Correct location of the washing machine drain hose. Connecting the washing machine to the sewer

Installing a washing machine in your home includes connecting it not only to the power supply and water supply, but also sewer system. Moreover, it is with drainage that difficulties often arise; connecting the household appliances in question to the power supply and water is as easy as shelling pears. To connect yourself washing machine to the sewer, you can use three methods. The technology in all cases is extremely simple. Any self-taught person can do everything, you just need to follow the simplest rules.

Necessary tools and components

To connect the washing machine to the sewer, you need to have three tools on hand:

Pliers.
Flathead screwdriver.
Pipe cutter for plastic pipes (or hacksaw for metal).

Wrenches may only be needed if it is necessary to extend an existing drain hose using a coupling. This will have to be done when the automatic machine is far from the sewer outlet. At the same time, it is highly not recommended to extend this flexible drain outlet to a length of more than three meters. If it is long, the pump in the washing machine may not be able to cope with pumping water and burn out.

Necessary adapters and taps for connecting a washing machine

Consumables you will need:

sealing rubber bands;
sealant;
corrugated hose (usually included with the washing machine);
tee or new siphon (depending on connection option).

To connect the washing machine drain to the sewer, a minimum set of tools and components is sufficient. The same replacement of electrical wiring or installation of water pipes requires much more tools.

Washing machine connection diagram

Methods

Connecting the washing machine to the sewer system is done:

directly to the sewer pipe using a tee;
through a connection to the siphon under the sink.

The first option is more difficult to implement with your own hands, but it is more practical and reliable. Plus, the risk of flooding when connected to a siphon is much higher than in the case of a direct connection between the drain hose and the sewer pipe.

Necessary conditions for connecting a washing machine to a siphon

At the same time, it is recommended to choose a method even when the question of how to install a sewer system in a house or apartment is being decided. It is better to determine in advance the location for the washing machine. And it is also necessary to provide in advance for this equipment an insertion point in the sewer system.

Another way to organize drainage from a washing machine is to simply hang the hose on the side of the toilet or bathtub. In this case, even installation tools are not required. But it’s difficult to call this option correct. Plus, you will have to look after such water flow more carefully in order to definitely avoid a flood in the house.

Connecting a washing machine

Connection via siphon

It is possible to connect the washing machine to the sewer system using a drain siphon only if it is designed for such installation. If it doesn't have a side outlet for connecting an additional hose, then nothing will work. Or he will come to change it to the desired option.

How to connect a washing machine via a siphon

Moreover, if the cabinet under the sink is small in size or the washbasin is on a narrow ceramic leg, then draining through a siphon with a pipe on the side will not work. There simply won't be enough space under the bowl for new pipes.

Rules for installing a washing machine under the sink

The connection is made via a siphon as follows:

The plug is removed from the side pipe.
It is lubricated with silicone.
A hose from a washing machine is put on the outlet, over which a worm-drive clamp is pulled.
The clamp is tightened with a screwdriver or pliers.

How to connect a washing machine to the sewer and water supply in the kitchen

The main disadvantage of this method is gurgling in the sink drain when the washing machine is running.

Using reduction directly to the sewer

To connect the washing machine directly to the sewer, you need to install a tee on the drain pipe under the sink or bathtub. One of its outlets will be used as before for connected plumbing, and the second will go for washing machine. You can also make a tie-in directly into the sewer pipeline or mount a branch from the riser. But these options are more complex; you should resort to them only when carrying out major repairs.

How to properly install a washing machine

The drain from the machine is inserted into the tee through rubber cuff. This adapter has to be used, since hoses from washing machines and plastic fittings PVC sewer pipes for internal sewerage have different diameters. If you simply insert the drain outlet into the tee, then the drainage under pressure will flow out of the pipeline through the gap at the junction.

Connecting the washing machine drain

Other draining methods

You can also drain the water from the washing machine directly into the bathtub, sink or toilet. For this purpose, almost all of the considered Appliances Includes a hard plastic nozzle for the drainage hose. It is designed to fix the drain hose on the side of the above-mentioned plumbing fixtures.

To do it is a much more complex and multifaceted task than connecting it to the water supply system. Almost every case requires an individual approach here. But, again, everything can be solved, and if you intend to arrange the water drain for your washing machine by not simply hanging a hose on the sink or in the bathtub, then so be it, everything is in your hands. How to do it?

Sewer EURO tee for draining a washing machine

If you have a modern plastic sewerØ40 or Ø50 mm - everything is simple and there will be no problems with organizing the drainage. We purchase an appropriate elbow or tee with an outlet angle of 45° (if we place it under the sink), and a cuff for it with internal diameter 25 mm.

