How to make gazebos from old window frames (with photos). How to restore old wooden windows yourself, so as not to buy new ones. Where can you use old frames?

With the arrival of spring, every owner of a summer cottage is faced with the choice of buying or building a greenhouse for seedlings. Stores offer the most various options, ranging from simple arched structures made of arcs coated with agrofibre to complex structures made of polycarbonate. But the goal of any summer resident is to grow crops at the lowest cost, which is why greenhouses built from old window frames can increasingly be found on plots. Fortunately, wooden ones have been replaced modern windows made from PVC profiles and frames that have expired are dismantled.

Advantages and disadvantages of window frames as a material for greenhouse construction

Prefabricated greenhouses and greenhouses offered by stores are easily installed according to the diagrams supplied with them. But if available sufficient quantity With old window frames and minimal construction skills, almost anyone who knows how to hold a hammer and use a screwdriver can build a greenhouse. Like any material, frames have their advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages of window frames

This material has the following advantages:

  1. Availability of material and its low cost. Old frames can be obtained when dismantling and replacing windows for free or for a small price if you purchase them from an organization engaged in this work.
  2. The possibility of constructing a greenhouse in a relatively short time. The frames are easily mounted on a pre-prepared foundation.
  3. Long service life. With proper preparation of the frames and constant care of them, the greenhouse can last about 10 years.
  4. Not required special tools and devices. To install a greenhouse, all you need is a hammer, a screwdriver and a building level.
  5. Installation on various types of foundation. Depending on the weight of the frames, a strip or column foundation can be poured to build a greenhouse, but you can get by with a simple strapping.
  6. The glass maintains the optimal temperature for plants and transmits the maximum amount of light. In case of damage, the glass can be replaced with plastic film.
  7. Possibility of combination with other materials. A frame greenhouse can have a roof made of polycarbonate, film or other suitable covering.

Plastic, metal-plastic and aluminum frames will last longer, but the cost of the greenhouse will be significantly higher.

Disadvantages of the material

The disadvantages include:

  1. Difficulty in preparing frames for installation. It will require thorough cleaning of old paint, treatment with an antiseptic and fine painting.
  2. Requires constant care. During operation, gaps may appear between the frames that will need to be sealed.
  3. The fragility of glass. If the foundation subsides or is hit, the glass may crack and will need to be replaced.
  4. Limitations on service life. Depending on the material from which the frames are made and their proper processing, a greenhouse can last for several years.

The frames can be painted in one color to make the finished structure look more aesthetically pleasing.

Preparatory work: dimensions, diagram, drawing

How much time will be spent on installing the greenhouse largely depends on how correctly the preliminary calculations are made and the installation diagram is drawn up. In this case, there will be no need to urgently purchase missing material or make adjustments directly on the site.

Choosing a location for installation

One of the most important factors when building a greenhouse is the choice of location. The future harvest depends on this. It should be level and well lit throughout the day, located away from buildings and trees, and not be in a low area so that water does not stagnate. The greenhouse should be located in the direction from north to south. Based on the site plan and the location of trees and buildings, you can select the installation location and determine the permissible dimensions of the future greenhouse. After this, it is worth starting a more detailed study.

Preliminary calculations, drawing

Determine the exact number of frames available, write down their size. It's best if they are the same. This will avoid additional height adjustments. After this, you can draw up a diagram according to which the installation will be carried out. This will help determine the installation sequence and mark the location for doors and windows.

Depending on the exact size of the frames, necessary adjustments should be made. If you need to increase the height of the walls, the windows can be positioned horizontally, attaching them above the main frames.

Depending on the weight of the frames, you should decide on the type of foundation on which the greenhouse will be installed. If you plan to garden for quite a long time, it is better to install the greenhouse on strip or columnar foundations. If it is planned for 1–2 years, a base made of timber, previously insulated with roofing felt or treated with an antiseptic, will be sufficient.

The roof in a greenhouse can be either single-pitched, gable or arched. This largely depends on the material from which they decided to make it. This can be an arched polycarbonate roof or a structure made of frames covered with plastic film.

Roofs made from glazed window frames are less common. If the slope is insufficient, there is a possibility that in a snowy winter the glass may break under the weight of the snow.

You should first draw up a detailed drawing of the roof and consider mounting options.

When constructing greenhouses, wooden frames are most often used. They are affordable and, with proper preparation, can last a long time. Before installation, you need to carefully inspect all frames, putting aside those that have defects. If they become numb during use, they will show signs of rotting - flaking paint, darkened wood color, change in structure. Frames with high degree damage should not be used during installation.

Frames with minor defects may last for some time. When drawing up a drawing, you need to take this point into account and, if replacement is not possible, provide for installation in such a way that the areas with defects are located in the upper part, near the roof itself. This way they will be less exposed to moisture and will increase their service life.

When preparing for installation you must:

  1. Remove all unnecessary hinges and handles from the frames.
  2. Using sandpaper or a sander, remove layers of old paint down to the base.
  3. To protect against rotting and damage by pests, treat the frames with an antiseptic.
  4. Remove the glass so that it is not damaged during installation if assembly is carried out using nails and a hammer.
  5. Fix the windows that will be used in a convenient way so that they do not open during the greenhouse assembly process.
  6. Vents that are not planned to be opened should be sealed with nails or sealant.

Calculation of the required amount of material

We make all preliminary calculations based on the previously drawn up drawing. You need to calculate the number of frames depending on the size. At standard size frame 1200x900 mm, the length of the greenhouse will be a multiple of 90 cm, and the height will be 120 cm + foundation height + roof height. Taking into account the fact that optimal width The beds are 1 m, and the distance between them varies from 40 to 60 cm, the most convenient width of the greenhouse will be 2.7 m, i.e. 3 frames. If the windows are larger, two frames may be sufficient.

Hinged windows have big sizes and a significantly smaller number of them will be required.

If there are few frames, you can make a greenhouse with pitched roof, attaching it to a house or other building on the south side.

In addition to the required number of frames, you will need:

  1. Entrance door. You can use a standard balcony door, shortening it if necessary, or you can make it yourself according to the size of the opening.
  2. Bars for building a frame. For a small greenhouse you will need 4 bars of length equal to the height of the building. If a long structure is planned, support beams can be used to strengthen it.
  3. Foundation materials. For strip formwork you will need material for formwork - posts and boards, a mixture of concrete, crushed stone and cement, reinforcement or large stones. For ordinary wooden foundation You will need a beam 15X15 cm long, equal to the perimeter of the greenhouse, and roofing felt for waterproofing.
  4. Anchor bolts, screws.
  5. Wooden bars for rafters. Depending on the type of roof, their number will vary significantly. Largest quantity will be required for gable roof.
  6. Roofing material. This can be polycarbonate with a thickness of at least 6 mm or polyethylene film.

