Insulation of a wooden floor in a bathhouse. How to properly insulate a bathhouse floor: choice of material, calculation, work technology

Climatic comfort in a bathhouse is achieved at a certain humidity and air temperature (50 g/m3, up to 60*C). Maintaining such comfort is achieved by using finishing building materials with a high level of thermal insulation and vapor barrier (aluminum foil or fiberglass foil). Based on the thermal insulation properties of the material, you can determine how to insulate a steam room (steam room, wash room) in a bathhouse from the inside to ensure climate stability and comfort. Maintaining a constant climate involves energy costs. Walls, ceilings and floors must not only have good vapor barrier, but also the room they form must have a volume that allows the air to be heated at a comfortable time.

Approximate diagram of steam room insulation

What material to choose for insulation

Mineral wool slabs and mats are used for walls (ceilings). Properly performed insulation of floors (ceilings) will provide protection against condensation and accumulation of excess moisture. Soft fiberglass mats with aluminum foil will solve this problem. Wood of any species is an excellent finishing material thermal insulation material for walls, floors and ceilings in all rooms of the bathhouse. The main thing is to choose quality wood. Expanded clay, expanded sand, basalt wool and polyisocyanourethane foam (thermopyr) have excellent thermal insulation.

A concrete floor on porous aggregates in the washing room serves as a kind of insulation. This thermal insulation design has little effect on the climate and floor temperature. 30 degrees is quite comfortable for a person. Its main task is to drain water into the sewer. The use of polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) is limited to the walls and ceilings of the dressing room and dressing room. To solve the question of how to insulate a steam room in a bathhouse, you need to know such properties of materials as thermal conductivity and vapor permeability.

The following materials have the lowest thermal conductivity of 10(-4) kW/m x deg:

  1. Still air - 0.24;
  2. Expanded polystyrene - 0.3;
  3. Pine - 1.4.
Thermal insulation in the steam room

Lowest vapor permeability of 10(-6) kg/m x sec x atm:

  • Aluminum foil - 0
  • Steel – 0;
  • Glass – 0;
  • Polyfoam – 0.1:
  • Pine – 2;
  • Expanded clay concrete – 3;
  • Mineral wool – 7.

Various ethylene films, glassine and roofing paper do not allow steam to pass through. Such materials are placed on top of thermal insulation layers in the walls. Roofing paper (glassine) smells unpleasant when heated. Expandable polystyrene is durable (up to 20 years), does not allow moisture to pass through, absorbs it well and prevents the growth of bacteria.


More durable extruded polystyrene is even less moisture permeable

The most popular are multilayer foil insulation such as polystyrene coated on both sides with aluminum foil or foil polyethylene () up to 1.2 cm thick. At a melting point of about 120 degrees, it emits toxic gas. The same effect from foil cardboard and vapor barrier film prevents the accumulation of condensation at the junctions of the thermal insulation of the walls and the ceiling in the steam room.

We insulate the walls, ceiling and floor in the steam room from the inside

How to insulate a steam room in a bathhouse?

Regardless of the material of the walls, ceiling and floor of the steam room (brick, timber or concrete), the main insulating element is the interior finishing with insulation (mineral wool + 1 cm lining). This does not mean that a wall made of timber is not capable of insulation. Heating a steam room made of timber or brick to the required temperature will require more time and heat, since you will have to heat the wood or brick at the same time. A steam room of optimal size made of 15 cm timber will require 120 kWh. heat to heat up to 100 degrees at the ceiling. With an additional layer of 4 cm insulation and 1 cm lining, the heat requirement will become 15 kW. hour. Climatic comfort in a bathhouse depends almost entirely on the steam in the steam room.


The main thermal insulation material for the steam room will be a material with thermal conductivity parameters up to 0.5 x 10(-4) kW/m x deg

It is necessary to raise the finished floor to + 0.150 and the entrance door thresholds to + 0.350.

Insulation of the floor in the steam room

To provide the necessary norm thermal conductivity of the bathhouse enclosing structures is required to reduce heat loss through the floor of the steam room. The steam room is the most heated part of the building, so it is necessary to insulate the floor in the steam room. Considering that in winter the ground freezes to a depth of 1 m, therefore, the better we insulate the floor, the less losses there will be. Under the entire steam room we dig a hole up to 60 cm deep from the level of the clean floor. Having leveled the soil in the pit, we prepare the base with sand 5 cm thick. On the finished base we place a main layer of thermal insulation made of polystyrene foam 20 cm thick. Treat the joints between the sheets with mounting foam or glue for polystyrene foam. We make two layers of 5 cm each from cement mortar mixed with foam chips and vermiculite (50:50).

After the base solution has hardened, we fill it with concrete reinforced with a 10 x 10 cm mesh, grade M 200, 25 cm thick, with iron reinforcement (on the second day of hardening, the surface is sprinkled with a very thin, even layer of dry cement M500) on the upper surface with a slope towards the sewer riser.


After the solution has hardened, fill the base with concrete

Having finished everything construction works(but not earlier than two weeks), laying plank floors. For floors that do not leak, use a floorboard with a quarter slope towards the sewer. Leaky floors are made from floorboards with cracks. It is necessary to provide for the possibility of removing the floor boards for drying in the sun.

In existing bathhouses, the floors can be various designs. The most common types of steam room floors are leaking floors along the ground or into a concrete ventilated funnel (ladder). It is necessary to decide how and with what material you can insulate a leaking floor in a steam room. A do-it-yourself insulation option is to make a concrete floor made of M200 concrete 25 cm thick with thermal insulation made of foam plastic 20 cm thick. Or a floor made of expanded clay concrete with masonry reinforcement mesh 100 x 100 mm. Old sand must be replaced, as it is not capable of being a base for the floor. After finishing concrete works lay a plank, non-leaking floor with water draining into the sewer (as shown in the photo).


Plank floor with drainage

For a leaking floor, reinforce the concrete surface with a slope towards the sewer.

Thermal insulation of ceilings in the steam room

The construction of modern baths and saunas is carried out using reinforced concrete floor slabs. The thermal conductivity of the slabs is not low enough for a steam room. Therefore, to create comfortable temperature additional thermal insulation is required. Bars 10 x 10 cm along the entire length are attached to the slab with dowels at intervals of 50 cm from each other. The bars should press fiberglass or vapor barrier film to the bottom surface of the slab, which prevents condensation from accumulating at the junctions of the thermal insulation of the walls and the ceiling in the steam room. The outermost bars along the perimeter of the steam room should press the fiberglass to the walls.

Basalt or kaolin wool 10 cm thick is laid between the bars. A 1 cm thick lining with nails with flattened heads presses the main vapor barrier layer of foil. On attic additionally arranged vapor barrier film+ thermal insulation made of expanded clay 15 cm thick.


The photo shows the order of the layers of thermal insulation of the ceiling in the bathhouse

Insulation of steam room walls

The walls of the steam room are insulated in the same way as the insulation of floor slabs. When insulating walls made of timber (logs), they require the use of special structural elements. Before properly insulating the walls of a bathhouse in a steam room from the inside, you need to know what deformation occurs with the timber when temperature and humidity change over two years of operation. To compensate for linear expansions, it is necessary to provide sliding fastening supports between the wall material and the material of the insulation structure. The better such supports work, the fewer gaps there will be in the timber wall. If all the walls of the bathhouse are made of timber, then it is necessary to provide for a shrinkage of 20 cm when installing insulation and inserting door and window openings not only for the steam room, but also for the washroom and locker room.


