Round timber house projects. A house made of round solid logs - the advantages of a log house

There are two types of round log: rounded log and log manual cutting. Before construction begins, a rounded log undergoes machine preparation: it is given the same diameter along its entire length. A hand-cut log is cut down on a plot, after which only the bark is removed from it, and in this natural form, with all the knots and natural irregularities, it goes into the log house.

In comparison with a rounded log, a hand-cut log has a number of undeniable advantages, so it is important to understand what kind of log it is made from. round log you will build your house

Rounded log

When processing a rounded log, its outer, hardest layer is removed. Therefore, such a log is susceptible to cracking. Bowls in overcuts (places where logs intersect at the corners of a log house) are also cut by a machine and made into simple floors round shape; After drying, through cracks inevitably appear in them. However, the main advantages of a wooden house made of round logs are the affordable price and speed of construction.

Hand-cut log

Since these logs are cut in the forest and do not receive any special preparation other than stripping the bark, they go into the log house in the most original form, with all the knots and natural patterns.

There are two approaches to this type of log: some plan it, and we just sand its surface, which allows us to maintain a hard outer layer and reduces the possibility of potential cracking. We can make log houses from round logs into a claw, but we consider cutting into a bowl to be more reliable and durable; The key advantage of hand-cut logs over rounded ones is the design of the bowl: we use an additional tenon, which, after shrinking the house from a turnkey round log, allows us to avoid cracks in the corners.

The main mistakes in the construction of log buildings wooden houses.

Log houses They have been faithfully serving people for thousands of years. Solid wood houses give their owners the incomparable pleasure of living in a comfortable microenvironment. Solid wood has a high heat capacity (2.4 times higher than that of ceramic brick), which makes it possible to smooth out daily temperature fluctuations. Also, the porous structure of wood allows you to naturally regulate the humidity in the room through cycles of absorption and evaporation of moisture. The log house is relatively resistant to movements of the soil and foundation. The wooden surface often does not require any additional treatment other than sanding and coating with antiseptics to create beautiful interiors.

However, only properly built wooden houses will provide comfort to their owners. The construction of a log house requires high carpentry qualifications at the 6th category level. Without experience and qualifications, it is almost impossible to cut down a wooden house without mistakes. And errors during construction can negate all the advantages of a log house. Houses built with errors are easy to recognize: builders or owners have to additionally insulate them and sheathe them outside and inside in order to hide defects and eliminate through-blowing of locks in the corners and crown joints. One of modern options houses made of solid wood, practically devoid of the disadvantages of log houses, are houses made of laminated veneer lumber. Thanks to the features of this technology, blowing through seams and cracking of wood in such houses is practically impossible.

In this article we will briefly touch on the most common mistakes in the construction of log houses.

  1. Errors in preparing a log house.

Mistakes when choosing materials for construction.

According to GOST 9463-88 “Round coniferous timber”, round timber from pine, spruce, fir and larch is suitable for building houses. Larch is the most expensive material, the hardest and most resistant to decay. Spruce has a lower density, excessive knots and is prone to more cracking. The optimal tree for building a house is pine aged from 80 to 120 (140) years, grown in the northern regions (Arkhangelsk, Angarsk, Karelia) on dry sandy soil, at least 24 meters high. The best pine logs have a dark red or yellow-red core color, indicating a high density of wood. More loose varieties have a pale yellow core. The forest of winter felling, contrary to folk legends, actually has more high humidity sapwood (25-50% higher than in summer), a larger amount of starch and, therefore, is more easily affected by fungi. You can identify round timber from winter felling using a qualitative starch test: a stroke is applied to the debarked wood with an iodine pencil. If the stroke turns blue, this means a tree cut down in winter.
For construction, timber with such defects as mushroom blue and colored sapwood stains (with a depth of no more than 1/20 - 1/10 of the end diameter), wormholes (no more than 5-10 pieces for 1 linear meter), side cracks from shrinkage no more than 1/20 -1/5 of the end diameter, trunk curvature no more than 1-2% (1-2 cm per 1 linear meter). Logs used for construction must have a slope (thinning of the log towards the top) of no more than 0.8 cm per 1 m of length.

Rot (sapwood, rotten, heartwood) and tobacco knots (decomposed brown or white knots that crumble under load) are not allowed in round timber.

The minimum diameter of round timber for a residential building is 22-24 cm. The width of the grooves should be at least half the diameter of the log, and in the northern regions it can be increased even more. With a smaller groove size, the consumption of timber is reduced, but the thickness of the inter-crown seams becomes smaller, and the house becomes colder.
Cutting corners can be done without a residue “into the paw” or with a residue - “into the corner”. Cutting into a corner makes the connections more reliable and the frame more stable. In addition, the allowance of wood better protects the lock from the effects of atmospheric factors. Cutting “in the paw” is usually used for subsequent cladding of corners or the entire log house. For residential buildings, the device for connecting logs in the corners must have internal locking elements that prevent through blowing of the corner (connecting logs “into a bowl” with a pre-stop or “into a block” with a pre-stop). Due to its geometry (an inverted bowl), cutting “in the middle” allows for better moisture removal and faster drying of the joint. Cutting internal locking elements requires a highly qualified carpenter; such work takes more time and is more expensive. Otherwise, the corners of a residential building will be protected from blowing only by tow ( thermal insulation material). This is one of the main disadvantages of houses made of rounded logs, where log connections are made industrially without additional internal locking elements.

Moisture content of timber for construction. SP 64.13330.2011 “Wooden structures” allows the use of raw solid wood for the construction of houses with humidity up to 40% at following conditions: the predicted shrinkage of wood should not interfere with the structure and pliability of the joints, and the timber itself must be subjected to antiseptic treatment and conditions must be provided for it to dry out and be protected from moisture. It is optimal if the log house dries out, installed in place on the foundation and under the roof. Drying period from 6 months to 1 year. If the log house stood with the seller in piles (individual parts of the log house with 5 crowns each, convenient in height for processing) without a roof for 6-12 months, then with a high probability this means that the tree will be affected by rot. It is permissible to purchase log houses that have stood under the roof.

It is important to understand that the higher the humidity of the timber, the greater the shrinkage of the tree, and the wider the inter-crown cracks and cracks in corner joints will open (especially with cutting defects), the more the tree will crack.

Why don't they cut down houses from dry wood? Dry wood has greater density and hardness, and is much more difficult to process. The rounded log is subjected to chamber drying after processing upon request. However, kiln-dried wood can warp as it reaches equilibrium moisture content on a construction site. They use Finnish and Karelian dead pine of equal moisture content in construction, but this is already an exclusive product. In addition, a correctly assembled frame made of raw wood, when dried in the assembled state, “sits” in place, reducing the size of the through cracks and, accordingly, the coefficient of blowing through the walls. It is important to know that wood can be painted (not treated with antiseptics) only if its moisture content does not exceed 15%. Otherwise, the wood will crack severely when drying. Therefore, treatment of log houses is only permissible with vapor-permeable antiseptics. Treating a damp (damp) log house with a vapor-proof antiseptic will also lead to cracking of the wood as it dries.

