How to heat a stove with raw wood: basic techniques. How to properly heat a stove with wood, types of firewood

We all know well that heat rises and cold rises down. And we all saw that the flame also usually rushes upward. And we naturally want to start ignition from the bottom of the firewood stack in the firebox. We place a small fire made of paper, wood chips or birch bark in front of the firewood and set it on fire. If the wood is dry, and our wood fire is sufficient, the flame from it gradually ignites the ends of our logs, and the stove begins to hum - ignition has taken place. Sometimes kindling is placed below, under the firewood.

Most often they drown it this way. If your firewood is old, well-dried (it has lain for a year under a canopy in a woodpile or in a wood shed with a vent, you can do this. The firewood will catch fire in any way. But what if it is not completely dry, and there is nothing else to burn? Then you need a lot of kindling, even specially dried dry logs to start the process.The torment begins with igniting the stove.

But there is one detail here that can make our life much easier.

What if we start ignition not from below, but from above? Shall we set up our kindling fire at the top of the bookmark? After all, in order to ignite a mass of bookmarks from below, you need to heat up a fairly large mass of wood. And if we place our fire on top of the logs, then nothing will interfere with its burning. It will easily flare up and begin to warm up neighboring areas of logs, gradually including them in the combustion process. Then ignition will occur more smoothly, easily and with less kindling chips.

How to do this in practice?

Let's add firewood (we'll talk about how much to put in the firebox separately). We take out the middle top log, and in its place in the hollow we build our kindling fire. And we set it on fire. When logs burn from above, they are involved in the process gradually and burn more smoothly. This method uses the stowage much more efficiently and evenly, and the efficiency of using firewood increases. Try it and see in practice that this is better.

Oxygen

The combustion process also requires air, or rather oxygen from the air. Without oxygen, there is no oxidation and no combustion. To process hydrocarbons without oxygen, special soil microorganisms are needed. This is what happens when organic matter is processed in a compost heap. But there the process of heat release is slow. We need it quickly. That's why we build ovens rather than build compost heaps. Although people have learned to use them to heat rooms. But that's a completely different story.

Air (oxygen) is supplied through the blower door (unless you are heating a non-Russian stove - there the air intake occurs differently). And then through the grate the air reaches the firewood. But in order for air to flow in all the time, the same amount of it must be removed from the source of the flame. Otherwise, the fire, having used up all the oxygen supply, will go out. This is what happens if you flood the stove and forget to open the valve on the pipe. This happened: smoke poured into the room, and the kindling went out.

When a fire burns outside, air intake from below is ensured by the rise of heated gases above the flame. A natural craving arises. And indoors we make a pipe. See the evolution of the hearth here. Heated gases go upward through the pipe, carrying away combustion products (ideally CO2 and H2O, and in practice also unburned wood in the form smoke) and thereby create air suction from below the firebox. It is he who resumes the process.

The conclusion is this: if there is not enough air, the fire goes out, if there is a lot, the process goes faster, the combustion temperature rises, our hydrocarbons burn out (oxidize to the final state of water and carbon dioxide) more fully. The efficiency of using firewood is higher.

However, there is always an optimum - in any process there is a combination of conditions when its effectiveness is the highest.

For our needs - space heating - a certain average state is required. Burning too slow - firewood is used inefficiently, its consumption increases, more soot is released, clogging chimneys, and smokier gases impair draft. Too high a temperature will cause the oven to overheat, more heat flies down the chimney.

Why is it bad to melt and heat the stove with sawdust?

Sawdust, although shredded wood, is too small and therefore quite dense in composition. There is little air between the particles. So burn the sawdust a big problem. They need to be poured little by little onto the burning wood, stirred to add air. Otherwise it burns upper layer, dense ash creates an airtight blanket and it extinguishes the underlying layers. The combustion turns into smoldering, and the fire may go out completely. Well, pouring them into the oven is a real pain: and littering them with dangerous garbage in front of the oven is easy, and also troublesome. Let's forget about them. It's better to layer them compost heap or use it in the toilet. This is where they come in handy.

Wood-burning stoves are still very often used today country houses, especially in baths, where you simply cannot do without it. Of course, it would be possible to install modern devices, made of metal, but the traditional Russian bathhouse is a brick oven, safe and reliable. Especially, great amount generations of craftsmen have brought the design of a wood-burning stove to maximum quality indicators. So, don’t worry about which oven is best to choose. Better think about how to properly heat a stove with wood?

For many, this may seem like an insignificant problem. Place the wood in the firebox, light it and wait for the air temperature to reach the required limits. Everything is good in words, but in reality everything is different. Therefore, first we will deal with the question of how to properly heat a bathhouse with wood, then we will move on to the main house. Although both the processes are almost the same, there are some differences.

Features of the stove firing process

Let's start with warnings that will affect the quality of operation of the heating unit.

Attention! At the core efficient work wood stove lie: her good condition, the ability to light the fire correctly, the quality of the firewood.

