Upholstery of a wooden house with siding. Step-by-step instructions for covering your house with siding yourself, photos and videos

06.08.2016 0 Comments

Very often there is a decision to improve the exterior of a house that is made of wood. Siding is practiced wooden house with your own hands. This will save money, which many people lack.

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Material selection

A wooden house is a common sight in our cities and towns. Often wooden buildings have a poor appearance, which spoils the mood and appearance of the area. But old walls do not retain heat well and freeze faster during cold periods. Siding treatment solves both problems. Wood is a capricious material. Dealing with it will require skill and patience. Among the variety of materials for cladding, it is most suitable vinyl siding. It is light, relatively strong and beautiful. Eat great choice colors and shades. Wooden buildings very rarely have a strong foundation. This means that it will not withstand heavier facing material. You can save a lot of money on this when building a new house. But the owner has the right to use any other type of siding.

Calculation of the amount of material

It is foolish to begin this important work without counting. An insufficient amount will force you to make additional purchases. It may happen that the tone of the planks you have chosen is out of stock in the supermarket. And then you will have to freeze the process, or finish it with a different shade. Excessive purchasing will result in additional waste. When calculating the quantity, you need to take into account a small reserve in case of defects.

You will need to calculate the exact area of ​​the walls, subtract windows and doorways. Some of the material will be needed for slopes, decoration ventilation ducts. It is important to know that during installation the planks overlap each other. But most packs indicate the material consumption per unit area. If this information is missing, then the quantity can be calculated using a technical drawing.

List of materials and components

It is advisable to purchase everything at once, without delaying the process by going to trading network. Do-it-yourself siding on a wooden house or building will require:

• External corners. Their length is 300 centimeters.
• Internal corners. Their length is similar.
• Starting bar. Its size is 380 cm. For the exact volume, we calculate the perimeter and subtract the size of the doorways.
• Profile "J". It is necessary where extensions approach the walls of the house. Its length is 3.8 m.
• Window trims. Their length is 300 cm.
• Window tides. They are necessary if you have an old window without a tide.
• Profile "N". This is the connecting element. He joins the connecting strips.
• Self-tapping screws. The technology of working with wood requires the use of only galvanized self-tapping screws for fastening with a press washer. Recommended length: 25 - 30 mm. One square takes up to 20 units.
• U-shaped brackets.
• Wind board, soffits. These elements will be useful for arranging cornices.
• Drain strip. Platbands. Wide J-profiles. All this is used extremely rarely; it is required to arrange a base, which can be in line with the wall.

Tools, equipment

It is difficult to do any work with bare hands. Installation and all other work will require:

• A hammer, preferably a rubber one.
• Roulette.
• Brush for cleaning walls from debris.
• Level, string, plumb line.
• Screwdriver.
• Screwdriver.
• Pliers.
• Scissors for iron.
• Grinder or jigsaw for cutting panels.

Siding installation stages

Preparatory stage

Any job begins with cleaning. The wall of the house should not be dirty or dusty. Traces of old cladding should be removed. It is advisable to treat the surface with a powerful antiseptic primer. Rotten areas and areas with mold should be treated with sandpaper and even a plane. Then comes the installation of wind and vapor barriers. The film of waterproof material must be attached directly to the wall of the house. It is wrong to attach it to the sheathing frame. Covering a house with siding requires space for ventilation between the wind-vapor barrier and the cladding material. Proper ventilation will not contribute to the appearance of mold and mildew. It may be necessary to dismantle protruding elements of the building. If you plan to insulate a house, then you should familiarize yourself with the technology: how and with what to insulate a wooden house from the outside.

Frame installation

Metal carcass

There are many options frame structure for this purpose. Siding a wooden house is impossible without a “skeleton”. This operation is not complicated, but there are subtleties and nuances. The main task of the frame is to maintain an ideal plane for the future siding wall. The guide strips will be attached to the frame.

You can choose wood or galvanized profile as the frame material. The advantage should be given to metal: it is difficult to choose wooden planks that have undergone serious drying. Metal resists deformation better, does not burn, does not rot. It is an order of magnitude lighter than wood. And a freshly cut tree will be a source high humidity. Efforts must be made to prevent deformation wooden frame. There are several important steps:

Wooden frame

• Treat the timber with an antiseptic.
• Choose a flat beam.
• The desired fastening pitch is 30 centimeters.

The siding sheathing should have a pitch of 30 to 40 centimeters along the entire perimeter of the building. Installation of the frame begins with the installation of the corner profile. It is important to set these elements extremely accurately and evenly. You will need a plumb line or a building level. For precise installation of the frame, string is pulled along the length of the wall from below and along all existing openings.

Note! During installation horizontal siding, the sheathing is installed vertically. And when installing vertical siding, the sheathing is installed horizontally.

