DIY wind generators. Do-it-yourself wind turbines for home - which model is the most suitable? Product design and principle of operation

We talked about that in one of the past materials. Today, your attention will be presented to the models of wind turbines, built by users of our portal. We will also share useful tips to help you build the installation and avoid mistakes. Building a wind generator with your own hands is a difficult task. Not every (even experienced) practitioner can deal with its solution flawlessly. However, any error detected in time can be corrected. That's what the head and hands are for the master.

The article addresses the following questions:

• What materials and what drawings can be used to make wind turbine blades.
• Assembly procedure for the axial generator.
• Is it worth remaking a car generator for wind turbines and how to do it correctly.
• How to protect a wind turbine from the storm.
• At what height to install the wind generator.

Blade manufacturing

If you do not yet have experience in making screws for home wind turbines on your own, we recommend not looking for complicated solutions, but using a simple method that has proven its effectiveness in practice. It consists in the manufacture of blades from an ordinary PVC sewer pipe. This method is simple, affordable, and cheap.

Michael26 FORUMHOUSE user

Now about the blades: made from 160th red sewer pipe with a foamed inner layer. I did it according to the calculation shown in the photo.

The "red" pipe was mentioned by the user for a reason. It is this material that holds its shape better, is resistant to temperature extremes and lasts longer (in comparison with gray PVC pipes).

Most often in home wind power, pipes with a diameter of 160 to 200 mm are used. You should start your experiments with them.

The shape and configuration of the blades are parameters that depend on the diameter of the pipe from which they are made, on the diameter of the propeller, on the speed of the working propeller and other design characteristics. In order not to bother yourself with aerodynamic calculations, you can use the one posted by its author on our portal. It will allow you to determine the geometry of the blades, substituting your own values ​​in the calculation table (pipe diameter, propeller speed, etc.).

Michael26

I got used to sawing with a jigsaw. It turns out really quickly and efficiently. Note: Be sure to place a large free play on the jigsaw so that the file does not bite or break.

Axial generator design

When making a choice between a three-phase or single-phase generator, it is better to opt for the first option. The three-phase power source is less susceptible to vibrations due to uneven load, and allows you to obtain constant power at the same rotor speed.

BOB691774 FORUMHOUSE user

Single-phase generators are not worth winding: they have been tested and proven in practice for a long time. Only in three phases can decent generators be obtained.

The calculated parameters of the generator, which we talked about in our previous material, are determined by the current needs for electricity. And so that in practice they correspond to the volume of the generated power, the design of the axial generator must meet certain requirements:

1. The thickness of all discs (rotor and stator) must be equal to the thickness of the magnets.
2. The optimal ratio of coils and magnets is 3: 4 (for every 3 coils - 4 magnets). For 9 coils - 12 magnets (6 for each rotor disk), for 12 coils - 16 magnets, and so on.
3. The optimum distance between two adjacent magnets located on the same disc is equal to the width of these magnets.

Increasing the distance between two adjacent magnets will result in uneven power generation. It is possible to reduce this distance, but it is better, nevertheless, to observe the optimal parameters.

Aleksei2011 FORUMHOUSE user

It is a mistake to make the distance between the magnets equal to half the width of the magnet. One person was right when he said that the distance should not be less than the width of the magnet.

If you do not delve into the boring theory, then the scheme of overlapping the coils of an axial generator with permanent magnets in practice should look like this.

At each moment of time, the same poles of the magnets similarly overlap the windings of the coils of a single phase.

Aleksei2011

This is how it is in real life: everything coincides with the picture by almost 100%, only the coils differ quite a bit in shape.

Let us consider the assembly sequence of an axial generator using the example of a device assembled by a user. Aleksei2011.

Aleksei2011

This time I am making a disk axial generator. The diameter of the discs is 220 mm, the magnets are 50 * 30 * 10 mm. In total - 16 magnets (8 pieces per disc). I wound the coils with a wire Ø1.06 mm, 75 turns each. Coils - 12 pieces.

Stator manufacturing

As you can see in the photo, the coils are shaped like an elongated drop of water. This is done so that the direction of movement of the magnets is perpendicular to the long side sections of the coil (this is where the maximum EMF is induced).

If round magnets are used, the inner diameter of the coil should be approximately the same as the diameter of the magnet. If square magnets are used, the coil turns must be configured so that the magnets overlap the straight lengths of the turns. Installing longer magnets does not make much sense, because the maximum EMF values ​​arise only in those sections of the conductor that are located perpendicular to the direction of movement of the magnetic field.

The manufacture of the stator begins with winding the coils. The easiest way to wind the coils is to use a pre-prepared template. Templates range from small hand tools to miniature homemade looms.

The coils of each individual phase are connected in series: the end of the first coil is connected to the beginning of the fourth, the end of the fourth to the beginning of the seventh, etc.

Recall that when the phases are connected according to the "star" scheme, the ends of the windings (phases) of the device are connected into one common node, which will be the neutral of the generator. In this case, three free wires (the beginning of each phase) are connected to a three-phase diode bridge.

When all the coils are assembled into a single circuit, you can prepare a mold for pouring the stator. After that, we immerse the entire electrical part in the mold and fill it with epoxy resin.

Making a rotor for an axial shaft

Most often, homemade axial generators are made on the basis of a car hub and brake discs compatible with it (you can use homemade metal discs, as did Aleksei2011). The scheme will be as follows.

In this case, the stator diameter is larger than the rotor diameter. This allows the stator to be attached to the wind turbine frame using metal studs.

Aleksei2011

Studs for fastening the stator M6 are (in the amount of 3 pieces). This is solely for the generator test. Subsequently, there will be 6 of them (M8). I think that for a generator of such power, this will be quite enough.