When installing the cuff into the tee, do not remove the sealing ring from the tee socket, which is often the sin of people inexperienced in plumbing - it will create an additional guarantee of the tightness of the connection. If the cuff is too tight, warm it up hot water a few minutes. After such heat treatment, it will become soft and elastic, and will easily fit into place. All that should remain visible from the side is the thin three-millimeter limiting edge of the cuff.

If you have any problems with the operation of your washing machine, we are ready to provide the service on extremely favorable terms.

Sometimes a very interesting effect happens: your sewage system is the most modern, the pipe diameter is 50 mm, you buy a corresponding tee Ø50 mm in the store, but it, as they say, does not fit the fitting size. It is hindered by two extra millimeters of its diameter from entering the pipe. Usually this is not a completely new design, which suggests that there was once a production that had its own standards, different from others. And the standard O-ring does not fit them either.

If such a situation occurs, you can go to extremes: remove the o-ring, fill its seat with sealant, and also coat the lead-in part of the tee. The tee will fit into the pipe with the sealing ring removed, but no more than a couple of centimeters. However, its fit is very tight (it will have to be driven into the pipe with good effort), and together with the sealant, it will never let water through. If it stands vertically, this option would never have worked, but if horizontally, it’s better to take a Ø40 mm tee and join it through a 50x40 transition collar. Using this method, you will not even suspect that the pipe is somehow different.

The diameter of the corrugation coming from sinks and sinks in 99% of cases does not exceed Ø40 mm, so the use of a tee with this diameter will not affect the bandwidth pipes. If at the end of the corrugation there is a socket with a diameter of 50 mm, carefully cut it off. It is usually fragile, so we do not put pressure on the cutter, but with light pressure we make rotational movements, and in three or four turns we finish the cut.

Attention!

When purchasing a 50×25 cuff, please note that in nature there are also cuffs with an internal diameter of 32 mm. To the untrained eye, it is extremely difficult to distinguish them from cuffs with a diameter of 25 mm, and more than once I had to rebuke sellers who handed me 50x32 cuffs instead of 50x25 cuffs. I always bought goods in the same store (due to the presence of a very serious discount), and these sellers have been working in this store for several years - what I mean is that this was not a random department store for household goods, but a serious plumbing store, and the sellers there had a great understanding of the product, and did not undergo student internship. But, nevertheless, they regularly gave me the wrong thing. And they even tried to convince me a couple of times that the cuff with Ø32 mm is great for attaching the drain hose from the washing machine, instead of going 3 steps to the tray with the cuff that I needed.

No. Doesn't fit great. The hose enters it without proper force, and one day it may simply be knocked out of the cuff. By the way, I often heard from people that someone’s drain hoses flew out somewhere. Often we came across 50×32 cuffs on the drainage system for a washing machine when people purchased a new washing machine and needed to install it. That is, the installer of the previous washing machine installed a 50x32 cuff. And this installer came from the official service center, as it unobtrusively turned out. Why are people's hoses flying out, I wonder..? Mystery…

Draining the washing machine through the sink siphon

Another option for organizing the drainage of water from a washing machine is a siphon equipped with a special fitting. You replace the old siphon with a new one, and you're done. The fitting is usually two-dimensional - tapering towards the end. If the hose fits on it too loosely, cut off the thin end using rotary movements of the cutter with light pressure (plastic is fragile). To drain water through a siphon, it is not always necessary to completely change it. If your siphon is not from Soviet times, but is Euro-compatible, you can simply modernize its design by adding a spout insert for a washing machine (see photo). They are available in several types, depending on the designs of siphons and the sizes for which they are intended.

If the only option for the drain hose is to lead into the kitchen sink, and the area around it is too wide wooden platform, which is not covered by the bracket intended for fixing the hose, you can also make a circular saw of small diameter on the surface of the platform miter saw and remove the hose from it into the sink. In this case, one end of the hose bracket will go inside the hole and will securely hold the hose, which will look like the spout of a small faucet. We select the diameter of the saw according to the diameter of the bracket-holder plus a couple of millimeters for free movement (the holder expands slightly when a hose is inserted into it).

An old cast iron pipe is a window to EUROPE

If you have a cast iron sewer pipe, we will first have to adapt it to the modern plastic EURO standard using a 73x50 cuff. Typically, the water drainage pipe from the sink is sealed in old installation sewer systems cement mortar. Sometimes this is a rather weak solution, which easily yields to gentle blows of a hammer on an impact screwdriver, sometimes not very easily, but without much resistance. One day, however, I got caught difficult case. Judging by the fact that the solution was removed crumb by crumb, and even required the use of a hammer drill in places, it was real concrete. Using a hammer drill to remove mortar from cast iron is not very advisable, because the impact energy of the hammer drill is very serious, and it produces it in series of several blows per second. To avoid the transmission of vibrations from the place where they are created further to other connections of this pipe, which are very capricious to vibration, and even more so to avoid the creation of resonance effects, it is preferable to work with a more primitive instrument. Longer, but calmer.

