Construction of a boiler room. Boiler room in a private house: necessary equipment and photographs of projects

Boiler room in a private house - how to equip it, diagram, calculation and operation,

A boiler room is a necessity in a private home, it’s hard to argue with that. In this article, the best construction journalists in Russia will talk about how to equip a boiler room, provide calculations and diagrams of its equipment.

Boilers for home and private boiler rooms

When should you choose a single-circuit boiler?

The main task of a single-circuit boiler is to heat the building, but if necessary, it can heat water for the hot water system, heated floors, a swimming pool, etc. To provide the house with hot water, such units need to be supplemented with special equipment. Most often, this is a free-standing storage tank (boiler) fixed under the boiler or on the wall, filled with water, which is heated using coolant from the boiler.

It makes sense to choose a single-circuit boiler equipped with a boiler, especially when the house has a high need for high-temperature hot water (the volume of a free-standing boiler for private houses is usually 100-260 liters).

You can also install several storage tanks at once. However, due to the need for additional equipment, a system with a single-circuit boiler is noticeably more expensive than a double-circuit heat generator. A free-standing boiler takes up quite a lot of space in the room. In addition, a single-circuit boiler cannot be called an economical solution, since it will turn on regularly (consuming gas and electricity) in order to maintain the set water temperature in the storage tank even when hot water is not used.

Is it true that double-circuit boilers are more economical?

Double-circuit heat generators are initially designed both for heating a building and for preparing hot water, the heating of which occurs due to a flow-through heat exchanger located inside the unit (plate, bithermic, etc.). Such a boiler cannot operate both for heating and DHW at the same time, so it usually provides DHW priority. That is, the moment the hot water tap is opened, the boiler switches to heating it. There is no need to be afraid that stopping heating of the coolant for the heating system will lead to the cooling of the house in winter.

Modern buildings, especially those built with effective thermal insulation, cool down very slowly. However, with active use of hot water, the rooms can cool to an uncomfortable temperature. The advantage of double-circuit boilers is their compactness and low price compared to single-circuit heat generators equipped with boilers. In addition, water for domestic hot water is heated directly in the boiler and only at the time when it is needed, that is, such a heat generator is truly economical.

The main disadvantage of such units is the inability to obtain in flow mode large quantity hot water: maximum 9-15 l/min. depending on the boiler power. This is enough to take a shower. However, if during bathing procedures a hot water tap is opened in another place, the temperature of the water in the shower may decrease. Thus, a double-circuit boiler is suitable for a cottage with a small number of residents or for a house where there will be few simultaneously used water points.

To the disadvantages of the boiler of this type It is also worth mentioning that the inhabitants of the house have to wait several seconds before hot water comes out of an open tap. Waiting time depends on various factors, including the diameter of the pipes and the distance of the water collection point from the heat generator. To compensate for these shortcomings, manufacturers offer double-circuit boilers, the casing of which contains small boilers (volume 20-50 liters for wall-mounted models) that provide a supply of hot water. But even in this case, there may be some delay in its supply. In addition, the boiler will have to constantly maintain the water temperature in such a boiler, which will lead to increased gas and electricity consumption.

When is it better to choose a wall-mounted boiler, and when to choose a floor-standing boiler?

The range of rated power of modern wall-mounted boilers for private homes is very wide - usually from 12 to 60 kW. Their main advantages compared to floor-mounted ones of the same power are smaller dimensions and the ability to eliminate the need for a boiler room, which is important for small-sized cottages. According to SNiP 41 -01 -2003 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”, heat generators with a power of up to 35 kW can be installed in kitchens and corridors. Moreover, the space under wall-mounted boiler can be used rationally. In addition, such models are relatively lightweight (since the material of their heat exchangers is copper or Aluminium alloy), which usually makes it easy to mount the device on the wall.

Thus, a 24 kW boiler weighs approximately 25-30 kg. If it is necessary to heat a building of a large area, it makes sense to use high-power floor-standing boilers. Let us add that they have cast iron heat exchangers, which have a very long service life. However, floor-standing units not only require the installation of a boiler room, but also take up a lot of space in it, since there must be free space around the perimeter of the heat generator (which is more massive than a wall-mounted one of the same power) for its maintenance. In addition, unlike wall-mounted, floor-standing boilers are usually sold incompletely (you need to additionally purchase a pump, etc.).

When purchasing a boiler, is it possible to choose the type of burner?

Structurally, burners are divided into atmospheric and fan (pressurized). In devices of the first type, gas is supplied due to the pressure generated in the main gas network. These burners do not have a fan, so

they are practically silent (only the burning of the flame can be heard) and are significantly cheaper than supercharged ones. In addition, boilers with atmospheric burners can operate on both main and liquefied gas (switching from one type of fuel to another will require replacing nozzles and reconfiguring gas equipment).

Burners of the second type forcefully mix gas with air using an electric fan, thereby providing a more stable fuel combustion mode. But such devices are expensive in themselves and more expensive to operate. In addition, they make more noise than atmospheric ones, so boilers equipped with them are placed in a separate room or covered with a special sound-absorbing casing. In essence, the consumer can choose not the type of burner for the boiler, but the type of boiler.

The fact is that there are atmospheric heat generators: they have the appropriate burners installed at the factory, which cannot be replaced with fan burners. Such boilers operate only on gas. At the same time, there are heat generators that can operate on both gas and liquid fuel (diesel fuel). They are equipped only with fan burners. Note that a heat generator with a forced-air burner requires a smoke channel of smaller diameter than an atmospheric boiler of the same power. This is an important argument for those customers who purchase a boiler in a situation where a boiler room with a chimney of a certain cross-section has already been built.

Is it possible to independently calculate the boiler power for a cottage?

You can get an idea of ​​the approximate power based on the area of ​​the house: heating 1 m2 requires about 0.1 kW. However, this figure is very approximate. To accurately determine required power, needed thermotechnical calculation, which takes into account not only the area of ​​the building, but also the climatic zone where construction is taking place, as well as all possible heat losses (through walls, windows, ceilings, etc.). In addition, one should proceed from the need for DHW (in this case, the boiler power should be such that the boiler provides both DHW and heating in full at peak loads). You also need to decide on other intended heat consumers - a swimming pool, forced-air ventilation, separate buildings (guest houses, bathhouses, greenhouses, etc.).

Is the high cost of condensing boilers justified?

To heat water, conventional boilers use only the heat obtained during the combustion of fuel. Condensing boilers They also use additional heat, which they “take away” from flue gases due to the condensation of the water vapor contained in them in a special heat exchanger. Units of this type are much more expensive than classic heat generators, but they can significantly reduce electricity and gas consumption. In addition, they are equipped with special flameless burners that produce infrared radiation, thanks to which the fuel burns completely, which means the amount of harmful emissions into the atmosphere is reduced.

