Do-it-yourself dacha floor. Do-it-yourself wooden floor in the country house Lay the floor in the country house by hand

Regardless of whether you live at your dacha all year round or visit only in the warm season, high-quality thermal insulation will not be superfluous. Insulation not only provides comfort from staying in the house, but also protects the structure from dampness, external influence, destruction.

You need to start from the foundation - if the floors in the house are cold, heating will take a lot of time and energy resources. So, let's look at how to insulate the floor in a dacha on your own and with the greatest efficiency.

The choice of insulation is determined by several criteria:

material capabilities of dacha owners;
complexity of installation;
durability;
resistance to moisture and rodents.

The last point is especially important, because if the owners live at the dacha only periodically, dampness and mice are the main reason for the destruction of the floors.

The range of insulation materials is wide, and along with modern ones, many summer residents willingly use already familiar, time-tested materials. If you have a limited budget, you can choose several acceptable options.

Expanded clay– lightweight porous granules retain heat well, mice and insects do not breed in them, and the material does not emit harmful fumes. For effective thermal insulation must be ensured reliable protection from dampness and pour expanded clay in a thick layer - up to 30 cm.

Wood shavings and sawdust- a cheap and environmentally friendly material that can be purchased at any woodworking enterprise. The shavings retain heat perfectly, but are afraid of moisture, so they also need quality protection. In addition, insects and rodents can live in it.

Slag– accessible and practical way insulation on the ground. It also needs waterproofing, but it is durable, non-flammable and mice will not grow in it.

– affordable, retains heat well and muffles sounds, and is not damaged by insects or rodents. The disadvantages include the tendency to shrink and the need to use protective equipment during installation, since thin fibers are very brittle and easily penetrate Airways, irritate the skin.

Styrofoam– easy to install, moisture resistant. It has a long service life, but in the absence of mice, since these rodents are very active in destroying it.

Application modern materials gives incomparably best result: installation is carried out with minimal labor costs, the efficiency of insulation increases significantly, you can forget about repeated repairs for at least 20 years. The only negative is the high price, but the financial investment fully pays off in a few years, thanks to significant savings on heating the home.

Material	Basic properties
	Eps boards are not afraid of moisture, temperature fluctuations, freezing, and thanks to their high density and special structure, they perfectly retain their shape throughout their service life. The insulation is lightweight, and the slabs have convenient system connections, so anyone can handle the installation.
	Available in various modifications, they have increased wear resistance, less hygroscopic, last longer. There are mats and slabs with a foil coating that reflects heat and increases the effectiveness of thermal insulation significantly.
	Sprayed insulation forms a dense and seamless layer of insulation that is resistant to any negative impacts. Thanks to its porous structure, the insulation does not place large loads on the foundation and floors, and is excellent for thermal insulation of floors on the second floor, attic and attic. True, spraying requires a special installation, as well as skills to work with it, so insulating the floor yourself using this method is problematic.
	Cellulose insulation with very low thermal conductivity. Environmentally friendly, has high soundproofing properties. The insulation is blown into underground space using installation, since it is quite difficult to evenly distribute and compact the layer manually.

Prices for Rockwool mineral wool

rockwool mineral wool

As bulk insulation many use expanded vermiculite, a granular material with a scaly structure. It is lighter than expanded clay and retains heat better and serves as excellent sound insulation. Unlike EPPS and mineral wool, vermiculite is completely environmentally friendly, but it is not affected by fungi, putrefactive bacteria, and insects and mice do not live in it. Well, the only disadvantages include the high cost, which is why vermiculite is inferior in popularity cotton insulation and polystyrene.

Thermal insulation methods

There are two ways to insulate floors in a country house - along joists and along a rough foundation. The first option is used for both concrete and wooden surfaces, and any of the above materials can act as insulation. The entire load goes directly to the logs, so the density of the material and its resistance to mechanical stress do not play a role. When choosing this method it is necessary to take into account that the floor will rise by 10-15 cm, depending on the total thickness of the beams, flooring and finishing coating.