In some cases, the stator disc is attached to the stationary axis of the generator. This approach makes it possible to make the design of the generator less overall, but the principles of operation of the device do not change from this.

Opposite magnets should be directed towards each other with opposite poles: if on the first disk the magnet faces the generator stator with its south pole "S", then the opposite magnet located on the second disk should face the stator with its pole "N". In this case, the magnets located side by side on the same disk must also be oriented in opposite directions.

The strength of the magnetic field that neodymium magnets create is quite high. Therefore, the distance between the stator discs and the generator rotor should be adjusted using a stud-threaded connection.

This is a design option in which the rotor diameter is larger than the stator diameter. In this case, the stator is attached to the stationary axis of the device.

Also, to adjust the distance between the discs, you can use spacers (or washers), which are installed on the stationary axis of the generator.

The distance between the magnets and the stator should be minimal (1 ... 2 mm). You can glue the magnets on the generator discs with ordinary superglue. It is best to stick the magnets using a pre-prepared template (for example, from plywood).

Here is what the user pre-tested generator showed Aleksei2011 using a screwdriver: at 310 rpm, 42 volts were removed from the device (star connection). From one phase, 22 volts are obtained. The design resistance of one phase is 0.95 Ohm. After connecting the battery, the screwdriver was able to spin the generator up to 170 rpm, the charging current was 3.1A.

After lengthy experimentation involving propeller upgrades and other smaller-scale improvements, the generator showed its maximum performance.

Aleksei2011

Finally, the wind came to us, and I recorded the maximum power of the wind turbine: the wind intensified, and gusts at times reached 12-14 m / s. The maximum recorded power is 476 watts. With a wind of 10 m / s, the wind turbine produces about 300 watts.

Wind turbine from car generator

A popular solution among people who practice the manufacture of wind turbines with their own hands is the alteration of an automobile generator for alternative needs. Despite all the attractiveness of such an undertaking, it should be noted that an automobile generator in the form in which it is installed on a vehicle engine is rather problematic to use as part of a wind power plant. Let's figure out why:

1. Firstly, the winding of the coils of a standard automobile generator consists of only 5 ... 7 turns. Therefore, in order for such a generator to begin charging the battery, its rotor must be spun up to about 1200 rpm.
2. Secondly, the magnetic induction in a standard car generator is due to an excitation coil that is built into the rotor of the device. In order for such a generator to work without connecting to an additional power source, it must be equipped with permanent magnets (preferably neodymium) and make certain adjustments to the stator winding.

Michael26

The converted autogenerator (for magnets) has the right to life. I have two of them now. In a wind of 8 m / s with two-meter propellers, they give an honest 300 watts each.

Alteration of an automobile generator for wind turbines requires a certain skill. Therefore, it is advisable to start it with the experience of rewinding induction motors or generators with a standard cylindrical stator (both, if desired, can be turned into an alternative power plant). Alteration of an automobile generator has its own nuances. It will be much easier to understand them if you turn to those who have managed to achieve certain success in this area.

Cable kink protection

As you know, the wind does not have a constant direction. And if your wind generator rotates around its axis like a weather vane, then without additional protection measures, the cable going from the wind generator to other elements of the system will quickly twist and become unusable within a few days. We bring to your attention several ways to protect yourself from such troubles.

Method one: detachable connection

The simplest, but completely impractical, method of protection is to install a detachable cable connection. The connector allows you to manually untangle the coiled cable by disconnecting the wind turbine from the system.

w00w00 FORUMHOUSE user

I know that some people at the bottom put something like a plug with a socket. Twisted the cable - disconnected it from the socket. Then - unscrewed and stuck the plug back. And the mast does not need to be lowered, and current collectors are not needed. I read this on the forum on self-made windmills. According to the author, everything works and does not twist the cable too often.

Method two: using a hard cable

Some users advise connecting thick, resilient and rigid cables (eg welding cables) to the generator. The method, at first glance, is unreliable, but it has the right to life.

user343 FORUMHOUSE user

Found on one site: our method of protection is to use a hard rubber coated welding cable. The problem of twisted wires in the design of small wind turbines is highly overrated, and welding cable # 4 ... # 6 has special qualities: the hard rubber prevents the cable from twisting and prevents the wind turbine from turning in the same direction.

Method three: installing slip rings

In our opinion, only the installation of special slip rings will help to completely protect the cable from twisting. It is this method of protection that the user implemented in the design of his wind generator. Michael 26.

Wind turbine protection from storm

It is about protecting the device from hurricanes and strong gusts of wind. In practice, it is implemented in two ways:

1. By limiting the speed of the wind wheel using an electromagnetic brake.
2. Driving the plane of rotation of the propeller from the direct impact of the wind flow.

The first method is based on a wind turbine. We have already talked about it in one of the previous articles.

The second method involves the installation of a folding tail, which allows the propeller to be directed towards the wind flow at a nominal wind force, and during a storm, on the contrary, to take the propeller out of the wind.

Protection by folding the tail takes place according to the following scheme.

1. In calm weather, the tail is slightly inclined (down and to the side).
2. At rated wind speed, the tail straightens and the propeller becomes parallel to the air flow.
3. When the wind speed exceeds the nominal values ​​(for example, 10 m / s), the wind pressure on the propeller becomes greater than the force generated by the weight of the tail. At this moment, the tail begins to fold, and the propeller leaves from under the wind.
4. When the wind speed reaches critical values, the plane of rotation of the propeller becomes perpendicular to the wind flow.

When the wind weakens, the tail, under its own weight, returns to its original position and turns the propeller towards the wind. In order for the tail to be able to return to its original position without additional springs, a swivel mechanism with an inclined kingpin (hinge) is used, which is installed on the tail pivot axis.

The optimal tail area is 15% ... 20% of the wind wheel area.

