Telegram joinery dovetail joint. Corner dovetail joints

Wooden and veneered furniture, as well as other furniture assembled from individual structural elements, made from solid wood, unfortunately, cannot last indefinitely. And this is quite understandable. In addition to natural aging and various “diseases” of wood, there are loose adhesive joints, traces of careless storage, unskilled repairs, restoration, and others. Most often, furniture is received for restoration with weakened strength of the structural connections of individual elements, in particular tenon connections.

1.1. Strengthening socket-tenon and dovetail joints

It should be noted that over the past two centuries, furniture has been assembled using various tenon joints. The most commonly used joints were socket-tenon joints or similar hidden joints that used wooden dowels (rods). Such joints hold the base of the frame of many tables, armchairs, chairs, sofas and others. furniture products. This position remains unchanged in the practice of restoration of structural elements made from solid wood to this day.

The socket-tenon connection is a rectangular version of the structural furniture assembly and has two main connection methods. The first, when the socket with a ledge and the spike are one end wooden element cut and adjusted to fit into a slot cut into another element. In another method, the tenon is located at the same level on one side of the flat frame of a furniture part, for example a table drawer.

Rice. 1. Dovetail connection

The dovetail connection (Fig. 1) is a complicated version of the socket-tenon connection. The spikes should fit tightly into swallow-tail shaped sockets, which enhance the strength of the connection; They are separated only in one direction.

“Dovetail”, as well as “tenon”, are used to connect two wooden flat elements converging at right angles, for example in drawers tables, cabinets and other products.

Rice. 2. Strengthening the dovetail joint with inserts

Rice. 3. Strengthening the “socket-tenon” connection with inserts

With a rod (initial) connection, one structural element (part) of furniture, with a dowel glued into the socket, is inserted into the socket on the second element with pre-applied wood glue.

Strengthening the dovetail and socket-tenon joints is shown in Fig. 2 and 3 respectively.

IN wooden chairs, armchairs, sofas have many joints, more than in other types of furniture. The connections discussed above must withstand significant loads, although sooner or later in any furniture they weaken or completely collapse. One weakened connection leads to an increase in the load on healthy connections, so the weakened one must be strengthened - and the sooner the better.

In cases where disassembling furniture is undesirable, but tenon joints it is greatly weakened, the adhesive joints are strengthened by injecting liquid fresh wood glue using a medical syringe and left until the glue dries completely. The gluing area is fixed with clamps.

If it is necessary to ensure increased strength of the joints, then the structure of the furniture frame is strengthened with additional parts: cut plates from ordinary multi-layer birch plywood, glued with hot wood glue inside the frame and secured with screws; wooden bosses, also glued in internal corners tsar belt of chairs, armchairs, tables; wooden dowels, which are driven with tension and glue into the holes drilled in the tenon joints.

At restoration work When the tenon joints are disassembled, the tenons are cleaned of old glue. To remove glue from the surface of the tenon, use a knife, scraper, or coarse sandpaper. You need to hold the knife almost perpendicular to the wood of the tenon, applying force on the blade so as to remove the dried glue without pressing the knife into the wood. The socket is cleared of old glue using a chisel by scraping, while it is slightly expanded to create space for the expanded tenon due to an additional lining of a thin veneer sheet. This will provide increased strength to the connection when new gluing occurs. In addition, if there is a gap in the socket-tenon connection, then a wedge is sometimes added for a tight fit, and in some cases, for greater fastening, a beveled key is driven into the edge of the connection.

If the tenon has a crack, then it is sawed through with a tenon saw and a slightly beveled wedge is inserted into the cut.

If a spike is destroyed, it is replaced with a new one. To do this, in place of the old tenon, use a chisel to make a nest 2-3 cm deep, into which a new tenon is glued.

After eliminating all defects on the parts and checking the fit of the tenons and sockets, the tenon joints are again glued together with wood glue. To do this, glue is applied to the tenons, dowels and spacers, as well as into the sockets. After assembly, placing the tenon in the socket, tighten the tenon joints with a clamping device and hold them until the glue dries completely.

1.2. Strengthening tongue and tongue joints

A “tongue and tongue” connection (Fig. 4) is used in the case when the connected places of structural elements have rectangular shape, for example, two folding boards.

Rice. 4. Tongue and tongue connection

This connection is weakened as a result of the simultaneous shrinkage of the tongue of the furniture element and the tongue in thickness. The thickness of the ridge is restored on both sides with thin veneer spacers. If the ridge has cracks or is broken, then it is cut off with a plane. In its place, a recess is made, that is, a tongue of the same width and depth as the board being attached. The boards are held together on a tenon. The insert tenon is glued into the groove, and the direction of its fibers should be perpendicular to the direction of the fibers of the parts being connected. The tongue-and-groove can be made from plain birch plywood with a thickness of at least 5 mm, if the connecting ribs of the tongue are of sufficient thickness.