Furnace condition

This is an important indicator, because the heat loss of the device will depend on it. For example, a small gap between the combustion chamber door and the wall brick wall reduces work efficiency by 10%. Why is this happening? Because cold air will enter this gap, which, under the influence of draft, will draw thermal energy through the chimney. Just 2mm of clearance and you can count the losses.

Firewood must be stacked correctly

For example, an open firebox without a door reduces efficiency by 40%. And this means a decrease in temperature and extra firewood. There are obvious monetary losses, plus an increase in the process of melting the bath. Therefore, recommendations:

Carry out repairs to the brick kiln at least once a year. Pay attention to the cracks and gaps that appear at the points of contact various designs. Under the influence of humidity and temperature changes, even brickwork may crack. Repairs are best carried out in the summer.
Experts recommend cleaning the stove chimney two or three times a year. When wood burns, a large amount of soot is released, which settles on the walls of the combustion chamber and the chimney. All this reduces the size of the structure, which leads to its incorrect operation. For example, a soot thickness in the combustion chamber of 1-2 mm reduces the heat transfer efficiency by 20-25%.
Before each kindling, it is necessary to clean the grate and the chamber where ash remains after burning wood. If this is not done, then the flow of air into the firebox will be insufficient, which will lead to inefficient combustion of the fuel.

Of course, if these three operations are not carried out, the oven will still work. But work efficiency decreases, the time for kindling increases, more firewood is wasted, and, accordingly, your money.

Firewood harvesting

Quality of fuel used

Now we will answer the question: what kind of wood is best to heat the stove? First of all, they must be dry, so experienced steam lovers know that fuel must be prepared in advance, long before its use. Typically this period is determined by one year, and this is the minimum.

The firewood is placed under a canopy so that neither rain nor snow affects it. They are sawn into logs and split into four parts. This size is considered optimal. Although there are no strict restrictions. The fuel moisture indicator is very important, because wet wood under the influence of fire begins to release wet steam, which condenses on the walls of the stove structure and on the chimney.

This, firstly, threatens that all structures immediately become dirty.
Secondly, the heat removal channels narrow.
Thirdly, this process produces acid, which corrodes everything. So the service life of the furnace is sharply reduced.

I would like to touch on a topic that relates to the question: what kind of firewood is best for heating? Everyone understands perfectly well that such an indicator as wood density plays an important role. The denser it is, the longer it burns and the more thermal energy it releases. Below is a table that compares tree species according to the way they burn in terms of the release of thermal energy, depending on the volume of fuel used.

Once the desired temperature is reached, you will have to use less oak firewood, and most of all aspen. It was already mentioned above that there is an optimal size of firewood that ensures maximum combustion. So, experts in this matter claim that the cross-section of one log should be 80-100 mm.

Dry firewood

Furnace firing process

Before any kindling, it is necessary to clean the grate and the compartment where ash from burnt wood falls. This will ensure normal flow fresh air through the blower into the combustion chamber.
Now you need to properly stack the firewood. We have sorted out what kind of firewood is best to heat a bathhouse, but no less important point, how to stack them correctly so that they all burn to the end, while highlighting maximum amount thermal energy. There are two options: you can lay them in a row or in a cage. It is important here that there is a small distance between the logs, within 8-10 mm. These gaps allow oxygen to penetrate and maintain the combustion process.
Pay attention to the height of the stacked firewood. The structure being constructed must be at least 20 cm below the ceiling of the combustion chamber. This will allow the fuel to burn in the firebox and not transfer the flame to the chimney. The main essence of the process of burning wood is burning it in a firebox, from which heat spreads throughout all structures.
At the very bottom of the structure being laid, it is necessary to place paper or dry small wood chips. With their help it will be easier to ignite. You cannot use kerosene, gasoline, diesel fuel, etc. Please note that the flames of the fire should spread from all sides of the fire.
If the stove has not been used for a long time, it will smoke heavily when igniting wood. Therefore, the advice is to first light a small fire in a firebox using small branches, paper and wood chips. It is necessary to warm up the chimney. After which you can gradually add logs of larger cross-section to this fire.
Try to place the filling directly in the center of the firebox, but not closer to the back wall. Possibly closer to the stove door.

Wood stove design

The design of a wood-burning stove has several devices that can be used to regulate the fuel combustion process and ensure correct and uniform ignition. There are only four of them: two doors from the blower and from the firebox, a valve on the chimney and a view on the boundaries of the combustion chamber and the chimney. The first two regulate the supply of fresh air, the last two regulate the draft. So, in order to properly light the stove, you need to close the ash door and open the firebox door. In this case, all the dampers (view and slide) open. As soon as the wood burns well, you need to close the firebox door and open the ash chamber.

By adjusting the furnace draft, you can create the maximum the right conditions, at which the fuel will burn efficiently. How to determine that wood is burning correctly (this again comes to the question of how to properly heat a Russian stove with wood)?

If the color of the flame is white, and also noise is heard in the outlet channels, it is necessary to close the ash door. Because this is an indicator of strong cravings.
If the flame has acquired a red tint and black smoke is pouring out of the chimney, this means that the draft is too low. We'll have to open the vent slightly.
Optimal combustion is a yellow flame.