The most common version of mechanical protection of a wind generator is presented to your attention. In one form or another, it is successfully used in practice by the users of our portal.

WatchCat FORUMHOUSE user

In a storm, the propeller must be slowed down by pulling it out of the wind. For me, for example, when the wind is too strong, the wind turbine overturns with the propeller up. Not the best option, because the return to the working position is accompanied by a noticeable blow. But in ten years the windmill did not break down.

A few words about the correct installation of the wind turbine

When choosing the place and height of the mast that would be optimal for installing a wind generator, you should focus on a variety of factors: the recommended height, the presence of obstacles near the wind turbine, as well as your own observations and measurements.

In order to calculate the optimal mast height for a home wind turbine, it is necessary to add another 10 meters to the height of the nearest obstacle (tree, building, etc.), which is within a radius of 100 meters from the wind turbine mast. This will give you the height of the bottom point of the propeller.

Leo2 FORUMHOUSE user

In the USA, for example, the minimum recommended mast height for wind turbines with a capacity of several kW is 15 m, but the higher the better. The bottom of the wind turbine must be at least 10 m higher than the nearest tallest obstacle. Of course, it is necessary to first survey the terrain and select the optimal mast height. Only a very experienced specialist can do this by eye. In all other cases, you need to carry out careful measurements throughout the year (at least).

In the process of installing homemade wind turbines, theory very often diverges from practice, therefore, on average, homemade masts have a height of 6 to 12 meters. The main advantage of self-made towers (masts) is that if any parameters do not meet your needs, the design, dimensions and installation height can be changed at any time.

Before carrying out welding work related to repair or modernization of the structure, the generator must be turned off and removed from the mast. Otherwise, the permanent magnets may be damaged (demagnetized) under the influence of welding currents.

The rich experience of FORUMHOUSE users is collected in one of the sections of our construction portal. If you are seriously interested in alternative energy, we recommend reading the article on (batteries). Surely, you will also be interested in a small video about the features of the correct construction of a powerful and functional power supply system for a country house, which is connected according to the classical scheme to a standard transformer substation.

Perhaps not a single summer resident will argue with the fact that today it is necessary to have some kind of alternative source of electricity, because the light can be turned off at any minute. Self-made wind turbines are very popular today as a source of free energy. Various models of such devices are offered on the market, and on the Internet you can see diagrams, drawings and videos that allow you to assemble them yourself.

It is worth noting that a homemade wind generator will be very useful even with its low power. The mere fact that in the midst of pitch darkness the dacha will be illuminated, and it will be possible to watch TV or charge a mobile device without any problems, will hedge against troubles and raise prestige in front of neighbors.

Three little secrets

The first secret is how high the homemade wind generator will be installed. It is clear that it is easier to mount it at a height of several meters from the ground, but then there will not be much sense from it. It should be borne in mind that the higher the wind generator, the stronger the wind, the faster its blades spin, and the more energy you can get from a self-made power plant.

The second secret is the choice of battery. On the Internet, it is advised not to be smart and put a car battery. Yes, it is easier and, at first glance, cheaper. But, you need to know that car batteries should be installed in a well-ventilated area, they require maintenance, and their service life does not exceed 3 years. It will be better to purchase a dedicated battery. Although it costs more, it will pay off.

The third secret, which wind turbine is best suited for making with your own hands - horizontal or vertical? Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages. We will consider vertical type wind generators, the principle of operation of which is shown in Fig. 2.

First, about the disadvantages: a vertical wind turbine has a low efficiency compared to horizontal models, it takes more materials to assemble it, which, accordingly, leads to an increase in the cost of the structure. On the other hand, they can operate in a weaker wind than their horizontal counterparts, which compensates for their low efficiency. They do not need to be lifted to too high a height, they are easier and cheaper to assemble and install, which negates the difference in the cost of materials.

An important factor is the fact that a vertical wind generator is more reliable in case of sudden gusts of wind and hurricanes, since its stability increases with increasing rotation speed. In addition, vertical structures are practically silent, which allows them to be installed anywhere, up to the roof of a residential building. All of the above leads to the fact that these installations are in growing demand and are produced in various modifications, in relation to the required power and the winds prevailing in certain regions, which, by the way, can be found in the video below.

The simplest design

It is not difficult to assemble a low-power vertical wind generator with your own hands from, without exaggeration, waste materials: a large plastic bottle or tin can, a steel axis and an old electric motor. It is enough to cut the jar or bottle in half and fix these halves on the axis of rotation connected to the generator (Fig. 3). Such a vertical windmill is easy to make collapsible and take it with you on a fishing trip or on a hike, where it will not only illuminate the place where you sleep, but also allow you to recharge your phone or other mobile device.

Own power plant for summer cottages

But making more will have to start with buying a bucket and this is not a joke. Yes, for starters, you have to buy a regular galvanized bucket. This is, of course, in the event that such a leaky bucket was not lying around somewhere in the barn. We mark it into four parts and make slots with scissors for metal, as shown in Fig. 4.

The bucket is attached to the bottom of the generator pulley. It should be fastened with four bolts, placing them strictly symmetrically and at the same distance from the axis of rotation, which will avoid unbalance.

So, almost everything is ready, it remains to perform the following steps:

1. Peel back the metal at the slots to get the blades. If a strong wind prevails most often, it is enough to slightly bend the sides. If the wind is weak, you can bend even harder. In any case, the amount of bend can be adjusted later;
2. Connect all the necessary devices (except for the generator) as shown in Fig. 5;
3. Fix the generator with the wires coming from it to the mast;
4. Secure a mast;
5. Connect the wires from the generator to the controller.

Everything. A self-made wind generator is ready to go.