Laying insulation on a rough base requires a certain rigidity from the material in order to prevent shrinkage under the influence of mechanical loads. The rough base can be compacted soil, concrete or semi-dry screed, as well as wood flooring. The thermal insulation layer can be laid directly under the coating or filled with a screed with reinforcement, which is a more reliable and durable option.

Insulation by joists

It is possible to carry out insulation along the logs both at the construction stage and during the operation of the dacha. For example, consider thermal insulation with mineral wool in slabs. According to building regulations, to insulate floors above a cold basement, a layer of material 50-100 mm thick is required, above warm rooms this figure can be reduced to 30 mm. IN northern regions The layer thickness should be about 150-200 mm. Depending on this, it is necessary to immediately determine whether the slabs will be laid in one or two layers in order to accurately calculate the amount of material.

Besides mineral slabs you will need a film for hydro- and vapor barrier, as well as standard set tools:

level;
drill;
roulette;
construction stapler;
mounting knife;
jigsaw

For logs, use dry and strong timber with a section of 100x150 mm or boards 100x50 mm.

Step 1. Prepare the base: sweep away dust and debris, inspect the concrete base for damage and unevenness.

Step 2. Line the surface with strips of dense polyethylene film, overlapping the edges by 15 cm. It is advisable to tape the joints with tape to eliminate the slightest risk of moisture penetration. When insulating the floor of the first floor, you can use roofing felt instead of film.

Step 3. The timber is cut to size and treated on all sides with primer with antiseptic properties. To save money, you can use drying oil or waste machine oil. Lay the wood out to dry.

Step 4. Dried logs are laid on top of the waterproofing layer in increments of 58-59 cm. This distance will allow the insulation boards to be tightly laid without cutting on the sides. Each lag is set according to its level; wooden linings are used for adjustment. If large loads on the floor are not expected, the logs do not need to be screwed to the base. Otherwise, they should be secured with anchors.

Step 5. Mineral wool slabs are carefully laid between the beams, carefully straightening them into the corners. The insulation is tightly joined together, and the second layer is laid so as to completely cover the joints of the lower layer by at least 10 cm.

Cutting the insulation is carried out using a sharp knife according to the markings

Step 6. Having laid the thermal insulation, roll it out on top of the mineral wool vapor barrier membrane. It also overlaps by 10-15 cm, the joints are fixed with tape.

Step 7 Now we begin to install the flooring. The slabs are laid with the long side across the joists and screwed with self-tapping screws. The rows of slabs should be arranged with offset joints, while the short sides are joined exclusively along the joists.

After that, all that remains is to lay the finishing coating and enjoy the comfort of your home. If you need to insulate old floors, first carefully dismantle the baseboards and flooring, inspect the base, boards and joists, and discard heavily damaged elements. Anything that can be reused must be dried in the sun and treated protective compounds. Further actions carried out as described above, and finally boards are stuffed over the vapor barrier.

Advice. To avoid having to re-adjust the floor boards, when dismantling it is recommended to number each of them with chalk on the reverse side.

Insulation is carried out in a similar way bulk materials– expanded clay, vermiculite, shavings. When filling in the insulation, the logs should protrude by 20-30 mm so that there is a gap for ventilation between the flooring and the insulating layer.

Insulation on concrete screed

Concrete floors are most often insulated by laying penoplex under the screed. This method is quite simple, although labor-intensive, the result is reliable and durable. In order for the insulation to lay down in an even layer, the concrete base should not have differences in height of more than 5 mm. Also, there should be no cracks through which moisture can penetrate.

To work you will need:

penoplex insulation;
waterproofing film;
damper tape;
reinforcing metal mesh with a cell of 100x100 mm;
profiles for beacons;
building gypsum;
cement and sand;
tools.

Step 1. The surface is primed in 1 or 2 layers, depending on the porosity of the base.

Step 2. After the primer has dried, a damper tape is glued at the junction of the walls and the floor around the entire perimeter of the room.