For dowels (dowels), only dry (no more than 12%) straight-grained wood without knots should be used. Birch dowels must be antiseptic.

Fastening logs to metal elements (pieces of reinforcement, long nails) is not recommended, since moisture accumulates at the media interface, and the metal elements become centers of biological destruction of wood. Typically, unscrupulous builders use reinforcement to fasten and “tension” crooked logs, which then leads to disruption of the normal shrinkage of the log house, the formation of cracks and bulging of individual logs. It is strictly forbidden to pierce the corner joints of logs with nails, as this will interfere with the movement of the tree during shrinkage and will contribute to the formation of cracks (after the wood shrinks, the nails will rise above the surfaces).

Types of timber processing for construction.
The most traditional for Russia is round timber. In Scandinavia, they use a carriage (from the Norwegian “lafteverk” - log house) - logs hewn on two opposite sides onto two edges, or a semi-carriage - hewn onto one edge with inside logs The cost of a hewn log house can be 35-50% higher than a log house made of round timber. When processing round timber, builders sometimes leave sections of the bast (underbark) unremoved. According to the standards, no more than 20% bast can remain on the round timber. However, it is better to remove the bast completely by sharpening (planing), since the bast contains many polysaccharides, which are an excellent feeding ground for microorganisms and insects that can damage the wood. Also, when trimming, young layers of sapwood, less resistant to damage by fungi and insects, are removed.

2. Errors in the assembly of the log house.

Waterproofing must be laid between the first casing and the foundation. Until now, for some reason, builders use for waterproofing a short-lived material based on cardboard - roofing felt, in which through holes and cracks form in 7-10 years. For waterproofing it is necessary to use modern bitumen-polymer materials with a service life of 25-50 years. Of course, a complete lack of waterproofing is unacceptable. The use of a backing board under the casing reduces heat loss through heat transfer from the log house to the foundation, and reduces the risk of biological destruction of the casing. According to the requirements of SP 64.13330.2011 “Wooden structures”, such wooden linings (pillows) should be made from antiseptic wood, mainly hardwood (oak, aspen). If necessary, backing boards can be replaced with new ones. Replacing the frame crown is a much more labor-intensive procedure. The lower crowns of the house must be protected from moisture. The greatest damage is caused by splashes of precipitation reflected from the ground and snow piled against the wall. To protect the logs from splashes and snow, it is recommended to raise the foundation above the planning mark by at least 40-50 cm.

Additional protection factors for the log house include splash-proof canopies protruding above the base, long roof overhangs (75-120 cm) and the installation of roof gutters and pipes.

Orientation of logs when laying. Every tree has a natural curvature due to wind loads as the tree grows. When laying logs, they must be laid with the curvature upward so that the loads from the overlying structures compensate for the bending of the wood. If this principle is not followed, the logs will stick out to the sides. Normally, the deviation of the crowns of chopped walls from the horizontal per 1 m of length should not exceed 3 mm.

The size of the inter-crown gaps should not exceed 1 mm. With the Russian felling system it is quite difficult to carry out this condition, since as the wood dries, the cracks open up. The Norwegian cutting system with a wedging longitudinal groove and a sliding self-jamming lock has an advantage, in which, as the wood dries, the logs shrink relative to each other, reducing the size of the inter-crown cracks.

In Russia, they traditionally continue to insulate the roof gaps of log houses with natural materials such as flax, jute, felt, moss, etc., which are not elastic, are susceptible to biological destruction, and are a breeding ground for microorganisms and insects. All of these materials require repeated caulking. Meanwhile, in Scandinavia they use it as interventional seal elastic self-expanding polyethylene foam tape, the use of which eliminates the need for repeated caulking.

If possible, you should avoid joining logs in crowns along the length. Such connections weaken the structure of the log house, and the walls of the log house may become deformed. The logs used in the structure should be as solid as possible. And you definitely shouldn’t make connections at the intersections of walls, where load concentrations occur.

Shrinkage and swelling of wood along the grain is more pronounced than across the grain. Therefore everything vertical racks and the columns must be equipped with jacking platforms and shrinkage compensators, which are tightened to the required amount of shrinkage, which can last up to 6-8 years or more. Perhaps a more aesthetically pleasing option is to install shrinkage expansion joints at the bottom of columns, where they are less noticeable.

It is not recommended to cut openings for windows and doors in the log house until the end of the first active drying period of the wood (6-12 months). During this same period, you should not hem the floor, ceiling or sheathe the walls, as this will interfere with normal ventilation and drying of the wood.

Special attention It is worth paying attention to the ventilation of the underground space when installing wooden floors. The minimum cross-sectional area of ​​one vent must be at least 0.05 m2, and total area there should be at least 1/400 of the underground area. It should be noted that this ceiling design is already archaic. In the world, they mainly use floors on the ground, which make it possible to use geoheat and avoid problems with humidity in underground space and the entry of radioactive soil gases into the house.

3. Errors in finishing a log house.

When constructing window and door openings, we should remember that the minimum distance between openings is 90 cm. The partitions must be reinforced with dowels. For installation in log houses, it is better to use windows and doors with frames at least 10 cm wide, which does not allow the window and door unit to deform during secondary caulking of the house.

The fastening of frame bars for door and window frames should be sliding - without the use of nails, since the shrinkage of a wooden house can take quite a long time. Above the windows and doors, compensation gaps are left under the heaving of the top log for shrinkage of 5-8% of the opening height.

It is better to use self-expanding elastic sealing tapes to seal window and door frames. Conventional polyurethane foam can deform when expanding window frames, and when the wood shrinks, cracks form. If it is used, then after hardening it should be covered outside from exposure to the sun and moisture with waterproofing, vapor-permeable, self-adhesive butyl rubber tape. The inside of the foam should be covered with vapor barrier tape. Unprotected foam deteriorates quickly, as in the house in the photo below.

Finishing of inter-crown seams assembled log house after the end of the first stage of intensive drying (12-24 months), using glazing beads or rope is only decorative, contributing to the waste of money and time, but not protecting the walls from blowing. Modern elastic and vapor-permeable inter-crown sealants (for example, from the domestic manufacturer SAZI) make it possible to protect inter-crown cracks from through blowing and create an aesthetically pleasing appearance of the walls.

Application of inter-crown sealant.