1.3. Strengthening connections on dowels

Dowels are widely used to connect individual elements round section(Fig. 5). For example, a dowel is used to connect two broken parts of a chair leg or armchair. The sockets for the dowel are drilled with a drill required diameter. The dowel is not necessarily made from the same material as the furniture. The best dowels made from beech, which is less brittle than oak. The dowel should penetrate deeply (up to 5-6 cm) into the parts being connected.

Rice. 5. Dowel connection

1.4. Strengthening joints on a “smooth fugue”

The connection of boards to a smooth reveal (Fig. 6), weakened as a result of warping of the boards and shrinkage, is strengthened with transverse dowels of a trapezoidal or rectangular cross-section.

Rice. 6. Joint with a “smooth fugue”

They are inserted into grooves made on the inner (non-facial) side of the part. The dimensions of the dowel groove for thin boards should be at least half their thickness. Glue the boards along the edges and glue the dowels at the same time. To do this, after applying the glue, the bonded boards are placed face down on a dense and even backing board, the dowels are inserted and placed under the press. At the same time, use a clamp to compress the boards from the edges. This eliminates minor warping of the overall surface.

Strengthening joints on a smooth fugue can be done with inserts in the form of a dovetail tenon (Fig. 7) - this is a traditional method.

Rice. 7. Strengthening joints with a dovetail tenon

The “swallowtail,” sometimes called “butterflies” by restorers, is an insert in the shape of double spikes. After the parts of the boards are connected, grooves are cut into the wood about a third of its thickness according to the shape of the insert, into which they should fit tightly. Inserts are made from the same type of wood as the exhibit, or from durable wood(oak, beech); their fibers must be perpendicular to the direction of the fibers of the edges being joined. The dovetail should be wide enough at the bridge (in the center). Due to its shape, this insert provides a strong connection, but some restorers consider it insufficient.

1.5. Strengthening the “mustache” connections

Restorers quite often encounter miter joints of furniture elements (Fig. 8), which consist of superimposing one element on top of another in an inclined cut. The parts to be connected should, if possible, have maximum surface contact, then the reliability of gluing will be greatest. The glued place is reinforced with dowels or insert tenons.

Rice. 8. Strengthening the “mustache” connections

1.6. Strengthening joints with “crackers”

This method of strengthening furniture structural elements and their connections is used in cases where the furniture cannot be dismantled. Strengthening can be done using connecting pads of any shape (Fig. 9).

To seal a crack from the inside and prevent it from spreading, you can use a pad to secure the connected area vertically and horizontally. The overlays are made from wood of the same species as the exhibit itself. When gluing them onto a crack, it is necessary that the fibers of the pads be perpendicular to the fibers of the parts being connected. Often the cracks being glued are not straight, then it is preferable to make not one overlay, but several smaller ones next to each other. After covering them with good wood glue, if possible, they are tightened with screws. The advantage of this strengthening of connections is that the pads can be removed if necessary.

One of the types of overlays are “crackers”, which strengthen the connections between the drawer and the leg. Some restorers object to the use of “crackers”, considering them irrational. They prefer to dismantle the furniture and redo the drawer with a new internal connection. In this case, the principle of maximum preservation of the original is violated. In addition, sometimes it is harmful to remove the upholstery and then dismantle the exhibit. “Rusks” compensate for the “fatigue” of the wood of the drawer, caused by numerous re-upholstery. “Rusks” are especially useful when the bars of the seat frame are curved and have longitudinal cracks.

“Crusks” are made from soft, well-adhesive wood (linden, poplar). Their height should be equal to the height of the king. They are given a concave line from the inside, because this shape makes it easier to upholster and final fasten at the corners of the drawer-leg connection. The “crackers” are installed after the leg is secured. If they fit well and are glued, then there is no particular need to screw them in with screws. But some restorers, nevertheless, press the “crackers” with clamps during gluing, and after gluing, screw in screws. It is unacceptable to use nails.

Rice. 9. Strengthening joints with “crackers”

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DOVE-TAIL JOINTS

Dovetail joints are not only visually attractive, but also very durable. The ability to cut such tenons correctly is a sign of skill that comes with experience.

When assembling furniture, fasteners are now widely used - screws, dowels, and various ties. However, tenon joints, including those on dovetail tenons, do not completely give up their positions. They are quite reliable and at the same time beautiful. Such joints can be used to fasten, for example, the side walls of cabinet furniture with lids. It is not easy to break a dovetail joint by tension. Therefore, it is often used in the manufacture of drawers. But we should not forget that the dovetail connection is resistant to such a load only in one direction.

Chipboard parts are not suitable for dovetail joints: this material is too loose. To one degree or another, plywood, boards or furniture panels are suitable here.

Dovetail spike shape

If you look at the connection from above, you can clearly see that the “dovetails” are fan-shaped spikes at the end of one of the parts. The sides of the spikes are beveled inward with a slope ranging from 1:5 - for “rough” ones, but strong connections, used when joining parts made of soft wood and furniture panels, up to 1:8 - for parts made of hard wood. The connection on the latter looks more attractive. And you need to know that with a smaller slope, the connection may come apart under load, and with a larger slope, the tenons may break.