Electrical diagram

Let's take a closer look at the electrical circuit. It is clear that the wind can stop at any minute. Therefore, wind generators are not connected directly to household appliances, but first they are charged from batteries, to ensure the safety of which, a charge controller is used. Further, given that the batteries provide a low voltage direct current, while almost all household appliances consume 220 volt alternating current, a voltage converter or, as it is also called, an inverter is installed, and only then all consumers are connected.

In order for the wind generator to provide the operation of a personal computer, TV, alarm and several energy-saving lamps, it is enough to install a 75 amp / hour battery, a 1.0 kW voltage converter (inverter), plus a generator of the corresponding power. What else do you need when you are relaxing in the country?

Let's sum up

A vertical wind turbine, which can be made according to the instructions above, can operate in fairly light winds and regardless of its direction. Its design is simplified due to the fact that it does not have a weather vane that turns the screw of a horizontal wind turbine in the wind.

The main disadvantage of vertical-axial wind turbines is low efficiency, but this is compensated for by a number of other advantages:

• Speed ​​and ease of assembly;
• Absence of ultrasonic vibration typical for horizontal wind turbines;
• Low maintenance requirements;
• Quiet enough operation, allowing you to install a vertical wind turbine almost anywhere.

Of course, a self-made windmill may not withstand an unnecessarily strong wind, which turns out to be capable of ripping off a bucket. But this is not a problem, you just have to buy a new one or save the old one that has served its life somewhere in the barn.

In the video below you can see how household appliances are powered in the country. True, the wind generator here is not made from a bucket, but also by hand.

A wind generator (wind turbine) is a device that converts the kinetic energy of the wind into mechanical energy with subsequent conversion into electricity. The production of wind turbines in Russia has grown significantly in recent years along with the interest of consumers. Today, imported and Russian wind generators with a capacity of 0.1 to 70 kW are presented on the market. You can buy wind turbines for your home in the following companies, whose products are most popular with consumers:

• LLC Vetro Svet (St. Petersburg), wind turbine capacity 0.25–1.5 kW;
• OOO SKB Iskra (Moscow), power 0.5 kW;
• OOO GRTs-Vertical (Chelyabinsk region, Miass), power 1.5–30 kW;
• LLC "Sapsan-Energia" (Moscow region), capacity 0.5–5 kW;
• CJSC Wind Energy Company (St. Petersburg), power 5 and 30 kW;
• LMV "Vetroenergetika" (Khabarovsk), power 0.1-10 kW.

Distinguish between household and industrial wind turbines:

• Household wind generators - wind turbines of small power, sufficient to provide energy to a private house. For their operation, a constant wind speed of 4 m / s is required, and the latest developments in equipment make it possible to generate electricity in weak winds.
• Industrial wind turbines have a capacity of several MW. Such installations operate in the far north in areas with constant strong winds.

Required conditions for the operation of the helicopter generator:

1. average annual wind speed not less than 4 m / s;
2. free space for installing a wind turbine (preferably on a hill);
3. it is not required to officially coordinate the installation with the local administration - you just need to notify it;
4. the consent of neighbors to the installation - the noise generated by the wind turbine can cause discontent among the people living nearby;
5. in addition to the installation itself, you will need a lot of additional equipment: batteries, inventory installation, control system, mast.

How much does a wind turbine cost

The prices of Russian-made wind turbines are lower than those of German, Danish or Indian ones. The cheapest Chinese windmills, although their quality is much lower. The simplest wind turbines for private homes cost up to $ 500. They can be used for local power generation, but they will not be able to solve the problem of full power supply to the house. More powerful wind generators from 3 kW to fully provide the home with electricity will cost more.

The approximate cost of a set of wind generators for a home:

• for a small private (country) house, power 3 kW / 72V, eq. $ 1700-1800;
• to provide the cottage with electricity, power 5 kW / 120V, eq. $ 4000;
• to provide electricity to several houses or a farm, power 10 kW / 240V, eq. $ 8500.

Russian-made vertical-axis wind turbines are in great demand. Among the advantages of this equipment:

1. small required wind speeds for rotor movement;
2. independence from wind direction;
3. low sound background, no vibration;
4. safe design for birds;
5. no forced start is required;
6. works in all weather conditions, in any wind strength.

The prices of wind generators for a home are considerable, but the cost of electricity is constantly growing, and wind generators quickly pay off. Among the shortcomings, we note a large material consumption, a low coefficient of conversion of wind energy into electricity, large dimensions of large-capacity installations.

How to make a wind generator with your own hands

Buying a factory wind turbine is not always the best solution. The main obstacle is the high cost of industrial wind turbines. Such equipment can not be installed on every site - a special permit is required to install a mast, and it is dangerous to leave equipment in an uninhabited place. An alternative option is to make a wind generator for a private house with your own hands. In many cases, this is acceptable given the minimum cost and the ability to be creative.

A rotary wind generator is a relatively simple converter device. It will not be enough to fully provide the mansion with electricity, but a homemade wind turbine will be enough for a small country house. He will be able to illuminate the house, outbuildings, paths on the site, etc.

The easiest option is to use a car generator as a wind turbine generator. Autogenerators are inexpensive, perfectly repaired, there is a large selection on the market. At a cost, they are approximately $ 20 per 1 kW. They give out a stable voltage from certain revolutions and dock with 12 volt batteries.

Disadvantages:

• require high revolutions - from 1.5-2.0 thousand and more per minute;
• inferior in reliability to factory generators for wind turbines;
• have a relatively small resource (up to 4000 hours of operation), which is offset by their low cost.