Tools required for work

During the installation of a greenhouse you will need:

  • cord and pegs;
  • hammer;
  • screwdriver;
  • a circular saw;
  • building level;
  • drills of various diameters;
  • square;
  • roulette;
  • shovel;
  • polyurethane foam.

Detailed instructions for making a greenhouse

When constructing almost any greenhouse, the main steps are:

  1. Marking the installation site. Using pegs and a cord, we mark the place where the greenhouse will be installed. If a strip foundation is planned, we determine the width of the formwork and, by marking it, dig a trench about 40 cm deep.

    For a strip greenhouse you need to dig a trench

  2. Construction of the foundation. For strip foundation We install formwork from boards. We strengthen their rows with pegs and place reinforcement or large stones inside. Then we fill the channels with pre-prepared cement mortar. Drying time is about 5 days. Only after this can you begin further work.

    Pouring is done into pre-prepared formwork

  3. To set the corners columnar foundation You can use a metal pipe, brick, gas silicate blocks. The timber crown is mounted at the installation site. The bars are fastened with metal corners, and a rod is driven into the ground at the corners for reliable fixation. To prevent rotting, paving slabs or other material can be placed in the corners and in the center of each side of the base.
  4. Making beds. Before installing the frame, it will be convenient to make beds and design paths between them. Depending on the location of the entrance to the greenhouse and their number, there may be different options for the location of the beds.

    When arranging a greenhouse, it is important to position the beds correctly

    5. There are many types of path design. These can be paving stones, paving slabs, brick or stone, which are laid in a pre-prepared trench 10–15 cm deep with a sand cushion 5–7 cm high. Alternative option- backfill path made of sand and gravel.

    To design the paths, small trenches are pre-dug

    6. Sand or gravel is poured into a trench 5–10 cm high. It is permissible to use wood mulch or straw at your discretion.

    Paths can be mulched with sawdust, straw or other material

    7. Installation of the frame and fastening frames to it. We cover the foundation with strips of roofing felt and, using anchors, install beams for the lower frame on top of the roofing felt. For structural strength, we connect these elements together with steel corners. After this, we make markings for installing vertical supports. Using steel corners, checking the accuracy of the vertical lines using a level, we fasten the corner posts, and then, if necessary, install intermediate ones.

    The greenhouse frame is prepared for installation of frames

    8. Using bars, we make temporary fixation so that the racks do not bend from their own weight. After installing all vertical elements We attach it to the racks using corners top harness- it will not allow the elements to tilt under their own weight. Only after the final installation of the frame do we remove the temporary supports. Can be used as stands metal pipes, buried in the soil. To attach the frames to the frame, it is best to use self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws. This will eliminate the possibility of damage to the glass. It is optimal to attach the frames directly to the timber in the holes that are already in the frames.

    Frame mounting points can be sealed with foam

    9. After completing the installation, the gaps that have formed between the racks and frames must be sealed with polyurethane foam. This will prevent drafts and cold air from entering the greenhouse.

    The gaps between the frames and the frame are sealed with polyurethane foam

    10. Construction of the roof. The gable roof frame consists of two vertical racks gables, ridge and rafter legs on both sides of him. First of all, the racks are installed, then the beam is thrown from one rack to another - it will act as a ridge. The rafters are attached to it.

    For a long greenhouse you need to install additional racks

    11. If the greenhouse made of frames is long, then we install additional ones between the main rafters. The frame is mounted using steel angles and self-tapping screws. Attached to the finished frame roofing material. If it is polycarbonate, then we install it using a special profile and self-tapping screws with thermal washers; if it is a polyethylene film, we install it using wooden slats.

    The film is attached to the rafters using wooden slats

    12. Lastly, install the door and sew up the gables.

Different types of greenhouse foundations

To build a greenhouse, depending on the weight of the frames, you can choose several foundation options. Some of them are easy to install and do not require much time, while others may take several days to erect.

Photo gallery: foundation options

The timber for the foundation must be treated with an antiseptic or wrapped in roofing felt. For a columnar foundation, bricks are used, concrete blocks or stones Thanks to special treatment, sleepers will last a long time To protect the foundation, a wooden frame is installed on a base of stones

Typical greenhouses made of window frames

Greenhouses made from window frames most often have a rectangular shape, which greatly simplifies the work.

Photo gallery: options for designing greenhouses from old window frames

It is convenient to care for plants in a tall greenhouse Frames used for installation various sizes With a solid foundation, built taking into account the topography of the site, the greenhouse will last for a long time The greenhouse looks aesthetically pleasing because the frames are painted the same color The paths in the greenhouse are paved with stones The roof of the greenhouse is covered with reinforced film

Video: greenhouse made from window frames

With properly planned work, you can build a greenhouse from window frames quite quickly. It is not necessary to have special skills - you need to carefully study the various options and choose the appropriate one, and then carefully think through and carry out each stage of construction. The result will please you good harvest you and your loved ones.

When moving into an apartment or starting a renovation, do not rush to replace wooden windows with plastic analogues “from the best European manufacturers.” Even if the window frames look dilapidated, they may be quite suitable for further use. Most of the old windows were made back in Soviet times, when the requirements for the quality of material and manufacturing were quite high. Of course, repairs, insulation and external finishing, but if you wish, have free time and minimal cash investments, there is every chance of getting a decent result.

Which windows make sense to restore?

It would seem that a completely damaged window frame is still quite subject to restoration

To assess the feasibility of restoration, you need to take into account the material from which the frames are made. Larch and pine have a “life” limit of 25–35 years, beech and oak - more than 50 years.

Restoration will not meet your expectations if:

  • there is complete loosening of the window frames in the openings;
  • the wood of the windows has dried out;
  • the structure of the wood looks loose, when pressed, dents remain;
  • dark spots appear under the paint (underneath them, as a rule, is rot and rot);
  • windows are seriously damaged (frames are split, etc.);
  • at visual inspection it is clear that the frames are bent or severely deformed during use.

Before restoration, also pay attention to the fact that the wood must be dry.

Photo gallery: materials needed to repair old wooden frames

Using a primer will significantly extend the life of wooden windows
The most popular when painting window frames is considered alkyd paint The film will not only retain heat, but also protect the room from unwanted light.
In most cases, the tubular seal is equipped with an adhesive strip, which greatly facilitates its installation on the window frame Silicone sealant for windows will get rid of even the smallest cracks You can buy paper strips, although it is not at all difficult to make them yourself

Antiseptic treatment will protect windows from mold and mildew
Putty allows you to eliminate cracks and chips on old frames Using metal corners, the window geometry is corrected

Removing old paint from window frames

Paint can be removed thermally or chemically.