The temperature of the flue gases leaving the boiler is quite low (often below 40 °C), so they can be removed using plastic chimneys, which is an inexpensive and easy-to-implement solution. At the same time, there are many nuances in the operation of condensing boilers. Thus, to achieve high efficiency, it is necessary that the unit heats the coolant to 50 °C (that is, to a lower temperature than in standard systems heating).

Consequently, the reduction in gas consumption for such a boiler will mostly occur in the off-season, when it is possible to heat the premises using heated floors (which require a coolant with a temperature of 50 ° C). According to many experts, in winter, in a heating situation using radiators, the boiler will inevitably heat the coolant to a higher temperature than needed for condensation mode, and it will not be possible to save gas: the boiler will operate with the same efficiency as a classic unit.

In addition, a single-circuit heat generator, supplemented by a boiler, will have to heat the coolant to higher temperatures every time the house needs hot water with a temperature of 50 ° C for the domestic hot water system. When using condensing boilers, the radiator area must be larger than in the standard case. Another nuance is that it is necessary to remove condensate, which has high acidity, from the boiler.

Where should the boiler chimney be located?

The chimney can be brought outside in two ways - through the roof or through the building’s enclosing wall (if there is one in the boiler room), then attaching it to the facade. Note that the diameter of the smoke channel is determined by the diameter of the pipe in the boiler (the diameter is determined by the power of the heat generator and constructive solutions manufacturer). In this regard, difficulties may arise when installing a chimney passing through the premises.

After all, a shaft for it is built at the initial stage of building a house, but as construction progresses, additional loads often appear that require the installation of a more powerful boiler, which requires a chimney of a larger diameter than is permissible for use in an already made shaft. If you purchase such a boiler and connect it to a chimney with a smaller diameter than necessary, then there is a high probability that the gas supply organization will refuse to connect the cottage to the gas pipeline, since the chimney will not provide the necessary draft and the boiler will not be able to operate in normal mode. Therefore, even at the design stage of the building, it is necessary to finally decide on the boiler model and know what the diameter of its smoke channel will be.

Finishing a private boiler room inside the house

What and how can you decorate the boiler room from the inside?

According to current standards, the boiler room must be separated from adjacent rooms by walls made of non-combustible materials. Enclosing structures made of brick or concrete are usually plastered and painted. Can serve as additional finishing ceramic tile or metal panels. It is impossible to leave mineral surfaces in their original form - they will inevitably become dusty, which has an extremely bad effect on the operation of the boiler. If the walls are wooden, they can be impregnated with a fire retardant compound, covered with reflective thermal insulation, and then sheathed with GKLO (fire-resistant plasterboard).

The floor must be leveled using cement-sand screed. It is very important to protect the boiler room equipment from leakage by organizing drain. If this is not possible for some reason, before finishing, around the entire perimeter of the room, to a height of approximately 5-10 cm (depending on the size of the boiler room and the amount of water in the heating system), you need to lay waterproofing, roll or coating, to ensure waterproofness and tightness . In this case, the boiler should be placed on a pedestal so that the device does not come into contact with water. It is recommended to use ceramic or porcelain tiles as the final floor covering. As for the top floor, it is usually simply painted.

When should you choose a coaxial chimney?

A coaxial chimney is a “pipe within a pipe.” Exhaust gases are removed from the furnace through the inner pipe due to a fan, and air is sucked in through the outer pipe to burn the fuel. Such chimneys are only suitable for heat generators with a closed combustion chamber. The main advantage of a coaxial chimney is the ability to route it horizontally through an external wall, and the length of the pipe can be only 1-3 m.

Thus, the customer saves significantly on the construction of the chimney system. However, according to a number of experts, such a chimney has disadvantages. In particular, flue gases can be directed towards the facade of the building, which will damage it appearance and cause destruction of the finish, as well as create inconvenience to the inhabitants of the house if gases penetrate into the premises through open windows. A coaxial chimney discharged vertically (through the roof) is free from these disadvantages. But it is much more expensive than usual.

Does the boiler room need ventilation?

One of the most important requirements for a boiler room is the presence of ventilation in the amount of 3 air exchanges. This will allow gas to be removed if there is a slight leak. In addition, if the boiler is not equipped coaxial chimney, ventilation will provide it with the air necessary for fuel combustion. Usually satisfied natural ventilation with an opening for air flow in the form of a louvered grille. It is installed in the door leading from a separate boiler room to the street, or, in the case of in-house boiler rooms, in external wall. Air exhaust is carried out using a metal ventilation duct (the use of plastic ducts is unacceptable). The diameter of the louvre grille and ventilation duct is determined by calculation (the inflow should be in the volume of the hood plus the amount of air for gas combustion).

Diagram of the heating and hot water system of a cottage with a boiler room organized in ground floor or basement

The “piping” includes a variety of components and parts that can be divided into boiler fittings (1) gas line elements (2) radiator heating and underfloor heating control unit (3). as well as elements of the cold and hot water supply system (4) For piping the boiler room, only the highest quality fittings and units should be used. Otherwise, the main equipment may not work correctly or even fail prematurely

What are the requirements for a kitchen when installing a boiler in it?

Boilers can be installed in the kitchen with a heating unit power of up to 35 kW inclusive, regardless of availability gas stove and a gas water heater. The volume of the kitchen space is regulated by the standards given in the table. There are other requirements for a kitchen where a gas boiler is installed. So, the ceiling height must be at least 2.5 m. A window with a window opening outward is required. For ventilation, the inflow must be equal to the exhaust volume plus the amount of air for gas combustion.

It is important to consider that a 30% power reserve will only be sufficient if the hood is located directly above the boiler. In other cases, you should add another 15% for each turn of the air duct pipe and another 10% for each meter of air duct. The ventilation duct must be brought to a height chimney. For air flow, it is necessary to provide a grille or gap with an area of ​​at least 0.025 m2 at the bottom of the door to the adjacent room.

The boiler is installed on a wall made of non-flammable material, while a special fastening system provides a gap of at least 10 cm between them. In addition, it is allowed to mount the boiler on plastered walls and walls with non-combustible or low-flammable cladding, provided that the specified gap is observed, as well as the wall surface is insulated with a screen made of roofing steel sheet over an asbestos sheet thickness of at least 3 mm. The screen should protrude beyond the equipment body by 10 cm from the bottom and sides and 70 cm from the top.

It should be emphasized that the instructions for the boiler always indicate installation data, which may differ slightly from those given in regulatory documents. In this case, it would be wiser to rely not on generalized figures from SNiPs, but on figures from the manufacturer.

Calculation of power M hood

M = (SxHxn) + 30%

where: S – kitchen area, m2; H – kitchen ceiling height, m; n>3 – air exchange rate (according to SES standards) in the kitchen where the gas boiler is located; 30% is the minimum power reserve required for effective cleaning air.