Wood stove in the house

There are several significant nuances that affect the quality of a wood stove.

Do not touch the wood until it is half burned. After that you can stir them up.
It is best to collect burnt coals in the center of the firebox floor, surrounding them with burning wood and coals. In this case, it is best to close the blower door or valve.
If the fuel in the firebox goes out, this indicates that carbon monoxide has formed inside. Why? Because the firewood was not dry. And here many people have a question about what to do and how to light the stove raw firewood? It's better if you don't use them at all. But if this happens, then close the combustion chamber door and fully open the view and valve. Keep the oven in this position for 10-15 minutes. During this time, carbon monoxide should completely disappear. Now open the door and flaps slightly.
Never turn on the stove at night. God saves man, who save himself.

Wood burning stove made of bricks

In Rus', people heated their houses with a stove. Over many generations, the technology was perfected. Even in modern world Residents of private houses and summer cottages do not refuse to heat their premises with firewood. Often people use a stove the old fashioned way to heat a sauna. Regardless of the purpose, it is necessary to carry out ignition taking into account all the features. To do this, let’s look at the main nuances that will help you light a potbelly stove with wood.

Regular wood stove maintenance

It is important to monitor the condition of the furnace, this directly affects heat losses fireboxes A common reason is that sometimes a small gap forms between the combustion chamber flap and the brick arch of the wall, in this case the coefficient useful action decreases by 12%.
In such situations, the stove draws in a slight flow of cold air, which contributes to the evaporation of thermal energy through the chimney. If the combustion chamber is not equipped with a door, the efficiency of the fired stove drops by 40-45%. As a result, it increases consumables, namely firewood. In order for the efficiency factor (COP) of a brick kiln to remain maximum, annual maintenance must be carried out.
Inspect the heating device. If you find obvious cracks and gaps, fix them as efficiently as possible. The destruction of stone materials occurs due to differences in air humidity and temperature changes. Try to pay attention to the technical part in warm weather.
It is worth remembering that you need to clean the chimney 2-3 times a year. The main cause of pollution chimney The soot released from burnt wood is used. The substance settles in a dense layer on the walls of the device. The result is the same - the oven does not work properly. The chamber shrinks due to carbon deposits, and heat transfer efficiency drops by 25%. Before each heating of the oven, do not forget to thoroughly clean the grate and chamber from ash and carbon deposits.
If you do not clean, required amount no air will enter the firebox. As a result, the wood will not burn properly. If you don't care about the fate of your stove, you don't have to worry about maintaining it. The firebox will work in any case, but the efficiency will drop significantly. You will spend more time lighting firewood.

What kind of firewood is best to use?

Obviously, the main condition is the dryness of the logs. The best factor for quality raw materials is their premature procurement. Firewood used for combustion is split in advance before the process itself (from 1 year or more).
The main condition for storing finished raw materials is an equipped dry place. The room must be protected from weather conditions. The ideal size of firewood is considered to be logs split into four equal parts.
Each specimen is approximately 11 cm in diameter and 40 cm long. You can also rely on personal preference. Don't forget about humidity, this indicator is important. Your health directly depends on unseasoned firewood.
Condensation begins to release from the wood, which contaminates all the component stoves. Heat transfer deteriorates due to the formation of moisture on the walls of the device. It is also worth considering that raw firewood contains an enzyme that, when evaporated, is converted into acid. She begins to corrode everything.
It is best to use firewood with a higher density per 1 m³. The combustion duration of the raw material and its heat transfer directly depend on these indicators. For example, birch has a density index (1.0), and oak (0.75). Consequently, less of the latter type of wood will be needed to fire the stove.

Test firing of the stove after construction

To check the quality of a newly built stove, a test ignition should be carried out in the presence of a specialist. Thus, after the first warm-up of the device, it will be able to identify obvious shortcomings. The procedure must be carried out after the masonry has completely dried. Next, the furnace is fired for 3-4 days with a normal amount of firewood.
If the stove is built in good faith, you will not see smoke in the room. After warming up, inspect and feel the entire accessible surface. A good stove gives off heat evenly; there should not be too hot places or, conversely, too cool. It is also worth paying attention to the fact that new construction cools down slowly. It should not quickly waste the acquired heat.
The stove maker, in turn, must carefully inspect appearance the buildings. Assess the quality of the brick binding, the thickness of the seams and the evenness of the walls. The deviation of the vertical masonry should not exceed 2 mm. at 1 m height. The specialist must also inspect the quality of the internal dressing, the strength of the shutters and the correct construction of the firebox arch.
After the furnace has completely warmed up and cooled down inside the firebox, the size and nature of the cracks are assessed. An external examination may not reveal this. To test the density of masonry and valves to the fullest, you need to burn any dense material soaked in diesel fuel.
This move will contribute to the release of a large amount of thick black smoke, which will be used to test the stove. At the same time, there should be no hint of smell in the room, especially kumar. If problems are identified, seal all cracks as effectively as possible, and then rub them. If you look after your stove properly and carry out annual maintenance, it will last for decades.