Step 3. Line the base with overlapping strips of film and secure its edges with tape. The width of the overlap should not be less than 10 cm. The edges of the film along the perimeter are placed on the wall, also to a height of 10-12 cm.

Step 4. Install a thermal insulation layer. To fix the slabs, you can only use glue, but many craftsmen additionally secure the insulation slabs with mushroom dowels, one in the center of each slab. At the joints, the insulation is tightly connected using a tongue-and-groove system. In cold regions, laying penoplex should be carried out in 2 layers, with the obligatory displacement of the upper slabs relative to the lower ones. If suddenly there are gaps between the insulation, they must be blown out with foam so that the solution does not get there when pouring.

Step 5. Mix plaster or cement-sand mortar and install beacons on top. The distance between the beacons is about a meter, each profile is strictly leveled horizontally. If the beacons are not located in the same plane, the screed will be uneven, which will complicate installation in the future flooring.

Step 6. Prepare a solution for the screed in the proportion of 1 part cement to 3 parts sand. The floor is poured in parts, starting from far corner premises. Pour the solution between the beacons, then stretch it with the rule. If voids form during the leveling process, apply the missing mortar with a trowel and level it again.

Step 7 After a couple of days, the profiles can be carefully removed so as not to damage the surface of the screed, and the resulting grooves are filled with fresh solution. If desired, the beacons can be left in the screed; this will not affect its strength.

After 28 days, you can lay the topcoat. While the screed is drying, it should be protected from drafts and sun rays. From time to time the surface must be moistened, especially in hot weather, as rapid drying promotes cracking.

Video - How to insulate a wooden floor in a country house

What floors to make in a dacha is a question that sooner or later arises when building a dacha. To some extent, the type of coating depends on the degree of use of your building. Units can afford two-story mansions with luxury finishes, which are intended not only for weekend relaxation, but are also equipped with everything necessary for summer living in the country.

But for most summer residents, a summer house is a small building, so let's look at the simplest and not too expensive coating options.

You need to start work only after you have calculated the thickness of the base pie and taken into account the thickness of the floor covering in order to ultimately reach the desired mark.

The basis is:

On the ground
By floor (for example, attic floor)

Floor design elements

If the flooring is laid on the ground, then its pie should look like this:

The ground must be graded , leveled and compacted.
Next, an underlying layer of crushed stone, slag, gravel is arranged; sand can be laid (10 cm thick). The layer is leveled and compacted with rollers.
The waterproofing layer prevents water from accessing structural elements. It protects the structure of the above deck from rising levels groundwater. This can be two layers of roofing felt, all kinds of waterproofing films, membranes.
If the base is insulated, then the next layer is thermal insulation. If this is a summer cottage only for summer holidays, then you can do without it. Thermal insulation is usually made of expanded clay, slag approximately 150mm thick .
Device concrete preparation grades 100 – 150, 100mm thick.
Leveling screed made of mortar grade 100-150, 25 - 30 mm thick.

When laying the base on floor slabs, the pie will be slightly different. As a rule, this is the attic floor:

The soundproofing layer is not always carried out, since this is a dacha and there are no neighbors above. But if you decide to arrange a bedroom there for relaxation, then, if desired, you can also add a soundproofing layer.
A leveling layer of cement, polymer-cement or other compositions with a thickness of 20 -25 mm.

We took a tour of the main elements of preparing the base for flooring. According to the project, something from structural elements may be added or absent - everything is individual.

The base is ready, let's move on to choosing the finishing floor covering.

Finishing coating for cottage floors

The functionality of the room is of great importance when you decide what floors to make in your dacha. In any case, soil particles from the street will be brought into the room, so it should be easy to clean and wash.

Ceramic tile – universal option, environmentally friendly material. The tiles are wear-resistant, moisture-resistant, chemical-resistant, durable and simply beautiful. On the market building materials you can choose a variety of color scheme and size options floor tiles– plain tiles, with a pattern, in the form of a carpet. The material is easy to care for. Alternatively, it can be laid in the corridor, vestibule, hallway, kitchen or even in the room.

