Spring protection of garden plants from pests and diseases. Common plant problems

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Russian name: Fatsia (Indoor Aralia)
Latin name: Fatsia Decne. et Planch.
Family: Araliaceae - Araliaceae
Homeland: Japan
Ease of growing: For beginners
Lighting: Bright light
Humidity: High

Rod wears a modified Japanese name of this plant Two species common in Japan and on the island. Taiwan.

A woody plant with large, up to 35 cm in diameter, green, shiny, dissected, pointed, horizontal leaves on long petioles. Lower leaves can be solid or with 2-3 blades. Fatsia flowers are greenish-yellow in an umbellate inflorescence.

Prefers coolness Fresh air and bright light, but overall very hardy and adapts to any conditions. It makes sense to purchase a small plant - it will grow quickly and in two to three years will reach 1.4 m or more. It develops well only with free arrangement of plants.

F. Japanese - F. japonica Deche. et Planch.

An evergreen small tree up to 4 m tall with a usually unbranched trunk covered with light brown bark. Leaves are up to 30 cm in diameter, alternate, petiolate, collected at the tips of the shoots, rounded in outline, heart-shaped at the base, palmately divided, lobes broadly lanceolate, serrate along the edges. Petioles are swollen at the base, with brownish, falling, patchy pubescence. The flowers are small, white or yellowish-green, collected in an apical umbellate inflorescence. The fruits are berry-shaped, dark blue. Homeland - Japan; grows in humid subtropical forests. Known garden forms: "Variegata" - with leaves painted white or cream at the ends of the lobes; "Aureimarginalis" with a yellow border along the edge of the leaf.

Location
light and ventilated (needs a well-ventilated area), slightly shaded, not directly sun rays. In winter - light at a temperature of 6-10 degrees. For variegated varieties, the temperature should be about 16 degrees.

Lighting
Bright light

Watering
When growing Fatsia, you need to be careful with watering. Drying a clod of earth once will cause the leaves to droop. The leaves can be straightened only by tying them with spacers to a horizontal position. It should be watered abundantly from spring to autumn, moderately in winter. However, due to waterlogging of the soil, the leaves become soft and lethargic, turn yellow and fall off. With insufficient watering, the tips of the leaves dry out.

Air humidity
High

Humidity: additional information
Requires frequent spraying of leaves. If the air is too dry, the leaves can wrinkle, become brittle, turn yellow and fall off.

Care
Every year in the spring, trim the ends of the shoots to enhance branching and wash the leaves from time to time. good care Fatsia's stem is covered with leaves almost all the way to the base, and near the root collar may appear side shoots, which can be used for cuttings. Cuttings easily take root on any substrate. Old Fatsia plants can be rejuvenated using the technique of air layering. The trunk of the plant is carefully, slightly ring-shaped, cut in its upper part, and tied with damp moss soaked in a nutrient solution and growth hormones, for example, heteroauxin. The moss is constantly moistened. Two months after the wound has healed and roots have formed at the site of the incision, the removed top is cut off below the site of root formation and planted. The stump remaining after cutting the trunk of an old plant will in turn produce 2-3 young shoots. Sometimes after removal air layering the trunk is not cut off, but grafted onto it into a split or behind the bark 2 - 3 cuttings of indoor ivy The grafted cuttings will take root and grow, falling down, beautifully framing the Fatsia trunk, giving the plant a weeping shape.

Reproduction
in the spring apical cuttings from air layering or seeds. Stem cuttings in summer.

Transfer
Fatsia is replanted annually in the spring. Soil: turf and leaf soil with sand (2: 1: 0.5).

Possible difficulties
Pests: spider mites, mealybug, aphids, scale insects.

Difficulties:
The leaves turn yellow and fall off. There may be two reasons. If the leaves are soft and limp, waterlogging of the soil is to blame. If the leaves are brittle, the air is too dry.

Shriveled leaves. The reason is too dry air or sunburn. Don't forget to shade Fatsia in the summer.

Pale spotted leaves. The tips of the leaves are brown and brittle. The reason is insufficient watering. A large plant needs to be watered more often.

Fatsia is a plant that has long been loved by gardeners. It gained particular popularity at the beginning of the twentieth century due to the fact that it grows quickly and reproduces easily. This is the most beautiful evergreen shrub It amazes with its gorgeous smooth leaves that look like maple leaves. According to the teachings of Feng Shui, fatsia is able to protect the positive atmosphere in the home.

