How to make a brick wall. Three ways to paint a brick wall

Brickwork (or its imitation) is often used in decoration various interiors. Surface finished decorative bricks, always attracts attention and gives the room a fresh and unusual look. If previously only professional designers could create such a finish, now most home craftsmen can do it. There are several ways to decorate a brick wall, and all of them are relatively simple to implement.

Imitation brickwork Great for a high-tech room.

Materials for finishing walls under brickwork

Using real brick in interior design has a lot of disadvantages: labor-intensive masonry, narrowing of space in the room, large load on the floors. Replacing such bricks with facing ones solves almost all these problems, but costs several times more. In addition, for facing bricks must be properly cared for, otherwise appearance finishing will lose all its attractiveness. But there are other ways to decorate walls, less expensive and very effective.

Polystyrene tiles – economical material with high thermal conductivity and good noise insulation.

The following materials are used to imitate brickwork:

• ceramic tile;
• wallpaper;
• decorative plaster;
• Styrofoam.

Tile - perfect option for the kitchen or bathroom, but only if you have the skills to install it. This type of cladding is not suitable for a living room, nursery or bedroom, so you should pay attention to other materials. The simplest finishing method is brick-look wallpaper: there is a huge selection of colors in stores, and the gluing process does not require special skills. But there are also disadvantages here: the usual paper wallpaper always look dull and cheap, and washable ones look too artificial.

Imitating masonry using decorative plaster is the most profitable option. Price consumables is relatively low, the finishing technology is simple and understandable, and the end result is as realistic as possible. When done well, it is almost impossible to distinguish imitation from real bricks. For greater effect, you can add a coloring pigment to the plaster.

It works well to finish a brick wall using thin polystyrene foam or ceiling tiles. This material is easy to use, light in weight and low in price, so making an imitation of masonry on a wall out of it is not at all difficult. Instead of polystyrene foam or polystyrene, many craftsmen use blanks made of wood, gypsum, and even tile adhesive, but wood requires tools, and gypsum bricks require molds.

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Wall finishing with decorative plaster

For gluing decorative stone Regular tile adhesive will do.

A quick and convenient finishing method is to apply decorative plaster. The main advantage here is that there is no need to level out minor surface defects, because a layer of plaster will completely hide them. To work you will need:

• primer;
• paint brush or roller;
• gypsum plaster;
• spatula 10 cm wide;
• coloring pigment;
• dry rag;
• small stick.

To form seams in real brickwork, a special tool is used - a jointer, but for plaster, ordinary one is also suitable wooden stick, a broken pencil, a ballpoint pen without a refill, or something similar that can be used to draw an even and neat seam. They begin work by preparing the surface: remove from the wall old finishing, seal the cracks in it, clean it of dust and thoroughly prime it. The decoration mixture is prepared after the primer has dried: the dry plaster is diluted with water in the proportions indicated on the package, and then the dye is added. If you plan to paint the walls after finishing, then it is not necessary to add pigment to the plaster.

The thickness of gypsum bricks should be about 5-7 cm.

First, mix a small amount of the composition in order to have time to treat a square meter of surface before the mass hardens. The finished solution should slowly slide off the spatula without forming lumps. If this is the consistency, then you can start applying. Using a spatula or trowel, spread the mortar onto a section of the wall, and then level and slightly smooth the surface. You shouldn’t make it perfectly smooth, because natural brick rough, and sometimes even has small defects.

Now the most important thing is the formation of the brickwork. The sizes of the bricks may be different, but it is desirable that they do not differ too much from the standard ones and the wall looks as realistic as possible. You can draw seams under a ruler, creating a clear pattern, or you can do it arbitrarily - it all depends on the preferences of the master. Lines are drawn along fresh, uncured plaster with a dry stick, creating a pattern of brickwork, and excess mortar is removed with a rag. Then the next section is processed, and so on until the end. After this, the surface must be completely dry, otherwise further processing may damage the pattern.

The dried plaster is sanded sandpaper to remove excess material and straighten the seams, and then wipe with a dust cloth. Before painting decorative masonry Cover with a layer of primer, so the paint adheres much better. If you want to give the finish a more realistic look, then individual bricks can be painted a different color. Sometimes they do it differently: first they cover the wall with a layer of gray plaster, level and smooth the surface well. Then a solution is prepared with the addition of red or brown pigment, it is evenly applied over the previous layer, and then the seams are drawn under the ruler. The red plaster is removed at the joints, resulting in neat bricks separated by gray lines.

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Imitation of foam masonry

Tools for preparing the wall surface and installing imitation brickwork.

It’s also easy to create a decorative one from polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam. First you need to prepare everything you need for work:

• sheets of polystyrene foam without a pattern;
• felt-tip pen;
• ruler;
• sharp thin knife;
• tile adhesive;
• paint.

At the first stage, it is necessary to mark the sheets of foam plastic: draw even bricks with a side of 7x15 cm under the ruler with a felt-tip pen, making sure to make allowances for the seams. Next, use a knife to cut the foam along the markings and begin preparing the wall.

Image 1. To create roughness and cracks, you can use a drill with drill bits of different diameters.

Remove the old finish, eliminate defects, carefully level the wall and cover it with a primer. Apply a layer of glue to a clean and dry surface. ceramic tiles and put bricks on it; The gaps between adjacent elements should be about 2 mm. When all the bricks are glued, you can paint the wall, filling the seams well with paint and avoiding drips.

