Do-it-yourself insulation of the first floor floor in a wooden house. Rules for arranging the first floor floor pie on wooden beams

Wooden log, timber, frame houses are becoming more and more in demand. There are many construction companies and teams that have accumulated extensive experience in building such houses using new materials, tools, accessories and measuring instruments. New wooden houses meet all modern housing quality requirements.

Peculiarities

Our ideas about home warmth, comfort, natural cleanliness and safety. It is clear that in terms of strength and durability a wooden house and some of its parts cannot compete with concrete, composite and other modern facilities and designs.

Comfort in the home is largely determined by the characteristics of the wooden floor:

strength, at which the elements do not bend or creak;
long-term preservation of shape and original appearance;
warm in feel;
has beauty and attractiveness.

The beauty of a wooden floor, not covered with carpet or linoleum, has its own unique feature.

Floor installation is not new to people of any generation; its technology has been developed over centuries and anyone can master the preparation of materials and carry out all the work. It is important to familiarize yourself with the work procedure, master one of the many technologies, get acquainted with the tools and devices and begin work, observing safety measures.

What to cover with?

Several types are suitable for laying rough and finished floors wood boards and plastic material. Tile and plywood materials can be used in sheathing, surface covering and in the formation of subfloors.

Plywood is one of the best finishing and construction products. These are glued sheets of veneer, located mutually perpendicular in the direction of the grain. Due to its high strength, varied colorful texture, and ease of use, plywood can be used both for subfloors and for finishing finishing. Available in sizes 1.5x1.5 meters, 1.5x3.0 meters. The thickness of the material can be from 8 to 30 mm. The cost of plywood depends on the original wood from which the veneer is obtained.

OSB – particle board. It is obtained by pressing flat wood chips impregnated with moisture-resistant resin. These plates are used for various partitions, basics for blocks with flexible tiles, for creating large packaging and in other similar cases. For floors wooden house used as intermediate layers. Thickness – from 9 to 20mm, dimensions – 1.22x2.44 meters.

Chipboard Quick Deck Moisture-resistant contains wood shavings and moisture-resistant resin. The surface is hardened, smooth, trimming without chips or scratches. Can be used in laying finished floors, partitions, and ceilings. Thickness and dimensions comply with Russian GOST.

DSP ( Cement particle board) includes wood shavings, cement, binders and other substances. Moisture-resistant, fungus-resistant, fire-resistant, rigid, durable, environmentally friendly. Suitable for use on subfloors. Thickness – from 8 to 24 mm, dimensions – 1.2x3.2 meters.

Constructions

Depending on the type of supports used, the floor can be load-bearing or floating. When supported by load-bearing or support beams, the floor will be connected to the walls of the house and there will be mutual influence when the walls or floor are deformed. For a monolithic connection with walls, beams or metal channels are used. If the support is on pillars, then this option is called floating. Most often it is used when laying a house on the ground with close proximity to soil water.

Support pillars can be made of red baked brick or use monolithic concrete pillars, made with formwork or using asbestos cement pipes and placed inside them with a frame of steel reinforcement. IN modern construction use supports on screw piles, which are fixed in nests in the ground.

Floor structures are placed on a supporting base and on floors. The role of such a base is performed by soil, interfloor, basement or basement floors.

"Pie", or flooring, is divided into two types:

Single flooring made from prepared wooden planks. This type of floor is easy to construct, use and possible repairs in future. Often used in country houses for seasonal use;
Double type of coverage for permanent residences. The technology for this type involves the construction of two floorings - a finishing floor with finishing and a rough or subfloor. The gap between them is space for insulation and protection from moisture.

When interfloor foundations (floors) are installed, there is no need for steam and thermal insulation, it is enough just to isolate them from noise. If it is planned to install bathrooms on the upper floors, then there must be protection against leaks.

Thermal protection, insulation and heating are given special attention if the warm second floor is separated by a floor from the cold basement or basement.

Heating

We lay a vapor barrier on the laid subfloor, and fill the gaps between the joists with insulation (mineral wool). Penoplex or foil polyethylene foam is placed on top. We use polyurethane foam at the junctions of walls and floors. Before laying the finished floor, we lay a layer of vapor barrier material on top. The laid clean layer can be additionally covered with thickened linoleum or carpet.

For many residents, such a scheme is enough to preserve heat, but some also need heated heated floors. Installing heated floors is becoming more and more attractive in home improvement and increasing its comfort.

Floor heating is produced by thermal devices different types, but with the mandatory presence of instruments and sensors to maintain a certain temperature regime.

Heating options:

Innings hot water into heating pipes;
Electric heating heating cable;
Heating by infrared radiation.

With the water method of floor heating, heating pipes are placed in the concrete screed. These can be polyethylene, metal-plastic and copper pipes, through which hot water transfers thermal energy.

A simple solution for supplying hot water to these pipes would be to connect to the general heating system in an apartment building, but this is administratively difficult. Obtaining such permission from utility services, ordering a project and agreeing with the building management is far from an easy task.

In a private house, solving the issue of installing a warm water floor, you can get a safe, durable and cost-effective scheme for maintaining a comfortable thermal regime.

In electric heating systems, a shielded heating cable in combination with temperature sensors is used as the main heat source.

Infrared floors are a thin film with carbon strips between its layers. These strips, receiving power from the electrical network, emit infrared thermal radiation, which heats the space around them.

It is better to entrust the installation of a floor heating system to specialists who will carry out all the work in accordance with the agreed project.

How to choose?