Origin, type and varieties of fatsia

The birthplace of Fatsia (lat. Fatsia) is Japan, although in wildlife this evergreen shrub, reaching 6 meters in height, can be found not only in the “Land of the Rising Sun”, but also along the reservoirs of Taiwan and South Korea. The plant has beautiful leathery leaves of a heart-shaped round shape, which eventually dissect into 5-9 lobes. It is the leaves that are its main advantage and the reason for its enormous popularity. The umbrella inflorescences of white and greenish-yellow colors attract with their sophistication, although they do not have any special decorative value. In nature, fatsia grows in shady and damp places.

Fatsia belongs to the monotypic genus dicotyledonous plants from the Araliaceae family (Fam. Araliaceae). Only one species is grown in room conditions- fatsia japonica. It also has another name - Fatsia Siebold. The plant has been cultivated for about three centuries, but it was brought to Europe much later - in the middle of the 19th century.

Fatsia japonica can reach a height of 1.5 meters, it grows quite quickly (almost doubling in size in a year) and reproduces well. The following varieties are very popular:

• Spider’s Web (white streaks scattered throughout the foliage);
• Variegata (dark green foliage edged with light stripes);
• Annelise (golden shade);
• Murakumo Nishiki (pale yellowish color);
• Tsumugi Shibori (has many white spots).

No less attractive is Fatshedera Lizei, a plant that appeared as a result of crossing Fatsia and common ivy. This hybrid has lobed dark green leaves and a thin long stem (up to 5 m).

This is interesting! Fatsia japonica can absorb and throw out all the negativity from the house, thereby creating a warm, peaceful and cozy environment.

Fatsia is sometimes called aralia, although fatsia is a houseplant and aralia is garden perennial. The following types of aralia are found in the wild: Manchurian, continental, heart-shaped. The latter (Aralia cordata) is closest in appearance to Fatsia. This herbaceous plant with pinnate double leaves on long petioles. In nature, it can be found in clearings and forest edges only on Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands. Aralia roots are used with therapeutic purpose- Medicines are made on their basis.

Photo gallery: fatsia varieties

Fatsia variety Spider's Web Fatsia variety Variegata Fatsia variety Mizeri Fatsia variety Tsumugi Shibori Fatsia variety Murakumo Nishiki Fatshedera ordinary Fatshedera variegated

Requirements for the conditions of keeping fatsia

Fatsia is watered with soft, settled water room temperature. Because the flower loves high humidity air, it should be sprayed with water (30 ° C) once a day, placed under a warm shower and wiped with leaves soft material. Such procedures are carried out in the spring and summer. Variegated fatsias are more demanding of light and heat. Even during the cold dormant period, they need a temperature of at least 16 ° C.

In winter, the plant is placed in a cooler, but sufficiently lit place. For many gardeners it is extremely difficult to find suitable conditions. In this case, of course, you cannot do without highlighting. The best option- installation fluorescent lamps cool white color.

For fatsia, 6–8 hours of artificial light per day is sufficient.

Table: fatsia growing conditions

Transplanting a plant

The flower is replanted once a year in the first two years of life, then once every three to four years. After purchase, fatsia also needs to be replanted in order to replace plastic pot to clay and change the substrate. The clay pot is selected in diameter larger than the root system of the flower by 3–4 cm and 5 cm deeper than the previous pot, always with drainage holes.

If there is only one hole, then you can drill several more so that the earthen ball does not become waterlogged.

Pores in a clay pot will allow moisture to evaporate quickly. A deeper container is needed so that the fatsia roots do not grow into the holes and do not suffer during replanting.

1/3 of the pot is filled with drainage (expanded clay). Suitable soil mixture You can prepare it yourself by taking turf soil, compost soil, peat and coarse sand in a ratio of 2:1:1:1. If necessary, you can cut or break the pot, observing safety precautions. The pot is placed in a tray with wet gravel to prevent the soil from drying out.

If you find rotten spots on the roots of a flower, immediately remove them with a disinfected knife and treat them with crushed charcoal or activated carbon.

You should carefully remove the roots that have grown into the holes, since Fatsia reacts painfully to their damage - the leaves may lose turgor.

When filling the plant during transplantation, the root collar is left uncovered. The soil is slightly compacted. Water generously the first time, then for a week as the top layer dries.