Siding installation steps

It is worth knowing that vinyl sanding is highly susceptible to thermal expansion. When frost sets in, it becomes brittle and less durable. It is best to do this work in the warm season, but not in the heat. Prepared raw materials must be protected from direct rays of the Sun. We must not forget:

• Siding expands when heated. The recommended gap between the ends of the planks is 5 mm. This also applies connecting elements.
• When working in cold weather, the gap should be 1 cm!
• The basic technology requires overlap when connecting planks. The recommended value is 2 mm. If this is not maintained, cracks will appear at sub-zero temperatures.

It is better to start installation by installing the drainage system on the base. This is a dense structure, strengthening it will not be difficult. The situation is more difficult with the installation of the mounting strip - it bends. It is this that will determine the degree of “evenness” of the entire structure. Then the corner profiles are installed. If it's not enough standard length in height, you can add it with a cut piece. The upper profile must be installed overlapping the panel located below. The overlap must be several tens of millimeters.

The installation bar must be several millimeters higher than the lower end of the corner profile. Window openings and doorways are edged with a J-profile. The main panels are installed in the guides. First level attached to the starting bar. There should be a characteristic sound in the form of a click of the lock from below. This means that the bar is in place. The panel is held at the top using self-tapping screws. They should be located in the middle of the oblong holes. The distance between the screws is 45 cm. The panel should have a slight backlash. The design will be completed by a finishing horizontal stripe.

For a more detailed study of covering a wooden house with siding, we recommend watching the following video:

Installation subtleties

There are many useful tips when performing this work. They will help you sheathe it correctly wooden house siding. Here are some:

• Invite an assistant, a helper.
• Do not use short cuttings when installing corner strips. It's ugly and not practical. They are very difficult to decorate. Use them with back side building.
• Be sure to use connectors. The ends must not be overlapped. These places will become deformed under the influence of weather.
• The material reserve should be from 5 to 10%!
• Do not screw in the screws completely. Leave a couple of millimeters. This will prevent the material from deteriorating and cracking. Galvanized surface fastening elements will prevent oxidation.
• Try to use scaffolding. Working on stairs is more difficult and dangerous.
• If the wires supplying electricity to the house are in the way, you will need to call an electrician to move them.
• Even when cladding a new house, it is not recommended to attach the strip directly to the wall.

Additionally

It will be more difficult to cover a log house with siding. You may have to trim some logs. The gaps between the logs can be foamed. Use powerful U-shaped fastenings. Their recommended thickness is 1 mm. A wise decision is to work as a helper for a few days in construction team for cladding for a nominal fee. The experience and skills gained will pay dividends. Then you can easily perform this operation with your own hands, and even earn money.

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For an untrained person, the variety of materials for exterior finishing available on modern market, may cause some confusion.

Such advantages often become decisive factors when choosing siding for cladding a house. The only question remains the installation technology, which should be discussed in more detail.

If you have no experience finishing works, the best solution is siding, which has a number of advantages over other types of finishing:

• There is no need for “wet” work (applying plaster, etc.).
• Restrictions due to weather or temperature conditions is determined by the employee himself based on his own feelings.
• Installing the material does not require any special skills; the ease of installation makes it possible to cover the house yourself.
• The result of the work looks very impressive and lasts a very long time.

This article is a step-by-step installation instruction for dummies.

Siding is a cladding material used for exterior finishing of buildings. It has the shape of elongated narrow stripes with a longitudinal relief applied to them, imitating various options wooden building(most often) or, less commonly, masonry.

The strips (panels, lamellas) are equipped with special sides for fastening to the support on one side and for connecting to each other on the other. The design allows you to assemble canvases of any size from them.

The siding is assembled right on site, which is convenient and practical. The panels are lightweight, so they are easy to lift and carry. In principle, it is possible to work alone, but for large areas with long panels you need an assistant.

The birthplace of siding is Canada, where it was first produced.

The first samples were wooden, today there are different types of material:

• (PVC, acrylic, etc.)

The most common are plastic (PVC) and metal types siding having best characteristics or the ones that most successfully combine quality with price.

In addition, there are many profile options:

• Timberblock.
• etc.

According to installation direction:

• Horizontal.
• siding.

Some types allow installation in both directions at the request of the owner.

Developers are constantly adding the lineup, therefore there cannot be an exhaustive list; the list always remains open.

Siding kit

In addition to panels capable of forming only planes, additional elements (extensions) are produced, which are used to design the joints of different panels at an angle or in the same plane, for finishing window or doorways etc.

To standard types can be attributed:

• Simple and complex angle (external and internal).
• H-profile.
• J-bar.
• Starting bar.
• Finishing bar.
• Platband.
• Soffit.
• Near-window profile.

All additional elements fully correspond to the main panels in terms of material type, color or type of protective coating.

Attention! Sometimes trims of a different, contrasting color are used as decoration, which gives the cladding an elegant and original look.

Choosing lathing - which is better, wood or metal?