External insulation of a wooden house. Most often, external insulation has to be resorted to when construction defects are discovered, such as through blowing through the walls. The main and most critical mistake is the external insulation of a wooden house with vapor-tight insulation (expanded polystyrene, polyethylene foam). In this case, the tree is deprived of the opportunity to dry out and is moistened, which increases its thermal conductivity and accelerates biological destruction. Clause 8.8 of SP 23-101-2004 “Design of thermal protection of buildings” requires the placement of layers multilayer walls in such a way that the vapor permeability of materials from the inside to the outside of a heated house increases rather than decreases.

Aesthetics of a wooden house. Often lovers of wooden houses, where all the interior elements, such as walls, floors, ceilings, beams, railings, furniture are made of wood, find that, perhaps, they have gone a little overboard with the number of wooden surfaces that create the feeling of living in " wooden box" Changing furniture and painting walls comes to the rescue. However, it is wiser to plan contrasting surfaces in the house at the design stage. These can be floors, ceilings, kitchen countertops, steel elements of stairs and fences, decorative walls from natural or artificial stone.

Log houses are very popular in many countries, as they are environmentally friendly and attractive in appearance. Such buildings are most often chosen by people who want to move away from ultra-modern and futuristic design ideas. After reading this article, you will learn how to assemble and install a log house.

What it is?

When you are about to move on to considering the technology of constructing a log house, it is worth understanding what a log house is.

A log house is an environmentally friendly and beautiful structure consisting of wooden logs. Such structures do not have a floor, roof or sheathing. Simply put, a log house is a “bare” frame of a house.

Similar buildings are ideal solutions for those people who want to “put” a house or bathhouse in as soon as possible. In addition, the log house is popular because it has an affordable price. This attracts many consumers.

Features and types

Wooden houses have always been in demand, and this is explained not only by their natural appearance, but also by their good performance characteristics. Such dwellings have always been warm in the winter, and cool and as comfortable as possible in the summer.

Currently, wooden buildings are still relevant, despite big choice building materials that can be used to build reliable and durable houses. Consumers prefer a log house because its construction takes very little time, and all the necessary stages of work cannot be called too complicated.

It is quite natural that modern log houses are very different from those buildings that were common in the distant past. Today, such homes can be decorated in any style. Log buildings look especially harmonious and cozy, in which there is a fireplace and appropriate decorative elements- for example, fluffy floor carpets.

Our ancestors built wooden houses with their own hands, although working with timber cannot be considered very simple. Create today frame building You can do this not only on your own, but also by turning to a team of professionals (with special tools and extensive experience).

For the construction of a log house, coniferous wood is most often used. The most popular are pine and spruce. Such materials are not only environmentally friendly and fragrant, but also relatively inexpensive. If your budget allows, you can build a log house from alder, oak or larch. These materials will cost much more than spruce or pine, but their appearance and performance characteristics justify the high prices.

A special feature of log buildings is that they are often built in the winter season. Some experts say that such construction is more profitable, since, for example, conifer tree at low temperatures it is not susceptible to fungal attack. In addition, craftsmen claim that in winter the wood becomes more pliable and easier to process.

When planning to build a log house, you need to take its design as seriously as possible. You need to think through absolutely all the details and little things, taking into account the following distinctive features natural material:

  • Do not forget that wooden buildings always shrink over time;
  • similar materials can get out;
  • wooden blanks must be of a suitable size (there are certain restrictions);
  • The log house is not designed for too heavy loads.

If you draw up a plan for your future home with errors, then in the future the entire structure may turn out uneven and skewed. In addition, unsightly cracks and other defects may appear on the wood, which will be impossible to get rid of.

Log buildings are also distinguished by the fact that their service life can be extended if proper care is provided. If you neglect this rule, the house may not last long, quickly losing its aesthetic appearance.

Currently, there are several types of log buildings. Their names come from the number of wall coverings present in the structure. Most often in our time we find the following options for log houses.

Chetverik

This is the name of a four-walled log house, which is also called “four-walled”. It is rightfully recognized as the simplest, even uncomplicated, and therefore occurs most often.

The name of such a log house speaks for itself: it has four walls. As a rule, the quadrangle design has a square, diamond-shaped or rectangular shape.

Five-walled

As you can see from the name, there are five walls in this building. Externally, this log house is a quadrangular frame with an additional partition - the fifth wall. A five-wall structure is two 2 four-wall structures with one common overlap.

Six-walled

The six-wall is a more advanced version of the five-wall. This building differs from the above in that it has 2 partitions. Moreover, they are all located on external floors. The room is divided into 3 or even 4 rooms.

Octagon

Not every consumer knows what a log house with this name is. This design is more complex, but also more attractive. An octagon is a luxurious octahedron in which all corners form a single space.

Povalushka

The log house with this memorable name is something like a tower built into the main structure, which has a roof.

All of the listed types of log houses are the most common and frequently encountered. Of course, there are more original, unusual designs (non-standard shapes and sizes). Before use, the wood is processed manually or by machine. If the residual pieces of bark are not removed from the material, then the bars are called “barked logs.”

Log structures can differ from each other not only in the materials used and the number of walls, but also in corner connections. There are several main options for such “locks” that are used in the production of log frames.

"In the paw"

Otherwise, such a locking structure is called an angle without a remainder (refers to Russian cutting). In such a structure, logs are fastened to each other using special wooden locks, which are cut down to the end of the logs. In this case, the ends do not fall outside the walls of the log house. Similar designs have been used before, as they have an aesthetic appearance. However, buildings with an angle without a trace also have their weaknesses, which you should be aware of before constructing them:

  • It should be noted that such a corner will be ventilated and quite cold. It will require better and more efficient insulation.
  • If you do not fasten the logs together using dowels, the resulting log house may not be as stable and reliable as you planned.

With the remainder

In structures that have corners with a remainder, the ends of the logs protrude beyond the walls of the log house by about 20-30 cm. This angle is considered more reliable. In addition, it is made easily and quickly, and the result is a windproof and quite warm part.

Today, many craftsmen use the angle with the remainder when constructing a log house.

"To the brink"

With this type of angle, small recesses are selected in the upper and lower logs, into which the products are then “fitted.” In this case, the hole in the lower log must correspond to the size of the lower one (and vice versa).

Currently, this type of angle is used very rarely, since it can be quite problematic to adjust and make it windproof. It is permissible to use a part “in the okhryap” if it is necessary that the ridges of all the logs of the crown are in the same horizontal plane.

"Into the bowl"

The most common angle is rightfully recognized as the “bow angle”. The main advantages of this option are ease of manufacture and excellent thermal properties.

You can also distinguish an option called “upper bowl” - a clap-reflection of the “lower part” vertically. In this case, the bowl rests on the log.

However, it is worth considering that today this (“upper bowl”) type of angle is used much more often than the “lower” one, since it is made in a simple way and does not require significant energy consumption.

“A cup in the fat tail”

This is the name of another type of angle, which can be used both when building a house and when building a bathhouse. The main advantage of such an element is that it is not blown and has a design that makes it very easy to work with.