Video: fatsia transplant

Flowering, pruning fatsia

Indoor Aralia blooms on rare occasions. Flowering lasts throughout June-August. Flowers - openwork umbrellas are collected in paniculate inflorescences and do not differ in decorative appearance, but they attract with their delicate aroma. In autumn, the plant is strewn with small dark blue berries.

Caution: Fatsia berries are poisonous! Fatsia pruning is usually done once after replanting to form the crown of young plants. Only young plants are pruned in the first 3 years of life. In old specimens, any pruning worsens appearance and makes the plant less spectacular.

Fatshedera is more demanding when it comes to pruning, which is pruned 4–5 times a year. In addition, to determine the shape of the plant, tweezing (pinching the top) is done. This procedure should be treated with caution: touching the leaves of the flower can cause an allergic reaction.

Fatsia in most cases does not need support. It happens when wilted leaves are laid out on spreader sticks so that they become elastic again. The walls of the house can serve as support for the plant.

More often, support is selected for fatshedera, since this plant has a long, thin trunk. It is supported by pillars, grilles, arches, and shop windows.

Fatsia pests and diseases

Table: insecticides for fatsia pest control

The water for the solution is taken warm (25 ° C).

Attention! When working with insecticides, do not forget to take safety precautions: spray in non-residential premises, check the sprayer nozzles thoroughly to prevent leakage, wear gloves and safety glasses.

It is much worse if the cause of the poor condition of indoor aralia is fungal and viral infections. They often cause the death of the plant.

Table: fatsia diseases

Reproduction of fatsia

Growing fatsia from seeds is a less expensive and labor-intensive method. In most cases, seeds are purchased, since it blooms and bears fruit only in the greenhouse. If you have purchased seeds, try to sow without delaying next year, as they quickly lose their viability. Best time for sowing - spring, when you can do without highlighting the sprouts. Fatsia propagation consists of the following steps:

1. The seeds are soaked in water at room temperature for two days. If you have a compressor for an aquarium, you can place it there to saturate the water with oxygen. In this case, 10–12 hours of soaking is sufficient.
2. The substrate is prepared light and loose - peat and perlite in a 1:1 ratio. If you take sand, sterilize it in a “water bath” or bake it in the oven. To prevent seedlings from rotting, it is necessary to take a pot with holes. For the same purpose, drainage is placed at the bottom.
3. The seeds are evenly distributed over the soil by 0.5 cm and sprinkled with it. thin layer sand. The containers are covered with glass or film to prevent moisture from evaporating and placed in a dark place for germination. The seeds grow at a temperature of 13–15 °C.
4. After about a month, seedlings will appear, and the containers with seedlings are transferred to a warmer 15–18 ° C and well-lit place where direct sunlight does not penetrate.
5. Seedlings are picked when the third true leaf appears. The temperature drops to 10–15 ° C. After six months, when the small plants have become stronger, they, along with a lump of earth, are transplanted into pots 8–11 cm high with a nutrient substrate.

There is also a vegetative method of propagation oriental beauty- apical or stem cuttings and air layering:

1. The cuttings are cut 10–15 cm long with a sterile instrument (knife or pruning shears).
2. The sections are dusted with sulfur or activated carbon.
3. Planted in damp sand, pre-soaked for 3 hours in a solution of a root formation stimulator (Charkor, Heteroauxin).
4. The containers are covered plastic film to create a greenhouse effect. Cuttings are germinated at a temperature of 25° C and diffused light.
5. After a month, the cuttings develop roots, which are planted in the prepared soil mixture. Expanded clay is also placed in pots.

Video: fatsia propagation

If the plant takes on an unsightly appearance (the trunk becomes bare, the leaves dry out and wrinkle), it should be given a second life by propagating by air layering. To do this you need:

1. In early spring, make a small cut on the trunk.
2. You can insert a match into the cut area to prevent the cut parts from closing.
3. The cut is dusted with Kornevin, and wet moss is placed on the trunk and wrapped with film.
4. After the roots have formed, the shoot is cut 3 cm below the root system and transplanted into nutrient soil.
5. You can water the lower part and wait for new shoots, or you can experiment and try to graft ivy onto the trunk.

Fatsia japonica is a fast-growing tree, reaching a height of 1.5 - 2 m in room conditions, in a natural environment the size of this amazing plant twice as much. Fatsia's decorative value lies in its shiny, bright green leathery leaves. Unlike the leaves, Fatsia flowers are small and inconspicuous.

