Where is the drain hose located on the washing machine? Connecting the washing machine to the sewer

During the installation process you purchased washing machine-automatic at the place of its constant operation, the problem of supplying all necessary communications to it immediately arises, including the following types connections:

drain dirty water;
connection to the cold water supply system;
connection to the electrical network.

In this article we will look at how to connect a washing machine to the sewer different ways.

Methods for connecting to the drain line

The connection of the washing machine to the apartment drain line can be done in two different ways: one of which involves a temporary organization of drainage, and the second is stationary.

With a temporary connection option, the waste water outlet pipe is fixed to the edge of the sink or bathtub. In this case, the hose must be secured to the edge of the selected container in such a way as to prevent the possibility of it accidentally falling.

The stationary option involves inserting into the existing drainage system by attaching an additional siphon to it, which avoids the leakage of unpleasant odors from the sewer.

The vast majority of users choose, of course, stationary option connection, in which in some cases there is a need to extend the drain hose. Its maximum length (limited, as a rule, by the power of the built-in drain pump) is usually indicated in the instructions supplied with the washing unit.

Note! Some experts advise leaving a small gap at the junction of the drain with the siphon, eliminating the possibility of water being “sucked in” and getting stuck. operating system machine when performing certain operations. In this case, one thing must be observed required condition, consisting of the following: location air gap should be slightly above the level of permissible water rise in the sink or bathtub when their drain is clogged. Otherwise, water may leak through this “bleeding” gap.

Connection procedure

You can, of course, entrust the most critical operations related to connecting a washing machine to employees of specialized services who can organize their fast and high-quality implementation. But if you have certain skills, the option of connecting the washing machine to the drain line yourself is not excluded. Let's consider the difficulties that you may encounter when connecting yourself.

The second reason why this type of drain connection is undesirable is the possibility of an unpleasant odor spreading from the sewer through the washing machine (this does not happen if there is a siphon).
To prevent water from flowing out of the washing device by gravity, it drain hose should be at a height of about 0.6 meters from the base of the floor. For these purposes, a special mount is provided on the back wall of the machine, from which the hose is pulled down and then raised again to the siphon.

And in conclusion, we will consider the features of connecting a washing machine to a sewer in a private house (where there is most often no sewerage system as such). If you don’t have a special sewer system at your dacha, drainage is organized in the simplest way called “overboard”.

Note! When organizing overboard drainage, it is not allowed to use a hose longer than 4 meters. With a longer hose length, an amount of water will accumulate in it, comparable in volume to the water supply in the machine itself, which will lead to its constant flow out of the system (regardless of the height of the hose on the rear wall).

Video

Find out what consumables you will need to connect your washing machine.

To do it is a much more complex and multifaceted task than connecting it to the water supply system. Almost every case requires an individual approach here. But, again, everything can be solved, and if you intend to arrange a water drain for your washing machine not just hanging a hose on a sink or in a bathtub, then so be it, everything is in your hands. How to do it?

Sewer EURO tee for draining a washing machine

If you have a modern plastic sewerØ40 or Ø50 mm - everything is simple and there will be no problems with organizing the drainage. We purchase an appropriate elbow or tee with an outlet angle of 45° (if we place it under the sink), and a cuff for it with internal diameter 25 mm.

When installing the cuff into the tee, do not remove the o-ring from the tee socket, which is often the sin of people inexperienced in plumbing - it will create an additional guarantee of the tightness of the connection. If the cuff is too tight, warm it up hot water a few minutes. After such heat treatment, it will become soft and elastic, and will easily fit into place. All that should remain visible from the side is the thin three-millimeter limiting edge of the cuff.

If you have any problems with the operation of your washing machine, we are ready to provide the service on extremely favorable terms.

Sometimes a very interesting effect happens: your sewage system is the most modern, the pipe diameter is 50 mm, you buy a corresponding tee Ø50 mm in the store, but it, as they say, does not fit the fitting size. It is hindered by two extra millimeters of its diameter from entering the pipe. Usually this is not a completely new design, which suggests that there was once a production that had its own standards, different from others. And the standard O-ring does not fit them either.

If such a situation occurs, you can go to extremes: remove the o-ring, fill its seat with sealant, and also coat the lead-in part of the tee. The tee will fit into the pipe with the sealing ring removed, but no more than a couple of centimeters. However, its fit is very tight (it will have to be driven into the pipe with good effort), and together with the sealant, it will never let water through. If it stands vertically, there is no other option for this, but if it is horizontal, it’s better to take a Ø40 mm tee and join it through a 50x40 transition collar. Using this method, you will not even suspect that the pipe is somehow different.

The diameter of the corrugation coming from sinks and sinks in 99% of cases does not exceed Ø40 mm, so the use of a tee with this diameter will not affect the bandwidth pipes. If at the end of the corrugation there is a socket with a diameter of 50 mm, carefully cut it off. It is usually fragile, so we do not put pressure on the cutter, but with light pressure we make rotational movements, and in three or four turns we finish the cut.