The volume of the kitchen space depending on the power of the installed boiler

Total thermal power heating gas equipment, kW

Room volume, m 3

Up to 30

7,5

From 30 to 60

13.5

From 60 to 200

Based on the conditions of placement and operation of gas equipment, but not less than 15

Boiler room operation

How to protect a boiler room from fire?

The basic fire safety requirements for a boiler room are formulated in SNiP 41-01-2003 ‘Heating, ventilation and air conditioning’ and in MDS 41-2.2000 ‘Instructions for the placement of thermal units intended for heating and hot water supply of single-family or semi-detached residential buildings’. Here are some important points.

If the boiler house building is isolated, it must be located at the blank part of the wall of the main house at a horizontal distance from window and door openings of at least 1 m. The structure cannot be connected to the wall of a residential building. The enclosing walls and structures of the boiler room must have a fire resistance limit of 0.75 hours, and the limit of fire spread through them must be zero. The permissible ceiling height is from 2.5 m. It is necessary to provide glazing in the boiler room at the rate of 0.03 m2 per 1 m3 of its volume. The structure must have a door leading directly to the outside. A second exit to the utility room is possible, but the door there should be made fireproof, of the third type.

Boiler room piping

Why does a boiler room need piping?

To supply coolant from the boiler to the heating system, and water from the water heater to DHW system, it is necessary to ensure the safety of flow of heated liquids under pressure. For this purpose, hot water and expansion tank and, circulation pumps, thermometers, pressure gauges and other sensors are connected by shut-off and distribution and safety valves and entangled in a network of pipes. With a heating area of ​​up to 80 m2, the boiler (most often a double-circuit wall-mounted type) can be installed in the kitchen or bathroom, and in a more spacious home it is more convenient to allocate a special room, for example, in the basement or create a boiler room (furnace room) on the ground floor with its own entrance, or even in a separate building, where all the equipment is assembled - the so-called harness. Exist certain rules layout: thus, the gas boiler must be equipped with a pressure gauge, thermometer, fuse, emergency thermostat and safety sensors, and connected to the gas main only using a metal pipe. If these requirements are not met, the gas simply will not be connected. Before installation begins, you need to make electrical wiring, entering the house from the main gas pipe and extend it to the boiler, as well as install water supply and sewerage.

Why is modular piping of a boiler room convenient?

Modular construction has only recently begun to be used. It is like the skeleton of a boiler room, since it usually contains elements of a safety group, thermometers, a circulation pump, three-way valve and other fittings, ready for quick installation in the boiler room. Such a module simply needs to be connected to the boiler and to the heating and hot water system circuits. In itself, it is optional, all elements can be assembled separately, but its use greatly simplifies the installation of the system, and most importantly, it eliminates concerns about completeness, the diameter of the piping pipes and thread compatibility. The thermohydraulic module can be either imported or domestic, and manufacturers offer a whole line of models, each of which is designed for a certain range of thermal power and different quantities consumers. Each model comes with detailed instructions for self-assembly of the modular harness.

Is an expansion tank always needed?

The expansion tank is used to compensate for the increase in the volume of coolant or water during heating. An increase in the volume of liquid can create pressure that exceeds the strength limit of the seals in the places where the shut-off and distribution valves are attached, and, on the contrary, its decrease (with a decrease in temperature) can disrupt the circulation of the coolant. These phenomena will not occur when installing an expansion tank that collects excess liquid and compensates for its deficiency.

The volume of the tank is calculated as the difference in the increase in the volume of liquid with the maximum permissible change in its temperature in the system, taking into account the minimum hydrostatic and maximum permissible pressure values. There are three types of tanks - for coolant (usually red), for drinking water(blue) and for DHW (white). In a heating system with forced circulation use closed tanks, which are located either in the boiler body (wall-mounted) or in a convenient place around the boiler room, and with natural circulation - open (connected to the atmosphere), they are placed at the top point of the system. By the way, the latter have many disadvantages, so they are used less and less.

How is the safety of the equipment guaranteed?

Two groups of devices are used - for the boiler and for the water heater. The boiler safety group is a set of devices for measuring pressure, limiting it and removing air. Three main instruments - a pressure gauge, a safety valve and an air vent - are collected in one housing. There are boilers with a built-in safety group, but these are mostly double-circuit wall-mounted gas units. The safety group is often located above the top point of the boiler so that the air vent works correctly. From safety valve there should be a coolant or water recovery pipe that will flow out when the vent is activated. Any element can be replaced. An important safety requirement is the presence of a grounding circuit for the boiler. This is a condition for gas acceptance, and sometimes a practical necessity - many imported units simply do not start in the absence of grounding. The circuit must have a resistance of at least 10 Ohms, which is confirmed by the “Grounding Loop Certificate” gas boiler».

A water heater safety group is necessary to ensure that the pressure in it does not rise above the set value. Often a pressure relief valve is included with small heaters, but for a boiler or device with a volume of over 100 liters, a safety group is needed. It will prevent pressure build-up, prevent hot water from flowing back into the water supply, and is equipped with performance monitoring and protection tools. Also, for boilers with a volume of more than 80 liters, in addition to the safety group, the use of hydraulic accumulators for hot water supply is mandatory. Even if for some reason there is boiling water under pressure in the boiler, the maximum that will happen is that the membrane will burst, but even then the hot water will not leave the system. The water heater safety group is always installed at the entrance cold water in the direction indicated on the housing.

What are the benefits of a prepaid meter?

Installation of a gas meter is mandatory when using main gas; it is fixed in the project for gasification of a residential building and is carried out by a specialized organization when installing the gas pipeline entry into the building. The use of liquefied gas does not require the installation of a meter.

According to the principle of operation, there are diaphragm and membrane devices, and according to the type of payment - with a prepayment card and with a periodic payment for the volume of gas consumed. Money is pre-paid onto a prepaid card, then it is inserted into the meter, and as gas is consumed, the funds are debited. The controller controls the operation of such a device. When purchasing a meter of any type, you must know the nominal gas flow rate, for example 4 m3/hour and the diameter of the connecting thread (most often 1 '/L - The devices operate silently and are equipped with a blocker that prevents gas backflow. Temperature working environment should be in the range from -30 to +50 “C. Average term service life is 25 years, and the verification interval is 10 years.

What types of automation for floor-standing boilers are most popular?

The main types of automation are: thermostatic, electronic with constant boiler temperature, electronic with weather-dependent boiler temperature and electronic with weather-dependent control function radiator heating with support for mixers (we are talking about mixing taps regulating the coolant temperature in a separate heating circuit by mixing water from the boiler with water from the return line).

The simplest type of automation is thermostatic. In this case, turning the burner devices on and off is carried out by a thermostat installed in the boiler casing. When the temperature in the boiler reaches the set value, the contact is activated and the burner is switched off. Here, the possibilities of electronic control are minimal. This is the cheapest automation option, reliable, but low in energy costs.