Thermal method

To perform thermal cleaning, we will need an industrial hair dryer (heat gun).

It is best to remove old paint using a hair dryer

Do not try to heat up wood with a hair dryer. It will not give the desired temperature (200°). Also, do not use a blowtorch or propane torch - you will only char the surface!

An industrial hair dryer sets the temperature in the range of 200–250°. It is not necessary to go higher, as this will lead to a loss of quality of the material. It is advisable to put a narrow nozzle on the heat-generating hole, which will prevent the glass from heating up. They should be included in the set of such heat devices.

The frame needs to be placed on a narrow edge and rotated as needed. We consistently heat up sections of 20–30 cm, while keeping the hairdryer at a distance of 10–15 cm from the frame. When the paint begins to bubble, remove it with a spatula or shoe knife.

After heating with a hairdryer, the paint is removed from the wood with almost no effort.

Remember that the hair dryer quickly overheats, so follow the regime: 5 minutes of operation - 10 minutes of cooling.

You should not use a sharpened spatula; it will slip over the old paint or, conversely, cut into the surface.

Chemical method

The chemical method is effective only with a small number of layers of old paint. A special reagent, which is sold in hardware stores, is applied to the surface and left for a certain time according to the instructions. Then remove the softened paint with a spatula and rags.

The substances used are toxic, so it is better to do the work outside (or on an open balcony). Also remember about protective equipment: gloves, respirator, goggles.

Putty and primer

Before carrying out this operation, you should carefully examine the window and use a marker to mark all cracks and chips, then walk sandpaper to eliminate obvious roughness. All detected cracks and irregularities should be treated with oil or latex putty.

The puttying process should be given special attention, since the heat-saving properties of windows directly depend on its quality

A rubber spatula is used to complete the work. Excess putty should be removed immediately; after it hardens, this will be problematic.

Wood putty has a certain drying time according to the instructions, which must be maintained.

As soon as the first layer of putty has dried, if necessary, apply a second one. When the second layer has dried, you should go over the putty surfaces with fine-grained sandpaper.

Geometry straightening

The appearance of drafts when closed window, increased audibility of street noise, as well as creaks and significant physical effort required to open or close a window are typical signs of broken window geometry. Check the geometry of the valves, adjust them if necessary and secure the result by installing metal corners.

Please note that window geometry does not always have to obey the rule " right angle" If, for example, the window frame itself is somewhat skewed, then it makes no sense to check the geometry of the window using a square. It is better to pay attention to how the window closes and opens.

The geometry is adjusted by adjusting the tension of the screws located in the window hinges. If, when closing, the window sash catches the frame, adjustment of the upper hinge is required. The lower hinge is responsible for moving the sash to the right/left.

The corners can be screwed in with a regular screwdriver, but it’s faster and easier to do this with a screwdriver

Metal corners are attached to the joints of frame parts and have both decorative and fixing purposes. Right place placement of corners - on the inside of the window. Quantity - four pieces per frame. To install, first prepare the grooves using a chisel. the right size. We insert the corners into the grooves. We check the accuracy of the installation: we check the length of the frame diagonals.

Insulation

There are several ways to reduce heat loss from windows, using:

  • paper for covering windows;
  • silicone sealants;
  • fabric strips;
  • tubular profiles;
  • seals in frame sashes;
  • heat-saving film.

The last two methods are the most effective and aesthetically pleasing.

First, we treat the junction of the glass and sashes with silicone sealant.

Silicone sealant is excellent for insulating wooden windows

Then, along the perimeter of the sash, using a milling cutter at an angle of 45° in the direction of the flashing, we cut out a groove 5 mm deep and remove the chips from the channel. We consistently press the PVC seal into the resulting groove along its entire length, without stretching it.

To facilitate installation of the seal in the groove, you can use a special roller

The seal, in addition to protecting against drafts, provides additional sound insulation.

Recently, they began to use for insulation of windows. energy-saving film. It is transparent, does not impair visibility and has a self-adhesive backing.

Energy-saving film not only saves heat, but also protects the room from excessive sunlight

Its functional features are as follows: the film allows daylight to pass through, but prevents heat transfer from the room, which allows you to save up to 60% of the heat escaping through the windows. The method of applying each specific film is described in detail in the instructions supplied with it.

Window finishing

Before painting the frame, it should be soaked with an antiseptic. This will avoid fungal infections and rotting. If the climate of your region is quite dry, then the antiseptic may not be used. Then priming is carried out. Most suitable for wooden frames alkyd, acrylic and polystyrene primers are considered.

After the primer has dried, the frames can be painted.

There are three different types of paint you can use:

AlkydThe oils and resins that make up its base actively prevent fading and deformation that occurs due to temperature changes. In addition, after painting the frames can be washed with any detergents. White spirit (less often drying oil or turpentine) is used as a solvent.
AcrylicIt is based on water and polymers. It is quite resistant to the sun, precipitation, and abrasion. By adding color you can choose desired shade. Absent bad smell. Dries quickly. Plain water can be used as a solvent.
Dispersive (water-based)The main advantage is the ability to repaint the surface of windows many times without removing layers of old paint. Has good resistance to fading. Inexpensive. Solvent – ​​water.

Painting windows is a simple process, which, however, requires some care.

It is advisable to paint windows in two to three layers. Dilute paint correctly with solvent. It is better to do this as you use it. For example, pour 300–500 grams into a separate container and mix there. Optimal density allows you to create a clean, uniform layer that does not spread.

For the first layer, it is advisable to use a thinner consistency of paint. Do not try to cover up all visible defects at once. The first layer is partially absorbed. Be sure to let it dry thoroughly, otherwise the second layer applied to a damp surface will become covered with wrinkles and bubbles.

To avoid the unpleasant procedure of removing paint from glass, use a special masking tape, having previously glued it to the glass close to the frame.

If you don't want to paint the frames, you can simply varnish them. Varnishing happens:

  • Opaque - using pigmented varnishes that completely hide the texture and color of the wood;
  • Transparent - colorless varnish is used for it, preserving the natural appearance of the wood.

Of course, there are other types of finishing for window frames, such as imitation and special. They are quite labor-intensive and require a certain level of professional training, as well as the use of special tools.

After the finishing coating has dried, a new one can be installed if necessary. window fittings. The process of replacing hinges requires comment here. First, we correctly determine the place of their attachment. For this purpose, we insert the frame into the opening and fix it with wedges. Only when an equal gap between the frame and the opening is achieved along the entire perimeter do we mark the locations of the installation points. Using a chisel, we make a groove for future seating of the hinge and screw in the screws.