Lathing option

In the 6 x 6 cm vertical bars of the sheathing for the lining, vertical grooves 20 cm long for nails are made every 50 cm. The load-bearing bars of the sheathing with grooves are made vertically every 50 cm. Nails through the slots in the bars are nailed to the wall made of timber, pressing the vapor barrier film, which prevents condensation from accumulating at the joints in the steam room. The nails are placed taking into account the possible shrinkage or swelling of the timber in the middle of the groove when insulating the steam room. And for the remaining walls above the middle of the groove. Does it need to be so complicated?

insulation design? Yes need. This allows you to prevent the log from hanging on the nails of the sheathing after moving it in the grooves of the sheathing, which increases heat loss.

The nails move when they shrink and return when they swell with moisture. Maximum length(20 cm) travel is located under the ceiling. The insulation is cut to size. It should fit snugly against the sheathing bars. It is not recommended to use polyurethane foam in the steam room. Vapor barrier sheets (penofol) are attached with a furniture stapler to the sheathing bars. The surface covered with foil should be directed indoors. Close the joints aluminum tape. For creating air gap Between the vapor barrier and the lining, a counter-lattice made of 2 cm thick bars is used.

Selecting a skin

Is it possible to cover a steam room with plastic rather than wood? Yes. But steaming will not be comfortable. Not even any type of wood is suitable for such premises. Preference is given to linden, alder, aspen and abash. When heated, such wood maintains a temperature of close to 36 degrees, does not darken, and does not burn human skin. After steam treatment, a pleasant smell specific to each tree is released. The choice of wood depends only on the taste of a particular person.


Lining with foil in the steam room

To preserve the characteristic properties of the finish, each element is necessary in advance:

  1. Cut to size;
  2. Plan, rounding the corners of the workpieces;
  3. Sand, drilling the fastening points with nails;
  4. Impregnate with a solution (borax, sodium fluoride);
  5. Dry at a temperature of 60 degrees until the humidity does not exceed 10 degrees;
  6. Saturate the brush generously with a water-repellent compound (heavily diluted PF varnish).

A bathhouse is not just a place where you can wash yourself clean. For a Russian person, a bathhouse is a kind of club, even, if you like, a sanctuary. But even such a sacred place should not be cold and uncomfortable. A Russian bathhouse should hold heat perfectly, retaining it long time. And washing in a room that instantly loses temperature is also not very pleasant. That is why good thermal insulation The design of all rooms in the bathhouse becomes a very important task during its construction. It is necessary to insulate all parts of the bathhouse: the walls and the ceiling, and especially the floor.

How to insulate the floor in a bathhouse

What materials should be used for floor insulation?

Materials for floor insulation

High humidity and temperature, which are constantly present when using a bathhouse, dictate a careful approach to the selection of materials used for thermal insulation of floors. In an ordinary room that does not have such extreme operating conditions, you can use almost any mineral-based insulation. But when thermally insulating the floor in a bathhouse, experienced builders recommend using thermal insulation material with a cellular structure. The most suitable material that meets all high requirements is polystyrene foam of all types. It is widely used for insulating floors in rooms with high humidity.

Scheme of floor insulation with a drain in the bathhouse for drainage

There are several approaches to the question of what material should be used for flooring in bathhouses. So, it can be made of concrete, or it can be made of wood. When insulating floors of all types, there are some general rules, which we will tell you about.

Scheme of the floor arrangement in the bathhouse

We insulate a wooden floor in a bathhouse

In the event that you have to insulate an existing wooden floor, you will first have to dismantle the existing flooring.

Removing old coating

We carry out work according to the following algorithm:

  1. We dismantle floorboards and baseboards. We recommend that you sign the elements you are removing so as not to get confused during further installation.
  2. We check wooden elements. We cut out the damaged areas and replace them with fresh bars of identical dimensions.
  3. We extend the lower edges of the joists with smaller blocks, creating support for the rough floor.
  4. Using cheap lumber we form a rough floor. Leave a gap of about a centimeter between the floor boards and the joists.
  5. We lay the subfloor from scrap boards, leaving small gaps between them in order to prevent the floor from deforming due to temperature deformation. We lay the cuttings of the boards loosely on the joists without securing them.

Scheme for insulating a wooden floor in a bathhouse

We insulate the concrete floor

We insulate the concrete floor

Should be done after laying the rough screed. We proceed according to the following algorithm:

  1. We place waterproofing on the rough screed. As such, you can use ordinary durable polyethylene. We spread the film over the entire floor, extending onto the walls at least 5 centimeters; we can then cut off the excess. Using roll material make an overlap of about 10 centimeters, fixing the joints with tape.
  2. We lay thermal insulation material. Ordinary polystyrene foam can be used as insulation. To fix the foam boards, we form frames from wooden beams and fasten them to the floor with self-tapping screws on dowel plugs.
  3. We fill the foam plates and frame with a fixing solution, then place a reinforcing mesh on top. The thickness of the screed over the foam sheets should be at least 2 centimeters.
  4. After the reinforcing screed has dried, fill in the rough leveling screed. We use a self-leveling mixture; the total thickness of the screed above the foam should reach 5-8 centimeters. We level the finishing screed with a needle roller, removing air bubbles.

Insulation of a concrete floor in a bathhouse

We create a warm water floor in the bathhouse

Water floor in the bathhouse

A good option for insulating the floor in a stationary bathhouse would be to install a warm water floor. We carry out work according to the following scheme:

  1. We prepare the surface for installation work. We eliminate floor defects - chips, protrusions and cracks.
  2. We place thermal insulation material over the entire surface, preventing unnecessary energy consumption.
  3. We fix the damping tape along the walls of the room, preventing the floor from deforming due to thermal expansion.
  4. Place it on the floor reinforcing mesh, lay out the pipe with the coolant liquid, avoiding those places where the floor is not required to be heated. The maximum distance from the pipe to the wall should be 10 centimeters.
  5. When laying the pipeline system, we leave the pipes a certain degree of freedom, ensuring their safety during temperature deformation.
  6. We connect the pipeline system to the heating system using inlet and outlet manifolds. We carefully fix the pipe connections using couplings and windings.
  7. We check the operation of the warm water floor system when maximum power water flow, carefully monitor possible leaks.
  8. If the test results are satisfactory, we form cement screed, first rough and then self-leveling.
  9. We lay an absorbent layer between the screed and the finishing coating, then install the finishing coating.

How to insulate the floor in a bathhouse: 3 methods for insulating the floor with your own hands!


Find out more, How to insulate the floor in a bathhouse with your own hands, step-by-step technology, as well as photos and videos!

How to insulate the floor in a bathhouse with your own hands

The classic Russian bathhouse has always had some special sacred meaning, was considered as a kind of sanctuary. Therefore, it is necessary to approach the process of its arrangement responsibly so that your stay in the bathhouse is comfortable.

We can say for sure that without high-quality insulation gender, it will not be possible to achieve a similar effect.

Materials for floor insulation in a bathhouse

One of the fundamental requirements for a bathhouse is that it has the ability to retain heat. During construction, you will need to direct all your efforts to achieve just such a result. The surface under your feet – that is, the floor – needs especially careful insulation. In this case, polystyrene foam can be used to obtain high thermal insulation. It is suitable for use in rooms with high humidity.

If in ordinary living rooms for suitable for use Almost every heat-insulating material, including mineral, then in a bathhouse it is better to opt for insulation with a cellular structure. When solving the problem of insulating the floor in a bathhouse, they tend to different approaches. For example, the floor can be made of wood or concrete. But at the same time, the same rules for ensuring high-quality thermal insulation are still observed.

Bathroom floor insulation with drainage

1. The floorboards are being dismantled. To avoid problems with putting them in place later, it is best to sign the floorboards.