The sheathing is a system of planks arranged in a certain order perpendicular to the direction of the panels and serving as support for them. It is customary to use wooden blocks or metal guides for drywall as the material for the sheathing.

Disputes about this have been heard since the very first days of using cladding. Wood planks have low thermal conductivity, while metal ones conduct heat very well and need insulation.

At the same time, wooden parts there is a common disease - they are susceptible to warping, deformation during drying and rotting. The metal profile does not create such problems; it is protected from corrosion by a layer of galvanization.

Another problem with wooden blocks is curvature. Choosing a perfectly straight one from a pack of bars is a difficult task, since the wood is highly susceptible to bending or twisting with a screw. The metal profile is almost perfectly straight.

Thus, more a good option To create the sheathing, a metal profile is presented, but you should take into account the cavity it creates and fill it in parallel with the installation of insulation.

Installation of the selected sheathing

Installation of the sheathing begins with the installation of the outermost strips (if you plan to install vertical siding, then the upper and lower ones). They are attached to the wall at the corners, the position is checked by plumb line. Then a cord (at least two) is stretched between the outer planks, which serves to check the position of the intermediate strips of the sheathing and ensure flatness.

The intermediate strips are installed in increments that allow the insulation boards to be tightly laid between them. To ensure flatness, pieces of wood, plywood, etc. should be placed under them in the right places.(for wooden sheathing) or adjust the height metal profile above the plane of the wall when using a direct (U-shaped) drywall hanger.

After installing the first layer of planks and carrying out intermediate operations, a counter-lattice is installed, which will directly serve as a support for the siding. It is installed perpendicular to the planks of the first layer (and, accordingly, to the siding panels), with a step ensuring optimal fastening sheathing (40-60 cm, in some cases - 30-40 cm).

The countergrid performs additional function providing a ventilation gap between the sheathing and the wall pie, ensuring the removal of steam a.

NOTE!

If you do not plan to install external insulation, then the load-bearing layer of sheathing is installed immediately (perpendicular to the siding panels).

Insulation and waterproofing

During installation of the sheathing, external insulation of the wall can be performed. A material with a vapor permeability higher than that of the wall material is selected as insulation.. This point is very important, otherwise water (condensation) will accumulate at the boundary of the two materials, which will sooner or later cause the destruction of the wall.

Therefore, the most preferable insulation would be slab mineral wool, which allows water vapor to easily pass through. To cut off the ingress of moisture from the outside, a waterproofing layer should be installed. This is done at the stage of completing the installation of the first layer of sheathing and insulation.

A layer of waterproof membrane is installed on top, a material that facilitates the removal of steam, but prevents moisture from entering from the outside. The counter grille is installed on top of the waterproofing layer.

Installation of the starting strip (J profiles)

The starter strip provides support for the bottom row of siding panels. To install it, you need to draw a horizontal line along the perimeter of the house, which is 40 mm above the estimated bottom edge of the panels. Then the starting strip is applied with the upper edge to this line and fixed with self-tapping screws on the sheathing.

CAREFULLY!

The screws should not be tightened tightly; a small gap should be left for the free movement of the strip. The self-tapping screw is screwed in exactly in the middle of the elongated holes so that during temperature changes the part can move and compensate for the change in size without deforming the plane of the skin. This rule applies to all siding elements.

The next strip is not attached closely, but at a distance of 6 mm from the previous one to compensate for temperature stretches.

How is siding attached?

The siding panel is inserted with its lower edge into the lock of the starting strip, snaps into it, and the upper edge is fixed with self-tapping screws on the sheathing. The following panels are attached in a similar way, the sheathing “grows” from the bottom up (or sideways if the vertical type of siding is chosen).

Attention! In some cases, a top-down installation is used. It is believed that this option is less successful due to the possibility of rainwater penetrating into the lining space, but in practice no problems were found.

Installation of internal corner strips

The corners are installed before installing the main panels, immediately after attaching the starting strip. The internal corner profile is attached with the lower edge at the level of the starting strip; the screw density is recommended to be 25-30 cm.

If the starting strip prevents you from positioning the profile in the right place, nail strips should be cut from the corner profile to a length equal to the width of the starting profile plus the temperature gap.

If it is necessary to extend the corner strip, cut off the nail strips from the top by 30 mm and overlap the top one over the bottom one for proper water drainage. The amount of overlap is no more than 25 mm to ensure that the temperature gap is maintained.

Can be issued corner joint using a J-bar, which is cheaper than an angle bar. This can be done using one plank, when it fits tightly with its outer edge to a row of panels on one side, and the panels on the second side are installed into it.

The second option is to use two strips on each side of the corner, in which case there is a danger of water entering the gap between the strips, since absolute tightness of the connection cannot be achieved here, in addition, temperature gaps are necessary in any case.

Installation of external corner strips

External corner strips are installed in a similar way, adjusted for the reverse geometry of the element. The same overlap joining technique is required, temperature gaps are required, etc. As a replacement for a complex corner, you can use two J-bars located close to each other at the corners.