Attention!

When purchasing a 50×25 cuff, please note that in nature there are also cuffs with an internal diameter of 32 mm. To the untrained eye, it is extremely difficult to distinguish them from cuffs with a diameter of 25 mm, and more than once I had to rebuke sellers who handed me 50x32 cuffs instead of 50x25 cuffs. I always bought goods in the same store (due to the presence of a very serious discount), and these sellers have been working in this store for several years - what I mean is that this was not a random department store for household goods, but a serious plumbing store, and the sellers there had a great understanding of the product, and did not undergo student internship. But, nevertheless, they regularly gave me the wrong thing. And they even tried to convince me a couple of times that the cuff with Ø32 mm is great for attaching the drain hose from the washing machine, instead of going 3 steps to the tray with the cuff that I needed.

No. Doesn't fit great. The hose enters it without proper force, and one day it may simply be knocked out of the cuff. By the way, I often heard from people that someone’s drain hoses flew out somewhere. Often we came across 50×32 cuffs on the drainage system for a washing machine when people purchased a new washing machine and needed to install it. That is, the installer of the previous washing machine installed a 50x32 cuff. And this installer came from the official service center, as it unobtrusively turned out. Why are people's hoses flying out, I wonder..? Mystery…

Draining the washing machine through the sink siphon

Another option for organizing the drainage of water from a washing machine is a siphon equipped with a special fitting. You replace the old siphon with a new one, and you're done. The fitting is usually two-dimensional - tapering towards the end. If the hose fits on it too loosely, cut off the thin end using rotary movements of the cutter with light pressure (plastic is fragile). To drain water through a siphon, it is not always necessary to completely change it. If your siphon is not from Soviet times, but is Euro-compatible, you can simply modernize its design by adding a spout insert for a washing machine (see photo). They are available in several types, depending on the designs of siphons and the sizes for which they are intended.

If the only option for the drain hose is to lead into the kitchen sink, and the area around it is too wide wooden platform, which is not covered by the bracket intended for fixing the hose, you can also make a circular saw of small diameter on the surface of the platform miter saw and remove the hose from it into the sink. In this case, one end of the hose bracket will go inside the hole and will securely hold the hose, which will look like the spout of a small faucet. We select the diameter of the saw according to the diameter of the bracket-holder plus a couple of millimeters for free movement (the holder expands slightly when a hose is inserted into it).

An old cast iron pipe is a window to EUROPE

If you have cast iron sewage pipe, we first have to adapt it to the modern plastic EURO standard using a 73x50 cuff. Typically, the water drainage pipe from the sink is sealed in sewer systems old installation cement mortar. Sometimes this is a rather weak solution, which easily yields to gentle blows of a hammer on an impact screwdriver, sometimes not very easily, but without much resistance. One day, however, I got caught difficult case. Judging by the fact that the solution was removed crumb by crumb, and even required the use of a hammer drill in places, it was real concrete. Using a hammer drill to remove mortar from cast iron is not very advisable, because the impact energy of the hammer drill is very serious, and it produces it in series of several blows per second. To avoid the transmission of vibrations from the place where they are created further to other connections of this pipe, which are very capricious to vibration, and even more so to avoid the creation of resonance effects, it is preferable to work with a more primitive instrument. Longer, but calmer.

When starting to work with cast iron pipe, you should take into account the fact that the connections of these pipes are sensitive to vibration. If this is a pipe in the kitchen, then, as a rule, it is in the tight embrace of the wall, and the force on the pipe is not dangerous for everything located behind this wall. The maximum that can be damaged is the connection of the pipe coming out of the wall with the outlet, which, in fact, is what we are working with. If this is a branch in the bathroom, then we risk creating a lever that swings other nearby connections on this pipe. Plus, old cast iron tends to crumble and crack simply from disrepair. So, before starting work, we evaluate the condition and integrity of the pipe connections, the presence of cracks in the sockets. We examine the places where the pipe is fixed - in order to imagine the amount of leverage from our manipulations with it. If you are not sure that there will be no problems, it is better not to undertake it. Or just be prepared for these problems. Methods for dealing with problems will be described below.

So, the sequence of actions to transform the socket of an old cast iron pipe into one compatible with all modern materials system is as follows:

At a height of 2-3 cm above the cement level, we cut off the pipe/corrugation from the sink, insert something inside that prevents pieces of the splitting solution from falling irretrievably into the sewer, and at the same time so that this “something” itself does not disappear into the sewer abyss. Any large bag from a grocery supermarket will do - a small part of it remains sticking out, ensuring its return, and what ends up inside creates a fairly high cushion right in the section of the pipe, without contact with the bottom. In this case, it is advisable, just in case, to ensure that there is no water in the pipe from water points located further away from the riser (so that our package does not get washed away).