To assemble a wind generator with your own hands from a 1.5 kW automobile generator, you will need:

1. 12 V car generator;
2. a rechargeable battery corresponding to its voltage;
3. converter from 12 to 220v, power 1.3 kW;
4. a small barrel (bucket) made of aluminum or steel;
5. charger relay and car warning lamp;
6. moisture-proof switch, 12v;
7. voltage monitoring device (old voltmeter);
8. copper wire from 2 mm cross section;
9. fasteners (bolts, washers, nuts, clamps).

From a hand tool you will need: scissors for metal, a grinder, a measuring tape, a pencil, screwdrivers, wrenches in a set, pliers, an electric drill with drills.

Several fundamental points in the manufacture of a wind turbine:

1. Maximum efficiency can be achieved by redesigning a car generator for permanent magnets. For this, the excitation winding must be replaced with several ferrite magnets.
2. By machining a non-magnetic rotor from titanium or other non-magnetic material, the rotor can be prevented from magnetizing.
3. To increase the generation of current at low speeds, you need to rewind the stator, increasing the number of turns by 5 times and reducing the wire diameter.
4. Installing neodymium magnets on the rotor will increase the generator's power at low speeds. An even number of magnets are attached to a steel band that must be attached to the base of the interior of the generator. When installing magnets to increase the power, you need to alternate the polarity.
5. For the manufacture of blades, a duralumin pipe is suitable, the fasteners are made of steel. The blades must be balanced, as well as to lighten the structure as much as possible by removing the excess with a grinder and emery.

There are enough materials on the network with a detailed description of the work, so there is no need to repeat

The simplest model of a factory wind generator for lighting a summer cottage will cost at least 60-70 thousand rubles. An alternative wind turbine can be made using the engine of an old washing machine as the main structural element. And in this case, you cannot do without expenses, but you can keep within only a few thousand rubles.

For a wind generator from a washing machine with your own hands, you will have to buy a rotor. You can make it yourself if you buy neodymium magnets, but their price is about the same as that of ready-made Chinese 2.5 kW rotors. In addition, the production of the rotor is technically difficult. In addition to the rotor, you will need:

1. the shaft is long;
2. reducer;
3. gears;
4. impeller;
5. a mast with a length of 10-12 meters (can be made from pipes 32 mm).

An industrial pump motor is suitable for the gearbox housing. The impeller is installed horizontally.

An impeller with a blade length of 1.5 m or more is best made of a durable duralumin corner or fiberglass. It is often proposed to make blades of plywood, but according to experience, with a wind of 10-15 m / s at a height of plywood blades break. The shaft must be firmly secured and free to rotate. The rotating shaft is connected to the generator by a flange.

For more information on how to make a wind generator from a washing machine, see the video below.

How to install a wind turbine

1. Install the wind turbine in an open area, preferably on a hill. Support height not less than 10 m;
2. fasten the mast to the support (post);
3. mount the gearbox with the impeller on the mast;
4. connect the shaft to the gear at the base of the gearbox;
5. connect the shaft to the generator through the flange;
6. Above the wind turbine, you can install a small rain canopy - this will extend the service life of the wind generator.

The power of a home-made wind generator will be enough to charge batteries for various equipment, provide lighting and, in general, the operation of household electrical appliances. By installing a wind turbine, you save yourself the cost of electricity. If desired, the unit in question can be assembled by hand. You just need to decide on the main parameters of the wind generator and do everything in accordance with the instructions.

The design of the wind generator includes several blades that rotate under the influence of wind currents. As a result of this effect, rotational energy is generated. The generated energy is fed by the rotor to the multiplier, which in turn transfers the energy to the electric generator.

There are also designs of wind generators without multipliers. The absence of a multiplier can significantly increase the productivity of the installation.

Wind turbines can be installed both individually and in groups united in a wind farm. Also, wind turbines can be combined with diesel generators, which will save fuel and ensure the most efficient operation of the electrical supply system at home.

What do you need to know before assembling a wind turbine?

Before you start assembling a wind generator, you need to decide on a number of main points.

First step. Choose a suitable type of wind turbine design. Installation can be vertical or horizontal. In the case of self-assembly, it is better to give the choice in favor of vertical models, because they are easier to manufacture and balance.

Second step. Determine the appropriate power. In this moment, everything is individual - focus on your own needs. To obtain more power, it is necessary to increase the diameter and mass of the impeller.

An increase in these characteristics will lead to the emergence of certain difficulties at the stage of fixing and balancing the wind turbine wheel. Consider this moment and objectively assess your capabilities. If you are a beginner, consider installing multiple medium-sized wind turbines instead of one very efficient unit.

Third step. Think about whether you can make all the elements of the wind generator yourself. Each detail must be accurately calculated and made in full accordance with the factory counterparts. In the absence of the necessary skills, it is better to buy ready-made elements.

Fourth step. Choose suitable batteries. It is better to refuse car batteries, because they are short-lived, explosive and demanding in care and maintenance.

Sealed batteries are preferred. They cost a couple of times more, but they serve several times longer and, in general, have higher performance.

Pay special attention to the selection of a suitable number of blades. The most popular are wind turbines with 2 and 3 blades. However, such installations have a number of disadvantages.

When a generator with 2 or 3 blades is operating, powerful centrifugal and gyroscopic forces take place. Under the influence of these forces, the load on the main elements of the wind generator increases significantly. At the same time, in some moments the forces act in opposition to each other.

In order to level the incoming loads and keep the structure of the wind turbine intact, you need to perform competent aerodynamic calculation of the blades and make them in exact accordance with the calculated data. Even minimal errors reduce the efficiency of the installation several times and increase the likelihood of an early breakdown of the wind generator.

High-speed wind turbines generate a lot of noise, especially when it comes to home-made installations. The larger the blades are, the louder the noise will be. This moment imposes a number of restrictions. For example, it will not be possible to install such a noisy structure on the roof of a house, unless, of course, the owner does not like the feeling of life in an airfield.