When starting to work with cast iron pipe, you should take into account the fact that the connections of these pipes are sensitive to vibration. If this is a pipe in the kitchen, then, as a rule, it is in the tight embrace of the wall, and the force on the pipe is not dangerous for everything located behind this wall. The maximum that can be damaged is the connection of the pipe coming out of the wall with the outlet, which, in fact, is what we are working with. If this is a branch in the bathroom, then we risk creating a lever that swings other nearby connections on this pipe. Plus, old cast iron tends to crumble and crack simply from disrepair. So, before starting work, we evaluate the condition and integrity of the pipe connections, the presence of cracks in the sockets. We examine the places where the pipe is fixed - in order to imagine the amount of leverage from our manipulations with it. If you are not sure that there will be no problems, it is better not to undertake it. Or just be prepared for these problems. Methods for dealing with problems will be described below.

So, the sequence of actions to transform the socket of an old cast iron pipe into one compatible with all modern materials system is as follows:

At a height of 2-3 cm above the cement level, we cut off the pipe/corrugation from the sink, insert something inside that prevents pieces of the splitting solution from falling irretrievably into the sewer, and at the same time so that this “something” itself does not disappear into the sewer abyss. Any large bag from a grocery supermarket will do - a small part of it remains sticking out, ensuring its return, and what ends up inside creates a fairly high cushion right in the section of the pipe, without contact with the bottom. In this case, it is advisable, just in case, to ensure that there is no water in the pipe from water points located further away from the riser (so that our package does not get washed away).

The piece of corrugation sticking out of the cement is a strong reinforcing element of the connection. Therefore, we remove it, processing it along the diameter with a screwdriver and a hammer until it becomes mobile - the plastic willingly moves towards the center, yielding its bed to the screwdriver, after which the segment can be “bitten” with pliers and forcefully pulled out (usually a hammer and screwdriver are not even required).

Next, we knock out part of the ring along the radius, as shown in the figure. The direction of the blows is from the edge to the center, we need to break the integrity of the circle. Do not confuse the concept of “direction of blows” with the blows themselves - we start them from the center, gradually moving away to the outer edge. After knocking the strip out of the radius, the cement quite easily leaves the pipe in sectors 4-5 cm long - we carefully knock them down impact screwdriver again from the outside to the center. There’s no need to put unnecessary weight on our package “airbag” - we pick up everything we can during the process and put it in a pile next to it. The cement is held in the socket not so much by adhesion to the pipe, but by tensile forces acting outward. Therefore, if we had the opportunity to strike from inside the pipe, it would be much faster and easier. This factor should be taken into account when choosing a cement plug removal strategy. When everything is removed, carefully knock down small irregularities inside the bell, aiming for the most even surface possible - the tightness of the cuff fit will depend on this.

Now we take the cast iron/plastic cuff 73×50 (if we want to adapt cast iron to Ø50 mm), and install it in the prepared place. As a rule, it does not go without effort, but if you doubt the compatibility of the cuff and the bell (sometimes there are bases), cut it off stationery knife lower seal ring. If the cuff falls freely to the second ring, then everything is fine with the dimensions, and we just apply more force - it’s not a sin to tap lightly with a hammer in the end. If the cuff is kept in hot water for a couple of minutes, it usually becomes a little more accepting of its fate. Sometimes there are actually bells of a slightly smaller diameter - trying on a cuff with the lower ring cut off gives a little resistance. Depending on this resistance, select the size of the cut of the remaining rings - either half along their height, ensuring the evenness of the cut, or completely. Then the cuff sits in place, and if you coat it with sealant first, then this will not be at all superfluous.

EURO-socket for old plastic

It is often not cast iron, but old-style plastic sewers that are found. As a rule, it only complements cast iron at some point and has the same socket diameter. The cement is removed from it more easily, without impact. After removing the section of the washing pipe/corrugation, we compress the socket with a pipe wrench in several places along the diameter. Since plastic is elastic and has little tendency to adhere to cement, we can easily free the socket cavity from physical contact with the cement ring, while simultaneously creating radial cracks in the ring during this compression. The ring, divided into segments, is not glued to the bell and is held in it by the compressive force of the plastic. All that remains now is to simply pull the pieces out, creating a force from the bottom up. Using the same pipe wrench, we engage the sectors from the inside, or use other lever systems.

It is not uncommon for a situation where plastic pipe there is no bell. Apparently, at one time someone did not bother removing the cement when replacing the siphon and simply cut the pipe. The recipe in this case is simple, but somewhat unusual. We take a 50×40 cuff, warm it in hot water and put it on a tee (or bend, depending on the situation) Ø50 mm. He dresses reluctantly, but gets dressed. Next, we also have to do painstaking work - carefully cut off three thin sealing rings, which, oh, how capriciously they are cut off due to their small height, but we are not on our way with them, they stubbornly do not want to let the tee into the socket. However, try it on first - who knows, you might be lucky, although I was lucky only once. We also cut off the upper sealing ring (not the edge, but the RING) - under the cone, in the direction of the lower part of the cuff.