For external corners, a simpler design method is possible - using a simple corner that is installed on top of the panels. In this case, the siding is installed first without a corner, so that the joint of the planes is as neat as possible, after which a simple corner is screwed on top. Often this option turns out to be the most preferable because it is simpler and for untrained people this option seems optimal.

How to extend siding strips

If it is necessary to end the panels, an H-profile or simple overlapping joint can be used. The size of the overlap is 25 cm; to implement it, you need to cut off the nail strip from one panel on top and part of the lock on the bottom to the length of the overlap plus a temperature gap of 12 mm. It is best to do overlapping joints at different intervals - in each row of panels on different places so as not to weaken the entire canvas.

Installation of H-profile

The installation of the H-profile is carried out simultaneously with the installation of the corner strips (immediately after the starting strip). The same rules apply as for corner profiles - trimming nail strips for joints and mandatory temperature gaps. The use of an H-profile makes longitudinal joining of panels more aesthetically pleasing and allows immediate cutting to length required quantity panels for this area.

Installation of ordinary siding panels

It begins immediately after installing the starting strip and corner and H-profiles. Siding can be immediately cut to the required length, not forgetting the need to leave temperature gaps, which for panels are 12 mm.

The starting bar has a lock, the same as the panels. The first lower strip is inserted into it until it is completely connected and secured along the upper nail strip with self-tapping screws.

The usual rules for siding apply - the self-tapping screw is screwed in exactly in the middle of the oblong hole and loosely fixes the part, leaving room for free movement. The next panel is attached in a similar way. The process of creating a plane itself is simple and does not require any special knowledge other than what is indicated.

Every 3 rows, a horizontal check is made and measures are taken to eliminate distortions if they are detected.

Loose connections or other reasons may disrupt the correct position of the panels, causing slight distortions. If you do not carry out constant monitoring, then by the end of installation the changes may become noticeable and the entire work will be ruined. Therefore, periodic monitoring and correction of the accuracy of the location of the lamellas to the horizontal is necessary.

How to go around windows and doorways with siding

They are decorated in almost the same ways, the only difference is the presence of rain tides on the window openings. The method of tying the opening depends on the depth of the block in the plane of the wall.

To design openings located in the same plane as the wall, platbands are used. They have grooves for the end placement of siding, so the installation of platbands is carried out before installing the main panels.

If the openings are up to 20 cm deep, then a J-bar is used. Its installation is carried out on top of finished panels, on window box You need to secure the finishing strip around the perimeter.

For large opening depths, sets of the same siding panels are used, cut taking into account the temperature gap along the length of the slope and assembled according to the usual principle. A universal strip is installed along the perimeter of the window block, and a complex angle is mounted at the outer joint of the planes. In this case, it is also necessary to install additional panels before installing the main panels.

To finish the slopes, it is necessary to first install the sheathing on them, which is usually done during the construction of the main one, since the openings need to be insulated along with the plane of the walls. Regardless of the angle of slope, the sheathing of the openings is installed perpendicular to the main one, and the angle is ensured by the position of the finishing or universal strips.

Laying the finishing strip of siding

The finishing strip forms the top (final) edge of the last panel and fixes its position. installation is carried out almost simultaneously with the top panel. The plank is fixed strictly horizontally at the required height, the nail strip on the last panel is cut off.

The panel, with its trimmed edge, on which the locking profile remains, is inserted into the slot of the finishing strip and snaps into it. The shape of the profiles is such that the required gap is maintained, and the lock reliably fixes the panel in the plane of the canvas.

NOTE!

For correct installation the finishing strip and the last panel require an accurate calculation made in advance, or the possibility of some level discrepancy if a separate pediment cladding is planned.

Installing siding on gables

Either in the same way as the facade, or using a vertical arrangement of siding panels in contrast to the main fabric. Some fairly precise cutting to length and angle will be required.

A design feature is the need to provide a temperature gap in combination with cutting the panels at an angle, which may result in errors, so careful measurements will be required. It is recommended to start installation from the back sides of the house so that you have some experience before moving to the front side.

Useful video

In this video you will learn how to install siding:

Conclusion

Installing siding with your own hands is simple and quite accessible procedure which you can do yourself. The main condition is loose fastening of parts and compliance with temperature gaps; all other subtleties are comprehended intuitively along the way. To successfully complete the work, you should stop rushing and act thoughtfully, then the result will become a source of pride for the owner of the house.

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Some wooden house designs require exterior decoration. Are these old houses that have lost their appearance, or these are houses with new walls made of timber or logs. Whatever the reason, there is a completely acceptable option - siding. Fast, simple, economical. Moreover, this material is affordable, it is made in a fairly large assortment of textures and colors, from various materials, and it’s not at all difficult to sheathe a wooden house yourself. For this it is enough to have necessary tool, “smooth” hands and, most importantly, desire. As for knowledge of how to do this and which is the best siding to choose for cladding a wooden house, this article has prepared some valuable practical tips for you.