Video: DIY window restoration

The following video shows in detail all the stages of window frame restoration.

Updating wooden windows with your own hands is not that difficult. Properly performed restoration will enable your windows to serve even longer. long years, and the family budget will be saved, since you will not have to replace old windows with new ones. Good luck with your renovation!

Born in 1977 in Donetsk, Ukraine. Graduated from the Donetsk Polytechnic Institute (now Donetsk State Technical University) with a degree in Automated systems management. Worked at the Donetsk Metallurgical Plant. In 1997 he moved to Moscow, where for 8 years he worked in several construction teams.

Fresh and organic vegetables are always welcome “guests” on our table. Owners summer cottages They make a lot of effort to grow “their” cucumbers, tomatoes and peppers. However, hard work alone is not enough. After all, to obtain high yields, it is necessary to create suitable conditions for seedlings to grow and develop. Therefore, a greenhouse is an excellent solution - you can build a structure with your own hands from inexpensive and accessible materials.

Today, many people in their homes are removing old window frames, replacing them with convenient and practical double-glazed windows. But such frames can be given a “second life” by using them to build a greenhouse or greenhouse. So, today we will look in detail at how to build a “house for vegetables” without significant costs.

Greenhouse from old frames: pros and cons

Before starting construction of a greenhouse, you should consider both the advantages and disadvantages of such a project. First, about the advantages:

  • Affordable project cost. Enough to collect required quantity unnecessary window frames left over after renovation, and you are provided with the basic material. This is much cheaper than using new blocks to build a greenhouse.
  • Quick installation. After the foundation has been poured and dried, all that remains is to assemble the frames into one whole - and the greenhouse, built with your own hands, is ready. This stage will only take a few days, but you should carefully prepare for it.
  • Set of available tools. A hammer and nails are all you need.

Helpful advice: if possible, it is better to use a power tool - a jigsaw and a screwdriver. If your household does not have these useful things, you can easily rent them.

“Disadvantages” of a greenhouse made from old window frames:

  • Constant maintenance of the structure. Old wood dries out, and cracks form through which moisture and other unfavorable factors from the environment can penetrate.
  • Limited service life. If old window blocks were used as raw materials for the manufacture of a greenhouse, then their service life is quite short. True, such a “house” for vegetables and seedlings will definitely serve for 5 - 7 years.

Note! Old window frames - suitable material for the construction of a greenhouse for a “home” plot. However, for growing, for example, cucumbers, on an “industrial” scale, it is better to choose a metal profile or steel pipes. Of course, this will cost much more, but the design will also be more reliable.

Greenhouse made from window frames for dummies

Before you begin construction, you should think through important details. For example, should I do wooden frame Or can I skip this step? This will depend on the thickness and configuration of the assembled window units. With a significant thickness of the frames, it will be possible to do without a frame completely.

We stock up on materials:

  • Rubble and sand- for the foundation of a future building. Of course, you can build a greenhouse from window frames without a foundation, but the reliability will be questionable.
  • Boards and beams of different sections- for wall studs 50 x 100 mm, for corner studs - 100 x 100 mm.
  • Fittings- nails, door and window hinges, locks and handles on the door, steel cornice, antiseptic for wooden surfaces. When constructing a roof from steel sheets, you will have to purchase this material as well.
  • Old frames.


Required tools:

  • hammer
  • screwdriver - possibly electric
  • a circular saw
  • chisel
  • wood drills
  • level
  • square
  • roulette
  • piece of cord
  • polyurethane foam
  • screws

DIY greenhouse - drawings

Any construction begins with the design of the future structure. However, in our case, you just need to assemble the structure from ready-made modules. We carry out the following preparatory work:

  1. We lay out the window frames on a flat piece of ground, choosing parts for the sides and ends. We achieve the most ideal compatibility of “puzzles”.
  2. We measure and record the results of the layout.
  3. Let's do detailed drawing on paper indicating all the parameters and dimensions of the parts.
  4. We are preparing three more drawings - the foundation, frame and roofing part of the future greenhouse made from window frames.


How to build a greenhouse from window frames with your own hands - step-by-step guide (with photos and videos)

So, after acquiring and preparing all necessary tools you can start working.

Step #1. Choosing a place for a greenhouse

The site for the building should be chosen taking into account the fact that the plants will require maximum access to sunlight. Therefore, there should be no permanent buildings or tall trees, obscuring sunlight.

If you are planning to build a greenhouse using film frames, you should choose a site that is not exposed to strong winds. Otherwise, the microclimate of the structure may be disrupted, which will adversely affect the plants inside. However, even a glazed greenhouse is not recommended to be placed in a windy area to avoid stress.

The soil must be dry and dense, since in a wet and swampy environment subsidence and subsequent deformation of the wooden structure are possible.



Step #2. Foundation for a greenhouse

The selected area needs to be cleared - remove debris, uproot roots, weeds and stumps.

We transfer the dimensions of the future greenhouse to the site and drive small stakes around the perimeter, between which we stretch a cord or rope. Now in each corner and near the sides you need to dig small holes up to 0.5 meters deep - at the level of soil freezing. Pour crushed stone into the holes (about 10 cm) and compact it.

Now the next step is formwork - we insert an asbestos-cement pipe (diameter 10 - 15 cm) into each hole, level it, and insert reinforcement. The structure should be strengthened in position with bricks and then filled with concrete. We assemble on the foundation lower crown made of timber and fastened with iron plates.

If you plan to build a greenhouse from window frames without a foundation, then you can simply make a frame from timber and lay it on the ground. For waterproofing purposes, you can use roofing material in which the beams are wrapped (pictured).

As a rule, concrete dries completely after a couple of weeks. After this, the plane under the greenhouse along the entire perimeter of the foundation can be laid out with bricks. This creates a flat surface, which greatly facilitates subsequent assembly.

Step #3. Assembling a greenhouse frame from window frames

The assembly of the structure is carried out in the following sequence: installation of pillars and a frame made of timber, to which we attach the window frames.

Important! If you plan to use timber rather than boards for the frame, be sure to take into account their thickness. After all, a beam that is too thin simply will not support the weight of the entire structure and can fall apart at any moment like a house of cards.

First, measure the width of the window frames. Along the perimeter of the foundation, we measure segments whose length exceeds the width of the frames by 5 - 7 cm and mark these places. At these points we fix the posts made of timber of the same height. Then we pull the thread over the pillars according to the level in order to correct the tops. If there are protruding parts, you need to cut them down.

We take the timber and lay it horizontally on the “tops”. Thus, “cells” for window frames are obtained. Now you need to install the frames, not forgetting the door and window, and securely strengthen all the parts.