In the finished connection, the “teeth” that engage with the spikes are clearly visible. The slope of the spikes must exactly match the slope of the “teeth”.

The joint should always have “teeth” at the edges (not halves of tenons) -

this prevents bulging of the parts being connected.

Another factor influencing appearance connections, - the distance between the dovetails. In principle, the following rule applies: the wider the dovetails (spikes) or the greater the distance between them, the better. However, there is a limit to everything, besides, products come in different sizes (for example, a chest and a casket), and we should not forget about the strength of the connection.

Marking the studs

The preparation of parts begins with trimming (in this case, their thickness does not have to match), and then marking
position of the spines and “teeth”. It is better for a novice master to give a small (1-2 mm) allowance in length.

For marking, use a small marker. To adjust it to the inclination angle of the studs, for example 1:6, draw two mutually perpendicular lines on paper and divide them into six from the intersection point equal parts. Connect the sixth mark on one line with the first mark on the other. The slope of the resulting diagonal will be equal to 1:6. Based on this sketch, the fry is displayed.

At both edges, parts with spikes mark the width of the outer “teeth” and draw lines parallel to the edges through these points. Further onto the part diagonally
Apply a tape measure or ruler and turn it until the size between the lines is divided without a remainder by the desired number of spikes. These points are marked on the diagonal, and then, using a thicknesser, they are transferred to the end of the part. As a result of these simple constructions, the positions of the centers of the spaces between the spikes were determined.

The same length is laid on both sides of the found centers (in our example - 3 mm). The distance between the ends of the segments will be equal to the minimum gap between the tenons. From these points, with the help of a small mark, the spikes themselves are finally marked. The height of the spikes is marked with a surface planer placed on a thick

the part with the “teeth”. Markings are made on both sides of the part.

If the part has an allowance in length, it should be taken into account when marking. In this case, the length of the spikes will be slightly longer than required. Later, when the parts are connected, the excess is removed with an end plane.

When marking, all parts with spikes are marked with some conventional signs to avoid confusion.

Tenon cutting

Special tenon saws are used to cut tenons and “teeth”. When using a regular fine-tooth saw to rip sawing it will need to be additionally prepared, in particular, to reduce the spread of the teeth (especially if the saw is new). For this saw blade Place the entire surface on the whetstone and lightly pass it over it once or twice. The same thing is repeated, turning the canvas over to the other side.

When cutting dovetail tenons, the part is clamped in a vice. If there are two such parts (for example, the side walls of a drawer), tenons can be cut on both at once.

Start cutting along the marking lines by tilting the saw back and at the same time guiding it with your thumbnail. When the cutting line is “caught”, the saw is leveled and work continues until the part is cut to the full height of the tenon (to the horizontal mark). Under no circumstances should you cross this mark.

Now you can remove the material between the cuts that form the tenons. This operation is performed with a chisel. Having selected the wood from one side to half the thickness of the part, it is turned over and processed in the same way on the other side.

Next, they begin cutting the “teeth”. The part with the “teeth” is clamped in a vice, the part with sawn tenons is placed on the end and fixed. Then the saw is inserted into the cuts and the end part of the part with the “teeth” is cut. Finally, the “teeth” are cut in the same way as the “dovetails”. And in this case, you should not cut along the marked line, but so that the saw teeth lightly touch it from the outside. Finally, the material between the “teeth” is removed with a chisel.

Before joining the parts, it is necessary to remove any possible irregularities and carefully chamfer the inner edge on both sides of each tenon (especially on the outer ones). This will make it easier to connect the parts, and such a bevel will not be noticeable in the finished product.

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FINGER CONNECTIONS

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Dovetail connections to the lock can be made different ways. Some craftsmen are attracted by the decorative nature of a repeating pattern. Performing all varieties of Dovetail is a most interesting task for any woodworker.

Through dovetail connection

The through dovetail is a traditional connection for joining the ends of solid wood boards. It is widely used in drawer designs and furniture making. For the machine production of such connections, electric milling machines and special devices are used.

Marking the studs

Set the cutting thicknesser to the thickness of the wood.

Draw a line of tenon shoulders (“TAILS”) around the end of the tenon piece along all of its faces and on the sides of the socket piece. Where risks from a thicknesser can further spoil the appearance finished product, use a sharpened pencil and a square.

Then mark the nests (or partitions between them). Size and quantity may vary depending on the width of the boards and the type of wood (softwoods require larger and less spaced tenons than hardwoods). The appearance of the finished connection can be no less varied. As a rough guide, to give the product a good appearance, the spikes should be the same size and evenly spaced, but wider than the partitions between the sockets.

Start by drawing a pencil line across the end of the workpiece at a distance of 6 mm from each edge, then divide and mark the distance between them into an even number of equal parts. Set aside 3 mm on each side of the marks and draw lines across the end.