Now, using rotational movements, we connect our structure with the pipe until it expands at the cuff. It's tight, but that's good, considering the fairly small contact area. However, the connection is strong and reliable.

Draining water for a washing machine: extreme solutions

State cast iron sewer doesn’t inspire a bit of optimism, but I really want the dirty water from the car to pour out not into the sink, but into the sewer. The method is also useful when replacing a siphon or corrugation, with other equal hopelessness.

Typically the corrugation has a diameter of 40 mm. But we will work with it using Ø50 mm material with transition cuffs 50×40. Why don't we just take the appropriate pipe size? The sealing tube ring of the components from the Ø40 series has too small a contact surface area, and the use of a 50x40 adapter collar gives an advantage both in terms of area and the fact that inner part The transition collar has three sealing collars. We need to ensure vertical retention of water at the junction of the coupling and corrugation. Install the cuff into the coupling using sealant. Next, we fill the internal cuff cavities with sealant, and also apply sealant to the seating part of the corrugation. We insert the corrugation into the coupling. We mean that various debris will get into the gap between the walls of the coupling and the corrugation from the sink, which may one day contribute to the creation of a blockage. Therefore, we fill this gap with sealant (sealant with a spout, used in a mounting gun, will come in handy here).

Actually, we converted a piece of corrugation sticking out of the sewer pipe into a Euro connector. Then everything is standard. The sealant has sufficient viscosity not to be washed off with water, so the compound can be used immediately, but try not to overuse it. If possible, it is better not to disturb him for at least the next couple of hours. But if you can’t wait to check, you can do it right there. Please note that we are talking here about an extreme option, which can only be used in a completely hopeless situation, because this piling up of cuffs is not good, and is only suitable as a temporary measure. Very temporary.

It’s rare that a person can live without a washing machine these days. High-quality and carefully selected equipment will last for a very long time without failures or utility accidents.

One of the components of such reliability is correct connection washing machine drain to the sewer. In contrast to providing equipment with electricity and tap water drainage device required more attention.

Is it possible to connect a washing machine to the sewer yourself? This kind of work is quite accessible to anyone. home handyman, who has already dealt with plumbing. If you have no experience, then you need to show increased attention.
Before starting work and before purchasing all materials, it is necessary to study methods of draining dirty water and choose the most suitable one. What influences the choice:

distance from the washing machine to a convenient drainage point;
material of existing pipes in the apartment/house;
length, diameter of hoses included in the kit and purchased as needed.

It's best to sketch it out first. the simplest scheme connecting the machine to all networks - this will make it easier to present the overall picture, make calculations of the amount of work and the amount of materials.

Drain device methods

There are only three of them, from the simplest and cheapest to the more complex and costly.

Draining water into plumbing

Every washing machine comes with a “hook” - a plastic element in the shape of an inverted letter “U”. The drain hose is secured in it, after which the “letter” can be mounted on the edge of the sanitary container. Usually the drainage point is a bathtub, or alternatively a sink or toilet.

In fact, this method of draining almost always turns out to be inconvenient. If you still decide to use it, you need to consider:

the drain hose holder must be well secured to the edge of the sanitary container;
during washing you will not have to use the plumbing fixtures into which the drain stream is directed;
It is advisable to wash away the sediment contained in the waste water of the washing machine after each wash: the smallest particles of lint and various grains of sand are often invisible and easy to forget about until the accumulation becomes truly noticeable and difficult to clean off.

If this method of disposing of waste water is not suitable, the owners have no choice but to connect the washing machine drain to the sewer.

Inserting the drain hose into the siphon

A very popular method if the washing machine is located close to the sink. There are several options for draining a washing machine into the sewer through a sink siphon.

One of the simplest is to assemble a system under the sink from a regular siphon and a tube with an outlet. This scheme is simple and reliable: the washing machine drain hose goes to the siphon, rises just above the inlet and enters there from top to bottom.

This height difference prevents water from the sink drain from entering the drain hose when it is empty. One problem still remains. Sewer smell can penetrate into the cavities of the washing machine and even be absorbed into the laundry.

But this can be solved if we complicate the scheme a little. You can assemble a system with a water seal under the sink. At a glance, it looks like a recumbent letter "S". A small amount of water always accumulates in one bend, which prevents sewer odors from passing out or into the drain hose of the washing machine.

Another option with the same effect is to purchase a special anti-siphon valve for the washing machine with an outlet for attaching the drain hose.