Covering a wooden house with siding. Which siding to choose?

The popularity of siding among owners of private wooden houses is quite high. This situation has arisen, first of all, thanks to technical specifications the material itself at the same time at its affordability. Today, manufacturers offer the following on the construction market:

• Vinyl
• Tsokolny
• Aluminum
• Copper
• Steel
• Cement
• Wood

Each type of siding has its own advantages and certain disadvantages, but, in general, literally any option will suit you for cladding a wooden house. Here, rather, everything will depend on what texture and color scheme you will like more, and what budget you have. The most expensive are copper and wood siding. The cheapest is vinyl. It ranks first in terms of demand. Cement siding is used less often. In finishing commercial premises or public buildings, preference is given to copper and steel siding.

To cover a wooden house with your own hands, it is best to use vinyl or wood siding.

How to calculate materials for cladding a wooden house with siding

Before you buy siding and elements load-bearing structure For cladding a wooden house, a thrifty owner will calculate the material. This is important for two reasons:

• To simply buy the required amount of material at a time and not have to drive the car several times for missing components and strips or sheets of siding
• To avoid spending extra money or buying more than you need

How to calculate the amount of siding for cladding a house

Frame elements

It’s a little more complicated when calculating the frame elements. To find out the number of guide profiles, you will need to measure the lengths of all corners of the house (including where the walls meet the doors and window slopes), its perimeter - and multiply all this by two. To the resulting value, add the lengths of the perimeters of windows and doors.

The rack profile is calculated based on the distance between the upper and lower points from the ground to the junction of the wall and the roof. The number of such values ​​must be multiplied by the length of the perimeter of the house, divided by 0.6 meters (installation step of rack profiles). Thus, you will receive the required quantity of profile in linear meters.

Calculation of additional components and components

It is very easy to calculate additional components and parts for both the frame and the siding itself. Considering that the design of the frame made of galvanized profiles for siding is similar to the design of other ventilated facade systems, special U-shaped fasteners are used to attach the profile to the wall. This solution will allow you to move the profile to the distance you need for the insulation from the wall and align the profiles with respect to each other into one even plane. You can find out the number of fasteners by dividing total length rack profiles by 0.7 (distance between fastening elements 0.7 m).

Of course, you will need self-tapping screws. They should be purchased in two types:

• TN25 (or 35) for wood
• LN9 – for attaching siding to a metal frame

The need for TN self-tapping screws is calculated simply - the number of U-shaped fastenings is multiplied by two + a 5 percent reserve. LN self-tapping screws can only be calculated approximately.

Technology for siding a wooden house

First you need to check the availability of the tool. Will need:

• Cordless screwdriver or drill with speed control button
• Level
• Roulette
• Screwdriver
• Pliers
• Hammer

At the first stage, the marking is performed. In increments of 600 mm, starting from the previously marked center of the wall, mark vertical lines. For each of them, mark the places where the U-shaped fasteners will be screwed (we have already said that the recommended pitch between them is 700 mm).

After marking is completed, attach the U-brackets to the wall. After this, we install the rack profiles. There is a certain nuance here - rack profiles must be in one flat plane. To achieve this result, those closest to the corners of the profile are initially mounted. A nylon cord is stretched between them, which serves as a guide for aligning the remaining profiles in one plane. The step between horizontal threads is allowed within one meter - this is quite enough to minimize possible errors.

In this article, we did not consider the technique of assembling a frame from a galvanized profile, believing that this topic requires more detailed study and deserves a separate article.

Frame covering

Upon completion of the installation of the frame, we lay the selected thermal insulation materials, rolled steam and waterproofing and proceed directly to. The first step is to attach the starting rail. It is installed at the bottom of the wall perfectly horizontally. Starting from there, strip by strip, the wall cladding is assembled to the level of the upper horizon.

When assembling, it is important to ensure that the lower lock on the strip fits tightly into the upper groove when connected.

Siding is easy to install, but additional difficulties may arise when finishing window and door openings. requires clarification and step-by-step description installation work. This part of the job is painstaking work.

Many manufacturers (for example, Grand Line) produce all necessary elements for finishing windows with siding. Read more about Grand Line siding. The article discusses the advantages of the material, color palette and the cost of Grand Line siding.

Let us just give one more comment - even when facing a wooden house with siding, a new building is categorically It is not recommended to attach siding directly to the wall, no matter how tempting such a solution may seem to you. This has its negative consequences:

• You will not be able to install additional insulation, this is the first disadvantage
• Over time, wooden walls may become deformed due to shrinkage or for other reasons; the siding, accordingly, will also behave

And the second tip: it’s professionally wrong to do it under siding. wooden sheathing– only frame made of galvanized profile. This is more reliable, plus the same reasons as when installing directly on a wooden wall - timber is simply subject to deformation from changes in temperature and humidity levels.