By using polyurethane foam We seal the gaps between the modules and the pillars. Professionals recommend puttingtying or painting dry foam, which will avoid drying out.

Step No. 4. Making a roof

The roof can be single-pitch or gable - let's focus on the first option. First, we lay the boards on the wall frame under the support of the rafters. At the same time, it is important not to forget to mark the slots for installing the inclined beams of the greenhouse roof from the frames.

We place racks in each corner of the side wall - this creates a slope. Between the posts we place a block onto which we fix the front roof board. Place the side boards into the roof and attach them to the front board with screws. We make grooves under the rafter boards in the outer board, for which we use a template (the letter “P”, cut taking into account the width and height of the nest).

Now we pull the cord and check that all the rafter beams are in the same plane. We place a roofing covering on top - it is advisable to make it from cellular polycarbonate, glass or film.

Each of these materials has its own advantages and disadvantages. If you build a greenhouse from frames under film, then such a structure will not place excessive load on the foundation. True, polyethylene needs to be periodically watered with water to knock down dust and dirt. Many people prefer polycarbonate as a coating. All that remains is to attach the door and ventilation window and the design is ready.

Greenhouses made from window frames: photo

There are many different greenhouses - small, large, lean-to, gable, arched. The photo shows different variants designs.








As you can see, a do-it-yourself greenhouse made from window frames is not such a difficult construction (even for “dummies”). Here it is important to carefully study all the details and carefully take measurements. And, of course, stock up on patience and tools - and things will definitely work out! After all, such a greenhouse can be equipped with a heating system, water supply, light and other amenities. Good luck with your work!

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How to restore old wooden windows yourself so as not to buy new ones

Hello. In this article I will tell you how to update old wooden windows with your own hands. I understand that there are fewer and fewer such windows and topics related to plastic double glazed windows more relevant. But, since glazing, originally from the Soviet past, is still used by some thrifty owners to this day, it would be wrong not to say anything about the restoration of such structures.

A few words about the goals and results of restoration

When we talk about old wooden windows, we imagine a standard design of one solid part and a hinged sash with a window. But, in fact, half a century ago glazing was produced in various configurations, and therefore the repair of old windows requires an individual approach to the window in accordance with its structural features.

What elements of window structures are restored during restoration?

Let's take a closer look at each of the stages restoration work listed in the table.

Glass replacement

So, imagine the following situation: the glass in your window is broken and you don’t know how to replace it. In fact, there is nothing complicated here.

To complete the work we will need following materials and tool:

  • Glass corresponding in size to the piece that requires replacement;
  • Bead of suitable thickness or window putty;
  • Nails 10 mm long;
  • Narrow-nose pliers;
  • A small hammer weighing no more than 300 grams;
  • Masking tape or electrical tape;
  • Glass cutter;
  • Square and long metal ruler;
  • Black marker.

The instructions for replacing old glass with new ones are as follows:

  • We dismantle the old glazing bead or remove a layer of old putty, depending on the type of glazing;
  • To avoid injury, carefully remove the old glass;
  • Clearing seat along the perimeter of the frame from old paint or putty;
  • We check the compliance of the angles by applying a right angle to each corner of the sash;

If the angles around the perimeter of the seat are not straight, you will have to align the sash or cut the glass taking into account the angle that exists.

  • We take the exact dimensions of the seat and transfer them to the glass using a square and a ruler;
  • Next, we apply a metal ruler along the marks and guide the glass cutter along the ruler;
  • Apply a thin strip of acrylic or silicone sealant to the previously cleaned perimeter of the seat;
  • We place the glass in the prepared opening and press it evenly around the perimeter of the seat so that the sealant spreads evenly;

  • Along the perimeter of the junction of the glass and the frame we also apply thin layer sealant and at the same time trying to fill the gap between the glass and the wood;
  • We cut off the ends of the glazing bead at an angle of 45 degrees;

  • We press the glazing bead to each of the four sides and nail it with nails in increments of 10-15 cm;

Without experience, you can easily scratch the glass with a hammer. To prevent this from happening, I recommend wrapping the striking part of the hammer with electrical tape or masking tape.

  • Along the perimeter, we wipe off any excess sealant that has protruded from under the bead from the glass;
  • Use wood putty to fill the gap between the frame and the bead;
  • Once the sealant and putty have dried, you can begin sanding and painting.

How to cut glass

Today, in every city there are organizations where you can purchase glass of the desired and desired colors. Of course, in these same organizations the glass you ordered can be cut to the dimensions you specify.

By the way, the price of glass already includes the cutting service. But, despite this, I still believe that there should be a glass cutter at home and you need to be able to use it.

Let’s say you purchased a glass cutter, how to use it for its intended purpose?

The instructions for cutting glass are simple. Draw a line along which we will cut. You can only draw on glass with a permanent marker, that is, a marker that does not erase.

Next, apply a straight, long ruler to the line. We move the glass cutter along the ruler with slight pressure from one end of the ruler to the other. The correct pressure when pressing can be determined by a specific creaking sound.

Bead or putty

What is better for installing glass, glazing bead or putty?

I find that glazing bead placed over caulk is much better than putty, as the putty will begin to dry out and crack over time. But, if there is no bead of the required thickness, you can apply putty by laying it out in a rope around the perimeter of the glazing and smoothing it, imitating a bead.

The question is, if the glass is held in place by a glazing bead nailed in place, what will hold it in place if putty is used?

In this case, we proceed as follows. We place the glass on the seat and drive in nails along the entire perimeter so that they lie flat on the surface of the glass.

If the nails do not fit tightly to the glass, the window will rattle when loud sounds come from outside.

If you are interested in the topic of using window putty, write about it in the comments and in one of the following articles I will definitely talk about several ways to prepare putty with your own hands.

Restoration and replacement of accessories

Conventionally, all fittings on wooden windows are divided into:

  • Loops— hinged mechanisms that are simultaneously attached along the inner perimeter of the frame and along the outer perimeter of the sash;
  • Locking systems– most often these are bolts and a latch handle with a strike plate mounted on the frame.

What problems can there be with the fittings?

Problems three:

  • Firstly, metal moving parts, sooner or later, rust, which negatively affects their operation;
  • Secondly, when painting old windows is of poor quality, the fittings are also painted over, which negatively affects its functionality;
  • Thirdly, the hinges sag under the weight of the sashes, which negatively affects the quality of the vestibule.

All previously listed problems can be eliminated by replacing the fittings from old to new. Moreover, butterfly hinges and a set of locking handles and latches can still be purchased to this day in most hardware stores.