The piece of corrugation sticking out of the cement is a strong reinforcing element of the connection. Therefore, we remove it, processing it along the diameter with a screwdriver and a hammer until it becomes mobile - the plastic willingly moves towards the center, yielding its bed to the screwdriver, after which the segment can be “bitten” with pliers and forcefully pulled out (usually a hammer and screwdriver are not even required).

Next, we knock out part of the ring along the radius, as shown in the figure. The direction of the blows is from the edge to the center, we need to break the integrity of the circle. Do not confuse the concept of “direction of blows” with the blows themselves - we start them from the center, gradually moving away to the outer edge. After knocking the strip out of the radius, the cement quite easily leaves the pipe in sectors 4-5 cm long - we carefully knock them down impact screwdriver again from the outside to the center. There’s no need to put unnecessary weight on our package “airbag” - we pick up everything we can during the process and put it in a pile next to it. The cement is held in the socket not so much by adhesion to the pipe, but by tensile forces acting outward. Therefore, if we had the opportunity to strike from inside the pipe, it would be much faster and easier. This factor should be taken into account when choosing a cement plug removal strategy. When everything is removed, carefully knock down small irregularities inside the bell, aiming for the most even surface possible - the tightness of the cuff fit will depend on this.

Now we take the cast iron/plastic cuff 73×50 (if we want to adapt cast iron to Ø50 mm), and install it in the prepared place. As a rule, it does not go without effort, but if you doubt the compatibility of the cuff and the bell (sometimes there are bases), cut it off stationery knife lower seal ring. If the cuff falls freely to the second ring, then everything is fine with the dimensions, and we just apply more force - it’s not a sin to tap lightly with a hammer in the end. If the cuff is kept in hot water for a couple of minutes, it usually becomes a little more accepting of its fate. Sometimes there are actually bells of a slightly smaller diameter - trying on a cuff with the lower ring cut off gives a little resistance. Depending on this resistance, select the size of the cut of the remaining rings - either half along their height, ensuring the evenness of the cut, or completely. Then the cuff sits in place, and if you coat it with sealant first, then this will not be at all superfluous.

EURO-socket for old plastic

It is often not cast iron, but old-style plastic sewers that are found. As a rule, it only complements cast iron at some point and has the same socket diameter. The cement is removed from it more easily, without impact. After removing the section of the washing pipe/corrugation, we compress the socket with a pipe wrench in several places along the diameter. Since plastic is elastic and has little tendency to adhere to cement, we can easily free the socket cavity from physical contact with the cement ring, while simultaneously creating radial cracks in the ring during this compression. The ring, divided into segments, is not glued to the bell and is held in it by the compressive force of the plastic. All that remains now is to simply pull the pieces out, creating a force from the bottom up. Using the same pipe wrench, we engage the sectors from the inside, or use other lever systems.

It is not uncommon for a plastic pipe to have no socket. Apparently, at one time someone did not bother removing the cement when replacing the siphon and simply cut the pipe. The recipe in this case is simple, but somewhat unusual. We take a 50×40 cuff, warm it in hot water and put it on a tee (or bend, depending on the situation) Ø50 mm. He dresses reluctantly, but gets dressed. Next, we also have to do painstaking work - carefully cut off three thin sealing rings, which, oh, how capriciously they are cut off due to their small height, but we are not on our way with them, they stubbornly do not want to let the tee into the socket. However, try it on first - who knows, you might be lucky, although I was lucky only once. We also cut off the upper sealing ring (not the edge, but the RING) - under the cone, in the direction of the lower part of the cuff.

Now, using rotational movements, we connect our structure with the pipe until it expands at the cuff. It's tight, but that's good, considering the fairly small contact area. However, the connection is strong and reliable.

Draining water for a washing machine: extreme solutions

State cast iron sewer doesn’t inspire a bit of optimism, but I really want the dirty water from the car to pour out not into the sink, but into the sewer. The method is also useful when replacing a siphon or corrugation, with other equal hopelessness.

Typically the corrugation has a diameter of 40 mm. But we will work with it using Ø50 mm material with transition cuffs 50×40. Why don't we just take the appropriate pipe size? The sealing tube ring of the components from the Ø40 series has too small a contact surface area, and the use of a 50x40 adapter collar gives an advantage both in terms of area and the fact that inner part The transition collar has three sealing collars. We need to ensure vertical retention of water at the junction of the coupling and corrugation. Install the cuff into the coupling using sealant. Next, we fill the internal cuff cavities with sealant, and also apply sealant to the seating part of the corrugation. We insert the corrugation into the coupling. We mean that various debris will get into the gap between the walls of the coupling and the corrugation from the sink, which may one day contribute to the creation of a blockage. Therefore, we fill this gap with sealant (sealant with a spout, used in a mounting gun, will come in handy here).