In conclusion, it remains to add that it is possible that siding your first wall will take a significant amount of time. But, having understood the basics, all further work will not take much time and effort.

Video on how to cover the outside of a wooden house with siding

Covering a wooden house with siding. Installation details.

Technology for siding a wooden house. Subtleties and nuances of each stage of installation.

When buying a house, few people ask the question: “What can be used as facade finishing?”, since today manufacturers of building materials are ready to offer a wide variety of products. However, owners of private houses are guided when choosing not only by the quality, but also by the cost of materials - especially if the house requires finishing of a large surface area façade walls. But what about those whose house was built in the last century - for example, wooden or log? There is a solution: cover the walls with siding. However, here you will have to work very carefully - covering a wooden house with siding has its own characteristics.

Which siding is best for cladding a log house?

There is no clear answer to this question. The main materials for facade finishing are usually vinyl or metal panels, although cladding can also be used natural stone. However, for obvious reasons, inexpensive finishing materials are more in demand today.

Below is a comparative analysis of the two most common types of siding - vinyl and metal:

Material	Vinyl	Metal
Varieties	vinyl panels with imitation of natural and artificial materials	profiled sheet, smooth surface sheet, anti-corrosion panels, polymer coating sheets with a wide variety of shades
Mounting method	vinyl siding is attached with self-tapping screws to a pre-prepared sheathing on the wall of the house	metal siding must be fastened only with galvanized screws to the sheathing
Installation features	the presence of lathing made of wood or metal profiles	it is mandatory to have a frame made of steel only, since the tree may not withstand the load from metal sheets
The need for additional heat, hydro and vapor barrier	insulation, waterproofing and vapor barrier of walls are required	insulation and vapor barrier of walls are necessary
Advantages	lower cost, practicality of the material, the ability to do the cladding yourself	greater strength, galvanized coating, increased frost resistance, resistance to deformation, fire resistance, more long term services
Flaws	excessive flexibility (despite its plasticity and pliability, vinyl breaks more quickly from the wind), poor fire resistance (even for timber profiles treated with an antiseptic composition)	higher cost, more difficult process installation
Cost, rub./m2	from 150 rub./m2 (Russia), from 250 rub./m2 (USA), from 800 rub./m2 (Canada)	from 600 rub./m2

As can be seen from the comparison table, vinyl siding is preferable for budget options- it is easy to process and costs less than metal. However, the service life of vinyl “clothes” is still lower than that of metal ones - this is where the comparison of the strengths of materials lies.

By adding another 20-30% to the cost of the material, you can get an approximate price for the work of cladding a wooden house. And this is not counting all the preparatory work! Hence the conclusion: it’s worth learning how to sheathe a wooden house with siding yourself - it will cost less than ordering the services of specialists.

Sheathing in two stages: preparatory work

It is clear that simply covering external wooden walls with siding will not work - a number of preparatory work must be carried out. This includes leveling the surface, laying an additional thermal insulation layer, and waterproofing walls with a vapor barrier. Let's look at all the works in more detail.

Preparing the wall surface

Siding panels should only be attached to a frame installed on the walls - this is why it is so important to make good surface markings. Wooden (log) houses are no different from brick or panel houses - the surfaces of their walls should also be leveled, preparing for attaching the frame for siding.

Because the log houses more than brick ones are exposed negative impact precipitation, then they need to be protected more carefully: dampness causes the wood to dry out, so it is advisable to treat the log house with an antiseptic more often, which helps keep the walls in good condition and gets rid of harmful insects.

Note: unlike brick or concrete walls, log walls are not covered with cement - as a rule, they are caulked, covering all the cracks, holes, openings and cracks of the log house. As a seal, you can use sealant, or you can use old, proven tow.

Before processing log walls, it is necessary to remove all trim, shutters (if any), drainpipes, then caulk all holes and cracks.

Leveling the surfaces of the walls of a simple wooden house is somewhat easier than leveling the surfaces of log walls - however, this only seems at first glance. In fact, log walls It is enough to caulk the log house and provide good heat and vapor insulation.

Thermal insulation

After sealing the cracks and crevices, you can begin insulating the house. To do this, the following work is carried out:

• The sheathing for the siding is being made. In our case, the sheathing will also serve as a frame for laying insulation: wooden slats(or even better - bars) with a cross section of 40x40 mm are mounted on the prepared wall surface in increments of 250-300 mm.

Important: before installation, the bars should be thoroughly treated with an antiseptic.