Drain into the sewer

What to do if the previous methods of getting rid of dirty water are not suitable? The last option remains: to drain the washing machine directly into the sewer. This method usually turns out to be the most time-consuming and expensive. But it is ideal if the washing machine is installed far enough from the sink.

The material of the existing sewer system is important here. Tapping into old cast iron pipes can be quite a hassle. It is rarely possible to limit yourself to just connecting a washing machine. Sometimes it is necessary to replace a section of pipeline made of cast iron pipes. You have to act according to the situation.

In other cases, the work is usually easier. The owners of new cottages find themselves in the most advantageous situations: in this case, the sewer outlet for the drainage device can be provided in advance.

Connecting the washing machine drain to the drain under the bathroom is one of the popular ideas. The advantage of such a drainage system is that the hose can be hidden with a special screen; the design of the bathroom will only benefit from this. It is only important to avoid the mistake that inexperienced craftsmen often make.

We are talking about the horizontal insertion of the drain hose into the sewer. This is a completely wrong decision. The drain hose for the washing machine will inevitably fill with the contents of the bathtub and sink drain, if there is one. We have already talked about unpleasant odors. To avoid such a mistake, the drain hose must be inserted into the sewer from top to bottom.

Materials, tools, tricks

What a home handyman will need:

Drain hose. Under favorable circumstances, you can use the one that comes with the washing machine. In other cases it is purchased separately. We must not forget that the length of the hose is calculated with all ascents, descents and bends.
Means for sealing holes, joints, connections, gaskets for sealing, silicone sealant. In any plumbing work Leak prevention needs to be focused on Special attention.
Fittings for sewerage (tees, adapters), pipes, siphon, check valve for washing machine to drain - depending on the chosen connection method. Diameter, length and type are calculated according to the situation.
A pipe cutter if you plan to cut directly into the sewer.
Universal key or a set of wrenches.

Regardless of the chosen method of connecting the drain hose to the sewer, you must immediately carry out tests and do a dry wash after completing all work. Then possible shortcomings will immediately become visible. If everything is done correctly, then drainage system will last as long as the washing machine itself.

July 14, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and exterior decoration(plaster, putty, tiles, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, the renovation of an apartment or house was done on a turnkey basis with all the necessary types of work.

If you need to know how to connect a washing machine to the sewer, then you have come to the right place for advice. I want to talk about two main methods that can generally be applied in this case. In addition, I will explain the features of the sidebar, and also invite you to watch the video in this article.

Two methods

There is another, third way, which you see in the photo above.
But this is no longer a connection, but simply fixing the hose with a U-shaped adapter over the side of the bathroom.
This U-shaped fitting is included in the kit for every automatic washing machine.

Method one

It is not for nothing that I focus your attention on the automatic machine, since there the water is drained forcibly. Therefore, all the instructions below apply specifically to this type of washing machine:

on the plumbing market there are currently on sale siphons for sinks, sinks and bathtubs with an additional outlet for connecting a hose 22 mm in diameter;
we can say that there are much more such siphons (with an additional outlet) offered than conventional ones;
If you install such a siphon, but for some reason you will not connect the washing machine, then the output can be closed with the plug included in the kit.

Method two

But the correct connection of the washing machine to the sewer directly into the pipeline may differ slightly:

the hose, which is designed to drain water in an automatic washing machine, has a diameter of 22 mm, but there is no special socket for bends on 50 mm or 32 mm pipelines;
therefore, a rubber reduction with a transition to 22 mm is used for connection here— its price is rather symbolic, but the device fully corresponds to its purpose — it is convenient and airtight;
if your washing unit is located in close proximity to a 50mm sewer pipe, then of course you will be cutting into it through a tee;
but if the machine is at the other end of the room, then you should use PVC pipe 32 mm, connecting it to a 50 mm outlet;
in such cases, the scheme for connecting the washing machine to the sewer does not require installing the 32nd pipe at an angle, since the drainage here is forced;
The 32nd pipe is also connected to the outlet socket of the 50th pipe using a rubber reduction.

The drain hose on some units has a diameter of 19 mm on the machine side and 22 mm on the pipeline side.

Features of connecting a washing machine

First of all, you should know if your washing machine has a check valve on the drain that only allows water to flow in one direction. Only in this case will you be able to figure out how to properly connect the washing machine to the sewer.

If such a device does not exist, then the manufacturer must indicate the height level at which the hose loop should be located - a water pipe is created in this area. This seal mainly serves to prevent leakage unpleasant odors, which can penetrate from sewer through the car.

In the latest models automatic washing machines For the most part, a check valve is provided, so in this regard there should be no questions about how to connect the hose. Your task is only correct connection end pipe (it is smooth, without corrugation) with a rubber reduction or with an additional siphon outlet.

In order not to damage the rubber reduction, I usually lubricate it liquid agent for washing dishes - this makes it easier to pack them into a socket and insert a smooth pipe into it.