Actually, we converted a piece of corrugation sticking out of the sewer pipe into a Euro connector. Then everything is standard. The sealant has sufficient viscosity not to be washed off with water, so the compound can be used immediately, but try not to overuse it. If possible, it is better not to disturb him for at least the next couple of hours. But if you can’t wait to check, you can do it right there. Please note that we are talking here about an extreme option, which can only be used in a completely hopeless situation, because this piling up of cuffs is not good, and is only suitable as a temporary measure. Very temporary.

Correct connection of the washing machine drain. How to connect a washing machine yourself?

First, let's look at connecting the washing machine to communication systems. The machine should be connected to a cold water supply and a waste water drain should be installed.

Quite often, in the designs of washing machines, restrictions are set on the minimum and maximum height of the outlet pipe. In order for the washing machine to drain water, it is necessary to connect the water drainage system to the sewage system. Let's consider connecting the washing machine drain. An additional siphon should be installed or a pipe should be secured to the side of the bathtub or sink.

The fastening must be reliable to avoid flooding of the apartment if the drain hose falls out.

It is believed that the most modern and convenient options draining is nothing more than connecting the drain hose to the sewer. Please note that you can increase the length of the drain hose, but it has its own length limit, dictated by maximum power drain pump. You can find out maximum length drain hose from the documentation that came with the washing machine.

The drain hose should be secured to the back wall of the washing machine at a height of approximately 80 centimeters.

Attach the drain hose

We connect the second end of the hose to the sewer using a special siphon to avoid unpleasant odors and water from the sewer getting into the car. You can bend the end of the hose in such a way as to create a water jam effect, which will also prevent odor and water from entering the machine.

Some craftsmen recommend loosely connecting the drain hose and sewer.

One of the options for connecting a hose to a sewer.

The possible presence of an air gap will prevent water from being sucked from the machine into the sewer. This may cause the machine to freeze during certain wash programs. However, this connection has a serious condition. The height of the air gap should be several centimeters higher than the level of water rise in the sink or in the bathroom in case of possible clogged sewerage. Otherwise, there is a fairly high probability of flooding the apartment if the drain through the air gap is clogged.

How to properly connect a washing machine

A new washing machine in the house is so nice, but without communications connected to it, it’s just a beautiful cabinet. Connecting a washing machine is not particularly difficult, but if everything is done incorrectly, you can easily end up with repairs or, even worse, the purchase being written off as scrap.

If your desire to save money has overcome your fear of losing your washing machine, read on. First of all, do not listen to the admonition of the sellers that if they are not the ones who connect the washing machine, the warranty on the machine will be void. This is a vile lie. The warranty is canceled if the washing machine is damaged as a result of correct connection, and if everything was done correctly, then it doesn’t matter who connected it. Let's move on.

The first thing to think about is electricity. If the house is not a new building, then standard socket may not withstand heavy power consumption, so prepare the outlet in advance. It is better to have a separate socket from the panel. If there is an electric stove in the house, you can throw a wire from it. For this, take a three-core cord with a cross-section of 1-1.5 mm, color and type of insulation to suit your taste. In new houses, the wires are mostly made to last, so you can rest assured.

The second part is plumbing. Water is a tricky thing and here you need to be extremely careful in choosing materials. Don't save money here - you'll regret it later. It is best to buy taps and hoses from trusted stores. Large construction supermarkets are the best. They are less likely to run into marriage.

Do not connect the faucet by drilling a hole in the pipe and then crimping it with a special faucet coupling. In practice, such a faucet quickly becomes clogged. It is better to install a classic drain valve. The inlet hose should not be very soft. Choose the hose length with a margin of 1-1.5 meters, so that in case of repair of the washing machine, without disconnecting the hoses, the washing machine can be pulled out without difficulty. The same goes for the drain hose.

Now we smoothly move on to the drainage part. There are two options: connect the washing machine to a siphon or directly to the sewer. Another ambush awaits you here. The siphon is insidious in that if the hose is thrown across the floor, water can pour into the washing machine through the drain hose. Therefore, be sure to pass the drain hose along the top so that its highest point is higher than the water in the sink to which the washing machine is connected.

If the drain hose is connected to the sewer, be sure to extend the pipe vertically to a height of 50-60 cm. Otherwise, the water from the machine will flow by gravity into the sewer.

If you follow these rules, your washing machine will not soon require you to repair it.

Correct installation of the washing machine

It is very important from the very first days to correctly connect the washing machine to the water supply and electricity. Violation of the installation rules can lead to serious consequences, both for you and for your new “assistant” - the washing machine.

1. Dismantling of packaging and shipping units
After the washing machine is delivered to your home, inspect the packaging and make sure that it has not been damaged. Then remove the packaging (cardboard, foam, polyethylene) from all parts of the washing machine. Install the unit in the chosen location (bathroom or kitchen). When doing this, take into account the length of the water intake and drain hose, as well as the length of the power cord. If the standard hoses are too short, you will need to purchase hoses from your local store longer length for washing machine.
Now you can remove the shipping parts that secure the tank and the rotating elements of the washing machine. those. protect the car during transportation.
Such parts are usually bolts (most often there are three), staples and bars. It is necessary to make sure that all fastenings are removed, because... turning on the washing machine with the transport units not removed will lead to the rapid failure of the washing machine and without the possibility warranty repair. The holes from which the bolts were removed must be sealed with the supplied plastic inserts.
The brackets provide additional rigidity during transportation and secure the power cord and drain hose.