For greater decorativeness, small chaotic indentations and scratches are made on the surface of the foam blanks, which, after painting, give the masonry a slightly worn, but very natural look. The easiest way to create such a texture is with a concave tin strip, which can be cut from an ordinary tin can. Properly selected colors – dark gray, brown and red – add realism. IMAGE 1

• Inexpensive way. Such coverage will not require financial investments.
• Eco-friendly. The plaster does not contain harmful impurities.
• Simple. No special skills or tools are needed here. Just a little care and patience.

Marking

Before starting the main work, it is necessary to prepare the surface - remove the old finish. If it is not level, level it with plaster and cover it with a primer. Another option is the dry leveling method. However, if the area of ​​the room is small, this method is unlikely to be suitable, because the sheets will “eat up” the space.

Please note: if the apartment is in a new building, you can start decorating the room no earlier than 1 year after the completion of the house. Otherwise, the walls may shrink and cracks may form.

Once the surface is prepared for work, you can begin marking. And here there are two options.

First: some construction stores sell a ready-made mesh form; this method is simpler, but also more expensive. Second: independent marking. How to make an imitation brick wall with your own hands?

• Standard size brick - 250 mm x 65 mm, the size of the joints is about 15 mm, although this is not important, and they, of course, can be changed.
• Cut a brick out of cardboard with seams on the sides.
• Mark the center of the brick, also taking into account the seams. You should get a blank like in the photo below.

Marking starts from the left corner. Provide in advance for indentations from the ceiling and floor - at least 5 cm. First, you can mark out the area according to the lattice principle, marking a grid, and then draw half of the brick through the row. Trace the resulting stones and you will have standard brickwork.

It is convenient to use 15 mm thick masking tape. Glue the jumpers overlapping, be sure to leave “tails” at the edges so that the tape can be easily removed later.

Marking

How to make imitation brickwork on a wall as natural as possible? There are two ways to create such a masonry.

Individual elements

The size of the bricks is exactly the same - 250 mm x 60 mm. If you have a sheet of expanded polystyrene (foam plastic) in front of you, then the optimal width of one product is about 12 mm.
The material is easy to cut with ordinary construction knife with a sharp blade. In this case, each detail will have its own texture.

Sheet

Instead of individual bricks, you can make decorative leaf, imitating masonry. Since foam melts easily, a soldering iron is used for this. They are passed along the seams, controlling the depth of pressure. Be especially careful with the corners - they should be smooth, without rounding or bevels.

I must say, this method is suitable for those who are already familiar with the material; It's unlikely to be done perfectly the first time. We need to practice.

When burning, be sure to wear a mask and ventilate the room well! When melting, foam releases harmful fumes.

Laying

They always start installing bricks from the corner, then lay door and window openings.

You can attach them directly to the wall using liquid nails, or to a sheet of drywall or plywood. Subsequently, such a sheet can be fixed with self-tapping screws. This method is more convenient, since the sheet lies on the floor, the work is carried out on a horizontal surface.

Painting and decor

Some leave the texture of foam plastic, while others cover it with putty to give the stone a special structure.

In any case, the material must be primed before painting. Choose your paint carefully, it can ruin the polystyrene foam. Solvent-free paints, such as water-based paints, are suitable. The result can be secured with matte acrylic varnish.

Learn more about creating foam bricks in the video below.

Making an imitation of tiles

Today, you can find several tile options in a hardware store. This is not only standard ceramic, but also modern soft - elastic clinker based on polyacrylic.

Working with elastic clinker

• Very flexible material, fits on any surface, goes around even sharp corners.
• Easy to cut with long scissors and can be cut into any shape.
• UV and frost resistant, does not fade, breathes.
• Suitable for both finishing interior spaces, and the facades of houses.

The surface preparation in this case is the same: it is primed. The difference is in the materials used. Most often, clinker is placed on tile adhesive, but the seller may advise you to purchase a special one from the manufacturer. This composition will make the tile more stable and hard.

1. First, the rows are marked using a simple pencil and ruler.
2. The glue is applied with a notched trowel; a layer of 2-3 mm is enough. There is no need to completely cover the entire area! Fill in small areas so that the adhesive does not have time to dry.
3. Apply the tiles carefully, without pressing hard. Making half a brick is easy, just cut it with scissors.
4. After the main stage is completed, the glue on the seams is smoothed with a thin brush slightly moistened with water.
5. Elastic clinker does not require the use of grout. This is an undoubted advantage of the material.

Features of solid materials

• Gypsum rigid tiles are cheaper than analogues. However, its main disadvantage is that it is not at all resistant to humidity, so it cannot be installed in rooms with an aggressive environment, for example, in the bathroom or kitchen. However, there are also products with protective coating.
• Another view - from. Inexpensive yet durable, it is often used to create decor both indoors and outdoors. Interestingly, you can even make it yourself. The solution is simply poured into a special form.
• Finally, the third type is clinker tiles. It has the highest operating characteristics, but the price is appropriate. It is rarely purchased for interior decoration.

Installation

The principle of working with rigid material is similar to working with elastic material. The main difference is that hard bricks will have to be cut, and this cannot be done without the appropriate tools. You will need a circular saw or Grinder with disk.

In addition, after installation it is necessary to seal the seams with a special compound. This must be done very carefully so as not to get on the stones, because it is difficult to scrub off.

In general, if you have experience laying tiles, there will be no problems.

The more light that hits a brick wall, the more natural it should look. Illuminated decorative Brick wall attracts attention, and if done carelessly or poorly, it cheapens the interior.

Choose a color based on the overall decor of the room. IN warm interiors Standard terracotta is suitable, cold gray - for more brutal ones. By the way, it is better to add a little ocher to neutral white, so it will not seem flat and lifeless.

