Step-by-step instructions for covering a gable with siding. How to finish a pediment with siding How to cover a wooden pediment with siding

2757 0 0

Siding can easily be called the most popular facade material. At the same time, this finishing material used not only for wall cladding, but also for other structural elements buildings. Let's figure out how to cover the front of a house with siding.

Technology for installing siding on the gable

The choice of material should be based not only on personal preferences, but also take into account the design features of the house. Willingly applied different kinds siding, for example:

  • cement;
  • metal siding;
  • vinyl siding.

Installing siding panels on a gable is not much different from the technology of installing a covering on the frame of a building, but it has its own subtleties and features.

When purchasing materials and components, you should give preference to products from one manufacturer: this reduces the risk of parts not matching during subsequent work.

Stage 1. Preparatory work and material calculation

I would include the following as preparatory work:

  • choice of color palette, type of material and method of its installation;
  • calculation of the amount of material (the panels themselves, additional elements, profiles for the frame);
  • quantity calculation thermal insulation material if there is a need to insulate the gable from the outside;
  • preparing the surface for installation.

When purchasing material, it is worth purchasing a little more than what the calculations require, since the possibility of errors or defects cannot be ruled out. Material is purchased 10–15% more than required.

When calculating the material, it is important to consider the following factors:

  • roof shape;
  • the presence of windows and protruding surfaces.

The principle of calculating the amount of material is simple: divide the area of ​​the pediment by the area of ​​one siding strip.

If in the roof mansard type If there are window openings, then initially it is necessary to calculate the total area of ​​the openings (if there are several of them), subtract this value from the area of ​​the gable, and divide the resulting number by the area of ​​one siding strip.

The triangular type of gable roofs is the most common, so in this example we will look at how to calculate the amount of material required for finishing the pediment gable roof with one window with your own hands:

  1. We are looking for the area of ​​the roof triangle using the formula S = 1/2 AB, where A is the height, B is the base. Let’s say the length of the base is 6 m and the height of the roof is 4 m, respectively S = 1/2 6x4 = 12 m.
  2. We look for the area of ​​the window using the formula S=AB, where A and B are the values ​​of the sides. For example, a window opening rectangular shape width 1.2 m and height 1.6 m, then it turns out that S = 1.2x1.6 = 1.92 m.
  3. We subtract the window area from the pediment area and get S = 12-1.92 = 10.08 m.
  4. The standard size of one siding strip is: 300x20.5 cm. Convert to meters and get: S=3x0.205=0.615 m.
  5. 10.08/0.615=16.39 m. We round, take into account the margin and get required amount material for the pediment - approximately 17 m².

Stage 2. Frame and additional elements

The panels must be installed on the frame sheathing, even if the pediment is perfectly flat, for example, built from OSB panels. Using a frame allows you to level the plane decorative cladding and lay thermal insulation in the cavity of the frame.

For the construction of the sheathing the following can be used:

  • metal profile;
  • timber

I still recommend using the first option, since with a metal profile the risk of siding deformation is practically reduced to zero. Natural properties wood can cause the new pediment to “lead” over time.

The standard step - 60 cm - is also valid when constructing a frame for covering the gable with siding.

Installation of siding is impossible without additional elements. Without which ones? See table:

Image Description
Element 1. Starting profile

It has the form of a perforated narrow strip, which is installed first and is the starting fastener.

Element 2. Finishing profile

Used as the last fastening element, necessary if the roof gable has a complex shape and edges parallel to the base.


Element 3. J-profile or “jake”

It got its name due to its characteristic cut line. Used to complete gable sheathing and install soffits on eaves and roof overhangs.

Element 4. H-profile

Allows you to hide the joints of siding strips on the facade and visible places.

Element 5. Corner strips

Used for fastening and hiding the joints of external and internal corners in case of complex roof structure.

Stage 3. Step-by-step installation process

Finishing the gable should begin with preparing the surface and applying a vapor barrier if it is necessary to insulate the roof from the outside. Irregularities and cracks must be eliminated.

A wooden or metal frame is already installed on vapor barrier material, and the metal profile is attached using hangers - special fasteners that allow you to align the frame slats.

In the case of cladding the pediment of a wooden house, you can also use pre-treated timber, which is fastened with self-tapping screws and dowels.

When the frame is erected, you can start covering:

Image Description

Step 1: installation of the starting profile and strapping

The panels are installed from the base of the roof to its top.

  • The starting profile is attached in the lower part of the pediment to the frame guide. Compliance with the plane of the frame is checked using a building level;
  • the harness is attached parallel to the roof slope. Use J-profile or punks for internal corners;
  • if joints of siding panels are provided, then it is necessary to install an H-profile to fix and decorate them.

Step 2: installation of ebb tides

If there are windows on the gable, the plane of which is different from that of the walls, then the installation of slopes and window sills will be required before installing the cladding panels.

Also, if the pediment and the walls of the box do not form a solid structure, it is necessary to install the pediment flashing before initial stages for installation of siding panels.

  • The window sill is installed under the window (if possible);
  • The gable ebb is installed at a slope of 20° to 45°. It is better to use plastic or metal profile as a material;
  • if the wall of the house protrudes forward, then the slope is made from cement mortar, and after that the ebb is attached to it;
  • otherwise, together with the siding sheathing, a frame with a slope of up to 45° is installed; a step of 60 cm will be optimal. After installing the frame, you can install the ebb.

Step 3: Installing the Planks
  • The first bar is attached to the starting profile with self-tapping screws, and it is important to ensure that the latter are not screwed too tightly and are located in the middle of the hole in the starting bar.
  • the edges of the siding are trimmed to fit the roof slope (you can prepare a template in advance and cut it according to it);
  • it is necessary to take into account an expansion gap of about 5–7 mm when inserting the edges of the siding into the J-profile or corner profile;
  • siding is installed one by one line by line, taking into account a gap of several millimeters;
  • the top siding panel must be cut according to the angle of the roof top, the last strip is attached using a self-tapping screw with a through fastening.

The fixation of all elements must be carried out taking into account their changes during temperature fluctuations. It is recommended to leave a gap of about 5 mm to compensate for the expansion of the material in the hot season, otherwise the siding may become deformed.

Fastening elements should also not strongly attract the material to the frame. The self-tapping screw does not tighten completely; it is necessary that there is approximately 2 mm of free play under the head.

Stage 3. Attaching soffits to the cornice and overhangs

Soffits are used to cover roof overhangs and eaves, allowing for adequate ventilation and protection from the elements. external factors and attractive appearance.

The installation principle is largely similar to that described above, but has some features. It is important to remember that the installation of such elements requires the presence of sheathing:

Photo Instructions

Step 1: Install the J-Bevel.

J-planks are installed on the eaves and overhangs (along the inner corner and the edge of the slope/eaves) to fix the soffits and hide the outer edges.


Step:2 installation of spotlights

The soffits are fastened using self-tapping screws onto the guide battens. The next panel is connected with a lock to the previous one until a characteristic click is heard.

The edges of the soffits are inserted into the J-straps before fastening with self-tapping screws. This is not difficult to do due to the sufficient flexibility of the finishing material.

The space at the top of the wall of the house, between the ceiling and the roof slopes, is called the pediment. They can be varied in shape:

The surface of the pediment can be either blank or with the presence of window and attic openings. Pediments are often made insulated to reduce heat loss through the ceiling. They are sheathed both during repair work and during construction.
Vinyl siding is the most commonly used material for siding the facades and gables of a home. This is due to its low cost, variety of products, durability and ease of installation.
Finishing the gable with siding does not require much time and effort. Following the manufacturer's instructions, it is possible to install it yourself.

Preparatory work: selection of materials

To prevent technical incidents, it is necessary to take preparatory work seriously.