In a log house right choice The type of floor is determined by the number of storeys, climatic features area of residence, assignment of rooms. The first floor requires special attention to all types of insulation, primarily moisture and thermal insulation. If possible, they are heated.

The second floor of a wooden house is protected from moisture and cold and will require lower costs for flooring. A larger selection of floor coverings can be presented here - from linoleum to parquet made from expensive species.

For a dacha on the ground floor would be better suited finished floor, made of boards of the same species from which the walls are made. The boards should be laid out so that they lie parallel from the entrance to the opposite window. It is better to place a bathtub or shower on the first floor, and if there is a need to use the second floor, then it is best to use it for the bathroom ceramic slabs without allowing water to leak.

How to lay it?

In a wooden house, floor boards can be laid on logs, which are better laid with a grid. The step of their installation depends on the thickness of the floorboard. The thicker the veneer board, the thinner the lag mesh. They can be used as timber, half-timber, solid boards, placed on edge. They can be placed on the ground, brick supports, beams, or concrete base. Before making the joists as floor supports, they are kept indoors for several days to acclimatize. Then you need to treat them with an antiseptic and water-repellent compound.

Colors

The color range for doors and floors is more limited compared to walls, but the choice of shades expands.

Laminate, parquet boards, linoleum, carpet, baseboards and other design elements diversify our selection:

The light shade reflects light and enlarges the space, adding a new feeling of freshness and transparency. This is a good solution for the living room and bedroom, but the colors of the walls need to enliven the decor;
The dark shade gives a feeling of stability. It is suitable for rooms where there is a lot of sun. If you choose accessories that contrast with the tone of the floor, you can get a fairly harmonious look.

Painting

Sometimes designers recommend painting the finished floor in accordance with the overall color scheme Houses. Such work will require initial surface preparation. We check the entire floor area that needs to be painted. Floorboards should not creak; they need to be adjusted or restored. It is necessary to remove all irregularities and drive protruding heads of nails and screws into the wood. Any part of the surface with a defect should be repaired and puttied.

You can make the putty yourself. You need to mix sawdust, drying oil and oil paint. You can mix sawdust with PVA glue. After such preparation, you need to wash the floor with soapy water and allow it to dry for 2-3 days.

The mixture for painting should be at oil based, but you can use any other paint prepared as floor paint. You need to paint in at least two layers. After the first layer, you need to give 2-3 days to dry, after applying the second layer, the drying time is up to 5 days.

When applying the final coat, the brush movement should be parallel to the grain of the floorboards. Otherwise general form the coating will appear defective. There can be several technologies for applying floor paint.

Wooden floors allow you to retain heat in your home using minimal technical and material means. It is thanks to this feature that such floors have remained and remain the most widespread throughout their centuries-old history and do not yield their leadership even to the most modern high-tech flooring and coverings.

Floors made from high-quality wood, with proper care, retain their performance characteristics centuries, are relatively inexpensive, universal (they can be installed on any type of base), harmless to the human body and look very impressive. If necessary, they themselves can serve as the basis for installing floors of a different type. Besides, wooden floors They are quite easy to install and can be installed in a private house or apartment by just one person.

General principles of wood flooring

Directly genital boards are always laid on joists, but the logs themselves can be laid either on a concrete or even earthen base, or on supports - usually brick, wooden or metal pillars. Rarely, but still used is a technology in which the ends of the joists are embedded in opposite walls or laid on specially provided ledges near the walls and operated without intermediate supports. However, in this case it is very difficult to cover wide spans - very large logs are required. large section and weight, and it’s almost impossible to install them correctly alone...

Device wooden floors By concrete base practically no different from installing floors in an apartment with floors made of reinforced concrete slabs. The situation is much more complicated with installation of flooring on the first floor of a private house, since in this case it is highly desirable to arrange a ventilated and DRY underground. Its presence largely determines the strength and durability of the finished floor, especially in cases of high location groundwater.

A few words about the instrument

The chosen method of installing the floor determines what tools you will need for the job. But in any case, you can’t do without:

laser level; as a last resort, you can use a hydraulic level, but you will need an assistant to work with it;
ordinary or cross construction bubble level length of at least 1 meter; a cross level is preferable, as it allows you to align the plane simultaneously in two directions;
a hammer weighing no more than 500 g;
chain or circular saw, or a good hacksaw.
jointer and/or grinder.

The usual carpenter's tools - a square, a small axe, a plane, a chisel, a nail puller - will also not be superfluous.

Floor installation on support pillars

Traditionally, a wooden floor is assembled from the following “layers” (from bottom to top):

the basis of the entire flooring is logs;
rough (“bottom”) floor;
waterproofing layer;
thermal insulation layer;
directly wooden floor (finish flooring);
finishing floor covering.

This entire multi-layer “sandwich” is usually supported by supporting pillars - concrete, brick, wood or metal.

Installation of brick pillars

The best choice today is brick pillars, which have acceptable strength characteristics, are quite affordable from a financial point of view and do not require special labor costs during construction. The only limitation is the height of such support pillars should not exceed 1.5 m; if it is larger, in order to maintain the strength of the supports, their cross-section will have to be increased, which will lead to a sharp increase in the required amount of brick and, accordingly, an increase in material costs for construction. For columns with a height of up to 50-60 cm, a section of 1x1 brick is sufficient; for a height of 0.6-1.2 m, the section is made of at least 1.5x1.5 bricks; for columns up to 1.5 m high, at least 2x2 bricks are laid out.