• Material prepared by: Anastasia Khripunkova

Decorating the walls inside an apartment, as well as the facade of a house, with decorative brick or a material that imitates brickwork has never gone out of fashion. However, unfortunately, it is not always possible to use real brick for interior decoration, as it will weigh down the floor slabs of multi-story buildings. In addition, making ideal masonry “for jointing” is not so easy, because this requires at least minimal experience as a mason.

Much easier to use others interesting ways that allow you to achieve the desired result. Brick imitation can be produced in different ways and, which is typical, can be installed by anyone, even a novice finisher.

Main types of brick imitation and technology for working with them

Considering the fact that brickwork has remained popular for decades and is used to reproduce various interior styles, manufacturers did not miss this moment and developed several types of material that can replace natural brick.

Such finishing is made in different forms - it can be flexible or rigid tiles, having the size end side bricks, or large Wall panels, immediately covering an entire section of the wall, made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC), MDF or fiberglass cement.

Flexible brick-like tiles

Flexible tiles that imitate brickwork are great for interior and exterior wall decoration. This modern material is not only a decorative, but also a protective coating for surfaces and has a number of positive qualities– this includes resistance to external atmospheric influences, impact resistance, vapor permeability, inertness to microorganisms, as well as ultraviolet radiation, and, of course, an aesthetic appearance and a fairly simple processing and installation process.

“Flexible brick” is easy to install not only on straight, level surfaces, but also perfectly bends around external and internal corners premises.

This material is used to decorate walls inside apartments and houses, in particular, in rooms such as hallways, corridors, kitchens, living rooms, loggias. It is also suitable for external, facade walls. It is very convenient to use such tiles for cladding columns, fireplaces, small architectural forms, as well as in any areas where such a design is planned. Regardless of the complexity of the surface configuration.

The tiles can be used to finish the entire wall or attached to individual sections. Since the material has many colors, it is possible to make the finish monochromatic or use tiles of different shades, harmoniously combining them with each other.

Installation of “flexible brick”

Installing flexible tiles does not require complex electrical tools. You will only need to prepare:

— an even spatula 120÷150 mm wide – for mixing and applying glue;

- a notched trowel with a ridge 4 mm high and 150÷200 mm wide;

— building level 1000÷1500 mm long;

— a ruler 1000÷1500 mm long;

- colored marking cord for marking lines;

- a simple pencil;

- powerful scissors;

- a brush 12 mm wide for leveling the mortar in tile joints.

For materials other than tiles, you will need a primer for the walls and a special

For installation, a dry construction mixture can be used - ordinary tile adhesive, but it is more convenient to use a ready-to-use composition packaged in plastic buckets. In any case, when purchasing tiles, you should immediately consult with the seller regarding the adhesive suitable for a particular material.

In order for the masonry to be smooth and neat, the wall must be put in order before installation, by cleaning and leveling its surface. After the leveling solution has dried, the wall must be primed with an antiseptic composition, which will give the materials higher adhesion and will not allow mold to appear under the cladding layer in the future. Once the primer has dried, you can proceed to installing the tiles.

In addition, you need to take into account that installation work must be carried out at a temperature not lower than +5 degrees, otherwise adhesion between the materials will be insufficient, and the tiles may subsequently begin to peel off from the surface of the walls.

Prices for imitation bricks

brick imitation

• The first step is to outline the wall surface into even zones along which glue will be applied and the tiles will be fixed. If the entire wall is to be covered, then it is necessary to beat off the upper and lower limiting lines.
• The glue is not applied to the entire surface, but to individual, marked zones of about 1000×500 mm. The layer of adhesive mass should be approximately 2÷3 mm - it is applied using an even spatula, and then distributed over the entire area to be covered with a notched trowel to create grooves of the same height.

• The tiles are glued in order, and if the first row starts with a whole tile, then the second - with half or one third of the “brick”, depending on the desired location of the masonry seams.

Dividing the “flexible brick” into pieces at any angle, without using any power tools, is quite simple: it is marked and cut along the line with ordinary scissors.

• Seams between rows may have different thickness- this parameter will depend on the preference of the master, but usually the gap is left at 10÷12 mm. The selected size of the seams is taken into account immediately when marking the wall into zones for installation.

• “Flexible brick” easily bends around protrusions formed at any angle, as well as internal corners or rounded walls, if they exist on the surface to be finished.

• When the intended surface area is covered with tiles, you need to immediately level the mortar in the horizontal and vertical joints, otherwise the glue will set and it will not be possible to accurately level it. Smoothing the solution is carried out using a relatively thin brush of medium hardness, slightly moistened with water.

The fact that flexible tiles do not require additional purchase of grout for joints can also be safely called an advantage of the material, since you do not have to incur extra costs.

Video: flexible facing tiles with excellent clinker brick imitation

Rigid facing tiles “brick-like”

Clinker tiles

Clinker tiles are used for internal lining walls not as often as other types of material imitating brick, as it has a fairly high price. It is more often purchased for facades, given its highest performance characteristics. However, it can also be used for interior decoration, especially if you are going to cover a stove or fireplace.

It is made from natural highly plastic clays, without the use of artificial dyes and plasticizers. The raw materials are pressed and fired at high temperatures, reaching up to + 1150÷1200 degrees. Thanks to this, clinker tiles are environmentally friendly pure material, which has unsurpassed natural qualities of durability and reliability, which are multiplied during the production process.

Like finishing material Great for both indoor and outdoor facade cladding. It has a very low moisture absorption coefficient, high frost resistance and wear resistance, inertness to temperature changes and almost any chemical influences.