The most effective is the last of the above modifications. The set of such automation also includes an outside temperature sensor, which is installed on the facade of the building on the north side. When setting up the controller, a temperature coefficient is determined that reflects the dependence of the temperature of the coolant in the heating circuit on changes in weather conditions outside, that is, the colder it is outside, the hotter the coolant in the heating system. To achieve thermal comfort in all rooms and maximum energy savings, additional thermostatic heads are installed on each radiator. The presence of two systems at once - weather-dependent automation and thermostatic heads on radiators - allows you to very accurately monitor and quickly adjust the temperature in all rooms. Thanks to this, overheating/underheating does not occur and fuel is saved. Many manufacturers offer remote control heating via computer or telephone.

Heating system

Heating - antifreeze instead of water: which one to choose

If you do not live in a house permanently in winter, as well as with frequent cases of a drop in gas pressure in the main pipe during the cold season, there is a danger of interruptions in heating. A prolonged lack of heating can lead to freezing of water in the pipes and failure of the entire heating system. Using a glycol solution (antifreeze) - ethylene or polypropylene - as a coolant will save the system from destruction. Not only does it freeze at a lower temperature than water, but it does not turn into ice, but turns into a jelly-like state. But its viscosity and temperature coefficient are higher than those of water, which should be taken into account when calculating the volume of the expansion tank and selecting the pump power, and the heat capacity is 15-20% lower, and this should be kept in mind when calculating the power of radiators. Steel pipes with zinc coating will not work, and when sealing joints with shut-off and control valves, not any seal will do. Of the two types of antifreeze, only polypropylene contains environmentally friendly additives, but it should still be changed every five years.

Is it possible to set the automatic boiler to live in the house?

For houses permanent residence experts recommend electronic automation with weather-dependent temperature double-circuit boiler and with faucet support function. In this case, you should select a boiler with a certain power reserve so as not to use boiler heating priority. What does it mean? When the boiler heats up, the heating system is turned off, and all the boiler power is used to heat it. As soon as the boiler warms up to set temperature, the heating turns on again. Is it convenient? No, because the owners live in the cottage permanently, and it is necessary for both the boiler and heating to work simultaneously, providing the necessary comfort. The way out of the situation is to increase the boiler power. For example, if a power of 30 kW is required to heat a house, and another 20 kW to heat a boiler (200-300 l), then you should choose a 50 kW unit. In a house where the owners come only on weekends, you can save on basic equipment and use a scheme with weather-dependent boiler temperature and a direct heating circuit. On weekdays there is no load on the boiler, so the boiler room only works for the heating system. The automation has the ability to set the air temperature in the room not only in the “day-night” mode, but also, for example, to support the “weekday-weekend” function. However, if we use a conventional gas boiler, then in the autumn-spring period, when it is 0...5 °C outside, overheating of the premises is likely, because the temperature of the coolant in the boiler cannot be lower than 45-55 °C (this is due to the condensation factor inside the boiler). In this case, the coolant is supplied to the heating system with a deliberately high temperature value, and the building can overheat by 5-6 * C. To avoid this, you need to either use a circuit with a mixer, but then the cost of automation will increase, or install a condensing boiler that can operate at low temperatures (by the way, such equipment works more economically at them than at high temperatures). If no one is watching your house on weekdays, then it makes sense to connect an SMS notification system about accidents.

Is it possible to have a heating system without electricity?

A heating system with natural circulation of coolant is used when the power supply is unstable, and the boiler should also not depend on electricity. Thus, in a gas electric-independent boiler, the temperature is manually regulated by the intensity of the gas supply to the burner. The main disadvantages of electrically independent systems are the lack of automation and the possibility of installing heated floors from such a system. The advantage is uninterrupted operation regardless of the presence of electricity in the house.

The electronic control board eliminates consumer participation in system maintenance. Automated installations provide protection for the boiler from freezing if it operates in energy saving mode. At a certain period of time, the boiler automatically turns on to warm up and the circulation pump starts.

Quite acceptable combined system heating: in it the boiler is electrically independent, but to increase the efficiency of the system, a circulation pump operating from the mains is used. When de-energized, efficiency drops sharply, since the coolant begins to move naturally - due to convection, and not forcefully. Applying power after troubleshooting will automatically turn on the circulation pump, and the original efficiency of the heating system will be restored.

1. Boiler with weather-sensitive control panel. 2. Street sensor. 3. Room thermostat. 4. Direct heating circuit. 5. Heating circuit 1 with mixer. 6. Heating circuit 2 with mixer 7. Remote access devices. 8. Supply manifold. 9. Return collector. 10. Make-up unit

How to choose suitable scheme heating?

There are three main heating schemes: single-pipe (a), two-pipe (6) and collector (c). In the first scheme, the heating devices in each riser and supply branch are connected by one pipe, and the coolant flows sequentially through all radiators. In the second, each device is separately connected to two pipes, supply and return, and the coolant flows through radiators independent of each other. The collector circuit is a type of two-pipe circuit. Its peculiarity is that all heating devices have a separate connection through the collector.

The advantage of single-pipe wiring is the relatively low price of installing a heating system, due to the smaller number of necessary pipes, fittings, etc. There are many more disadvantages. Connecting radiators in series does not allow you to regulate the heating intensity of one of them without consequences for the others, so it is impossible to achieve comfort with this heating option. In addition, if one of the radiators is damaged, repairing it will require turning off the entire system. The exception is the option single pipe system, in which each radiator has a shut-off valve and a jumper of smaller diameter than the inlet and outlet pipes, which allows heat to be transferred without loss to the last device.

It is increasingly being replaced by a two-pipe system (and its version - a collector). Although installation in this case requires a larger number of pipes and connecting elements(and therefore higher financial costs), but the advantages of the scheme outweigh this minus. Water, cooling as it passes through the radiator, does not enter another heating device, but goes to the boiler through the return pipeline. As a result, the water temperature at the inlet to each of the radiators corresponds to the calculated one, which allows the use of devices of the same size with the same energy requirements. Two-pipe systems make it possible to optimally regulate the temperature of devices using a thermostatic valve. From a design point of view, the two-pipe scheme also has advantages, since, as a rule, heating pipes are laid hidden, followed by embedding into the structure of the floor and walls.

Connection diagram combined heating to boiler equipment

1. Chimney
2. Outside temperature sensor
3. Shut-off valve
4. Circulation pump
5. Safety valve
6. Regulatory system
7. Boiler
8. Boiler room ventilation
9. Burner
10. Remote control unit
11. Automatic air vent
12. Underfloor heating piping circuit
13. Coolant temperature sensor
in the supply line after the mixing valve
14. Three-way mixing valve
15. Pressure gauge
16. Thermostatic valve
17. Expansion tank
18. Radiator

Making heating in a private house with your own hands is a difficult, but completely doable task. Self-installation allows you to save a significant amount of money. The main advantage of private heating is complete independence from utilities. You can regulate the temperature and turn off the boiler at any time of the year.