Mark the slope of the tenons on the front side using a dovetail marker or stencil. Mark the excess to avoid any confusion later.

Cutting out the thorns

Position the workpiece so that one side of each tenon is pointing vertically. Using a reward, cut out one of the side vertical edges of each tenon. Stay close to the marking line on the take-off side and take care not to cut past the shoulder line.

After reinstalling the workpiece in the vice, cut out other side faces thorns Place the part horizontally in the vise and cut off the side waste along the shoulder line. Remove most of the excess wood between the tenons with an openwork saw.

Cut off the remainder with a chisel or chisel with an oblique cutting edge, working from both sides to the middle to the line of the shoulders.

Marking nests

Rub the end of the prepared workpiece with chalk and place it vertically in a vice. Place the cut tenon piece in place, making sure the faces of the joint pieces match. Carefully line up the edges and shoulder line of the tenons on the chalked end and mark out the shape of the tenons using a scriber or knife, then continue the lines to the shoulders on each side of the socket blank. Use a pencil to mark the excess.

Cutting nests

Place the workpiece vertically in a vice. Saw to the shoulder line at the angles marked along the tenons. Make a cut in the waste part so that it just touches the marking line. Remove the main part of the waste between the partitions of the nests with an openwork saw, cut the rest evenly to the line of the shoulders with a chisel or chisel with a beveled cutting edge. Work from both sides towards the center. Clean the corners by holding the cutter under the angle of the inner edges of the sockets.

Connection assembly

Dovetail joints are manufactured very precisely and only need to be completely assembled once. To check the fit of the parts, assemble the product piece by piece dry (without glue) and carefully cut off the excess in places that are too tight. Clean the insides of the pieces before gluing.

Apply glue to both halves of the joint and, using a hammer and a piece of wood to protect the surface of the product, connect the parts tightly. If you are working with a wide joint, tap across the entire width to connect the elements evenly. Remove excess glue before it hardens. When the glue has dried, sand the piece with a jointer, working from the edges to the middle so as not to chip off the end layers.

Angles in dovetail

The angle of the dovetail should be neither too steep nor too sloping. Too much dovetail draft creates weak short grain at the corners, while insufficient draft can reduce the bond strength of the joint. On a piece of wood, mark the bevel and install the mortar along it, or use a stencil or template. For hardwoods the slope should be 1/8, and for softwood it should be 1/6.

Decorative dovetail through-hole

Elegant and neatly executed through connections are pleasing to the eye and are often used in furniture designs. Decorative options are used to highlight this property and demonstrate the skill of the craftsman.

The connection design corresponds basic principles proportions and disproportions of connection elements. The example shown here uses thinner than normal baffles.

Marking the studs

Along the entire perimeter of the end of the workpiece with spikes, draw a line for marking the shoulders with a pencil or very lightly with a thicknesser.

Continue the lines to the end and mark the excess.

Cutting out the thorns

Select the waste in the same way as for regular through-and-through dovetail joints, using a tenon and trace saw. Clean up with a chisel or chisel with an oblique cutting edge, working from the ends to the middle.

Marking nests

Rub the end of the part with the sockets with chalk. Using a cutting thicknesser solution equal to the length (height) of the small tenons, mark the line of thickness of the small partitions between the sockets at the end. Mark the partitions along the parts with tenons using the tip of a saw or scriber. Continue the lines to the shoulder line on each side and mark the excess.

Cutting nests

Remove the bulk of the waste with a tenoning saw and an openwork saw and trim the shoulders with a chisel or chisel. To cut small partitions to size, press the piece on a flat board against a workbench or work table.

Make a cut across the grain near the shoulder line. Mark the ends of the tenons. Carefully cut off excess, working along the grain. Then repeat the operation and stop at the shoulder marking line (thickness gauge) and the thickness line. Apply glue and assemble the joint as you would a regular dovetail through lock.

Through-joint dovetail with bevel

Sometimes a through dovetail lock is combined with a corner connection with bevels, so that a chamfer with a shaped profile can be made on the edge.

The depth of the beveled part depends on the chamfer profile.

Marking the studs

Using a thicknesser, mark a shoulder line on both sides and the bottom edge of the tenoned piece. Mark a bevel line on the top edge. Measure from the top of the end the depth required for the chamfer. Draw a line along the mark across the end and around to the shoulder line. Make a faint pencil mark 6mm from the first mark and also 6mm above the bottom edge. Distribute required amount spikes between these marks. Mark the excess.

Cutting out the thorns

Saw through the sides of the tenons and along the chamfer depth line and remove the waste with an openwork saw. Trim the shoulder with a chisel or chisel with a beveled cutting edge. Leave the excess on the bevel for now.

Marking nests

Using a thicknesser, draw a light line of shoulders on both sides of the socket piece. Mark a bevel line on the top edge. Rub the end with chalk and mark the nests (partitions) and bevel waste along the workpiece with spikes. Draw tenon lines on the end and along the sides to the shoulder line, and to the bevel line - only on the inside. Mark the excess.