IN last years Fatsia has gained great popularity and wide distribution among lovers of indoor greenery. And although this plant is quite unpretentious, but, like any exotic in our homes, fatsia needs special care and certain conditions of detention.

Prefers well-lit places, but does not like direct light sunlight, although variegated varieties require more light. In summer, it is advisable to take the plant out onto the balcony, as it needs fresh air.

Be careful when watering fatsia. Drying out of the soil is unacceptable, as is stagnation of water in the pan. The leaves of a plant that have drooped due to improper watering are almost impossible to restore to their former form.

For supporting decorative look Wipe the leaves regularly with a soft, damp cloth. If you decide to use a spray to add gloss, use only products from well-trusted manufacturers. The plant must breathe.

The most common ones when growing fatsia are red spider mites, aphids and gray mold. Let's look at them in more detail.

Aphid. It is easily recognized by densely formed clusters at growing points, on young leaves and shoots. The greatest danger that aphids bring is the transfer viral diseases and weakening of the plant. Fortunately, this type of pest can be easily eradicated; just wash the plant well with soapy water, and then treat it with tobacco or wormwood infusion. In addition, aphids are too sensitive to most poisons used to protect plants.

Gray rot. This fungal disease fatsia appears due to excess moisture. Rot can affect any above-ground part of the plant. To get rid of it, mechanical intervention is necessary; the affected parts will have to be cut off with a sharp knife, then reduce the air humidity and improve its circulation in the room.

Ticks. Fatsia is the most difficult pest to remove and thrives in human homes. Initially, spider mite damage appears as yellowish spots on the plant, which gradually turn brown. To prevent the disease, you can use regular spraying (the mite does not like high humidity). Spider mite can't stand it ultraviolet rays, so to combat it you can use ultraviolet lamp or take the flower outside. The tick is a worthy opponent, so avoid using chemicals it won't work. To the most effective drugs To combat this pest today we can include "Aktellik", "Fitoverm", "Neoron". When using medications, carefully read the instructions to avoid negative consequences.

Protect your plant from unfavorable conditions, and you long years you can enjoy its splendor.

Living close to nature is a pipe dream for many city dwellers. Will help you get closer to its implementation houseplants, they create an aura of natural freshness. Moreover, a green corner in an apartment can be a semblance of not only the tropics, but also our Central Russian forests. For example, fatsia (or Japanese aralia) will remind you of a chestnut or maple grove. Its large patterned leaves are very similar to the greenery of your favorite trees. In order for them to stay green for a long time, you need to know the basics of caring for Fatsia at home.

​Origin of fatsia, appearance and care features

Fatsia is a native of the Asian Southeast. This plant, which naturally reaches a height of 5 meters, is common in Japan, Korea, the island of Taiwan and New Zealand. In its natural environment, Fatsia is accustomed to warm and humid summers, cool but frost-free, and dry winters. She tolerates significant daily changes well.

The plant is used for landscape gardening in regions with a subtropical climate. In Russia, Fatsia is open ground grown on the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus and in the Crimea.

In Japan, fatsia is traditionally planted near houses on the north side. There is a belief that the plant protects the inhabitants of the home from the evil spirits of the north.

How Aralia became Fatsia: Difficulties of Classification

Before mid-19th century centuries, no one knew a plant called “Fatsia”. The evergreen tree, brought to Europe from Japan, won the sympathy of flower growers under the name Japanese Aralia.

The feathery, large, glossy leaves and relatively undemanding nature of the new plant appealed to many.

Japanese Aralia began to be grown at home, mainly used for landscaping in shaded areas. However, botanists who were studying representatives of the large plant family Araliaceae decided in 1854 to identify a separate genus with the name Fatsia.

It included only three species. Fatsias differ from other Araliaceae in the special structure of their leaves and inflorescences, and most importantly in that they are evergreen and not deciduous plants.

IN A new genus of Araliaceae was identified by French botanists Joseph Decken and Jules Planchon. They derived the name of the plant from the old Japanese word “fatsi”, which means the number 8. Thus, scientists noted the number of leaf blades. However, their number may vary. The young leaf is not divided into lobes at all. Japanese Aralia at home indoor floriculture Fatsia has been cultivated for over 200 years. However, the plant, popular in the 19th century, has now given way to more exotic tropical flowers. Although fatsia has many advantages. Unlike Tropicans, it can tolerate a lack of light and does not require high humidity. all year round, she is growing quickly, and

It is generally accepted that Fatsia is easy to care for. This plant is “generally very hardy and adapts to any conditions,” writes gardening guru Dr. Hessayon. He advises giving the flower fresh air, coolness and diffused light, then there will be no problems. True, he notes that there are some difficulties when growing fatsia. According to Russian amateur gardeners, this plant is not as simple as it seems at first glance. It is especially difficult to adapt to watering; fatsia is almost equally intolerant of either drought or overwatering. But fans of chestnut greens find an approach to eastern plant

and have already learned to overcome difficulties. The most important thing, they admit, is regular and attentive care.