Water heating is the most popular. By installing a boiler, it is possible to heat the entire house, rather than individual rooms. The moderate surface temperature of pipes and radiators does not cause a specific odor when dust settles, unlike electric convectors.

The negative aspects include the labor intensity of the work and the high cost of the entire structure. It will be necessary to carry out preventive measures. Leaks are possible during operation.

A water heating system is made up of a heating unit, a network of pipes and radiators. To process and regulate the coolant, an expansion tank and additional attributes are installed.

The expansion tank is an important design element. When heated, water expands. In a closed system, the excess has nowhere to go, so pipes can burst. The tank serves as a liquid intake, where excess water flows.

The basic operating principle of water heating:

  • The boiler heats water to a certain temperature;
  • Hot liquid flows through pipes into radiators, which heat the room;
  • Slightly cooled water is sent to the boiler for further heating.

A closed system occurs: boiler, pipe, radiator, pipe, boiler.

Heating boilers - what are they and how to choose them? Our article will help you: . Rating and review of various boilers.

Pipe layout diagrams: do-it-yourself home heating

Pipe layouts can be: single-pipe - the most economical option and two-pipe.

For the first design, 1 pipe is used, which is a closed loop. The system works as a result of the different densities of cold and hot water. The heated liquid, which is squeezed out, has a lower density cold water. Moving along the pipe, it heats the radiators, then returns to the boiler. Each subsequent battery receives more low temperature water.

For normal functioning and natural circulation, the diameter of the pipe and its angle of inclination are important. The maximum expansion should occur near the boiler, gradually narrowing as it moves away. The same rules apply for return. The tilt angle should be 3-5 degrees. The heating apparatus itself is located in the basement or basement.

This heating design is suitable for a one-story house and does not depend on electricity. Most often, such a system is used for solid fuels.

A two-pipe system consists of 2 main pipes. One supplies heated media to the radiator, the other returns cooled water to the boiler. Forced heat distribution is provided by a circulation pump. This system distributes heat more evenly and is used for country house several floors. The downside is the additional costs of consumables.

In addition to the basic attributes you will need:

  • Circulation pump;
  • Thermostat;
  • Devices and means of process automation.

The two-pipe heating system is energy dependent. When it is turned off, the pump stops working. IN winter time A prolonged absence of electricity can lead to system failure.

Selection of materials and boilers: do-it-yourself heating in a private house

Before purchasing equipment and materials, you need to determine the power of the boiler. To do this, they produce taking into account the end walls of windows and passages.

Heating calculation guide:

  • For a room of 200 sq. m a boiler of 25 kW will be sufficient;
  • House of 300 sq. m will heat equipment of 35 kW;
  • From 400 to 600 sq. m will be heated by 60 kW equipment;
  • For a larger building comfortable temperature can be obtained with an equipment power of 100 kW.

The next step is the selection and calculation of the pipeline.

The market provides materials from:

  • Metal-plastic;
  • Polymer;
  • Copper;
  • Become.

Copper media would be an ideal option. They are durable, easy to use, and can withstand high pressures and temperatures. The only drawback is their high cost.

Steel specimens are now installed extremely rarely. Such pipes require the purchase of special threaded fittings.

Metal-plastic structures have gained wide popularity. The material can withstand heat load well and bends easily at different angles. For installation it is necessary to purchase special fittings. They will facilitate the process of assembling the structure. Metal-plastic belongs to the average price policy.

The cheapest option is polypropylene. To install the system, special equipment for sealing press fittings is required. Polymer products expand as the internal temperature increases, and folds may unravel, so there is a risk of water leakage. Such elements have an aesthetic appearance.

Choosing a boiler: water heating in a private house

Manufacturers produce several models of boilers. The heating unit must be selected based on the type of fuel that ensures its uninterrupted operation.

Heat generators have the following types:

  • Electrical;
  • Gas;
  • On solid and liquid fuel.

Electric heating is the most efficient. Coefficient useful action is about 100%. Such systems do not require installation additional elements: chimneys, ventilation. They are easy to use and cheap to install. However, they require additional electrical power, and energy consumption can be very expensive for owners.

Most Popular gas installations. Such designs are reliable, compact and quite effective. Additionally, a chimney and ventilation are required. Heating with gas is budget option. Equipment maintenance is carried out once a year. The boiler can be installed in the presence of a gas pipeline and installation requires special permission.

Solid fuel boilers are an alternative to gas coolant. Such units require constant monitoring, procurement of raw materials and take a long time to warm up. Due to dirt during operation, an additional room is required - a boiler room.

Advantages of solid fuel boilers:

  • They work on coal and wood;
  • Cheap fuel;
  • Compact dimensions;
  • Inexpensive installation.

Liquid fuel equipment, quite inexpensive, installation and heating will cost the owner as much as natural gas. A distinctive disadvantage is the specific smell after visiting the boiler room. Annual boiler maintenance will require a lot of effort.

System installation: do-it-yourself boiler room in a private house

After completing the wiring diagram and purchasing the necessary equipment and materials, installation of the heating system begins.

Stages of work:

  1. Boiler installation. A heating unit using gas and electricity can be located in any room; equipment using liquid and solid fuel requires a utility room or boiler room.
  2. Next, connect the boiler gas outlet pipe to the central chimney. The joints are coated with heat-resistant clay or mastic.
  3. If the option of forced heat distribution is selected, install a pump.
  4. Next, install the radiators. The batteries are hung under the window sills on special brackets. Before you start, you need to mark the walls. All radiators must be located at the same level. The batteries are installed at a distance of 2 cm from the wall.
  5. The heating system is completed by installing pipes and related components. It is necessary to install the expansion barrel at the highest point. Route the pipes to the radiators and install them. It is advisable to equip each heating element with taps. In the event of a leak, it will be possible to repair the unit without draining the entire system.

Having completed everything installation work, perform a test run. All detected defects are eliminated.

DIY heating device (video)

Heating options depend on the location of energy resources, financial and technical capabilities. For your dacha, you can choose the option of electric or fuel heating. Home local heating requires constant use of equipment, so it is recommended to use gas boilers. For a gas system, a test run is carried out under the supervision of a specialist.

Heating a country house is an important condition for comfortable living in a house. It is for this reason that the boiler room should be taken care of even before finishing work begins. Today, manufacturers offer various energy generators for heating.

Thus, gas equipment for a boiler room in a private building is designed and equipped in accordance with the most stringent requirements. The main reason is the possibility of explosion.