The decorative effect of clinker tiles is not inferior to its physical and technical characteristics, since the variety of design options allows you to choose a material to suit every taste and style of the interior of the premises or the facade of the building. The finish can have a rough, glazed or natural, untreated surface. Tiles of different sizes and shapes are available for sale, and this factor also allows you to bring the most daring design ideas to life.

Installation of brick-like facing tiles

As mentioned above, all tiles that have a certain rigidity are mounted on the wall in approximately the same way. For the work you will need the same tools as for “flexible brick”, and in addition, to cut this material you will need to prepare a hand-held circular saw or grinder with a disc on stone.

The work of laying cladding from this type of material is more complex, since the finishing already has significant weight, and after installation it requires careful sealing of the seams between the tiles.

The cladding process is carried out in the following order:

• Laying should be done on a prepared, primed and relatively flat wall.
• Marking the wall surface is carried out in the same way as for installing any piece of cladding material: straight lines are struck along the upper and lower levels of the masonry, then it is recommended that the entire distance between them be calculated and divided horizontally so that the intended number of rows can be accommodated in this area masonry, with mandatory consideration of the thickness of the seams between them. It is especially important to carry out this process if you do not have sufficient experience in wall cladding - marking will help make the masonry perfectly even.

When marking, you need to allocate 10÷12 mm to each of the seams between the rows.

• Next, an adhesive mass is prepared, which is selected in accordance with the type of material on which the finishing tiles are made.

• Laying begins from the bottom row, which is carefully verified by the building level, since the accuracy of the entire wall cladding will depend on its horizontalness. If the first row starts with a whole tile, then the second and all subsequent even rows start with ½ or ⅓ tiles.
• Next, glue is applied to the wall with a spatula in a layer of 3 ÷ 4 mm. After this, the mass is distributed with a notched trowel, which leaves grooves of equal height, ensuring the most uniform distribution of the adhesive when pressing the tile. When laying some heavy types of tiles (the same clinker), it is additionally recommended to apply glue to back side facing material. Therefore, before starting work, you should be sure to study the instructions included with the package, which clarify the nuances of installing a specific material.

• During the installation process, it is necessary to monitor the evenness of each of the laid rows.

• To ensure that the width of the seams between the tiles on the entire tiled surface is the same, some craftsmen use special calibrator tabs of the same size. They are temporarily installed between the rows, and after the adhesive mass has set, they are removed and installed again, but on the upper rows. As such calibrators, you can use a wooden bead or silicone posts.

• For cladding external corners special shaped elements are used that can disguise existing chips and make the corners neat and protected.

• Upon completion of the masonry and after the glue has completely dried, the seams between the tiles must be securely and accurately sealed using grouts specially designed for this purpose. You can fill the seams in different ways:

- Use ready-made compositions in tubes, using a special gun.

— Place the mixed grout in plastic bag, and then cut off one of its corners diagonally to the width of the seam and carefully squeeze the solution into the gaps between the rows.

Unlike PVC panels, MDF finishing is not recommended for use in rooms with high humidity, but it is perfect for leveling the walls of hallways, corridors, insulated balconies, and living rooms.

Manufacturers also thought about the design of the corners, making special shaped elements for this.

Glass fiber reinforced concrete panels

Special mention should be made of glass fiber reinforced concrete panels. This facing material is made on the basis of ordinary cement with the addition of glass fiber, which increases the strength of the slabs tens of times. For external decoration, panels can additionally be reinforced with metal elements, which increase the weight of the structure, but make it resistant to mechanical stress.

Reinforced only with fiberglass, the panels do not have a particularly intimidating weight, and their dimensions are still compact in thickness. The solution for their manufacture is colored in the mass, so the slabs are not afraid of small chips and abrasions. Some manufacturers, when producing molding sand, add colored glass fiber to it, which is slightly darker or lighter than the main tone, but is in perfect harmony with it - this gives a very interesting effect. In addition, additional application of paint to the surface of finished and assembled products is allowed.

It is well suited for interior decoration, but still more often it is used to transform the facade of the walls of a building.

Environmentally friendly slabs do not weigh down the walls, as they have a small mass. They perfectly protect surfaces from moisture and mechanical influences, as well as from the penetration of radio emissions into the house, and have a number of other attractive advantages. However, the cost of such facing materials is quite high, so not every owner can afford such finishing.

Installation of brick panels on the wall

If the wall surface is fairly flat, then the panels can be fixed to it without installing a frame structure. Lightweight PVC boards are glued to a cleaned and primed surface using one of the polymer adhesives. For example, “liquid nails” are well suited for this.

Finishing panels based on MDF has significantly more weight, therefore, in addition to the glue, it is fixed to the wall with dowels in four to five places.

Glass fiber reinforced concrete panels can be fixed to flat wall using cement-based tile adhesive.

In the case when the wall surfaces have significant distortions, they are corrected by fixing frame structure, consisting of metal guides or wooden beam, set exactly in the required plane according to the building level. Some manufacturers make special subsystems for their products, mounted on the wall or on installed frame. In this case, the panels are hung on special elements of the subsystems.

Subsystems may have different designs, therefore, when purchasing facing slabs and fastening systems to them, it is necessary to check the compatibility and availability of the attached installation instructions.

It is clear that if you plan to install panels on a subsystem, the frame elements must be located in accordance with the features of this model.

The most simple view fastenings have plastic panels, made according to the principle of siding construction. They have a special perforated mounting strip in the upper part, through the holes of which the slab is fixed to the wall or frame. In this case, horizontal sheathing elements are fixed to the wall surface, at a distance from the visible part of the slab.

Prices for facing bricks

facing brick

Installation of any facing panels begins from the bottom of the wall, usually from the corner elements.