2. If damaged beams are found, they are completely replaced.

3. The floor joists are built up in such a way that the subfloor receives a reliable foundation.

4. The rough floor is laid. In this case, there should be a gap of 1 cm between the boards used.

5. The subfloor is installed. You can avoid deformation of the boards during expansion if you leave gaps between them.

If the bathhouse was built on aquiferous soil, the insulation will need to be additionally protected with a vapor barrier. When the groundwater is high, a simple roofing material would be appropriate to protect the insulation. It is necessary to lay the insulation layer so that there are no gaps in it, and part of it extends onto the walls.

Insulation of a wooden floor in a bathhouse

The selected thermal insulation material is placed in the free space between the joists. There should be a space of approximately 2 cm between the insulating layer and the top edge of the beams to ensure sufficient ventilation. A sheathing is laid, the distance between the elements of which is about 40 cm. waterproofing membrane. As a result, it separates the sheathing from the thermal insulation.

Floor boards are mounted on top of the formed structure. The pieces of waterproofing material remaining at the edges are trimmed evenly. To ensure that wood elements are well protected from moisture, they should additionally be coated with antiseptics. It is better to do this both in the steam room and in the dressing room.

Insulation of a concrete floor in a bathhouse

1. It is necessary to start thermal insulation work after the screed has been prepared.

2. The set screed is covered waterproofing material, for example, roofing felt or polyethylene.

3. Waterproofing should be positioned so that it extends 5 cm or more onto the walls.

4. When laying roll waterproofing, the sheets are laid with an overlap of 10 cm and secured with tape.

5. Penoplex or polystyrene foam boards are used to create thermal insulation.

6. The thermal insulation layer is poured with a 2 cm layer of concrete and covered with reinforced mesh.

7. When the mixture dries, a finishing screed is formed using a self-leveling mixture. The thickness of the screed should be from 5 to 8 cm.

8. In order for the finishing screed to be completely even, all that remains is to go over it with a needle roller.

Installation of a warm water floor in a bathhouse

You can also ensure comfort in the bathhouse through additional communications. For example, a design called a “warm floor” is suitable for this.

1. The rough surface gets rid of all defects.

2. Thermal insulation material is applied to the base base.

3. Damper tape is laid around the perimeter of the walls.

4. Stacked reinforced mesh and pipes except for those places where there should not be heating.

5. Installation of pipes must be carried out in such a way that they can expand freely when deformed.

6. The laid pipeline is connected to the heating. This requires windings and couplings.

7. The system is checked to prevent leaks.

8. The rough and finishing screed is poured, onto which it is then laid flooring.

By choosing the appropriate method for insulating the floor in a bathhouse, the owner will achieve excellent results. Each of the described methods is relatively simple in design.

How to insulate the floor in a bathhouse with your own hands


How to insulate the floor in a bathhouse with your own hands The classic Russian bathhouse has always had some special sacred meaning and was considered as a kind of sanctuary. Therefore, approach the process

How to insulate the floor in a bathhouse

Optimizing the consumption of firewood and energy in a bathhouse necessarily includes thermal insulation of walls, ceilings and floor insulation. In bathhouses and saunas, the floor is made of concrete or wood, so let's talk about the thermal protection features of both options.

How to insulate the floor in a bathhouse

Insulation of the floor in the bathhouse - main aspects

  1. It is best to lay the heat insulator during the construction stage, otherwise the finished coating will have to be dismantled.
  2. Only non-toxic and non-flammable materials are selected so that when heated, particles hazardous to health are not released and the insulation itself does not ignite.
  3. Optimal insulation thickness: 90-160 mm.

Tools: hammer, stapler, trowel, level, drill mixer.

  • boards 20-30 mm, 50 mm;
  • beams 100 mm;
  • cement-sand mortar;
  • construction tape;
  • vapor barrier or adhesive aluminum tape;
  • waterproofing agent;
  • reinforcing mesh;
  • heat insulator;
  • flooring.

For heated floors, the toolkit is supplemented with everything necessary for installing the heating system.

The approximate time from the start of work to commissioning is 1.5 months.

A few words about insulation

The whole difficulty of the operation lies in the constantly high humidity, which, in combination with high temperatures, has a destructive effect on any floor covering. For some, this moment is an excuse to abandon floor insulation altogether.

Discarding prejudices, we choose non-hygroscopic lightweight materials:

  • extruded polystyrene;
  • perlite (expanded sand);
  • expanded clay;
  • slag;
  • stone wool slabs;
  • glass wool, etc.

Insulating a concrete floor in a bathhouse - instructions

It is customary to begin arranging the floor after the drainage system is completely ready, there is a roof, door blocks, glazed windows and installations. Finishing work.

1. Installation of a concrete slab on the foundation and laying waterproofing

Water-repellent material is supplied both in rolls and in the form of ready-made or dry mixtures, which are diluted with water or special solvents. It is optimal to use both options: first, put hydroglass insulation on the primed and cleaned surface, and then cover it with 2-3 layers of mastic (rubber-bitumen has proven itself to be excellent).

Installing a concrete slab on the foundation and laying waterproofing

2. Laying insulation

Perlite is characterized by low thermal conductivity, high fire resistance and low weight. It is very important that all windows and doors are closed during work - due to drafts, the material may simply fly apart.

  • mix perlite with water in a ratio of 2:1;
  • add cement to the mixture, stir the mixture until smooth;
  • add 0.5 liters of water and add an additional bucket of perlite;
  • Stir until no more water comes out.

The solution is poured onto a concrete slab and spread in a thin layer. Approximate drying time is 7 days. A screed is made on top of the concrete and the floor covering is installed.

The solution is poured onto the concrete slab and spread in a thin layer

Advice! To reduce dust in the room, perlite is sprinkled with cement and slightly moistened with water. Experts recommend placing an absorbent pad (kraft paper, for example) under the insulation layer.

Foam boards (expanded polystyrene)

Foam boards (expanded polystyrene)

Advantages: polystyrene foam does not absorb water, does not contribute to the process of decay, does not become a breeding ground for fungi, does not emit toxic substances and has the lowest thermal conductivity.

The thickness of the slabs should be 10-25 cm. As an alternative to mats, you can use sprayed material. The list of the most popular brands includes:

  • "Penoplex";
  • UrsaXPSNatur-III – heat-sealed surface, grooved on both sides;
  • Ursafoam/Glascofoam – environmentally friendly yellow foam sheets;
  • Natur-III-PZ – corrugated plate with preliminary heat treatment;
  • Roofmate – solid blue slab;
  • Styrodur (durable green boards from the German company BASF).

Foam insulation technology

  1. Prepare the base - compact the soil, cover it with a layer of crushed stone and sand. Spread waterproofing film on top.
  2. Lay foam boards around the entire perimeter, glue them with tape or fill the contact points with polyurethane foam.

Lay foam boards around the entire perimeter, glue them with tape or fill the contact points with polyurethane foam

Important! The more granules are introduced into the solution, the less durable and rigid the floor becomes.

Expanded clay - bulk insulation

Expanded clay is porous and lightweight, making its granules an excellent basis for floor insulation. In order for the fractions to stick together well, it is better to mix granules of different sizes (from 0.16 to 0.40 mm), and you need to buy them in larger volumes than will be needed for work - some of them burst during transportation.

Cement-sand mortar and filler (expanded clay) are mixed in approximately a 2:1 ratio. The exact proportion is determined by the brand of cement and the type of granules. The finished mass should resemble a thick dough. Uniform coating of the granules serves as an indicator of proper mixing.

  1. Beacon slats are installed, then a regular concrete screed is poured.
  2. The time for complete drying and achieving maximum strength is 30 days. Layer height – 100-150 mm.