Through connection with rebate in dovetail lock

Making a box using a dovetail joint, which has a bottom inserted into a rebate along the bottom edge of the walls, requires some modification of this corner joint to avoid gaps in the lower corners. This is achieved by shifting the position of the shoulder of the tenon, which closes this gap.

Marking the studs

Using a thicknesser, draw a line for marking the shoulders on the sides and across the top edge. Also, using the frame, draw a line for the depth of the fold along the inner edge, across the end and along the front side to the line of the shoulders. Mark inner side parts with sockets with the same thickness planer setting.

Reinstall the thicknesser if necessary and mark the width of the rebate on the edges of both parts of the joint. Make one pencil mark on the tenon piece 6mm below the planned rebate depth, and another 6mm from the opposite edge. Between these marks, mark the position of the spikes. Draw a line across the edge of the intended bevel on the tenon part to match the rebate on the socket part, and mark the waste.

Marking nests

Using a thicknesser, draw a line of shoulders on both sides of the part with sockets. Rub the end with chalk and mark the sockets along the part with spikes using a scriber or a sharpened pencil. Mark the excess.

Dovetail joint with bevel

This dovetail design is completely hidden by the bevel and is often called a hidden dovetail or hidden lock. This connection is used for delicate work and requires careful and careful execution. The parts to be joined must be of the same thickness and cut to length. The spikes can only be marked along the sockets, which are cut out first. Marking and cutting grooves Set the cutting thicknesser to the thickness of the workpiece and mark a line of shoulders across the inside, working from the end.

Using a marking knife and chalkboard, mark a bevel on each edge between the thicknesser line and outer corner. Set the thicknesser to the width of the overlap and mark the fold.

Mark the end from outside, and the rebate depth line from the end. File off any excess seam and level the surface with a shoulder plane. Start marking the nests by drawing a line with a thicknesser (parallel to each edge) from the line of the shoulders to the overlap. The distance should not exceed 6 mm from the edge.

Mark the width and position of the sockets at the end between the lines drawn with a thicknesser. Make a cardboard stencil for the dovetail and press it against the side of the overlap to keep it in place. Continue marking to the shoulder line and mark the excess with a chisel or chisel.

The saw may cut into the overlap a little. File off the excess bevel. Place the workpiece vertically and use a chisel or chisel to cut off the main part of the waste from the overlap bevel.

Trim the bevel with a shoulder plane. Use a miter fence to help guide the plane correctly.

Marking and cutting

Follow the recommendations for making a part with sockets up to and including cutting the fold. Place the spiked part on the workbench inside up. Place the part with the sockets vertically so that its inner side is flush with the marking line of the thicknesser. Use a scriber to mark the nests (with a partition). Continue the lines to the end and mark the excess.

File off the excess bevel. Then saw through the stones of the tenons and cut out the waste between the tenons and between the outer tenons and the shoulders of the bevel. Finally, trim clean and bevel the overlap like the socket piece. Test the assembly before gluing.

Angled dovetail joint

This compound is used to make rigid joints. This is not an easy task, as it is difficult to visualize, difficult to mark, and all the edges of the parts are at an angle, which requires careful cutting. The workpieces must be of the same thickness and seamed in length and width. It is necessary to make a drawing in projections, from which to calculate the dimensions of the workpieces before marking the connection.

Execution of the drawing

Start with a side view of the finished frame joint. Indicate the thickness of the wood, and the dotted line indicates the initial dimensions of the workpiece. Draw a vertical projection (plan) under the side one. Then project the side view onto a horizontal plane.

Marking and cutting ends

Cut the pieces to length and width as shown by the dotted lines in the side view. Set the jig to an X angle. Mark this angle on the inside, working from the joint angle. Saw off the ends at this angle. Place the second small piece at the corner U. Mark it on the edges, measuring from the outside.

Connect the marks on the edge to form a guide line for planing the bevel of the edge. In fact, the bevel should be checked perpendicular to the edge during the planing process to ensure the true bevel angle is obtained. With the workpiece in the vise so that the end is in a horizontal position, carefully plan the end bevel on each workpiece.

Marking and cutting connection elements

Mark the tenons on the front side of the part with the tenons. First, measure the thickness of the material on both sides of both pieces, measuring along the beveled ends. Connect lines on each edge of the tenon piece. Using a small marker applied to the end corner X, mark a line from the inner lower corner along the edge of the part with spikes.

Make marks 6mm below the top edge and 6mm above the bottom. Calculate and mark the shape and position of the tenons between these marks. Then, placing a cardboard stencil on the square, mark the tenons on the outside.

Mark the slope of the tenon ends on the sloped end of the tenon piece. Use a crowbar set at an X angle. Hold the claw block so that it is located in a parallel plane with respect to the end. Using a square and a cardboard dovetail stencil, mark the tenons on the inside. Mark the excess. Carefully cut out the tenons exactly according to the marked corners. Place the workpiece in the vise at an angle so that you can cut vertically.