The second place of honor is occupied by boilers using solid and liquid fuels. Compared to gas appliances, they are not as explosive, however, they must be placed in a separate room. It is important to equip it with a high-quality supply and exhaust ventilation system and it is necessary to provide a special channel for the removal of chimney gases.

Electric boilers are easy to install. They do not require installation in a special combustion room. But in this option there are special rules related to safe use.


Since the requirements for a gas boiler room in private housing construction are the highest, let’s talk about this equipment in more detail. The remaining types of heating installations automatically meet the requirements created for gas appliances.

Requirements for the installation of gas boiler equipment

Those who want to install a minimum power boiler in their home should know that they do not need a separate room for the firebox. It is for this reason that you install a gas device in the kitchen space, observing the required standards:

  • The area of ​​the room must be at least 15 square meters;
  • Ceiling surface more than two meters;
  • The window opening must certainly have a window;
  • Supply and exhaust ventilation system rooms;
  • The wall surface above the floor surface at the bottom of the door leaf must have air intake holes that provide air flow;
  • It is important to install the boiler next to the wall surface from a non-flammable material.

If the room does not have wall surfaces made of non-combustible materials, then the arrangement of a boiler room in a private building allows for installation of the device on a plastered wall made of natural solid wood. But it must definitely be closed metal screen reflecting heat.

For a gas installation with a power of at least 30 kW, a separate space is required. The requirements for its arrangement mainly depend on the location. Let's talk about the most popular devices.

Installation in a separate room

The installation of a boiler room in a country house, operating on natural gas, is permissible in the attic, as well as on the desired floor.

In this option, the following requirements must be adhered to:

  • good lighting;
  • separate exit to the street;
  • the room must be more than 15 cubic meters;
  • free access to the unit and additional equipment;
  • exhaust ventilation system;
  • rooms located next to the combustion room must be separated from it by a wall surface with fire-resistant characteristics.

Ventilation

For high-quality operation of a gas heating device, an uninterrupted air flow is needed. It should be enough to both maintain combustion and remove gases.

To ensure good air exchange, a minimum power device in a dilapidated building usually requires natural ventilation of the furnace room. Air enters here from cracks in windows and doorways, as well as through other non-densities.

If the boiler room has sealed windows and doorways, then you cannot do without additional ventilation.

Selecting and installing the device

For those who want to know how to equip a boiler room with their own hands, it is important to know that before starting the installation it is worth choosing a set of the required equipment. The boiler is selected depending on climatic conditions and the volume of rooms for heating.


To calculate the boiler power for small space no more than 200 square meters, where ceiling surface does not exceed a few meters, and the wall surface is insulated, like window and door openings, it does not require much effort. For these purposes, the footage should be multiplied by the power of the installation, as in the photo of the boiler room, per every 10 meters of square space. This indicator was derived through an experiment for various Russian climatic territories.

Specialists will arrange the necessary additional equipment, focusing on the design documentation, connect the device to the chimney, set up an automated system, and also carry out commissioning work.

Photo of a boiler room in a private house



When developing the layout of a private house, Special attention it is worth paying attention to the boiler room. It is in this room that the main heating equipment, providing a comfortable temperature in the house, as well as timely supply of cold and hot water.

Installing a boiler room in a private house can hardly be called a simple undertaking. After all, this room has special requirements that are very important to comply with.

The conditions for installing a boiler room in a private house directly depend on the type of boiler and its location. The first thing that the owner of a private house must do is to draw a project for the future boiler room, which will indicate all the main details and elements, as well as the standards for the boiler room.

General standards

Installation of a boiler room in a private house is carried out in the following places:

  • on attic;
  • in a separately built house;
  • in a self-contained container;
  • in the house;
  • in an extension to the house.

When developing a plan for a future private home, the most the best option would be to install the boiler at the attic level or in the basement. But if the building has already been erected and is in operation, then the optimal location for the boiler would be an extension to the house or a separate building. A fairly popular option for arranging a boiler room is a mini boiler room, where all heating equipment is located in a special container. The compact dimensions of this placement option allow you to equip space for heating and water supply devices almost anywhere.

It is also worth noting another option for arranging a boiler room in a private house, which is a ready-made compact building. A lightweight frame made of metal profiles covered with sandwich panels makes such a building mobile and very easy to transport and install. All manufacturing materials have an increased level of fire safety, which is very important when equipping a room for heating devices.

The internal arrangement of a boiler room in a private house directly depends on the model of the heating boiler. It can be gas, solid fuel or electric. Accordingly, the choice of room option for the boiler room will depend on this.

It is important to understand that determining the type of boiler and room is not enough to equip the boiler room according to all the rules. We need a project that combines a complete scheme for installing a boiler room in a private house and the standards for its use.

Attention ! Before installing boiler equipment in a private house, it is impossible to do without coordinating the project with the relevant government agencies. As a rule, this applies to projects involving the installation of a gas boiler.

Standards for various types of boiler houses

Depending on the options for installed boilers, there are a number of requirements. The entire list is spelled out in regulatory documents, and it requires owners of private houses to carefully study them and strictly implement them.

Let's look at the basic requirements in more detail.

Requirements for a gas boiler room

According to existing standards, operation of a gas boiler is possible with a power of no more than 30 kW in a residential building.

The room must have a window.

It is impossible to equip a gas boiler room without an exhaust hood. Therefore, special holes must be provided at the bottom of the door to ensure normal air flow.

If gas equipment has a power of more than 30 kW, then a separate room will be required for its proper placement.

If heating equipment is installed inside a residential premises, the following requirements must be met:

  • presence of a separate front door outside;
  • sufficient lighting;
  • powerful hood;
  • The walls of rooms adjacent to the boiler room must be made of fire-resistant material.

As practice shows, the best option for a powerful heating boiler is a free-standing mini boiler room.

Attention ! Arranging such a room will ensure safe operation of the equipment, maintain silence in the house and significantly save living space.

The following requirements apply to a separate room for heating equipment:

  • the foundation of a residential building and the base of the boiler room cannot touch;
  • in order to install a gas boiler you need to build a separate foundation;
  • all floors must be made only of fire-resistant materials;
  • the chimney pipe is installed on a separate base.

Requirements for a solid fuel boiler

This type of heating equipment is not classified as explosive, so the requirements are not very strict.

The boiler can be installed in the basement.

There must be a steel sheet on the floor in front of the firebox opening. The entire remaining surface of the floor is filled with concrete screed.

It is necessary to install a window, the dimensions of which are determined based on the power of the equipment. For 1 kW of power there should be 0.8 m² of window glazing.

The diameter of the chimney and the pipe on the boiler must match.

Advice ! For greater safety and durability, it is better to cover the chimney with plaster.

The minimum space for placing a solid fuel boiler should be 8 m².

The power of the hoods directly depends on the power of the boiler.