Anyway under brick supports it is necessary to pour concrete “nickels”, the area of which exceeds the cross-sectional area of the columns by at least 10 cm in each direction. The distance between the centers of the sites is selected within 0.7-1 m ALONG the logs and 0.8-1.2 m BETWEEN logs with a section of 100...150x150 mm. After marking, holes about half a meter deep are dug in the places where the pillars are erected; the main thing is that the bottom should be below the fertile layer of the earth. At the bottom of these mini-pits, a sand and gravel “pillow” is made, onto which it is poured concrete mixture. It is desirable that the surface of the resulting “penny” be several centimeters above ground level.

It is at the stage of laying out the support pillars the horizontality of the future floor is laid, and it is at this stage that it is best to use laser level. With its help, the level of the LOWER EDGE OF THE JOINT plus 1 cm is marked on the walls, a construction cord is stretched between the opposite walls along this level, and the height of the pillars is adjusted according to its level. It is not at all necessary to extend it strictly to the millimeter - a gap of a couple of centimeters is quite acceptable. When calculating the total thickness of the floor, it should be taken into account that at least its upper plane must be higher than the level of the building’s basement - otherwise it will be extremely difficult to avoid “cold bridges”.

Some features of support pillars

It is worth providing in them availability of fastenings for joist beams. Typically, vertical “studs” with threads or anchor bolts embedded 10-20 cm deep are used as such fasteners; these are then drilled into the logs in appropriate places through holes, with which the beams are “put on” the resulting pins, and are attracted by nuts and washers. The protruding excess threads are cut off with a grinder.

The side surfaces of the columns and, especially, their upper plane, on which the logs will be laid, preferably cover with a layer of durable plaster– it will further strengthen the structure and play the role of additional waterproofing. Lay on the surface of the finished columns 2-3 layers of small pieces of roofing felt.

After the masonry mortar has completely dried and hardened (this takes about a week), logs can already be laid on the finished support pillars.

Laying logs on brick columns

The length of the joists is selected depending on the floor design. When laying on support pillars, there are only two options for such structures - “floating” and rigid.

Floating or hard floors?

In the first case, the entire “sandwich” of the floor lies and is supported solely by posts, without being rigidly tied to the walls or. In the second, the ends of the joists are rigidly attached to the walls in one way or another; This design practically eliminates the “walking” of the flooring, but when the building settles, it may well lead to deformation of the finished floors.

With a “floating” floor option, the length of the joists is 3-5 cm less than the distance from wall to wall. In the second case, the gap should be no more than 2 cm - otherwise it will be difficult to firmly attach the logs to the walls. If necessary, logs can be made from two or more pieces, connecting them into “half-legs” - but the joint must be on the support post and be nailed or (for lag cross-sections up to 10x100 mm) screwed with self-tapping screws.

If the final length of the logs is less than three meters, then they can be laid directly on the supports (not forgetting about the waterproofing gaskets made of roofing felt!); however, it is much better to place flat pieces of board 25-50 mm thick between the roofing felt and the lower plane of the joist beam. In the case of joint joists, this must be done!

Alignment of logs

After laying the logs on the prepared support pillars, they must be “aligned” according to the level. This is done as follows: using thin wooden spacers the two outer beams are laid strictly horizontally, according to a pre-calculated and marked height level. Spacers are currently used only on the outer support pillars; for now, you can ignore the intermediate ones. The ends of the exposed logs are nailed to the walls; In the case of “floating” floors, this fastening will be temporary.

On both sides, at a distance of 0.3-0.5 m from the walls, along the upper planes of tightly laid joists The construction cord is stretched. All other intermediate beams are derived from it; then, if necessary, spacers are installed between the remaining posts and joists. ALL gaskets must be RIGIDLY tied (nailed) to the joists, and, if possible, to the support posts. The beams must lie tightly on the pillars; in extreme cases, gaps of no more than 2 mm are allowed - but not on adjacent pillars.

Subfloor

After laying the joists, a subfloor is made. To do this, a narrow beam (“skull” beam) is nailed along the entire length of the lower cut of the log on each side. Untreated boards with a length equal to the distance between the logs are laid on it between the lags. After laying, these boards are completely covered with a vapor barrier film, onto which insulation is applied or poured. From above, everything is completely covered with a windproof fabric.

Underfloor ventilation

When installing the floor on brick pillars V underground space ventilation must be provided– forced (with a large cubic capacity of the underground) or natural. A mandatory element of such ventilation is the so-called "produkhi": through holes in or walls located below floor level. Such openings should be located along the entire perimeter of the building and under internal partitions, the distance between them should not exceed 3 m.

The dimensions of the vents are usually chosen 10x10 cm, the center of the hole should be at a height of 0.3-0.4 m from the ground level (above the thickness of the winter snow cover). It must be possible to block the vents in winter time. In addition, in order to protect against rodents, the ventilation openings are covered with a fine-mesh mesh.

When if the underground is not too deep(no more than 0.5 m) and the installation of vents is difficult, ventilation holes are made in the floor itself - usually in the corners. These openings are covered with decorative grilles and must always be open.

How to lay floors correctly

Before laying the floorboards, the insulation is covered with a windproof cloth. The choice of board depends on what exactly the surface of the finished floor will be. If it is intended to be natural, it will require tongue and groove batten(with a lock); if you are laying linoleum or laminate, you can get by with a regular edged board. BUT IN ANY CASE, THE WOOD MUST BE WELL DRYED!