• After installing the sheathing on the walls, the resulting cells are laid thermal insulation material- as a rule, this is mineral or glass wool, foam boards or some other insulation. The choice of thermal insulation should depend on the density coefficient of the material - minimum value the density indicator should be from 35 kg/m3, and the higher the house, the higher value density must be indicated on the packaging of the thermal insulation material.
• After laying the insulation, it should be additionally covered with a layer of vapor barrier film - it is designed to prevent the resulting condensation from settling on the surface of the walls and destroying them. A special “breathable” membrane can be used as a vapor barrier layer - through its pores, excess moisture will be removed outside. The film should be attached to the sheathing using a stapler.
• The preparatory work is completed, now you can proceed directly to covering the facade with siding.

Siding a wooden house: sequence of work

• All siding installation work can be divided into several stages: marking under profiles of wall surfaces, around window and door openings, installing sheathing and attaching panels to the frame.
• Marking. Nails should be driven in at a distance of about 50 mm from the foundation of the house, and a nylon cord should be pulled between them (in this case, the parallelism of the extended cord must be carefully controlled relative to the outer walls of the house). According to the level of the tensioned cord, you need to secure the first profiles with a small gap (0.5-0.7 mm).
• Installation of planks. The strips are mounted around door and window openings, special corner strips should be installed at the corners (when joining the strips, the topmost one should overlap the bottom by about 20-25 mm). In this case, a gap of at least 0.5 mm should be left between the solid part of the plank.
• Siding installation. As a rule, it is advisable to install panels after the door and window openings have been lined. In this case, the first siding overlay must be inserted into the fixed starting profile and secured with self-tapping screws. The next panel should be laid with a slight overlap (10-15 mm). In order to more accurately adjust the panels in length and width, they can be cut with a sharp knife or a metal hacksaw specially designed for such purposes.

• In order not to “miss” in purchasing a sufficient number of panels, you first need to make some calculations. For example, you can calculate total area walls, then divide the resulting value by the area of ​​one panel - this way we will get the number of planks that will be needed for the cladding.
• Since calculations are carried out only for walls, the total area of ​​window and door openings should be subtracted from the area of ​​the walls, and then the value of the “stock” of cladding should be added to the resulting value - experts recommend an increase of 7%.

• In addition to the required number of panels, you will also have to calculate the number of profiles (initial strips). Typically, this value is obtained by dividing the total area of ​​the house by the length of one plank.
• Don’t forget about the finishing of window and door openings - you can determine the required number of door and window trims in the same way as for a house: first, the perimeter of each window is determined, then the resulting value is divided by the length of one strip.
• After covering the walls with siding, it is necessary to “process” the joints and corners - for this you can purchase various decorative corners and additional elements. They will not only hide the shortcomings or defects of the sheathed house, but will also give an attractive appearance to the facade architecture.

Sheathing a wooden house or a log house is not difficult if you comply with all the requirements for production process. The main goal is not just the design of the finishing, but the strengthening of the external walls with their accompanying insulation. We hope that after reading this article, you now know how to cover a log house with siding. Try your hand - this work is interesting and pleasant to do yourself.

Siding is famous for its simplicity and low cost of installation. At correct installation panels, it will last for several decades, without fear of sudden changes in temperature, wind, or precipitation.

The duration of finishing work, their cost and quality directly depend on the skills of the installer. If you already have some experience in construction, then covering a house with siding will not seem too difficult a task.

In this article, we will step by step explain how to cover a house with siding with your own hands, and also tell you what materials and tools you will need for this.

Finishing a house with siding: preparatory work

Preparing to cover a house with siding begins with cleaning the exterior walls. First of all, all protruding parts that will interfere with the installation of panels are removed: gutters, brackets, ebbs and shutters on windows, trim on doors - everything that sticks out from the flat surface of the walls.

Private houses made of stone and brick are cleaned of old plaster, covering all the cracks cement mortar or polyurethane foam. Wooden houses are cleaned of dirt and mold, and then covered with a layer of antiseptic.

Finishing a house with siding requires an accurate calculation of the required amount of materials. Therefore, it is necessary to measure the width and height of the walls in advance, then subtract the total area of ​​windows and doors from their total area. You also need to calculate the perimeter of the house and all window and door openings, so the total length of the connecting structures will become clear.

Formula for calculating materials: (area of ​​all walls of the house − area of ​​windows and doors) ÷ area of ​​one panel × 1.10

Only taken into account effective area siding panel, that is, without the upper fixing part. 1.10 in the formula is a 10% supply of material, which is usually lost to waste during inaccurate cutting and final fitting.

It is most convenient to use a schematic plan of the house - you can calculate it piece by piece. required amount panels, and you will immediately see where the full length panels will go and where trimming will be required. Any siding manufacturer will help you with calculations for free. This can be done in advance in the online services “Alta-calculator” and “Alta-planner”.

Tools and materials

To quickly and easily install siding with your own hands, you practically don’t need special tool– it’s enough to have what you already have in any private home.