Before starting heating, clean the ash compartment and the grate from any burning residue. This move will allow air to circulate better, as a result of which the wood will burn much better. It is important that oxygen enters the combustion chamber evenly.
After preparation, you can begin laying firewood; the procedure is carried out in compliance with certain features. The main difficulty is correct location logs After ignition, all firewood should burn out completely so that you do not overpay for fuel.
At correct installation the logs will burn well, providing the necessary release of thermal energy. This feature, in turn, will allow you to heat the entire room in 1-2 hours. There are several methods of laying - cellular and row.
To maintain the combustion process, you need to maintain an interval of about 1 cm between logs. In this simple way, you will allow air to circulate around the firewood, so they will burn evenly. Pay attention to the height of the formed stack of logs. It is necessary to maintain a distance of about 20 cm from the ceiling of the chamber.
By following this recommendation, you will ensure good combustion, the flame will not move into the chimney. When lighting a stove, the main thing is to ensure the smoldering of the logs in the firebox. From this compartment thermal energy will be distributed throughout the structure, providing the desired result.
After placing the firewood in a cage or nearby, pay attention to the bottom of the stack. Place dry wood chips or old newspaper on the floor between the logs, placing the raw materials strictly in the center under the stack. Later you will light the wood using auxiliary elements.
Never use flammable materials such as diesel fuel, gasoline or kerosene. A properly lit stove spreads flames in the firebox, which spread evenly from all sides of the fire. Make the stack in such a way that the firewood is located in the center or closer to the door. There is no need to send logs to the far wall.

Adjusting the operation of the stove after ignition

Like any other design, wood stove has a “control panel”. Control levers help control operation heating system, and also ensure uniform heating and maintenance of ignition.
The design includes the door of the combustion chamber and the blower (2 doors in total), a chimney valve, a firebox and chimney view (single design).
The ash flaps and chambers are designed to regulate the supply of oxygen and its circulation inside the firebox. You can control the draft with a view and a latch.
To properly ignite the stove, open the combustion chamber door, view and valve. But close the ash door. When the logs are hot and begin to burn fully, close the firebox door and open the ash chamber.
If you control the draft, the wood will start to burn correctly. In the end, you won't waste your time and money in vain. To determine whether fuel is burning properly, it is important to consider flame characteristics.
The white color and the presence of unpleasant noise in the exhaust structure indicate a strong draft of the furnace. It needs to be adjusted by slightly closing the blower flap.
A red tint indicates intense combustion. You may go outside and find a plume of dark smoke pouring from your chimney. This outcome indicates that the traction is insufficient. Open the ashpit slightly.
You can assume that the stove is lit correctly if you see a yellow-orange flame. In this case, there is no need to close or open anything; heat the room to the required temperature.
Many people are faced with the problem that the flame has no color at all because it has gone out. This feature indicates a large cluster carbon monoxide in the firebox. It appears due to the use of unseasoned firewood.
You cannot heat a potbelly stove with damp logs. However, if this has already happened, open the valve and view, but completely clog the firebox flap. Wait a quarter of an hour for the carbon monoxide to dissipate. Slightly open the dampers and combustion chamber door.

Monitor the condition of the logs. If you notice burnt embers, scoop them up with a poker and move them to the center of the pile. Place still burning firewood around, close the ashpit or valve a little.
Light the stove only during daylight hours. Never heat a potbelly stove at night. A large amount of carbon dioxide released often leads to disastrous consequences.
It is necessary to constantly monitor the heating device. There is no need to move the firewood until it has melted at least 50%.

If you haven't used a stove long time, during the ignition process it will begin to smoke heavily. To eliminate this unpleasant feature, first light a small portion of dry wood chips, paper or knots in the firebox. In this simple way you will warm up the chimney. Next, gradually add firewood with a diameter of about 12 cm to the existing fire.

Video: how to properly light a stove

Correct heating heating device(a wood or coal stove of any type) affects not only the temperature in the house and the consumption of firewood, but also the service life of the stove. Overheating, that is, burning too much wood, leads to the destruction of the brick stove masonry and increases the likelihood of a fire in the room where the metal stove is installed. A weak air supply causes soot to be deposited on the walls of the heating device, chimney and chimney, which often leads to a fire. After all, when the oven door is opened, enough oxygen is supplied to the hot soot to ignite it. As a result, the masonry of the walls weakens, the stove and chimney are destroyed, and there is also a high probability of a fire. Excess air causes the internal surfaces of the furnace to cool and become rough, which reduces efficiency.

How firewood or coal turns into heat

The temperature in a firebox loaded with wood or coal reaches 900–1200 degrees, but the surface temperature of a well-heated stove is 50–70 degrees. The coarse temperature used for increasing efficiency heating device is 45–60 degrees. In this case, the temperature of the smoke coming out of the hole chimney 150–250 degrees. How does the high-temperature flame in the firebox turn into heat radiated from the walls of the furnace?