3. Installation of a “warm floor” system

Installation of a "warm floor" system

The underfloor heating system copes well with the problem of a cold floor in a bathhouse or sauna. But with all the variety of types (electric cable floor, cable on a reinforcing mesh, infrared thermal film, water floor), not everything can be used in such a specific room.

So, cable system it takes 8 hours to fully warm up, and nothing other than linoleum, carpet, laminate or parquet should be placed on top of the thermal film - this is impractical.

The most successful solution for a bath is a water bath underfloor heating floor structure:

  • the pipes can be connected directly to a common boiler and thereby increase energy efficiency;
  • operating costs are kept to a minimum.

4. Styling floor tiles or wooden planks

Laying floor tiles or wood planks

Insulating a wooden floor: step by step

Wood is a traditional material that has been used for centuries to furnish baths; it retains heat well, releases beneficial essential oils, and creates cozy atmosphere. Coniferous species are often found in the dressing room - pine, fir, larch. In steam rooms, aspen or linden is used instead, treated with special non-toxic compounds.

Instead of a floor slab, like a concrete floor, beams are laid, with a cranial beam on top of them. A layer of insulation is laid between them. A mandatory requirement is the installation of layers of vapor barrier (usually glassine) around the heat-insulating material.

For non-leaking floors, adhere to the following insulation laying scheme.

Nailed to the lower parts of the joists cranial bars, and second-rate slats, adjusted in advance to a size slightly smaller than the distance between the two beams (60 cm), are laid on the cranial beam.

The frequency of fastening the slats depends on the type of insulation. For example, 25 cm between the slats is more than enough to hold lightweight polystyrene foam.

Skull blocks are nailed to the lower parts of the joists.

Important point! All subfloor boards must be thoroughly treated with an antiseptic.

All boards for the subfloor must be thoroughly treated with an antiseptic.

A flange must be made between the beams (the width of the board is 25-50 mm), which prevents shifting, torsion and eversion of the wood, especially if it is still damp. There is an indentation at the edges between the flanging and the wall, which is then filled with insulation.

A hydro- and vapor barrier membrane (Izospan can be used) is laid on the first layer of the subfloor. It should extend 20 cm onto the wall. The joints of the sheets are connected with vapor barrier tape, and the protrusions are fixed with a construction stapler.

A hydro- and vapor barrier membrane is laid on the first layer of the subfloor

The second layer of subfloor is installed. If there is no need for it, you can proceed directly to laying the insulation. To do this, the material, if it is in a roll or in the form of slabs, is cut to a width equal to the pitch between the wooden logs + 10 mm. The sheets are placed precisely in the grooves between the beams so that there are no gaps or breaks.

Another waterproofing layer is spread on top. It overlaps, is attached to the joists with a construction stapler, and the joints are taped.

Another waterproofing layer is spread on top

The space remaining between the water drainage pipe and the heat insulator is filled with polyurethane foam.

The finished floor (tongue and groove) is laid, the excess vapor barrier is cut off and the baseboard is installed. For ventilation and drying of the boards, a 3-centimeter gap should remain between the subfloor and the finished floor. To do this, counter battens of the appropriate size are nailed onto the beam.

On a note! Some manufacturers modern building materials offer 2-in-1 solutions: the manufacturer applies a foil layer to the heat insulator on one side. This eliminates the need for additional external waterproofing - just seal the joints with adhesive aluminum tape.

As additional protection against moisture penetration deep into the floor, you can use OSB sheets (moisture-resistant plywood).

OSB sheets can be used as additional protection against moisture penetration deep into the floor.

When giving preference to one or another insulation option, you need to proceed from the area, features of the building, temperature regime and technical characteristics of materials. All the work described is easy to do yourself. The main thing is to follow technology and safety rules!

How to insulate the floor in a bathhouse with your own hands - step-by-step instructions!


Find out how to insulate a bathhouse floor with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction and descriptions, photos + videos. Top tips on insulation and choice of materials.

The floor in the bathhouse warms up the slowest, and often remains cold, even when the steam room is heated hotly. It is especially uncomfortable to feel this in the washroom, where you have to leave the hot steam room with your bare feet. And the sharp difference in temperature in the lower and upper parts of the room does not affect the body in the best possible way. In addition, such conditions negatively affect the indoor microclimate and contribute to wood rotting. Getting rid of these problems is not difficult - just do high-quality thermal insulation.

Let's look at how to insulate the floor in a bathhouse in a washroom and what is needed for this.

The washing compartment is exposed to moisture and temperature changes more than other rooms in the bathhouse, especially in frosty winters. While bathing, a person can go from the steam room to the wash room several times and vice versa, letting hot air into the room. A lot of water is used for dousing, and all of it goes through the floor, simultaneously penetrating into the pores of the wood.

Since the bathhouse is heated only periodically, the water remaining in the floor boards or concrete base, then freezes, then melts again, gradually destroying the materials.

Such features of the room determine certain requirements for floors:

  • they should facilitate efficient drainage of water - by sloping towards the drain or by allowing moisture to pass through themselves;
  • have increased strength and low absorbency;
  • be resistant to rotting and sudden temperature changes;
  • not be slippery when wet;
  • heat up and dry quickly.

To provide the necessary conditions, even at the construction stage it is necessary to provide correct device floor structures, ventilation of the entire room and underground space, perform high-quality thermal insulation and select materials correctly.

Types of floors in the washroom

Three types of floors are optimally suitable for a washing room: solid wood, leaking wood and concrete tiled. The insulation of each of them has its own nuances, due to the design features.

This is the most traditional version for a bath, it is also the warmest. Natural wood It has a pleasant texture, environmental safety and low thermal conductivity, which means a lot for such a room. The wood used is predominantly coniferous: it is least susceptible to rotting and other negative impacts. The resin contained in the boards does not protrude outward, since the air in the washing room does not heat up as much as in the steam room.

Installing a solid floor is quite labor-intensive. There are no removable elements provided here, and therefore they are put forward to organize the ventilation system special requirements. The base of the floor can be compacted soil or concrete screed.

The floor system consists of joists, sheathing and the flooring itself, with mandatory waterproofing between these elements. The insulation is located between the logs, which are installed strictly in a horizontal plane, and the required slope is created using the sheathing.

Expanded clay, dense foam plastic, mineral wool can be used as insulation - the hygroscopicity of the material does not play a special role if it is reliably waterproofed on both sides. To prevent water from penetrating through the flooring, it is recommended to use tongue-and-groove boards and treat them with a water-repellent compound before using the floor.

To ventilate the underground space, a plastic pipe with a diameter of 50 to 100 mm is installed from the outside.

Leaking floor

A leaking, or pouring, floor is easier to make and will cost less. Unlike solid floors, the floorboards here do not slope, and water flows over the entire area through narrow gaps between the floorboards. To drain used water, a pit is made at the base under the floor, from which a pipe is laid at a slope towards the sewer.

If the bathhouse is used irregularly, the base of the floor can be compacted soil or a sand-crushed stone cushion through which water will seep into the ground. The floor joists are laid on concrete pillars to protect the wood from negative influences.

With frequent use, the floor structure must be more reliable, so the base is filled with a concrete screed with a slope towards the drain.

The flooring itself cannot be insulated, because there must be space under the boards for water to drain, but if desired, you can insulate the base of the floor. To do this, use concrete with a heat-insulating filler or fill it with expanded clay under the screed.

Only a few vents are left around the perimeter of the base for ventilation; the rest of the space is closed to prevent drafts.