Attach the tongue and groove board to the joists

The first board is placed with a gap of 1-1.5 cm from the wall, and not close to it, with the tenon to the wall. The next boards are pressed against the previous ones using some kind of stop (clamps, for example) and a pair of wooden wedges. Boards, especially if they are thicker than 25 mm, are nailed - self-tapping screws are not suitable in this case, they do not attract the board well to the upper surface of the log. The specified gap of 1-1.5 cm must be maintained along the entire perimeter of the room. The existing joints of the ends of the floorboards must be placed in a checkerboard pattern.

Final finishing of the laid floor

After laying the floorboards, the floor is ready for finishing, consisting in its grinding (scraping) and coating with paint or varnish. It is almost impossible to do this manually - you should use an electric jointer or grinder. After this very dusty procedure, it is recommended that all “opened” Treat cracks and crevices between boards with wood putty, made on the basis of drying oil. The last operation before painting is to attach the baseboard around the perimeter of the room.

The sanded surface is painted or coated with varnish, for example, yacht varnish; modern paints and varnishes allow you to imitate almost any type of wood or surface of the material. Usually at least two layers of coating are applied; a paint roller and a good respirator are used for the job. If you want to get a matte rather than glossy floor surface, you can use wax or oil.

It's obvious that flooring process– one of the most serious and key stages repair work which requires maximum concentration and effort. Regardless of the choice of material, the floor will serve for a long time and effectively only if strictly observed construction technologies, rules and regulations.

Today we will talk about the construction of wooden floor structures on the first floor of a private house using the standard method.

Construction of the structure will take place in five main stages

installation of beams and joists;
arrangement of waterproofing system;
making a rough version of the floor;
execution of a final version of the floor;
flooring installation.

Most often, the entire structure is installed on a series of prepared support columns or beams (concrete or brick). The empty space that remains between the ground and the floor plane is called the underground. This space must be ideally ventilated, only in this case the wood will remain in optimal form for the maximum possible amount of time.

Important nuance. Before you start equipment for wooden floor structures on the ground, you should find out how close to the surface of the earth the groundwater is. If they leak high enough, seriously moistening the soil, serious waterproofing of the entire system will be required. You will also have to arrange high-quality ventilation for the subfloor.

It should be remembered that floors are subject to constant mechanical stress; therefore, wooden flooring should be selected with special care.

In this case, the following points must be taken into account

The wood moisture level should be 12 percent. The durability of the material largely depends on this indicator;
material with cracks or chips is a bad option. In this case, the likelihood of repair work in the near future is very high;
wood covering the floors should be treated with one of the types of reliable antiseptics to increase the level of fire resistance and prevent pathogenic phenomena (fungus, etc.);
the optimal solution would be to choose coniferous species wood: fir, larch, pine, cedar. Among hardwoods, preference should be given to ash or oak.

The durability of wooden floors and the microclimate in the premises of the house depend not least on the condition of the underground - ideally it should be dry and well ventilated. In order to arrange effective system underground ventilation will need to be done required amount holes around the perimeter of the plinths. It is worth foreseeing the likelihood of a snowy winter and removing several ventilation pipes with visors. You can increase the level of air circulation using a window fan (or several). Do not forget about the possibility of small rodents entering the underground - it would not be superfluous to install cellular gratings (cell size up to 8 millimeters).

Most types of wood floors in private homes are laid on a prepared system of support beams laid at the base of the foundation. It happens that the building construction project did not provide for the presence of support beams - in this case, the installation of support columns (concrete or brick) will be required.

If the laying of beams took place along with the construction of the foundation, the required number of support columns will have to be made in a separate order.

It is important to correctly select points for installing supports. For this purpose, a mark must be made on each of the embedded beams, and then ropes must be pulled along the entire subfloor. Next we repeat the same procedure for the width. At the points where the ropes (cords) will intersect, the corners of the support posts should be located.

It is important to correctly determine the number of supports so that the interval between them ranges from 70 centimeters to one meter.

Remember, the greater the thickness of the joists or beams, the smaller the interval when installing supports. The size of each recess for the support post must correspond to the sides of the support. When installing supports, do not forget that the correct choice of its section will depend on the height of the column. The higher the support is from ground level, the more difficult it is to ensure its stability.

So, at the designated points we dig holes with a depth of 40 to 60 centimeters and lay the supports. In the case of brick pillars of small height (up to 25 centimeters), the installation can be done with one and a half bricks; in the case of high supports, we work with 2 bricks. In order to increase the reliability of the support system, you can pour a foundation under their bases. The bricks are secured by cement mortar and are waterproofed.

The option with concrete pillars is considered more reliable due to the use of reinforcement. The parameters of each side of the concrete column can vary from 40 to 50 centimeters, depending on the height of the support itself.

In order for the floor surface to be perfectly flat, it is important to ensure compliance with the horizon even at the stage of installing the supports. Therefore, we recommend regularly checking their flatness using a building level.

The next step is to remove upper layer earth along the entire perimeter of the subfloor, level the surface, then alternately backfill the gravel and sand layers. Each of them must be watered and carefully compacted. Tamping can be done using a vibrating plate or a homemade improvised means.

So, three or four layers of waterproofing material should be laid on top of the supports. Next, we begin installing beams or joists, securely fixing them in place. In principle, the joists can be laid directly on the supports, but if we want the floor to be really strong, we first need to lay the required number of beams. In the case where a joist or beam is shorter than necessary, you should lay the joint between them on a support, connect them together using a “lock” method and secure them using self-tapping screws.