This angle is distinguished by the fact that in the lower part of its bowl there is always a small protrusion running along the log. In this case, a suitable notch is selected in the log, which is placed on the bowl.

Canadian and Norwegian cabins (carriage)

Norwegian logging is most often found in Scandinavian countries. With this method, not round, but oval half-bars are used for building houses (otherwise such a part is called a “carriage”). Such logs are sawn through on a sawmill on both sides.

During Norwegian felling, the projections on the walls are sawed off, after which a rather dense bowl is made in the corner areas and overcuts. This structure has a positive effect on thermal insulation properties designs. However, it is recommended to protect the log house with the gun carriage from blowing. To do this, you need to install special seals - caulking.

Canadian logging is in many ways similar to Norwegian logging and has all its positive qualities.

The main similarity between the two methods is that with them all connecting elements are self-jamming. During the drying process, the crowns become more dense, forming an almost complete monolithic wall.

The Canadian logging method is considered complex and labor-intensive. The tree must be adjusted as precisely as possible and prepared for work. It is recommended to carry out such work only experienced craftsmen who have previously encountered similar processes.

Advantages and disadvantages

Log houses are very popular today. Every person wants to have a home in which he will be as comfortable and cozy as possible, and such buildings cope perfectly with such tasks.

Log houses have both advantages and disadvantages. You should definitely familiarize yourself with them if you are going to install such a structure on the site.

First, let’s look at the advantages of log structures:

  • The main advantage of a log house is its environmental friendliness. Nowadays, safe materials that do not contain toxic compounds are becoming increasingly rare, which is why natural and safe products are so valued among modern consumers.
  • Another advantage of log buildings is their appearance. Moreover, we are talking not only about an attractive facade, but also about the harmonious interior of the home. Staying in such an environment is a pleasure and allows you to relax.
  • Some log houses do not require additional insulation, so during their construction you can significantly save money. There is no need to insulate buildings built from logs with a diameter of 25 cm.
  • The microclimate in a log house is ideal for people suffering from certain diseases. Experts say that coniferous materials have a positive effect on human health. This is why in the past many people turned to pine treatments.

  • Natural and high-quality log house is practical material, which does not require special attention. It does not need to be treated with antiseptic impregnations or antifungal substances. It is worth considering that wood (especially coniferous) emits a lot of resin, which plays the role of a natural antiseptic.
  • When constructing a log building, logs of such length are used that the materials are consumed very economically, and the integrity of large areas remains intact.
  • Houses made from planed material are different for a long time services. It is believed that for such buildings 100 years is not the limit.
  • When decorating houses built from natural materials, you can significantly save on finishing.
  • Craftsmen (both experienced and beginners) say that erecting a log house does not take much time.

Thanks to a large number positive qualities, log buildings are in great demand today. However, they are not ideal - such houses have their own disadvantages, among which the following features can be noted:

  • To many consumers, such buildings seem quite expensive. A high-quality and reliable log house should not be built from cheap and low-grade material.
  • Some structures are difficult to construct. Such buildings include oak houses. It is not recommended to do such constructions yourself - it is better to entrust this painstaking and time-consuming work to more experienced people.
  • Do not count on the fact that you will be able to celebrate a housewarming in the first autumn, summer or winter after the construction of the building, since you first need to wait for it to shrink.
  • Particular attention must be paid to the foundation. Even a small log house will have an impressive weight, so you should not rely on piles or pillars (the exception is a bathhouse). Without a high-quality and reliable foundation, a log structure can topple - despite its external compactness.
  • The log house must be treated with antiprene, which makes the structure more fireproof. It is not recommended to neglect this process.
  • Most modern log houses require regular maintenance. Of course, truly high-quality materials do not rot, but today more often there are logs that still need to be treated with antiseptic compounds.

Of course, many problems associated with a log house can be avoided if it is properly processed and installed correctly. In addition, it is very important to use high-quality natural materials for construction.

Wood requirements

To build a log house, you need to carefully select wood. It must meet certain requirements so that the result is a durable and strong structure.

The diameter of the logs plays an important role. For the construction of houses, it is recommended to use materials with a diameter of 24-32 cm. Small logs, of course, are much cheaper, but they look less aesthetically pleasing.

For large buildings, it is not recommended to use thin trunks - in such conditions they will look ridiculous. The optimal diameter is considered to be 28 cm. To build a house, you can purchase logs with a diameter of 30-40 cm, but such materials will be expensive.

There should be no serious damage, defects, signs of rot, mold or mildew on the surface of the logs. There should be no black, blue or any other dark spots on the wood.

Experts do not recommend purchasing disassembled timber. If the structure has been lying disassembled for a certain time, then it may simply fold incorrectly. This occurs due to different degrees of drying of the trunks.

Monitor the moisture content of the wood. It should be well dried. Materials with a natural level of humidity are in many ways inferior to similar specimens.

Selection of building materials

If you decide to build a log house with your own hands, then you should take the choice of building materials seriously.

Pine

Pine is an unpretentious material that has a long service life. Experts say that this type of wood is the easiest to work with because it is very malleable.

Used for construction the following types pine trees:

  • ordinary;
  • flexible;
  • resinous;
  • swamp;
  • Korean.

The best option The species of pine trees that grow in the northern zone are considered: Angara, Karelian, Arkhangelsk.

Most consumers prefer pine because it is not only practical and beautiful, but also inexpensive. However, it also has its weaknesses:

  • pine shrinks, like any other type of natural wood;
  • this material is susceptible to cracks;
  • pine is afraid of high levels of dampness and moisture, so it will have to be processed especially diligently protective equipment so that it retains its qualities for many years.

Larch

Log houses made of larch are also very common. This wood is quite strong and durable. In addition, larch is relatively expensive. It is also worth noting that when dried, this wood is not subject to rotting, which is very important for such a material.

This wood is considered medicinal. As for the strength characteristics, larch can be compared with high-quality and expensive oak. It is not easily damaged or broken, but it is sold at a reasonable price.

However, larch is less pliable and soft than pine. For this reason, such wood is difficult to process in any way. Because of this, working with her can be problematic.

Aspen

Natural aspen has a pleasant light shade. This type of wood is very easy to work with because it is not fussy. Aspen has the following important advantages:

  • such a tree is not susceptible to the formation of wormholes;
  • in a dry state, such a building material is very elastic;
  • aspen beams have minimal deflection, but are light in weight;
  • upon contact with water and its complete drying, aspen does not collapse or deform;
  • even at a temperature of +100 degrees, aspen does not emit resin (unlike coniferous trees).

This building material is rightfully recognized as practical and durable. However, it is worth noting that nowadays it is not so easy to find really high-quality pine bars. When constructing a log house, you can only use well-dried wood of this species.