1. Tape measure, square and metal ruler - for measurements.
2. Construction level of at least 120 cm - to check the accuracy of installation of the sheathing vertically and the accuracy of laying siding panels horizontally.
3. Electric drill, screwdriver or screwdriver for fastening.
4. Knife-cutter, electric jigsaw, grinder or hacksaw (with small and sharp teeth) - any of these tools will be needed to cut the panels. It is better not to use a hacksaw when installing siding in the cold season, because the panels may crack. The grinder should operate only at low speeds: at a high speed of rotation of its disk, the material of the panels at the cut site will melt.
5. A siding hammer, also known as a punch, is needed to create hooks to secure the siding into the finish strip.

The punch is the only tool for installing siding that will have to be purchased specially. Photo No. 1.

Connecting structures. Siding panels are not the only structural element that will be required during installation. They are connected to each other by special strips: starting, connecting, finishing, etc. Separate structures are used for cladding window and door openings, as well as building corners. Application additional structures allow you to cover a house of any design with siding.

Plastic structures used in siding installation. Photo No. 2.

Areas of application of connecting elements. Photo No. 3.

Insulation. Private country house, used only in spring and summer, in most cases does not need additional insulation. The house in which they live all year round, usually insulated mineral wool- it is laid outside the building, in the cells formed between the sheathing floors.

Scheme of sheathing and installation of insulation. Photo No. 4.

The lathing is installed on the entire surface of the facade. First of all, it is mounted along the side surfaces of the building, corners, windows, doorways and other protrusions. The standard distance between floors is 40 cm. But the heavier the panels, the smaller the sheathing step needs to be. More dense sheathing should be used on houses that are located in areas of strong winds and possible hurricanes.

Windows and doors are surrounded by sheathing around the entire perimeter - a reinforced contour is created on which window and door frames. Photo No. 5.

As a sheathing on log houses Usually simple wooden slats are used. Their main disadvantage is the high probability of distortion. Therefore, it is important to choose only dry, straight slats without knots, thoroughly soak them with an antiseptic and install them only in dry weather.

Another option is galvanized profiles. They are more versatile, but can expand when installed in extreme heat. When it gets colder, the siding installed on such profiles becomes deformed.

The main advantage of polymer profiles is the quick and accurate installation of siding panels on them. Photo No. 6.

How to install panels correctly

During all preparatory work, it is better to store siding panels in a covered, dry room, protected from direct sun rays, in a horizontal position on a flat surface, at a temperature from –30 to +50 °C.

Fastening sequence. Siding panels are mounted on previously installed connecting structures: starting, connecting and corner strips. Facing starts from bottom to top from left to right. First, the starting bar is attached. It must be mounted absolutely horizontally: the evenness of laying all subsequent layers depends on this.

The first front panel is inserted into the starting bar and slightly pulled up until it snaps into place. Then the panel is screwed to the sheathing through special mounting holes: the first screw is screwed into the middle of the siding panel to avoid its deformation in the future. When screwing in the screws, the panel should not be pulled up - it should hang freely under its own weight.

After fixing the first siding panel, the next one is installed on it using exactly the same technology. In order to cladding the facade evenly and accurately, it is recommended to assemble the panels simultaneously along the entire perimeter of the house - in a circle, visually monitoring the evenness of the installation and checking the horizontality of every third layer of panels with a building level. This way there will be less waste during installation - you can immediately see where the cut pieces can be used.

The finishing strip is attached after the last layer of siding panels is installed. In the very top panel you need to make hooks - for this you will need a punch. These hooks are then snapped into the finishing strip clamp.

Thermal expansion gap. The main installation rule is that siding and accessories must move freely and not rest against anything. Due to natural temperature changes throughout the year, siding is subject to expansion and contraction. Therefore, when rigidly fixed to the sheathing, it becomes deformed and moves in waves.

This is what errors look like when calculating gaps for thermal expansion. Photo No. 7.

Be sure to leave 5–8 mm free between the siding panel and the side fastener. After installing the panel, it should move freely left and right, but not dangle.

Fastening elements. The most convenient way to fasten the siding to the sheathing is with galvanized self-tapping screws with a sharp tip and a wide head. They are not subject to corrosion and over time will not leave unpleasant rusty stains on the facade.

There should be a distance of 1.5 mm between the screw head and the panel. The easiest way is to tighten the screw completely and then loosen it one turn. Photo No. 8.

The screws are screwed exactly in the middle of the mounting holes so that the panels can move. Photo No. 9.

Extension of panels. Often the building is longer than the siding panel. In such cases, a connecting strip is used. In this case, panels of standard length have to be cut. When calculating their length, it is important to remember the temperature gaps.

Installation of siding panels with a connecting strip (left) and extension of panels with an overlap (right). Photo No. 10.

The second way to lengthen panels is overlapping installation. So that the junction points are not noticeable, the joints of the next layers are made offset. But still, after a few years, due to thermal expansion between panels mounted overlapping, gaps will appear and the joints will become noticeable.

Cladding a house with siding - video

For even more information on how to properly and quickly cover a house with siding with your own hands, see the instructions from the Alta-profile company and on video.