If the connection is made through an additional siphon outlet, then you just need to remove the tube that is inserted there from the factory and install a hose pipe instead. To seal the connection, there is a coupling - it is indicated by the number 8 in the image - it presses against the conical gasket, which, in fact, provides a seal in this place.

That is, the tube that is in this siphon from the factory is installed there more to keep these parts in working condition.

If a standard drain hose does not reach the place where it inserts into the sewer, then it can be increased by adding a piece of the required length and connecting these fragments with a fitting and safety with 16x27 mm steel clamps. As I already said, the end pipes can have different diameters, which is why there are connecting fittings for two options - you see them in the top photo.

There are also modular hoses on sale, where each fragment is 0.5 m long, so you can implement any requests. But do not forget that the longer the outlet, the more difficult it is to cope with the water supply.

Connection to water supply

In this case, oddly enough, connecting the unit to the water supply is much easier than to the sewer, since here, in fact, there is no choice. In any case, the water supply pipeline must be located near the automatic machine and there must be shut-off valves in the form of a straight or corner valve. There are two clamping nuts on the hose itself, therefore, there must be a fitting with an external thread on the machine itself and on the shut-off valve.

It is noteworthy that the nuts are designed for a 3/4-inch diameter, therefore, the shut-off valves must have the exact same thread. But if a special tap that is designed for this purpose is made at 3/4, then the water supply wiring most often has 1/2 inch. Therefore, in some cases a reducing fitting will be required for connection.

Conclusion

In fact, connecting the unit to the sewer with your own hands is quite simple, if all connections are made carefully, that is, hermetically. But if you still have a misunderstanding on this issue, ask about it in the comments.

Washing machines have long become indispensable household appliances for most people. But in order for them to perform their functions, uninterruptedly and in full, it is necessary to ensure the ability to drain contaminated water.

The easiest way to do this is using a regular hose included in the package. However, it is more practical to use a siphon for a washing machine, which will give a number important advantages. We will tell you how to select and install important and convenient sewer device.

The process of draining contaminated water after washing must be organized correctly. For this purpose, an important device called a siphon is used, which is capable of uninterruptedly draining any required amount of liquid.

Moreover, simultaneously with such an operation, a number of important tasks are performed, including:

Preventing the penetration of odors and gases from the sewer into the premises. This is achieved by using a water seal, which is a water plug that completely covers the desired section of the pipe along its entire diameter. Moreover, this structural element performs its functions even when the washing machine is not used for a long time.
Eliminating the formation of plugs in the drainage system, and, if this does happen, the design of the siphon will ensure an easy and quick cleaning procedure.

In addition, many siphons are capable of filtering large debris particles. This further helps prevent the possibility of a clogged drain requiring. This solution can also save valuable items forgotten in the pockets of some washable items.

Any siphon for draining/draining water from a washing machine is plastic or metal structure with a water seal to prevent odors from entering the home

An important function is also considered to be reducing the load on, which extends its life, and significantly. Is it necessary to use it?

The washing machine comes with a drain hose with a bending device. It can replace the siphon, because... prevents the backflow of waste water, but at the same time the contaminated liquid gradually spoils the enamel shell of the bathtub, sink or toilet

Modern washing machines are equipped with drain hoses, which can easily replace a siphon. The advantage of this method of water drainage is ease of installation and operation.

Since all that needs to be done to prepare for the draining procedure is to run the hose into the bathroom, sink, or toilet. This device is attached using a curved element - a holder, supplied with the hose.

If this method has only one advantages, then there are more disadvantages and they are more significant. So, if the hose is not connected to sewer pipe, then the hose will have to be bent into an S or U shape.

The siphon does not have to be specialized, that is, a washing product can drain contaminated water, dishwasher, having an additional pipe for draining from the machine

As a result, the thin-walled corrugated product will be constantly under load. Which often leads to a violation of its tightness and related problems. And by abandoning the water seal, the owner of the washing machine risks saturating his home.

Often the distance from the washing machine to the sewer pipe outlet is impressive, but it is not possible to lay the drain hose correctly, that is, with a slope. As a result, the load on the pump increases significantly, which will lead to its premature failure.

When connecting a drain hose with a water seal formed by bending the pipe, it is necessary to provide a slope to improve the flow of water into the sewer

In addition, if the length of the existing hose is insufficient, it is increased using an additional piece of the same product and a connecting coupling. Which also leads to an increase in resistance, which means an increase in the load on the pump.

Additional connecting points for all parts of the drain hose are not reliable and durable enough. As a result, a leak can start at any time.

Although drain hoses are inexpensive and easy to replace, the fear of causing harm to themselves or their neighbors should deter washing machine owners from continually using a hose, especially an improperly routed one, instead of a siphon.