Cedar

Cedar has a soft wood structure. In many respects, this material is similar to pine - it can also easily be processed in different ways. Cedar can be safely used for interior decoration, as it has a rather pleasant texture and an equally pleasant natural aroma.

In addition, cedar buildings have the following advantages:

  • high strength;
  • relatively light weight;
  • resistance to the harmful effects of moisture and dampness;
  • good sound and heat insulation properties;
  • ease of processing;
  • attractive appearance.

Buildings built from cedar usually have a slight reddish tint. If there are knots on such wood, they are less dense and strong than those of pine or spruce. However, it should be borne in mind that without additional finishing, cedar begins to darken, and much faster than, for example, pine.

Oak

If you want to build a high-quality and luxurious log house, then you should use oak logs. As a rule, such materials are quite expensive, but they look simply amazing and have enviable strength characteristics.

Oak buildings have many advantages for which modern consumers choose them:

  • Oak logs have a dense structure of wood fibers, thanks to which they can be used this material acceptable without regular antiseptic treatments.
  • Such wood burns very poorly, as it is very dense.
  • An oak log house is not afraid of either insects or mice.
  • This type of wood warms up slowly, but retains heat for a long time, which has a positive effect on the internal microclimate in homes.

Oak log houses are not without certain disadvantages:

  • High density is both a plus and a minus. Because of this feature, such material has an impressive weight, so working with it is not always convenient, and the foundation for it needs to be as strong and reliable as possible.
  • Not every craftsman knows how to work with oak - it is difficult to process.
  • Another serious disadvantage of such wood is its high cost.

Having chosen one or another material for building a log house, it is necessary to inspect it for the presence of the above-mentioned darkening, destruction and traces of rotting. You also need to purchase materials of a suitable diameter.

Construction stages

After purchasing the necessary material, you can begin building a log house. Such work must begin with careful preparation of technical specifications. It is on this basis that the entire list of required work will be formed.

After this, as a rule, a preliminary design is drawn up. It is developed to identify all the features related to both the circuit itself and the design as a whole. In addition, on the sketch the master will be able to notice in which places something needs to be corrected.

Next, you can proceed to drawing up a working draft. To do this, you can contact experienced specialists. The working draft is a preliminary design with all the details and nuances. Such documentation is used by builders to achieve maximum similarity with the customer’s initial preferences. It is very important to include both text and graphic materials in the working project.

When the plan is completed, you should proceed to pouring the foundation. The foundation under the log house must be sufficiently reliable and strong so that over time it does not sag or collapse. Most often for wooden buildings use a strip foundation.

To erect it around the perimeter and under future wall ceilings, you need to dig a trench. Its width should be about 40 cm and depth – 50 cm. Place a “cushion” of sand and gravel mixture on the bottom. Then you should lay the reinforcement and build a formwork 50 cm high. After this, you can proceed to the direct pouring of concrete. As a result, you will get a foundation whose height will be about 1 m.

Next, you need to carry out high-quality waterproofing of the base. To do this, the surface of the foundation can be covered with molten bitumen, and a layer of roofing material can be laid on top. When the bitumen is completely dry, the procedure can be repeated. The result is an effective two-layer waterproofing.

The next step will be the development of a utility network project. Its features will depend only on the wishes of the owners. Most often, a simple diagram is drawn up for this, which shows the location of all the main points. At this stage, the design of the future building should be developed.

For further work you will need the following tools:

  • chisel;
  • special carpenter's axe;
  • chainsaw (it is advisable to stock up on a tool with medium power);
  • plumb line;
  • building level;
  • electric drill;
  • mallet;
  • trait.

Particular attention should be paid to such a tool as the trait.

To make it, you need to take steel wire with sharp edges. Bend it in half so that it takes on a compass-type shape. It is permissible to additionally secure the handle. This tool will be needed for marking logs.

If you have all the necessary tools in stock, then you can proceed to assembling the log house. All varieties of such structures were listed above, but the most common is the Russian cabin. It is the easiest to do, and even a novice carpenter can handle such work.

The construction of the log house itself must be carried out in stages, starting with the frame crown (from the starting one). The logs that will play the role of the mortgage crown need to be trimmed into edges - for a tighter connection to the foundation base.

However, first you should put a “backing board” on the foundation. Linden is suitable for this. This can be a beam 50-100 mm thick and at least 150 mm wide. After constructing the embedded crown, you can proceed directly to the assembly of the log house.

Place the first pair of logs on waterproofing coating foundation. The second pair should be laid at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the starting parts. Combine everything into a “cup”.

When constructing such a structure, it is permissible to use a chainsaw. With its help you can significantly save valuable time. However, the final finishing of the “cups” must be done with an ax in any case.

After the first one, the second crown should be laid. It is better to choose thicker logs for it, since floor joists will be installed in them in the future. To ensure maximum fit, a longitudinal groove should be made in the top log. This element should be equal to a third of the diameter of the previous log. To outline the boundaries of the groove, you need to lay the upper log on the lower one and make a mark using a line.

An important step is the insulation of the logs. For this purpose, a special flax-jute fabric is most often used. One of its segments is placed on the lower crown, and the longitudinal groove is insulated with the second.

  • square dowels;
  • round wooden dowels.

Experts advise using wooden dowels, since you can buy them already prepared and simply make the necessary holes with an electric drill.

Holes should be made in increments of 1-1.5 m. In parallel, sew some of the upper crowns completely, and the third crown located below - not completely. To avoid bevel of the structure, after it shrinks, you need to recess the dowels into the crown, located 6-7 cm on top.

When you raise the wall ceilings to the height you need, you will need to put ceiling beams and rafters on top of them. If during construction you used damp wood, then you should use slate sheets instead of rafters. After this, you should wait for the structure to shrink. As a rule, for this you only need to overwinter once, but according to all the rules, shrinkage takes a year and a half.

With the onset of spring, when the shrinkage is completed (partially or completely), you can begin caulking.

Regarding door and window openings, then they can be arranged in two ways:

  • In the first option for arranging these parts, all holes are made only after completion of construction work. At the same time, small gaps must be left in the crowns, which are located in the places of future openings (their sizes depend on the size of the window and door structures). Once you have installed all the logs, all you have to do is cut the openings with a chainsaw.
  • In the second case, all openings must be prepared during the construction of the log house. This arrangement option is considered more complex and energy-consuming, since in front of you there will be timber with cuttings at the ends, as well as special grooves.

When the shrinkage of the entire structure is completed, it will be possible to move on to the next stage. To do this, you will need a hammer and caulk (wooden or metal).

It is permissible to begin work only after the insulation has completely dried. First you need to twist the materials (moss and tow) into a rope, and then hammer them into the spaces between the crowns (using caulk and a hammer).

It is also acceptable to use a tape harness. This material is installed using nails or a special construction stapler.