If the bathhouse is built on pillars or piles, insulation is carried out without adding expanded clay. To do this, make a rough flooring from boards and lay mineral wool or other insulation between the joists, which must be covered on both sides with waterproofing material. Next, install the sheathing at a slope towards the drain, and fix the sheets on top of stainless steel with an overlap, and then the leaking flooring is installed. This design requires more cost and effort, but the floor is reliably protected from blowing and cold.

Concrete floors with lining

This option is the most durable and reliable. The tiles are excellent for washing, they are easy to clean, do not require special care and always look aesthetically pleasing, and the concrete screed provides the necessary strength to the floor. The disadvantage of these materials is that they are cold, so you can’t do without insulation.

Traditionally, such a floor is installed in the following order:

  • a layer of broken brick, crushed stone or gravel at least 15 cm thick is poured onto the compacted soil;
  • pour the rough screed;
  • lay a layer of waterproofing and insulation;
  • cover the insulation with another layer of waterproofing and lay the reinforcing mesh;
  • pour the finishing screed;
  • tiling is carried out.

The organization of drainage is carried out at the initial stage of arranging the screed, and the foundation is poured at a slope to the side drain ladder. Expanded clay or penoplex are most often used as insulation; mineral wool is not intended for such loads.

Choice of insulation

The choice of insulation for a washroom should be approached very responsibly, taking into account the specific operating conditions of the room. Preference should be given to materials with low hygroscopicity and resistance to decay, even if reliable waterproofing is installed. There are several types of insulation that are best suited for bathhouse floors.

MaterialCharacteristics

This slab insulator is suitable for both wood and concrete floors. It is moisture resistant, easy to style, different affordable price. Polystyrene boards have very low thermal conductivity, so the floor does not freeze and warms up quickly when the bathhouse starts to be heated. The only negative is that this material is easily damaged by mice, so if there are rodents, you should use a different insulation

This material is an improved version of foam plastic, therefore it is significantly superior to it in all respects. It is absolutely not afraid of moisture, retains heat perfectly, has a long service life and does not emit harmful substances. It is more expensive than polystyrene foam, but the cost of the material is fully compensated by its reliability and durability

This material is used for insulating wooden structures. For greater effect, it is recommended to use foil-coated cotton wool. Since cotton wool tends to absorb water, special attention should be paid to waterproofing the insulating layer. It must be completely sealed, otherwise the material will lose its heat-insulating properties

Bulk insulation, often used as a filler for concrete screed. It has high thermal insulation properties and low weight, which allows you to effectively insulate a concrete floor without large loads on the base. Does not rot, is not damaged by rodents, has a long service life

The most environmentally friendly insulation. Available in the form of porous granules of various fractions, suitable for both concrete and wooden floors. Needs high-quality waterproofing. This insulation does not burn, does not rot, and is not damaged by mice. When installing a floor with a slope, it is backfilled using guides

Prices for thermal insulation penoplex

Penoplex thermal insulation

What are the difficulties of insulating floors in a bathhouse? A bathhouse is a structure with high levels of humidity and temperature; for comfortable water procedures, certain conditions should be created in them. temperature conditions throughout the entire volume of premises, taking into account both the design features of the building and the materials used for the construction of individual elements. There is another significant distinctive characteristic of baths - the conditions for using a relaxation room and a steam room are so different that this has a decisive influence on the building materials and technologies used during their construction.

For the southern regions of our country, the problem of insulation is not relevant, but in the northern regions, cold floors create significant difficulties. This concerns not only large heat losses from the interior, but also unpleasant sensations during washing. The cold has a particularly negative effect on young children; they are constantly either on the floor or in close proximity to it. Bringing a cold child home from the bathhouse is not the biggest problem.

In the article we will consider several methods used for insulating floors in a bathhouse, taking into account the purpose of the premises and features construction technologies. Insulation solutions will vary; you will need to make your own choice, taking into account the characteristics of your bathhouse, personal preferences and financial capabilities.

Insulating a floor with a screed on the ground - diagram

This method can be used for various bath premises and is characterized by good efficiency and reliability. We will consider the most complex multi-layer insulation option, and you can simplify it a little for yourself and refuse some work. It all depends on climate zone accommodation.

Step 1. Make the markings.

The height of the last covering should be at the level of the subfloor; this must be remembered during marking. Therefore, take into account the number of layers of screed, the features of the insulation, etc. Use a hydraulic level to mark the subfloor mark on the walls and make marks from it for each layer in the reverse order.

In our case, this will be a dry concrete screed (about 5 centimeters), a layer of foam concrete (about 10 centimeters), a layer of expanded clay (about 15 centimeters) and a sand cushion (about 15 centimeters).

Foam concrete - structure

You can add insulation from pressed polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam, replace one of the insulating layers we named with them, etc.



Thickness is also not a dogma, we cannot know your specific conditions. But you must make vertical marks for each layer; constantly monitor the thickness of the layers made. Otherwise, the floor height in each separate room the baths will be different.

Step 2. Level the ground at a depth determined according to our advice. You need to level it with a shovel “by eye”. If you wish, you can check the horizontality with a level.



Step 3. Add a layer of dry sand. It will absorb vertical loads during soil heaving. Compact the sand using any available means. Under no circumstances should you pour water on it to shrink it! Apart from harm, this “technology” does nothing.


Sand pillow – photo


Step 4. Add a layer of expanded clay. You can replace it with slag or other porous production waste. At the lowest level, it is better to use durable and moisture-resistant insulation; they cope well with all the adverse effects that arise during operation.


Slag – photo

Step 5. Fill the expanded clay with foam concrete.

This is an excellent material in all respects. It is made only from cement and sand in a ratio of 1:3; the porous structure is obtained by adding special additives. They can be purchased at construction stores.

Important. Do not purchase such additives from open warehouses; the additives lose their characteristics after freezing. Not a single seller will talk about this, and you won’t know it by touch. The point is that according to appearance foam concrete made using low-quality additives is almost no different from normal. Only after it cools down will it be discovered that the material has almost no strength and crumbles under the slightest load.

Video - Pouring the floor with foam concrete

Step 6. For the foam concrete to harden, you need to wait two to three days, after which work can continue. There are two options here - lay the finishing flooring on it immediately or make a cement-sand screed. We recommend the second option; in terms of time and finances, the top screed should not scare away developers. And the strength and reliability of the coating increases significantly.

Step 7 Screed.

It is advisable to place it on a reinforcing mesh, the mesh size is about five centimeters, the thickness of the wire does not matter. It is better to make the screed with dry concrete. It is much easier to work with, it has good heat-protective properties, the cost and consumption of dry concrete is much lower than that of ordinary concrete.

Semi-dry floor screed - mortar

“What is it and how is it made”? Dry concrete differs from ordinary concrete in the much smaller amount of water; when squeezing it in the hand, water should not appear between the fingers, and the shape should be retained. In this simple way, the relative humidity of the material is checked.

For production, you should use only sand and cement, the proportions are 1:4; you can prepare the mixture either manually or using a concrete mixer. The second method is easier physically, but requires experience. The fact is that the inability to prepare such a solution will lead to the formation of balls of different diameters in the concrete mixer instead of a homogeneous granular mixture. This is not critical, but it significantly complicates further work and somewhat reduces physical characteristics screed strength. And dry screed does not have very high load-bearing properties. To prevent balls from forming during mixing, you must first pour water into the concrete mixer, then cement, and only lastly sand, and not vice versa.

How to work with such material?

Step 1. Place a reinforcing mesh on the foam concrete and place beacons on it; the screed should be as level as possible.