Sometimes additional fixing transport bars are laid between the body and the tank. To dismantle the bars, you need to tilt the washing machine forward and pull them out.
We recommend keeping all shipping details as... If you move, you may need them.

2. Connecting the washing machine to the sewer
As already mentioned, washing machines come with a hose of a certain length. The standard distance from the washing machine to the drain is 3 m, only for some washing machines this distance is 5 m. Manufacturers of washing machines always determine the possible load on the pump (drain pump) in their washing machines, and in accordance with this they formulate installation rules. With an increased distance, the load on the pump will be greater than calculated, and this may lead to breakdown in the future. The fastening of the drain hose must be secure enough to prevent the hose from falling to the floor and flooding the apartment when the water is drained.

When permanently connecting the drainage system to the sewer, in order to avoid unpleasant odors from the sewer getting into the washing machine, you should install a special siphon or bend the end of the hose so that a water blockage is created. It is important to note that this connection method is NOT RECOMMENDED for houses with worn out sewer pipes, because... they contain a large number of blockages, which can lead to drained water escaping outside (on the bathroom floor).

3. Connecting the washing machine to the water supply
The permanent connection of the washing machine is made with the specially supplied flexible hose with 3/4 inch diameter connections. The hose can be extended to the required length. The connections are sealed with a rubber gasket.
In addition, it is advisable to ensure that the water is turned off after finishing using the washing machine. To do this, install an additional valve, which is closed at the end of the wash. It is recommended to give preference to more expensive models of cranes, with a good margin of safety and tight connections.
Adjusting the legs of the washing machine is also important point.
The washing machine must stand stable, without distortion. The floor under the machine should not be slippery. A machine that is not intended for installation built into furniture cannot be located inside the furniture, otherwise vibration during spinning will destroy this furniture.
For proper installation, the washing machine is equipped with height-adjustable front legs.

4. Connecting the washing machine to the mains
Your safety when using your washing machine is paramount. To ensure safety, it is necessary to connect a neutral or grounding bus with a cross-section of at least 3 mm from the distribution board. and the socket will have to be replaced with a three-wire one.
The grounding wire must be insulated; it is strictly prohibited to connect it to heating radiators, water supply systems, or gas supply.
To properly connect the washing machine, you need a separate three-wire cable from the meter. In this case, the electric meter must be designed for a rated current of 15...30 A. A separate circuit breaker can be installed on this cable. Cable at external diagram It is recommended to conduct wiring in plastic channels ( plastic profiles). It is reliable and aesthetically pleasing.
If, nevertheless, you feel doubts about the correctness of your actions, it is better to contact the appropriate specialist.

The washing machine does not heat the water

Temperature is one of the most important components in the operation of a washing machine. If the washing machine does not heat the water, then it will not be able to wash the clothes as needed. Therefore, the presence of temperature must be monitored. So, what are the symptoms and how is it possible to return the missing function to the washing machine.

The main mistake of many users who call us is tactile sensations at the end of the wash. Considering that rinsing occurs in cold water, then it’s not difficult to guess what the temperature of the laundry will be. So such a diagnosis is immediately discarded. But if, throughout the entire wash cycle, especially the first thirty minutes, the washing machine was unable to heat the water to at least room temperature, then it's time to be wary.

Sometimes the washing machine simply cannot do this because it is not connected correctly. This topic was discussed in the article “How to properly connect a washing machine.” In short, the machine involuntarily, without the help of a pump, pours the newly poured water into the sewer and so on ad infinitum. Of course, the water is simply not able to heat up.

Another possibility to troubleshoot the problem is to take a close look at the temperature controller. Sometimes the regulator is accidentally set to zero, and as a result, the washing machine does not heat the water because it strictly follows your instructions.

The last symptom is the most common. The washing machine, after working for the first 10-15 minutes, stops and remains in this state until the owners realize it. In 99% of cases, the heating element is to blame, or in other words a heating element. Here, most likely, you will have to contact a washing machine repair company. You can't do without replacing it.

How to connect a washing machine yourself?

Installing and connecting a washing machine yourself is not very difficult for someone who knows how to work with an electrical panel, wires and plumbing hoses.

(I am writing this post for retail buyers craftsmen and for sellers of washing machines, because only that seller inspires confidence in the buyer in his stories during the sale, who is a real practical master, and not a glamorous theorist.)