Russians often call Fatsia a home or Japanese chestnut. Its crown, in fact, is similar to a chestnut tree, only it grows much faster and remains green all year round. When kept at home, Fatsia rarely grows above 2 meters. Over the years, the straight stem becomes covered with bark. If the plant is not helped, it branches weakly. Fatsia has a fluffy crown, consisting of large leaves (up to 35 cm) of an original shape. They are located on long petioles. At first, the rounded leaf is solid, over time it is divided into parts-blades with a pointed end, there can be from 5 to 9. The texture of the leaf plate is dense and glossy. The color of the base form is rich green, there is

variegated varieties with contrasting spots and edges. Openwork foliage is the main decoration of fatsia.

Flowers at home appear rarely and are not very decorative. They are white or greenish, collected in umbrella inflorescences. When pollinated, blue-black berries are formed, but fatsia seeds do not always ripen completely.

Fatsia juice is slightly toxic. It may cause an allergic reaction in people with sensitive skin.

Therefore, when transplanting and shaping a plant, you should wear gloves and then wash your hands thoroughly.

1. Fatsia Japanese, its hybrids and varieties
2. In indoor floriculture, only one type of Fatsia is cultivated - Japanese Aralia, as well as its hybrid with ivy and various varieties.
3. Fatsia variety Spider's Web large leaves unusual bluish-green color. They are decorated with silvery-white spots located along the veins.
4. Fatsia Tsumugi Shibori is similar to the Spider's Web variety. But this variety has larger spots and more of them, so White color predominates over green.
5. Fatsia Variegata is a plant with green foliage edged with an uneven cream or white stripe.
6. Fatsia Annelise is a bright variety. Leaves with white veins are covered with golden-yellowish and light green streaks.
7. Murakumo Nishiki - fatsia with leaves that seem to be ready for autumn, the green pattern is light yellow with a lemon tint.
8. Aureimarginatis - fatsia variety with green sheet plates, framed with a gold-colored border.
9. Argenteimarginatis is a variety of indoor chestnut with variegated leaves. They are green in the center and have a silver-white stripe along the edge.

Varieties of indoor flowers in the photo

About care errors (table): why leaves wither or turn yellow, flowers don’t bloom and other problems

Video: about some care mistakes

Diseases, pests, preventive measures and treatment methods (table)

Reproduction

You can get new fatsias vegetatively and from seeds. Vegetative ways two: apical cuttings and layering.

Cuttings

Fatsia cuttings are carried out before spring awakening; it can be combined with pruning, or in the summer.

By layering

This method is suitable if the plant is too elongated and its stem is exposed.

1. In spring, make a circular cut on the trunk.
2. Wrap this place with damp moss, you can soak it in a stimulant, and cover it with plastic wrap or put a glass on top.
3. Keep the moss moist.
4. After 4–6 weeks, roots will form at the incision site.
5. Let them get stronger, and after a month and a half, cut the trunk just below the new roots.
6. Plant the plant in a suitable pot.
7. Cut off the remaining trunk and cover with damp moss.
8. Water it so that side shoots begin to grow.

Seeds

Fatsia seeds can be obtained at home with some effort. But most often they give low germination because they do not ripen to the end. You can purchase seed material in the store. Just keep in mind the fatsia seeds short term suitability. And it is difficult to grow this plant from seedlings.

1. Start the sowing campaign in March. Prepare the soil substrate from equal parts leaf soil and sand.
2. Before planting, check the quality of the seeds. Throw them into the water. Those that have surfaced are not suitable for sowing. Plant only those that have sunk to the bottom.
3. Plant the seeds to a depth of 0.5 cm in a moist substrate.
4. Cover the greenhouse and place it in a warm (+25) place.
5. When 2–3 young leaves appear, plant the seedlings in pots (5–7 cm in diameter).
6. Over the summer, transfer them two or three times to larger pots and nutritious soil.