Beacons are installed using a level or a stretched rope. As beacons, you can use ordinary wooden slats of appropriate height, industrial metal beacons, or make them yourself from a dry mixture. The last method is the most universal and of the highest quality, but it is used only by professional, experienced builders.

First, you need to make several pyramids of dry concrete in level, their height should be slightly higher than the thickness of the screed.

Using a trowel, carefully remove the top of the pyramid at the calculated height and level the upper plane. Next, you should suspend work until the next day, let the solution harden a little. The next day, pour narrow strips of solution between the individual cut pyramids. A flat wooden lath or a long level is placed on two adjacent pyramids and the horizontal position of the poured strip is beaten off. Such operations need to be done for all beacons. The advantage of such beacons is that the surface is absolutely identical, there are no places with reduced strength. After all, metal or wooden beacons will have to be removed from the solution and the resulting cracks will have to be sealed. The strength of the screed in these places decreases.

One more tip. If you need to make beacons very quickly, after leveling, sprinkle them with dry cement, carefully remove the cement that has absorbed moisture and repeat the operation again. This simple method will allow you to use the beacons an hour or two after production. True, the strength will not be very good; you will have to work very carefully with the leveling bar.

Step 2. Start work on one side of the room. You shouldn’t pour a lot of solution at once; depending on your dexterity and ability to work, take 3–4 wheelbarrows. Use a shovel to level the dry concrete to an approximate height level.

Step 3. You need to level the solution in height along the beacons with an even strip. If there are holes, pour the solution into them. Next, work with a smoothing iron. Experienced builders screed 30 square meters or more in one day using this method. If you reach a productivity of 5÷10 m2, great, this is exactly the area of ​​the bathhouse premises.

To guarantee the tightness of the insulation, you can place a layer of waterproofing made of any material over the foam concrete.

Step 4. The finishing coating on dry concrete can be applied on the second day, which greatly speeds up the construction of the bathhouse. It is best to use ceramic tiles, but this is not necessary.

Prices for reinforcing mesh

reinforcement mesh

Extruded durable foam sheets or pressed mineral wool can be used as insulation. Concrete covering By technical parameters must meet the requirements of SNiP 2.03.13–88.

SNiP 2.03.13–88. SP 29.13330.2011. Floors. File for download

Industrial or home-made concrete slabs can be used as flooring. Factory-made concrete floors have special holes to reduce heat losses, which makes it possible to obtain warmer floors. To improve the characteristics of ordinary concrete, you can dilute part of the gravel or crushed stone fraction with porous materials during its production. The strength of the concrete will decrease slightly, but this will not have any noticeable negative effect on the floors.



It is very difficult to pour a floor slab yourself; it is much cheaper to use a ready-made one. In this regard, we will not even talk about how the process of pouring concrete floors is carried out.

Be sure to inspect the floor slabs before work

Check the condition of the ceiling, remove all large protrusions.

If the size of the nervousness exceeds acceptable standards, it is necessary to make a screed. We advise you to do it on concrete liquid screed cement-sand mortar. Although in terms of physical strength it is somewhat inferior to the usual ones, it is done much faster and easier.

How to make liquid screed?

Step 1. Inspect the surface of the reinforced concrete slabs, bend the protruding metal rings, caulk or simply fill large gaps in the joints between the slabs with any available materials.

Step 2. Prepare a solution for the screed. To prepare it, you can take four to five parts of sand to one part of cement. Water must be added until the solution reaches the consistency of sour cream, but not fatty, but ordinary. When pouring onto a flat surface, most of the solution should spread independently under the influence of gravity.

Step 3. Prepare For these purposes, you can buy special metal ones in the store, they are quite convenient to work with.

If it is not possible to use store-bought ones, ordinary wooden even blocks 2÷3 centimeters thick are suitable for beacons. True, the wooden blocks need to be secured with dowels to the slab, otherwise they will move during the pouring of concrete.

If metal beacons lie unstable on the surface of the slab, fasten them too. The distance between the beacons should be slightly less than the length of the leveling bar with which the mortar will be leveled. Place the slats first in the corners of the room, and then place the rest along the rope stretched between them.





Beacon installation - installer

Step 4. Pour the solution into buckets onto the slab one at a time, and immediately level it with the level of the beacons using a lath.

The work is done quickly, no special physical effort is required. The entire room is flooded - leave it to cool for at least a day. You can significantly speed up and facilitate the process of leveling the solution; you don’t have to work in a bent position all the time. To do this, you need to make a simple device - a leveling bar with a long handle.

How it's done?

  1. For the slats, select a flat board approximately 10 mm thick, 100 mm wide and 50÷60 cm longer than the distance between the beacons.
  2. Select a block of approximately 30x30 mm, 2 meters long. The surface needs to be sanded a little to avoid injury during work. From the same block, prepare two pieces 30 centimeters long, cut the ends of the pieces at an angle of 45°.
  3. Secure a long block in the center of the board with a self-tapping screw; it will serve as a handle. Fix the pieces on both sides of the block and attach the other ends to the board.

With this device, you can not only level the liquid solution much faster, but also get tired much less. The main condition for working with any leveling slats is that they must always lie on two beacons. Keep an eye on this; slipping of the surface of the board from the beacons leads to the formation of craters, and you will have to waste extra effort and time to level them.

Step 5. After a day, you can remove the beacon slats or leave them in the solution; this will not affect the characteristics of the insulated floor.

Step 6. To finally align the screed, you need to once again go through the lath in a transverse direction to the previous one. The fact is that small waves 1÷3 millimeters high will inevitably remain on the surface of the screed after the lath. It is impossible to say exactly when to do the final alignment. It all depends on the speed of drying of the solution, and the speed, in turn, is affected by the composition of the solution, temperature and humidity in the room. “Readiness” should be defined practically. If the solution can support the weight of the builder, then final leveling can be done. Let’s say right away that it is advisable to do this operation under penoplex slabs, but not necessary.

Prices for cement-sand mixture

cement-sand mixture

Insulation

On ready-made screed Penoplex sheets are laid, making sure that there are no gaps between the joints. It is better to lay them with a little force; the edges will be slightly deformed and will “seal” the joints hermetically.

There is no need to protect the insulation from below, but waterproofing should be placed on top. For these purposes, use any of the modern waterproofing materials or ordinary polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 30 microns. Next, you need to protect the upper surface of the penoplex from excessive loads and distribute the forces over the maximum area. This can be done using a reinforced screed. Now it only needs to be done semi-dry, some call such a solution dry, there is no difference, every builder uses the terminology familiar to him. But all professionals understand this terminology; get used to speaking not only in bookish language.

Penoplex prices

penoplex

How to make a dry (semi-dry) screed on insulation?

Step 1. Prepare a solution of sand and cement. You can prepare it manually or in a concrete mixer. Two methods are fundamentally different technologies, let's consider both. For a dry mixture, you need to take 4 ÷ 5 parts sand for one part of cement. The sand must be sifted, without large inclusions. Pebbles will create inconvenience when grouting the surface.

Preparation of dry mortar manually.

  1. On a flat surface (in most cases, a sheet of metal approximately 1.5 x 1.5 meters in size is used under it), pour sand and cement in the center. Mix the mixture thoroughly with a shovel, do not allow individual lumps of cement or sand to appear, pour it in a pointed pyramid in the center of the sheet.
  2. Make a cut cone from the pyramid with a funnel inside. Water will be added to this funnel. Very important! There must be a shaft of the mixture around the circumference of the entire cone, otherwise the water will flow out.
  3. Add water to the cone in small portions and immediately mix the mixture with a shovel. Do not add a lot of water; the finished solution should be easily compressed in your fist without releasing water between your fingers.
  4. In this way, gradually stir all the dry ingredients. If you made a slight mistake with the amount of water, then you need to add sand or liquid to it, depending on the consistency of the mass.