During combustion, carbon from coal or wood is oxidized, releasing large amounts of heat and open fire. This reaction occurs not only in the lower, but also in the upper part of the firebox, because tongues of fire appear due to the oxidation of carbon gas. Depending on the design of the stove, the temperature at the outlet of the firebox can be 600–800 degrees (stoves with a rough or channel chimney) or 200–300 degrees in bell-type stoves.

This is due to the fact that in bell-type stoves the firebox is part of the bell, which absorbs heat from hot flue gases and, warming up, radiates heat from the outer walls. In channel stoves, the same function is performed by chimneys (channels), which are heated by hot smoke and store heat, which is gradually radiated into the room through the outer walls. What determines the efficiency of heat removal and the amount of stored thermal energy? The efficiency of heat extraction from flue gases depends on:

speed of gas movement through the chimney;
their temperatures;
state interior walls stoves and chimneys;
wood humidity;
influx of free air.

The faster the smoke moves through the hood or channels, the more efficiently and evenly it heats the stone or brick. At a low speed of smoke movement, the internal surfaces located next to the firebox become very hot, however, the further away from the firebox, the weaker the heating. That is why, if the firebox is not properly fired (smoldering with a small air flow), one part of the stove overheats while the other part is insufficiently heated. This mode is acceptable only for heated stoves with coarse wood, because it allows you to maintain the temperature all night, but even in this case, a strong temperature difference cannot be avoided different parts heating device and are rough.

Frequent combustion in a mode of oxygen deficiency (smoldering) leads to the formation of a large amount of soot, which settles on the walls of the hood and channels. In addition to the risk of fire, it also reduces the heating rate of the furnace body or coarse, which is why the efficiency decreases heating device and the consumption of wood or coal increases. The condition of the firewood is no less important. Damp firewood can produce intense heat with a sufficient supply of fresh air, but in addition to this heat, there will be a lot of water vapor and free air in the smoke, which will lead to a decrease in the temperature of the gases moving through the hood or channels. The same problem occurs when loading wood or coal for too long.

The only way to reduce the impact of this problem is to build a heating device with a gas view, which is sometimes called a dry joint. The gas view separates the smoke into hot and cold streams. The hot flow goes into the hood or channels, giving off heat to them, and the cold flow immediately enters the chimney and goes out. Most often, dry seam is used in Kuznetsov furnaces and other bell-type furnaces. heating devices, but they are also suitable for channel stoves if a direct channel for cold smoke is provided.

What kind of firewood is best for burning?

If you have the opportunity to choose, these types of wood are best suited for heating:

birch;
alder;
acacia.

After the tree has been cut down, sawn into logs and split into logs, the firewood must be dried to a moisture content of 10–13%. To do this, the finished firewood must be kept in a dry, ventilated garage for one to two years. During this time, excess moisture will come out and the logs will acquire the desired humidity. If you dry wood in logs or logs, the drying process will take 3–5 years. Therefore, dry firewood of lower calorific value will produce more heat than wet firewood of higher calorific value.

How to prepare a stove for the heating season

Preparing for heating season It begins with cleaning the chimney, hose, grub and the stove itself. During cleaning, soot deposits are removed from the walls and bottom of the channels, which impede the movement of flue gases and create a fire hazard. After this, the condition of all metal parts, such as doors, grates, bags and blowers. If any of these parts are faulty, they are replaced. Then check the condition of the outer surfaces of the oven and rough it. The cracks are expanded and sealed with clay-based masonry mortar. After making sure that everything is in order, they check the draft by bringing a burning match to the open door and ash pan.

When the hood is open, the flame should noticeably deviate into the oven. If there is no draft or it is weak (the fire almost does not deviate), then check the integrity of the hob and the chimney; most likely, there are ruptures or cracks somewhere in them. It is also possible for individual bricks to fall out. If you can’t restore traction on your own, you need to invite an experienced technician.

How to load the stove with fuel

Most properly designed and built stoves are designed for a single load of fuel. If the furnace power is less than necessary for normal heating of all heat-emitting surfaces, then you have to add fuel 1-2 times. Therefore, the power of the stove, as well as the size of the firebox, directly influence the method of loading fuel. The larger the firebox, the larger the firewood you can use. At the same time, it is necessary to remember - optimal sizes the log is 6x6 cm (width and thickness), and the length should be slightly shorter than the length of the firebox.

Much smaller logs will produce more heat, but will burn in less time, which is why the stove body will not have time to absorb required quantity energy. A significant increase in the size of the logs will lead to a decrease in the intensity of the fire and the emission of flue gases, but they will burn noticeably longer.

Therefore, the finished firewood is stacked in one direction as close to each other as possible, filling the firebox to the top edge of the door. Kindling can be laid both from below (in this case you will need to make a chamber from logs) and from above. The first method is suitable for firewood of any moisture content, the second only for dry wood. Paper, bark and wood are used for kindling. A small layer of finely planed (no thicker than one mm) chips of bark and wood is poured onto dry paper.

Instead of paper, dry fuel works well - it will not ignite from an accidental spark and provides enough heat to ignite large wood chips. Moreover, these chips are not laid close to each other, but so that air moves freely between them. A layer of chips 3–5 mm thick is placed above them. The next layer is laid from chips 10–15 mm thick. If the firewood is dry, then three layers are enough; to ignite wet firewood, you need a fourth layer of wood strips 30–40 mm thick.