To get started, in addition to the washing machine, buy:

1) an outlet with a grounding capacity of more than 16 amperes, preferably rubberized against moisture;

2) a piece of three-core cable with a cross-section of about 4 mm2 (by eye - about the thickness of a pencil) and this long. how far is the source of current and grounding from your washing machine - more precisely from its personal outlet. Such a source could be an electric stove socket, if you have one in your house, or a distribution electrical panel on the platform on the floor;

Do not under any circumstances skimp on cables and grounding - they will protect your health and life.

3) Buy a walk-through faucet for the toilet tank to connect the washing machine - market sellers know. what it is;

4) buy a longer one inlet hose than the one that was sold to you as a kit (consider the distance from the toilet to the washing machine. Buy a high-quality hose - don’t skimp, otherwise you’ll later renovate your neighbor’s apartment downstairs and remember your wrong savings.

5) And also buy a new toilet filler hose in good braid in advance. They are often 40 years old already. (Usually when they install a washing machine, the old hose is torn and broken).

6) Buy a package switch plug from 25 amperes, through which you will separately power the washing machine and if you have old wiring, buy an RCD (this is the same package plug - a switch on the power line in a wet room, but it protects not the device, but a person - if the current goes somewhere in the wiring and can strike - then this RCD will turn off);

7) purchase an additional drain hose and an adapter for it, as long as your washing machine with its short drain hose is located from the point of drainage of dirty water - that is, from the bathroom, if you “dirty” drain over the edge or from the sink siphon,

8) which is also a good idea to buy for a clean and quiet drain - such a new three-arm siphon for connecting the drain from the washing machine..

We brought you a washing machine home - what should you do next to install it and start washing?

1) Measure the voids on the sides of the washing machine to see if the washing machine will hit neighboring objects and furniture during the spin cycle and make a gap of at least 1 cm.

2) See if it will be convenient to open the hatch and load laundry (both on the front and vertical).

3) Remove the transport bolts and transport brackets (if any). Keep these items if re-transport is possible.

4) Align the washing machine with the construction bubble level so that it does not hit during the spin cycle. Place the washing machine only on a solid, non-swaying floor. Level it by twisting the legs.

5) Supply electricity and grounding through a previously purchased cable, packet and socket from the panel from the site in the house with gas stoves or from an electric stove socket. Find out in Zheka in advance whether there is grounding on the panel in the house. You can protect yourself from electric shock in a bathroom with old wiring by also installing an RCD on the wiring line. An RCD is a device similar to a package plug that turns off the power supply to the device if the current flows into water or into objects in a damp room.

6) Connect the washing machine to the water through the inlet hose and the pass-through tap to the toilet tank - at the point where its original inlet hose enters it.

7) Connect the washing machine to a new triple drain siphon, which you screw to the sink through a hose (or run the drain through a “goose” to the edge of the bathroom.

Be sure to secure the beginning of the drain hose to the top eyelet at the back of the machine - otherwise it will fill and immediately drain water.

8) Open the water tap to fill the washing machine (after washing, get into the habit of closing it, and be sure to close it when leaving home). Many people forget to do this - then the hose leaks, bursts, and the neighbors downstairs are all flooded. Or buy an inlet hose with a hydrostop in advance, but this is not a cheap pleasure.

9) Place the laundry, add powder (the powder must be automatic - on the box or bag it says AUTOMATIC and there is a picture of an automatic machine), select the program and turn on the washing machine. If the washing machine hits hard, knocks and jumps, it means you haven’t removed all the shipping bolts or you have too little or too much laundry. Check if the washer is tilted. Check if everything is connected correctly?

At correct installation The washing machine should operate smoothly and not very loudly, and under no circumstances should it bang the drum.

This entire installation is only available experienced craftsmen. My advice to you is that if you are not very qualified, it is better to call an installation specialist. It is not very expensive, but it will be done faster and more reliably.

The washing machine is electrocuted

Everyone knows that a washing machine is a high-risk device, and we often find out about this when we’ve had a good shake. electric shock. On the one hand, it is undesirable to touch the washing machine during operation.

If the washing machine is in your bathroom, you definitely can’t swim when it’s running. So the eternal question arises: “What to do?” I understand perfectly well that our articles help people who, for a number of reasons, cannot call a specialist, and therefore, in this case, here are some recommendations.

The washing machine receives an electric shock when the device, which is grounded to the frame, fails. If your washing machine begins to electrocute, you should first check the following devices:

engine,
heater (heater),
network filter,
pump (rarely),
command apparatus (rarely).

Checking for leaks is also quite easy. Arm yourself with a tester, turn it on for dialing. Remove all the connectors from the device you want to test and place one end of the tester on the ground (where the yellow-green wire stood), and with the other, ring all the contacts on the device one by one. If at least one of them shows resistance, it means that it is because of this device that the machine is receiving an electric shock. The device must be changed or removed, such as a surge protector.

How to organize proper care and maintenance of your washing machine?