Homemade wall design options for brickwork

If you want to save money by making an imitation of brickwork on one of the walls of an apartment or house with your own hands, you can use original techniques developed by folk craftsmen.

There are several common options that will not require special costs for the purchase of facing slabs or panels, and also do not create any special difficulties in installation:

• Self-production of polystyrene foam tiles with a thickness of 10÷12 mm. For this purpose, it is recommended to use extruded material with higher performance indicators than conventional white foam.
• Creating a brickwork relief using a stencil.
• Reproduction of the desired pattern on the wall using masking tape.

Brick-like tiles made of polystyrene foam

If you plan to use the process of melting the edges of foam plastic in the manufacture of tiles, then the work should be carried out in the open air, protected Airways using a respirator, since this material is flammable and releases toxic substances when burned and melted.

• The first step is to mark the “brickwork” on the prepared, leveled and primed wall surface using a ruler, plumb line, building level and a simple pencil. The wall is drawn on horizontal stripes And vertical partitions, determining the size of the bricks and the seams between them and the masonry rows.
• The second step is to mark the sheet of polystyrene foam into tiles of the selected size.

• Then the material is cut into individual elements with a stationery knife. The number of such blocks must correspond to the number of bricks required to decorate a certain section of the wall on which the marking was made.

• Next, in order to achieve the most reliable effect of imitation brick, you need to work on the resulting tile - this can be done in different ways. Its surface is treated with sandpaper in different or one direction, and notches and grooves are made on it with a knife or other sharp instrument. You can also use a heated soldering iron for these purposes.

Another option is to melt the edges and outside tiles using a regular lighter or torch. In this case, the front surface takes on soft, smooth shapes.

• After painting the tiles in the chosen color, its relief will be more pronounced. Paint can be applied before installing the tiles or after the wall cladding is completely completed.

Painting can be done using a brush or spraying the coloring composition from a can. The main thing is that the paint does not cause dissolution or softening of polystyrene foam - it is better not to experiment with organic-based compositions, giving preference to water-soluble ones.

• Laying foam tiles It is made according to wall markings using “liquid nails” glue, which is applied to the back surface in three points with a thickness of 3÷4 mm.
• The final stage will be the design of the seams between the bricks and rows.
• It should be noted that if the design does not provide for highlighting the tile joints with a different color, then painting the cladding can be done after the grout solution has dried.

Imitation of brickwork using a stencil

In order to make an imitation of brickwork using a stencil, you will need a cement-based mortar. It is best to purchase it in the form of ready-made dry construction mixture For plastering works, since it already has all the necessary additives that make it flexible and convenient for work.

The solution can be made independently from two materials - plaster and adhesive cement mixture, which are taken in proportions 1:1. To increase the plasticity of the solution, add a tablespoon of liquid detergent for 5 kg of finished mixture.

• The wall must be well cleaned, primed and dried.
• The solution can be applied to its surface using a wide spatula or simply with a rubber-gloved hand. The thickness of the applied layer should be equal to the thickness of the stencil strips. This moment will depend on what kind of surface the brick should have - smooth or rough.
• Further, so that the stencil does not have “stickiness” with the layer of applied solution and is easily separated from it, it should be moistened with water - this can be done with a sponge or damp cloth. If the stencil is made of rubber, then you can simply dip it in a basin of water, but in this case you need to wait for the excess to drain, otherwise excess moisture can ruin the whole work.
• After this, the stencil is pressed against the applied fresh plaster and carefully pressed so that the relief of the brickwork remains on it.
• Next, the stencil is removed and applied further, next to the just pressed relief. Here you need to try and apply it so that the masonry is even and its horizontal seams do not become distorted.
• When the relief has been applied to the entire surface, it is left until completely dry.
• After drying, the wall should be completely covered with one color - usually chosen for this light shades, since it will be easiest to apply any color to them, as well as highlight them with a dark shade or leave all the masonry seams light.

Painting imitation brickwork is already a creative process, so you can allow yourself various fantasies. In this case, of course, it is necessary to keep in mind that the chosen color will set the mood for the entire interior of the room.

Creating a brickwork relief using plaster and masking tape

For this technology of reproducing imitation brickwork on the wall, you will need the cement composition already mentioned above plaster mortar and masking tape. Some craftsmen even use electrical tape, however, it does not adhere to the wall well, while high-quality masking tape has excellent adhesion to any surface.

The width of the tape should be no more than 14 mm, and if you couldn’t find tape of that width, you’ll have to buy a wider one and carefully cut it in half right in the skein. If its edges are not perfectly smooth, this is not a big deal at all, since this factor will not affect the accuracy of the relief, but rather will even play into your hands.

• The first step is to mark the prepared surface of the wall to be tiled for brickwork.

• Next, masking tape is glued along all the marked lines on the wall. It should be secured so that the edges of the horizontal pieces of tape extend beyond the edges of the surface being designed, and the solution should not be applied to them, and the vertical pieces should be well glued to the horizontal ones, always on top of them.
• Then, on the surface of the wall, on top of the glued grid of adhesive tape, using a wide spatula, apply a solution with a layer thickness of 5-6 mm - the height of the relief will depend on this parameter. Don't apply too much thick layer, otherwise you will have to cover the seams with grout.
• After applying the solution completely to the entire wall, you can walk over it with a damp rubber glove to create a textured surface. If you plan to leave the surface of the “bricks” flat, then you should not touch the mortar layer.

• The most interesting stage in this method of simulating brickwork is removing the masking tape, since after this operation the relief of the wall will be immediately visible. Several strips of tape are picked up from one of the free sides and begin to be carefully peeled off from the wall, and as a result, in place of the peeled tape, seams are formed between the “brick tiles”. After removing the tape from the entire surface, the wall should be left until completely dry.