  • Installing siding panels from stairs is difficult and inconvenient; you will need to install scaffolding.
  • Prepare a level area for placing the siding in a horizontal position.
  • Purchase the necessary tools for the job: building level, screwdriver, metal scissors, hammer, tape measure, plumb bob, jigsaw or hacksaw, construction square.
  • Calculate the required amount of material. Usually the manufacturer indicates on the packaging what area it is designed for. given quantity. To the required quantity you must add 10% - a reserve for scrap and cutting.

Facade vinyl siding

Advantages and disadvantages:


The disadvantages include:

  • instability to mechanical stress;
  • no gaps during installation, which leads to deformation under the influence of temperature changes.

Each company uses its own production technologies, and therefore the thickness of the plastic panels may vary. Therefore, it is advisable to purchase additional material and ordinary siding from the same manufacturer.

For installation you will need:

  • ordinary siding;
  • starting profile for attaching the bottom of the first row panel;
  • J-profile for installing siding around window and door openings;
  • H-profile for joining siding panels along the length;
  • corner elements for high-quality and aesthetic design of corners;
  • finishing strips to complete the design of the structure, covering ordinary siding panels at the ends.

Hardware


The choice of fastening material plays an important role. Nails or self-tapping screws are used to secure the siding.
Nails are much more affordable in price than galvanized self-tapping screws, but they have a number of disadvantages:

  • inconvenient installation and dismantling. Siding panels are unstable to mechanical stress, and it is easy to break their integrity with an inaccurate blow of a hammer;
  • over time, the fixation may weaken and lead to loosening, which will affect the appearance of the structure.

With the advent of the screwdriver, self-tapping screws have become widely used. Their advantages include:

  • speed and ease of installation;
  • the presence of threads, which contributes to reliable fixation;
  • it is easy to adjust the degree of pressing of the siding panel to the sheathing;
  • if necessary, it is possible to dismantle the finishing material without disturbing its safety.


Preference should be given to galvanized screws with a flat head, the length of which should be at least 30 mm. To prevent rust from appearing at the fastening points, special rubberized washers are used.
Knowing the area of ​​the pediment, it is easy to calculate the required amount of fastening material. In horizontal panels, the fastening pitch is 25-30 cm. H-profiles, J-profiles and corner elements are fastened in increments of 40 cm. The average number of screws required is per 10 sq. m - 160 pieces.

Installation work

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the pediment of the building:

  • delete everything decorative elements protruding beyond the plane of the wall;
  • loose finishes, especially those that are falling off, should be renewed or completely removed;
  • the wooden facade must be checked for reliability of fastening of the boards and treated antiseptic impregnations, preventing the appearance of mold and mildew;
  • It is better to give the new building time to shrink before decorating the pediment.

Lathing

The sheathing is a support for fastening the siding panels. The appearance of the finished roof and eaves depend on the level of the surface to which the siding is attached. Therefore, it is required to perform it in an ideal plane.


The presence of sheathing is also necessary for placing heat-insulating material and a hydro-vapor barrier. About 30% of heat loss occurs through the roof.
The gap formed by the sheathing between the wall of the house and the siding panels promotes ventilation, reduces the formation of condensation, thereby normalizing the humidity in the room.

The gable sheathing can be made of wooden beams or metal profiles.
If preference is given to wooden beams, it should be taken into account that its humidity should be no more than 15%, the optimal cross-section is 50 * 60 mm. To prevent corrosion, mold and insects, it must first be soaked in an antiseptic solution.
During installation vinyl siding the recommended distance between sheathing steps should be 40-60 cm. In areas exposed to strong winds, it is advisable to reduce the sheathing pitch.


If the choice is made in favor of metal, it is necessary to choose a galvanized profile with stiffeners.
To fasten the metal profile to the base, brackets or hangers are used.

Begin installing the sheathing on both sides simultaneously. A rope is pulled between the outer profiles, which serves as a guide for maintaining a horizontal plane.
Then install the brackets on which the profile will be mounted. If the gable insulation is provided, a heat-insulating layer and a vapor barrier are laid, after which the remaining profiles are installed.

If there are window and attic openings on the pediment, the profile is additionally installed around the perimeter of the openings.

After installation is completed, be sure to check that the plane is level using a level.

The cost of wooden sheathing is much lower. Doing it with your own hands will not be difficult.


To facilitate the work, it is necessary to choose a flat, dried timber (wet wood will deform over time and will lead to the entire structure), impregnated with an anti-corrosion solution. It is advisable to use timber that matches the size of the roof gable.

If thermal insulation is not provided, then the sheathing can be attached to the base of the gable. To do this, the timber is pre-drilled and mounted to the wall through the resulting holes. To maintain the plane, wedges are placed.
If insulation is provided, attach the brackets according to the markings, then lay a layer of thermal insulation and a water barrier.
First of all, the outer beams are installed, and a cord is pulled, which serves as a guide for maintaining the plane.
Afterwards the remaining beam is fixed. If there are window openings on the gable of the house, additional timber is attached around the perimeter.

Rules for fastening siding panels

Siding is subject to linear expansion along its length due to temperature changes. A three-meter panel installed at an ambient temperature of +5 0, in summer period extends by 12 mm. These features of vinyl must be taken into account when cutting. The manufacturer indicates possible changes to the parameters on the packaging. Calculate required size It won’t be difficult to design a cornice with your own hands.
So that the siding can expand and contract without hindrance, the strip is measured at 1.5 cm smaller size pediment. A gap of at least 1 mm must be left between the screw head and the siding. You need to install the hardware in the middle of the hole that is used to fix the panel. Failure to comply with these instructions leads to deformation of the house's cladding.


Installation of plastic panels

When arranging the roof and eaves with siding for the first time, it is better to start with a blind gable. At the level of the ceiling, you need to install a drip flashing. They attach it with press washers to each sheathing profile and along the end to increase rigidity. If there is a window opening, you must first install slopes and ebb on it. All edges should be flared to prevent moisture from penetrating behind the sheathing frame. Install a J-profile around the opening.
A starting bar is attached on top of the low tide, the position of which must be strictly horizontal. When installing several starting strips, leave 10 mm between them.
The next step is to install the internal corners.

On this preparatory work for installing siding with your own hands are finished. You can begin installing vinyl panels on the gable of the house.
You can use a grinder to cut siding, but in this case you have to raise the electrical wires to the level of the roof of the house. In this case, for convenience, use scissors. To avoid having to measure the angle of the roof for each panel, it is advisable to make a template. But you need to take into account that the slope of each slope may be different; two templates need to be made, left and right.


When the vinyl panels are installed correctly, you should hear a characteristic click. The very last panel needs to be decorated with a finishing strip and decorated with a corner element. The roof overhangs are sheathed last.
Everyone is at home with sloping roofs equipped with cornices. Usually the length of the cornice is from 40 cm to a meter. Protecting the roof and walls of the house from rain and snow is the main function of the cornice. For its cladding, soffits are used, which have ventilation holes in their design that help ventilate the space under the roof. Decorating the cornice with siding begins with installing the frame. It must be assembled in two perpendicular planes, at right angles to each other. After covering the cornice with siding, you need to cover the cut joints with a finishing profile and a J-bevel.
If you follow all the recommendations specified by the siding manufacturer, covering the roof eaves yourself will take a little time and effort.

Decorating a house includes many stages, one of which is covering the gable with siding. This process is not very different from working with facades, but has some nuances associated with the special geometry of the structure. Installing the panels does not require special equipment or expensive materials; if all stages are completed, problems will not arise.

What is needed for gable cladding

To avoid delaying the installation process, it is advisable to prepare the necessary materials in advance. To work you will need the following:

  • Siding. There are many types on sale at the moment, but the most preferred are vinyl and metal. The first option is light in weight and excellent qualities, and the second requires a reliable foundation, but is characterized by decorative durability.
  • Sheathing details. The frame can be created from wooden beams with a cross-section of 50*40 or metal profiles attached to hangers. An alternative could be a special suspension system for siding, but it requires financial costs and adjustment of parts.
  • Thermal insulation material. Its use is not always necessary: ​​for example, if attic space non-residential Laying insulation makes it possible to increase the energy efficiency of a house in regions with harsh winters, but subject to the insulation of the roof surface.
  • Additional elements. Depending on the chosen technology, you will need a starting rail, a J-profile, an internal corner, a soffit, a near-window strip (if there is a window with a slope) and a platband (an opening without a recess).
  • Steam and waterproofing. Protection from water is mandatory for any work, and vapor barrier is required when lining a living space with heating.
  • Fasteners: screws, nails.