However, if the purchase price of accessories seems high to you, we proceed as follows:

  • We remove the sash from the hinges - to do this, unscrew the hinge or squeeze it out of the hinges, and then pull out the turning pin;

The pin inside the hinges will probably be soured, so before pulling it out, I recommend spraying WD-40 into the gap. You can begin dismantling the sash in a minute, since during this time the lubricant will have time to take effect.

  • Next, unscrew the screws that hold the hinges and remove both halves;
  • Remove the handles and other elements of the locking system;
  • We treat the fittings with paint remover, and then clean them paintwork;

Be prepared for what old paint applied in several layers, and therefore the remover will not help immediately and will also need to be applied in several layers. In addition, try to use a remover with an anti-corrosion effect.

  • The cleaned fittings are washed to remove residues of the remover and coated with a rust converter;
  • The fittings are painted with modern paints and varnishes for metal;
  • After drying, the fittings are installed in their original place, and the moving elements in the rubbing areas are lubricated.

One more thing - when replacing or restoring the fittings, it will probably turn out that the original holes for the screws are broken. What to do in this case?

Someone tries to move the loops and locking mechanisms, but I believe that this is not a solution, since sometimes these parts have nowhere to move. Some people use longer screws than originally. But this solution is also short-lived, since long screws will quickly wobble in broken holes.

You can strengthen the holes for the screws by cutting out small pegs and driving them into the broken holes. We cut off the rest of the peg flush with the surface. After this, you can confidently screw in the screws and not be afraid that they will come out over time.

Window insulation using Swedish technology

In the photo - processing the sash with an electric planer

Instructions for restoring an old wooden window would be incomplete without insulating them according to Swedish technology.

This is done as follows:

  • The sashes are removed from the frame;
  • Use a plane to level the perimeter of the sash;
  • A groove is cut out along the perimeter of the sash using a router;
  • A rolling roller presses the sealing strand into the groove;
  • The ends of the bundle are inserted into one another and also rolled into the groove.

At this point, window insulation using Swedish technology can be considered complete. However, in addition to installing the seal, fittings are adjusted and the tightness of the glazing around the perimeter of the bead is checked.

DIY painting

In order to update antique windows made of wood, they first need to be painted with high quality.

Painting is done in two ways:

  1. The old paintwork is matted and applied over it new paint – a budget option which is done in haste;
  2. The old coating is completely removed, the wood is puttied, sanded, primed and only then painted.

Of course, the second option will allow you to achieve best result painting, but the price of such restoration will be high. The fact is that you will first have to dismantle the sashes from the frame, remove all the fittings from them, remove the glass, and only after that start preparing the wood.

Old paint can be removed blowtorch, but this method requires special experience, otherwise the wood can be burned. As alternative solution You can use chemicals, namely paint removers. It is not customary to use chemicals to clean lumber, but such treatment will not harm frames and sashes.

After cleaning the old coating, you will most likely see relief surface. In order for the paint to lay evenly, the relief must be puttied with special putties, dried, and then sanded with sandpaper with a variable degree of grain.

Both the inside and outside of the window can be painted with pentaphthalic enamel PF-115 and PF-116, and as a primer I recommend covering the wood with a continuous layer of drying oil. The use of a primer in this case is necessary not to ensure better adhesion, but to reduce absorption and reduce paint consumption.

Second life for unnecessary windows

So, we have looked at the main points related to the restoration of old window structures. Now I propose to find out how to use old window frames that are no longer needed.

Let's say you ordered new double-glazed windows in PVC profile, which means the old windows will be dismantled and you will need to do something with them. The first thing that comes to mind is the idea of ​​taking it to a landfill, since such a huge thing simply won’t fit in regular trash cans.

On the other hand, if there is Vacation home You can use lumber that has become unnecessary to greater benefit. So, I’ll give you a couple of tips on where to put the bulky structure if you have a country house or dacha:

  • First, if you remove the glass, the wood can be cut and stored in a woodpile. Agree that in winter dry firewood for heating the stove will be useful;
  • Secondly, you can dismantle the doors and the rest of the fittings, and make a sandbox for children from the frame. Everything is very simple, you just need to lay the frame on flat ground, paint it, and then pour dry seeded sand inside;
  • Thirdly, if desired, you can assemble a greenhouse or a greenhouse from several unnecessary windows. Agree that your own greenhouse is almost free - this is a serious argument in favor of not throwing away supposedly unnecessary windows;

Old double glazing not only retains heat well, but also allows sunlight to pass through perfectly. As a result, the air temperature in the greenhouse during the daytime will be several degrees above zero;

  • Fourthly, old windows can be installed in an old log house, where they will serve faithfully for many years. For these purposes, an opening of the appropriate size is cut in the log wall. A frame is installed in the opening using floating timber technology, and a frame dismantled from a city apartment is installed into this frame;

The only problem with reinstalling old windows is that they need to be carefully installed. That is, when dismantling, we do not cut the frame into pieces, but carefully break it out in order to reassemble it later.

  • Fifthly, unnecessary glazing from a city apartment can be useful for arranging an open veranda at your dacha or for arranging an open balcony.

Don’t know how to glaze a balcony from old windows yourself? Yes, actually there is nothing complicated about it. It is enough to assemble a wooden frame from a timber of the appropriate size and the frames can already be attached to it. But it is important to understand that the sheathing and fastening of the frame to the timber must be as strong as possible.

By the way, if the heat-saving qualities when glazing a balcony are not fundamentally important, you can refuse double sashes. The use of single sashes when glazing a balcony allows you to reduce the weight of the structure and reduce the load on the load-bearing structure. As a result, the operation of the installed windows will be safer.

Conclusion

Now you know what you can do from old window frames so as not to throw them away. However, before using wooden windows for other purposes than their intended purpose, I recommend thinking about restoring them, especially since it is so simple.

So, what could I tell you, if I forgot anything, ask in the comments, I will definitely answer. Also, don't forget to watch the video in this article.

DIY gazebo made from window frames. Step-by-step instruction with photo

Master class "Do-it-yourself gazebo from old window frames"

Master class on building a gazebo. Feng Shui gazebo

Author: Natalya Aleksandrovna Ermakova, Teacher, Municipal Budgetary educational institution additional education children "Children's Art School named after A. A. Bolshakov", Velikiye Luki, Pskov region.
Description: The material may be useful to anyone who is interested in creativity, gardening and landscape design, to all those who love their garden and are engaged in its improvement.
Purpose: The gazebo will serve as a wonderful relaxing place for the whole family, creating its own unique design and a wonderful mood.
Target: creating a gazebo from old window frames.
Tasks: build a gazebo from scrap materials, create a resting place for the whole family from old frames, protected from wind and bad weather.