Wood- it's natural natural material(I mean plank coverings - I’m not even talking about parquet, since not everyone can afford to install it in an apartment). They are durable and have good thermal insulation, durable, environmentally friendly, which creates a healthy microclimate in the country. But high-quality wood is expensive, so more affordable softwood lumber is used more often, which must meet quality requirements (storage conditions, % humidity from 6 to 12%, etc.). Wood must be treated with special compounds - wood preservatives. Wood is especially often used in areas where it is a local material. Wooden flooring is good for everyone, but over time the process of drying out occurs, targets form, and creaking appears. It must be periodically painted or varnished. You can lay it in any room at your dacha. The technology of laying joists and laying wooden floors on joists are two articles written by me that describe in detail the whole technological process. Check out the links.

Linoleum- the most, in my opinion, quickly laid material. Based on the design, you can choose a coating that imitates any floor covering. Perhaps this is the most inexpensive option, which is laid with one carpet. But PVC linoleum - synthetic material, and its natural counterpart is an expensive pleasure. Linoleum is moisture resistant, durable, elastic, does not deform, maintenance is minimal, and appearance quite presentable. It can be placed in a room, in the kitchen, in the hallway, in the attic, that is, essentially, everywhere.

Laminate– we can consider this option. It is beautiful, functional, and difficult to distinguish from natural floor coverings. Laminate is resistant to abrasion - there are several classes of it with different characteristics. The procedure for laying laminate is not complicated, and at a price of 1 m2 it is even slightly lower than ceramic tiles. It is easy to care for, but is afraid of moisture. It can be placed in rooms.

Carpet Perfect for arranging a room in the attic, if it is a bedroom or a recreation room. You won’t bring dirt to the second floor on the soles of your shoes, and there’s practically no dust in the dacha. You can choose a suitable carpet from inexpensive options. The carpet is beautiful sound-absorbing material, soft to the touch. Care is a vacuum cleaner.

It is up to you to decide what kind of flooring to make in your dacha. There are many more types of it that you can lay in your dacha.

Last fall I finished renovating my dacha, and I ended up with three types of coverage. Ceramic tiles in the kitchen and hallway, laminate flooring in the living room, and linoleum in the bedroom on the first floor and in the attic. I proceeded from the purpose of the premises, the material side of the issue, aesthetic aspects, since when arriving at the dacha, I want to take a break from work week, tinker with the land in hunting, be on fresh air and get a charge of positivity for the entire next week of work.

When choosing a method for installing floors in a dacha, take into account the structural features and operating conditions. If the house is used only for summer period, then the requirements for the floor are the same, but if year-round living is expected, then the floor design must meet more serious requirements. Today we will look at options on how to arrange floors in a dacha, how to insulate them and finish them.

First of all, before choosing a flooring option, in addition to climatic features region, terrain and soil characteristics, take into account the purpose country house, its size and seasonality of operation.

If this small house, which on the site is used mostly as summer cuisine and a utility room for storing equipment, then you can get by with a simple wooden flooring along the joists using expanded clay.

If people sometimes come to the dacha to spend the night, then the floor will need to be insulated. High-quality thermal insulation will allow you to comfortably stay in such a house even in winter time. For a dacha with year-round use, the floor should be given Special attention– a single-layer structure is not enough here. Careful insulation of the subfloor and installation of a finishing floor will be required, followed by finishing. As an option - installing a concrete screed. The floor will be warm and reliable. Additionally, it will be possible to install a water heating system.

Requirements

If we assume that a dacha is a structure that does not imply year-round accommodation, then the floors are subject to requirements regarding strength, reliability, and ease of maintenance. There is no point in laying expensive flooring. The floor should be easy to clean and wear-resistant.

It is worth considering the operating conditions of the flooring in the premises for various purposes so that the floor lasts as long as possible. The aesthetic component is also an important factor. After all, a person comes to his dacha to relax, sometimes invites guests, so the house should be neat and cozy.