Do not place heavy objects or stand on the washing machine.
Do not lean or lean anything against the loading hatch.
It is not recommended to allow children to use the washing machine independently.
Pets should not be left unattended near the washing machine.
It is not recommended to open the compartment for detergents during washing. This may result in water overflow.
After each wash, it is recommended to leave the loading door open to avoid moisture build-up.
After each wash, it is recommended to turn off the water supply valve to the machine.
Do not turn the program selector counterclockwise!
You cannot reset the washing program after the machine has started washing. This can interfere with the machine's automation and lead to breakdown.
The body and parts of the washing machine must be periodically wiped with a cloth soaked in a detergent solution.
Do not wash the washing machine with a spray bottle or under running water.
Do not use chemical solvents or abrasive cleaning powders for cleaning.
Before washing the washing machine, you must turn it off from the power supply.
The detergent container is removed from the machine and washed under running water. warm water.
If formed limescale(due to incorrect dosage of detergent, heavily contaminated water, etc.), you can clean the washing machine using a plaque remover. In this case, it is necessary to strictly follow the instructions for the product used, since such products contain acids. If the washing machine is not treated thoroughly after cleaning, acid residues deposited on the machine parts can cause discoloration of the laundry and even damage to the machine parts.
To clean the drum from rust stains left by metal objects caught in the drum, it is recommended to use cleaning agents that do not contain chlorine.
The condition of the hose must be checked once a year. If any signs of damage are noticed, the hose must be replaced. When the washing machine is operating, the hose is under high pressure and can burst if damaged.
After washing items made from fleecy materials, it is necessary to clean the sump pump filter.
Before cleaning, make sure that the wash is finished and disconnect the machine from the power supply.
When removing the filter, a small amount of water may appear, so you need to prepare a container to collect the water in advance.

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During the process of installing and connecting the washing machine, the problem arises of how to organize the drainage of waste water correctly. Most The right way- This is to connect the drain hose directly to the sewer branch, but it is also the most labor-intensive. We will describe how to organize the drain in detail and start with the preparatory work.

Preparing tools and components

Any serious work requires careful preparation; connecting a washing machine to the sewer is no exception. If you have to install an old machine after moving, organizing water drainage, then you may only need tools and components, but when installing a new machine, some of the components are already included with the machine.

But you need to start preparing by determining the installation location. There can be three options:

In the bathroom, which is very convenient, since any outlet, including the drain, is practically at hand.
In the kitchen next to the sink.
In the hall.

Having determined the place, prepare the tools so as not to look for them when organizing the removal. May require:

various screwdrivers;
keys;
pipe cutter, if necessary, cut into the drainage pipe;
welding for metal-plastic pipes;
siphon regular or with check valve;
plastic tee;
silicone sealant;
sealing rubber bands;
a corrugated drain hose of the required length, if the factory one is too short.

Let's celebrate! It is not recommended to join hoses, since additional connections mean additional risks of water leaks. The optimal hose length is considered to be no more than 3 meters, because the longer the hose, the greater the load on the pump; the drain should be closer.

Another stage in preparing the washing machine for connection is. When the machine is fully prepared for connection to communications, you can proceed to the main work.

Methods for connecting to the sewer system

Before organizing a drain and connecting the washing machine to the siphon, you need to install the siphon itself on the sink. If the siphon does not have a separate outlet for household appliances, then you will also need to connect a plastic tee to it. With this connection bad smell from the sewer can end up in the drum, where the laundry lies after the wash cycle.

Therefore, it is necessary to organize an “air barrier” in the siphon. For this purpose, the siphon has a special branch to which a corrugated pipe is connected. It is curved in such a way that water stagnates in its bend, creating a reliable plug that does not allow the smell from the sewer into the tank of the machine. At the same time, such a plug does not impede the drainage of waste water from the washing machine to the drain and is renewed with each release of water into the sewer.

Instead of a simple siphon, you can use a siphon with a check valve, which prevents not only the smell, but also waste water from entering the machine; in this case, it is possible to organize the drain much more efficiently. If the siphon is clogged, a situation may arise when wastewater They fill it up and go back to the machine by gravity. To prevent this from happening, a valve is built into the siphon.

After installing the siphon, you need to connect the hose to the branch from the siphon. This is easy to do, just secure the clamp.

In some cases, the drain hose of the washing machine is connected not through a siphon, but into a branch of the sewer pipe. In this case, an O-ring adapter will be required. This adapter will allow you to insert the hose into a wide pipe opening. This method is more labor-intensive than the previous one. However, it is reasonable to use it when the washing machine is placed at a distance of more than 2 m from the sink siphon.

The photo shows the connection directly without using an adapter siphon tube (left) and with its use (right). This adapter allows you to create an air lock that prevents odors from the sewer from entering the machine.

When organizing waste water drainage from the machine through a siphon or directly, you need to take into account the distance from the floor to the drain point. The point at which the end of the hose will be located must be at a height of at least 50 cm from the floor. The maximum height from the floor to which the drain hose can rise is no more than 100 cm. These figures depend on the power of the drain pump.