A prerequisite for placing a solid fuel boiler is the availability of fire extinguishing means: a fire extinguisher, sand, a small shovel.

Requirements for an electric boiler room

This type of heating equipment is considered the safest and easiest to operate. To place electric heating devices, it is not necessary to arrange a separate room.

Also, don’t worry about installing ventilation, since electric boilers do not emit combustion products.

An electric boiler can be placed anywhere, the main thing is that the voltage in the network is able to withstand the heavy loads of the boiler.

Installation work

The process of installing heating equipment is generally the same for any type of boiler. Let's consider, as an example, the most common option - installing a gas boiler.

Gas-fired boilers come in two types: wall-mounted and floor-mounted.

Wall model

The main condition for installing this type of equipment is the air temperature in the room. It should vary from +5 °C to +36 °C, humidity should be within 80%.

Initially, work is carried out on finishing the walls. They need to be covered with special fireproof materials, at least 3mm thick.

It is also necessary to comply special requirements for ventilation of a boiler room in a private house. It is advisable to carry out this stage as early as possible. For this purpose, a hole with a diameter of about 15 cm is punched in the lower part of the wall, with access to outside Houses. A corrugated pipe is inserted into it. Mounted on the pipe from the inside check valve. The exhaust hole is equipped in a similar way.

Attention ! It is especially important to install ventilation if a sealed door and window are installed in the room.

We begin installation of gas equipment. A special bracket for the boiler is mounted to the wall. It is usually included in the package.

The height of the equipment from the floor must be at least 80 cm. The mount is mounted strictly parallel to the base. This can be checked using a building level.

After the boiler is fixed to the wall, an expansion tank and an air valve need to be mounted at the highest point of the heating system.

To prevent debris from entering the heat exchanger, a filter is mounted on the supply pipe. Then the pipes are connected to the boiler outlets.

The next step is to connect the boiler to the three main systems of the house: gas, water and electricity.

Important ! It is better to entrust the connection of the heating boiler to the gas water system to a specialist.

Electrical and hydraulic connections can be done with your own hands. It is important to comply with the following requirements when piping a boiler room in a private house:

  • The flow of hot water and gas should be in opposite directions. Otherwise, there is a high probability of an explosion. After the process of connecting the boiler to the water supply of the house is completed, all connections must be carefully checked, it is advisable to repeat the procedure again after some time;
  • If there is antifreeze in the heating system, then it must be drained and the entire system flushed, otherwise an explosion will be inevitable.

Important ! Before proceeding with the installation of the boiler, you should install gas tap, valve, meter and gas sensor.

The electrical system being installed must be equipped with automatic operation sensors that can prevent overheating and short circuits of the equipment. Before starting the equipment for the first time, it is filled with water to check for leaks.

Floor model

The floor-standing version has higher power and performance. As a rule, such boilers are located in separate rooms.

In order for the boiler to be installed correctly and efficiently, the floor must be smooth and durable. The best option will become a concrete screed.

After the boiler and boiler are installed, they are connected to the chimney and heating system with a filter to prevent blockages.

When connecting the system to the water supply, tie-in water pipes should be carried out as close as possible to the entrance of the pipe into the house.

Conclusion

It is worth noting that creating a project and installing a boiler room in a private house is a labor-intensive undertaking that requires not only knowledge and experience, but also the availability of special tools and materials. You should not take risks if you are not confident in your strengths and capabilities, because not only comfortable living in the house, but also the safety of the entire family depends on a properly installed system.

How to install the boiler correctly wooden house, we'll find out in the next video

During the construction of a country house, the layout of each room is carefully thought out, including the placement of the toilet, and taking into account the size of the window in the boiler room. Not a single cottage is complete without a boiler room. The furnace or boiler room must be equipped in accordance with certain requirements not only SNiP, but also safety regulations, otherwise you risk getting a fine or causing a fire, especially if the boiler room is located in a wooden house.

Why do you need a boiler room design?

A boiler room in a private house requires certain building design standards. You cannot make a project yourself; its development must be carried out by specialists who have permission for this type of activity.

Designers carry out thermal engineering calculations of the premises, select equipment to meet household needs, and make working drawings. All technical solutions and standards are described in explanatory note. The results of the specialists’ work are submitted to the relevant organizations for approval.

At the design stage, the following criteria are taken into account:

  1. Energy carrier type: selected according to site conditions. In one place you can use gas, but in another place you can use only wood. It is best to choose a combi boiler.
  2. Heating mode: the mode of residence of residents is taken into account - permanent or periodic. In the latter case, it is advisable to install software control of the heating system at the discretion of the owner.
  3. Location of the boiler room or boiler room, taking into account the volume of the boiler and the size of the room.

The furnace design must be submitted for approval to gas service, attaching a package of additional documents to it:

  • technical passport of boiler equipment;
  • sanitary and hygienic conclusion;
  • boiler operating instructions and certificate of compliance with technical requirements.

The approval process can last no more than three months. If the regulatory organization has no claims against project documentation, then it is certified with a seal and handed over to the customer. Only now can you begin installing a boiler room in a private house. If there are comments on the project, then it is returned for revision, followed by a repeat approval procedure.


Where can the boiler room be located?

The requirements largely depend on the technical characteristics of the equipment. For example, there is no need to set up a separate room for electric boilers; such equipment can be built anywhere, as long as the design of the room does not deteriorate. As for other types of boilers, you need to equip separate rooms for them or adapt a room inside the house:

  • separate boiler room;
  • in the attic;
  • in a small-sized autonomous module;
  • a boiler room in the basement of a private house is very common;
  • in the house itself, if you pre-equip the room;
  • in the annex.

So, if there is not enough space for new buildings, a furnace room can be installed right in the house, not forgetting about the rules for installing a boiler in the living room. However, it is better to place the equipment in the basement or attic during the construction stage. The ideal option would be an extension or a separate building.

Gas heating is the most economical, so next we will consider the requirements for a gas boiler room in a private house.

What size space is needed for a boiler room in a house?

Gas is a rather explosive type of fuel, so the equipment of the room for a gas boiler must be in accordance with a number of requirements and rules of SNiP. With a boiler power of no more than 30 kilowatts, it is not necessary to equip a separate room; it can be installed in the kitchen. However, the minimum area of ​​the boiler room, that is, the kitchen, should not be less than 15 square meters. m.


Heating equipment can be placed in the kitchen only if the following requirements are met:

  • walls must be finished with fire-resistant materials;
  • the area of ​​the room must be at least 15 square meters;
  • ceilings with a height of at least 2.5 meters;
  • Closer to the floor, you need to equip an opening for air intake to ensure its constant circulation;
  • it is necessary to install a ventilation system;
  • Windows with vents are required;
  • The window area is also regulated by the requirements: for every cubic meter of the kitchen there must be 30 centimeters of square glazing, that is, a window in a boiler room with an area of ​​15 square meters must have an area of ​​at least 1.5 square meters. m.