Due to the above significant shortcomings using a drain hose can only be a temporary solution. You can organize the drain properly by connecting the washing machine to the nearest sewer pipe. If it is far away, then it should be lengthened.

To connect the hose to the pipe, you should purchase an additional rubber cuff, which will level out the difference in the diameters of these products. In addition, this way you can achieve the desired tightness of the connection. In this case, you must comply with the instructions included with the washing machine.

Laying sewer pipes in a hidden way We do this quite rarely, because... building regulations require free access to communications. However, locating the sewer connection point behind a false wall is quite possible

All of the above indicates that you can do without a siphon designed for, but this will not be the most practical or best solution.

Guidelines for choosing a device

Selecting drain fittings is difficult only because of the low awareness of potential buyers with this type of equipment. But it’s not difficult to fix this, since there are only a few types of it, which greatly simplifies the task.

The following video will introduce you to the typical types of siphons used when connecting washing machines:

These include the following siphons:

external;
internal;
combined.

Since each type has its own advantages and disadvantages, an interested person should familiarize himself with them in more detail. This will help save time and money when purchasing.

The built-in type of siphon is installed in the wall. The product usually comes with an external decorative panel that allows you to hide the installation location

Inexpensive and extremely unsightly

Typically, external siphons are used if the washing machine and the nearest sewer pipe are separated by a fairly large distance. This makes it possible to install in convenient location and use it constructively for this purpose simple products, not distinguished by compactness or other technical delights.

An external siphon is used when there is no need to save space, and its unsightly features are not striking, for example, if it is hidden behind the washing machine or bathtub

The disadvantages include the fact that external siphons do not make it possible to install existing washing machines close to the right person walls. Therefore, in some cases, insufficient compactness can also be considered a disadvantage.

Convenient and inexpensive models

A feature of all internal siphons is their small dimensions and the fact that they are mounted inside the wall, for which special recesses are made. The above allows you to install washing machines close to any wall of the room.

In addition, internal siphons are distinguished by high aesthetic qualities. Their body is recessed into a pre-made cavity, and outer part closes decorative panel, which can be metal or plastic. Therefore, of the entire structure, only the compact fitting, bent at 90 °C, can be seen.

The use of a built-in siphon allows you to completely hide aesthetically unattractive components. Only the coupling or fitting for connecting the hoses remains outside

The disadvantages of internal siphons are the relatively complex installation and considerable cost, compared to other types. In addition, they are much more difficult to dismantle, which causes some inconvenience when cleaning is necessary.

Universal combined option

Visually combined siphons do not differ from ordinary ones, with the exception of just one point. This is the presence in the design of several fittings intended for the simultaneous connection of drain hoses belonging to different objects.

This product is versatile, therefore it is used to simultaneously drain contaminated water from washing machines, washbasins, kitchen sinks, and dishwashers.

How to install a combined siphon is described in the following video, and it also shows the advantages and disadvantages of this method of connecting to the sewer:

Differences in size and shape

For ease of use, all modern drain fittings differ in shape and size. This is done to ensure the required performance, efficiency, prevention of clogging, ease of installation, providing sufficient aesthetic qualities, and solving other issues.

Siphons for sewerage installations are now produced in a wide range, allowing you to provide a water seal to all connection points of plumbing and household equipment to the sewerage system

Therefore, if a potential buyer needs to save space when installing a washing machine, then he should pay attention to flat siphons. They have the most compact dimensions.

As a result, they make it easy to place the purchased washing machine under the existing washbasin sink. That is effective solution, especially in small bathrooms. This type of setup can get interesting design solution, if a person chooses a matching household appliance and a sink.

The option of installing a washing machine under the sink requires the use of special flat look siphon, to which it is also possible to connect the washing machine drain

Devices with check valves

Although modern siphons successfully resist clogging and the formation of traffic jams, anything can happen. Therefore, the buyer should take care of an additional degree of protection.

For these purposes, a siphon for a purchased washing machine with a built-in check valve is used. It is designed to solve a number of important tasks to ensure safe use.

Which include:

Preventing the return of contaminated water when plugs form in sewer pipes.
Elimination of unauthorized drainage of water during the washing process.

The presence of this valve is especially important for residents of the lower floors of houses. Since they suffer the most from clogged sewer systems.

The check valve is extremely simple in design, but its use allows you to avoid the unpleasant phenomena of reverse flow of dirty liquid into the pipes connected to the siphon

At the same time, a potential buyer of this type of siphon should pay attention to the fact that many washing machines are supplied with check valves already equipped. Therefore, in order to avoid unnecessary expenses, this issue must be clarified in advance.

Preparing to purchase fittings

For organization efficient process For washing, you can use any type of siphon. The main thing is to take into account ease of installation, use and aesthetic qualities. If the washing machine is located far from the siphon, and saving space is not an issue, then you can buy any type of siphon.