After the wood has settled, you can begin to build the roof. You should not start such work earlier, otherwise the structure may become deformed during the shrinkage of the log house. Stages of work:

  • Place wooden beams on the wall framing.
  • Fix them in one position and attach the rafter legs to them. In this case, a step of 1 m should be maintained.
  • In the ridge part, you need to cut the rafters at the desired angle (for connection).
  • TO rafter legs It is necessary to nail down a continuous deck of boards, especially if you are going to install flexible roofing on the roof.
  • Instead of a solid flooring, you can also construct a sheathing. This base is most suitable for tiles and slate.
  • After this, put the roofing on the roof.
  • The ridge should be covered with a sheet of galvanized steel to protect it from negative external factors.
  • The roof gables will require cladding. For this purpose, for example, siding or lining is suitable.

After installing the roof, you can move on to other work: pouring a concrete screed or installing wooden floors. In the second case, it is necessary to cut the logs into the logs of the second crown and securely fix them. Next, you will need to start laying insulation and finishing the interior of the house.

Sanding and processing

When the building material has just been delivered to you (or you brought it yourself), it needs about 25-30 days to rest. After this, you need to carefully examine and sort through all the logs that you bought to build the log house. Keep only the highest quality items. Wood with defects and damage must be rejected.

After sorting the material, you can begin processing it. To begin, the logs must be cleared of bark. However, it is recommended to do this as carefully as possible so as not to harm the wood. Need to leave small areas bark on the sides (about 15 cm on each side).

After removing the bark, the logs should be stored. In this case, the materials should be approximately 25 cm from the ground, and not lie on it. In this case, you can lay the logs as you like, it is only important to leave a distance of 7-10 cm between the individual elements.

In order for the log house to last as long as possible, it is recommended to sand it on the outside and then treat it with a special coating. However, it is worth considering that the process of polishing a log frame is complex and time-consuming. For this you will need special tools and a lot of free time.

High-quality grinding and processing are a guarantee:

It is also worth considering what advantages sanding a log house has:

  • Mechanical processing of wood eliminates cracks, irregularities and unpleasant roughness from the material. Treated logs look much neater and more attractive.
  • Wood that has been sanded acquires excellent adhesive properties, making painting faster and easier. The coating lasts a very long time.
  • After sanding is completed, the wood can acquire a pleasant natural texture, which is the main advantage of log structures.
  • By sanding you can protect wood from premature aging.

Grinding can be done with your own hands, but for this you need to use special tools. A belt sander is perfect for this kind of work.

If the log house is built from semicircular logs, then a belt machine will not be suitable for sanding it. Here it is better to use a grinder with special grinding attachments.

You can start sanding the log house only after it has completely dried. If you start this type of work immediately after construction, then excess moisture in the wood structure will not allow you to make the material as smooth and even as possible.

After grinding, the log house must be treated with the following means:

  • antiseptic agents that protect wood from mold and mildew;
  • glazing compounds that transform the appearance of wood;
  • antiprens, which make the tree more fire resistant.

Insulation

With properly selected insulation, a log house becomes more comfortable. Today, the range of such materials is very wide, so it will be possible to select the optimal products for any base.

To insulate a country house or log cottage, you can use various materials, each of which has its own characteristics. There are the following main categories of similar products:

  • synthetic, which contain artificial components;
  • natural interventional insulation, made from natural materials.

Synthetic insulation materials include polystyrene foam, mineral and basalt wool and other similar materials.

One of the most popular insulation materials for floors, walls and ceilings is mineral wool. It is made from slag, fiberglass and various rocks.

The main advantages of mineral wool are:

  • excellent thermal insulation characteristics;
  • waterproofness, which is very important for high-quality insulation;
  • resistance to most aggressive chemicals;
  • good air exchange characteristics;
  • soundproofing characteristics;
  • fire resistance;
  • durability (mineral wool service life is 25-30 years);
  • environmental friendliness.

As for the disadvantages of mineral wool, these include:

  • quite high level of dust;
  • When wet, this material loses its positive qualities.

However, this insulation does not tolerate contact with sun rays– they simply destroy or deform it. In addition, polystyrene foam cannot boast of good soundproofing characteristics. Many consumers refuse to purchase this insulation because of its flammability.

Some experts do not recommend insulating wooden houses with polystyrene foam, since this material does not transmit moisture out very effectively, and this leads to the accumulation of condensation. Because of this, wooden bases may darken and begin to rot.

To insulate a log house, it is advisable to use materials of natural origin. Of course, you can buy synthetic products, but with them you will not be able to achieve the “living house” effect that wood buildings are so good at. So, for example, if you insulate a log house with materials without pores, it will simply “suffocate” while under the protective film.

Porous insulating materials, which are in great demand today, can have a bad effect on wood structures. Such coatings, absorbing excess moisture, do not change in size, and this condition is important for natural wood. As a result, cracks and ventilated parts will certainly appear in such a design.

If you want to choose natural material, then you should wisely select high-quality inter-crown insulation. In this case, wool fiber, sealants or special heat-insulating tapes will not work. To insulate timber, it is better to choose flax, jute, and moss.

Moss has been used to insulate wooden houses in Rus' since ancient times. However, it must be taken into account that not every natural material. A special red moss, otherwise called “cuckoo flax,” is best suited for this. It grows in marshy northern areas. In nature, red moss is not so common. To insulate a log house, it is permissible to use white sphagnum moss.

Moss as a natural inter-crown insulation has the following positive characteristics:

  • has bactericidal properties, so it is not susceptible to rot or mold;
  • is durable and elastic (thanks to its fibers);
  • allows you to maintain an optimal microclimate in the log structure, as it boasts excellent characteristics vapor and gas permeability;
  • able to absorb excess moisture;
  • is environmentally friendly and safe.

If we compare sphagnum and red moss, it is worth noting that the first is less durable, but at the same time more affordable.

Inter-crown cracks can be sealed using jute insulation. It is not at all necessary to use moss.

Jute gaskets for insulating a log house have the following advantages:

  • environmental friendliness;
  • contain lignin fibers that prevent the material from rotting;
  • have excellent thermal insulation qualities.

Thanks to special processing, tow, felt and flax-jute are obtained from annual jute.

The main disadvantage of jute is that it can cake over time and is quite expensive.

Another natural insulation material for log houses is flax. It is often used in the construction of houses and baths. Currently, insulation materials such as flax wool and tow are made from flax. Both materials are environmentally friendly and absolutely safe for human health. In addition, such materials are quite dense, so they cope with their main task perfectly.

Let's consider how to properly decorate a log house with natural inter-crown insulation.

  • First, a layer of insulating material is placed on the log - it needs to be rolled out along its entire length.
  • Next, you need to place the next log on top to securely fix the insulation. At this stage you can use construction stapler, which will provide the most durable and durable fastening.
  • Make sure that the insulation does not roll into a thin rope. On the contrary, its edges should hang down on the sides by 5 cm when it is sandwiched between the wooden parts.
  • The hanging excess will need to be pushed into the depth of the seam. The most convenient way to do this is with a chisel.