Separately, material for scaffolding should be provided. Alternatively, other options may be used to allow work at heights to be carried out without risk.

Siding calculation

Classic gable roof

Due to the fact that such a roof has the shape of a triangle, the formula is used to determine its area: ½ * (a*h).

Calculation Guide:

  1. The base of the pediment (a) is measured.
  2. From the top of the roof, the distance to the base (h) is measured.
  3. The area of ​​the window, if any, is calculated separately. To do this, the length is multiplied by the width.
  4. The area of ​​one cladding panel is indicated by the manufacturer on the label.

Float:="" left="" margin:="" https:="">

The surface of the pediment can be either blank or with the presence of window and attic openings. Pediments are often made insulated to reduce heat loss through the ceiling. They are sheathed both during repair work and during construction.
Vinyl siding is the most commonly used material for siding the facades and gables of a home. This is due to its low cost, variety of products, durability and ease of installation.
Finishing the gable with siding does not require much time and effort. Following the manufacturer's instructions, it is possible to install it yourself.

The easiest way to have a beautiful front lawn

You've certainly seen the perfect lawn in a movie, on an alley, or perhaps on your neighbor's lawn. Those who have ever tried to grow a green area on their site will no doubt say that it is a huge amount of work. The lawn requires careful planting, care, fertilization, and watering. However, only inexperienced gardeners think this way; professionals have long known about the innovative product - liquid lawn AquaGrazz.

To prevent technical incidents, it is necessary to take preparatory work seriously.

  • Installing siding panels from stairs is difficult and inconvenient; you will need to install scaffolding.
  • Prepare a level area for placing the siding in a horizontal position.
  • Purchase the necessary tools for the job: a construction level, a screwdriver, metal scissors, a hammer, a tape measure, a plumb line, a jigsaw or hacksaw, a construction square.
  • Calculate the required amount of material. Usually the manufacturer indicates on the packaging what area this quantity is intended for. To the required quantity you must add 10% - a reserve for scrap and cutting.

Facade vinyl siding

Advantages and disadvantages:

  • siding is able to maintain color and integrity for a long time. Its service life reaches 40 years;
  • at correct installation panels do not deform under the influence of temperature changes;
  • does not corrode under the influence of the environment;
  • resistant to fire;

The disadvantages include:

  • instability to mechanical stress;
  • no gaps during installation, which leads to deformation under the influence of temperature changes.

Each company uses its own production technologies, and therefore the thickness of the plastic panels may vary. Therefore, it is advisable to purchase additional material and ordinary siding from the same manufacturer.

For installation you will need:

  • ordinary siding;
  • starting profile for attaching the bottom of the first row panel;
  • J-profile for installing siding around window and door openings;
  • H-profile for joining siding panels along the length;
  • corner elements for high-quality and aesthetic design of corners;
  • finishing strips to complete the design of the structure, covering ordinary siding panels at the ends.

Hardware

The choice of fastening material plays an important role. Nails or self-tapping screws are used to secure the siding.
Nails are much more affordable in price than galvanized self-tapping screws, but they have a number of disadvantages:

  • inconvenient installation and dismantling. Siding panels are unstable to mechanical stress, and it is easy to break their integrity with an inaccurate blow of a hammer;
  • over time, the fixation may weaken and lead to loosening, which will affect the appearance of the structure.

With the advent of the screwdriver, self-tapping screws have become widely used. Their advantages include:

  • speed and ease of installation;
  • the presence of threads, which contributes to reliable fixation;
  • it is easy to adjust the degree of pressing of the siding panel to the sheathing;
  • if necessary, it is possible to dismantle the finishing material without disturbing its safety.


Preference should be given to galvanized screws with a flat head, the length of which should be at least 30 mm. To prevent rust from appearing at the fastening points, special rubberized washers are used.
Knowing the area of ​​the pediment, it is easy to calculate the required amount of fastening material. In horizontal panels, the fastening pitch is 25-30 cm. H-profiles, J-profiles and corner elements are fastened in increments of 40 cm. The average number of screws required is per 10 sq. m - 160 pieces.

Installation work

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the pediment of the building:

  • remove all decorative elements protruding beyond the plane of the wall;
  • loose finishing, especially falling off, should be renewed or completely removed;
  • the wooden facade must be checked for reliability of fastening of the boards and treated with antiseptic impregnations that prevent the appearance of mold and mildew;
  • It is better to give the new building time to shrink before decorating the pediment.

Lathing

The sheathing is a support for fastening the siding panels. The appearance of the finished roof and eaves depend on the level of the surface to which the siding is attached. Therefore, it is required to perform it in an ideal plane.

The presence of sheathing is also necessary for placing heat-insulating material and a hydro-vapor barrier. About 30% of heat loss occurs through the roof.
The gap formed by the sheathing between the wall of the house and the siding panels promotes ventilation, reduces the formation of condensation, thereby normalizing the humidity in the room.

The gable sheathing can be made of wooden beams or metal profiles.
If preference is given to wooden beams, it should be taken into account that its humidity should be no more than 15%, the optimal cross-section is 50 * 60 mm. To prevent corrosion, mold and insects, it must first be soaked in an antiseptic solution.
When installing vinyl siding, the recommended distance between the sheathing steps should be 40-60 cm. In areas exposed to strong winds, it is advisable to reduce the sheathing pitch.

Metal sheathing

If the choice is made in favor of metal, it is necessary to choose a galvanized profile with stiffeners.
To fasten the metal profile to the base, brackets or hangers are used.

Begin installing the sheathing on both sides simultaneously. A rope is pulled between the outer profiles, which serves as a guide for maintaining a horizontal plane.
Then install the brackets on which the profile will be mounted. If the gable insulation is provided, a heat-insulating layer and a vapor barrier are laid, after which the remaining profiles are installed.

If there are window and attic openings on the pediment, the profile is additionally installed around the perimeter of the openings.

After installation is completed, be sure to check that the plane is level using a level.

Wooden sheathing

The cost of wooden sheathing is much lower. Doing it with your own hands will not be difficult.

To facilitate the work, it is necessary to choose a flat, dried timber (wet wood will deform over time and will lead to the entire structure), impregnated with an anti-corrosion solution. It is advisable to use timber that matches the size of the roof gable.

If thermal insulation is not provided, then the sheathing can be attached to the base of the gable. To do this, the timber is pre-drilled and mounted to the wall through the resulting holes. To maintain the plane, wedges are placed.
If insulation is provided, attach the brackets according to the markings, then lay a layer of thermal insulation and a water barrier.
First of all, the outer beams are installed, and a cord is pulled, which serves as a guide for maintaining the plane.
Afterwards the remaining beam is fixed. If there are window openings on the gable of the house, additional timber is attached around the perimeter.

Rules for fastening siding panels

Siding is subject to linear expansion along its length due to temperature changes. A three-meter panel installed at an ambient temperature of +5 0 extends by 12 mm in summer. These features of vinyl must be taken into account when cutting. The manufacturer indicates possible changes to the parameters on the packaging. Calculating the required size is not difficult when decorating a cornice with your own hands.
So that the siding can expand and contract without hindrance, the strip is measured 1.5 cm less than the size of the pediment. A gap of at least 1 mm must be left between the screw head and the siding. You need to install the hardware in the middle of the hole that is used to fix the panel. Failure to comply with these instructions leads to deformation of the house's cladding.