• It is recommended to let the wall dry before painting - this operation will make the surface more pliable for the next stage - painting, since the paint will lie flat on the surface and will not be absorbed into the plaster layer. Which shades to choose for the wall depends on the preference of the master.

Video: How to imitate brickwork using plaster and masking tape

From all of the above, we can conclude that the construction market has an oversupply of various materials that perfectly imitate brickwork or other stone surfaces. Sometimes the quality of the imitation is such that when finished, it is impossible to distinguish it from real brick by texture and color. Well, if ready-made tiles or panels do not fit into the family budget, then it is quite possible to use one of the more economical ways, and decorate the wall using affordable materials.

Many designers use brickwork as an element modern interior. If you want something similar in your apartment, it is not at all necessary to rebuild the walls or knock off the plaster from the existing ones.

Alternatively, you can use special decorative bricks. They are thinner than ordinary ones, they can rather be called decorative tiles, and are sold in most hardware stores. Since this material is not cheap, to attach these bricks to the wall, it is advisable to use the services of a master. If you decide to furnish your apartment yourself, we would like to offer you the option of simulating brickwork with your own hands - a simple and economical solution.

Materials

To create a “brick” wall, the following materials are needed:

We imitate a decorative wall “like a brick”

There are quite a large number of brick shapes and sizes, so you need to decide on the size of the rectangles that will fit into your interior. The figure below shows their main varieties, as well as the names of each side of the brick:

1. - bed;
2. - spoon;
3. - poke.

The type of brickwork used depends on which side is the front. The front side can be laid out with a spoon or a bed, or different sides can be combined in masonry.

In our instructions we will do the laying with a spoon. On cardboard we draw rectangles of the sizes we need (228 * 65 mm).

Carefully, along the drawn lines, cut the cardboard. You can do this with a stationery knife under a ruler (the cut lines will be smoother) or with scissors.

We can imitate either a solid wall or “punch a hole in it” into which to place a drawing or part of a photo wallpaper. In our example, we use a photo of a flower from a calendar, which symbolizes closeness to nature. Since our drawing will go under the masonry, we need to mark the place and stick it on the wall.

Let's return to the cut bricks. Some of them must be additionally cut into two equal parts, otherwise we will not be able to lay out the bricks in a checkerboard pattern.

We select glue. If you wish, you can experiment and use the type of glue at your discretion. This can be either regular PVA glue or special glue for vinyl wallpaper. Through trial and error, we found the following option: PVA construction adhesive and “liquid nails.” It is irrational to use them separately from each other: “liquid nails” are quickly consumed, and PVA dries slowly and cannot immediately provide reliable gluing. But together they complement each other. Immediately coat the entire surface, except the corners, with PVA glue. We put drops in the corners " liquid nails", they will immediately fix the brick in the right place, and after a day the glue will fix the entire surface in place.

Let's start our laying. To attach the first brick, it is most convenient to use the lower left corner of the wall.

The masonry must look believable, so we must repeat every detail. Before you begin gluing the next brick, you need to make an indent to the right to simulate a seam. A distance of 7-10 mm will be sufficient.

When laying out the second row, we retreat the same amount to the bottom. We start laying with half a brick.

Using the same principle, we glue the remaining bricks, leaving a window for the drawing. After completion, the wall should dry. Depending on the type of glue used, this may take different time. In our case, the PVA glue will dry within a day.

After the glue has completely dried, the bricks should stick well to the wall. And we can start next stage– creating a textured surface. To do this, you can use thick multi-layer paper napkins. They will help us hide the corrugated structure of the cardboard, as well as defects that arise during gluing.

Using a brush or foam sponge, apply a thick layer of PVA construction adhesive to the bricks.

Using your hands, crumple the napkin into a ball and then straighten it back out. We have to greatest number folds

Cover the glue-coated bricks with a napkin and apply PVA again.

Carefully draw the gaps left for the seam with a brush. You can do this while covering with a napkin, row by row.

Using this principle, we cover all the bricks with napkins. Don't forget about the seams between them.

The PVA should dry within a day, after which you can start painting the wall.

Painting a brick wall

The color scheme is selected according to your taste. Since we decided to imitate red brick, we need to create the color we need. To do this, mix orange, white, red and black paints and get the color of natural brick.

We paint our bricks. Real red brick has a slightly porous structure; we can achieve this effect if we apply the paint not with a brush, but with a foam sponge.

As a result, you and I get a very believable imitation of brickwork. There are no special difficulties during the work process; no professional training is required. The materials used can be bought at any store and done to your liking.

One of fashion trends in the decoration of the premises - a brick wall. Good for those who have a brick house. All they need is to knock off the plaster and slightly “tamper” what is available. What should the rest of us do? There are wallpapers and brick-like tiles, but not all of them are plausible, and good ones cost almost as much as a natural brick wall. The best option in this case - a self-made imitation brick for interior decoration. Moreover, “bricks-tiles” can be made separately, or you can decorate the entire wall in one go.

How to make an imitation brick wall: a short list of methods

The easiest way is if you have brickwork hidden under the plaster. Beat the plaster, clean the seams, prime and paint. The result is a natural brick wall. Moreover, it will look quite “old” and vintage. Those who are less fortunate will have to imitate this brickwork. Good news The fact is that there are many ways, inexpensive materials are available, you can make a “brick wall” on concrete, plasterboard, plywood... any more or less durable surface. By the way, most techniques take little time. So, here's how to make imitation brick for interior decoration:

This is just a short list. There are several technological differences at each point. So imitation brick for interior decoration can be done in at least a dozen ways. Let's talk about some in more detail.

sawing brick

The idea of ​​replacing expensive “brick-like” finishing tiles with bricks loosened into plates seems reasonable. But you need good quality brick, without voids, inhomogeneities, underburning or burnt areas. In general, you need an expensive brick. Or old.