In order to securely fix the logs and beams on the tops of the support pillars, we will need the appropriate number of metal corners. Fastening the corners to the supports is carried out using dowels, and for fastening to wooden surfaces It's better to use self-tapping screws.

Each beam and joist should be thoroughly treated with an antiseptic composition.

If you suddenly discover that the horizon for the support pillars is not ideal, it’s not a big deal. If necessary, a special gasket or wedge can be placed under any of the sagging beams.

About single layer wood floor

Among the main methods of arranging a wooden floor in a country cottage, we will first highlight single-layer and two-layer options. Varieties of single-layer floors are usually performed during construction and renovation country houses. Year-round use Such structures are possible only in fairly warm regions. If you need floors that are warm all year round, it is better to choose the “double insulated” option.

So, to install a single-layer wooden floor, we will need to lay the joists on the support posts and fasten them. In order to make logs, we use the required number of wooden blocks measuring fifty by fifty millimeters. The next step is laying tongue and groove boards (thickness from 40 to 50 millimeters) and attaching them to the joists - for this we will use screws or nails.

Speaking of flooring for a single wooden floor, we recommend choosing linoleum or simple painting.

In some cases, in order to make the entire structure more durable, the beams are first laid on supports, and only then the lags come in turn. A few more words about the support beams. Perhaps the ideal material for manufacturing can be considered wooden beams, the thickness of which is 10 by 10 or 12 by 12 centimeters.

About the draft version of a two-layer floor

So, as mentioned above, if you plan to operate the cottage all year round, you will have to construct a two-layer and insulated floor structure. Of course, in this case you will spend significantly more effort, time and finances, but the level of return from such work will be completely different.

In this case, the sequence of our actions will be as follows

We install the logs on a system of support pillars; we fasten them using self-tapping screws and metal corners;
in each of the gaps, from joist to joist, a moisture-resistant plywood panel must be laid so that each of its edges lies on the protruding section of the support column;
all remaining free space must be filled with thermal insulation (clay with sawdust, glass wool, polystyrene foam, mineral wool);
It's time to lay the subfloor. As a material, it is best to take the required number of boards, the thickness of which can be 15-50 millimeters. It is very important to properly process the boards to ensure they fit together as closely as possible. The lags and boards are fastened using self-tapping screws.

An important nuance: the edges of the plank floor must be at least 15 millimeters from each wall. This is necessary to ensure ventilation and prevent possible swelling of the floor due to seasonal swelling of the wood.

Next, we proceed to laying layers of heat and waterproofing. We cover the subfloors with polyethylene membranes (thickness - two hundred microns) and an additional layer of insulation (for example, polyethylene foam). Each membrane (film) must be overlapped; its edges must be glued using tape.

About laying the finished floor

To install finished flooring options, tongue and groove or parquet boards, as well as plywood panels, are best suited. The latter, as a rule, are laid on top of the insulation and secured with self-tapping screws diagonally and along the entire perimeter. Then the actual installation of the flooring begins.

About the option with tongue and groove boards

Undoubted advantage of this material is that tongue-and-groove floors look aesthetically pleasing even without additional floor coverings - you just need to carefully apply required quantity layers of varnish or paint.

We will lay the tongue-and-groove boards in the following sequence:

before the material goes into work, it must “rest” in the room for 2-3 days, thus “getting used” to the microclimate of a particular room;
it is necessary to make a distance of 15 millimeters from each wall in order to create a gap for ventilation and prevent swelling of the floor;
The finishing floor boards are laid perpendicular to the rough floor boards. We start by laying the first row, clearly maintaining the line - with the spikes towards the wall. We fix each board using self-tapping screws, which must be screwed in in such a way that the baseboard covers them close to the wall. From opposite sides, screwing the screws into the grooves should occur at an angle of 45 degrees. The gaps between the outer boards and the walls are closed with special wooden spacers.

In cases where the floorboards are shorter than the length of the room, they are usually laid staggered. This ensures an increase in the strength of the floor. The length of each screw should be several times the thickness of the boards. Holes for the entry of self-tapping screws should be prepared in advance, otherwise the board may be damaged (chip, crack, etc.).

We lay the next row of material (and each subsequent one) according to the principle of “tenons in the grooves of the boards of the previous row.” We compact the boards with a special rubber hammer, then fasten them using screws with downsides into the grooves.

About the option with parquet boards

The installation of finished floors from solid parquet boards remains one of the most popular and sought-after options in private homes.

Several features of the optimal implementation of this process of laying parquet boards

fastening massive parquet boards using self-tapping screws can only be done on those sides where the tenons are located;
the parquet board is laid out exclusively “staggered”;
in the version using a plywood base, it is recommended to first fix the boards “with glue”, and only then fasten them using self-tapping screws;
diagonal method Laying parquet boards makes it possible to visually enlarge the room.

Finally

Each of the wooden elements included in the floor structure must be treated with antiseptic and fire retardant compounds. This treatment will help increase the period of trouble-free use of the structure. The work on laying wooden floors in the house can be considered finally completed after applying the final floor coverings.

Video: Laying a wooden floor

The process of constructing a private wooden house consists of several stages, one of which is related to the construction of the floor structure. Its type is chosen at the design stage of the structure and many factors are taken into account. What kind of floors there are in a wooden house, and the features of their designs will be discussed in this article.