In a concrete mixer, dry mortar is prepared differently. First, the entire portion of cement dissolves in the entire volume of water. After complete dissolution, sand is added and the mixture is brought to the desired state. If you do not follow our recommendations, the concrete mixer will hit you great amount cement-sand balls. This, of course, is not fatal, but it is much more difficult to work with them.

The solution is ready - start making a dry screed with reinforcement on the insulation.

Prepared base - film and mesh laid

Step 1. Install beacons, we described how this is done a little higher. Prepare a piece of flat board for yourself - you will place it under your knees while working. You will have to level the screed on your knees.

Step 2. Pour several buckets of the mixture more or less evenly onto the area between the beacons, and use a shovel or trowel to level it out a little.

Step 3. Lower your knees onto the prepared board and level the mixture to the level of the beacons with an even slate. The collected solution accumulates near the knees, the path lies there, you will need it during the final grouting of the screed.

Step 4. When leveling with a lath, gaps will certainly form; with a trowel, take the mortar that has accumulated at the knees and throw it with small tubercles into the holes.

Important: do not generally use a small board to level out large uneven areas; its edges should lie on flat areas.

And one more note. Place the board exactly in the middle of the poured mound of mixture, press gradually, without fanaticism. Tool movements should always be only circular, never make straight-line movements. At first you will have little experience; a hole will again form in place of the tubercle. It's not scary, add a little dry mixture again and start all over again. Believe me, after an hour or two of work, things will go much faster and better.

Step 5. Having prepared a section approximately 50 centimeters long in this way, proceed to completely level the piece of floor. Do not leave too large surfaces for smoothing; they are difficult to reach, and this is very tiring for your back and arm.

Step 6. While working, keep a bucket of water and a brush at hand at all times. Using a brush, you will need to slightly moisten the surface of the screed from time to time, this will make it much easier to smooth out the dry mortar. Just wet with “feeling”, do not overdo it, do not turn a dry solution into a wet one.

Step 7 Before leveling, do not forget to put metal mesh for reinforcement. The mesh should be in the middle of the solution, keep this in mind. The thickness of the mesh wire is within 0.5 mm, the wire must be galvanized. If in some places the wire is visible on the top layer of the screed, it is not a problem; the strength of the reinforcement is quite sufficient to withstand the loads present in residential premises.

A semi-dry screed dries much faster than a wet one, so you can continue working the next morning.

This is if you are in a hurry. If not, then it is better to moisten the screed generously with water in the morning and leave it for another day to dry. Wetting with water will significantly increase the strength of the dry screed.

The cement has set - proceed to the finishing floor coverings. You can use any type of flooring you like, from ordinary wood to tiles. This flooring base falls into the category of universal use.

Insulation by joists

Rolled or pressed mineral wool, foam plastic or bulk materials can be used as insulation.

Step 1. The so-called “skull bars” need to be nailed to the bottom of the floor beams; the size of the bars is 20x20 mm. The subfloor will lie on them.

Installation of cranial bars for rolling: A – from scraps; B – from bars; B – reinforced with metal brackets; D – using longitudinal samples

Step 2. Can be used for subfloors unedged boards, pieces of plywood or OSB, the subfloor does not need to be made solid, leave a gap of up to five centimeters between the boards, this will reduce the amount of materials, but the quality will not suffer.

A vapor barrier must be installed on the subfloor. The fact is that in an underground house there is always high humidity; moisture or condensation on insulation or wooden structures is prohibited.

Step 3. Fill the space between the floor beams with insulation, making sure that the material lies evenly without gaps or cracks.

Laying insulation - photo

Step 4. The top of the insulation should be protected with any waterproofing material. Choose not by price, but by quality. A lot of expensive “promoted” materials on waterproofing characteristics no different from cheaper competitors. The high price is explained by the high qualifications of advertising agency employees.

The thickness of the insulating layer must be at least ten centimeters, otherwise the effect will be insignificant. There are options for insulation over joists on a concrete base. The insulation technology has no fundamental differences. The only difference is that wooden joists need to be placed on a flat cement base, and thermal insulation is laid between them. It goes without saying that the joists should be insulated from the concrete insulating materials, and the insulation on top is also covered with waterproofing.

Prices for waterproofing material

waterproofing material

Video - Floor insulation using joists

If you plan to insulate the floors in the bathhouse in advance, then the work can be simplified and cheaper. To do this, reduce the distances between the floor beams. For standard cases, beams are installed under the joists at a distance of approximately one meter. Then logs and flooring are installed on them. Reduce the distance between the floor beams to 50÷60 centimeters; use ordinary 50×150 mm boards for their manufacture. Then the insulation will be located in the niches of the beams, and the finishing floor covering can be laid on the upper plane.

Another very important note. If, without insulating the floors in the bathhouse, we always only recommended using antiseptics for the lower wooden structures, then in the case of insulation, construction standards already oblige them to be chemically protected from damage by fungi and rot.

Floor insulation with liquid foam plastic (penoizol) or polyurethane foam

Quite a new technology, universally usable, highly efficient and durable. Disadvantage: not recommended for residential use.

IN Lately for insulation with this material there is no need to contact specialized construction companies. Portable equipment has appeared in the implementation, which makes it possible to perform all the work independently.

Video - Equipment for liquid insulation

Liquid insulation can be used on both concrete and wooden bases, they have excellent adhesion to all types of building materials. Another undoubted advantage is that the top layer of liquid insulation, after hardening, becomes smooth and continuous, which prevents moisture from penetrating inside.

We will consider the option of insulating floors with liquid insulation along joists.

Step 1. Clean surfaces from dust and construction waste. Liquid insulation should only be applied to clean surfaces. Another very important condition is that all wooden structures must be dry. If you fill damp joists, they will completely rot in just a few years, and unscheduled floor replacement costs quite a lot of money. Before starting work, it is advisable to specially dry the materials in a separate warm room.

Step 2. Wooden structures should be protected from moisture penetration from below; for this, use any materials. For example, ordinary cheap polyethylene film By operational characteristics is in no way inferior expensive materials foreign production.

Step 3. Carefully apply a layer of liquid insulation.

Very important! The insulation materials contain chemically aggressive substances; work only with a complete set protective equipment: mask, goggles, protective clothing, etc. After drying and completion of chemical reactions, these substances evaporate from the material. Before continuing work, ventilate the room well; such precautions will minimize the risk of unpleasant situations.

Step 4. Cover the insulation layer with boards, sheet plywood or OSB boards, install the finishing flooring. If there is a high probability of water getting on the insulation, then you can cover it with waterproofing material for insurance.

Another advantage of liquid insulation is that it can be used on all surfaces without prior leveling. This always significantly reduces the work time, and in some cases this method is considered the only possible due to the unsatisfactory condition of the surfaces.

Insulation using traditional methods

We warn you that traditional methods of floor insulation can hardly be considered effective by modern standards. In addition, they require a lot of time and physical labor. But there are developers who prefer to build baths only using ancient traditional technologies.

InsulationDescription

For floor insulation, only rye straw is used; wheat straw is not suitable - it rots quickly. In addition, rodents love this kind of straw. The straw must be chopped and mixed with clay in a 1:1 ratio. The clay should be liquid. You have to mix with your feet or by hand. Minimum thickness insulation 20 centimeters. The liquid solution is placed on an earthen base, leveled and left to dry.

The preparation process is no different from the version with straw. Sawdust can be taken from any type of wood, but coniferous ones are better. They contain resinous natural substances that significantly slow down the decay process.