An example of sawn bricks... but these are two “beautiful” parts

It is better to cut it with a water-cooled circular saw. The result will be decorative brick-like tiles in a natural color. The thickness of the tiles is at least 8-10 mm. The advantages are clear: low price, no need to paint - there is a natural color. This homemade tiles under the brick, they are then glued to the walls using regular tile adhesive.

We lay out any texture from sawn bricks. And this is for decorating external corners

But there are also disadvantages: you need a good quality brick, but you still have to find it. When cutting, the plates may break. Only two of them are obtained with a beautiful surface - the extreme ones. The rest will have to be modified manually, creating a relief. It’s tedious, dusty, time-consuming, difficult, and it’s not a fact that brick imitation will actually be learned “at the level.”

Despite all the shortcomings, this method is used. And this is, perhaps, the only option for homemade imitation of brickwork, which can be used for exterior finishing . For these purposes (finishing the facade of a building), by the way, you can cut the brick into two halves. Everything is cheaper than buying tiles.

How to draw brickwork on a wall

If “wet” or “dusty” work is not your thing, but you know how to draw at least a little, you can paint a brick wall. You will need acrylic paints, brushes, a pair of natural sponges, masking tape, and thick paper plates for mixing paints. When thinning paints, remember that acrylic paints darken as they dry. And one more thing: they dry quickly, but freshly applied ones can be removed with a clean cloth soaked in water.

First, we prepare the workplace: cover the baseboard and adjacent floor with polyethylene or old wallpaper (it’s better to fix it with tape). Use masking tape to outline the boundaries - at the top, on the sides. At the bottom there is a limiter - a plinth, although in order not to get dirty, it can be removed.

Drawing bricks on the wall

1. Paint the wall with white semi-matte acrylic paint. Leave to dry.
2. Preparing the background paint. In one of the paper plates, mix 1/6 part umber, 1/6 black paint and 4/6 titanium white. Immediately prepare a little paint, apply it to the wall using a sponge, simply applying the surface soaked in paint to the wall. You shouldn’t try to make a solid background - it should be torn and textured. In some places we apply the paint more densely, passing twice, in some places we apply a more transparent layer.

   

3. On a dry background, draw several rows of bricks by hand, not using a ruler. We focus on the standard for masonry: 25 * 6.5 cm, seam thickness - 0.8-1.2 cm. When marking, keep in mind that using this technology it is easier to make the seam a little narrower by painting it, than to try to widen it later.
4. To paint “bricks,” you need to mix ocher and sienna in different proportions, obtaining different shades of “brick” colors - from yellowish-orange to brownish. We got some shade, painted several “bricks” in random places. We mixed a new batch and painted over the other bricks. We apply the paint with a brush, without trying to get a uniform surface or a dense layer of paint - the background layer is visible. The edges of the “bricks” also should not be smooth.
5. For a traditional red-brown color, to sienna and red ocher, add a little light ocher and a little white. You can paint several bricks in a row with this color.

   

6. One more shade - to the above composition we will add brown mars and a little water. Apply with a brush or sponge - as desired.
7. If you add white and burnt sienna to ocher and sienna, you get another color.
8. We paint all the bricks in random order with these shades.
9. We dilute white and a little ocher, add water. Apply the composition with a sponge, acting as a tampon.
10. Take an old toothbrush and burnt bone paint. We dip the bristles in paint and spray them on the wall, imitating the heterogeneity and texture of clay bricks.

    

11. We add volume to the bricks: dip a thin brush in a mixture of umber and white. We bring all the bricks from below and to the right or left. Everything is on one side, depending on where the window is located (on the side opposite the window). The thickness of the liner varies, since the masonry and the bricks themselves cannot be ideal.

It takes much longer to describe than to do it all. A beginner can draw about 30 squares of imitation brickwork in a day. For maximum verisimilitude, there are several secrets, which we will discuss below.

Final touches

To ensure that the brickwork painted on the wall is as close to natural as possible, there are several little secrets:

With some skill and effort, you can ensure that the painted brickwork looks like the natural one. The main rule: imperfection and heterogeneity.

Imitation brick for interior decoration using plaster mortar

The general idea is simple: a layer of plaster or tile adhesive is applied to the wall, and a seam is cut/pressed into it. After processing the edges of the “bricks” and seams, and painting, the result is a semblance of brickwork of varying degrees of plausibility. Everything is simple, but there are significant differences and nuances.

What and how to make a solution from

The first question that arises is: what kind of solution is needed and from what? There are many recipes. Here are some options:

Regardless of what you make the solution from, it should be semi-dry and should not leak under any circumstances. It will not need to be leveled, so its plasticity is not important to you, and the adhesive ability will be provided by additives - tile adhesive and PVA. To adjust the consistency, add water in small portions.

Surface preparation

The wall on which we will make imitation brickwork does not have to be even. It should be free of dust and dirt, crumbling fragments and particles. This is where the requirements end.

The process of preparing the wall is a careful approach: first they make markings

Before starting work better wall prime. The type of primer depends on the substrate. If the wall is concrete or loose, walk with “concrete contact”. It will bind crumbling particles and create an adhesive surface on which any composition fits perfectly. If we decorate plywood, gypsum board or other similar material, you can do without a primer, or you can coat it with diluted PVA.