Using the cut out tenons, mark the end of the part with the sockets. Rub the end with chalk so that the scriber lines are more clearly visible. Place the piece with the tenons on the end so that the edges and inner shoulders match, and draw around the tenons. Using a small tool set at an X angle, draw parallel lines from each tenon to the shoulder line. Mark the excess, then use a saw and chisel or chisel to carefully remove it according to the mark.

You can plan the slope on long edges both before and after gluing. In both cases, use a small tool set at an X angle to check. Slanted sides can create difficulties when gluing. When assembling, if you hammer a joint to fit the elements into place, use a piece of wood as a spacer to protect the parts from damage.

It is believed that the dovetail lock has maritime roots; the dovetail was used to secure ships with a wooden hull. This connection turned out to be the most resistant to wet wood and multidirectional loads caused by rough seas. The main advantage of the technology is the reliable joining of wooden parts without the use of additional fasteners; the reliability of fastening is ensured by the lock of the original trapezoidal shape. The tools of ship carpenters included a special saw called a “dovetail.”

Traditionally in Rus', the crowns of a log house were placed “in a bowl”; such coupling was cut out with an ax. With the advent of good carpentry tools, the log house began to be laid “in the paw”, the connection had a rectangular tenon. A further improvement to this lock was the use of a dovetail tenon with a trapezoidal profile.

The dovetail technology for fastening beams has become the main one in industrial housing construction; standard sizes and connection features are determined by GOST 30974-2002. The introduction of the standard created favorable conditions for the development of low-rise housing construction, domestic wooden houses industrial production The quality is not inferior to Finnish samples.

The standard establishes the types of dovetail joinery:

• Connection "in the paw";
• Deaf “frying pan”;
• Open “frying pan”;
• Fastening with a trapezoidal key.

A distinctive feature of these types of fastenings is the tongue-and-groove design, which has a trapezoidal shape with a straight base.

Fastening the timber “into the paw” is the easiest way to build a log house; reliable grip is ensured by a trapezoidal tenon, which is cut out at the end of each row of the crown. A correctly made and assembled lock reliably fixes the crowns of the log house in all planes. The fastening is universal, it is used for the construction of a log house from timber and rounded logs; the “claw” connection is most often used in shrinkage construction.

The design is distinguished by the absence of ends protruding beyond the corners of the building; such a lock is called a “clean corner”. The spike in this design is load-bearing element and bears the main load. To build a log house in a “clean corner”, it is recommended to use timber of the maximum standard sizes, with a side of at least 250 mm.

Making dovetail fasteners with your own hands is quite difficult; to avoid mistakes, use a full-size dovetail tenon template for timber; the sample can be cut out of tin or thick paper. The template is applied to the end and outlined, the boundaries of the cuts are marked with a hammer and chisel. The cuts are made by hand circular saw. The easiest way is to make inclined cuts every 10-15 mm, squeeze out the trim with an ax and clean it with a chisel.

The advantage of the technology is the ability to work with lumber natural humidity, in this case the tenon is made with an allowance of 5-7%. The allowance will lead to the formation of gaps between the rims, which will be eliminated naturally during the shrinkage process.

Disadvantages and features of dovetail joints:

• A “clean corner” has through gaps that can expand over time;
• The log house does not have closed crowns, the masonry on each wall is shifted by half a beam, the structure must be reinforced with dowels;
• The corners of the building have an unpresentable appearance and do not decorate the facade;
• The developer is limited in choosing the standard size of lumber.

According to the technology, a dovetail log house is built country houses economy class, bathhouses and outbuildings, such construction is low-cost and accessible to mass developers.

Blind frying pan

This method in construction practice makes it possible to fully use the advantages of trapezoidal fastening; a special feature is the hidden T-shaped groove-tenon connection. The size of the tenon does not exceed half a beam and is completely recessed into the body of the beam. The corner of the house assembled using this technology was called “ warm corner" The lock provides reliable adhesion to the crown without through gaps; when treated with construction sealant, it creates a completely sealed space. The beam is built up in the same way if its length is less than the length of the wall.

Sawing of the profile is carried out according to the drawing using a circular and axing saw. A rectangular blank for the tenon and groove is cut out using a circular saw, and the given shape is given with a special hand saw. For cutting a groove you can use hand cutter, workplace easy to equip yourself.

Advantages of the blind “frying pan” fastening technology:

• Improved thermal insulation of the building;
• You can use lumber of any size;
• The castle is “hidden”, the facade takes on an attractive appearance;
• During construction, you can use timber with a smaller profile;
• Ensures economical use of building materials.

The main feature is the increased requirement for wood moisture content - lumber should have a moisture content of no more than 20%. The technology is widely used by manufacturers finished houses"Full construction".