Installation of plastic panels

When arranging the roof and eaves with siding for the first time, it is better to start with a blind gable. At the level of the ceiling, you need to install a drip flashing. They attach it with press washers to each sheathing profile and along the end to increase rigidity. If there is a window opening, you must first install slopes and ebb on it. All edges should be flared to prevent moisture from penetrating behind the sheathing frame. Install a J-profile around the opening.
A starting bar is attached on top of the low tide, the position of which must be strictly horizontal. When installing several starting strips, leave 10 mm between them.
The next step is to install the internal corners.

At this point, the preparatory work for installing siding with your own hands is completed. You can begin installing vinyl panels on the gable of the house.
You can use a grinder to cut siding, but in this case you have to raise the electrical wires to the level of the roof of the house. In this case, for convenience, use scissors. To avoid having to measure the angle of the roof for each panel, it is advisable to make a template. But you need to take into account that the slope of each slope may be different; two templates need to be made, left and right.

When the vinyl panels are installed correctly, you should hear a characteristic click. The very last panel needs to be decorated with a finishing strip and decorated with a corner element. The roof overhangs are sheathed last.
All houses with sloping roofs are equipped with eaves. Usually the length of the cornice is from 40 cm to a meter. Protecting the roof and walls of the house from rain and snow is the main function of the cornice. For its cladding, soffits are used, which have ventilation holes in their design that help ventilate the space under the roof. Decorating the cornice with siding begins with installing the frame. It must be assembled in two perpendicular planes, at right angles to each other. After covering the cornice with siding, you need to cover the cut joints with a finishing profile and a J-bevel.
If you follow all the recommendations specified by the siding manufacturer, covering the roof eaves yourself will take a little time and effort.

You can pay 30-50% less for light, depending on what electrical appliances you use.

How to properly cover the front of a house with siding?

An integral element of a house with a pitched roof is the pediment. It performs not only the functions of enclosing structures, but also serves as decoration of the house and part of its facade. Therefore, it is so important to properly frame the gable so that the attic or attic floor is warm, and the external gable part is in harmony with the entire building and performs aesthetic functions. In our article we will list the materials that are suitable for the exterior finishing of this part of the structure, and also briefly describe the nuances that you should know before covering the gable of a house with siding or doing it in the case of using lining and corrugated board.

Features of the design of pediments

Part outer wall of a house, bounded from below by the ceiling of the building, and from above by the planes of the pitched roof, is called a pediment. At the same time, gables will inevitably appear when installing a sloping, gable or single-pitched roof, as well as a half-hip roof. In the latter case, this structural part of the building will not have a triangular shape, but a trapezoidal one. Using sloping roof At home, the pediment will be polygonal, and if a vaulted roof is installed, the shape of the pediment will be round.

Before deciding how to sheathe the pediment of a house with your own hands, it is important to understand which group this design belongs to according to technological characteristics:

  1. The cheapest option, suitable for doing it yourself, is a pediment built using frame technology. In this case, the insulation is laid between the frame posts, and the gable wall itself is sheathed along the frame. This method of arranging a pediment is actively used in private construction as the simplest option for arranging a light roof.
  2. You will have to sheathe a solid gable wall if the house is being built from aerated blocks, bricks, cylinders or timber. This method of arranging a pediment is more complex and requires the performer to have at least basic knowledge in construction. In this way, the gables of buildings that are undergoing major repairs and reconstruction are sheathed. Although this method can be used to sheathe a house built from ordinary brick or cellular concrete, after which it will acquire a beautiful and respectable appearance.

Important: the pediment can be made of the same material as the walls of the house, or made of a different material. For example, in brick house there may be a pediment built using frame technology, or in a stone house a rounded beam can be used to make the pediment.

Main functions of the pediment:

  • Wind protection. Since the pediment is exposed to wind, it must be sufficiently strong and airtight.
  • This structural part of the building supports the pitched roof. Though truss structure rests on the walls of the house and the mauerlat, the pediment additionally supports the slopes. This is especially true for roofs covered with slate or natural tiles.
  • If there is a residential area under the roof attic floor, then the pediment is assigned the function of preserving heat in the room. In this case, before sheathing the gable of the house, it is important to provide high-quality insulation walls
  • To protect the walls of the house and the roof space from moisture, the pediment should be finished with moisture-resistant material, which will increase the tightness of the structure.
  • The cladding layer on the pediment also performs aesthetic functions. How beautiful the whole house will look depends on what you cover the pediment with.

Sheathing materials

Only you can decide how to decorate your home. If the work is carried out with your own hands, then in addition to beauty and practicality, the material should be easy and quick to install. That's why for self-cladding The following materials are most often used in this part of the house:

Some craftsmen manage to sheathe the gable part of their house with moisture-resistant plywood, OSB or plasterboard, and then plaster and paint it facade paints. But this option is not very durable and practical. You can also find pediments made of opaque polycarbonate. However, this option can hardly boast of high heat and sound insulation characteristics.

Cladding

If you want to choose a cheaper cladding material, then there is nothing better than lining. This product is suitable for DIY installation, has a pleasant color (although it can be painted in desired shade), and also stands out with the beautiful texture of natural wood.

The cladding of the gable of the house with boards (lining) is carried out on a wooden frame made of timber. As fastening elements Nails and screws are used. When installing lining, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

  1. Since wood is exposed to microorganisms, it requires additional protective treatment with antiseptic compounds.
  2. To protect against burning, the lining and frame are treated with fire retardants.
  3. Any protective composition needs to be reapplied after 1-2 years.
  4. To protect the material from negative impact atmospheric moisture, the boards should be painted with a suitable paint and varnish composition.
  5. The lining has a convenient tongue-and-groove fastening, which greatly facilitates and speeds up installation.
  6. If the pediment is sheathed with overlapping boards, it will turn out beautiful finish"Christmas tree"

Important: without protective coatings, clapboard finishing can last a maximum of 5 years, after which the appearance of the material will deteriorate and it will begin to deteriorate. With protective treatment, the service life of the lining reaches up to 20 years, provided that the coating is regularly updated.

Siding finishing

Sheathing a gable with vinyl siding with your own hands is no more difficult than clapboard. This material is affordable and practical. It is more durable than lining and does not require regular renewal of the protective coating. This cladding is suitable for a frame-type gable, for a house made of timber, logs, brick, concrete, stone and cellular concrete. The siding is mounted on a frame made of timber or metal profiles.

You should know that in addition to the siding itself, to finish the gable you will need additional elements, starting and finishing strips, connection profiles, internal and outside corner, window strip and J-profile. In addition, it is worth remembering that vinyl siding is not attached directly to the wall. Between it and the enclosing structure, be it a wall or insulation between the frame posts, there must be a ventilation gap that will not allow condensation to collect under the finish.

Among the advantages of siding it is worth listing the following:

  • Impressive service life. This finish can last up to 50 years.
  • Acceptable price. Vinyl siding has the most reasonable price; metal and asbestos-cement options will be a little more expensive.
  • Large selection of colors, textures and design options. Thanks to this, you can easily select the finish to match the overall style and color of the house.
  • High moisture resistance. The material is not afraid of precipitation. It can even be washed if necessary.
  • The finish is not susceptible to damage by microorganisms and insects.
  • This is an easy-to-maintain material because it does not require any impregnation or painting. To refresh the façade, simply wash it with water from a hose.

Attention: since vinyl panels are subject to thermal expansion, it is very important to install the product correctly. To do this, it is necessary to leave gaps for the deformation expansion of the material and not screw the screws too tightly.

Sheathing with corrugated sheets

No less cheaply and quickly you can sheathe the gable of a house with corrugated sheeting. This product is made of thin galvanized steel with a polymer coating. To increase strength, profile ridges are made on the sheet, which act as stiffeners. For gable cladding, wall corrugated sheeting (beech marking “C”) is suitable, which has the most reasonable price.

This material can be used to cover the front part of a house made of brick, cellular concrete, logs or timber. It is attached to a special frame using self-tapping screws with sealing gaskets.