Hello, dear guests! The veneration of nature and the perception of it as part of man himself was previously manifested in pagan religions. But in Slavic countries, pre-Christian religions have long since died out. But the Chinese still believe that any tree, blade of grass or stream can influence a person’s destiny, giving him positive energy or, conversely, taking away part of his vitality. The harmony between people and nature is called geomancy, and Tibetan monks live by its laws. In the West, only one branch of geomancy is known - Feng Shui. This direction deals with the arrangement of a person’s personal space - his home, plot and even wardrobe. It is believed that a feng shui garden helps a person live in happiness, attracts necessary energies(love, fame and other things). And the more carefully you arrange every corner of the space, the faster you will achieve your goals.


Today we will talk about such an important element that must be in your yard or dacha, and to be more precise, this work will be devoted to an ordinary, but so necessary gazebo.
Beautiful gazebo on summer cottage can become its main decoration and main highlight. Since ancient times, people have built small cozy houses in gardens, which allowed them to admire the beauty of nature. At correct location on a personal plot, a gazebo can attract positive energy.


Gazebos can perform various functions. This could be a small cozy building in the depths of the garden, conducive to contemplation and reflection alone. And there are others, those who are able to gather the whole family under their roof on a day off. You can easily have a drink there aromatic tea and have fun communicating with loved ones.
Depending on the sector in which the gazebo will be located, its shape is selected:
-North-round and octagonal gazebos;
-Northeast-square, rectangular, round;
-East – square, rectangular;
-Southeast-square, rectangular, octagonal gazebos;
-South - octagonal, square;
-Southwest-square, rectangular;
-West-square and round;
-Northwest-square and round gazebos;
-In the center of the site - octagonal.
Each direction of the world is responsible for a certain aspect of life: wealth, longevity, love, creativity, career, family and children.


Dimensions, shape and methods decorative design gazebos depend solely on the imagination and wishes of the owner of the site. The optimal place to place a gazebo is a space that is closed from the noise and dust of the street, from which there is a view of any decorative element or a composition pleasing to the eye. If there is an artificial or artificial reservoir on the site natural origin, then it is better to locate this structure precisely on its shore.
It is advisable that the gazebo be protected from the wind by a hedge of bushes or a group of trees. It would also be useful to place flower beds near it, alpine coaster, suitable garden sculptures and everything that will make this corner of the garden attractive to all family members. At the same time, we should not forget that all the details must be combined with each other and create a complete picture.


When installing a gazebo, you should take into account its lighting. It must be selected in accordance with its purpose and future functions. If you plan to gather in the gazebo in the evenings for any activities - board games, handicrafts or reading, the lighting should be bright enough, but not blinding. If you want to give this corner of the garden a romantic look, you should illuminate the path to the gazebo and place sconces with dim light on its walls.


According to an ancient Chinese proverb, a person has three main things: fate, chance and feng shui. Fate gives us a chance to get acquainted with Feng Shui to improve our health and our lives. Everyone has their own destiny. We cannot change our origin, gender, nationality or date of birth. But every person has a chance to get acquainted with Feng Shui in order to change and improve not only their health, but their entire life. Feng Shui is unique folk wisdom, which has collected centuries-old observations of nature, its changes and signs.


1.Don't sit on the corner.
“Seven years without reciprocity,” you say? If only that! According to Feng Shui, a protruding corner aimed at a person, be it the corner of a table, cabinet or any other, sends “poisoned arrows” at the poor fellow, which will leave him not only without reciprocity, but also without money, health and luck.
2. Don't say goodbye over the threshold.
“You’ll quarrel,” they say. That's right: the threshold is an energy barrier separating two worlds. On one side - “ours”, on the other - “alien”. The invisible border prevents contact from being established, and things and energy transferred “from world to world” are lost for both worlds. So it turns out that the connection between the “contact participants” is destroyed.
3. Don't cook when you're in a bad mood.
This is what mothers and grandmothers teach novice housewives. The older generation is absolutely right: food absorbs the surrounding energy, and we, by absorbing this same food, receive a corresponding energy charge along with calories and vitamins. Borscht and cutlets, “charged” with a quarrel, news of another terrorist attack, or emotions generated by a television “horror” movie, are quite capable of poisoning a family.
4. Don't stand behind someone's back.
- we say, shivering chillily, even if there is someone quite close and dear behind us. And the point is not in the ancient instinct that makes you fear a creeping enemy, but in the fact that the unprotected rear itself poses a threat. Feng Shui considers the lack of support and support from behind to be the weakest energy position. Moreover, this is equally important for both the person and the home. There should always be a wall or at least a screen behind you, and the rear of your house should definitely be protected by a high hill or at least a neighbor's house.
5. Don't paint yourself into a corner.
Another extremely unfavorable position according to Feng Shui. The corner is considered a place that can drain energy from a person - a kind of domestic vampire. It’s not for nothing that a child who has been naughty for a long time is put with his nose in a corner - so that he loses the excess of hooligan energy (the main thing is not to overexpose your beloved child there...).
6. Don't look in a cracked mirror.
According to Feng Shui, not only cracked mirrors are harmful, but also mirrors with patterns, mirror tiles, and other surfaces that break, crush the reflection. All this fragments and destroys energy, which will affect, first of all, health.
7. A mirror in your pocket will protect you from the enemy.
We still believe that when meeting an ill-wisher, putting a mirror in your pocket helps - of course, with the reflective side out. It will reflect all his bad thoughts and intentions. And also - all negative energy directed against you, comments Feng Shui. And he advises hanging a mirror above the door or window to protect your home from adverse influences.
8. Don’t show it off on yourself.
We warn a person who talks about someone’s illnesses. According to Feng Shui, the mechanism of the evil eye in this case is as follows: by pointing with a finger, we send an energy charge. At the same time, naming the disease, we give this charge the appropriate “coloring”: we fill it with accurate information about the diagnosis.
9. Don't come back halfway.
- “there will be no way.” Of course, says Feng Shui! Remember what we told you about the threshold? All these leaps “from world to world” are quite energy-intensive - this is probably known to avid travelers who often cross state borders. If you had to return, restore your strength: sit down (take some strength at home), look in the mirror (reflecting, your energy doubles).
10. Run under the rainbow - you will be happy.
Of course, those who remember physics understand: it is in principle impossible to do this. But even seeing a rainbow - a symbol of the Gates of Heaven - is considered a good sign. And Feng Shui recommends “taming” the rainbow and placing it in own home. That is why arched openings are so favorable - when passing under them, each time we “step under the rainbow” and receive the protection of Heaven.