It is ideal when the drain fittings are hidden from view by something - a bathtub, sink, door, furniture, or any other object. If the shape of the siphon “hurts the eye”, does not add aesthetics to the room, and there is no way to hide it, then you need to purchase a built-in product.

This solution will allow us to put washing machine close to any wall the owner needs, to hide the drain fittings. This option will significantly improve the appearance of the room.

A combined siphon is the most universal solution, as it allows you to connect any number of drain hoses to the sewer pipe

When you plan to install under, then it would be correct to purchase a flat siphon. He takes minimal amount space, so it will easily allow you to accomplish your plans.

If potential buyer plans to drain contaminated water simultaneously from 2-3 types of equipment, then optimal solution will be the purchase of a combined siphon having required quantity fittings for connecting drain hoses.

If there is no washing machine in the design check valve There is no need to save money on purchasing it. The owner will not regularly benefit from it, but in a critical situation this product will save you from significant troubles and losses.

A flat siphon is the best option when the owner of a washing machine needs to save space in the bathroom or other room

There is no need to skimp on the quality of the siphon itself or its components. Since their service life is always relatively short, and budget options remain operational for an even shorter period of time.

Installation of the purchased product

At self-installation siphon, a number of mandatory rules should always be taken into account. Otherwise, it will not be possible to organize effective drainage of contaminated water, and this will also affect the performance of the washing machine.

Mandatory installation rules include the following:

the siphon cannot be installed higher than 80 cm from the level at which the washing machine is located - non-compliance entails a large load on the pumping device, which leads to its rapid wear;
You should not lengthen the drain hose; such a solution will again lead to a significant increase in the load on the washing machine pump.

If you still had to perform an extension, then this should be considered as a temporary solution. There is no need to throw the drain hose on the floor, as the pump will have to put in even more extra effort to do its job.

That's why in the best possible way The problem with length can be solved by connecting the sewer pipe to the required distance.

Installing any siphon is a simple operation, but this only applies to situations where everything preparatory work completed and communications completed

If this is not possible, then the hose should be laid along the wall maintaining the required slope in order to ensure gravity flow of water. In this case, the pump will be acted upon permissible loads, which means the service life will not be reduced.

If you want to install the purchased siphon yourself, then you need to understand that this will be a simple operation only if the sewer pipes, sinks, washing machine, etc. are installed and connected. And the necessary preparatory work was completed, for example, a recess was made in the wall for a built-in siphon.

Installation and connection of the washing machine must be carried out in strict accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions, the exact recommendations of which are given in technical documentation to the product (+)

Additionally, a number of features need to be taken into account. For example, if the aforementioned internal siphon is installed, and tiles are used to decorate the walls of the bathroom, then the cladding is done first. And only then a place for the drain fittings is selected. Since working in the specified sequence will allow you to obtain higher aesthetic qualities.

If any of the listed conditions are not met, then installation will necessarily require significant knowledge and special tool. Which makes the capabilities of an unprepared person limited.

Mistakes are often made that lead to financial losses. This indicates the need to use the services of craftsmen for complex work on wiring communications and other things.

The drain pipe from the washing machine must be connected to the sewer system at a strictly defined height, which may differ slightly depending on the brand of the machine, or more precisely, on the power of the drain pump

However, a simple siphon replacement or simple installation is quite simple to perform. To do this, you need to connect the product to the sewer pipe, and then connect the drain hose.

To ensure proper sealing, new gaskets should be used. And after dismantling the old siphon from the sewer pipe, traces of dirt must be removed from the hose.

After completing the installation procedure, you should carefully check the tightness of all existing clamps, bolts, and other fasteners. Next, you need to drain the contaminated water in test mode.

Why is it placed under a siphon? toilet paper- such a simple solution will allow you to detect even minimal leakage, which is not always possible to do visually. Therefore, verification should be carried out only using the specified control method.

If a combined type of drain fitting is used, then it is worth simultaneous draining from all equipment in use. This will allow you to check the tightness and performance at maximum load.

This is how a drain hose is mounted to a sewer pipe if you want to save money on a siphon, although this is not the best solution

If testing does not reveal leakage of the siphon for draining contaminated liquid from the washing machine, then the owner can proceed to normal use. And without any restrictions.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Meet everyone existing species siphons can be done by watching the following video:

To choose best option siphon, allowing uninterrupted long time To remove contaminated water from washing machines, it is enough to have a small amount of knowledge.

Since only a few types of drain fittings are produced and used by washing machine owners, which are quite sufficient to satisfy all needs. And also you should never forget that the siphon must be installed correctly.

Tell us about how you selected and installed a siphon with a pipe for draining dirty water from the washing machine. Share valuable information on the topic of the article. Please leave comments in the block form below, post photos and ask questions about points of interest.