Keep in mind that as the number of blades increases, the level of vibration generated during the operation of the wind generator will increase. Two-blade sets are more difficult to balance, especially for the inexperienced user. Consequently, there will be a lot of noise and vibration from wind turbines with two blades.

Give a choice in favor of a wind generator with 5-6 blades. Practice shows that such models are the most optimal for self-production and use at home.

The screw is recommended to be made with a diameter of about 2 m. Almost anyone can handle the work of assembling and balancing it. With more experience, you can try to assemble and install a wheel with 12 blades. The assembly of such a unit will require more effort. Material consumption and time costs will also increase. However, 12 blades will allow, even with a weak wind of 6-8 m / s, to receive power at the level of 450-500 W.

Keep in mind that with 12 blades, the wheel will be quite slow-moving, and this can lead to various problems. For example, you have to assemble a special gearbox, which is more complicated and expensive to manufacture.

Thus, the best option for a novice home craftsman is a wind generator with a wheel with a diameter of 200 cm, equipped with medium-length blades in the amount of 6 pieces.

Accessories and tools for assembly

Assembling a wind turbine will require many different components and accessories. Collect and buy everything you need in advance so you don't have to be distracted by it in the future.

Depending on the conditions of a particular situation, the list of required tools may vary slightly. In this moment, you will independently orient yourself in the course of the work.

A step-by-step guide to assembling a wind turbine

The assembly and installation of a homemade wind generator is carried out in several stages.

First step. Prepare a three-point concrete base. Determine the depth and overall strength of the foundation in accordance with the type of soil and climatic conditions at the construction site. Allow the concrete to harden for 1 to 2 weeks and set up the mast. To do this, bury the support mast about 50-60 cm in the ground and fix it with guy ropes.

Second phase. Prepare the rotor and pulley. The pulley is a friction wheel. A groove or rim is located around the circumference of such a wheel. When choosing a rotor diameter, you need to be guided by the average annual wind speed. So, at an average speed of 6-8 m / s, a rotor with a diameter of 5 m will be more efficient than a rotor of 4 m.

Stage three. Make the blades of the future wind turbine. To do this, take a barrel and divide it into several equal parts in accordance with the selected number of blades. Mark the blades with a marker and then cut out the elements. A grinder is perfect for cutting, you can also use metal scissors.

Stage four. Attach the bottom of the drum to the generator pulley. Use bolts for fastening. After that, you need to bend the blades on the barrel. Do not overdo it, otherwise the finished installation will be unstable. Set the suitable rotation speed of the wind turbine by changing the curvature of the blades.

Fifth stage. Connect the wires to the generator and collect them in a chain in a dose. Secure the generator to the mast. Connect the wires to the generator and the mast. Assemble the generator into a chain. Also connect the battery to the circuit. Please note that the maximum permissible wire length for this installation is 100 cm. Connect the load with wires.

It takes an average of 3-6 hours to assemble one generator, depending on the skills available and, in general, the efficiency and the foreman.

The wind turbine requires regular care and maintenance.

1. 2-3 weeks after installing a new generator, you need to dismantle the device and make sure that the existing fasteners are secure... For your own safety, check the mountings only in light winds.
2. Lubricate the bearings at least once every 6 months. When the first signs of imbalance appear on the wheel, immediately remove it and eliminate the existing malfunctions. The most common sign of imbalance is abnormal blade shaking.
3. Check pantograph brushes at least every 6 months... Every 2-6 years paint metal elements installation. Regular painting will protect the metal from corrosion damage.
4. Monitor the status of the generator... Check regularly that the generator does not overheat during operation. If the surface of the unit becomes so hot that it becomes very difficult to hold your hand on it, take the generator to a workshop.
5. Monitor the condition of the collector... Any contamination must be removed from the contacts as soon as possible. they significantly reduce the efficiency of the installation. Pay attention to the mechanical condition of the contacts. Overheating of the unit, burned out windings and other similar defects - all this must be immediately eliminated.

Thus, there is nothing complicated in assembling a wind turbine. It is enough just to prepare all the necessary elements, assemble the installation according to the instructions and connect the finished unit to the mains. A properly assembled wind generator for your home will become a reliable source of free electricity. Follow the tutorial and you will be fine.

Happy work!

Video - DIY wind turbines for home

We have developed a design of a wind turbine with a vertical axis of rotation. Below, there is a detailed guide for its manufacture, after carefully reading which, you can make a vertical wind generator yourself.

The wind generator turned out to be quite reliable, with low maintenance costs, inexpensive and easy to manufacture. It is not necessary to follow the list of details presented below, you can make some adjustments of your own, improve something, use something of your own, because not everywhere you can find exactly what is on the list. We tried to use inexpensive and high quality parts.

Used materials and equipment:

Name	Qty.	Note
List of used parts and materials for the rotor:
Pre-cut sheet metal	1	Cut from 1/4 "thick steel using waterjet, laser, etc.
Hub from auto (Hub)	1	Should contain 4 holes, about 4 inches in diameter
2 "x 1" x 1/2 "neodymium magnet	26	Very fragile, it is better to order additionally
1/2 "-13tpi x 3" hairpin	1	TPI - Threads Per Inch
1/2 "nut	16
1/2 "washer	16
1/2 "grower	16
1/2 ".- 13tpi cap nut	16
1 "washer	4	To maintain the gap between the rotors
List of used parts and materials for the turbine:
3 "x 60" Galvanized pipe	6
ABS plastic 3/8 "(1.2x1.2m)	1
Balancing magnets	If needed	If the blades are not balanced, then magnets are attached for balancing.
1/4 "screw	48
1/4 "washer	48
1/4 "grower	48
1/4 "nut	48
2 "x 5/8" corners	24
1 "corners	12 (optional)	If the blades do not keep their shape, then you can add additional. corners
screws, nuts, washers and grovers for 1 "corner	12 (optional)
List of used parts and materials for the stator:
Epoxy with hardener	2 l
1/4 "stainless steel screw	3
1/4 "washer st.	3
1/4 "stainless steel nut	3
1/4 "ring lug	3	For email connections
1/2 "-13tpi x 3" hairpin st.	1	St. steel is not ferromagnetic, so the rotor will not "brake"
1/2 "nut	6
Fiberglass	If you need
0.51mm enamel. the wire		24AWG
List of used parts and materials for installation:
1/4 "x 3/4" bolt	6
1-1 / 4 "pipe flange	1
1-1 / 4 "galvanized tube L-18"	1
Tools and equipment:
1/2 "-13tpi x 36" hairpin	2	Used for jacking
1/2 "bolt	8
Anemometer	If you need
1 "aluminum sheet	1	For the manufacture of spacers, if needed
Green paint	1	For painting plastic holders. Color is not important
Blue paint ball.	1	For painting the rotor and other parts. Color is not important
Multimeter	1
Soldering iron and solder	1
Drill	1
Hacksaw	1
Kern	1
Mask	1
Protective glasses	1
Gloves	1

Wind turbines with a vertical axis of rotation are not as efficient as their horizontal counterparts, but vertical wind turbines are less demanding on the place of their installation.

Turbine manufacturing

1. Connecting element - designed to connect the rotor to the blades of the wind generator.
2. The layout of the blades - two opposite equilateral triangles. According to this drawing, it will then be easier to arrange the corners of the attachment of the blades.

If you are not sure about something, cardboard templates will help you avoid mistakes and further alterations.

The sequence of steps for manufacturing a turbine:

1. Manufacturing of the lower and upper supports (bases) of the blades. Mark and use a jigsaw to cut a circle out of the ABS plastic. Then circle it and cut out the second support. You should get two absolutely identical circles.
2. Cut a hole with a diameter of 30 cm in the center of one support. This will be the upper support of the blades.
3. Take the hub (car hub) and mark and drill four holes on the bottom support to mount the hub.
4. Make a template for the location of the blades (Fig. Above) and mark on the lower support the attachment points for the corners that will connect the support and the blades.
5. Stack the blades, tie them tightly and cut to the required length. In this design, the blades are 116 cm long. The longer the blades, the more wind energy they receive, but the downside is instability in strong winds.
6. Mark the blades for attaching the corners. Tap and then drill holes in them.
7. Using the blade pattern shown in the picture above, attach the blades to the support using angles.

Rotor manufacturing

The sequence of actions for manufacturing a rotor:

1. Place the two rotor bases on top of each other, line up the holes and use a file or marker to make a small mark on the sides. In the future, this will help to correctly orient them relative to each other.
2. Make two paper magnet patterns and glue them to the bases.
3. Mark the polarity of all magnets with a marker. As a "polarity tester", you can use a small magnet wrapped in a cloth or tape. Passing it over a large magnet, it will be clearly visible whether it is repelled or attracted.
4. Prepare epoxy by adding hardener. And apply it evenly from the bottom of the magnet.
5. Very carefully bring the magnet to the edge of the rotor base and move it to its position. If the magnet is installed on top of the rotor, then the high power of the magnet can sharply magnetize it and it can break. And never stick your fingers and other body parts between two magnets or a magnet and an iron. Neodymium magnets are very powerful!
6. Continue to glue the magnets to the rotor (remember to grease them with epoxy), alternating the poles. If the magnets are pulled off by magnetic force, use a piece of wood between them for safety.
7. After one rotor is finished, move on to the second. Using the previously marked mark, position the magnets exactly opposite the first rotor, but in a different polarity.
8. Place the rotors away from each other (so that they do not become magnetized, otherwise you will not remove them later).

Manufacturing a stator is a very laborious process. You can, of course, buy a ready-made stator (try again to find them with us) or a generator, but not the fact that they are suitable for a particular wind turbine with its own individual characteristics

The stator of a wind generator is an electrical component consisting of 9 coils. The stator coil is shown in the photo above. The coils are divided into 3 groups, with 3 coils in each group. Each coil is wound with 24AWG (0.51mm) wire and contains 320 turns. More turns, but a thinner wire will give a higher voltage but less current. Therefore, the parameters of the coils can be changed, depending on what voltage you require at the output of the wind generator. The following table will help you decide:
320 turns, 0.51mm (24AWG) = 100V @ 120rpm.
160 turns, 0.0508mm (16AWG) = 48V @ 140rpm.
60 turns, 0.0571mm (15AWG) = 24V @ 120rpm.

Manually winding reels is boring and difficult. Therefore, in order to facilitate the winding process, I would advise you to make a simple device - a winding machine. Moreover, its design is quite simple and it can be made from scrap materials.

The turns of all coils should be wound in the same way, in the same direction and pay attention or mark where the beginning and where the end of the coil is. To prevent unwinding of the coils, they are wrapped with electrical tape and coated with epoxy.

The fixture is made of two pieces of plywood, a bent hairpin, a piece of PVC pipe and nails. Before bending the stud, heat it up with a burner.

A small piece of pipe between the planks provides the desired thickness, and four nails provide the required coil dimensions.

You can come up with your own design of the winding machine, or maybe you already have a ready-made one.
After all the coils are wound, they must be checked for identity to each other. This can be done using a scale, and you also need to measure the resistance of the coils with a multimeter.

Do not connect household consumers directly from the wind generator! Also observe safety precautions when handling electricity!