This process of insulating timber is otherwise called primary caulking. Only a year later, when the structure shrinks, will similar work need to be done again.

Common Mistakes

When building a log house, many craftsmen encounter a number of common problems. Let's look at them in detail:

  • One of the most common mistakes is the incorrect selection of materials for construction. For the purpose of constructing a log house, it is permissible to use round timber of pine, spruce, fir, larch and other similar species. A big mistake would be purchasing materials with rot and tobacco knots.
  • It is very important to purchase dry materials. It will be very difficult to work with raw wood, and it will not last very long.
  • For dowels, you can only use dry, straight-grained wood that is free of knots. If you use birch dowels, they must be coated with antiseptics. Many home craftsmen neglect such work, but in fact this should not be done. In addition, it is not recommended to make dowels from coniferous and hardwood.
  • Do not completely remove the bast from the logs. Otherwise, such materials will attract insects and fungi.

  • Do not forget about laying waterproofing between the casing and the foundation. To do this, some use short-lived materials - such as roofing felt. Experts recommend purchasing more than modern coatings on a bitumen-polymer basis.
  • When assembling a house, you need to remember that each log has a certain degree of curvature. These materials must be laid with the curvature upward. If this principle is not taken into account, the logs can protrude strongly in different directions.
  • Another common mistake is failure to comply with the size of the crown gap. It should not exceed the 1 mm mark. When cutting by hand, it is difficult to follow this rule; drying out of the wood leads to an increase in cracks. Avoid connecting logs in crowns along the length, otherwise the structure will not be very strong.

  • The outside of wooden houses cannot be insulated with vapor-permeable materials - for example, polystyrene foam. In this case, the wood stops “breathing” and dries out completely, and a high level of humidity will destroy it over time.
  • Flexible mats cannot be used to insulate a log house. Instead, it is recommended to install more rigid materials in the form of slabs.
  • Craftsmen often transport construction materials carelessly. This error may damage them.

  • During the construction of a log house, all vertical posts can be supplemented with such a detail as a shrinkage compensator, which is a kind of jack.
  • Watch the side cracks on the logs - they should not go deeper than 1/5 of the diameter of the end of the log.
  • You should not leave the log house to dry without a roof. This can lead to its rapid rotting.
  • It is recommended to install special canopies in the structure that will protect the log house from negative external factors - for example, from rain.

  • Log houses should not be compacted with polyurethane foam in areas of window and door openings.
  • Do not start insulating a log house without checking the condition of the wood - first discard damaged parts and areas with defects.

To see what mistakes you can make when building a wooden frame, watch the video below.

Often, people who live in areas with commercially available round timber have the idea of ​​building a house on their own: especially since until recently almost all peasants possessed this wisdom, without knowing any literacy or mastering construction technology. Building a log house with your own hands is not a great science, but it still requires a deep understanding of the process and the ability to adapt old carpentry technologies to new conditions.

Materials and tools for building a log house

We immediately hasten to dissuade people who want to install a log house using modern power tools to save time. Unfortunately, the use of chainsaws and electric planes is not recommended; they can only be used for heavy work. Wood treated with power tools is more susceptible to mold and rotting processes. For the construction of log houses, a special carpentry kit is used.
To work, in addition to axes, you will need a standard plane (as well as a Scherhebel plane for finishing work) and a scraper (for removing bark); there is also a whole range of additional carpentry tools for cutting into a cup. To cut out a longitudinal groove, an adze is used - an ax with a rounded blade and an inverted ax handle. When processing wood with hand tools, the wood pores are naturally clogged; as a result, a hand-cut house will last much longer.

Carpenter's ax and its features: where to order and how to make

A house made of round timber is cut using several types of axes; professional woodcutters order axes for chopping houses to order from high-quality hardened steel. In the simplest version, we recommend stocking up on an ax for rough cutting, which without the weight of the ax handle should weigh about 1.6 kg, have a sharpening angle of 25 degrees, for convenience, use an ax length of 60 cm. And the second ax is used for finishing cutting with higher accuracy, such the model will have a sharpening angle of 20 degrees, a weight of 0.9 kg and an ax handle up to 50 cm long.

Many artels in their work use a restoration and carpentry ax, which was restored and made on the basis of ancient samples by A.V. Popov. There are many modifications of it, which were made by Popov himself. Approximately up to 90% of carpentry work involving felling a log house can be performed with this tool. Popov's ax has a wedge-shaped shape; in fact, this ax is a half-splitting ax, since its tasks include not only chopping, but also removing wood chips during work. This requirement is achieved using a special tool shape.

A number of Russian forges produce high-quality axes for cutting log houses. One of the most interesting is ToporSib. In this artel you can purchase all necessary tool for cutting a log house in the form of ready-made kits.

Selection and preparation of logs for construction of a log house

To build a log house you will need round timber. The thickness of the frame is selected based on the availability of materials. Usually, a house made of round timber is made with your own hands from accessible and inexpensive materials. In Russian conditions we are talking about pine round timber. There are 4 varieties of round timber available for sale; experts recommend the 2nd grade:

  • 1st grade: butt part, without knots, used for high-quality woodwork;
  • 2nd grade: assortment from the middle and butt part of the pine trunk, there is a small number of knots and cracks;
  • 3rd grade: round timber with a large number of knots;
  • Grade 4: wood with any defects except rot.

Pine for the construction of a log house is chosen for budgetary reasons; in addition, this wood is soft and pliable in processing, has a small number of knots, does not require additional processing, the trunk run-out (difference in diameter) usually does not exceed 1 cm. Pine does not crack as much as spruce processed, but is soft, so larch or oak is recommended for lower logs that are closer to the ground. In this case, the frame crown can be made of pine, but its diameter should be 5-7 cm larger than the main log. In some cases, a high foundation can save you from ground moisture.
To cut a log house, only fresh wood is used; ideally, the log house is cut in the forest, where the material can be selected, and then transported to the installation site. Fresh material should be stored for no more than 2 weeks; for storage at the construction site, rounds are stacked. For northern regions with temperatures reaching -40C in winter period, logs with a diameter of 21-24 cm are used, for the middle strip 15-18 cm is enough.

Project

When building a house, it is better to start with small forms of buildings, for example, building a gazebo or a log bathhouse with a recreation room and a bedroom. You can live in such a house before the construction of the main house, and then use it as a guest house. Usually timber is ordered maximum length, in this case, you can make accurate calculations based on the presence of windows, doors, partitions and select logs at the sawmill according to the required size.
In order to successfully and quickly build a house for yourself, it is better to hire a team that deals with wooden construction, at least for the summer. This will help you understand the main points of manual felling of log houses.