Video: propagation of fatsia by cuttings

You can often find something like this in a gardener’s collection. unusual plant like Fatsia. Home care requires special attention. The name of the plant is of Japanese origin. This is due to the fact that the flower is common in Japan, as well as on the island of Taiwan. It is there that there is a fashion for small trees - bonsai. It is quite trouble-free for a plant like Fatsia. Home care rarely provides flowering.

How fatsia blooms

Small umbrella-shaped inflorescences have a greenish-yellow tint without any decorative value. The flowers exude a delicate fragrant aroma. The berries of this plant are dark blue and not suitable for consumption. Although complex care is not required for a flower like Fatsia, photo at home flowering plant It is unlikely that it will be possible to do this, since it rarely blooms at home.

Appearance

Fatsia is woody plant. It has rather large shiny leaves that stand horizontally on long petioles. The leaves are green in color, large (up to thirty-five centimeters), and have a dissected, pointed shape.

Fatsia, care

At home, this plant adapts to any conditions. A cool temperature would be preferable. She loves bright diffused light and fresh air, so it is recommended to place the flower on an east, west or south window with shade from direct sunlight.

The room in which the fatsia is located should be ventilated regularly. IN winter period the temperature should range from six to ten degrees. For the variegated form of fatsia, it is necessary to maintain a warm climate even in winter. The average temperature during this period is 16 degrees.

The plant develops quickly. If we talk about a flower like fatsia, care at home leaves only positive reviews. Indeed, no special content criteria are required for it. If you purchase small plant, then when optimal conditions in two to three years it will reach one and a half meters in height. In nature, this evergreen beauty reaches four meters. For rapid development It is recommended to freely arrange fatsia next to other plants. Those who do not like bulky flowers should put Fatsia in the shade. In this case, it will grow very slowly and will delight the owner for a long time with its compact appearance.

Watering

You need to be very careful with watering of this plant. In order to prevent fatsia leaves from falling off, home care involves following certain rules. First of all, you should remember that you cannot flood the plant. This will cause the leaves to become soft and limp and may turn yellow. Even a single overdrying of the soil can lead to lifeless hanging leaves. In this case, you can straighten them by tying them to special spacers to their previous horizontal position. From insufficient watering or dry air, the leaves wrinkle and their tips turn yellow. In this regard, from spring to autumn, the plant should be watered abundantly and sprayed frequently. In winter, during the dormant period, watering should be moderate.

Possible difficulties

In order for Fatsia to develop well, home care should prevent the disease. The most common pests that cause disturbances in plant development are scale insects and aphids. When signs of pests appear, plants are treated with fungicides. The most effective drug from most of them is Actellik. To achieve greater effect, treatment is carried out up to three times.

The most unpleasant disease that affects Fatsia is botrytis, or gray mold. It occurs when kept in a damp and cool place. The stem of the infected plant becomes brown, begins to rot, and becomes covered with a gray tint. Eventually, the diseased flower rots entirely.

To prevent Fatsia from dying, home care should include a set of timely measures to eliminate gray rot. To do this, you need to carefully remove the damaged parts of the trunk, and place the plant itself in a well-ventilated place with low air humidity.

If the leaves of a plant are wrinkled, you should pay attention to the air humidity. When it's dry, spraying it daily will help. If the plant is located in direct sunlight, the cause of leaf wrinkling is sunburn. It is recommended to shade fatsia in the summer.

If the leaves turn white, spots appear on them, and the tips become brown and brittle, the reason is insufficient watering. As a rule, adult plants need a regular supply of water to the root system. In this regard, you need to remember to water large specimens more often. In order to summer heat To transform Fatsia, home care should include a weekly shower.

Fatsia leaves have become soft and limp - the overmoistening of the earthen coma is to blame. Brittle leaves are a result of dry air.

Transfer

Every year in spring, young specimens are transplanted into fresh soil. The mixture for plants is prepared based on the following proportions: turf land- 2 parts, humus - 1, peat - 1, sand - 1 part. A third of the pot must be filled with drainage made from broken shards or expanded clay. Older specimens of fatsia are replanted every three years. The largest specimens do not need replanting. All they need to do is change upper layer soil to fresh.

Thus, Fatsia can rightfully be called one of the most unpretentious houseplants. The only thing it can suffer from is improper watering. For this reason, not every flower lover’s apartment can meet this exotic guest.