Connecting the washing machine drain hose through a siphon or directly to the sewer is considered the most reliable way to organize drainage. The risk of water leakage if the hose is accidentally touched is minimized. Moreover, from an aesthetic point of view, it is also best option, since the hose is usually hidden behind the machine itself or the kitchen unit.

Other methods of draining waste water

The most simple options Organizing the drainage of water from the washing machine involves throwing the drain hose over the sink, bathtub or toilet. To do this, you need a plastic hook-shaped nozzle that will hold the hose on the sink or bathtub.

This method of organizing a drain is the most unreliable. And it has a number of disadvantages:

Important! If you still decide to use this method When draining water from the machine, remember that the length of the drain hose should not exceed 4 meters, since a larger volume of waste water can remain in the hose itself and stagnate in it, emitting an unpleasant odor.

Thus, you can connect the washing machine to the sewer yourself, if you have the desire, tools and time. And you shouldn’t skimp on components, because a reliable and competent connection is the key to trouble-free and uninterrupted operation washing machine.

If you decide to connect the washing machine yourself, without trusting similar work to the master in order to save money, then before doing this, find out all the nuances. In this case, you will be fully armed, so to speak, prepare everything you need at once and do the job efficiently. How to drain a washing machine correctly, what methods exist, this will be discussed further.

Connection methods, which one to choose?

There are three ways to organize the drainage of waste water from a washing machine.

The first method involves draining water into the plumbing - the easiest option to implement. Even a beginner who is connecting the machine for the first time can make such a drain.
The second method involves connecting to the drain through a siphon. This method is considered the most optimal and is used most often.
The third way is to connect the drain hose to the sewer directly. This option is difficult to organize; connecting the drain in this way is most often trusted to a specialist.

In addition to the complexity of connection, each option has its pros and cons. For example, draining water into plumbing is the most unreliable and unaesthetic. The drain hose attachment through the bathtub or toilet may come loose, causing water to flood the bathroom. In addition, you pollute the bathtub, which will have to be cleaned until it shines every time you wash it. There may be an unpleasant odor in the room while draining. But when connected through a siphon, on the contrary, you will be protected from such odors.

Think carefully before choosing one or another connection method; it is better to spend time and effort right away than to redo everything later and pay for the damage to your neighbors.

The “overboard” method of draining water is only suitable if you install a washing machine in a country house or in a private house where there is no sewerage system. In this case, you throw the hose into a special tank, from which you pour water after each wash cycle.

What do you need for work?

When preparing to carry out work, check the length of the standard hoses and whether they are sufficient for the method of drainage you have chosen. In addition, they may be required. Their size and design will depend on the material from which the pipes and drains in your apartment are made. So, in addition to the drain hose included in the kit, you may need:

sealing rubber;
clamp;
fitting;
check valve;
siphon;
tee;
a set of keys;
grinder for cutting pipes when connecting directly to the sewer.

Connect via siphon

When installing a washing machine in the kitchen, the preferred way to organize the drain is to connect the drain hose to the sink siphon. To do this, you need to provide a place for the machine not far from the sink. If the already installed siphon does not have an additional outlet for the washing machine, then you can completely replace the siphon with a new one or add a splitter. It’s even better if you purchase a special siphon with a branch and a check valve.

The check valve will prevent waste water from flowing back into the machine, as well as the appearance of unpleasant odors.

The siphon is installed as high as possible to the sink, at a height of at least 40 cm from the floor level. And the drain hose itself, coming from the machine, is fixed at a height of 70 cm from the floor on the machine body with a special holder. In this way, the hose first rises and then falls back into the drain.

The water drain hose is connected to the siphon through a special pipe, which is placed on the siphon branch and secured with a clamp. A similar connection is shown in the photo below.

Connection without siphon

Connecting to a sewer without a siphon, directly into the sewer, will require special plumbing skills. Therefore, if you doubt your abilities, then you should contact a master. Moreover, the machine will not be repaired under warranty if the connection rules are violated. Repairs will be entirely at your expense.

What is needed to connect the drain directly? It is necessary to make an insert in the sewer pipe for a branch under the drain hose. It’s good if the sewer pipe is plastic, but with cast iron pipes may have problems. Once the branch is installed, you need to insert the drain hose into this branch through the O-ring. The most important thing is to maintain the connection height. The hose is inserted into the sewer at a height of at least 60 cm, and it should not touch the water. This will ensure that odors are retained.

Important! The height of the hose connection affects the load of the drain pump. Therefore, observe the recommended value.

Draining the washing machine into the sewer is good if the sink with a siphon is located at a distance of more than two meters from the washing machine. A long hose is not an option in such a situation, since it puts an additional load on the pump.

Thus, if you follow the instructions and recommendations specified in the passport for your washing machine, you can connect the machine to the drain yourself. After connecting, be sure to check the operation of the washing machine in idle mode and ensure that all connections are tight.