Coil connection process:

1. Sand the ends of each coil lead.
2. Connect the coils as shown in the picture above. You should get 3 groups, 3 coils in each group. With such a connection diagram, a three-phase alternating current will be obtained. Solder the ends of the coils, or use clamps.
3. Choose one of the following configurations:
   A. Configuration " star". In order to get a high output voltage, connect the X, Y and Z pins to each other.
   B. Configuration "triangle". For high current, connect X to B, Y to C, Z to A.
   C. To enable future reconfiguration, extend all six conductors and run them out.
4. On a large sheet of paper, draw a diagram of the location and connection of the coils. All coils must be evenly spaced and match the position of the rotor magnets.
5. Attach the spools with tape to the paper. Prepare epoxy with hardener for stator potting.
6. Use a paintbrush to apply epoxy to fiberglass. Add small pieces of fiberglass if necessary. Do not fill the center of the coils to ensure sufficient cooling during operation. Try to avoid bubble formation. The purpose of this operation is to secure the coils in place and flatten the stator, which will be located between the two rotors. The stator will not be a loaded unit and will not rotate.

To make it clearer, let's look at the whole process in pictures:

Finished spools are placed on waxed paper with a pre-drawn layout. The three small circles in the corners in the photo above are the locations of the holes for attaching the stator bracket. The center ring prevents epoxy from entering the center circle.

The coils are secured in place. Fiberglass, in small pieces, is placed around the coils. The coil leads can be routed to the inside or outside of the stator. Do not forget to leave enough headroom. Be sure to double-check all connections and ring with a multimeter.

The stator is almost complete. The holes for fixing the bracket are drilled in the stator. When drilling holes, be careful not to get into the coil leads. After completing the operation, trim off the excess fiberglass and, if necessary, sand the stator surface with sandpaper.

Stator bracket

The tube for attaching the hub axle was cut to the required size. Holes were drilled in it and threads were cut. In the future, bolts will be screwed into them that will hold the axle.

The picture above shows the bracket to which the stator will be attached between the two rotors.

The photo above shows a stud with nuts and bushing. Four of these pins provide the required clearance between the rotors. Instead of a bushing, you can use larger nuts, or you can cut the washers from aluminum yourself.

Generator. Final assembly

A small clarification: a small air gap between the rotor-stator-rotor bundle (which is set by the pin with the bushing) provides a higher power output, but the risk of damage to the stator or rotor increases when the axle is skewed, which can occur in strong winds.

The left image below shows a rotor with 4 studs to provide clearance and two aluminum fins (which will be removed later).
The right figure shows the stator assembled and painted green in place.

Build process:
1. Drill 4 holes in the upper rotor plate and thread them for the stud. This is necessary to smoothly lower the rotor into place. Press 4 studs into the aluminum plates glued earlier and install the upper rotor on the studs.
The rotors will be attracted to each other with very great force, which is why such a device is needed. Align the rotors immediately relative to each other using the previously marked marks on the ends.
2-4. Turning the studs alternately with a wrench, lower the rotor evenly.
5. After the rotor is in contact with the bushing (providing clearance), unscrew the studs and remove the aluminum fins.
6. Install the hub (hub) and screw it on.

The generator is ready!

After installing the studs (1) and flange (2), your generator should look something like this (see the picture above)

Stainless steel bolts are used to provide electrical contact. It is convenient to use ring lugs on the wires.

Cap nuts and washers are used to secure the connection. boards and blade supports to the generator. So, the wind turbine is fully assembled and ready for testing.

To begin with, it is best to spin the windmill with your hand and measure the parameters. If all three output terminals are short-circuited together, then the wind turbine should rotate very tightly. This can be used to stop the wind turbine for service or safety.

A wind generator can be used not only to provide electricity to the house. For example, this instance is made so that the stator generates a high voltage, which is then used for heating.
The generator considered above produces a 3-phase voltage with different frequency (depending on the wind strength), and for example, in Russia, a single-phase 220-230V network is used, with a fixed network frequency of 50 Hz. This does not mean that this generator is not suitable for powering household appliances. The alternating current from this generator can be converted to direct current, with a fixed voltage. And direct current can already be used to power lamps, heat water, charge batteries, or a converter can be supplied to convert direct current into alternating current. But this is beyond the scope of this article.

The figure above shows a simple 6-diode bridge rectifier circuit. It converts alternating current to direct current.

Place of installation of the wind generator

The wind turbine described here is mounted on a 4 meter support at the edge of a mountain. The pipe flange, which is installed on the bottom of the generator, provides an easy and quick installation of the wind generator - just screw 4 bolts. Although, for reliability, it is better to weld.

Usually, horizontal wind turbines "like" when the wind blows from one direction, in contrast to vertical wind turbines, where due to the weather vane, they can turn and they do not care about the direction of the wind. Because Since this wind turbine is installed on the bank of a cliff, then the wind there creates turbulent flows from different directions, which is not very effective for this structure.

Another factor to consider when choosing a placement is the strength of the wind. An archive of wind strength data for your area can be found on the Internet, although it will be very approximate, since it all depends on the specific location.
Also, an anemometer (a device for measuring the strength of the wind) will help in choosing the location of the wind generator.

A little about the mechanics of a wind generator

As you know, wind occurs due to the temperature difference between the earth's surface. When the wind rotates the turbines of a wind turbine, it creates three forces: lifting, braking and impulse. The lift force usually occurs over a convex surface and is a consequence of the pressure difference. Wind braking force occurs behind the blades of the wind turbine, it is unwanted and slows down the wind turbine. The impulse force arises from the curved shape of the blades. When air molecules push the blades from behind, then they have nowhere to go and they collect behind them. As a result, they push the blades in the direction of the wind. The greater the lifting and impulse forces and the lower the braking force, the faster the blades will rotate. Accordingly, the rotor rotates, which creates a magnetic field on the stator. As a result, electrical energy is generated.

Download the layout of the magnets.