Open frying pan

This method is used in the construction internal partitions from timber, laying floor joists and ceilings. The groove is cut across the entire width of the beam. The lock resembles a “claw” connection in the T-shaped version and ensures fixation of the structure in the horizontal plane. This mount is simple and can be cut with a circular saw and processed with a chisel.

A simplified version of a frying pan lock is a profile in the shape rectangular trapezoid, the fastener is called a half-frying pan. This fastening is designed for damper wood and is popular with individual developers.

Fastening with trapezoidal key

The dovetail connection scheme was further developed in a keyed connection. A butterfly dowel formed by two trapezoidal shapes is made from hardwood. The groove is cut on modern milling machines. U key connection in a dovetail, the mounting dimensions are minimized, but this design provides reliable fastening wooden structures of any complexity, allows you to put the production of wood products on stream.

Features of keyway technology:

• Requires precise wood processing using modern technology and devices;
• Minimizes resource and material consumption;
• Maintains an attractive appearance of wood texture;
• Allows you to make wooden structures of any complexity.

Dowel fastening is used by manufacturers of ready-made wooden houses made of expensive laminated veneer lumber and allows you to implement the most complex house designs.

Conclusion

Dovetail joints of timber in house construction are a reliable way of fastening wooden parts. With the advent of modern carpentry tools, this technology has become available for mass use. This fastening is widely used in interior design and the manufacture of small architectural forms. In a miniature version, such fasteners are used in furniture production.

In carpentry there are quite a few a large number of connecting parts to each other. One of them is the dovetail. This type of connection can be seen on drawers, chairs and other structures. It is one of the reliable connections. The grooves are made in such a way that if you try to break the connection, they will rest against each other. In order to make a dovetail with your own hands, you will need a minimum of tools and a little experience in carpentry.

Connection types

Depending on the task at hand, dovetailing can be performed in various ways:

• Corner connections.
• Separating.
• Through.
• Decorative.
• Bevel connection.
• Through connection with rebate.

All types of connections have their own strengths and weak sides, but, one way or another, they form reliable connection two parts. To work you will need the following tools:

With these tools, you can easily make the connection. If it is possible to use, then there is no need for the listed tools.

Through connection type

This type of connection is widely used in the manufacture of both housing and upholstered furniture. It is also called “box”.

To begin with, the workpiece must be processed with a plane and excess wood removed. The next step will be marking the nests. Everything here is individual and depends on the width of the board, as well as on the tasks assigned. It is necessary to draw lines across the workpiece at a distance of 6 mm from both edges. Then you need to divide the distance between them into an even amount, set aside 3 mm on each side and draw lines across the end.

Now you need to mark the slope of the spikes with a small marker. The excess that remains should be marked to avoid confusion in the future.

After marking, you can begin cutting out the tenons. This can be done using a jigsaw or regular saw with small teeth. For convenience, the workpiece can be clamped in a vice. Using a saw, you need to cut out one edge on each side of the tenon. You should cut out carefully, otherwise there will be small gaps that will further spoil the appearance. The same must be done with the other side spikes.

The side waste should be cut off from the shoulder line, and excess wood between the tenons can be easily removed with an openwork saw. Residue on both sides can be removed with a chisel or beveled chisel.

The cutting of the tenons is completed, and you can begin marking and cutting out the nests. Using the same vice, clamp the workpiece. The part with spikes must be attached to the workpiece and carefully mark the shape of the spikes.

After marking, carefully cut out the nests along the previously drawn lines. The cut from the main part should be made in such a way that it does not reach the marking line slightly. Carefully cut off part of the waste with an openwork saw. In order for the two parts to fit tightly together, it is necessary to clean the corners with a cutter.

When the two connections are ready, you can start joining them. It must be remembered that the connection is assembled only once. Before gluing the parts, you need to make sure that they fit tightly together. If there are any irregularities, they must be removed before gluing.

If everything fits tightly, then the following manipulations should be performed:

• Two blanks need to be coated with glue, then connected to each other.
• Tapping with a wooden hammer, adjust the two parts. Excess glue must be removed. Otherwise, after drying, the appearance will be ruined.
• After drying, the gluing area is sanded on both sides.
• Then check the angle, which should be 1/8 for hardwood and 1/6 for softwood. If the angle is too large, short fiber will be formed, which may affect the strength of the connection.

All these points also apply to other connection modifications. And they should be performed in the same sequence.

Decorative variety

This type of connection is used in places where beauty is needed. This connection also emphasizes the art of the master. In order to give decorative look thin partitions are used. At the end of the workpiece, carefully apply a line for marking the shoulder pads. Continue the marking line to the end and mark the excess. When cutting tenons, waste must be removed in the same way as for through joints. Stripping must be done from the ends to the middle.

Before fixing, the workpiece must be coated with chalk for a more rigid fixation. At the end you need to mark the distance between the small partitions, then continue all the lines of the tenons to the line of the shoulder pads, you must not forget about removing the excess. Most of the waste can be removed using a tenon cutter, and the shoulder pads are best trimmed with an openwork saw. To cut out small partitions, you need to press the workpiece firmly.