You cannot use any light petroleum products (gasoline, kerosene, etc.) to ignite the stove, however, you can use paraffin-based liquids. In this case, only the lower two layers of kindling are poured with liquid, and no more than one cm 3 per stove. Used machine oil can be used in the same way.

If one stack of firewood is not enough, then after it burns down to coals, you need to quickly open the door and throw in a few logs, and then immediately close the door. It is undesirable to keep the door open for more than fifteen seconds, because this will lead to a decrease in the temperature in the firebox and a change in the combustion mode of the wood. Therefore, for the second stack it is better to use thick logs or whole logs, the size of which does not exceed 10x10 cm. Thicker firewood can only be used in high-power stoves that heat an area of more than 150 m2.

If the draft is weak or the house has cooled down greatly, then first only three layers of kindling are loaded into the firebox. After the kindling has flared up and warmed up the chimneys and chimney, a fourth layer of kindling is loaded into the firebox, and after 5 minutes, firewood is placed on the burning kindling, being careful not to knock out the fire. Moreover, the firewood is laid in batches of 4–6 pieces, after which the door is closed and the next batch is added after 5 minutes. This method of loading the stove ensures maximum efficiency when the draft is weak and the house is cold. With normal draft and regular heating, the stove is lit only after it is fully loaded with wood.

In coal stoves, coal is first poured into the shaft, then kindling is placed on top, over which 5–7 medium-sized logs are stacked. You can also first load firewood with top kindling into the shaft, and after it burns down to golden coals, fill the shaft with coal in 3-5 steps (at intervals of 3-5 minutes).

How to light and set up a stove

Before igniting the stove, all vents and blowers are fully opened, and the draft is checked. Some heating appliances have a door to warm up the chimney. In such stoves, this door is opened and ignited paper is inserted, which warms up the air in the chimney and increases the draft in the firebox. After the paper burns out, close the door and immediately ignite the kindling. In stoves without such a door, the ignition method depends on the moisture content of the wood. If the wood is dry, then they are placed in the stove, after which the kindling is ignited; if the wood is damp, then the kindling is first lit, then the wood is added as described above.

After the firewood has flared up, in 2-3 steps they turn off the summer mode of operation of the stove, through which the flue gases pass directly into the chimney. It is impossible to close this door at one time, because the draft of the chimney may not be enough to immediately ensure the normal movement of smoke through the cold channels, which is why carbon monoxide will begin to escape through the slightest cracks and fill the air in the room. Bell furnaces are deprived of this drawback, because their design does not provide for summer mode work.

After the summer blizzard closes, the stove gradually returns to operating mode and warms up its body and surface. From time to time it is necessary to listen to the sound of the stove; if it starts to hum, it means that the draft is too strong (this happens during severe frost and wind), so the vent is covered by a third. If the humming does not stop, then cover the vent by another third, and also cover the blizzard by 1–3 cm.

In Russian stoves, after the summer blizzard closes, the draft is regulated based on both the sound and the color of the flame - blue fire indicates too strong draft and excess oxygen, and red fire indicates insufficient draft. With normal draft, the fire will be yellow with small red splashes. Due to the absence of a blower in the Russian stove, the draft is regulated only with a bag. In metal ovens with glass doors, they are guided by the color of the flame (should be yellow with subtle red splashes) and operate with normal sound without loud humming.

Optimal firing time

Optimal time The firebox depends on the design of the stove and the roughness. For metal heating devices, which are a modern analogue of a potbelly stove, the firing time can be any, because they cannot store heat and have extremely low efficiency. The heating time of metal stoves with a brick stove connected to them depends on the power of the heating device. If the furnace power is sufficient to heat the coarse grains, then the heating time is 1–2 hours. Optimal heating time for wood burning stoves brick kilns, regardless of their design, is 1–1.5 hours, coal 2–2.5 hours. This is caused by the properties of the brick and mortar.

Despite the fact that the coefficient of thermal expansion of these materials is very close, when overheated they expand and increase by linear dimensions unevenly, which is why the masonry mortar ruptures and cracks appear in the masonry. Each gap is an influx of additional air, which cools the flue gases and reduces the efficiency of the heating device. Therefore, it is extremely undesirable to overheat the stove; it is better to heat it 2 times a day. If, even with this heating mode, the house is cold, then it is necessary to either insulate the house or make a more powerful or efficient stove capable of generating more thermal energy.

Completion of the firebox

IN wood stoves The ash pit needs to be closed after all the wood has turned into coals and low (2–5 cm) flames are flickering above them. Further combustion of these coals will lead to a decrease in the smoke temperature and cooling of all channels and internal surfaces. It is necessary to measure how long it takes for the firewood to burn down to the state of coals and then complete the fire according to time. This will protect the heating device and heater from exposure to cold air and increase their efficiency. In coal furnaces, during the combustion process, it is necessary to stir the fuel 1–3 times (depending on the size and quality of the coal) with a poker so that the slag falls into the ash pan and air passes through the coal more easily. When the height of the flames is reduced to two or three cm, the firebox should be stopped and the vent should be completely closed.