The floor on the ground floor in a wooden house, when there is an unheated basement underneath, has its own characteristics. In this regard, several types of structures can be distinguished:

1. Cold floor construction, installed on an earthen base (without underground). The installation of this type of cold floor is possible only if there is dry soil under the building and a high location of the floors of the lower floor, under which a layer of compacted sand is laid. Another layer of clean, calcined, dry sand is poured on top of it. Logs made of coniferous timber with a thickness of more than 150 mm are buried in the formed soil base and rest against special recesses in the walls of the house. On top there is a single plank flooring, the thickness of which is from 30 to 40 mm.

2. Warm floors with a cold underground are recommended in areas where there is high level groundwater. This design is arranged as follows:

cleaned sand in a layer of 10 - 15 cm is laid on the ground in the underground and compacted;
install supports with a height of at least 50 cm. To do this, you can fill concrete mortar into vertically buried pipes with a metal frame of the required height;
placed on top of supports double layer waterproofing material and wooden dies 3 cm thick;
load-bearing beams are laid.

To install thermal insulation, it is necessary to install a subfloor laid on slats nailed to the ends of the joists. For flooring, cut unedged boards are used. Then a layer of vapor barrier and insulation are laid. After this, a plank covering is laid over the beams.

3. The installation of a cold floor with a warm subfloor is recommended where the soil has low level soil water. In the same way as in the previously described method, the structure is installed, but the stage of installing a subfloor with insulation is skipped and a clean floor is installed.

What should a wooden house be like?

The floor in a wooden house should be strong, durable, warm and smooth, with an aesthetic appearance.

When performing work on installing a floor in a wooden house independently, take into account the above requirements, and also determine the procedure for performing the upcoming work, take into account the characteristics of the building’s structures and individual characteristics operation of the house. First we need to consider different variants floors that can be installed in a wooden house, study their pros and cons and, taking into account operating conditions, choose suitable option.

An important criterion that the floor must meet is its evenness. Regardless of the flooring material, it must meet sanitary, hygienic, structural, operational and aesthetic requirements.

Types of floors

Floors in wooden houses are made of wood or concrete - the most common building materials. The technology of installing a “warm floor system” can also be implemented.

Now there are several types of “warm floors” on the construction market. They differ in the type of coolant and operating efficiency. We'll tell you in our article.

Concrete floor

A popular way to obtain a level base in a relatively short time is to pour concrete screed. While it may take a month for the screed to dry completely, installing a new wooden one will take longer.

The advantages of concrete floors are as follows:

A significant reduction in the cost of the finishing coating device.
After the screed has dried, a flat base is obtained, but which can be laid with any finishing material.
With an initially high-quality screed, additional leveling before the finishing stage of work may not be necessary, which will save time, physical effort and costs of materials.
The screed can be installed independently, without the involvement of specialists.

You will learn how to install a concrete floor in a private house yourself in two main options - on the ground and on the floors.

Disadvantages include heavy weight monolithic design floor and, as a result, an increase in the load on the foundation. That's why necessary calculations foundations are carried out at the design stage of the house. Another nuance is that when the walls vibrate, the screed may crack, which will lead to heat loss. Therefore, when installing a heated floor, it is necessary to perform high-quality thermal insulation grounds.

Wooden floor

Another common material for flooring in a wooden house is natural wood. Its advantages include the following:

Ecologically pure material with a rich natural pattern.
Wood is safe because it does not contain harmful additives, it is completely natural and does not emit environment harmful toxins.
Aesthetic appearance And organic combination wood with the rest of the building surfaces, while the concrete floor will not look natural.
When installing a wooden floor, you can refuse other finishing materials. With the help of varnishes, oils, stains and other impregnations, a finished wooden base can become stronger, more durable and acquire an original, noble appearance.
Wood is very durable and, depending on the species, you can choose a material with certain operational properties and texture.

The undeniable quality of natural wood gives an atmosphere of warmth and comfort, creates optimal microclimate and comfort in the home.

Important! The wooden floor is repairable. To carry out routine repairs of its fragment, it is not necessary to dismantle the entire flooring; a separate fragment can be replaced. This will require a minimum set of tools and construction skills.

Among the disadvantages of a wooden floor, the high cost of the material and the labor involved in its installation are noted. In addition, it can be quite difficult to obtain a perfectly level base.

Which is better - concrete or wood?

At the design stage of a private house, you must immediately decide what the floor will be - wooden or concrete. To choose the most suitable option, you need to know what the difference is between these floors.

Price

To fill a screed 5 cm thick, you will need 0.5 bags of cement (300 rubles/bag) and 1.5 (50 rubles/bag) bags of sand. Thus, 1 m 2 screeds will cost an average of 225 rubles. If the work will be performed by a hired person, then the cost of the work must be added to this amount - 250 rubles / m 2.

If we take dry timber 10 x 10 cm as a basis, in increments of 40 cm (400 rubles / m 2) and OSB boards(600 rub./m2) 18 mm thick. With the work of a carpenter, the cost will be 1250 rubles/m2.

Communications

In modern houses, the heating, water supply and sewerage systems are laid inside the floor structure. In the event of a pipe break, wooden ones can be quickly sawed and access to communications can be gained. With concrete floors it is more difficult - to remove the screed you will have to use professional tool, and the process itself will take a lot of time and effort.

Deadlines

The screed gains full strength within 28 days from the date of pouring. Moreover, it gains 70% of its strength in the first week. All this time, the solution gives off moisture and nothing can be laid on it.

Wooden floors can be used immediately after installation.

Durability

If the wooden floor is not installed professional craftsman, then after a couple of weeks you can hear a characteristic creaking sound when walking on the floor. Concrete screed does not have this drawback. Moreover, when work is performed by hired workers, the result and quality of their work can be assessed immediately.