You can use slag, expanded clay, waste from brick factories, etc. The materials are usually poured onto the ground. A layer of clay at least ten centimeters thick is compacted on top.

Due to the fact that bathhouses have unfavorable operating conditions from the point of view of wooden building elements, insulation must be approached very carefully. For wooden structures, the main condition for long-term operation is relative humidity and the presence of natural ventilation. Any hydro- or vapor barrier almost completely eliminates natural ventilation elements of wooden coverings, the consequences of this situation are known. That's one problem. There is one more.

No coating guarantees 100% protection against moisture penetration. Such situations may arise due to a violation of the technology for laying waterproof layers or due to their mechanical damage. Any damage allows moisture to penetrate the wooden structures, but does not allow them to dry quickly. Added to high humidity heat, the combination of these factors significantly accelerates all destructive processes in wood.

Is it cold to stand on the floor in a bathhouse for a long time? Try making ordinary wooden gratings or purchasing beautiful mats made from rubberized materials in the store. Such insulation of “cold” floors will be the fastest, cheapest, most versatile and reliable.


Floor grate for baths and saunas

The service life of the bathhouse itself and its extensions depends on how professionally and correctly the floors in the bathhouse are built. One of the main functions of the floor is to quickly drain water outside the room; this function is usually performed by drain hole. The material for floors can be different: wood, concrete, clay.

Wooden floors are very common due to their availability, but, as a rule, they are not very durable, as they do not tolerate high humidity and high temperature of the steam room. Even the highest quality wooden floor, made from expensive wood, begins to rot and collapse over time.

And one of the cheapest and warmest floors, clay, does not allow moisture to pass through at all. After water gets on it, the clay begins to swell, and when it dries, it begins to crack. Water that gets into cracks stagnates and emits bad smell mold.

Considering all of the above, the most preferred material For a bath floor, a concrete screed is considered. This applies to the steam room, but in the relaxation room and dressing room you can also make a wooden floor. As a rule, both concrete and wooden floors are insulated.

Undoubtedly, to maintain constant temperature In a bathhouse, floor insulation does not have much effect. In this case, the main role is played by the insulation of the walls and ceiling, but there is also a small heat leakage through the floor, and most importantly, we walk on it with our feet, therefore, the floors in the bathhouse must be warm. In a steam room, where the temperature is very high, we may not feel the cold coming from the floor, but in other rooms of the bathhouse the cold floor will be very noticeable.

Construction of insulated concrete floor:

  1. Foundation.
  2. Concrete floor.
  3. The insulation layer is usually extruded polystyrene foam.
  4. Concrete screed with reinforcement (mesh).
  5. Adhesive with underfloor heating system.
  6. Ceramic tile.

Insulation with perlite

Since concrete floors are very easy to maintain, they are most often made in the steam room and washing room. Before laying, the entire water drainage system must be installed. Windows are also glazed, doorways are installed, and all finishing work is carried out. The following method of insulating a concrete floor has proven itself very well - laying two layers of concrete screed, and between them a layer of thermal insulation (expanded clay, glass wool, perlite).

Perlite is a fairly lightweight material with low thermal conductivity. Structurally, perlite is ordinary sand, expanded using a special technology. When you insulate a bathhouse using perlite, you must keep the room closed, because under the influence of the wind, perlite can easily fly away in all directions. The technology for floor insulation with perlite is as follows:

  1. Two buckets of perlite are mixed with one bucket of water.
  2. Cement is added to the mixture and everything is thoroughly mixed.
  3. As soon as you get a homogeneous consistency, add another bucket of perlite and about half a liter of water to the mixture.
  4. The resulting mixture is stirred until water appears from it - this is a sign that the composition is ready for floor insulation.
  5. Now the first layer of concrete is laid thin layer insulation and leave until dry.
  6. After curing for seven days, a second concrete screed is made on top of the insulation.

Thus, you get an excellent layer of thermal insulation that is not susceptible to rotting and other harmful environmental factors.

Insulation using polystyrene

For more effective insulation For flooring today, modern material with a low thermal conductivity coefficient is used - polystyrene. Due to its cellular structure, this material has zero water absorption and retains its heat-insulating functions for a long time.

Since polystyrene is a material with a closed cell structure, moisture cannot penetrate into it, unlike insulation materials that have a fibrous or open cell structure. The low thermal conductivity of polystyrene is maintained even with significant mechanical damage.

Thermal insulation of floors in a bathhouse with polystyrene is especially important if the building is built of brick, since brick is a good conductor of moisture from the soil and external environment. Since ceramic tiles are usually laid on the concrete floor of a bathhouse, which implies the presence of a thick concrete screed, the slabs used for floor insulation must be especially resistant to compression. The following brands have proven themselves very well: Ursafoam, Styrodur, Ursa XPS Natur 3.

Since thermal insulation in a bathhouse must be environmentally friendly, the use of expanded polystyrene in this case is more than justified. After all, expanded polystyrene is obtained in the process of foaming, through the usual carbon dioxide, therefore it does not contain harmful reagents containing freon. In addition, foam boards are perfectly cut with conventional tools, which is very convenient when working.

However, despite the relative resistance of foam boards to compression, they must be mounted only on a flat substrate. Moreover, due to its low specific gravity polystyrene foam boards do not weigh down the ceiling and foundation of the bathhouse. And the fact that there is virtually no waste in the process of floor insulation with foam plastic ensures the minimum cost of all work.

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The technology using foam plastic boards has several stages. Once the foundation and waterproofing of the walls have been made, it is necessary to reliable waterproofing floor. After this, foam plastic slabs are laid on the floor, and on top of them are reinforcing mesh and concrete screed.

You can lay ceramic tiles on the concrete screed or leave them as is. The thickness of such a “pie” can be 10/15 centimeters, but a more effective layer is 25 centimeters, which will ensure minimal heat loss through the floor in a damp bathhouse.

Insulation of a wooden floor in a bathhouse

Despite the fact that a concrete floor is practically eternal, many developers prefer to build wooden floors, since a wooden floor is much more environmentally friendly and has excellent thermal insulation. And if a wooden floor is properly thermally insulated and prepared, it will last for a very long time.

For wooden floors, boards made of spruce, fir, larch and pine are used. Under no circumstances should you use boards made of poplar, linden, aspen or oak. Before laying, the boards must be treated with a special antiseptic to protect against fungus and rot. This mainly applies to the floor for the rest room and dressing room, and the boards intended for flooring in the steam room do not need to be treated, as the chemicals will begin to evaporate and poisoning is possible.

Construction of insulated wooden floor:

  1. Foundation.
  2. Floor beams.
  3. Skull beam.
  4. Vapor barrier layer.
  5. Rough floor.
  6. Insulation (extruded polystyrene foam).
  7. Waterproofing layer.
  8. Clean floor board.

Bathroom floors made from removable floors are very popular. wooden planks. As soon as the floor boards get wet, they are removed and taken out to dry, and other boards, already dry, are laid in their place. In addition, you can insulate a wooden floor with mineral wool mats, pre-stitched on paper with a synthetic base, as well as slag, expanded clay, sand and fiberglass mats.

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Wooden floors may or may not leak. Both types have both advantages and disadvantages, so the developer chooses one or another type of floor depending on the structural features of the building. Very often, subfloors are built only in the dressing room and rest room, since the humidity in these rooms is not as high as in a steam room or shower.

In this case, floor insulation begins with the removal of the wooden floor trim, then the skull beam is nailed onto the beams and a layer of vapor barrier (glassine) is laid. Then rough boards are laid, and the space between the beams is filled with thermal insulation material.

The final operation is laying out waterproofing and organizing slopes for water drainage.