In Russian stoves, the coals remaining after the fire are either raked into a pocket intended for them, from where the flue gases go directly into the chimney, or they are pulled out and thrown into a bucket of water or taken outside, after which the firebox is closed with a special door to protect it from the penetration of cold air.

Closing the damper depends on the type of fuel - when burning wood, it is closed, leaving a gap of 1 cm, and after 15 minutes it is closed completely (in Russian stoves it is closed completely immediately after removing the coals). When burning coal, close it, leaving a gap of 2 cm, and after half an hour, cover it almost completely. Preferably in a bluff bolt coal furnace drill a hole with a diameter of 10 mm, so that half an hour after the end of the fire, when the coal has cooled and the emission of flue gases has sharply decreased, it was possible to close the damper completely.

Before the next filling of fuel, it is necessary to empty the firebox of ash and remaining coals, then clean the ash pan. It is advisable to do this with the dampers fully open, because the temperature inside the firebox remains at 40–60 degrees, which is enough to warm up the chimney.

How not to light the stove

In many villages, this heating method is popular, in which firewood or coal slowly smolder, due to which flue gases constantly move through the wood. In this mode, the efficiency of the heating device is very low, because the fuel burns with a strong lack of oxygen, which means that little heat is released and a lot of carbon is released in the form of soot, which settles on the internal walls smoke channels. Improper placement of firewood or coal can cause soot to ignite in the ducts, which often results in a fire that completely destroys the house.

Most owners country houses give preference stove heating. This is not only the most reliable, but also inexpensive type space heating. And if the stove is decorated with tiles, this is also stylish element interior Each stove, regardless of design, is unique, since the soul of a master stove maker went into its creation. As a rule, in modern houses build combined structures. They are intended not only for heating the house, but also for cooking. For this there is a special hob or cooking chamber. But it still needs to be heated correctly.

Preparatory work before lighting the stove

If the stove is new, the first test fire should be carried out only after the solution has completely dried. It is done to check the quality of the masonry and identify shortcomings. The first stage is an external inspection, while paying attention to:

seam thickness;
correct ligation of bricks;
verticality of corners;
precision fitting of tiles.

Unevenness of the masonry is allowed within 5 mm - for stoves without cladding, and no more than 2 mm - for tiled structures. Vertical deviation - no more than 2 mm per 1 m height.

After an external inspection, it is necessary to check the density of the masonry. This is best done using a material that emits when burned large quantities smoke. Rags soaked in diesel fuel or waste will do. Burn them in the channel with the valve closed, making sure that no smoke escapes anywhere. If it does appear, then these places need to be sealed and rubbed.

The test fire should be carried out for 2–3 days in a row with a normal amount of fuel. The degree and uniformity of heating is determined by touching different places on the masonry surface. The oven should not only heat up equally everywhere, but also cool down. It is important to check the surface for cracks on the arch of the firebox, in the places where the doors are fastened, and eliminate them in a timely manner.

If it so happens that the stove has not been used for a long time, then before the first fire you should check the condition of the chimney and draft. To do this, light the paper or match and insert it into the oven through the viewer door. If there is draft, the flame will tend towards the chimney. If it is insufficient, the chimneys must be cleaned of soot. It is recommended to carry out this procedure 1-2 times a season. This will reduce fuel consumption and reduce combustion time.

Principles of firing a brick and iron stove

Many people think that heating a stove is not such a difficult task. Heaped up some wood, set it on fire and waited until the house became warm. In fact, in order to heat the stove correctly, you need to know some features. Otherwise, you can burn a lot of wood, and the house will be cold.

Before putting firewood into the firebox, it is necessary to clean the ash chamber and grate from the remnants of previously burnt fuel. This will ensure a direct flow of air through the blower to the flame. To light the stove, it is recommended to use only dry wood. Wet or damp logs cannot be used, as this will lead to smoke and large deposits of soot in the chimney.

Clean the stove better in summer. This will allow you to flood it quickly and without problems in winter, even in severe frost.

If you add coal, you need to select medium size. Small and too large fractions are not suitable for home ovens.

Place logs in the firebox. This can be done in two ways:

hut (under a cone) if the firebox is large;
parallel (with gaps of 8–10 cm).

Firewood should make up approximately two-thirds of the volume of the combustion chamber. There should be a free space of 15–20 cm to the top. It is better to place firewood directly in the center of the firebox or closer to the stove door, but not closer to the back wall.

Move the view to the required level. Open the ash door slightly. Using matches or thin wood chips, we set fire to a piece of birch bark or paper placed in front of the firewood.

Used oil can also be used for ignition.

As soon as the flame begins to engulf the wood, close the doors of both the firebox and the vent. When they begin to burn evenly, lightly cover the view.

We control the fire using a view and a blower, which provide air access to the fire. Keep the combustion chamber door closed. We open it only if we need to stir the coals with a poker or add firewood.