Weight

The weight of 1 m 2 OSB sheet with a thickness of 18 mm is 12 kg, logs per 1 m 2 weigh about 25 kg, depending on the type of wood. Thus, 1 m2 of wooden floor will weigh about 40 kg. And 1 m 2 ties with a thickness of 5 cm weighs 100 kg.

The process of constructing floors on pillars

When constructing such a floor, the following procedure must be followed:

Prepare the base. To do this, marking and excavation of soil with a plant layer is carried out. The resulting depression is filled with crushed stone and sand on top, which is then compacted.
Then the brick support pillars are installed, taking into account the basic design requirements regarding the height of the finished floor and the structure below it.
It is mandatory to take into account the ratio of the height of the support column and the section of the brick. So, with a support height of 25 cm and above, the recommended width of the support column is equal to two bricks.
It is necessary to start installing supports first along the perimeter of the future room, and then within the specified boundaries.
I lay two layers of roofing material on the upper plane of each column to ensure waterproofing of the structure.
Then the wooden linings are fixed. Logs made of logs or timber are installed on them. The width of the step of their location relative to each other is chosen depending on the width of the floor boards to be laid.
Slag backfill, the height of which does not reach the log by 5 cm, is used to prevent the mobility of the floor structure in the cold season when the soil freezes. The remaining free space provides ventilation to the structure.

Laying the floor on top of the installed joists is done using boards, which begin to be laid at a distance of 1.5 cm from the wall. The resulting gap performs a ventilation function, which is very important for the correct and long-term operation of a natural wood floor.

The boards are attached to the joists using long nails driven at an angle of 45 degrees. While the wood is not completely dry, install temporary skirting boards.

Single layer floor

The single floor structure can be placed on poles, as described above. Only on top of the supports are beams placed, on top of which the flooring is made of tongue-and-groove boards.

The second option is to install the floor along beams embedded in the body of the load-bearing enclosing structures of the building. Beams serve as the basis for the floor, and brick supports are no longer required.

Due to the large free distance between the beams, the fastening of the flooring from the boards is carried out along the sheathing:

The sheathing is made of timber with a square section of 5-6 cm.
The pitch of the timber in the sheathing depends on the thickness of the floor board. The thinner the board, the smaller the distance between the lags.
During the installation of the sheathing, it is important to control its horizontal position so that the end result is an even plank covering.
Fastening the boards begins after all the logs are installed in their places and securely fixed with nails.
If it is not planned to lay additional flooring on top decorative covering– laminate, tile, linoleum, then it is finished.
After the single decking is installed, it is covered with two layers of protective varnish.

Advice. If the flooring is rough, then you can use an unedged board to construct it.

When making a single floor, no serious professional skills or significant time and financial costs are required. But its disadvantage is low thermal insulation properties.

The optimal solution for arranging the floor in a wooden house is a two-layer structure, consisting of a rough and finishing layer. Installation of such a structure occurs in the following way:

The subfloor is installed from unedged boards up to 4.5 cm thick, treated with an antiseptic compound. In this case, preference should be given to wood coniferous species– it is durable, resistant to moisture, dampness and rotting.
The boards are laid close to each other, and a layer of thermal insulation made of mineral wool, polystyrene foam, expanded clay or sawdust is laid on top.
In addition to insulation, it is necessary to steam and waterproof the structure to extend its service life.
The finished floor boards are laid as for other types of structures, leaving a gap of 1.5 cm between them with the subfloor.

A clean floor can serve as a finishing coating or serve as a basis for laying decorative flooring, which will not only decorate the room, but also increase the thermal insulation properties of the floor.

Start of work - installation of the subfloor

A subfloor when installing plank flooring is necessary for several reasons:

To increase the operational life of the structure due to the presence of high-quality floor ventilation.
It performs a function solid foundation for laying insulation and finished floors.
Makes the frame of the building more rigid.

Before starting work on the installation of the rough structure, check the following:

The wood chosen as the material for the construction of the subfloor must have an optimal level of humidity - this will eliminate possible deformation of the structure during its subsequent use.
The boards should not have obvious defects.
If an inexpensive board can be used for the subfloor, then for the finished floor it is purchased with a reserve, so that later you do not have to look for material of the same shade.

Preparation

Installation of the subfloor can be carried out both on the ground and on the floors. In any case, it is necessary to carry out a set of preparatory measures:

The walls of the building must be equipped with ventilation windows, closed from the outside with special grilles.
All wooden parts treated with antiseptic compounds to increase the service life of the structure.
Taking into account the size of the room in which the floor will be installed, calculate the required amount of material.
Throughout all work, it is important to monitor the horizontal position of the floor structure to prevent the formation of a slope.
Timber and logs are subject to processing, in which they are cut to eliminate slopes and bevels.

Laying the subfloor

To ensure that the floor does not creak, does not vibrate, is smooth and warm, it is necessary to pay special attention to the laying of the subfloor and, first of all, to the joists.

The logs should be suspended on the beam supports in increments of 60 cm - insulation will be laid in the gap formed. It is not worth saving on beams in order to avoid sagging and vibration of the floor during operation.

Where heavy equipment, such as a stove or fireplace, will subsequently be installed, the floor is reinforced by placing beams in 30 cm increments.

Fastenings in such places are also further reinforced.

At the bottom, beams are nailed across the beams. Between floors, beams are nailed along the beams - this will save the height of the room and, if necessary, use the upper beams as decorative element in the interior after their additional finishing.