Concrete floor

In most cases, concrete floors must be finished. Most cheap option is a coloring that will prevent dust formation on a clean concrete surface and simplify the care of the floor. In addition, the surface will become somewhat decorative. One more simple option is the installation of a boardwalk concrete base.

The advantages of a concrete floor include the following:

Practical, reliable and solid.
Possibility of creating a perfectly flat surface.
Possibility of finishing with any materials.
Possibility of use in a system with electric or water coolant.
Durability.
Maintainability.
Possibility of repeatedly painting the surface for renewal.
Unpretentious care.
Moisture resistance.

There are several disadvantages. The first is that concrete surface very dusty. But this issue can be solved by painting the surface with paint. The second disadvantage is the laboriousness of the process and the need to allocate time for the screed to dry. The third disadvantage is more noticeable - concrete is a cold material, and walking on it barefoot is not comfortable. A carpet will not protect you from this cold. If you can survive this in the summer, then in the fall and spring such a cold floor will become a real punishment. Therefore it is pure concrete screed can be used in a country house where living is not expected, and the house is used only in the warm season. In other cases, a concrete screed can only serve as the basis for an insulated floor structure with a finishing decorative coating.

You might be interested in an article on how to fill your own . There you will find everything: tools, a calculator for calculations and instructions for pouring it yourself.

In this regard, the screed itself can be constructed in different ways. In some places you can get by with only a rough screed, but in others you will need to lay several layers with insulation. In both cases, the preparation of the base is carried out in the same way: the soil in the underground is leveled and compacted, followed by laying and compacting a ten-centimeter sand cushion.

A rough screed does not require special qualifications of the builder, but, nevertheless, involves a large number of works associated with its creation. You will find the features of the device and a calculator for calculating the amount of ingredients for a floor screed solution

Concrete floor with rough screed

Insulated concrete floor for a summer house with periodic or permanent residence made as follows:

A rough screed with a thickness of 12 to 15 cm, made on the basis of a gravel-cement mixture, is poured over a compacted sand layer. Generally rough screed should be as smooth as possible, but there are no requirements for surface quality.
The screed is allowed to dry for approximately 15 days, depending on temperature and humidity.
After the rough screed has dried, a vapor barrier film is laid on top of it.
Insulation material is laid or poured on top of the vapor barrier. When using bulk insulation - medium-fraction expanded clay or slag, it is carefully compacted. Among slab insulation materials, extruded polystyrene foam is the most popular, as it has sufficient hardness.
Used as a waterproofing layer for finishing screed plastic film. The joints of individual canvases are carefully taped, and the canvases themselves are placed on the walls around the perimeter of the room by at least 20 cm.
In order to prevent the destruction of the screed due to temperature changes, glue along the perimeter of the room in the lower part of the walls.
A reinforcing material is placed on top of the film. metal mesh with a cell measuring 10 x 10 cm, beacons are placed.
The solution is laid out so that it is higher than the beacons, and then, using the rule, they begin to pull it out, lightly compacting it and evenly distributing it over the base so that it forms a surface flush with the upper plane of the beacons.

After the finishing screed has completely dried, it is treated with special dust-removing and strengthening compounds and the installation of decorative flooring or plank flooring along the joists begins. In the latter case, the floor can be additionally insulated by laying insulation between the joists.

Advice! If it is not possible to install the floor using joists due to the small height of the room, then insulation can be provided in advance in the screed or electric heating mats can be laid on top of it.

Simplified version

The method of constructing a concrete floor described above is a classic, but there is also a simplified version. The construction of such a floor occurs as follows:

Wooden floor

More traditional way flooring devices at the dacha are wooden structure. Moreover, its production will take less time. The advantages of a wooden floor include the following:

Environmental friendliness and safety, naturalness and natural warmth.
Wood is a breathable material, so it has a positive effect on the formation of optimal microclimatic parameters in a residential building.
This flooring is universal and does not need to be finished with another material.
Wood, especially coniferous species, is quite strong, hard and durable. It contains natural antiseptics, and therefore is not afraid of insects and mold.
Wooden floor can be treated with varnish, wax, oil, stain, or painted, giving it a decorative appearance.
With proper care and treatment with special compounds, wood can withstand temperature changes and humidity.