Thus, the larger the volume of the boiler, the larger the combustion area should be.


Requirements for a furnace room in a separate room

If you want to equip a boiler room separately in an extension or basement, then you must meet not only the basic requirements, but also a number of additional ones:

  • fire resistance of walls separating rooms;
  • daylight;
  • ventilation system with air replacement frequency 3 times/hour;
  • separate exit to the outside;
  • providing convenient access to boiler maintenance;
  • the volume of the room is at least 15 cubic meters.

It is also necessary to comply with the basic SNiP standards if you install the equipment in a separate standing boiler room:

  1. The foundation of a separate building should not be in contact with the foundation of a residential building.
  2. The walls and roof must be finished only with fire-resistant materials.
  3. When constructing a building, sand mortar must be used.
  4. For the boiler you need to build a separate foundation 15-20 cm from the floor.
  5. It is necessary to install a sewer system so that, if necessary, the coolant can be drained from the system.

A pleasant bonus of this placement is that you will not hear the noise of a gas heating device during its operation.


How to arrange ventilation?

In order for the boiler to operate at maximum efficiency, it is necessary to ensure constant access to fresh air in the room, which helps remove fuel combustion products. As a rule, natural ventilation is sufficient for this, but if the room is heavily sealed, then it is necessary to create artificial ventilation, otherwise combustion products will settle inside the rooms and can cause a fire.

  • Natural ventilation. If the power of the heating unit does not exceed 30 kilowatts, then in order to ensure natural circulation air, just drill a hole in the wall with a diameter of 10-15 cm and install it in it plastic pipe of the appropriate size with a grid or mesh. A backdraft valve must be installed inside the pipe so that air can escape from the room.

The ventilation hood is equipped in a similar way, protecting the outlet from atmospheric precipitation. And the supply opening should be located below, next to the heating device - so the flow of fresh air will flow directly into the combustion chamber. And since fuel combustion products rise to the top, an exhaust hood should be placed above the unit.

  • Forced ventilation. When it is not possible to provide natural ventilation or it is not enough, based on the power of the boiler, then you can resort to artificial air circulation. The main elements - fans must be selected taking into account the power of the heating device, adding another 30%.

Do not neglect the provision of high-quality ventilation, otherwise, in the absence of fresh air, the equipment may explode!


Requirements for chimney installation

The chimney is another important part when arranging a boiler room for a private home. And certain requirements are also put forward for this equipment, and if they are not met, the operation of the boiler will be seriously impaired and the consequences can be very dire.

So, here are the main requirements for installing a chimney according to SNiP:

  1. The chimney pipe must be exactly the same diameter as recommended in the heating boiler data sheet.
  2. The number of turns and bends of the pipe is strictly limited - no more than three.
  3. The height of the chimney is also limited - above the roof, but not more than 5 m.
  4. In this case, the cut of the chimney pipe should not be located below the level of the roof itself, otherwise air will be sucked through it, which can lead to smoke.
  5. The pipe must be made exclusively of metal, cylindrical in shape with special holes for convenient periodic cleaning.
  6. It is strictly forbidden to install a protective umbrella or other similar structures at the top of the chimney.
  7. The cross-section of the pipe must also fully comply with the requirements of the specific heating boiler model.
  8. The pipeline must be gas-tight, otherwise the products of fuel combustion will not be discharged outside, but will flow back into the boiler room.
  9. It is necessary to make two holes in the wall of the boiler room: one for the chimney, and the other, located slightly lower, for convenient maintenance of the unit.

These rules are specified in the regulatory documentation of SNiP, taking into account the innovations of 2008.


Features of equipment installation

Boilers operating on gas fuel, can be of two types: wall and floor.

Installation wall-mounted device is carried out at a room temperature of no lower than +5 and no higher than +35 degrees, while the air humidity in the room should not exceed 80%.

  1. First of all, it is necessary to decorate the walls of the room with heat-resistant building materials layer or thickness of at least 2 mm.
  2. Since ventilation in the boiler room of a private house is one of essential elements, then the next step is to do vent in the wall at a height of 30 cm, into which a pipe with a diameter of 15 cm is inserted and an exhaust hole above the equipment, also with a pipe facing the street.
  3. Then you can proceed directly to the installation of equipment. To do this, holes are made in the wall at a height of at least 80 cm from the floor, and parallel to it. You can check whether the brackets are installed at the same level using a building level.
  4. After this, you need to hang the wall-mounted boiler on the brackets and secure it.
  5. Next, an air valve and an expansion tank are mounted at the highest point of the system.
  6. To prevent the heat exchanger from clogging, it is necessary to install an angled corner on the pipe that supplies the coolant. strainer, on both sides of which, like on branch pipes, ball valves are placed. This measure will allow you to change filters in the future without draining the water from the system.
  7. Then the heating equipment is connected to the chimney.
  8. After this, you can begin to connect the pipes with the pipes coming out of the boiler, removing the plugs installed by the manufacturer. The water supply pipe is connected to the upper branch pipe, and the dispensing pipe is connected to the lower one. The best way to do this is by gas welding. In this case, the pipe clone must be at least 5 mm per meter of pipeline.
  9. The final stage is piping, that is, connecting the boiler to the gas, electricity, and hydraulic systems.


Before installing heating equipment, it is necessary to install the following elements into the system:

  • valve/gas tap;
  • counter;
  • gas alarm;
  • thermal shut-off valve.

In this case, the electric meter must be equipped with an automatic circuit breaker (RCD), which will prevent overheating or short-circuiting of the wiring.

Before the first start, the boiler must be filled with water and checked for leaks by disconnecting the boiler from the network and opening the built-in valve, which is located at the bottom of the product.

Floor-standing boilers are much more powerful and, accordingly, larger in size than wall-mounted ones, so they are usually placed on the floor in a separate room. The installation process for floor-standing equipment is the same as for wall-mounted equipment, but there are several important nuances:

  1. For a boiler of this type, the floor surface must be flat and durable so that the load on the legs of the product is distributed as evenly as possible. It is better to install the equipment on a small pedestal made of cement-sand screed.
  2. After fixing the boiler, it must be connected to the chimney, as well as to the heating system of the house, installing a filter to protect against blockages.
  3. When connecting equipment to the water supply system, the tap into the water supply system should be placed as close as possible to the pipe entrance to the house. This measure will ensure high pressure water in the system and its uninterrupted supply.
  4. Finally, the heating equipment is connected and checked.


Thus, you can install heating equipment with your own hands in a boiler room designed in accordance with the norms and requirements of SNiP and other regulatory bodies, thanks to which the heating system will operate efficiently and safely. Remember that failure to comply with at least one requirement can bring very unpleasant consequences.