In the gap, an OSB sheet is laid on the beams.

After this, mineral wool slabs are laid in a checkerboard pattern, and on top there is a continuous layer of vapor barrier, which covers the logs and is fixed with construction stapler. The vapor barrier seam is taped.

The second layer of vapor barrier is laid overlapping, and a ventilation gap is formed on top. To do this, use a 40 x 100 mm block, screwed to the floor joists. The finishing floor will be installed on top of these bars.

Important! All wooden elements must be treated with antiseptic compounds.

Video - Insulating a wooden floor

Finished floor installation

To obtain an aesthetically attractive and durable finished floor, it is recommended to use a milled board with a tongue-and-groove fastening.

Table 1. Instructions for laying finished floorboards

Illustration	Description
	The first board is laid with a groove against the wall, leaving an expansion gap.
	It must be secured with self-tapping screws so that you can later cover the attachment point with a plinth. There are 2 options for further fastening the boards.
	The first option uses self-tapping screws that are twice as long as the floorboard.
	Self-tapping screws are screwed into each joist in the center of the board. Subsequently, the caps can be masked using wood putty.
	Then take the next board and align the tenon with the groove.
	If necessary, the boards are adjusted by hitting them with a mallet through a block.
	Or they press it with a chisel.
	The second fastening option involves screwing self-tapping screws at an angle of 45 degrees into the tenon. To prevent the board from bursting, you must first drill a hole for the screw.
	With this option, the boards fit closer to each other, and the fastening elements are invisible.

After all the boards are laid, their surface is sanded and coated with wear-resistant varnish in several layers.

Concrete floor in a wooden house

The most common way to install a concrete floor in a wooden house is to pour it over the ground, but with the obligatory condition that the ground must be dry.

Stage 1 – preparation

Preparatory work includes the following steps:

Using a level, determine the main indicators and calculate the excavation work.
To prevent soil subsidence and cracking of the concrete floor in the future, the soil is carefully compacted using special devices.
A well-compacted sand cushion is placed over the ground. The backfill will be denser if you pour material that exceeds the required volume by 25%, moisten it and compact it thoroughly using a roller or vibrator.
An expanded clay or gravel layer is laid on the sand.

Stage 2 - waterproofing

On next stage must be completed , so that it does not absorb moisture from the concrete screed, and it will also protect the floor from ground moisture. For this purpose, roll materials based on bitumen are used. You can use thick plastic film.

The waterproofing material is laid overlapping, extending it onto the wall by 20 cm, and then the joints are taped. It is important that the material is homogeneous and without damage.

An alternative way is coating method, when mastic waterproofing is applied at the stage of pouring the subfloor.

Stage 3 - pouring the subfloor

The subfloor or technological floor serves as the basis for the hydro- and vapor barrier layer. For its production, concrete of class B7.5 - B10 and crushed stone of size 50-20 are used. There are no strict rules for pouring the rough layer, the main thing is that its thickness is about 50 mm, and the difference does not exceed 4 mm.

Stage 4 – vapor barrier and insulation

Lay on top of the subfloor vapor barrier material in the form of inexpensive membranes made of fiberglass or polyester. PVC membranes are a durable material that is not afraid of rotting. Insulation is laid over the vapor barrier - this can increase the energy efficiency of a living space by 20%. The following materials can be used as insulation:

Mineral wool, the density of which does not exceed 120 kg/m 3. To prevent it from accumulating cotton wool, it is insulated with polyethylene.
Where the floor is subject to heavy loads, it is recommended to use extruded polystyrene foam, which deforms when compressed and then returns to its original state.
When using polystyrene foam, it is covered with polyethylene on all sides to give strength.

Stage 5 – final screed

At the final stage, the final screed is performed, which will become the basis for the decorative flooring. It can be monolithic or dry. In the first case, pouring a solution with a coarse filler in the form of crushed stone, stones, small pebbles or a cement-sand composition ( quartz sand) is produced by lighthouses. Begin pouring the screed from the far corner of the room, leveling the solution using the rule. Complete drying of the screed occurs after 30 days.

An alternative is dry screed based on fiberboard, plywood and asbestos cement sheets, GKLV. The technology is simple and fast:

Line with plastic film.
A technological gap of 1 cm is left along the walls, into which soundproofing material is placed.
Sand backfill is 5 cm thick.
The sheet material is laid in two layers and securely fixed to each other using self-tapping screws or construction adhesive.
Perform puttying and sanding of joints.

Finishing materials

Material for finishing Floors in a wooden house are selected depending on the interior design. If the appearance of the house inside retains the color of natural wood, which on the walls and ceiling is not hidden behind other finishing, then the flooring should be organically combined with it.

Table 2. Types of flooring

Illustration	Description
	In a wooden house the best solution the floor will be made of natural wood. It will organically fit into the interior with wood paneling walls Wood has low thermal conductivity, it is environmentally friendly and safe. Natural wood flooring is distinguished by a variety of textures and rich natural patterns.
	A beautiful and natural floor covering for a wooden house can be obtained by laying parquet made of natural wood, which has high aesthetics, a variety of shades and good performance.
	In rooms with high humidity– bathroom, shower bath, kitchen, and also in the hallway practical solution will be laying tiles.
	An alternative material to expensive natural wood becomes a laminate that has high strength, wear resistance and decorativeness. This material imitates many, even rare and very expensive types of wood.

Prices for popular types of block parquet

piece parquet

A wooden house is distinguished by a special atmosphere of home comfort and warmth, so natural materials look natural in its walls.