Some types of wood have high moisture resistance and are used even in damp rooms. But in any case, treatment with special impregnations will be required. In addition, before starting installation of the floor structure, all wooden elements will need to be treated with anti-feather agents.

Wooden decking on concrete base

It was previously said that you can make a concrete floor in a dacha more comfortable by laying wooden flooring on top. In this case, there are two ways to attach the logs - directly to the concrete base and the so-called adjustable logs, which rise above the floor surface to a height of 10 cm. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the height of the room and the location of heating radiators, if any.

It happens as follows:

A polyethylene film is laid on top of the screed, which will protect against dust and act as a waterproofing layer.
The joists are fastened to the floor using anchors with a pitch of at least 60 cm - this standard width insulation. The logs are also fixed from the walls at a distance equal to the width of the insulation.
Fragments of slab insulation are laid on edge along the perimeter of the room along the walls so that their height is higher than the joist by the thickness of the plywood sheet or board.
Insulation is laid between the fixed joists.
The floor is covered with vapor barrier material.
At the final stage, there are two ways: laying moisture-resistant plywood, but this will require laying a finishing coating - laminate or linoleum. If you lay boards, then such a floor will be more functional - it can be painted, varnished, and emphasized by natural patterns using various processing methods.

When installing adjustable joists use bars or special adjustable threaded stands. In the second case, leveling the logs is quite simple - just twist the legs to a certain height. The advantage of this method of fastening the logs is that the insulation can be laid not in one, but in two layers. Also, this method does not require a perfectly flat base, since each leg is set to the desired height independently.

What to consider when installing a wooden floor

When installing a floor in a dacha, it is still recommended to give preference to a two-layer floor construction - it will not be much more expensive than a single-layer flooring, but will allow you to get a guaranteed warm floor that can be used all year round.

Main load-bearing element, forming the frame of the structure, are logs. They are lined with plywood from below, forming a so-called subfloor on which insulation is laid. From above, the entire structure is covered with a vapor barrier and covered with a finishing flooring made of plywood or boards.

During operation, wood can become deformed and twisted. To avoid this, when making flooring from boards, a compensation gap must be provided between the flooring and the walls. It is also necessary to provide natural ventilation floor designs. It is also important to correctly calculate the supporting elements in the right amount, since they reliably fix the logs in a given position.

There are two fundamentally different ways wooden floor installations. Conventionally, such constructions can be called dependent and independent. In the first case, the logs are fixed directly to the foundation, so the floor and frame of the house are rigidly connected to each other and both can react to natural seasonal fluctuations. In the second case, the logs are installed on columns independent from the structure of the house. This type of flooring is recommended for regions with low-moving and stable soils. The first method of laying lags is more reliable.

The process of installing the floor and laying insulation

The material for filing the subfloor can be slab or unedged board, thin plywood or OSB boards - the main purpose of this material is that it is a support for insulation material, so its appearance does not play any role.

The logs are fixed along the entire length cranial block, to which the subfloor boards are fixed so that they fit as tightly as possible. Wooden elements are pre-treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.

The next stage involves laying insulation in the form of wood concrete, polystyrene foam, mineral wool or expanded clay. It must be placed tightly between the joists. If gaps form, you can use polyurethane foam, and to protect the structure from condensation, a vapor barrier material is laid on top of the insulation.

After this, they begin laying the final flooring from boards or plywood, followed by finishing with linoleum or laminate.

Prices for floor boards

floor boards

Video - How to make a heated floor in a country house

With the problem of replacing or repairing floors in country houses, one way or another, almost all owners of suburban areas face. Speaking globally, any type of flooring for a summer residence is divided into two main categories. So, in this case the designs are:

prefabricated, wooden, arranged using beams;
monolithic cement or monolithic concrete.