Among the advantages of this material are the following:

  • The significant dimensions of one sheet and low weight significantly speed up and simplify the installation process.
  • The coating is not afraid of moisture, resistant to corrosion, damage by microorganisms, and fading. The material is resistant to mechanical stress and temperature changes.
  • In terms of price, corrugated sheeting will cost less than siding.
  • On sale you can find products with different configurations profile and different colors polymer coating, so you can easily choose the option that suits your home.
  • During installation, a minimum of scraps is obtained, which is an additional point of savings.
  • Installation of corrugated sheeting is so simple that even a beginner can cope with this task.

Advice: to decorate the walls of a house and its pediment, it is better to use corrugated sheeting with a sheet thickness of at least 1.5 mm. Thinner products bend and deform more easily during installation.

Since the profiled sheet itself has low noise insulation, when installing it, it is better to lay thermal insulation material between the frame posts, which will additionally insulate the roof space and protect against the hum that occurs due to the impact of drops during rain. A vapor barrier membrane must be attached on top of the thermal insulation material to protect against moisture and condensation.

How the pediment is finished with siding

Unlike working with facades, finishing gable siding does not look so simple. The geometry of the structure is taken into account and additional special equipment is required.

Correct calculation of the amount of materials

To cover the pediment with siding, the amount of materials is calculated. The type of structure is taken into account and various factors are taken into account:

  1. Distance to base.
  2. Element area.
  3. U Goal tilt
  4. Roof height.

For triangular gables

To calculate materials for a triangular pediment, first of all, the base is measured. The height of the structure is also taken into account. The dimensions are multiplied and the area is divided by the area of ​​one panel. For convenience of calculations, all values ​​are reduced to one unit of measurement - square meters.

For clarity, it is necessary to consider specific example. The building may have a gable base of 3.45 meters and a height of 3.8 meters. When calculating the area, the value comes out to 0.732 square meters. For the above area, by multiplying the values, the total is 6.55 square meters.

Next, the number of required panels is directly calculated. To do this, the previously obtained value (6.55 square meters) is divided by the area of ​​one panel - 0.732 square meters. The builder receives a value of 8,948 square meters, this figure can be rounded to 89.5. In this way, a figure is obtained that corresponds to the number of siding panels with the original data.

For trapezoidal gables

In order to calculate the material when there are trapezoidal gables, a special formula is provided that takes into account the length of the top line and the height of the structure. It is necessary to mark the break point of the roof and calculate the distance from the edge. For example, you can take as a basis a house with a pediment base length of 6 meters, the length of the top line is 3 meters, and the height is 1.8 meters.

To calculate, the numbers 6 and 3 are added together, divided in half and multiplied by the height. As a result, the value is 8.1 square meter. Next, this value must be divided by the area of ​​one panel. For example, it is 0.732 square meters, resulting in a value of 11.06. After rounding the data, it turns out that in this case more than 110 panels will be required to finish the siding.

For gables with complex architectural shapes

There are houses with various protrusions and distortions. The design may include windows, various holes. In such a situation, professional builders suggest dividing the structure into separate elements and calculating the areas for different sections.

Preparatory work is directly related to determining the area window openings, and this requires only two parameters - their length and height.

If the design has several windows, the obtained indicators are added together. Next, you will have to start drawing and apply the existing polyhedral shape to a piece of paper. To simplify it, it is divided into simple figures. As in the case of windows, the area of ​​the individual elements is determined and then summed up.

At the end of the work, do not forget to take away the area of ​​the window openings. Using the example of previous calculations, the user will be able to determine the exact number of panels required.

For covering eaves and gable overhangs

The overhang is the part of the roof that protrudes beyond the wall, and the cornice is its horizontal part. Therefore the front line is vertical element. Everything must be covered with soffits, and the ends are not left without attention; strips are used different forms(droppers will do). Calculation of materials begins with measurements of the length of the cornice, width and height.

To facilitate operations, all values ​​are converted to linear meters.

Once the total area is found, everything is much simpler. A similar principle is used to determine the quadrature of the gable overhangs. Using the previous example, it is important to know the area of ​​one spotlight and perform the division operation.

Rules and features of connections of additional elements

For ease of installation of panels, it is necessary to take into account the rules for connecting additional elements. Missing panels can sometimes be ordered in a store; many manufacturers work according to drawings, taking into account the size of the panels and their shape. When considering additional elements, the main part is a perforated strip, some call it a nail part.

It is located only on one side of the panel and is intended for fastening accessories. During installation, the gap between the self-tapping screw and the perforated strip is taken into account. To make the connection secure, locks are used that look like protrusions. Manufacturers on the market offer strips interesting shapes, you can always try something new for decoration.

When installing elements, specialists are guided to the correct installation by a characteristic click.

If we consider window techniques, completely different additional elements are used. It is important to take into account the length of the protrusions; in this case, the bar is inserted into the recess. When working with door techniques, there is no need to achieve tight joining of panels. The element is fixed using self-tapping screws that are attached to the nail strip.

If the panel fits tightly to the sheathing, such a structure cannot be called stable. It is recommended to leave a small gap, namely one millimeter. This will allow the panel to move freely in the event of mechanical impact.

Thus, cases of rapid deformation of elements are excluded. During installation, you should always be prepared to trim the nail strip in order to control the width of the gap. Separate fasteners are used for different types of siding. When considering the vinyl metal type, galvanized fasteners are suitable.

Tools

When the material is prepared, it's time to take the tool:

  1. Drill and screwdriver.
  2. Angle grinder or electric jigsaw.
  3. Construction level, tape measure and ruler.
  4. Square to determine the correct installation of the panel.
  5. Hammer and mallet.
  6. Metal knife.

Lathing installation and insulation

Finishing the pediment is impossible without installing a frame. There are various types of sheathing, it is important to understand framing techniques. When it comes to insulation, different materials are available and you have to act depending on the conditions.

Metal sheathing

Galvanized profiles are available on the market and it is recommended to look for products with stiffeners. In order to fix the structure, you cannot do without brackets; hangers are used. In this case, there are no clear step-by-step instructions for execution; it is recommended to fasten the sheathing simultaneously on the left and right sides.

To orient the structure horizontally, a beacon is installed. In the best possible way a rope is suitable, which is stretched between the profiles.

The next step is to install the brackets; prepare everything necessary for insulation in advance. The lathing is fixed after installing the vapor barrier and heat-insulating layer. The situation becomes more complicated if there is window frames, the architect will have to make markings around the perimeter. At the end of the work, the accuracy of fastening the frame is assessed using a building level.

Wooden sheathing

This lathing is chosen due to its low price. You can make it yourself and you don’t need to spend money in the store. The main condition is the selection of even timber. The wood must be dry and deformation is not allowed. Separately, you will have to take care of impregnation with an anti-corrosion solution.

For structural integrity, the timber is selected along the length of the pediment. It is much easier to attach wooden sheathing without insulation. The work begins with making holes in the roof, which will later be used to fix the structure. To maintain the same level, wedges are installed.

In order to install thermal insulation or a hydraulic barrier, brackets are fixed, operations are carried out according to markings. It is recommended to start installing the structure from the outer beams, and then stretch the cord between them. If there is an attic window opening on the gable, a wooden frame is installed around the perimeter.

Covering the gable with siding

In order for siding gables to look decent even after a while, it is necessary to take into account the properties of the panels. They change their shape under the influence of temperature. As an example, you can take a workpiece 3 meters long. If it is installed in conditions where the ambient temperature is + 45 degrees, in the summer the panel will lengthen by 10 mm.

Such features of vinyl force you to carefully approach the cutting process. The manufacturer indicates the exact deformation parameters on the product. To avoid destruction of the base, the workpiece is selected to be 1.5 cm shorter than the length of the pediment. When installing a self-tapping screw, it is necessary to monitor the gap; a distance of 1 millimeter is maintained from the head.

Metis is attached in the middle of the hole. Starting installation work, actions are carried out from the blind pediment. First of all, the ebb tide is set, it should be on a par with ceiling covering. To fix it, appropriate press washers are selected. When considering the case of a window opening, it is important to take care of the lining of the slopes and ebbs.