Technology No. 1. We use thin tape to draw seams

First, we paint the wall to match the color of the seams between the bricks. Some are planning gray-brown, others white-gray. We cover the wall with paint of a suitable shade. Using narrow masking tape (1 cm or slightly less/more), apply markings to the prepared base. The tape will mark the seams between the bricks, so stick it horizontally, at a distance of about 6-6.5 cm from each other. When the horizontal lines are pasted, glue the short vertical ones. They are 23-25 ​​cm apart from each other - this is the length of a standard building bricks, but decorative ones can be shorter.

Now we take the solution and apply it to the wall. The layers are unequal, the thickness is 0.3-0.5 cm. We apply it “as it turns out”, without achieving a flat surface, smooth transitions... As it turns out, so be it. We only avoid obvious bald spots through which the wall shines. We filled the area, took a flat trowel (grater), and slightly smoothed out what we got. Leave until slightly dry: so that when you press with your finger, the composition is slightly pressed through.

We pry up the ends of the horizontally pasted strips of adhesive tape in any place (when gluing, leave the “tails”), pull, removing along with the solution adhering to the tape. We remove the entire mesh. The edges of the “bricks” turn out to be torn and uneven. This is fine. Even good.

Take a toothbrush or paint brush with fairly stiff bristles. Use a toothbrush to go along the seams, removing any remaining mortar. At the same time, the edges of the bricks are rounded. Then we take a wider brush and use it to go over the surface, adding naturalness and removing too sharp edges. Leave to dry at room temperature for approximately 48-72 hours. Do not force dry it - it will crack. Although, if you want to have cracks... If the composition was not painted in bulk, it's a matter of painting.

Technology No. 2: cutting the “seams”

This method of simulating brick for interior decoration takes less time: no tape is required. Apply the solution to the surface of the wall. Everything is exactly the same as described above, only the layer can be thicker - up to 0.8-1 cm. After waiting until the solution “sets” a little, we mark the seams. Here again there are options:

The second option is more accurate. But you have to be careful not to make it too smooth. Although, due to the fact that the hand trembles, the seam “walks” slightly, which gives a more believable look.

Having made the horizontal seams, we proceed to cutting the vertical ones - also by hand. The width of the bricks is about 6 cm, the length is around 23-25 ​​cm. Having finished, we wait for 12-14 hours. Until the composition has set enough to be picked out. When the concrete begins to crumble under strong pressure, take a wide screwdriver (the usual one with a “spatula”) and use it to pick out the solution between the cut strips.

In progress…

When the seams are cleaned, take a stiff brush or brush and remove the remaining mortar and crumbs. The bristles on the brush should be fairly stiff. If the solution is dry, you can try more drastic measures - a wire brush.

Technology No. 3: saw seams

This method of making imitation brickwork for interior decoration differs only in that instead of a knife we ​​take an old hacksaw blade.

After waiting until the solution sets and does not slide, we use a saw to mark the boundaries of the seams. Here you choose one of the methods described above. But you don’t have to wait any longer: use a hacksaw to paint out the seams little by little. Long horizontal seams are quick to make, but vertical ones are not very convenient, since the fabric is not very suitable for short distances.

This method is good because there is no danger of “over-drying” the solution. You can do the “jointing” as soon as the solution hardens a little. In this state, it is easier to round the edges of the bricks, giving them a natural “old age”. The downside is that you have to get used to it, otherwise you might end up doing something bad.

Making a mold for casting brick tiles from plaster

Another imitation brick for interior decoration in an apartment or house can be cast: you can make it yourself gypsum tiles in the form of bricks. To do this, an impression is taken from interesting specimens of bricks (a mold is made to form an artificial finishing stone), and then a gypsum solution is poured into it. The resulting tiles are used for wall decoration. This technology is good because it allows you to prepare several forms in which you can make bricks different colors for different rooms.

We find bricks of interesting shape and several almost ordinary ones, but with various minor defects. We will use them to cast the mold. It is desirable that there be at least a dozen of them, or better yet, more. “Artificial brickwork” will be more varied.

On the side that we will “multiply”, apply grease or heated wax mixed with kerosene. This is necessary so that the silicone does not stick to the surface. When everything is dry, apply a layer to the treated side silicone sealant. The layer thickness is 1-1.5 cm. Leave until the silicone is completely polymerized (the time depends on the type, it is written on the package).

When the silicone has hardened, take the foam and coat the mold without removing it from the brick. After the foam has hardened, remove the brick and level the bottom of the mold so that it stands level. Can be used by filling with gypsum mortar. It sets quickly; if you have a dozen molds, in 2-3 days you can make tiles for a couple of squares simulating a brick wall. By the way, gypsum mortar can be painted in bulk. Then new cracks and chips are not a problem - just like a brick.

How and what to paint

IN Lately The white brick wall has become fashionable. If you are going to do just this, there are no problems: apply the seams with a brush, use a roller to apply the surface. If you want something that is not too monochromatic, add a little tint to the base color composition - gray, brown, yellow... or even pink or blue. Paint with this paint. Add more white to the remainder and add highlights with this lighter composition using a semi-dry roller, sponge, or brush. If desired, you can apply the top “shadows” with silver, bronze, adding a little gold. Here's how you like it best.

Imitation brick in the bedroom - looks very stylish

If the seams in the imitation brickwork should be darker, go over them first with a brush. Then, using a roller with short or medium pile, we paint the very surface of the bricks. If you take a roller with even shorter pile, dip it in paint of a different shade (lighter or darker - it depends), in bronze, silver, gold, etc. and with this roller, quickly, lightly touching, paint over the most protruding parts, you will get an even more interesting effect. In general, you can experiment. With this approach, imitation brick becomes a design object and the main interior decoration.