Let's consider all the features of these methods and describe in detail the process of their implementation.

So, choosing one or another option for arranging the floor in country house, you should be guided by the following criteria:

the amount of time you have at your disposal;
the cost of materials, tools and other accessories in comparison with the budget;
climatic conditions;
features of the building itself.

We equip a monolithic concrete structure

The stages of work on laying monolithic concrete floors on the ground are carried out in this order

Of course, the first step is to clear the corresponding areas of the soil surface from all types of plants and debris.
The earth is compacted using a vibrating plate, simultaneously wetting the soil in order to compact the surface as much as possible.
Next, you need to fill in a layer of sand (about 15-20 centimeters), moisten it and compact it thoroughly until the surface becomes truly dense.
The next step will be laying a waterproofing film (other waterproofing is possible).
A reinforcing metal mesh is installed on top of the waterproofing layer.
Now it’s time to lay the “rough” screed; the thickness of this layer should not exceed 10 centimeters.
When the rough screed dries, you can lay out layers of heat and waterproofing.
At the final stage, the “finishing” sand-cement screed is poured.

It is clear that in each specific case the process of arranging a monolithic-cement type of floor may deviate slightly from these instructions. For example, you can change the thickness of any layer of the structure, thus increasing strength and reducing the level of thermal conductivity.

In case the project dacha building involves the installation of “warm” floors, usually a rough concrete screed, the thickness of which is 150 millimeters, is laid on a prepared sand “cushion” or soil. Then the insulation is lined; in this case, polystyrene foam blocks or polystyrene foam boards are usually used (thickness about 50 millimeters). The next step is arrangement sand-cement screed(thickness up to 100 millimeters).

An important nuance. Contrary to popular belief that the use of a rough screed is unnecessary, in fact it is very important stage works Of course, laying the finishing screed directly on the prepared soil or sand cushion is more economical solution. But in this situation, the durability and reliability of the floor structure will raise serious doubts. Let's assume that the sand and the earth itself are perfectly compacted, but do not forget about inevitable processes sediments of heaving soils. Such processes often lead to uneven subsidence of even well-compacted layers of soil or sand. This ultimately leads to the formation of cracks and other damage to the floor surface.

We equip the structure on wooden beams

Many dacha owners prefer plank floors equipped with beams. In conditions country house or cottage, such floors can be considered the optimal solution.

When starting to lay a wooden floor, you should clearly understand that in this case you cannot do without the use of logs - long beams with rectangular shape cross-section or logs hewn on both sides.

During construction country houses and cottages, it is quite acceptable to replace the logs with paired boards installed on the edges. Also, the role of lags in this case can be played by beams made of hard wood.

So, no matter what material is used to produce the logs, and, regardless of the size of their cross-section, they are the core supporting elements of the entire plank floor structure.

Structures of this type can stand on:

wooden beams;
pre-compacted earth;
concrete blocks;
mortgage "crown"
support pillars.

Equipment for a simple “cold” floor on dry ground

We begin again by removing the layer of soil, and also clear the area of plants and debris;
the prepared surface should be covered with a layer of clay, the thickness of which should be 2 centimeters. The clay is then moistened and compacted to the point where it is covered with a hard crust;
pour a layer of fine crushed stone (gravel) or sifted sand, then you will need to compact the surface again.

Ideally, a vibrating plate should be used for compaction, but not everyone has this unit. This is not a reason to be upset - quality tool for compaction you can make it yourself. For this, a log is used; a strong handle is attached to one of its ends.

Go ahead. Now you need to add another layer - it can be clay or river sand. It should be taken into account that this layer should be twice as thick as the lag. Next, each of the beams is alternately immersed in the backfill so that their upper boundary is flush with the top edge of the backfill.

Don't forget that natural wood– short-lived. In this regard, it is recommended to treat the beams before their installation with one of the types of antiseptic.