The main problem is the need to seal the edges, this weak spots, and water may get in there. The easiest way is to flare the edges and install the profile. When the ebb is in place, the starting bar is fixed and its level is checked horizontally. If there is a need to fix several elements, a gap of 10 mm is provided.

On next stage The siding is being attached, but it must be cut in advance. An angle grinder is suitable for this, but the problem is the inconvenient location electric wire. As an alternative, many are looking at metal cutting shears. A novice builder spends a long time working on each panel, but the process can be sped up if a template is used.

To simplify the installation procedure of the panels, it is necessary to take into account the slope of the slope. When working with plastic workpieces, a click is sure to be heard when fastening. The most extreme workpiece requires careful design; a finishing strip is used. Provided various options for decoration.

When finishing the work, the overhangs are checked; it may be necessary to install cornices. When selecting an element, blanks 40 centimeters long are used. The quality of roof protection depends on the choice of eaves. As you know, it can suffer greatly during prolonged rains and snows.

Soffits are suitable as cladding; the presence of ventilation holes is taken into account, so the roof breathes and there is access to oxygen. At the end of the work, cut joints remain, and finishing profiles are used to hide them.

How to properly cover a gable with siding? Diagrams and videos

The gable of a building is a multifunctional structure; it protects the attic or attic from wind, precipitation or heat loss and gives the building a complete look. When choosing a material for its cladding, preference is given to durable and rigid panels with minimal water absorption and good resistance to UV exposure, ideally not requiring additional decorative finishing. These requirements are fully met by siding, which provides good tightness and aesthetics.

Sheathing technology: rules and step-by-step instructions

When cladding structures non-residential attic With cold roof and there is no need for good evenness of the outer walls in the frame; the siding is simply fixed between the guide profile. When choosing this option, it is easy to do the cladding yourself, the costs will be minimal. The disadvantages include the impossibility of placing an insulating layer and the risk of deformation as the main materials wear out.

When choosing a frame method, installation of siding is carried out to the sheathing of wooden slats or metal, installed in increments of 40-50 cm. Almost all manufacturers recommend the second option and indicate that their panels are not intended for attachment to beams that collapse under the influence of moisture. When covering over metal frame no problems arise, the specified warranty periods (30-50 years) become real. The supporting profile is fixed to stainless U-shaped hangers, the design acquires maximum reliability.

The main advantage is the possibility of placing thermal insulation between beams, suitable for this area mineral wool slabs or sprayed varieties have the same characteristics. Polystyrene foam is used only in cases where the budget is limited, both because of its flammability and low resistance to UV and high temperatures (a constantly illuminated pediment often heats up, the space under its cladding is doubly so). Fibrous and open-cell types of insulation require additional protection from precipitation; for this purpose, the insulating layer is covered with appropriate films.

The step-by-step guide includes the following steps:

  • Drawing up a diagram, calculating building materials, preparing surfaces.
  • Installation of the frame and additional fasteners.
  • Placement of insulation, covering it with waterproofing films.
  • Preparing the template, cutting.
  • Fastening siding: from the starting strips to the finishing section.
  • Closing joints plastic corner, covering of ebbs and window openings.
  • Installation of lamps (if available).

Even before the start, supporting structures are selected and placed - scaffolding or reliable stepladders. At the preparatory stage, the walls are cleaned of debris and dust and, if necessary, lightly leveled with plaster. When working with wood, surfaces must be treated with fire retardants and antiseptics and dried well. All protruding and interfering elements are removed, large cracks are filled with a solution or moisture-resistant foam.

The layout of the panels and the order of their installation depend on the direction of the profile. Horizontal cladding is easier to do yourself; difficulties arise only when finishing window openings.

Vertical installation is considered more attractive; in this case, fastening is carried out from the starting strip installed in the center of the pediment. Original look has a profile diverging into different sides in the form of rays, but such projects are difficult to complete without experience. To eliminate errors when cutting, a full-size sketch is created, and the siding is cut by applying cardboard templates to the walls.

At the lathing stage, a straight metal profile or wooden blocks with a cross-section of at least 25 mm. Their direction depends on the finishing method: horizontal or vertical. For support and fixation, galvanized hangers are used, placed in increments of no more than 50-60 cm. Additional strips are installed around future windows along the entire perimeter of the openings or in the areas where lamps are installed. All wooden elements must be well dried and protected from fungus and insects. Upon completion, the mineral wool slabs are fixed: tightly, without gaps or cracks, if necessary (in the case of particularly thick or two layers of insulation) secured with dowels with disc-shaped caps, covered with film with an overlap of at least 5 cm in the joint areas.

It is unacceptable to make one frame without additional support at the edges; properly done cladding of the pediment involves the use of corners or J-profiles at the line of connection with the roof and as starting slats. When the siding is horizontal, the bottom strip is attached to the sheathing using galvanized screws. At this stage, tightly screwing is avoided; the cap is placed strictly in the center of the special hole, leaving a gap of 1-2 mm between it and the material. Each subsequent panel is first placed on a locking connection (until it clicks) and only then screwed with self-tapping screws. The recommended fastener pitch is 30-40 cm. The process ends with a finishing strip.

When covering with vertical siding, installation is carried out from the center, with an approach to a pre-fixed H-profile. It is recommended to install the panels simultaneously in both directions; every three elements their level is checked; deviations are unacceptable. Any adjustments are made immediately (this also applies to horizontal finishing). The role of guides in the lower part when vertical installation performs a J-profile or molding, areas of contact with the roof are closed in any case. A gap of 12 mm and above is left along each edge and on top.

The main difficulties are associated with the design of window openings and ends. Buying a special near-window profile helps to avoid problems, but due to its high cost, it is not always available. Much depends on the level of location of the outer glass; if it coincides with the walls, it is advisable to use standard elements for framing openings made of plastic for finishing; when pressing inside the cladding, it is better to make slopes and cover them with a corner. Window profile It is considered universal; it is simply cut and bent in the right places.

Regardless of the direction of the panels, the formation of unnecessary joints should be avoided. In addition to deteriorating aesthetics, they are a risk zone; dust accumulates in these areas and moisture seeps inside. Using an H-profile to connect individual sections - required condition technology, but they are just as noticeable as the unclosed edges. Ideally, this requirement is taken into account at the stage of drawing up a layout of planks (when using metal siding 6 mm long, you can create a plan with a minimum of joints), but such implementation is expensive, and a lot of material goes to waste.

Possible mistakes when doing work yourself

Violations include:

  • Absence of technological gaps in the areas of entry into the corner and finishing profiles. Properly secured siding should have room to accommodate thermal expansion. For the same reason, it is prohibited to screw in self-tapping screws all the way.
  • Driving nails into the front part.
  • Tensioning the panels at the moment of fixation.
  • Use of low-quality (non-galvanized) fasteners and nails. When saving on hardware, after a while rusty spots appear in these areas.
  • Absence of corner strips in areas of contact with the roof.

Approximate prices for cladding services for the gable space and roof eaves are given in the table:

When ordering turnkey finishing, the minimum price for services is 400 rubles/m2 (when combined with insulation - from 700). The prices are influenced by:

  • Material and condition of the walls in the pediment area.
  • Project complexity: shape, number of window openings, siding profile layout.
  • Type of cladding when working with galvanized metal varieties the cost increases by 50 rubles/m2 both due to the high cost of the panels and the difficulties in cutting them.
  • The need for insulation, the thickness of this layer.
  • Remoteness of the object.
  • Height of structure, need for scaffolding system.
  • Professionalism of people.

When choosing an insulated option, the cost of cladding the house increases at least twice, but in the case of cladding the gable of a residential attic or attic, such costs are considered to be recouped. It should be remembered that the share of heat loss through the roof reaches 25% of the total value; insulation of this area is almost always justified. Saving on building materials is unacceptable (low-quality siding quickly fades, the presence of weak sheathing leads to distortion), the only option to reduce costs is to do the work yourself.

