is done in order to lay the tiles evenly both horizontally and vertically. After the tiles are laid, all fixtures are removed and the voids are filled with mortar.

We carry out installation directly as follows: on reverse side tiles, using a trowel, apply a solution (cement, glue), distribute it with a comb, press it tightly to the surface, and tap it. To do this, use a rubber hammer. The level of the tile should coincide with the level of the previously stretched rope. The entire space between the tile and the wall must be filled with mortar, otherwise adhesion will decrease over time and the tile may fall off. The applied layer of solution should be from 7 to 15 mm. The remaining mortar that appears on the seams is removed with a trowel.

We insert special crosses between the tiles, which will allow you to control the thickness of the seam. After the installation process is completed, carefully clean the seams from any remaining mortar and dust, and remove the crosses.

Cutting tiles

In some cases, if the size of the room requires it, you need to cut the tiles. For floor ones, a tile cutter is used, for wall ones, a roller glass cutter or carbide cutter is used.

Before cutting, the tiles are marked. Then a cutter is drawn along the attached metal ruler with pressure, after which the tile itself is broken, placing it under it. wooden block, or special forceps.

Grouting joints

The last stage is grouting the joints. Their width for tiles whose size is 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 60 cm should be on average 3 mm. The surface will look more aesthetically pleasing if colored grout is applied to the seams. But even ordinary white grout will give a wall with tiles a neat and finished look.

The grout is applied either with a special scraper, grater, or using a bag with a nozzle, reminiscent of a pastry shop. After application, the grout is spread evenly to fill all the seams. Then the dry excess is removed with a grater, and the seams are treated with a sponge soaked in water.

If the tiles are glazed, then grouting can be done immediately after the mortar has dried. If the tile is matte, then before grouting it is moistened with a sprayer.

Used for grouting cement mixture or epoxy resin. Unglazed tiles additionally treated with sealant. This will prevent stains from appearing both on the tile itself and in the seams.

A master class on laying tiles (video) is easy to find on the Internet. Are you now wondering how much it costs to lay tiles? We are sure you can do everything yourself!

There is nothing complicated in such a process as the technology of laying tiles on a wall; there are simply a couple of subtleties that every novice master should know. That's exactly what we'll talk about.

Tiling the bathroom

Surface preparation

Tools for preparatory work:

• Chisel;
• Hammer (for removing tiles);
• Sponge (for removing wallpaper);
• Primer;
• Brush;
• Beam;
• Nozzle – whisk;
• Glue container;
• Glue mixture;
• Level.

In order to begin the main stage of work, you should take care of intermediate, preparatory matters, which are also included in the technology of laying ceramic tiles on the wall.

To do this, you must first remove all the old finishing, be it wallpaper, panels, etc.

Regarding the tiles: be sure to remove all trim from the wall! There are tips on the Internet that say that you can beat off the top coating, and then the technology of the wall will not be damaged, however this recommendation relevant ONLY for floors.

When installing, be sure to use crosses

What needs to be determined is the magnitude of these particular shortcomings. If they are more than 1 cm, then you should start leveling the walls, since otherwise the adjustment will be due to a greater application of the mixture.

So, if the wall is more or less even, . These actions, in principle, are not mandatory, but are still recommended, since as a result you will improve the adhesion between the mortar and the wall, which will automatically increase the quality of the masonry.

While the primed wall dries, you can attach the beam to the wall, since the technology of laying tiles on the wall is based mainly not on the floor line, which may be uneven, but on the beam, which, of course, is installed at the level of the second tile from the bottom.

Now that preparatory work, included in the technology of laying ceramic tiles on the wall, are completed, we can knead the adhesive mixture.

It is best, of course, to use a special attachment - a mixer, because you still won’t be able to mix the mixture uniformly by hand.

Laying tiles

Installation of tiles on the wall

To lay tiles on walls you need to prepare the following tools:

• Master OK;
• Notched trowel;
• Level;
• Rubber hammer;
• The tile itself;
• Plastic limiters - crosses.

Proper technology for laying ceramic tiles on a wall involves applying the mixture to the wall, and not to the tile.

It is allowed to apply glue to the tiles only if the wall has unevenness, which you can correct with more mixture.

So, apply the mixture to the wall (on a part, about two rows of tiles; of course, you shouldn’t cover the entire surface), level it with a notched trowel and take hold of the tile.

They put it against the wall and pressed. However, try to do this without excessive enthusiasm; don’t put too much pressure.

The correct technology for laying tiles on a wall involves constantly using a level to correct the installation of the tiles themselves. To do this, as soon as you lay the tiles on the wall, take the above tool in your hands and check the resulting surface for horizontalness. If the edge protrudes, you need to gently tap it with a rubber mallet, but if the tile is “recessed,” you need to dismantle it and reinstall it.

So, moving behind the tiles, you lay out 2-3 rows. Now stop and take a breather. It is needed to give the solution time to set, because otherwise the laying of tiles on the wall may simply not withstand the pressure of the upper rows and collapse.

To regulate the thickness of the seams, be sure to use special regulators when laying ceramic tiles, only then will the seams be even and even.

While you are waiting for the setting time of the solution indicated on the packaging according to the technology of laying ceramic tiles on the wall, it makes sense to start trimming the tiles.

Cutting tiles at home

Ceramic tiles can be cut using several tools:

• Manual tile cutter;
• Electric tile cutter;
• Glass cutter;
• Bulgarian;
• Wire cutters.

Most best option for you – a manual tile cutter. The electric analogue is in no way worse, even better, but its cost is one level higher.

A glass cutter and nippers are also a good choice, however, unfortunately, not every tile can now be cut with a glass cutter, since the quality of the material is sometimes much better than you expect.

But the grinder is a rather complex tool, and even dangerous, which is why it is not advisable for you to get involved with it if you do not know how to use it.

It is recommended to cut tiles for walls and floors during the process of laying ceramic tiles, since often craftsmen do not take into account that there will definitely be seams during laying, and as a result, the tiles have to be cut, and it will be much more difficult to carefully cut the tiles into a small piece, believe me .

The final stage included in the technology of laying tiles on the wall is grouting the joints.

Grouting tile joints

You will need the following materials:

• Fugue;
• Dilution container;
• Rubber spatula;
• A piece of cable for jointing;
• Water;
• Sponge.

There is nothing complicated in grouting tiles, you just need to remember that you should start this process only at least a day after laying it on the floor, walls or any other surface.

Important! Dilute the mixture in small portions, you should not dilute the entire package at once, the solution sets quickly enough, and it will not be possible to use it half-frozen and with lumps.

Fugue is applied to the seams rubber spatula, carefully embroidered with a suitable piece of cable. We have a number of materials that will definitely help you understand this in more detail.

So, in principle, that’s all you need to clearly understand the technology of laying tiles on the wall, and we’re sure you’ve figured out this issue!