Using slow movements along the grain, make a cross cut near the shoulder line. The operations should be repeated. After these manipulations, apply glue and fasten both surfaces together.

Bevel connection

In some cases it is necessary to combine two types of connection. The depth of the cut in such cases depends on the profile and chamfer.

Using a thicknesser, mark the line of the shoulder pads on both sides. Apply a bevel line on the top edge. At the bottom of the workpiece, you need to mark a certain depth for the chamfer. Draw a line across the end and up to the line of the shoulder pads. From the first mark, put another line 6 mm long. Do the same with the bottom edge. Mark on the resulting marks required quantity thorns Mark the remaining excess.

Cut the tenons with a jigsaw and fit with a fine sandpaper. In this option, the excess is temporarily left. Apply a line of shoulder pads on both sides. Make a small mark on the top edge of the bevel line. Mark the tenon sockets on the workpiece and mark the bevel on the lower part. After finishing the manipulations, remove all excess.

Seam connection

Quite often used in the manufacture of tables and chairs. At the bottom of the box, a special selection is made, which is called a “fold,” and the bottom of the box is inserted into it. During such a connection, gaps may appear in the corners, which can be eliminated by moving the shoulder pad.

The markup is slightly different from previous versions. On the sides you need to draw a line along which you can determine the depth of the rebate. The inner side is marked using the same thickness planer parameters. Below the rebate depth, mark 6 mm, and place the next mark from the opposite edge. On the resulting marks, mark the desired location of the spikes. Draw a line across the chamfered edge, but it must completely correspond to the marked fold.

Marking the nests is done in exactly the same way as in the previous versions, using a ready-made blank with spikes and drawing supplies.

Another variation of this connection is the bevel connection. In it, the entire connection is hidden by a bevel, which adds beauty to the product. Before assembling, the workpieces must be adjusted to the required size. It should be remembered that the nests must be made first, and then the thorns. Marking the tenons is carried out identically to the other option, but with one nuance: between the thicknesser line and the outer corner, using a special scriber and chalk, you should mark a bevel on each of the edges.

Make sure that there is no more than 6 mm from the shoulder line to the overlap. At the end between the drawn lines you need to mark the width and position of the sockets. For convenience, you can make a ready-made stencil from plywood, press it against the side walls and continue the marking line, after which all excess is removed. Before gluing two joints, you need to test them. If there are defects, remove them with a chisel and sandpaper.

Inclined docking

Mainly used for large parts. In terms of difficulty, it ranks first. In order to make a tenon and groove with your own hands in this type of connection, it will take much more time. The complexity of manufacturing is associated with the peculiarity of the connection, in which all the edges are located at a certain angle. Before marking, the boards must be adjusted to the same width. A drawing for a dovetail connection will greatly facilitate the task.

The drawing should begin with a lateral projection, and it is also necessary to indicate the thickness and dimensions. As for the vertical projection, it can be drawn, just like the lateral one. Use the same method to design the side view. The picture shows a drawing swallowtail, the dimensions of which are a certain standard.

The next step is to cut the piece to length and width. Place a small tool on point X and transfer this angle to the inside. Saw off the remaining ends. Place another small piece on the U corner and place it on the edges. Now we need guide lines, which can be obtained by connecting the marks on the edge.

Carefully trim off the end bevel. Parts with spikes should be marked on the front side. You need to measure the size of the material using the beveled ends. Apply a small tool to point X and mark a line along the edge of the parts. Place 6mm notches on the top and bottom edges. The position of the studs can be calculated from these marks.

The slope of the tenons must be marked on the inclined end of the parts. For convenience, you can use a small spoon. Using a stencil and a square, mark the spikes. Mark the remaining excess. When cutting out tenons, you need to rely on the previously marked corners, after which you can draw and cut out the nests using the finished workpiece.

All excess is carefully removed at the end of the work. If for some reason the slope is not satisfactory, then it can be trimmed after gluing or cleaned with a grinder. If you have to hammer out the joints with a mallet, you need to place a piece of a block, otherwise marks may remain.

Manual frezer

If you constantly have to deal with such compounds and produce them in large quantities, then manual method won't do. There are stationary machines that, using a special cutter, can make a certain number of spikes or “tails” in one pass. To save even more time, you can make templates. To create tenons and tails, you must have a cutter.

Before milling, the workpiece should be placed vertically for convenience. Before this, you need to mark the number of tails. When milling, waste will be generated, which can be easily removed with a router.

You can purchase templates at the market or in a store, with the help of which things will go even faster. You need to attach and fix the device to the top of the workpiece. Then set the required cutting depth on the router. After milling, all connections are smooth and require virtually no adjustment.

If carpentry work is to be done and a strong and reliable connection of two parts is necessary, then the best option there will be a dovetail. In the presence of hand router even a beginner in carpentry can make tenons and tails. In addition, after assembly, such a connection looks aesthetically pleasing.