Decorating a house includes many stages, one of which is covering the gable with siding. This process is not very different from working with facades, but has some nuances associated with the special geometry of the structure. Installing the panels does not require special equipment or expensive materials; if all stages are completed, problems will not arise.

To avoid delaying the installation process, it is advisable to prepare the necessary materials in advance. To work you will need the following:

  • Siding. There are many types on sale at the moment, but the most preferred are vinyl and metal. The first option is light in weight and has excellent qualities, while the second requires a reliable base, but is characterized by decorative durability.
  • Sheathing details. The frame can be created from wooden beams with a cross-section of 50*40 or metal profiles attached to hangers. An alternative could be a special suspension system for siding, but it requires financial costs and adjustment of parts.
  • Thermal insulation material. Its use is not always necessary: ​​for example, if the attic space is non-residential. Laying insulation makes it possible to increase the energy efficiency of a house in regions with harsh winters, but subject to the insulation of the roof surface.
  • Additional elements. Depending on the chosen technology, you will need a starting rail, a J-profile, an internal corner, a soffit, a near-window strip (if there is a window with a slope) and a platband (an opening without a recess).
  • Steam and waterproofing. Protection from water is mandatory for any work, and vapor barrier is required when lining a living space with heating.
  • Fasteners: screws, nails.

Separately, material for scaffolding should be provided. Alternatively, other options may be used to allow work at heights to be carried out without risk.

Siding calculation

Classic gable roof

Due to the fact that such a roof has the shape of a triangle, the formula is used to determine its area: ½ * (a*h).

Calculation Guide:

  1. The base of the pediment (a) is measured.
  2. From the top of the roof, the distance to the base (h) is measured.
  3. The area of ​​the window, if any, is calculated separately. To do this, the length is multiplied by the width.
  4. The area of ​​one cladding panel is indicated by the manufacturer on the label.

Scheme 1. Calculation of the dimensions of the gable roof gable (conditionally)

Approximate calculation:

The base is 7 m, the height from the arch to the bottom is 3.5 m.

The selected type of metal siding is ship timber, the area of ​​one part is 0.85 m2 (length – 366 cm, width – 23.2 cm).

½ * (7*3.5) = 12.25 m2. ½ is 0.5, so you can divide by 2 instead of multiplying.

If there is a window, its area is subtracted from the total.

12.25/0.85 = 14.4. The result is rounded to 15, which means the required number of panels.

On a note! It is recommended to add 1-2 parts to the resulting number of panels for trimming or possible errors.

Roof with variable angle (broken)

This design has a more complex configuration, so the procedure for calculating the total area begins with measuring the entire surface and drawing up a diagram. To quickly calculate the amount of material, the pediment is divided into geometric shapes.

Scheme 2. Division of the pediment into figures (conditionally)

After breaking down, you get 4 shapes: B – rectangle, A, B1 and B2 – triangles.

The required dimensions are determined:

  • The total base of the pediment is 12 m.
  • The height from the roof or ridge to the base is 4.5 m.
  • The base of triangles B1 and B2 is 1.5 meters; height – 2 m.
  • From overall size(12 m) subtract 1.5 * 2, it turns out 9 m - the length (in1) of figure B. The width (in2) is identical to the height of figures B1 and B2 (2 m).
  • The length (b1) of rectangle B determines the size of the base (a1) for triangle A and is 9 m, the height (a2) is 2.5 m.

The area is calculated as follows:

  • Triangle A: ½ * (9 * 2.5) = 11.25 m 2.
  • B1 and B2: ½ * (1.5*2) = 1.5 m 2.
  • Rectangle B: 9*2 = 18 m2 (length*width).
  • Total area: 18+1.5+1.5+11.25 = 32.25 m2.

If there is a window, its size is subtracted. The door can also be separately sheathed with siding or highlighted with other material.

For example, a panel has an area of ​​0.85 m2, then 33/0.85 = 39 (38.8) pcs. + 1–2 spare parts.

This calculation allows you to determine how many ordinary elements will be needed to cover the complex pediment of a country house or private house.

Trapezoidal shape


Scheme 3. Dividing a trapezoidal pediment into figures (conditionally)

Measurements are taken and transferred to the diagram. For example:

  • common base – 12 m, height from it to the top of the roof – 2.8 m;
  • rectangle B: length – 8 m, width – 2.8 m;
  • triangles A and A1: height – 2.8 m, base – 2 m.

The area is determined:

  • rectangle B: 8*2.8 = 22.4 m2;
  • triangles A and A1: 2*2.8 = 5.6 m2, two figures: 5.6+5.6 = 11.2 m2;
  • total: 22.4+11.2 = 33.6 m2, rounded to 34 m2.

If there is a window or doorway, its size is subtracted.

34/0.85 (panel area) = 40. Thus, to finish the pediment, you will need 40 parts with a small margin.

It is better to select and purchase siding after measurements to determine the most suitable one.

On a note! The gable overhang (cornice) is measured separately to calculate required quantity soffit and profiles.

How to cover the front of a house with siding yourself

To properly perform finishing work, it is necessary to divide the process into stages.

Tools

After making calculations and purchasing the material, you should prepare the necessary tools:

  • Device for cutting siding. The best option is a grinder; for small jobs, an electric jigsaw or metal scissors can be used.
  • Drill and screwdriver.
  • Hammer, mallet.
  • Level.
  • Ruler and tape measure.
  • Square.
  • Construction knife.

You may also need other equipment, including for cleaning the base.


Preparatory work

High-quality finishing requires responsible preparation:

  1. If necessary, the old coating is removed. The base is cleaned of dirt, dust and anything unnecessary.
  2. The condition of the surface is assessed. Due to the fact that this design is often made of wood, defects may be present. All of them are eliminated, damaged areas are replaced with new ones.
  3. The base is processed antiseptics and fire retardants and dries well.
  4. If the attic space is residential, then an additional vapor barrier can be installed. It needs to be overlapped.

All work is carried out in good weather.

Lathing installation and insulation

Making a frame with your own hands is not difficult; the process is almost the same as with the facade. By doing general works It is advisable to make an interconnected sheathing if there is no overhang of the ebb.

Photo of the installation of wooden sheathing for siding:


Installation of interconnected façade and pediment sheathing

You should know! The frame on the wooden pediment is made from timber. The material is pre-treated with agents to increase fire resistance and protect against fungus and mold.

Algorithm for installing wooden sheathing:


In the absence of insulation, filing a moisture-proof membrane is mandatory before installing the frame.

The installation of metal profile lathing is shown in the video below.

Installation of siding and components

To finish the siding gable quickly and without errors, it is advisable to carry out the work with an assistant. Step-by-step instructions include several successive steps.

Fastening of initial elements

Work order:

  1. Installation upper parts additional products. For these purposes, several parts can be used, the most common is the fastening of a corner strip or J-profile along the inside of the roof slope. Due to the fact that the pediment has different geometries, for proper joining, all nodal elements are cut at the desired angle.
  2. After marking and tensioning the cord, the starting bar is set along the bottom. It is cut at the corners, taking into account the width of the previously installed elements and a gap of 5 mm. The part is fixed precisely in level through longitudinal mounting holes. The screws are screwed in evenly, with a gap of 1 mm. The joining of two starting elements is carried out with a gap of 5–6 mm.

Installation and docking initial elements siding

Attention! To achieve best result and to avoid the appearance of waves, the fasteners begin to be screwed or driven in from the center to the edges.

Covering window openings

Windows should be sheathed depending on the depth of the slope; most often, taking into account the created frame, the distance to the frame is more than 10 cm.

Algorithm of actions:

  1. The finishing profile needs to be secured along the inside: it is cut at an angle and joined together.
  2. The window trim is trimmed. It is adjusted to the width of the slope and connecting bends are made at the edges to prevent the appearance of cracks.
  3. The window strip is fixed along the outer perimeter to the sheathing posts. The edge is wrapped behind the laid profile.

If the depth of the slopes is insignificant, then a wide casing is installed to frame the opening.