If the stove is constantly fired with coal, when loading it, you must first burn small portion firewood and after that cover the coal with a layer of 5–6 cm. After it flares up, add fuel up to 15 cm, then the stove will burn well and warm up evenly.

How to determine if wood is burning correctly:

If the flame white and noise is heard in the outlet channels, it is necessary to close the blower door. This is an indicator of strong traction.
If the flame has acquired a red tint and black smoke is coming out of the chimney, the draft is too low. We open the vent.
Flame yellow color means optimal combustion.

For greater efficiency, do not stir the wood until it is half burned. Only after this can they be moved with a poker. Collect burnt coals in the center of the firebox, surrounding them with burning wood and coals. In this case, it is best to close the blower door or view.

Each time you add firewood to the firebox, you can add a handful of regular kitchen salt. It is believed that during combustion, salt prevents the formation of soot. This is best done if the chimney has been recently cleaned.

If the flame in the firebox goes out, this means that carbon monoxide has formed inside. Most likely, the firewood was wet or damp during storage. Of course, it's best not to use them. But if there are no other options, then close the firebox door and completely open the view and valve. Light the fire again and wait 10-15 minutes. During this time, carbon monoxide will disappear. Now open the door and dampers a little, and you can continue heating.

It will take 1.5–2 hours to heat the stove well. In this case, the surface heats up to 70–80°C, less often - up to 90°C. With more high temperature dust burns on the stove and appears bad smell. Due to overheating, cracks may form in the masonry and the device will quickly fail.

After the firewood and coal have completely burned out, the view is closed. This is necessary to maintain heat in the house until the next fire.

The process must be completed by following certain rules:

When the wood burns out, gradually close the vent and the valve.
After only coals remain in the firebox, you need to collect them in a heap on the grate and cover the ash pan with the view about 2/3 or 3/4.
Only after the blue lights have completely disappeared (the process of carbon monoxide combustion), the coals can be scattered throughout the firebox and the view and door can be tightly closed.
If for some reason it is necessary to stop the combustion process of the stove if there are unburned firebrands, you need to remove them and extinguish them yourself. It makes no sense to fill them with water. This can lead to smoke and unnecessary dampness in the combustion chamber.

In summer, the stove is heated mainly to get rid of moisture. It is enough to heat it 1-2 times a week. In damp and rainy weather you can do this more often.

In winter, it is better to heat the stove twice a day. Then the house will not cool down. The exception is the Russian stove. It can be heated only once a day, since heat transfer occurs much later.

Video: how to properly light a bell-type stove in winter (detailed instructions)

What fuel is suitable for a home stove?

In order to heat the stove, you can use firewood, coal, and peat. Modern manufacturers also offer new types of fuel - Eurowood, Various types pressed briquettes.

Firewood

Birch has always been considered the best in this regard. Such logs do not shoot, do not spark, burn completely, and have high heat transfer. But if you overdo it and build too much fire, a fire may occur.
Birch firewood is the best for a home stove.
Oak wood burns for a long time and produces a lot of heat. Heat transfer is higher than that of birch trees by about 20%. But they are very expensive. With constant use, the brick quickly burns out and the walls become thinner.
Pine and spruce firewood are inferior in heat transfer to birch and oak. Due to the presence of resin, they crack and shoot a lot. Not only sparks, but also hot coals can fly onto the floor. That's why wooden floor must be covered with a sheet of metal, floor tiles or other non-combustible materials. Pine and spruce firewood produces a lot of ash and burns out for a long time. If you close the chimney opening before all the coals go out, you may get burned.
Aspen firewood burns slowly. Heat transfer is 50% lower than that of birch. But aspen helps clean the chimney of soot and soot, so it is recommended to place them in a small amount in a hot stove at the end of the firebox.
Aspen firewood is often used not for the purpose of generating heat, but as a means to clean soot from the chimney
Alder firewood flares up quickly, produces virtually no smoke, like aspen, and cleans the chimney of soot. It has long been considered “royal” firewood.

Pine, birch and spruce, although they have good heat transfer, produce a lot of soot when burning. This means that the chimney will have to be cleaned more often.

Table: required amount of fuel depending on the type of firewood

Video: how to properly lay firewood and quickly light the stove in a bathhouse or at the dacha

New type of fuel - Eurowood

Euro firewood is made from sawdust and wood dust, compressing them in special presses under high pressure and at high temperature. Density fuel briquettes 3 times more than wood, which means the heat transfer is higher. They burn with a high, even flame, with virtually no smoke. They burn completely and leave very little ash. The thermal conductivity of Euro-firewood is approximately the same as that of coal, but their cost is much higher.

Video: features of peat combustion in a metal furnace

How to make a briquette from sawdust with your own hands

As an alternative to expensive European firewood - briquettes made by hand. If you have the opportunity to purchase sawdust, then if you have free time and desire, you can make them yourself. Seed husks, finely torn paper, dry leaves, straw, and cardboard will be used. To bind, you can take clay or any wallpaper glue. The manufacturing process consists of several stages.