Materials and tools:
- old window frames
-wooden beams 50:50 (6 meters 13 pieces)
-roulette
-hammer, nails 3, 2*50, 3.5*80
-screwdriver, wood screws 3.8*32
- impact drill (metal drill)
-water-based stain (lemon), water-based emulsion, brush
- red enamel (terracotta) 6 kg, white spirit (solvent), brush
-cement, construction sand, river sand
-a bucket for cement mortar, 2 mayonnaise buckets, a trowel
-shovel
-saw
-perforated fasteners and corners
-ladder
-stapler, fabric paintings (painting on fabric)
The cement mortar is made in a ratio of 1:4. That is, for 1 bucket (mayonnaise) of cement you will need 4 buckets of sand. The sand should be sifted, or simply by hand, and that’s exactly what I did, remove large stones, sift the sand through your fingers. A construction bucket requires 2 buckets of cement, 8 buckets of sand and 2.5 buckets of water. When all the ingredients are poured into the container, they must be mixed using a hammer drill with a concrete mixer screwed into it, literally 7-10 minutes, until smooth.

Progress of the master class:

We begin work by preparing materials. The beam needs to be cut in half, three meters each, leaving one beam unsawn. Then the beams must be covered with stain to preserve the wood and ensure longer service life.


The timber has dried and we begin construction of the walls of the gazebo. We connect two large frames together using timber. We nail the timber to the frame from the bottom and top sides with large nails (80*). My area is very small, so I immediately place the finished wall at the intended location.


I'm not a builder, but I really like to make something useful out of unnecessary things. Therefore, I don’t have a specific construction plan; everything is a work in progress. As they say, appetite comes with eating! I paint the frames on the inside with the remains of water-based paint diluted with yellow gouache. In order for the background to have an even character, the color is applied by a kind of slapping of the brush on the glass.
In the art of Feng Shui, the color yellow indicates cheerfulness, cheerfulness, and brilliance. It symbolizes the hot and shining sun, a warm sunny day, gold, longevity. Light yellow color is best suited to create an atmosphere of friendship and creativity. Yellow and gold are the colors of the earth. They can provide a sense of stability, hope and happiness.


Next, I determine the place where the corner of the gazebo will be, and we will begin construction from there. Let me get ahead a little, I will secure each pillar with fragments of brick and subsequently fill it with cement.


We moisten the ground with water and pour in cement; the post should be left motionless for about a day.


Then you need to assemble the second wall of the gazebo, it is assembled in the same way as the first, we knock down the frames using a beam.


This side will consist of three frames, smaller in size, but of the same height.


Then two finished walls need to be installed at the first pillar in the shape of the letter "L". And fasten them to the base of the post using large nails driven from the edges of the frames. First, we nail one frame to the post, then the second, do not forget to monitor the level of the walls so that their edges are at the same height (1).
Near the end of the second unpainted wall, we dig a hole for the second post, place the post there close to the frame and nail it together with large nails (2). For greater connection strength, we use perforated fasteners for the timber. We attach them using wood screws and a Phillips screwdriver.
That part of the gazebo where the painted yellow the frame will be lower, the opposite side will be higher. This is necessary for the roof so that there is a good slope of water. For the lower part we need three beams, you need to immediately measure the length that suits you, and saw off the excess timber with a saw.


Now we move to the other side of the gazebo. We also dig a hole, install timber, and fasten it to the frame with nails.
Next we will continue the wall with a frame from interior door. At the required distance we dig a hole for the fourth pillar.


First, we knock down the outer beam with the door with nails, then install it in place.


We fasten the frames together using perforated fasteners (an iron plate with holes), wood screws and a screwdriver in several places on the inside and outside of the gazebo.


Using timber we measure the third side of our building. The line can be marked using a shovel, drawing a guide line on the ground.


This is how the frame turned out. The top beam is secured with nails and fasteners.
The gazebo has L-shape, near the wind-protected sides there is a sofa, and in the middle there is a large family hearth. Since our family loves fire very much, and a big fire is an integral part of our family evening, two walls must be left open.
The fire pit was laid out with stones and cement a year ago, but has not yet been fully completed.



Now I want to give the gazebo a look, let's paint it.


The color I chose was terracotta; according to Feng Shui, this is the color of earth, confidence and stability; it is considered very pleasant for human perception.
Terracotta the color will suit people who cannot imagine their life without vivid emotions and impressions, who are gambling and passionate, who adore adventure. Let's break it down into its tonal components! The red hue is considered aggressive and ardent, but becoming clayey, it calms down a little. If the scarlet color can be compared to the beauty of a young girl, then terracotta is a mature femininity. From orange he got energy, unabashed joy, and the ability to cheer up with just his appearance. And from brown there is a certain balance, dimension, depth. With all this, terracotta is a natural color associated with nature, rocky mountains, sunsets. For those who cannot afford frequent rest, this shade can become a kind of pill from a routine lifestyle. There are so many emotions hidden in it that you can comprehend this color for a long time. But don't forget one simple thing– loving a color and feeling comfortable in its environment are completely different things. Terracotta color in details will suit For a romantic and sublime interior, terracotta color practically does not combine with cool tones.
It is believed that this color is pleasant to the eye and can enhance the feeling of security and safety and goes perfectly with white and its shades (roof-white metal). Feng Shui recommends using terracotta color in paintings placed at the entrance to the room if you are afraid of theft in your home or workplace.


Since there was no construction plan, the material for the roof had not yet been purchased. Now we need to measure the size of the gazebo, I got the size of the gazebo 3 by 4 meters. We calculate this footage by the size of the corrugated sheets (1.5 by 1.2) - in total, we need 6 sheets.


While we are waiting for the delivery of corrugated sheets, we continue the construction of the walls of the gazebo. Let's make the area near the sofa more sheltered from the wind. We will work on the same principle as with other walls. First, we fill the bottom and top of the frame with timber, then we connect the frame with the corner beam.


We dig a hole under the timber on the other side of the frame and fasten the parts with nails.




Near door frame We will also make a small extension of the wall using the same principle. Then we will completely paint the gazebo and the posts for the roof frame.


In some places there is no glass in the frames; I will disguise these voids using fabric paintings (painting on fabric) and a stapler.


This is how the picture gallery turned out. Moreover, all the paintings are placed in accordance with Feng Shui recommendations.
Rules for placing paintings according to Feng Shui.




Using the remaining canvases we create a tablecloth for the table in the gazebo area.


It's time for the roof. We lay out a sheet of corrugated board and beams on the ground; we need to distribute them evenly over the entire area of ​​the sheet.


Then you need to fasten the timber with sheets of corrugated board. This can be done using self-tapping screws, this method is more expensive (screws are sold individually). First, a hole is drilled with a drill (a metal drill), then a self-tapping screw is screwed in.