Foundation work: in the past and now

Foundation under wooden frame made using tape technology or made of stone. The higher the foundation, the wood is better will be protected from ground moisture. A house made of round timber can be installed on a columnar and pile foundation. In the old days, the first rows of logs, the so-called mother crown, were installed on stone shafts; they were called ryazhe. This solution made it possible to raise the house above the ground and secure it firmly.

We cut a log house with our own hands

Before starting work, prepare additional equipment. First of all, the support for holding the logs, the fixation of the round timber is ensured by cut out wedges. Next you need to prepare the logs to size:

  • when cutting a log house “in the paw”, the logs are prepared according to the design dimensions of the house;
  • when cutting “into a bowl” it is 60 cm more.

Next, using a scraper, the bark is removed from the trees; you can bring the log to a smooth state with a plane, but since upper layer wood will be removed, you need to treat the log with an antiseptic solution or tar oil.

On next stage The cutting of the covering crown is carried out using the cutting of the log. On one side, you should get a perfectly flat surface that will be in contact with the foundation. Next, the frame is constructed, the frame is easily cut into a bowl with your own hands, other technologies require skill.
Here's a video of how to make a log house with your own hands:

The algorithm for cutting a longitudinal groove may be different, professional craftsmen they do it by hand. For beginners, a small graphical instruction will help.

The felling of a log house can be carried out in a bowl, as well as using a number of other methods, which are illustrated in the figure.

Please note that there is Russian and Canadian technology cuttings The Canadian method of cutting log houses is better designed for log shrinkage and guarantees better thermal insulation.

Conclusion

Cutting a log house with your own hands is a very realistic goal, as a result of which you will become the owner of a beautiful and warm home. Construction of a wooden house will cost you relatively little, since labor-intensive processes will be carried out independently. The house will delight you with its appearance, and also create a healthy atmosphere inside due to the aroma of pine resins. The key advantage of this construction technology is the fact that a wooden house can be cut at any time of the year. If you use high-quality old wood, such a house will last at least 100 years.

Features of making a log house from round timber

A log house made of round timber is a classic solution used in construction for centuries. Round timber is chosen as a material for houses and baths; with the help of log houses, country houses and outbuildings are erected. Logs have high thermal insulation qualities, retaining all the advantages of natural material. It is difficult, but quite possible, to build a proper log house from round timber with your own hands, but it is important to understand all the features of a wooden house.

Features of log houses

Log houses made from round wood do not lose their popularity, since this material allows for natural exchange and at the same time has very low thermal conductivity. In such houses there will be comfortable temperature and at the same time a light, pleasant atmosphere with the aroma of wood, which many people like. However, due to the round shape of the logs, the joints between them will need to be insulated.

A log house made of round timber can last a very long time, best samples wooden architecture is hundreds of years old. Several log options are used for construction, and you need to decide on the most profitable one:

  • A sanded log is a tree trunk from which only the top layer of bark is removed, knots and various irregularities are removed. At the same time, the natural protective layers of wood are preserved, so the material will be stronger and more durable. However, a sanded log always has different thicknesses at the base (butt) and top, so they will need to be alternated when laying.
  • Rounded log is a type of round wood that has undergone special processing. Several layers of wood are removed, leaving only the densest middle part. In addition, the log takes on a smooth cylindrical shape, so it will be easier to use.
  • Sometimes a calibrated log is additionally allocated. Sanded trunks are selected strictly according to diameter (caliber), which will make construction easier and the walls will be more even.

Whatever option you choose, a round log house will be the most beautiful solution: houses made of logs have excellent aesthetic qualities; their appearance is reminiscent of Russian fairy tales. The surface of the walls will have to be exposed protective treatment, but it will preserve the natural color and texture of the wood, so the building will look great.

Preparatory work before construction

How to make a log house from round timber? Construction begins with choice suitable material and project preparation. Houses made of pine remain the most popular in Russia: it is inexpensive, grows in almost all regions, and is easy to process.

Soft material will require additional protection, but it can last quite a long time. A more expensive solution is a house made of larch logs: this type of wood does not rot, and only becomes stronger from moisture.

It is difficult to draw up a project on your own, especially if you have no experience in constructing drawings. However, you can find ready-made standard solutions and modify them according to personal preferences. You can contact a specialized company, where a professional architect will develop a project that best suits all your needs.

Stages of construction of a log house

When all preparatory work completed, you can begin assembling the frame on the site. The owner must decide on the type of foundation of the house: if a permanent two-story building is being erected, the best solution would be a strip shallow foundation, and for a light small building a columnar foundation would be suitable. The area is marked with pegs, between which ropes are stretched, after which the foundation can be laid strictly along the resulting lines.

A strip foundation is a monolithic concrete strip that is poured along the entire perimeter of the building. Concrete is strengthened reinforcement cage, so the strip base remains one of the most durable and reliable.

After pouring the foundation, it needs to dry, which takes several weeks. Only after this can you disassemble the formwork and proceed to the assembly of the log house.

The foundation requires careful waterproofing: roofing material is laid on it in several layers, and bitumen mastic can also be used. The log house itself is assembled in several stages:

  • The first crown is assembled from the thickest, strongest and most reliable logs that will support the weight of the house. They are trimmed from the bottom side so that they can be laid evenly on the foundation.
Typically, for log houses made of round timber, the “bowl” type of felling is used: semicircular recesses are selected in the logs, with the help of which the corners of the log house are fastened. It is important that the bowls are as even as possible, then the wall will be reliable.

  • Before laying the next crown, roll insulation is laid on the log. Its use will allow you to avoid constant caulking: flax or jute fiber, moss or other materials will not release heat to the outside, and from the outside the inter-crown insulation is almost invisible.
  • The crowns of the log house are laid one on top of the other, not forgetting the openings for doors and windows according to the project. Typically, professionals take only a few days to complete the assembly work; a novice craftsman will have to carefully adjust the logs to each other, which will take time.
  • The last crown serves as a mauerlat - the roof rafters will rest on it. For log houses made of round timber, a classic gable roof with a large slope is usually used so that snow does not linger on it. When the last crown is laid, the ceiling beams are cut into it, and you can proceed to installing the rafters using the chosen method.
  • When the frame of a round timber bathhouse is assembled, it must be allowed to stand for at least six months so that the shrinkage processes are completed and the wood dries as much as possible. Before this, it must be treated with an antiseptic to prevent rot.

Only when the finished log house has dried can you move on to insulation, external and interior decoration. It is imperative to insulate the subfloor, roof, and attic; additional wall insulation is less commonly used.

It will be easier to assemble a log house if you immediately purchase a ready-made house kit, in which all the logs are already matched to each other and numbered. In any case, the house will be warm, reliable and durable.

You need to enable JavaScript or update your player!