Working with ordinary panels

To cover the gable with siding, you must do the following:

  1. If there is an equidirectional bevel of the roof, a template is immediately made for trimming the parts. If the structure has complex geometry, then several such forms will be required (for each section). Difficult places customized individually.
  2. Lack of panel length requires the installation of joining strips. The situation can be simplified: if the window opening is more than 1.5 meters, then the profiles are placed along the edges of the window. In this case, at least 3 segments of surface division are obtained.
  3. The panels are mounted traditionally. The first part is inserted behind the profile located along the slope, and connecting element and descends to the starting bar. Then it rises to the connection of the locking part with a small gap.
  4. Further stitching is done in a similar way, taking into account trimming the edges.
  5. The last element - a small corner - is attached directly through the drilled hole, after which it is sealed.

A level check must be carried out, and an expansion gap must be left.

Completion

On last stage The roof overhang needs to be hemmed:

  1. If an internal corner was previously installed, then a J-profile is mounted along the outer part of the overhang. But for complete closure(if the thickness is sufficient), a J-chamfer (wind board) is installed instead of this element. If the thickness is small, it is replaced with a simple overhead corner.
  2. The trimmed soffit is placed in the resulting space. The parts are attached in the same way as siding.
  3. If the roof has a complex geometry, then connecting strips are placed at the corner nodes.
  4. After the process is completed, the reliability of all parts is checked.

If the work is carried out according to the rules, cladding the surface of the pediment will not be difficult, and the resulting cladding will last for many years.

Arrangement of gables is an important event when performing roofing works. There are many options for finishing gables various materials. Over the past decade, gable siding has become frequently used in residential buildings due to its relative cheapness and exceptional practicality. But besides the pleasant appearance and design, facing material The pediment must be strong, durable, and not lose shape and color over time.

According to manufacturing technology, they distinguish the following types siding:

  • wood;
  • vinyl;
  • steel;
  • cement.

Vinyl siding is the most widespread. Based on the type of installation and fastening of the facing strips, a distinction is made between horizontal and vertical installation of panels. Vertical installation is used in non-residential types of premises such as: industrial building, various cafes, shopping pavilions, car washes. Horizontal installation the most common among residential buildings.

Advantages and disadvantages of vinyl siding

The popularity of vinyl siding is due to obvious advantages:


TO negative aspects can be attributed:

  • inability to withstand strong blows, after which noticeable dents and damage remain;
  • the ability to maintain a flame for some time, so lighting a fire near the material is prohibited;
  • mandatory use of gaps between planks during installation. If this is not done, the slats will swell due to temperature changes.

Considering that the disadvantages can be reduced to zero with basic compliance with installation and safety rules, the use of vinyl siding for finishing the gable is a profitable undertaking today.

Types of siding elements

Before covering the pediment with siding, you need to understand what components and additional elements it consists of.

The front plank can have different form factors and imitation for different cladding materials: herringbone, shiplap, solid lining, scale, shingles, log and lumber walls.

Additional panels (accessories) are used to attach row panels and complete cladding of the gable part. various forms and purpose: starting and finishing profiles, H and J - profiles, external and internal corners, window trims. Also used decorative overlays, moldings, soffits, etc.

You need to know that the sizes general details at different manufacturers are different. Therefore, it is necessary to use additional elements from the same manufacturer as the ordinary panels.

The initial profile is used to fasten the bottom of the row panel; it is from this that the installation of siding begins. J - profile (jay - profile, J - channel) is used to close row panels from the side. H - profile is necessary for joining along the length of row panels. Window and door openings are framed using J-profiles with an increased size. Internal and external corners are necessary for hiding the end edges of siding panels, as well as for mating wall sheathing located in perpendicular planes. When fixing a row panel cut to height, use a finishing profile. The ceilings are hemmed with soffits - special siding panels that are made with perforations for roof ventilation.


Rules for installing vinyl siding

When installing vinyl panels, it is necessary to take into account the coefficient of thermal expansion. Eg, ordinary panel about 3 meters long, installed at a temperature of 5°C, can lengthen by 10-12 mm in the summer. Therefore, siding panels and additional elements must be attached in such a way that nothing interferes with their movement in winter and summer. It follows that when expanding (in summer), the siding should not rest against anything, and when contracting (in winter), nothing should hold it back. If this is not taken into account during installation, then in the summer the panels will lengthen, and it will rise and move like a wave, and in the winter it will simply burst. The elongated oval holes on the mounting flange of the siding panel are used for fastening to metal or wooden sheathing. Fixation occurs using nails, screws or staples.


The fasteners must be located in the center of the fastening holes; only in this case will the siding panel be able to move within the boundaries of the fastening grooves during compression and expansion. It becomes obvious that when incorrect installation, at least one or two fasteners, the siding will be deprived of the possibility of linear movement.

When installing fasteners, you do not need to strongly attract the panels to the sheathing - otherwise there will be no possibility of thermal compression - expansion!

The fastening must be slightly loosened by unscrewing the self-tapping screw half a turn, after tightening it, or slightly loosen the nail by 1-1.5 mm. Tensioning the siding during installation is also not allowed due to stopping thermal expansion and contraction. After securing the panel into the lock, it should be screwed to the sheathing in a free state, without applying force to it.


To ensure that the fasteners always fall on the center of the holes, it is necessary to use laths 60 mm wide. If narrower laths are used, the fasteners may no longer be centered in the flange hole. Then the hole is lengthened using a drill, cutter or other available means. The laths are installed at a distance of 400 mm under normal conditions; accordingly, the fastening pitch is also 400 mm. In areas with strong winds, the pitch is reduced to 200 mm and a vinyl washer is installed under the mounting head.

If vertical siding is used, then the method of attaching panels and elements is slightly different. When fixing the panel, the first fastener is installed at the top of the flange hole - there is no other way to hang it. The rest of the fastenings are the same as in horizontal siding, should fall on the centers of the holes. When joining horizontal panels with vertical ones, a mandatory gap of 6 mm must be observed. This gap size is arbitrary and implies installation of panels at an ambient temperature of 15-25°C. Thus, if installation occurs in winter, leave a gap of more than 6 mm, and if in summer, leave less than 6 mm.

Tools and preparatory work before installation

To install siding on a gable, you will need the following tools: tin snips (fine-toothed), hammer, pliers, drill, metal square, hydraulic level, tape measure, stationery knife, screwdriver, nails and screws, plumb line.

Before installing siding, it is necessary to build reliable scaffolding. The surface on which the elements of the siding panels will be attached must be absolutely flat and not have unnecessary protruding elements - shutters, trim, lamps, etc.

When arranging the sheathing, use dry wood with a moisture content of no more than 12-15%, otherwise, when it dries, the sheathing will collapse, and along with it the siding panels!

The bars are taken in sizes 25,30,40,50x60 mm, pre-treated with fire retardants and antiseptics. Also, galvanized plasterboard profiles of the same width can be used as the base of the lathing. The sheathing bars are fastened together at a distance of 200-400 mm.

Installation of siding panels and additional elements

Finishing the gable with siding begins with installing the starting strip. When installing it, you need to pay attention Special attention accuracy of horizontal position. The slightest distortion during installation will affect the evenness of the row siding panels as a whole, be careful. If several starting strips are used, then a gap of 10-12 mm must be left between them.

Next, the internal corner strips or J-profile are installed. If there is not enough length for the entire gable overhang, they are joined with an overlap of 25 mm, leaving a gap of at least 9 mm between the nail fastening flanges.


From below and from above, the corner strips are cut with a knife at the required angle and joined together.


Installation of ordinary siding panels begins from the back of the facade of the house, this makes it easier to get the hang of it and gain the necessary skills. If it is necessary to join row panels along the length, then they are connected using H - strips or overlaps. When joining with an overlap, the nail and lock parts are cut so that the overlap of the planks is 25 mm.


The edges of the siding panels are cut at the required angle so that they can easily fit into the gutter of the receiving profiles. The topmost row panel is secured with a stainless nail.